How to fertilize orchids? Master the correct fertilizing method
Orchids belong to the family Orchidaceae and are monocotyledonous plants, perennial herbs. They reach 20-40 cm in height, with long tubular roots. The leaves grow in clusters from the base of the stem, linear-lanceolate, slightly leathery, 2 to 3 leaves forming a tuft. (1) The substrate is too wet or too dry. Growing orchids on a balcony is very different from growing them on the ground. Orchid pots on the ground are directly connected to the earth and can...
Do not fertilize until the new roots have grown in fully. After being moved around repeatedly, orchid seedlings are in a conservative, suppressed state. Their resistance is very weak, the wounds from broken roots have not yet healed, and they are highly susceptible to disease infection. When planting, besides making sure to use weakly acidic humus soil or ordinary plain soil, never apply base fertilizer. Due to environmental changes, after potting the orchid seedlings slowly recover their functions in the moist substrate, but this is a fairly long period of adapting to the pot. During this time, because the orchid roots have not fully recovered their functions, they basically do not absorb fertilizer from the soil and rely entirely on the nutrients stored in the pseudobulbs to supply the needs of roots, leaves and buds. Only when orchid fungi gradually appear, the mycelium spreads densely, forming conditions suitable for vigorous orchid growth and has more or less covered the pot, do the orchid seedlings fully return to normal, with increased resistance, and can then be given a little weak fertilizer. This process takes about 1-2 years. Although no fertilizer is applied during this period, the orchid seedlings can still grow and develop normally and slowly, because the nutrients produced by the orchid fungi can basically meet the needs of the orchid seedlings at this stage.Do not fertilize if the orchid plants are not robust. During the fertilizing period, if the orchid plants do not develop normally, new buds fail to emerge, the orchid leaves are grayish green, dull and lusterless, drooping with scorched tips, it means the old roots are continuing to rot and new roots have not grown. At this time, by no means should fertilizer be applied; only regular foliar spraying can supplement nutrients. If they still cannot return to normal, the seedlings must be lifted out, disinfected, and repotted with fresh soil.
Do not fertilize until the new buds have grown. When potted orchid seedlings send out leaf buds, it shows that orchid fungi have initially formed, new roots are gradually growing and beginning to absorb nutrients, but at this time the new roots are still very short and few, with weak function. In order not to affect their development, no fertilizer of any kind should be applied. Only after the new buds have grown to 15 cm in height can a little fertilizer be applied.
Do not fertilize if the flower buds are not plump. By early autumn, the new roots become increasingly strong and begin to send out flower buds. If the flower buds produced are not plump or even deformed, it shows that root function is still not vigorous and can only barely satisfy reproductive growth, not vegetative growth. This kind of orchid with insufficient vitality also cannot be fertilized, and nutrients still need to be supplemented through foliar spraying.
Grasp the seasonal timing: the five no-fertilize situations
Do not fertilize in early spring: although spring temperatures are very low, orchid seedlings are just gradually reviving from dormancy and their activity is very weak. If fertilizer is applied at this time, it will remain at the roots because the orchids cannot fully absorb it, causing fertilizer damage.
Do not fertilize in summer: when the temperature generally reaches around 35°C, orchid seedlings enter a semi-dormant state, vegetative growth slows down, and root activity weakens. Fertilizing at this time is likewise difficult for the orchid roots to absorb and easily causes fertilizer damage.
Do not fertilize in winter: winter temperatures are very low, orchids enter dormancy, flower buds enter the vernalization period, vegetative growth stops, and no fertilizer can be applied.
Do not fertilize in bad weather: do not fertilize when it is raining or about to rain. First, the applied fertilizer is easily washed away by rain and lost; second, due to weather changes, orchid root activity is relatively weakened.
Do not fertilize at noon: it is best to fertilize in the morning or evening on a sunny day. At noon the temperature is relatively high, and fertilizing easily harms orchid seedlings.
What fertilizer to apply
Decomposed farmyard manure: farmyard manure is a very good organic fertilizer, but it must be piled and decomposed for more than one year before use. This kind of fertilizer liquid can be diluted with water 10-20 times and poured on, applied as much as possible along the edge of the pot, not touching the roots and not clinging to the orchid leaves.
Chemical fertilizers: when applying chemical fertilizers, pay attention to the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and strictly control the concentration. For variegated-leaf seedlings, the synthesis of chlorophyll should be controlled, so nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied, nor should fertilizers containing manganese and magnesium (such as calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, etc.), because manganese and magnesium elements can accelerate chlorophyll synthesis. For flowering orchids, if cultivating large-petaled flowers, an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be added.
How to fertilize
Apply frequently and lightly, eat small meals often: orchids do not need much fertilizer during their development and growth period. For vigorously growing, robust orchid plants, a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 10-15 days.
Mainly rely on foliar spraying: foliar spraying can both supplement the orchid plant's nutrition through absorption by the orchid leaves and avoid fertilizer contacting the roots and causing fertilizer damage. For orchids, it is the best fertilizing method. As long as during the growth and development period you persist in foliar spraying about once every 10 days, you can fully grow orchids well without needing to apply fertilizer into the pot. You can use 1:1000 potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1:1000 boron fertilizer, or aloe liquid. This is because aloe contains large amounts of nutrients such as polysaccharides and amino acids, and contains more than 20 kinds of minerals, which can meet the nutrients needed by orchids. Moreover, aloe contains aloe tincture, which can kill almost all germs and viruses, so after application there is no need to apply pesticides again for disease prevention.
Mainly use natural organic matter. Natural organic fertilizers have relatively comprehensive nutrient elements, so no other fertilizers need to be applied, and they are mild in nature with no side effects on plants. Chemical fertilizers, however, easily cause the substrate to compact, and most chemical fertilizers are acidic. Long-term application will make the substrate too acidic and cause disease.