Key Techniques for Rapid Autumn Propagation of Japanese Spindle (Euonymus japonicus)

Japanese spindle (Euonymus japonicus) is an evergreen shrub of the Celastraceae family, with dark green, glossy leaves. It is often used as a hedge in landscaping, and the demand for it in greening projects increases year by year. Because most of North China experiences drought and high temperatures in spring and summer and severe cold in winter, conditions are unfavorable for propagating and raising Japanese spindle. Over many years, the author has repeatedly experimented with rapid autumn propagation techniques, achieving autumn propagation, spring transplanting the following year, and producing marketable saplings in a single year, creating relatively good economic returns. The experience is described below:

1. Cutting time: It is best done from late August to early October, preferably in mid-to-late September. At this time, new shoots have stopped growing, the branches contain more nutrients, the tissue's meristematic capacity is relatively strong, and the soil temperature and air humidity are suitable. After cutting, management is simple and rooting is easy.

2. Cutting bed preparation: It is best to use fallow land that has been deep-plowed over the summer as the seedbed. It should be made into a flat bed 120 cm wide, with a 30 cm walkway, and 6 to 7 m long. Build a semicircular shade shed 1.8 m above the bed surface with a light transmittance of 50%-70%.

3. Collection and pruning of cuttings: Collect one-year-old branches from vigorously growing plants free of pests and diseases, wrap them in wet burlap, and transport them back for processing. Cut the collected spindle branches into 10 to 15 cm long cuttings, keeping 2 leaves at the upper part and removing the rest. Cut the top end flat and the base end at a slant.

4. Cutting: Before cutting, water the seedbed thoroughly. While the seedbed is moist, insert the lower 2/3 of the cuttings into the seedbed at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm between plants and rows. After cutting, water thoroughly again and cover with a shade net.

5. Post-cutting management

1. Watering: Water once every 3 to 5 days, always keeping the seedbed moist. In early October, most seedlings begin to root, and the frequency of watering is gradually reduced.

2. Film covering: In late October, remove the original shade net, water thoroughly once for overwintering, and replace it with overwintering film. Before heavy snow freezes the ground, pack soil firmly around the edges of the plastic film to keep it warm. Because the underground temperature of the seedbed is relatively higher and the surface temperature is relatively lower, the cuttings sprout few or no branches in winter, promoting root development of the seedlings. At the same time, do a good job of weeding and watering inside the shed so the seedlings overwinter safely.

3. Early spring management: In early March, when temperatures rise, water promptly to revive growth. Along with watering, apply 5 to 10 kg of urea per mu. In mid-March, remove the plastic film, clear weeds, and strengthen comprehensive management.

6. Seedling transplanting

1. Transplanting time: Generally in late March and early April, when the survival rate is relatively high.

2. Transplanting beds: In a nursery field that has been deep-plowed and leveled, make transplanting beds about 1.5 m wide (including the bed ridge) and about 10 m long. Along the long side, open furrows 10 cm deep every 30 cm, and place the seedlings at a plant spacing of 15 to 20 cm. Cover with soil while watering to settle the roots. After transplanting, water thoroughly and keep moist.

3. Careful management: The transplanted saplings are relatively small, so they must be carefully managed, with timely watering, loosening of the soil, and weeding to promote rapid growth of the saplings. When the saplings reach 20 cm in height, pinch off the growing tips to encourage more branching.