How to Grow Orchids? Sharing Two Practical Care Tips

I. Notes on Overwintering Management of Orchids

Orchids generally need to be moved indoors or into a greenhouse for cultivation by mid-November; if moved too late, they are prone to frost damage or even freezing injury. In daily management, besides strengthening general overwintering measures, attention should also be paid to treating different varieties according to their specific characteristics.

1. The ancients had the experience of "exposing orchids in cold weather"; orchids are best placed on a south-facing sunny windowsill or table. The suitable growing temperature for orchids is 15-25°C, and overwintering in a low-temperature room at around 10°C is generally ideal. If the indoor temperature drops below 5°C, felt blankets or cotton blankets should be used at night to cover glass windows and gaps to prevent freezing. However, the overwintering temperature should not be too high either, otherwise the orchids will grow weakly after the arrival of spring. The day-night temperature difference should also be maintained at 4-5°C, otherwise they will not grow luxuriantly the following year.

2. "No moisture in winter": note that in winter and spring, plant growth is slow, so excessive watering is not advisable. For overwintering orchids, it is best to keep the medium slightly moist but leaning dry. The flower buds of Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid) must gradually form in winter, so a somewhat moist medium is preferable; whereas Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid) and Cymbidium faberi (Hui orchid) can be kept slightly drier, as long as the potting soil does not crack. When watering, pour from the edge of the pot, and never pour into the heart of the orchid, to avoid heart rot and death.

3. In winter, the orchids should be exposed to relatively bright scattered light regularly. If the light is too dim during the overwintering period, it will affect flower bud formation, resulting in fewer buds, or even only leaf growth without flowering.

4. Ventilation: when the outdoor temperature is above 10°C, it is often found that the outer wall of the flower pot is damp and the orchid leaves appear slightly wilted. This is caused by the indoor environment being too stuffy and poorly ventilated. Doors and windows should be opened during the day for ventilation to prevent pests and diseases. However, special care should be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the orchid leaves, and not to let the orchids come into contact with coal smoke. If dust or grime is found on the leaf surface, wash it off immediately to keep the leaves bright and clean.

II. Foliar Top-Dressing Works Well for Orchids

If orchids rely solely on root absorption, there will be many shortcomings due to various environmental conditions and absorption functions. Foliar top-dressing can compensate for these.

Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium can be used separately or mixed. According to the specific growth conditions of the orchid plant: 0.2% monoammonium phosphate serves as both nitrogen and potassium fertilizer; 0.2% monopotassium phosphate provides phosphorus, and its potassium can increase the intensity of photosynthesis, enabling the pseudobulbs to store more nutrients and enhancing the orchid's disease resistance and cold resistance. If complete nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium nutrition is needed, monopotassium phosphate can supply phosphorus and potassium, while ammonium sulfate can supply nitrogen. Adding boric acid compensates for the deficiency of the trace element boron in the soil; boron has a clear effect on flower bud differentiation and flowering. A tested and effective formula ratio is: 3 liters of water plus 1 g of monopotassium phosphate and 0.2 g of boric acid. However, when preparing the solution and applying it, trace amounts of low-toxicity pesticides such as trichlorfon and thiophanate-methyl can also be added to prevent pests and diseases.

Generally in the evening or early morning, taking advantage of the dew on the leaf surface, spray onto the stems and leaves so that it is easily absorbed along with the dew. When spraying, both the front and back sides of the leaves should be sprayed, and spraying toward the underside of the leaves should be maximized.