How to Propagate Osmanthus Trees by Cuttings? Detailed Method and Steps
The nursery plot should preferably be sandy loam or light loam with good drainage. If the soil is too clayey, some sand should be mixed in appropriately to adjust the soil texture. To prevent damping-off and root rot, pesticides should also be sprayed when preparing the beds to disinfect the soil. The cutting bed should be slightly raised, and drainage must be unobstructed. Practice has shown that water accumulating after rain most easily causes...
The right time should be chosen for cuttings. Osmanthus spring shoots stop developing at the end of April, and by the end of June they have become semi-mature, sturdy branches. These sturdy branches have the strongest vitality and are relatively easy to root when used for cuttings. The optimum temperature for osmanthus growth is 25°C-28°C; above 30°C, growth slows down. Therefore, in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River region, it is better to take cuttings around the latter half of June. Autumn propagation is also possible, but the survival rate is lower, and special attention must be paid to cold protection for the growth of new seedlings.Cuttings are best taken in the open field. Choose sandy loam for the seedbed; clayey soil should not be used. Winter plowing should be done in advance, and the soil should be finely prepared in spring. Make beds 20 cm high, shaped like a turtle's back, and cover them with grass for protection to prevent rain from compacting the surface. It is best to place a large water vat in the bed, and store water the day before watering to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature. The "heel cutting" method is generally used. In heel cutting, the cutting is a new shoot cut with a little of the old branch bark and flesh at the lower end, shaped like a heel. The tissue at the heel is dense and rich in nutrients, making it easy for new roots to form. The cutting is about 10 cm long, with a pair of upper leaves kept at the top and all lower leaves removed. The pair of leaves kept must not be damaged, nor should they be trimmed smaller. Insert the cutting 6-8 cm into the soil, and press the surrounding soil firm with your fingers. Spacing is 12 x 3 cm.
After inserting the cuttings, they must be carefully managed. Water thoroughly. Before watering, it is best to spread a layer of chopped grass on the soil surface to prevent mud from soiling the leaves and to prevent the soil from compacting. Immediately afterward, shade them with reed curtains, otherwise survival will be poor. High-low double-layer shade frames are commonly used, which avoid direct sunlight while still allowing ventilation. Do not water too much, to prevent root rot. In dry, hot weather, spray water on the leaves two or three times a day. Generally, root nodules form 1 month after insertion, and after 2 months, you can begin giving 1 hour of morning sun, then cover with curtains again. After that, gradually lengthen the sunlight exposure time. By October, the low shade frame can be removed, allowing the seedlings to receive half-scattered light all day from the high shade frame. At the end of November, change the high frame into a warm frame to protect against cold, and also cover the seedlings with a thin layer of straw. In winter, when the soil looks white, sprinkle water once, doing so at noon. After the weather warms in the second year, shading is still needed on sunny days, and one part well-rotted liquid fertilizer should be appropriately added to the watering. By the end of the second year, the seedlings can reach 1 chi in height. Transplant in the spring of the third year.