Detailed explanation of pot chrysanthemum cultivation techniques, easily master the care methods

Single-head pot chrysanthemum

1. Variety selection For pot chrysanthemums, choose large-flowered excellent varieties from single-stem chrysanthemums that have an early flowering period, thick and sturdy stems, dense stem nodes, thick and plump leaves, a large root system, and sensitivity to dwarfing agents such as B. Varieties suitable for pot chrysanthemums include: "White Hydrangea", "Golden Lion Head", "Grass Frost", "West Chamber Waiting for the Moon", "Pink Lion Head", "Sunrise Peach", "Huang Shigong", "Tiger Roar", "Huaguang Cloud", "Queen", "Cloud of the Plateau", etc.

2. Cutting propagation Generally suitable for cutting from late July to early August. Select healthy, plump, pest-free top shoots from the mother plant as cuttings, about 4 cm to 5 cm long. Keep 2 leaves on the upper part of the cutting, remove the lower leaves, cut the base flat with a blade, and insert it into the seedbed promptly. Water once after insertion, and build a ring-shaped arched shed above. The shed is about 2 m high, covered with two layers of reed curtains for shade, with a layer of plastic film sandwiched between the curtains to prevent rain and retain moisture. At first, water once every morning and spray once at noon. After two weeks, remove one layer of reed curtain and appropriately reduce the frequency of watering and spraying. Generally, rooting occurs in about 15 days, and potting is done in about 25 days.

3. Potting and soil cultivation The potting medium for pot chrysanthemums is generally 5 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 2 parts garbage soil, 1 part plant ash, or 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts barnyard manure soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part furnace ash, plus a small amount of lime and bone meal mixed in. Bone meal should not be too much, because excessive phosphorus causes stem and leaf aging. When potting, fill only 60% to 70% with soil to prevent the chrysanthemum plant from elongating. In early September, add 10%, and in late September add another 10% of soil. The two additions cover about 2 cm of culture soil, burying the old leaves at the base's second and third nodes, so that the stem nodes at the fork produce large leaves that cover the pot surface, forming a pagoda shape with a wide bottom and narrow top in the crown.

4. Water and fertilizer management After cutting, pot them by the end of End of Heat, lasting about 25 days. This is the root-nourishing stage of pot chrysanthemums. In the first 20 days or so of this stage, only water without fertilizer; in the last 5 days, control water and irrigate the roots 1 to 2 times with fully decomposed dilute human manure at a concentration of 5% to promote root growth. From potting to obvious flower bud formation, about 20 days, is the leaf-nourishing stage. During this period, the temperature is high. Water once from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. on sunny days. After sunset, the water in the pot evaporates, which can effectively control the height of the chrysanthemum plant. Dusk and early morning are the two peak periods for chrysanthemum seedling elongation and growth. Therefore, watering must be strictly prohibited. For individual chrysanthemum plants lacking water, a small amount of spray irrigation may be given, called "finding water". Fertilization is mainly nitrogen fertilizer. Apply fully decomposed dilute soybean cake water once every two or three days at a concentration of 5%. In the fertilizer solution, 0.1% urea may be added to irrigate the roots. This promotes strong, plump, and glossy leaves. From flower bud formation to color showing, about 25 days, is the flower-nourishing stage. During this period, it is just when autumn is clear and crisp, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is dry. Pot chrysanthemums have small pots, and at this time the chrysanthemum plants have already taken shape, so watering must be sufficient. Generally, water once from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. every day, and spray clear water on the leaves once from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. Note that it must not be poured directly. Before watering, store the water in a vat for two or three hours before use. On sunny and windy days, also find water in the evening. Water shortage during this period can easily cause leaf wilting, and long-term wilting is harmful to root and flower bud development. During the bud stage, fertilizer should be mainly phosphorus fertilizer. Every morning, irrigate the roots with dilute soybean cake water plus 0.1% monopotassium phosphate. Every 3 days, artificially spray with a 3000-fold solution of urea and monopotassium phosphate.