How much do bowl lotus seeds cost? An introduction to growing methods
Bowl lotus, also known as pot lotus, bowl lotus, table lotus and so on, is a perennial aquatic plant of the genus Nelumbo in the family Nymphaeaceae with a multi-jointed rhizome. Since ancient times it has been a precious aquatic flower of palace gardens and private courtyards, and in today's modern landscape architecture it is increasingly favored by people and used more widely. Let's take a look below at bowl lotus seed prices and growing methods!
How much do bowl lotus seeds cost per jin?
The price of bowl lotus seeds is about 15-20 yuan per jin, but it varies depending on seed quality, variety, place of origin and market. Bowl lotus has extremely strong adaptability and can be propagated by division or by seed. Before sowing, first break the seed coat with an iron file, then soak the seeds in clean water, changing the water once a day; once 2-3 leaves have grown, they can be planted. In the early stage of planting, keep the water surface about 2 cm deep, and after standing leaves grow, keep it at 10 cm.
Sowing methods for bowl lotus
1. Sowing time: Lotus seeds have no dormancy period. As long as the water temperature can be kept above 16°C, they can be sown in all four seasons. Under suitable temperature and light conditions, it takes 50-60 days from sowing to flowering in spring, and 60-80 days in autumn.
2. Seed treatment: The outer shell of lotus seeds is hard and dense, so artificial nicking must be done before soaking. Rub the end with the small dent on rough cement ground until a layer of skin is worn through. Do not damage the kernel inside, and do not remove the shell, so that the seed can absorb water and swell.
3. Soaking seeds to promote germination: Soak the seeds whose shells have been broken in warm water at about 20-40 degrees. For small-scale household soaking, they can be placed in a thermos to keep warm. Generally, soaking to promote germination for 3-5 days is enough for sprouting, and the embryo bud extends from the opening.
Growing methods for bowl lotus
1. Transplanting: For growing bowl lotus, choose a bottomless ceramic pot or plastic flower pot with a diameter of 45-75 cm. Add half a pot of garden soil or river pond mud. When transplanting, press the fine roots of the small lotus seedlings into the mud, one plant per pot, then add an appropriate amount of water after transplanting, to the extent that the water does not submerge the small lotus leaves.
2. Water: The amount of watering for bowl lotus varies at different growth stages. When first planted, do not water too much; too much water will hinder the growth of young roots and cause root rot. As the leaves grow larger, gradually add more clean water. In summer, water once in the morning and once in the evening.
3. Fertilizing: Before planting bowl lotus, mix a small amount of decomposed cake fertilizer liquid or soybean meal or peanut meal into the pot soil as a base fertilizer, but do not over-fertilize. Generally, mixing a small amount of cake fertilizer powder and other base fertilizer into the growing soil at planting time can meet its needs for the whole year.
4. Light: Bowl lotus likes plenty of sunlight. If light is less than 4 hours per day, it cannot form flower buds. During the growth period, it needs to be placed on a sunny balcony or a sunny spot by a windowsill so that it receives full sun. In summer and early autumn, appropriate shading is needed around noon.
5. Pruning: When the leaves of bowl lotus grow too many and too dense, some leaves can be appropriately removed to help the plant breathe and ventilate. It also helps with flowering. When multiple plants are grown in the same container and the leaves are found to be competing for sunlight, they should be divided into separate pots in time.
Pest and disease control for bowl lotus
1. Rot disease
[Symptoms] The disease occurs on the whole plant, starting from the seed root and spreading to the underground stem, leaf stalks, leaves and flower stalks. The underground stem initially seems to have no symptoms, but some of the vessels in its cross-section turn light brown or brown and gradually expand.
[Control] Spray 600x dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder plus 600x dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder.
2. Leaf rot
[Symptoms] It damages the leaves floating flat on the water surface. The lesions are irregular in shape, some in an “S” shape, some shaped like earthworms, brown or dark brown. Severely affected leaves turn brown and rot and are difficult to lift from the water surface.
[Control] In the early stage of the disease, spray 800x dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, or 800x dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, or 500x dilution of 30% basic copper sulfate suspension, once every 10 days or so, for 2-3 consecutive treatments.
3. Spot rot
[Symptoms] Small water-soaked black spots first appear on the leaves, then expand into round to polygonal or irregular lesions with black edges and yellow halos, gray-black in the middle with concentric rings. The diseased parts tend to rupture or fall off, causing the leaves and leaf margins to become incomplete and irregular.
[Control] 600x dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, or 600x dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, or 500x dilution of 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension, once every 10 days or so, for 2-3 consecutive treatments.
4. Anthracnose
[Symptoms] It occurs on the leaves, with small brown spots appearing first, then the spots expand into nearly round lesions more than 10 mm in size, and the edges of the lesions are darker in color.
[Control] 600x dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, or 500x dilution of 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension, or 1500x dilution of 50% benomyl wettable powder, or 800x dilution of 80% anthracnose thiram wettable powder, once every 10 days or so, for 2-3 consecutive treatments.