Detailed Explanation of Key Points of Artificial Scorpion Breeding Technology

The scorpion is a carnivorous animal of the class Arachnida. It is both a precious medicinal material and can be made into high-grade dishes. At present, market demand is also growing, so it has high breeding value. However, artificial scorpion breeding is a job that requires care and patience, and the quality of scorpion farm management has a great bearing on the likelihood of success in scorpion breeding. Let us take a look below at artificial scorpion breeding technology!
Construction of a Scorpion Breeding Farm
1. Pond farming: Scorpion ponds can be built indoors or outdoors. The usual pond size is 0.5 m high and 1 m wide, with the length determined according to actual conditions. The outer wall of the pond can be sealed with a small amount of mortar to block cracks between bricks and prevent scorpions from escaping through the gaps. On the inner side of the pond near the top opening, before the applied mortar dries, smooth materials such as glass and ceramic tiles can be embedded to prevent scorpions from escaping from the top opening. In the center of the pond, about 15 cm from the four sides, build a multi-layer stack with bricks, tiles and stones, leaving gaps of about 1.5 cm, for scorpions to inhabit.
2. Box farming: Use wooden boards to make boxes, or directly use waste wooden boxes or plastic boxes. Wrap a ring of plastic film or glass strips around the four sides of the box opening to prevent scorpions from escaping. Spread 2 cm of sandy soil on the bottom of the box, and place some bricks, tiles and coal cinders on the soil for scorpions to move around and inhabit.
Introduction Technology for Scorpions
1. Introduction time: For scorpion breeding at normal temperature, the introduction time should be arranged in late spring and early summer or in autumn, among which late spring and early summer is the best, because at this time the hibernating scorpions have already emerged from dormancy, have passed the "spring death barrier", and adult female scorpions have already entered pregnancy and can give birth to young within the same year. Introduction can bring benefits in the same year.
2. Source of breeding scorpions: One is to catch wild scorpions or buy wild scorpions back as breeding scorpions, and the other is to buy from artificial scorpion breeding units or individuals. For beginners, using wild scorpions as breeding scorpions is not advisable.
3. Selection of breeding scorpions: When introducing breeding scorpions, select and purchase young scorpions, adult scorpions or pregnant scorpions according to need. For male scorpions, choose those with a strong physique, bright body color, liveliness and strength, and strong sexual desire as breeding scorpions. For female scorpions, choose those that are large, with a body length above 4.8 cm, with no mutilation of limbs, robust, agile in movement, with the rear abdomen curled when at rest, the front abdomen plump, and the skin glossy, as breeding scorpions.
4. Male-female pairing: When introducing breeding stock, some breeders select only female scorpions and no male scorpions in order to obtain more young scorpions. This practice is wrong. According to the mating pattern of scorpions, the ratio of female to male scorpions is preferably 2-3:1.
5. Transportation of breeding scorpions: Generally, the introduction tools are cardboard boxes and non-toxic woven bags, and the suitable density for loading and transport is 500 scorpions per bag. During transportation, first put the breeding scorpions into clean, undamaged woven bags and tie the openings, then place them into cardboard boxes with sponge, cardboard or paper balls at the bottom. Then put several wet sponge pieces into the cardboard box to regulate the humidity inside the box. In addition, several ventilation holes should be made around the upper part of the cardboard box for ventilation. Severe vibration should be avoided during transportation. In summer, pay attention to preventing high temperatures during transportation, and in winter, pay attention to preventing cold.
Scorpion Breeding Technology
1. Light control: The scorpion shed should be built in a place with a high foundation and sufficient sunlight. In places with sunlight, scorpions rarely suffer from diseases, and mites cannot survive.
2. Humidity control: In seasons with long rain or long drought and dry air, water can be added to the reservoir above the scorpion stack to keep the nest soil moist. In rainy weather, cover the scorpion shed with plastic sheeting to prevent accumulated water in the shed from damaging the scorpion stack. Scorpions replenish water by absorbing moisture and are not suitable for drinking water directly. The activity area should be slightly on the moist side, and the relative air humidity should be about 80%. The humidity of the resting burrows should not be too high. During hibernation, frost damage should be avoided, and the humidity should be about 10-12%.
3. Temperature control: The suitable temperature for the growth and development of scorpions is between 20-39°C. When the temperature is 20-39°C, their appetite is strongest, they grow quickly, molt smoothly, and this is also the most suitable temperature for mating and reproduction. For natural scorpion breeding, plastic sheeting must be used in late spring and late autumn to raise the temperature and shorten the hibernation period. When the temperature is below 10°C, scorpions stop growing and enter hibernation. If the temperature is between 8-15°C, scorpions appear half-asleep and half-awake and move from time to time. After emerging from dormancy in spring, most scorpions have dry bodies and trailing tails, move slowly, lack appetite, and have a high mortality rate. 3-6°C is the best temperature for hibernation.
4. Feed feeding: Scorpions like to eat insects that are high in protein, low in fat, soft-bodied, juicy and active. They do not like to eat insects that are putrid, have special odors, are dead, or are sluggish. Yellow mealworms are the best feed for scorpions, as they reproduce quickly, have a short growth cycle, do not require high equipment conditions for rearing, are simple to rear, and are nutritionally rich. Ground beetles, woodlice and the like can only be used as supplementary feed.
Prevention and Control of Scorpion Diseases and Insect Pests
1. Spot mold disease
[Symptoms] Spot mold disease, also called scorpion louse disease, mostly occurs from June to August. It is often caused by a humid environment, high air humidity, and moldy food, among other factors, and the pathogenic fungus is mostly green mold fungus. In infected scorpions, yellow-brown or red-brown small spot-like mold patches often appear on the chest plate and front abdomen in the early stage and gradually expand into sheets. Then the scorpions' appetite decreases and growth stops. In the later stage, they move sluggishly and eventually die from refusing food. Dissection shows that the body is filled with fungal masses formed by green mold-like mycelium.
[Prevention and control] Give priority to prevention, appropriately regulate air humidity, and eradicate the pathogen. 1. Wash the food trays and water trays frequently to eliminate moldy food. 2. Disinfect the breeding area with a 1-2% formalin solution or a 0.1% potassium permanganate aqueous solution. 3. Sick scorpions should be isolated for treatment, and dead scorpions should be picked out and burned promptly. 4. For sick scorpions, mix 18 oxytetracycline or 1 g chloramphenicol or 1-1.5 g long-acting sulfonamide with 1000 g compound feed and feed until recovery.
2. Black rot disease
[Symptoms] Black rot disease, also called body rot disease, can generally occur throughout the year, with a short course and high mortality. It is mainly caused by feeding on rotten feed, dirty drinking water, or accidentally eating the carcasses of scorpions with black rot disease and becoming infected with black mold fungus. In the early stage, sick scorpions have swollen abdomens that appear black, move very little, and have reduced appetite. Then black rot-type ulcerative lesions appear on the front abdomen, and black mucus can flow out when pressed by hand, ultimately leading to death.
[Prevention and control] 1. Keep feed and drinking water fresh. 2. Regularly disinfect the breeding area with a 1-2% formalin aqueous solution. 3. Sick scorpions should be isolated for treatment, and dead scorpions should be picked out and burned. 4. For sick scorpions, mix 1 g yeast tablets, 0.5 g erythromycin, or 2.5 g baking soda and 0.5 g sulfonamide tablets, or 2.5 g rhubarb soda and 0.5 g oxytetracycline with 500 g compound feed, and feed until recovery. 5. Chinese herbal medicine gallnut can be used, with a daily dosage of 0.2-0.5 g per kg of body weight, to treat sick scorpions.
3. Hemiplegia
[Symptoms] Hemiplegia, also called trailing tail disease, often occurs in late summer and early autumn during humid periods. It is caused by long-term feeding of high-fat feed, resulting in massive accumulation of fat in the scorpion body. Sick scorpions have glossy bodies, enlarged limb segments, move with difficulty and slowly, and have red, secretion-like fatty mucus in the mouthparts. Death begins 5-10 days after onset.
[Prevention and control] 1. Do not feed or feed less high-fat feed. 2. Appropriately regulate environmental temperature and humidity. 3. For treatment, fasting for 3-5 days can be adopted, or mix 3 g rhubarb soda tablets, 50 g bran (stir-fried until fragrant), and 60 g water, and feed until recovery.
4. Abdominal bloating disease
[Symptoms] Abdominal bloating disease often occurs in early spring and in continuous rainy periods in autumn. It is caused by indigestion due to low temperature and the scorpion body being chilled. Sick scorpions have large bellies with visible blue veins, slow responses, and poor appetite. Death begins 10-15 days after onset.
[Prevention and control] 1. Keep the breeding temperature at 25-39°C. 2. For sick scorpions, mix 18 g each of multienzyme tablets and yeast tablets, 0.1 g sulfonamide tablets, and 100 g compound feed, and feed until recovery.
5. Ant damage
[Symptoms] Ants not only compete with scorpions for feed, but also bore into and eat young, weak, sick and disabled scorpions.
[Prevention and control] 1. Crush eggshells, fry them until scorched, and scatter them around the outside of the partition wall of the breeding area. 2. After luring them out with bones, sugar and the like, kill them with boiling water.
Note: Practice has proved that the scorpion breeding cycle requires two years, with benefits seen year by year. To save daily expenses, beginners can simply feed scorpions in their spare time. Some advertisements claim that scorpions can reproduce 3-5 litters each year, with more than 50 per litter, guaranteed success and guaranteed buyback, and that after half a year the scorpions can grow to be sold, making big money with especially fast returns. These are all exaggerated advertisements. No matter which breeding method is used for scorpions, it must be carried out according to the survival characteristics and living patterns of scorpions. Only by studying breeding technology diligently, continuously innovating, striving for perfection, and persevering can greater rewards be achieved.