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How much does a Chidan camellia cost? Detailed guide to growing methods

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Chidan camellia prices and growing methods

Chidan camellia is a variety of camellia and a classic cultivar of Camellia japonica, also known as sea pomegranate, jade tea flower, winter-hardy camellia, etc. It originated in East China. Its flowers are large, brilliant, varied and lively, and it has long been favored by camellia enthusiasts. It has been widely cultivated in China from ancient times to the present. Let us take a look together at Chidan camellia prices and growing methods!

How much does a Chidan camellia cost per plant?

Variety Canopy diameter Plant height Price
Chidan camellia 1-2 cm 10-15 cm 0.4-0.5 yuan
Five-color Chidan 10-12 cm 20-30 cm 6-8 yuan
Five-color Chidan 40-50 cm 60-80 cm 40-60 yuan

Note: Chidan camellia is a rare camellia treasure and is divided into East China camellia, Sichuan camellia and late camellia, etc. Its mutant varieties include “Fendan” and “Yuanyang Fengguan”. Market prices vary depending on variety, specification, place of origin and so on.

Propagation methods of Chidan camellia

1. Cutting propagation: For Chidan camellia cuttings, mid-June and the end of August are the most suitable. Select current-year semi-mature branches from the outer canopy that are firm in tissue, have complete leaves and plump leaf buds as cuttings. After insertion, healing begins in about 3 weeks, roots form after 6 weeks, and when the roots are 3-4 cm long they are transplanted into pots.

2. Layering propagation: For Chidan camellia layering propagation, in the plum rain season select vigorous 1-year-old branches, make a ring-shaped girdle 20 cm from the tip, 1 cm wide, bind with leaf mold soil and then wrap with plastic film. Roots form after about 60 days and the cut-off part can be directly potted, with a very high survival rate.

Growing methods for Chidan camellia

1. Soil: Chidan camellia has high soil requirements. Generally the soil should contain relatively high humus, with a pH between 5 and 6.5, slightly acidic. The best soil mix is 50% mountain soil, 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, and 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder.

2. Light: Chidan camellia is a semi-shade flower. In summer it needs a shed for shade. After the Start of Autumn it enters the flower bud differentiation stage, and the whole plant should gradually receive sufficient light. In winter it should be placed indoors in a sunny spot. If indoor light is too weak, growth will be poor and it will be prone to pests and diseases.

3. Temperature: Chidan camellia likes warmth and fears cold. Indoor temperature must not be lower than 5°C. At 10°C to 15°C, with other measures taken appropriately, it can bloom at Spring Festival, and the flowering period can last until March.

4. Watering: In winter, watering Chidan camellia depends on indoor temperature, generally about once every 3 days, keeping the pot soil moist. Avoid waterlogging or half-watering. It is best to add one percent ferrous sulfate to the water to help improve water quality.

5. Fertilizing: Chidan camellia likes fertilizer. Apply sufficient base fertilizer when potting or repotting. In autumn and winter, because flower buds develop quickly, apply a diluted decomposed liquid fertilizer once a week and supplement with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1 to 2 times. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can easily cause flower buds to scorch and wither. After flowering, fertilize less or not at all.

6. Repotting: Chidan camellia can be repotted once every 1-2 years. The new pot should be one size larger than the old pot to facilitate root spread and development. Repotting is best done in April in spring. Along with changing the soil, appropriately remove some of the compacted old soil, replace it with fertile, loose new soil, and place base fertilizer at the same time.

Pest and disease control for Chidan camellia

1. Anthracnose

[Harm] Anthracnose mostly appears at leaf margins, leaf tips and on both sides of the veins. Dark green spots first appear, then gradually expand into irregular large patches, with the color changing from brown to black. In severe cases it can spread to the entire leaf, causing a large amount of leaf drop.

[Control] Thoroughly remove diseased leaves, prune diseased and dead branches in winter, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture before the disease period each year, spray with 600 times chlorothalonil aqueous solution once a week, and spray 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution before the leaves unfold.

2. Algal leaf spot

[Harm] Disease spots can appear on both sides of the leaf, but mainly on the upper surface. In the early stage they are pinhead-sized grayish-green small round spots, then gradually expand outward in a radial pattern, forming approximately round or irregular disease spots.

[Control] Strengthen cultivation management, fertilize reasonably, prune in time, avoid making the camellia woodland too shaded, and ensure ventilation and light penetration to improve camellia resistance. Spraying with 0.2-0.5% copper sulfate solution can be used for control.

3. Twig blight

[Harm] Affected branches become necrotic, leaves change from green to pale yellow, gradually dry up and fall from the top downward, and finally the entire branch tip dries up and dies.

[Control] Before the plant sprouts and grows shoots, spray with fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl, thiram and chlorothalonil, and in particular ensure that the wounded parts of the branches are sprayed.

4. Root rot

[Harm] The roots of affected plants rot and turn black, leaves turn yellow, shoot tips die, flower buds fall off, and the plant gradually wilts and dies.

[Control] Promptly dig out diseased plants and the contaminated soil nearby and use 1% copper sulfate solution to disinfect the soil around the diseased plants. At the same time, keep the soil well drained and strictly prevent water accumulation in the cultivation area.

5. Red leaf spot

[Harm] Disease spots mostly occur on relatively tender leaves. At first they are light brown round water-soaked small spots, then spread. Sometimes multiple disease spots merge into larger patches or spread over the entire leaf, causing a large amount of leaf scorching and drop.

[Control] In the early stage of disease, spray with 70% thiophanate-methyl 1000-1500 times solution or 25% folpet 400 times solution for control.

6. Flower rot

[Harm] Affected flowers first show small brown spots, which then gradually expand until the entire flower turns brown and withers.

[Control] When camellia flowers infected with this disease are found, they should be removed in time and burned in a centralized manner. Before flowering, fungicides such as carbendazim can be sprayed on the flower buds 2-3 times.

7. Sooty mold

[Harm] The surface of affected camellia leaves is covered with a layer of fungal mycelium, forming a black "sooty" layer, which hinders the normal photosynthesis and gas exchange of the camellia plant and severely restricts its growth and development.

[Control] The pests that induce sooty mold are mainly aphids and scale insects, etc. Therefore, to control this disease, aphids and scale insects on camellia must first be controlled. Once the pests are eliminated, the disease naturally disappears.

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