Key Points and Methods of Farmyard Manure Composting Explained
In vegetable greenhouse cultivation, most farmers choose farmyard manure as the base fertilizer, because farmyard manure has a complete nutrient content, long-lasting effect and low cost, so it has become the first choice of base fertilizer for many vegetable growers. However, farmyard manure must be fully composted before being used as a base fertilizer, otherwise it easily leads to root burn, ammonia damage, soil-borne diseases and serious underground pests. Many vegetable growers also know about composting farmyard manure, but the specific method of operation is wrong, which is not only labor-intensive and time-consuming, but also means the farmyard manure is not fully composted.
Why does farmyard manure need to be composted?
“Cold manure for fruit trees, hot manure for vegetables, raw manure on the land rots the roots.” Farmyard manure used without composting will cause many problems.
1. Uncomposted farmyard manure often contains a large number of germs and insect eggs, which easily causes root diseases and pests in fruit trees, and also pollutes the environment.
2. The nutrients in uncomposted farmyard manure are mostly in organic form, which is not easily absorbed by fruit trees, resulting in fertilizer loss.
3. When farmyard manure is decomposed and fermented by microorganisms in the soil, it produces a large amount of heat, which easily burns the fine roots of fruit trees.
4. When farmyard manure is decomposed and fermented by microorganisms in the soil, it absorbs a large amount of nitrogen, causing short-term nitrogen deficiency in fruit trees.
5. The decomposition and fermentation of farmyard manure in the soil by microorganisms requires a process, causing a lag in fertilizer effect, which is difficult to align with the growth rhythm and fertilizer demand period of fruit trees, failing to achieve the purpose of fertilization and even causing adverse effects.
From the problems above, it can be seen that farmyard manure must be composted before application. So how should farmyard manure be composted?
Composting Techniques for Farmyard Manure
Fertilizer formed by mixing various fresh livestock manure and urine with bedding material needs, during the piling process, to be decomposed by microorganisms into nutrients and humic substances in a form usable by crops. Only such organic fertilizer is suitable for application. The key to composting is to do it in time. There are four commonly used methods for composting organic fertilizer.
1. Loose piling method: Fresh livestock manure and urine taken from the pen are piled loosely at the manure storage site, keeping good aeration during the piling process. Under high temperature conditions, livestock manure and urine decompose quickly, and in a short period, composted organic fertilizer can be produced, but the loss of nutrients such as nitrogen is relatively large.
2. Tight piling method: Livestock manure and urine removed from the pen are piled layer by layer at the manure storage site, pressing firmly while piling. If too dry, an appropriate amount of water can be added to keep it moist. The height of the manure pile should be 1.5 m to 2 m. After piling is complete, seal the manure pile with mud, and generally maintain the temperature at 15°C to 35°C. With this method, more humus accumulates and less nitrogen is lost. After about 3 to 4 months, the organic fertilizer can reach a semi-composted state, and only after more than 6 months can it be fully composted.
3. Loose-tight alternating piling method: Using alternating loose and tight piling can both shorten the composting time of organic fertilizer and reduce nitrogen loss. Pile fresh organic fertilizer loosely outside the pen to a height of about 1 m, without pressing firmly, to allow fermentation. Generally after 2 to 3 days, the temperature inside the pile can reach 60°C to 70°C, after which fresh organic fertilizer can continue to be piled on, layer by layer, until the height reaches 2 m to 2.5 m. Seal the manure pile with mud, maintain the temperature, block air from entering, and prevent nutrient loss and massive water evaporation. Generally after 1.5 to 2 months it can reach a semi-composted state, and after 4 months it can be fully composted.
4. ETS microbial community rapid treatment method: Spread out the organic material to be composted (mainly a mixture of animal excrement and plant straw and other waste, with a moisture content of preferably about 50%-60%), then sprinkle in the composting agent, applying it at a ratio of 10 kg composting agent (or 1 bag of Mumei Tuli compound microbial fertilizer can also be used) to 4 cubic meters of organic material. Where conditions permit, it is best to simply turn it over to ensure the composting agent can be evenly mixed into the organic material. After completing the above steps, pile it up, with a pile height of about 0.5-1 m. After piling is complete, insert a thermometer at a 45-degree angle to the ground. Observe once each morning and evening. If the temperature exceeds 60°C for 2 consecutive days, it needs to be turned over. After the organic material has no odor and the pile temperature drops below 40°C, it can be piled into a large heap for later use (generally about 30 days in total).