How to cultivate a tower chrysanthemum? These technical points must be mastered
I. Selection and cultivation of the rootstock
For grafting tower chrysanthemums, Artemisia (mugwort) of the Asteraceae family, genus Artemisia, is generally used as the rootstock. Sow seeds for seedlings at the end of September; in early November, select mugwort seedlings whose stems have just begun to elongate and which are growing vigorously, plant them first in small pots, and place them in a greenhouse to overwinter, with the temperature generally kept at 10-15°C. After transplanting and establishment, apply a light fertilizer to promote growth. Water once a week, maintaining humidity at 50-60%. In early to mid-February of the following year, lateral branches can sprout from every node starting at its base. After the frost has passed, once the plant height is about 40-60 cm, it can be moved outdoors. Before moving outdoors, choose a high, dry, south-facing planting site, dig large holes, apply plenty of rotted base fertilizer at the bottom of the holes, place cultivation soil in the upper part of the holes, and plant one plant per hole when planting.
II. Grafting techniques
1. Selection of scion varieties: Choose varieties with a consistent flowering period, larger flowers, and a long flowering period, and arrange them in order by flower color. Generally, it is required to have one color all the way to the top, or to use two or three different flower colors of similar primary colors, from bottom to top, from light to dark or from dark to light. Taking red as an example, they can be arranged as light red, pink, water red, bright red, purple red, and deep purple, which looks both harmonious and eye-catching.
2. Grafting time and method: For grafting in a greenhouse, generally in January-March of the following year; if done in the open field, it can be delayed to April-May, but no later than "Grain in Ear" (Mangzhong). When grafting, start from the layer of branches 20-23 cm above the ground, and graft one layer every 7-10 days. When the lateral branches grow to about 10 cm, the first round of grafting can be carried out. It is not advisable to graft too many per round; generally 3-6 branches are required. To achieve a pagoda-style arrangement, from bottom to top, graft 6 branches in the first round, 5 branches in the second round, and from the third round onward graft 3-4 branches per layer. A spacing of 20 cm is required between each layer, and excess lateral branches should be removed early. When grafting, the part of the mugwort to be cut short should not be too old or too tender. If the pith is found to be whitening, it indicates that it has aged and can be discarded. However, if it is too tender and the pith has not yet formed, it is also unsuitable for grafting, so it is best to choose a young, tender part with a stem of normal thickness and large leaves, cut it flat, then cut off the top of the selected 3-5 cm-long tender chrysanthemum shoot scion, graft using the "cleft grafting method," and then bind the graft union with soft tying material such as cotton thread, or select a willow branch, elm branch, or hibiscus branch slightly larger than the rootstock stem, cut it into small sections every 10 cm around, twist and remove the central xylem, and make a 2 cm-long "bark ring." When grafting, it is advisable to first slip the bark ring onto the rootstock, and after the scion is inserted, pull the bark ring upward to cover the cut and bind it tight.
III. Post-grafting management of tower chrysanthemums:
The grafted chrysanthemums should be placed in a shaded place and sprayed with water after 3-4 hours. If grafted in the afternoon, spray water the next morning, then twice a day thereafter, and stop after one week. Watering should be done at the root of the rootstock, and never at the cut, to avoid rot. After 2-3 weeks, remove the binding material and move them to the open air for cultivation.
In early May, carry out pinching once, then once every 20-25 days thereafter, keeping four leaves with each pinching, for a total of 4-5 pinchings, until the Beginning of Autumn.
From July to September, apply liquid fertilizer once every four or five days, until the bud stage.
In early September, the tower chrysanthemum can be potted, and potting must be done on a sunny day. First dig up the complete root system; it must not be cut arbitrarily. Choose a flower pot with an 80 cm diameter; it should not be too small. After potting, water after a few days, and after a week apply the key points of tower chrysanthemum cultivation techniques
2007-02-16 Source: Flower China
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I. Selection and cultivation of the rootstock
For grafting tower chrysanthemums, Artemisia (mugwort) of the Asteraceae family, genus Artemisia, is generally used as the rootstock. Sow seeds for seedlings at the end of September; in early November, select mugwort seedlings whose stems have just begun to elongate and which are growing vigorously, plant them first in small pots, and place them in a greenhouse to overwinter, with the temperature generally kept at 10-15°C. After transplanting and establishment, apply a light fertilizer to promote growth. Water once a week, maintaining humidity at 50-60%. In early to mid-February of the following year, lateral branches can sprout from every node starting at its base. After the frost has passed, once the plant height is about 40-60 cm, it can be moved outdoors. Before moving outdoors, choose a high, dry, south-facing planting site, dig large holes, apply plenty of rotted base fertilizer at the bottom of the holes, place cultivation soil in the upper part of the holes, and plant one plant per hole when planting.
II. Grafting techniques
1. Selection of scion varieties: Choose varieties with a consistent flowering period, larger flowers, and a long flowering period, and arrange them in order by flower color. Generally, it is required to have one color all the way to the top, or to use two or three different flower colors of similar primary colors, from bottom to top, from light to dark or from dark to light. Taking red as an example, they can be arranged as light red, pink, water red, bright red, purple red, and deep purple, which looks both harmonious and eye-catching.
2. Grafting time and method: For grafting in a greenhouse, generally in January-March of the following year; if done in the open field, it can be delayed to April-May, but no later than "Grain in Ear" (Mangzhong). When grafting, start from the layer of branches 20-23 cm above the ground, and graft one layer every 7-10 days. When the lateral branches grow to about 10 cm, the first round of grafting can be carried out. It is not advisable to graft too many per round; generally 3-6 branches are required. To achieve a pagoda-style arrangement, from bottom to top, graft 6 branches in the first round, 5 branches in the second round, and from the third round onward graft 3-4 branches per layer. A spacing of 20 cm is required between each layer, and excess lateral branches should be removed early. When grafting, the part of the mugwort to be cut short should not be too old or too tender. If the pith is found to be whitening, it indicates that it has aged and can be discarded. However, if it is too tender and the pith has not yet formed, it is also unsuitable for grafting, so it is best to choose a young, tender part with a stem of normal thickness and large leaves, cut it flat, then cut off the top of the selected 3-5 cm-long tender chrysanthemum shoot scion, graft using the "cleft grafting method," and then bind the graft union with soft tying material such as cotton thread, or select a willow branch, elm branch, or hibiscus branch slightly larger than the rootstock stem, cut it into small sections every 10 cm around, twist and remove the central xylem, and make a 2 cm-long "bark ring." When grafting, it is advisable to first slip the bark ring onto the rootstock, and after the scion is inserted, pull the bark ring upward to cover the cut and bind it tight.
III. Post-grafting management of tower chrysanthemums:
The grafted chrysanthemums should be placed in a shaded place and sprayed with water after 3-4 hours. If grafted in the afternoon, spray water the next morning, then twice a day thereafter, and stop after one week. Watering should be done at the root of the rootstock, and never at the cut, to avoid rot. After 2-3 weeks, remove the binding material and move them to the open air for cultivation.
In early May, carry out pinching once, then once every 20-25 days thereafter, keeping four leaves with each pinching, for a total of 4-5 pinchings, until the Beginning of Autumn.
From July to September, apply liquid fertilizer once every four or five days, until the bud stage.
In early September, the tower chrysanthemum can be potted, and potting must be done on a sunny day. First dig up the complete root system; it must not be cut arbitrarily. Choose a flower pot with an 80 cm diameter; it should not be too small. After potting, water after a few days, and after a week apply a light fertilizer.
After the chrysanthemum buds, it is necessary to set up poles and build a frame. Use bamboo to make a support, with the central pillar pressed close to the mugwort stem, then tie a circular disk at each layer; the size of the disk depends on the chrysanthemum branches, generally from bottom to top, from large to small, and the topmost ring is often no less than 10 cm. If the bamboo frame is painted green, the ornamental effect is even better.
with a light fertilizer.
After the chrysanthemum buds, it is necessary to set up poles and build a frame. Use bamboo to make a support, with the central pillar pressed close to the mugwort stem, then tie a circular disk at each layer; the size of the disk depends on the chrysanthemum branches, generally from bottom to top, from large to small, and the topmost ring is often no less than 10 cm. If the bamboo frame is painted green, the ornamental effect is even better.