Detailed Explanation of Tower Chrysanthemum Cultivation Techniques, Easily Master the Planting Method
I. Selection and Cultivation of Rootstock. For grafting tower chrysanthemums, Artemisia annua of the genus Artemisia in the Asteraceae family is generally used as the rootstock. Sow seeds and raise seedlings at the end of September. In early November, select healthy Artemisia seedlings whose stems have just begun to elongate, plant them first in small pots, and place them in a greenhouse to overwinter, with the temperature generally kept at 10-15°C. After transplanting and surviving, apply a light fertilizer to promote growth. Water once a week, maintaining humidity at 50-60%. In early to mid-February of the following year, lateral branches can sprout from every node starting from the base. After the frost period ends, once the plant height reaches about 40-60 cm, it can be moved out of the greenhouse. Before moving out, choose a high, dry planting site facing south, dig large holes, apply sufficient decomposed base fertilizer at the bottom of the holes, place cultivation soil in the upper part of the holes, and plant one plant per hole when planting.
II. Grafting Techniques
1. Selection of Scion Varieties: Choose varieties with consistent flowering periods, larger flowers, and long flowering periods, and arrange them in order by flower color. Generally, it is required to have one color all the way to the top, or use two or three different flower colors of similar primary colors, from bottom to top, either from light to dark or from dark to light. Taking red as an example, they can be arranged as light red, pink, water red, bright red, purple red, and deep purple, looking both harmonious and striking.
2. Grafting Time and Method: When grafting in a greenhouse, it is generally done from January to March of the following year. If done in the open field, it can be extended to April to May, but no later than "Grain in Ear." When grafting, start from the first layer of branches 20-23 cm above the ground, and graft one layer every 7-10 days. When the lateral branches grow to about 10 cm, the first round of grafting can be carried out. It is not advisable to graft too many in each round; generally 3-6 branches are required. To reflect the pagoda-style arrangement, from bottom to top, graft 6 branches in the first round, 5 in the second round, and 3-4 branches per layer starting from the third round. Each layer should be spaced 20 cm apart, and excess lateral branches should be removed as early as possible. When grafting, the part of the Artemisia annua to be cut should not be too old or too tender. If the pith is found to be white, it indicates that it has aged and can be discarded. However, if it is too tender and has not formed a pith, it is also unsuitable for grafting. Therefore, it is best to choose a young, tender part with normal stem thickness and large leaves, cut it flat, then cut off the top of the selected 3-5 cm long chrysanthemum young shoot scion, and graft it using the "cleft grafting method." Then use soft binding materials such as cotton thread to tie the graft union, or select willow, elm, or hibiscus branches slightly larger than the rootstock stem, cut them into small sections every 10 cm around, twist to remove the central xylem, and make 2 cm long "bark rings." When grafting, first put the bark ring onto the rootstock, and after the scion is inserted, pull the bark ring upward to cover the cut and tighten it securely.