What to Do If Pothos Leaves Have Black Spots? Teaching You the Correct Way to Handle It
What to do if pothos leaves have black spots - I believe this is something that gives many friends a real headache. Regarding what to do if pothos leaves have black spots, today the editor will offer you some tips. Let's take a look together at what to do if pothos leaves have black spots!
What to Do If Pothos Leaves Have Black Spots?
1. The pothos may have leaf spot disease. In addition, it is also prone to root rot. Prevention and treatment methods:
① Remove diseased leaves and ensure good ventilation.
② During the onset period, spray with a 500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, and it can also be used to drench the roots.
2. Poor ventilation causes black spots on pothos leaves. The prevention and treatment method is to remove diseased leaves and ensure good ventilation.
3. Due to low temperatures, expose the plant to more sunlight during the day and bring it indoors at night, but do not place it in the bedroom, as it releases carbon dioxide at night, which is not good for human health.
What Are the Care Precautions?
1. Light: The pothos's original growing conditions are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its heliotropism is not strong. However, in the autumn and winter of the north, to compensate for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the brightest spot indoors, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to bask in the sun. At the same time, when temperatures are low, open windows as little as possible, because leaves can be frostbitten in a very short time.
2. Temperature: In the north, pothos can safely overwinter at a room temperature above 10°C, and can grow normally at a room temperature above 20°C. Generally, households can reach this temperature without much trouble. What needs attention is avoiding excessive temperature differences, and also making sure the leaves do not come close to heating equipment.
3. Humidity: This refers to the moisture content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of maintaining normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. The following methods can be used to increase humidity. Place the plant near a humidifier, with the humidifier running for more than 5 hours a day, so the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water onto the plant's leaves, stems and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flower pot saucer, and increase the local humidity around the plant through its evaporation; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or lightly apply it to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through the evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long a time will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.
4. Water: In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating is turned on, when the temperature is lower, the soil of the plant evaporates more slowly, so watering should be reduced, and the amount of water should be controlled to between 1/4 and 1/2 of the original. Even after heating is turned on, watering should not be too frequent. When watering, pour less into the pot; water should seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where the aerial roots grow on the coir pole, to reduce insufficient water absorption by the roots caused by excessively fast evaporation. In winter, water that has been left to sit for a day after being drawn is better for watering, as water that is too cold can easily damage the roots.
5. Fertilizer: In the autumn and winter seasons of the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly apply liquid inorganic fertilizer by watering or spraying, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing should mainly be foliar spraying, applied mainly through the stomata on the leaf surface, with the fertilizer absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, so the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Special fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. Beida Huhuashen series and Japan-produced Hanafirst, etc. can all be used as foliar fertilizer.
6. Pothos pole: Pothos does not produce seeds. It can survive if you buy it from a flower shop or cut some tender, sturdy tip cuttings from relatives and friends. After the tip cuttings sprout, a pothos pole can be added. The pothos pole has the function of fixing and supporting the pothos's growth, and can also provide necessary moisture. Usually, the pothos pole is placed into the pot, buried with a little soil, and fixed with wooden sticks formed into a triangle, then buried in soil. Because plants still need to grow, the soil should not be too much. Insert the already sprouted pothos seedlings into the soil. Generally speaking, the denser the pothos seedlings in the pot, the better they look after growing out; about 4-5 plants should be planted in one pot. Use string to tie the seedlings on one side and fix them to the coir pole on the other, and water toward the coir pole to keep it moist. After some days, the pothos's aerial roots will take root and grow inside the coir pole. The best time to add the pothos pole is at the turn of spring and summer; in winter, temperatures are low and seedlings are easily damaged, so when adding the pole, attention should be paid to keeping the temperature right.