Courtyard Cultivation Methods and Technical Key Points for Chinese Orchids
Many orchid growers use courtyards as orchid sites for orchid cultivation. The advantage is that it is close to the ecological environment of the orchid's native habitat, which is beneficial to the growth and development of the orchid plants. The disadvantage is that light, temperature, moisture, and wind force are not easy to control, and the plants are prone to natural disasters, pests, and diseases, which to a certain extent restricts the growth of the orchid plants. Therefore, the following key problems must be solved with emphasis:
Light. Orchids are semi-shade plants. They cannot do without sunlight, but strong sunlight is also harmful. In winter and spring they need full light, while in summer and autumn strong direct light must be blocked. If the courtyard faces south, move the orchid plants to the front of the house in winter and spring, and to the foot of the south wall in summer and autumn. If it faces north, move them to the foot of the north wall in winter and spring, and to the front of the door in summer and autumn. In summer and autumn, shade nets must be used for shading, and the shading degree should be no less than 70%. If conditions permit, climbing plants such as grapes, loofah, and chayote can also be planted in the courtyard in summer, which can both shade and cool the orchids and provide fresh melons and fruits for eating.
Temperature. The suitable growth temperature for orchids is 15-25°C. In winter and spring, because cold waves, wind and snow, and frost are likely to occur, the temperature can drop to many degrees below zero; in summer and autumn, due to strong light and radiation from walls and the ground, the high temperature can reach about 35°C, posing a great threat to the orchid plants. In summer, in addition to shading, mist the orchid plants frequently and sprinkle water on the ground; set up a water pool, water vat, or water bucket near the orchid plants. If a water trough or tray is placed under the orchid pots, the cooling effect is even better. In winter, because there is no cover above the courtyard, the temperature is extremely low. If conditions permit, it is best to move the orchids indoors to overwinter; if conditions do not permit, they can be moved to a sheltered, sunny corner in the courtyard and a temporary plastic film greenhouse can be built. If the number is small, double-layer film covering can also be used.
Wind force. Because there are walls around the courtyard, or it is even surrounded by tall buildings, the ventilation conditions are very poor, and it is not easy to dissipate heat in summer; if there are consecutive rainy days, the ground and potting medium are moist and not easy to dry. For this, on the one hand, prop up the orchid pots with bricks, increase the distance between pots, and increase ventilation; on the other hand, when the air is stuffy in midsummer, use an electric fan for ventilation to help dissipate heat. The fan power depends on the number of orchid pots. If the orchid pots are placed on orchid shelves, the ventilation effect will be even better.
Pests and diseases. Orchids grown in courtyards are more likely to suffer from the harm of pests and diseases. Due to rain and damp ground, they are most prone to anthracnose and root rot. Before the rainy season arrives, choose sterilizing agents such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and zineb, and spray the orchid plants, orchid pots, and the entire orchid site for prevention; in the early stage of disease onset, these drugs can also be sprayed to control the disease progression. The main pest is scale insects. Adults can be killed manually, and during the larval hatching period, omethoate or fenitrothion can be sprayed to kill them. In addition, @#@254@#@, snails, slugs, thrips, and rats on the ground are all animals harmful to orchids and must be effectively controlled.