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What are the leaf propagation methods for Japanese euonymus (Euonymus japonicus)?

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Propagating Japanese euonymus (Euonymus japonicus) from leaves can solve the problem of insufficient propagation material. The specific method is as follows: 1. Cutting time and leaf selection. The best time for cutting is in mid-to-late April, when the temperature is stable at around 20°C. In a greenhouse it can be done year-round. Choose old leaves that are more than one year old; leaves removed when taking cuttings can also be used. The leaves should be picked off by hand, taking care to include a heel; do not cut the leaves off with scissors. 2. Medium and cutting bed. The medium is best made of coarse river sand; a half-and-half mix of peat soil and perlite is also acceptable, as long as the principle is water retention and aeration without waterlogging

Propagating Japanese euonymus (Euonymus japonicus) from leaves can solve the problem of insufficient propagation material. The specific method is as follows:

1. Cutting time and leaf selection. The best time for cutting is in mid-to-late April, when the temperature is stable at around 20°C. In a greenhouse it can be done year-round. Choose old leaves that are more than one year old; leaves removed when taking cuttings can also be used. The leaves should be picked off by hand, taking care to include a heel; do not cut the leaves off with scissors.

2. Medium and cutting bed. The medium is best made of coarse river sand; a half-and-half mix of peat soil and perlite is also acceptable, as long as the principle is water retention and aeration without waterlogging. The medium must be sterilized; for a small amount, pour boiling water over it and use it after it cools; for a large amount, methods such as sun exposure or chemical sterilization can be used. For a small amount, a larger flowerpot, wooden box or similar container can be used as the cutting bed; for a large amount, a raised pool can be built. The medium layer should be about 10 cm thick, but the lower layer should be padded with a drainage layer about 5 cm thick, preferably using furnace slag.

3. Cutting. First soak the leaf stalks to be cut in rooting agent (follow the instructions). Then use a wooden board 10 cm long, 2 to 3 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick, insert it 2 to 3 cm into the medium, and make a flat hole. Insert the leaves treated with rooting agent into the hole; in addition to inserting the leaf stalk, also insert 1/3 of the leaf blade. The inserted leaves should face one direction to make management easier. After inserting, press the cutting bed firm and do not water for now, because the medium should be watered thoroughly before cutting. Wait 8 to 12 hours before watering again; do not water too much, just enough to make the medium fit tightly against the leaves with no gaps.

4. Care after cutting. After cutting, cover the flowerpot with a plastic bag and make an air hole in it. For a large amount, cover the cutting bed with a small arched shed to ensure suitable temperature and humidity. Spray water on the leaves 4 to 5 times a day to maintain a relative humidity of about 80%. Because the leaf stalks are short and thin, the cutting bed absolutely must not lose water and dry out. Generally, roots can form in about 30 to 50 days. After rooting, remove the plastic cover and arched shed and let them gradually receive sunlight. After rooting, a long period is needed before branches grow; under good conditions buds may be seen in late autumn, but most must wait until the next summer or autumn before buds form and branches grow.

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