How should orchids be fertilized during cultivation to grow better?
How should orchids be fertilized during cultivation? Please explain the methods. For orchid cultivation, you can refer to the following methods for fertilizing orchids: 1. The main fertilizer components orchids need. 1. Nitrogen, which mainly promotes vigorous growth of stems and leaves and deep green leaf color. When nitrogen is deficient, the leaves turn pale yellow and the plant grows slowly. Nitrogen fertilizer components are found in relatively high amounts in soybean cake, oilseed crops and urea.
How should orchids be fertilized during cultivation? Please explain the methods.For orchid cultivation, you can refer to the following methods for fertilizing orchids:
I. The main fertilizer components orchids need
1. Nitrogen, which mainly promotes vigorous growth of stems and leaves and deep green leaf color. When nitrogen is deficient, the leaves turn pale yellow and the plant grows slowly. Nitrogen fertilizer components are found in relatively high amounts in soybean cake, oilseed crops and urea.
2. Phosphorus, which can promote well-developed roots, a substantial plant, and the formation and development of flower buds and leaf buds. Phosphorus fertilizer components are found in relatively high amounts in bone meal, fish meal and superphosphate.
3. Potassium, which can dissolve and transport nutrients to the cells, making the plant firm, the stem and leaf tissues substantial, and growth upright, and enhancing the plant's ability to resist pests and diseases. Potassium-deficient plants become shorter, with soft, drooping and scorched leaves, and growth may even be hindered. Potassium is mainly contained in plant ash and potassium-based inorganic fertilizers. The above three fertilizer components are the main fertilizer nutrients that promote orchid growth. What we usually call fertilizing mainly means applying these three fertilizers: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition, during growth orchids also need trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, copper, boron and zinc. But under normal circumstances, growing media will not lack these, so they generally do not need to be added. If they are lacking, this can be solved by changing the growing medium, or by topdressing with a full-price synthetic organic fertilizer.
II. Types of fertilizers orchids need. Fertilizers are mainly divided into two major categories, organic fertilizers and inorganic fertilizers. In addition, there are high-efficiency synthetic flower fertilizers and biological bacterial fertilizers.
1. Commonly used organic fertilizers:
Human and livestock manure: urine is used after fermentation and composting, called "golden juice" in ancient times, and its main component is nitrogen; cow, sheep, pig and dog manure, after fermentation, can be used as dry fertilizer or made into fertilizer water and used after dilution. This kind of fertilizer is complete in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Composted fertilizer: there are many traditional types of composted fertilizer, such as soybean cake, rapeseed cake, fishy water, chicken feathers, fish intestines and so on, soaked and fermented, then diluted for use after 3--6 months of composting. Composted fertilizers are also relatively complete in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Grass juice: made by composting tender grass grown in spring or early summer into a liquid. Its main fertilizer component is nitrogen.
2. Commonly used inorganic fertilizers:
Commonly used inorganic fertilizers include potassium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, urea and so on. These inorganic fertilizers have varying effects on orchids and all contain certain inorganic salt components, so they must be used with caution.
3. High-efficiency synthetic organic liquid fertilizers and biological bacterial fertilizers:
Orchid Bacteria King, a full-price nutrient element, has the effects of promoting roots, stimulating buds and strengthening seedlings.
Zhiquan, a comprehensive mineral health element, has the effects of promoting roots, stimulating buds, improving vitality, preventing viral infection and so on.
Xishuo, a natural algae fertilizer and soil amendment, contains various elements as well as natural plant hormones and active bacterial agents, and can resist cold, drought and moisture and inhibit viral infection and so on.
Root Promoter, a comprehensive plant root nutritional supplement, makes the roots more vigorous, thereby making orchid plants grow rapidly, and can also inhibit viral infection.
4. Long-acting slow-release granular fertilizers, such as "Magic Fertilizer" and "Shike" made in the United States and "Yiduo" made in Taiwan, China. Placing a few granules in the pot allows fertilizer components to be released slowly year-round.
III. What fertilizers orchids need during the growing season. During the annual growing period, the fertilizers orchids need include:
1. Wake-up fertilizer, applied to break dormancy, promote early sprouting and gain a longer growing period. It can be applied when the daytime temperature reaches above 15c and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 5c. Inorganic fertilizers such as urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate and biological bacterial fertilizers are best applied as foliar sprays.
2. Bud-stimulating fertilizer, applied to promote early and abundant sprouting and to gain effective early-autumn buds. It can be applied 7--10 days after applying the wake-up fertilizer.
3. Root-promoting fertilizer, when the leaf buds extend about 3cm above the pot surface, there is a pause in growth. At this time new roots gradually grow, and the plant enters the period of vegetative growth and reproductive growth. At this stage more nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium elements are needed to promote rapid growth of new roots.
4. Growth-promoting fertilizer, applied to satisfy the orchid plant's need for new shoots to develop quickly, grow quickly and mature quickly, and to be able to sprout a second time in late summer and early autumn, and to gain the second batch of shoots sprouting and maturing early. It is the type applied for the longest time and the greatest number of times in a year. It is best to use organic fertilizers, inorganic fertilizers and biological bacterial fertilizers alternately, and to apply them alternately to the roots and as foliar sprays.
5. Flower-promoting fertilizer, applied to promote flower bud development and growth and achieve the goals of more flowers, larger flowers, brighter colors and fragrant scent.
6. Cold-resistance fertilizer. Stop applying nitrogen fertilizer 30 days before the orchid plants overwinter, and apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to help them overwinter, because phosphorus can lower the freezing point of the plant cells, and potassium can increase the plant's cellulose content and make the stem and leaf cortex tough. Choose potassium dihydrogen phosphate for root watering or foliar application.
IV. Basic methods of fertilizing orchids. The basic methods of fertilizing are base fertilizer and topdressing.
Fertilizer added directly and mixed into the growing medium is called base fertilizer. Because adding fertilizer to the growing medium is difficult to control, easily breeds pests and diseases, and easily burns roots and damages orchids, in recent years most orchid growers no longer use it. Topdressing methods again include two kinds: root fertilization and foliar fertilization.
1. "Root fertilization" means pouring fertilizer into the growing medium so that the roots absorb it.
Root fertilization methods include "pouring" and "soaking".
"Pouring" is the most commonly used method, which means pouring the fertilizer solution along the edge of the pot into the growing medium.
"Soaking" means directly sitting and soaking the orchid pot in the fertilizer solution. Both of the above methods have advantages and disadvantages. Only when used properly and applied reasonably can they be beneficial without harm. The root fertilization method we commonly use refers to the first one.
Root fertilization should pay attention to the following points:
First, the concentration must not be too high. Fertilizing should be little, dilute and frequent. Never apply excessively, otherwise it is easy to suffer fertilizer damage and cause death. Even if it fortunately does not die, it is difficult to recover after being damaged.
Second, when fertilizing, avoid splashing onto the leaf surface and pouring into the leaf center, especially after pouring into new shoots that have already split, which easily causes rot. Pour around the edge of the pot.
Third ⟧41⟧, water with "soul-returning water". After fertilizing in the evening, water with "soul-returning water" the next morning. It has two effects: first, washing off the fertilizer solution clinging to the orchid leaves; second, rinsing away excess fertilizer components remaining in the pot medium, so as to avoid fertilizer damage harming the orchid plants., you should water with "revival water". On the morning of the day after fertilizing in the evening, you should water with "revival water". It has two purposes: first, to wash off the fertilizer liquid that has stuck to the orchid leaves; second, to rinse away the excess fertilizer nutrients remaining in the potting medium, so as to avoid fertilizer burn that damages the orchid plant.
Fourth, newly potted orchid plants must not be fertilized. Fertilizing is only possible after orchid roots more than 3cm long have grown, otherwise the orchid will certainly die.
Fifth, do not apply fertilizer on low-temperature days below 10c°, high-temperature days above 30c°, or saturated-humidity cloudy and rainy days.
Sixth, the time for root fertilization is best in the evening. Fertilizing in the evening allows absorption overnight, and watering once more the next morning can avoid fertilizer damage. If fertilizing in the morning, the temperature in the pot rises easily under sunlight during the day, which very easily burns roots and damages seedlings.
Seventh, resold grass must not be given organic or inorganic fertilizer by root application within one year.
EighthOdors must be removed. All kinds of composted fertilizers have odors. The orchid owner may be able to tolerate them, but they will affect neighbors and cause conflicts. When orchids are grown indoors, the odor does not disperse for a long time after application, so deodorizing is needed. There are two deodorizing methods: first, compost for a longer time, preferably more than one year; second, put a little fruit peel, especially orange peel, into the composting liquid, which can effectively remove the odor.
2. "Foliar fertilization" means spraying an organic or inorganic aqueous solution with nutritional effects onto orchid leaves at a certain dose and concentration to provide direct nourishment. Foliar fertilization has the advantages of small dosage, strong targeting, rapid absorption, obvious effect and low cost, and is especially effective for orchid plants with no roots or few roots.
Foliar fertilization should pay attention to the following points:
First, spraying must be targeted, that is, choose the corresponding fertilizer according to the nutrients the orchid plant needs at each growth stage and supply them in a targeted way. For example, during the new shoot growth period, nitrogen fertilizer is mainly needed, and it must also be combined with potassium fertilizer to work; when new seedlings mature, potassium fertilizer should be added to ensure the plant grows strong; during the flower bud period, phosphorus fertilizer should be added; in addition, variegated orchids should be sprayed with less nitrogen fertilizer to prevent excessive nitrogen fertilizer from increasing chlorophyll and causing variegation to degrade.
Second, mixing must be scientific. Although commercial foliar fertilizers are relatively complete in fertilizer components, do not always use the same variety. They should be mixed and used alternately to make up for each other's shortcomings and make nutrition more comprehensive. For example, using urea as a foliar fertilizer easily causes excessive growth, so it must be mixed with potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Generally, acids and bases should not be mixed, and biological bacterial fertilizers should not be mixed with other fertilizers.
Third, the concentration ratio must be appropriate. The concentration used should strictly follow the relevant instructions. It is strictly forbidden to increase the concentration at will, otherwise it will be counterproductive, cause fertilizer damage, and even inhibit orchid growth.
Fourth, the spraying time must be reasonable. Foliar fertilization should not be carried out in the morning. Generally, on a sunny evening when sunlight cannot reach the leaf surface, it is best if the leaves dry within one hour after spraying. This on the one hand helps orchid leaves absorb nutrients at night, and on the other hand avoids fertilizer damage and reduced efficiency caused by light, especially preventing liquid accumulation in the leaf center from causing bud rot. In addition, the interval should not be too short; once every ten days or so is best, so as to avoid hypernutrition.
Fifth, the spraying method must be particular. Because fertilizer must be absorbed into the plant through leaf stomata, and leaf stomata are mainly on the underside of leaves, spraying should mainly reach the underside of leaves. The nozzle should face upward, and the mist droplets should be fine, so that there are more opportunities to reach the underside of leaves. At the same time, the spray amount should not be too large; it is best if the leaves do not drip, so as to prevent fertilizer solution from accumulating at leaf tips and causing fertilizer damage and tip burn.
Sixth, spray less during the dormant period. During the low-temperature dormant period, the physiological activity of orchid plants weakens and they generally do not absorb fertilizer. However, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, which improves cold resistance, and easily absorbed biological bacterial fertilizer can be sprayed about once every half month. At the same time, spraying a little foliar fertilizer on rootless and weak diseased orchid plants can maintain their lives and increase the survival rate.
Seventh, use growth hormones with caution. Growth hormones do indeed have a very good effect on promoting plant growth and development, increasing the sprouting rate, promoting early maturity and achieving increased yield, but their main function is to promote cell elongation. After application, excessive growth and even lodging may occur, which has an obvious impact on the health of orchid plants, so it is better not to use them.
Eighth, foliar application depends on the weather. On rainy days, air humidity is high and water is difficult to evaporate, so the fertilizer solution stays on the leaf surface for a long time and easily causes fertilizer damage. In high-temperature weather, especially in very hot weather above 30c, water evaporates too quickly, which rapidly increases the concentration of the foliar fertilizer and causes fertilizer damage, so it is not suitable for spraying.
Ninth, wash the leaves after spraying. After fertilizing in the evening, spray water once the next morning to wash off the fertilizer remaining on the orchid leaves, so as to avoid fertilizer damage caused by sunlight.
Tenth, foliar application cannot replace root application. Foliar fertilization is an auxiliary means of fertilizing and cannot completely replace root application. It can only make up for insufficient root absorption; otherwise it will cause root shrinkage and poor growth.
V. Points to note when fertilizing orchids. The technique of fertilizing orchids is both simple and complex. Usually the following points need attention:
First, different orchid species need different amounts of fertilizer. For example, Cymbidium faberi needs a large amount of fertilizer, while Cymbidium goeringii needs a small amount, only one fifth that of Cymbidium faberi.
Second, different cultivation media require different fertilizers. For example, hard materials such as volcanic stone and Xiantu do not contain fertilizer components themselves, so more fertilizer should be applied; while using humus and other materials as growing media means they already have fertilizer components, so less fertilizer is needed and the fertilizer requirement is smaller.
Third, different seedling conditions also mean different fertilizer requirements. Strong and large seedlings should be fertilized frequently and heavily, while old, weak and diseased seedlings should be grown plainly and must absolutely not be fertilized, otherwise haste makes waste and death will be accelerated.
Fourth. Use multiple fertilizers alternately. Using a single fertilizer makes it difficult to ensure complete fertilizer components. Generally speaking, it is best to use organic fertilizers, inorganic fertilizers and biological bacterial fertilizers alternately.
Fifth, fertilize according to the roots. Short and thick roots indicate excessive fertilizer; blackened roots indicate existing fertilizer damage; long roots indicate insufficient fertilizer; many fine roots indicate severe fertilizer deficiency.
Sixth, fertilize according to the leaves. For example, thin and pale orchid leaves indicate fertilizer deficiency, while thick and green orchid leaves indicate no fertilizer deficiency. After fertilizing, deep green leaf color indicates the fertilizer has taken effect; if the leaf color does not change, it indicates the fertilizer is too dilute and the concentration should be increased.
Seventh, do not fertilize during the flowering period. Flower buds have strong ability to absorb fertilizer components but weak tolerance. After flower buds emerge from the pot surface, fertilizing again will stimulate vegetative growth and inhibit reproductive growth, causing poor flower bud development, petals that do not open fully, and early flower withering. Fertilizing during the flowering period will certainly ruin the flowers.
Eighth, animal fertilizers and plant fertilizers must be fully fermented. Fresh fertilizer must not be applied. Applying fresh fertilizer will certainly kill orchids.
Ninth Pay attention to fertilizer damage. If the leaf color turns yellow and leaf tips scorch after fertilizing, it indicates too much or too concentrated fertilizer. Immediately water heavily or repot and change the soil for rescue, otherwise the orchid will certainly die.
Tenth The three fertilizer elements must be scientifically matched. In the process of orchid growth and development, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are all essential nutrient elements. Applying only nitrogen fertilizer while lacking phosphorus and potassium will not produce a very good effect either: the plant will grow excessively, the leaf quality will be soft, and it will be prone to pests and diseases. But favoring phosphorus and potassium fertilizers while lacking nitrogen fertilizer will make orchid plants grow short, with yellow-green, stiff and lusterless leaves, few new shoots, and plants prone to aging. Therefore, the relationship among the three elements must be handled well, and no single fertilizer should be overapplied. It is only that nitrogen fertilizer is a little more in the early growth stage, potassium fertilizer a little more in the middle growth stage, and phosphorus fertilizer a little more in the late growth stage.
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