How to grow cyclamen? Detailed guide to cultivation methods and precautions
Cyclamen, also known as radish begonia, rabbit ear flower, rabbit flower, yipin crown, bonfire flower, and fan-petal lotus, is a perennial herbaceous plant in the primrose family (Primulaceae), genus Cyclamen. It is a commonly grown flower, suitable for indoor pots, and in winter requires greenhouse cultivation. Below, the editor will introduce the cultivation methods for cyclamen!
Growth habits of cyclamen
Cyclamen prefers warmth and fears heat; it grows best in a cool environment and in fertile sandy loam rich in humus. It is relatively cold-tolerant and can withstand low temperatures of 0°C without freezing damage.
From autumn to the spring of the 2nd year is its growing season, and in summer it is semi-dormant. The suitable growing temperature in winter is between 12--16°C; when promoting flowering it should not exceed 18--22°C. Above 0°C the plant will enter dormancy, and above 35°C the plant is prone to rot and death. In winter it can tolerate low temperatures, but below 5°C growth is slow, flower color is dull, and flowering is reduced.
Supplementing carbon dioxide gas in winter can promote growth and flowering. During the growing period, it requires a humid air environment and sufficient sunlight.
Propagation methods for cyclamen
The main propagation methods for cyclamen include seed propagation, tuber division propagation, and tissue culture propagation. Let's take a look at the propagation methods for cyclamen!
1. Seed propagation
Seed propagation is one of the commonly used methods for propagating cyclamen. Cyclamen seeds can only be obtained after artificial pollination. The seeds generally mature in May and should be harvested promptly. Cyclamen seeds are relatively large, with a thousand-grain weight of about 10 g, and the general germination rate is 85%--95%. To promote seed germination, soak the seeds before sowing to hasten germination: soak in cold water for 24 h or in 30°C warm water for 2--3 h, then wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a wet cloth to hasten germination, and maintain at 25°C for 1--2 d. Once the seeds show slight sprouting, they can be taken out and sown. The sowing time is generally in September--October, and ordinary flower pots can be used for sowing.
The sowing soil is best as sandy loam rich in humus, and it can only be used after being finely sieved. When sowing, first place the soil in the pot, sprinkle thoroughly with water using a watering can, and after the water has completely seeped down, immediately sow the seeds in the pot at a spacing of 1--1.5 cm, cover with 0.5 cm of soil after sowing, and cover with glass or plastic film to retain moisture, placing it in a semi-shaded spot at 20--22°C. When the pot soil is slightly dry, soak thoroughly by the bottom-watering method so that the pot soil remains constantly moist. Under normal conditions, seedlings can emerge in about 20 d. After the seedling leaves have fully unfolded, the 1st transplanting can be carried out. For transplanting, ordinary flower pots can still be used, with the same soil as for sowing; the seedling spacing should be about 3 cm, and immediately after transplanting sprinkle thoroughly with water using a watering can. Afterward, just keep the seedling pot moist.
When the seedlings have grown 3 leaves and the small corms have grown to 5--6 mm in diameter, they should be timely divided and potted. A small pot with a 9 cm diameter can be used directly for single-plant transplanting.
After sieving, the pot soil is mixed and prepared in the ratio of 2 parts leaf mold, 2 parts garden soil, 5 parts fine yellow sand, and 1 part decomposed manure powder. When transplanting, carry as much of the small soil ball as possible, and keep it level with the soil surface. After transplanting, sprinkle thoroughly with water and place in an indoor sunny spot. After the seedlings resume growth, timely water and fertilize. Generally, they can bloom by the winter of the 2nd year.
2. Tuber division propagation
Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce offsets, so they cannot be propagated by dividing bulbs like ordinary bulbous flowers; artificial cutting propagation is required. Generally in late August, when the tubers are about to sprout, cut the tuber longitudinally from the top into several pieces, each piece should have a bud eye. Coat the cut surfaces with plant ash, let them dry slightly, and then they can be planted separately in flower pots. With careful management, they will soon unfold leaves and bloom.
3. Tissue culture propagation
Cyclamen tissue culture propagation can use flower buds, tubers, leaves, young stems, etc. as explants, generally collected from 1- to 2-year-old young plants, among which tubers as explants are the easiest to induce seedling formation. For tubers as explants, MS medium can be selected, with MS+3 mg/L 6-BA+1 mg/L NAA as the induction medium, 1/2MS+0.3 mg/L NAA as the rooting medium, and MS+3 mg/L 6-BA+0.4 mg/L NAA as the subculture medium.
Cultivation methods for cyclamen
The dormant corms of cyclamen generally begin to sprout new buds from late August to mid-September, at which time the pot soil should be replaced in time. The culture soil is prepared in the ratio of 3 parts leaf mold, 4 parts fine yellow sand, 2 parts garden soil, and 1 part decomposed dry manure powder. When changing pots, the corm should carry only part of the old soil, and planting should not be too deep; generally it is appropriate for 1/3 of the top of the corm to be exposed above the soil surface. After initial planting, the pot soil should not be too wet; slight moisture is sufficient. Afterward, according to the plant's sprouting condition, gradually increase watering and provide sufficient sunlight. After the leaves grow out, keep the pot soil constantly moist. At the same time, apply 1 time per week of decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer until fertilization is stopped before flowering. When fertilizing and watering, avoid submerging the top of the corm, otherwise the terminal bud is prone to rot. After each fertilization, also rinse once with clean water.
Adult cyclamen corms generally begin to bloom by early December, and reach full bloom in February and March of the 2nd year. To prolong the flowering period, after flowering they can be placed in a lower-temperature location. Thereafter, as the outside temperature rises, flowering gradually decreases by May, but varieties that flower later can still bloom in June. Because summers in northern regions are relatively cool, as long as ventilation, shading, and other conditions are provided, some varieties can also bloom in summer. However, most begin to lose leaves after June, and at this time watering should be gradually reduced, keeping the pot soil slightly dry as appropriate.
By July it enters the dormant period. During dormancy, the room must be well ventilated and kept in a cool environment, with the maximum temperature not exceeding 30°C, and watering should be reduced, especially avoiding rain exposure.
Old cyclamen corms will bloom later year by year, but the number of flowers is greater, with up to more than 50 flowers in a single flowering. After old corms have bloomed for 4 years, they will gradually age, the number of flowers will also greatly decrease, and they will lose cultivation value. The corms are also prone to rot and should be renewed in time.
Management and care of cyclamen
During cultivation, the soil should be loose. A mixed culture soil of 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and a small amount of superphosphate can be used. Dried and crushed river mud can also be used, or a mixed culture soil of 2 parts peat and 1 part perlite. The culture soil needs fumigation and disinfection. When changing pots, gradually increase the pot size according to the plant size; it is not appropriate to directly use a large pot to cultivate small seedlings. When planting, shallow planting is appropriate. When potting or repotting large seedlings, make 2/3--1/2 of the corm sit above the soil surface, so as to prevent the corm from rotting due to moisture in the soil. Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer; concentrated fertilizer easily damages the roots. Topdressing can be about 3 times per month. Before fertilizing, loosen the soil; choose sunny days for topdressing. Fertilizer must not be applied from the top of the plant; it is best to apply it at the side. After fertilizing, spray water to rinse. The care and management of cyclamen is roughly divided into 5 stages:
1. Seedling stage: When the first leaf has grown fully and the true leaves first appear, transplanting is required. When the seedlings have 3--4 leaves, they can be planted in flower pots with a diameter of 10 cm. Later, as the plant grows, change to larger flower pots. The latest time for changing pots must not exceed June. If the seedlings are small, they can be left in small flower pots to pass the summer. Seedlings need shading. In hot weather, frequently loosen the soil, weed, water, and fertilize.
2. Summer seedling preservation stage: Summer temperatures are high, which is extremely unfavorable for cyclamen growth. Cooling equipment should be used to lower the environmental temperature so that they can pass the summer safely. To avoid high temperatures, use two layers of shade netting for shading, control watering, and stop fertilizing.
3. First-year flowering stage: After autumn begins, growth resumes, and watering can be gradually increased and thin fertilizer applied. In mid-October, place in a sunny spot. The greenhouse air should be humid. Fertilize 2--3 times per month. From mid-December to early February, fertilization is generally not needed, but if in a higher-temperature environment, fertilization may continue. Generally, flowering begins in November.
4. Summer bulb dormancy stage: After May, the leaves gradually turn yellow, and watering should be gradually stopped to let them become dormant. After the leaves have completely withered, place in a low-temperature, ventilated environment so the bulbs can pass the summer safely. Generally, place the pot in a cool, rain-sheltered spot.
5. Second-year flowering stage: After the hot summer, water lightly to revive the bulbs and sprout. After sprouting, repot with new culture soil and remove rotten roots. Maintain in a greenhouse, and they can bloom around December. After flowering, they again enter the summer bulb dormancy period. Newly propagated seedlings generally begin to bloom in November. If during the bud stage the temperature is kept at 15°C--20°C, spraying 100 mg/L gibberellin on the flower buds and pedicels can promote pedicel elongation and accelerate flowering.