A detailed guide to Kalanchoe propagation methods, easy for beginners to learn too
The main Kalanchoe propagation methods are cutting propagation and tissue culture propagation. These two propagation methods each have their own advantages and characteristics. During Kalanchoe propagation, different methods can be chosen according to actual needs. Below, let us get to know these two Kalanchoe propagation methods.
Kalanchoe tissue culture propagation method
In the United States and France, from the late 1970s, Kalanchoe stem tips, leaves, stems, flower buds, and flowers were used as explants, with MS medium plus 2 mg/L kinetin and 0.1 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid to induce adventitious buds. Then 1/2 MS medium plus 1 mg/L indolebutyric acid was used to induce rooting. At room temperature 25-27°C and 16 hours of light, small plantlets can grow after 4-6 weeks.
Kalanchoe cutting propagation method
It works best when done in May-June or September-October. Choose slightly mature fleshy stems, cut 5-6 cm long, insert them into a sand bed, water them, then cover with plastic film. At room temperature 15-20°C, they root 15-18 days after insertion, and can be potted in 30 days. A 10 cm pot is commonly used. If there are not many seedlings, leaf cuttings can be used. Cut healthy, plump leaves from the petiole, wait until the cut surface is slightly dry, then insert them obliquely or lay them flat on the sand bed, keep moisture, and after about 10-15 days they can root from the leaf base and grow new plants.
When using the cutting propagation method for Kalanchoe, there are some points to note:
1. Use clean yellow sand, sandy loam, or nutrient soil as the medium, preferably disinfected with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
2. Pinch off 6-10 cm long branches and stems, with more than two leaf base segments. When cutting, trim the cuttings as much as possible to a uniform height. The lower end of the cut is generally slanted, preferably about 2 mm away from the lowest bud eye, which helps rooting. The upper cut should be flat and at least 4 mm away from the topmost bud, to avoid the upper cut drying out and changing color after water loss, which would cause cutting failure.
3. Insert directly into the medium; an insertion depth of 1/2 to 2/3 is better. Firm it, and water thoroughly once. After that, just keep the medium moist. Do not water too much or spray too much, because it easily causes fleshy leaves and stems to rot.
4. After cutting, if conditions permit, plastic film can be used to cover for warmth and moisture retention, which can promote rapid rooting of the branches and ensure the survival rate.
5. Freshly cut cuttings should avoid strong light, preferably under scattered light conditions. After cutting, do not fertilize the cuttings for the time being.
6. They can root immediately after insertion, about one week or so. After new axillary buds and leaves grow, they can be transplanted.