Do not blindly water and fertilize flowers after winter cold damage
Mr. Li was afraid that his spider plant and money tree would suffer cold damage, so he watered them many times when the weather turned cold, only to find that the roots of the flowers had rotted. He went to the market to ask an expert and learned that he had fallen into a common mistake in growing flowers. On December 29, speaking of his "victimized" flowers at home, Mr. Li, who lives on Wanfeng Road in the city, was filled with regret.
On the morning of that day, a reporter visited the city's Zhaofeng Flower, Bird and Fish Market and learned that in recent times, flowers in many residents' homes had suffered cold damage and root rot. Many residents, eager to protect their flowers, had fallen into mistakes one after another. "The main reason residents' flowers have trouble surviving the winter is overwatering; in winter, flowers need more sun and less water." Manager Wang, who runs a flower business at the market, told the reporter that when faced with cold-damaged flowers, many residents first think of watering and fertilizing even more vigorously. Little do they know that blindly overdoing it will only make the flowers more cold-stricken or cause root rot.
Manager Wang said that in winter, flowers should be placed in the sun regularly; when the weather is clear and fine, they can be moved outside, and then moved back indoors at night. He suggested that generally, only after the average daily temperature has stayed above 10°C for 5 consecutive days is it suitable to move flowers outdoors.
Common types of biological pesticides for flowers
Biological pesticides for controlling jujube leaf-eating pests
Avoid pesticide spraying polluting the environment; big trees get a new type of "face mask" for winter
Pesticides banned or to be used with caution on flowers and fruit trees
Teach you to quickly make flower pesticides
Pesticides banned on flowers and fruit trees
Do not blindly water and fertilize flowers after winter cold damage
China Landscape Web, December 31 news: Mr. Li was afraid that his spider plant and money tree would suffer cold damage, so he watered them many times when the weather turned cold, only to find that the roots of the flowers had rotted. He went to the market to ask an expert and learned that he had fallen into a common mistake in growing flowers. On December 29, speaking of his "victimized" flowers at home, Mr. Li, who lives on Wanfeng Road in the city, was filled with regret.
On the morning of that day, a reporter visited the city's Zhaofeng Flower, Bird and Fish Market and learned that in recent times, flowers in many residents' homes had suffered cold damage and root rot. Many residents, eager to protect their flowers, had fallen into mistakes one after another. "The main reason residents' flowers have trouble surviving the winter is overwatering; in winter, flowers need more sun and less water." Manager Wang, who runs a flower business at the market, told the reporter that when faced with cold-damaged flowers, many residents first think of watering and fertilizing even more vigorously. Little do they know that blindly overdoing it will only make the flowers more cold-stricken or cause root rot.
Manager Wang said that in winter, flowers should be placed in the sun regularly; when the weather is clear and fine, they can be moved outside, and then moved back indoors at night. He suggested that generally, only after the average daily temperature has stayed above 10°C for 5 consecutive days is it suitable to move flowers outdoors.
Common types of biological pesticides for flowers
Biological pesticides for controlling jujube leaf-eating pests
Avoid pesticide spraying polluting the environment; big trees get a new type of "face mask" for winter
Pesticides banned or to be used with caution on flowers and fruit trees
Teach you to quickly make flower pesticides
Pesticides banned on flowers and fruit trees
Key points for winter care of courtyard flowers
Key points for winter care of courtyard flowers
(1) Winter climate characteristics. China is the country with the most prominent monsoon climate characteristics in the world, and most regions are affected by monsoons, so the seasonal changes are very obvious. East China is located in two climate zones, the warm temperate zone and the subtropical zone, with a large latitudinal span from north to south (more than 12 degrees), and the temperature changes noticeably throughout the year, with the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter being relatively distinct. Here, summer is affected by a maritime climate, with southeasterly winds prevailing and abundant rain, while winter is affected by cold air currents from Siberia, with northerly winds prevailing, dry conditions, and continuous cold waves. The average temperature in the coldest month of the year is below 0°C, while in areas south of the Huai River it is above 0°C. Annual rainfall is around 1000 mm, and it is concentrated in summer, with relatively little rain in winter, and more rain in the south than in the north.
The winter referred to here is the winter of East China, beginning in late November each year and lasting until early February of the following year. This season is the coldest period of the whole year. And from late December each year to January of the following year is again the coldest stretch within winter, when the lowest temperature reaches about -14 to -12°C. The farming proverb "In the first nine and second nine, hands stay out of sight; in the third nine and fourth nine, walk on ice" refers to this period.
In areas such as Jiangsu, Anhui and Shanghai, because the terrain is relatively low and flat, it is extremely easy to be hit by cold waves in winter. For flower growers, this increases the difficulty of getting home-grown flowers safely through the winter, especially warmth-loving flowers and foliage plants. Flowers native to tropical and subtropical regions are even more susceptible to cold damage when overwintered. The winter care and management of indoor flowers is a matter of great concern to every family that loves and grows flowers.
(2) The impact of winter climate on flowers. Temperature is an important condition for flower cultivation and often plays a key role in the survival of various flowers. It can also be said that even if other conditions are suitable, without suitable temperature, flowers cannot even survive. Some flowers do not have temperature problems in their place of origin or in warm seasons, but if they are moved elsewhere or the weather turns cold, the temperature must be adjusted in a timely manner and cold-protection measures must be taken. Why are some flowers particularly strong in cold resistance while others are very poor? Because when winter comes, cold-tolerant flowers accumulate large amounts of soluble sugar in their cells, the concentration of cell sap increases, osmotic pressure rises, and the freezing point drops, so they can resist low-temperature invasion in the cold winter. Tropical flowers are just the opposite: when the ambient temperature drops, their cells cannot immediately accumulate large amounts of soluble sugar, so they are extremely easily cold-injured or even killed by freezing. Different flowers have different temperature requirements in winter. To understand these differences, one must understand the temperature conditions in the places of origin of different flowers. The growth and development of flowers have their own patterns; generally, low-temperature-tolerant flowers cannot endure high-temperature environments, while high-temperature-tolerant flowers are also not suited to low-temperature environments. Through long-term cultivation, people have grasped some ecological characteristics of common flowers, usually summarized into 3 categories:
① High-temperature category: such as poinsettia, gloxinia, Brazilian wood, Aglaia odorata, croton, African violet, etc. These flowers are native to the tropics, and some only bloom under high-temperature conditions. The lowest temperature in their places of origin is not lower than 10°C, so in East China the minimum indoor temperature in winter should not be lower than 12°C.
② Medium-temperature category: such as white orchid, jasmine, hibiscus, cyclamen, calla lily, florist's cineraria, etc. These flowers are all cultivated outdoors in courtyards in the Guangzhou area. The lowest temperature in the Guangzhou area in a year is around 1°C, so in East China the minimum indoor temperature in winter should not be lower than 5°C.
③ Low-temperature category: such as osmanthus, kumquat, plum, pomegranate, etc. These flowers are all cultivated in courtyards in central China and southern East China, where the lowest winter temperature is around 0°C, so in East China the minimum indoor temperature in winter should not be lower than 0°C.
(3) Winter management of home-grown flowers. In East China, when winter arrives, it is very important to take necessary freeze-prevention and warmth-preserving measures for some potted flowers native to the tropics and subtropics. For example, many families like to grow Aglaia odorata, clivia, Chloranthus, hibiscus, rubber tree, Brazilian wood, cyclamen, gloxinia, jasmine, etc., as well as succulent flowers; in late autumn they must all be gradually moved indoors or into warm sheds. How can you ensure that home-grown southern flowers safely overwinter? The following measures can be taken:
First, understand the characteristics of the flowers and arrange them by category. The winter care of potted flowers should be handled differently according to the growth characteristics of the flowers and their temperature requirements. In winter, the outside temperature is relatively low, and most flowers cultivated indoors are in a dormant or slow-growing semi-dormant state. For flowers that go dormant in the open ground, such as tree peony, chrysanthemum, pomegranate, Chinese rose, crabapple, plum, etc., they can be placed on a balcony, in front of a ground-floor window, or in a cooler indoor spot, and generally they can overwinter naturally; if a cold wave hits, they can be covered with plastic film for warmth, and the film can be removed after the cold wave passes. For flowers that are in a semi-dormant state in winter, such as ornamental citrus, rhododendron, clivia, camellia, cyclamen, rubber tree, schefflera, etc., generally keeping the room temperature above 5°C allows them to overwinter safely. For flowers that continue growing in winter, such as cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, asparagus fern, etc., generally keeping the room temperature at 8-10°C allows them to overwinter naturally; if a cold wave hits, warmth-preserving measures must be taken. For a small number of flowers from the tropics and flowers that need to be cultivated in winter for holiday display, such as tropical orchids, poinsettia, pothos, Brazilian wood, Aglaia odorata, tuberous begonia, gloxinia, etc., they need to overwinter at a room temperature above 15°C. In East China, most households generally do not have heating facilities. To get home-grown tropical flowers safely through the winter, indoor heating or other measures are needed to raise the room temperature.
Second, carry out regular inspections and water moderately. Because various flowers have different requirements for temperature, moisture and light in winter, regular inspections are needed, and timely and moderate replenishment of water is one of the important guarantees for safe overwintering. Watering indoor flowers should also follow the principle of watering potted flowers by alternating dry and wet periods, and in terms of watering time, grasp the principle of watering on sunny days and not on cloudy days, and watering at noon rather than in the morning or evening. The specific amount of water should be flexibly controlled according to the category of flower, the growth stage and water requirement, the texture of the flowerpot, etc., generally watering once every 7-10 days. In addition, you must learn to water by observing the flowers. So-called observing the flowers means grasping the characteristics of the flowers and not applying one uniform rule. For moisture-loving flowers such as umbrella plant, spider plant, Monstera deliciosa, schefflera, etc., water more; for drought-tolerant flowers such as Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, sago palm, cactus types, etc., water less; for evergreen foliage flowers, you can water by spraying the leaf surface.
Third, preserve warmth and prevent cold according to category, and increase light. Temperature management during the overwintering period of potted flowers should be handled differently according to the growth state of the flowers and their different temperature requirements. If they are kept under the same temperature conditions, it is inevitable that some flowers will adapt and grow well, while others will not adapt and grow poorly. If high-temperature flowers are placed in a low-temperature environment, they will suffer cold damage or even be killed by freezing. However, if some low-temperature-loving flowers are placed in a high-temperature environment, it will affect their growth the following year, and this point is often overlooked. If low-temperature-loving flowers are kept in a high-temperature environment for a long time in winter, they will consume too many nutrients and this will affect their growth and flowering the next year. Therefore, when cultivating potted flowers indoors in winter, they must be treated differently according to their different temperature requirements. Families with the conditions can divide the flowers they grow into 3 categories: low-temperature, medium-temperature and high-temperature flowers. Place low-temperature flowers in a north-facing room, but they need to be moved regularly to a sunny room to get some sun; place medium-temperature flowers in a south-facing room or an enclosed balcony, and if a cold wave hits, appropriate warmth-preserving measures are still needed; high-temperature flowers not only need to be placed in a south-facing room, but also need supplemental heating, keeping the indoor temperature above 12°C.
① Winter cold protection for indoor potted flowers: Most potted flowers are not native to the local area and are mainly tropical and subtropical evergreen flowers. Because they do not adapt to the natural conditions of their adopted location, they need to be moved indoors or into a greenhouse for care in winter. As far as East China is concerned, from north to south, the time for moving them into the greenhouse differs slightly: in the Huaibei area it is about mid-to-late October, in the Nanjing area it is mid-November, and in mid-to-late April of the following year they are gradually moved outdoors.
During the overwintering period of potted flowers, suitable environmental conditions for overwintering should be created according to the growth habits of the flowers and the different requirements of various flowers, which still involves factors such as temperature, humidity, light and air.
The first issue is temperature, which should be handled differently according to the different temperature requirements of flowers and trees. In winter, the outside temperature is relatively low, and most flowers cultivated in a cold room are in a dormant or slow-growing semi-dormant state. For flowers that go dormant in winter, such as Chinese rose, chrysanthemum, tree peony, hydrangea, etc., generally placing them in a cold room at 3-5°C allows them to overwinter safely. For flowers that are in a semi-dormant state in winter, such as ornamental citrus, rhododendron, gardenia, plum blossom, clivia, crinum lily, camellia, etc., although their temperature requirements are slightly higher, generally placing them in a cold greenhouse below 5°C also allows them to overwinter safely. Such temperature conditions can basically be met in areas south of the Huai River usually without heating. However, for flowers that can continue growing in winter, such as wax begonia, cineraria, Aglaia odorata, asparagus fern, Christmas cactus, etc., they should generally be placed in a greenhouse at 8-10°C or above, which requires indoor heating or warming facilities. For a small number of flowers from the tropics and flowers that need to be cultivated in winter for holiday display, such as tropical orchids, poinsettia, cyclamen, tuberous begonia, Monstera deliciosa, etc., a temperature of 15-17°C or above should be provided. In areas south of the Huai River, there is generally no heating indoors in winter, so flowers must be placed in a room with dedicated warming facilities or in a south-facing cold room.
The level of room temperature during the overwintering period has a relatively large impact on potted flowers. For example, warmth-loving flowers such as jasmine, poinsettia, Aglaia odorata, croton, etc., if placed in a cold environment with room temperature close to 0°C, will be on the verge of death before long; if placed in a relatively cold environment below 10°C, they will enter a semi-dormant state with stagnant growth and yellowing leaves and withered branches; if placed in a relatively warm environment around 15°C, they will barely sprout and unfold leaves, growing slowly, but cannot form buds and bloom.
Once potted flowers are brought indoors, attention must also be paid to cold protection. The room where potted flowers are placed should have good warmth retention and cold insulation capacity, and flowers with the same warmth-loving habits should be placed in places with similar temperatures. For cold-tolerant flowers in a dormant state, they can be placed in a cooler corner of the room to let them remain dormant; for warmth-loving evergreen flowers or those still growing in winter, they should be placed as close as possible to a south window, where sunlight is relatively abundant and the temperature is usually higher. Generally, non-cold-tolerant evergreen woody flowers must not be placed near windows and doors that are frequently opened, to avoid cold wind invasion causing the plants to freeze, wither and lose leaves, or even die. Entering the cold winter month of December, use paper strips or soft foam plastic strips to seal door and window gaps against the wind, and at night add door curtains and window curtains to the room where potted flowers are placed, so that the indoor temperature is at least 3-4°C higher than outside. Usually, pay close attention to changes in indoor and outdoor temperatures to avoid temperature losing control and causing undue harm to the flowers. For flowers that truly have difficulty overwintering in a cold room, the following methods can be used:
Make a flower warmth-preserving cover: For Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, etc., you can first use wire to form an arched ring support along the rim of the pot, then use plastic film to cover the plant together with the pot. If the weather is especially cold, double-layer film can be used to cover the flowers. This method is simple and easy to carry out, has a notable warmth-preserving effect, and can enhance the flowers' cold resistance. However, several small holes should be left in the plastic cover to facilitate ventilation and air exchange. In addition, the leaves of the flowers should not be close to the covering bag; if the room temperature is too low, the potted flowers still need to be moved to a warmer place to avoid cold damage.
Use nested pots for warmth: For some flowers, such as Aglaia odorata, clivia, Chloranthus, etc., an outer pot can be added outside or below the pot to maintain temperature. The specific method is: use a slightly larger flowerpot, fill it with some warmth-preserving material or soil, and embed the pot containing the flower into the large pot; you can also stack the potted flower on top of a flowerpot with soil so that the potted flower is off the ground. This method can also provide a warmth-preserving effect.
Self-made incubator method: The volume of the incubator can be determined according to the size and number of flowers to be placed, and its front and two sides should be made as movable doors that can be opened and closed. The box can be divided into upper and lower compartments, and the partition layer and shelf board should use wire mesh panels to facilitate heat rising upward. Two electric lamps should be installed at the bottom of the box, and the wattage of the bulbs depends on the volume inside the box; generally it is suitable to maintain the box temperature above 15°C. Because humidity will drop after the temperature inside the box rises, a small cup of water should be placed between the two lamps to maintain humidity. In order to allow the flowers in the box to use natural light, the movable doors are best made with transparent glass; if conditions permit, artificial lighting lamps can also be installed to increase the amount of light. This method costs a lot and has high expenses, so a simple small greenhouse made of plastic film can also be used instead.
In addition to the above warmth-preserving methods, indoor potted flowers should also be inspected frequently. If it is found that the plant's growth is deteriorating or symptoms of freezing appear, remedial measures should be taken as soon as possible. Some people move frozen potted flowers next to the stove to warm them, and others move them outdoors to get sun; these practices are all wrong. The correct method is: first place them in a slightly warm room and let them slowly recover, then gradually raise the temperature, but do not water at will; if watering is necessary, it must be done at noon when the temperature is relatively high, and cold water must not be used directly to water the flowers.
Potted flowers need cold protection in winter and also in spring, especially warmth-loving flowers such as Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine and poinsettia. Cold damage often does not occur in winter when the temperature is lowest, but mostly appears in early spring when the temperature begins to rise again. The reason is: as flowers move from a dormant state into a state of growth and sprouting, due to their own physiological processes, they will quickly lose their resistance and tolerance to low-temperature cold damage. In early spring, the weather is changeable; apart from strong winds and dryness, temperature rises and falls are also unstable, hence the saying "spring has a child's face, changing three times a day." Especially when a cold wave passes, within 24 hours the temperature can suddenly drop by 5-8°C or more. After most flowers have been cultivated indoors through the long winter, the plants are already very weak and have poor adaptability, but at this time people think spring has arrived and relax their vigilance against bad weather, moving the flowers out of the room too early. If they then encounter late frost, a cold wave or an invasion of cold air, even if the temperature is not too low, the flowers will suffer cold damage because they cannot adapt to changes in the external environment. Therefore, experienced flower growers all understand the principle that potted flowers should not be moved out in spring too early.
Before potted flowers are moved out of the room, indoor ventilation should be strengthened. You can first open the doors and windows during the day when the temperature is relatively high, and close them at night. Later, as the temperature rises, gradually extend the time the doors and windows are open, lower the indoor temperature, narrow the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, and gradually improve the potted flowers' ability to adapt to the outdoor environment. After a period of adaptive training, overwintered potted flowers can gradually reduce their care time indoors and be safely moved out at the proper time. The specific time for moving potted flowers out depends on the cold resistance of each type of flower, in order: for example, osmanthus, Chinese rose, plum, etc., can be moved out when the average daily temperature reaches about 10°C, while flowers such as Aglaia odorata, hibiscus, jasmine, etc., should be moved out later; after the last cold wave has passed and the average daily temperature has stabilized at around 15°C, it is much safer to move them outdoors.
② Winter cold protection for balcony flowers: The population density of modern cities is increasing, and multi-story and high-rise buildings with complete functions provide people with a comfortable living environment. Adapting to local conditions and using balconies to grow flowers can give people aesthetic enjoyment. Moreover, balcony flowers along the streets directly form a landscape line of the city, and they are beneficial for reducing noise, preventing pollution, adding interest to daily life, and purifying and beautifying the city.
Here we mainly discuss some flower-growing knowledge about balcony flowers in winter. Modern residential balconies are of 2 types: one is enclosed at the time of construction, such as most high-rise buildings and a small number of multi-story buildings; the other is not enclosed, such as most multi-story buildings, which still have open balconies.
Cold protection for flowers on enclosed balconies: In winter, an enclosed balcony can play the role of a greenhouse and has a certain warmth-preserving and warming effect. Some warmth-loving medium-temperature flowers cannot safely overwinter outdoors, but on an enclosed balcony they are basically not damaged by cold. Therefore, plants such as asparagus fern, fuchsia, wax begonia, clivia, Christmas cactus, epiphyllum, rhododendron, cyclamen, spider plant, banana shrub, sago palm and some foliage plants can all overwinter safely when placed on an enclosed balcony.
Cold protection for flowers on open balconies: Open balconies have fast air circulation, high evaporation, and low relative air humidity. In winter, because northerly winds prevail and the wind force is also relatively strong, whether it is a north balcony or a south balcony, even flower varieties that can usually overwinter in the open ground locally still need appropriate cold protection on an open balcony, especially in areas north of the Yangtze River. South balconies of multi-story buildings are mostly open; because they are sheltered from the wind and face the sun, cold damage or chilling injury to flowers is far less prominent and serious than on north balconies, so in winter flowers are generally placed on south balconies to overwinter. Some relatively cold-tolerant flowers need only slight management on a south balcony and can usually get through winter safely, such as woody types like Chinese rose, nandina, banana shrub, gardenia, dwarf peach, winter jasmine, wintersweet, crabapple, osmanthus, pomegranate, plum blossom, tree peony, kumquat, etc., and herbaceous and perennial types such as chrysanthemum, tuberose, tulip, orchid, canna, amaryllis, etc. However, open balconies have strong winds and low air humidity, and the pot soil dries out extremely easily, so the flower varieties chosen must be able to adapt to this environment; they must be drought-tolerant and low-temperature-tolerant, and close attention must be paid to changes in the dryness and wetness of the pot soil. Watering too frequently is not acceptable, and not watering at all is also not acceptable. Some varieties in a dormant state can be watered less; some evergreen varieties can be watered somewhat more often, and water can also be sprayed on the leaf surface regularly. Bulbous, tuberous and perennial flowers are relatively drought-tolerant and can be watered less, such as amaryllis, tulip, canna, iris, hyacinth orchid, tuberose, peony, Japanese sacred bamboo, lucky bamboo, Chinese pink, chrysanthemum, etc. When a cold wave hits, preventive measures are still needed; a simple temporary warmth-preserving frame can be set up on the balcony, covered with plastic film on the outside, and in areas north of the Yangtze River, double-layer plastic film can be used. A plastic film cover can also be used to cover the entire potted flower to achieve warmth preservation and cold protection. In addition, some warmth-loving flowers can be temporarily moved indoors to prevent cold damage.
③ Winter cold protection for courtyard flowers: Some families with courtyards like to grow flowers and grass in the courtyard, but some varieties introduced from the south have poor cold resistance, and they also face the problem of winter cold protection.
Generally speaking, annual and biennial herbaceous flowers, perennial flowers and some flowering trees and shrubs cultivated in the open ground have relatively strong adaptability, such as chrysanthemum, petunia, stock, red-flowered oxalis, daylily, tree peony, Japanese quince, Chinese rose, etc., but there are also some flowers such as Dahlia, canna, banana shrub, banana, osmanthus, etc., which, although they have a certain cold resistance, are not tolerant of low temperatures. In areas north of the Yangtze River, protection still needs to be strengthened in winter to ensure that the flowers overwinter safely. The following methods are often used for cold protection of open-ground flowers:
The 1st method, careful management to enhance the flowers' own cold resistance: When autumn arrives and the weather gradually turns cool, flowers enter the late growth stage. At this time, nitrogen fertilizer application should be controlled, more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied, and watering should be moderated, so that the plants grow robustly and enhance their resistance to cold. After entering the winter dormant period, one intertillage and fertilization can be carried out, and barnyard manure, night soil or cake fertilizer, etc., can be applied to increase the concentration of the soil solution and enhance the cold resistance of open-ground flowers.
Some perennial flowers and overwintering herbaceous flowers, such as peony, canna, Dahlia, tulip, edgeworthia, etc., are prone to cold damage when overwintering naturally in areas north of the Huai River. If a cold wave comes, materials such as fallen leaves, rice straw, straw mats or plastic film can be spread on the ground at the root zone of the flowers. This method is simple, effective, and very commonly used, and it can be removed after the late frost.
The 2nd method, earthing up and mounding soil for winter freeze protection: Some flowers, when winter comes, have all their aboveground parts dormant, with only the roots still growing slowly, such as tree peony, hydrangea, cotton rose, etc. Soil can be mounded around the root area of the flowers to form a small mound. When the plants begin to sprout in spring, the mounded soil can be opened up.
The 3rd method, wrapping with warmth-preserving materials for cold protection and overwintering: For some larger ornamental flowering trees, because the tree body is relatively large and cannot be pressed down and buried or covered, methods such as wrapping with grass, wrapping with paper, and covering with plastic film can be used for cold protection. For flowering trees with relatively strong cold tolerance but that are afraid of cold wind, or that have just been planted, a windbreak can be set up, that is, using reed mats and other materials to build windbreaks on the west and north sides of the flowering trees. This method is often used for cold protection when planting cedars in areas north of the Huai River.
(4) Winter water management for flowers. For home flower growing, how to water flowers, whether to fertilize, and whether propagation can succeed are all issues of concern to home flower growers. Below is a brief introduction to the water management of potted flowers in winter.
① Watering flowers in winter: For home flower growers, watering is one of the most frequent and most important care tasks, and winter watering is likewise a key task related to whether flowers can safely overwinter. People often attribute flower deaths caused by improper watering to improper warmth preservation, but in fact many household flowers die in winter because of too much water.
Home flower growers should know that winter is the dormant period for flowers. If the pot soil remains in a high-moisture state for a long time, it will inevitably cause root rot. Therefore, attention must be paid to watering time, watering amount and watering method, etc.
Watering time and water amount for flowers in winter: For ground-planted flowers, because the root system is relatively well developed, generally no watering is needed in winter. After leaf fall and before the ground freezes, water thoroughly, and then it can be left alone for the whole winter.
For potted flowers, during the transition from autumn to winter, because sunlight weakens and the temperature gradually drops, growth slows down. At this time, leaf transpiration and soil surface evaporation decrease accordingly, and in the north most potted flowers are moved indoors to overwinter. Overall, the pot soil should mainly be on the dry side, maintaining about 30% humidity, that is, the pot soil just needs to be moist. Special attention should be paid to the amount of watering from December to January of the following year, because this period is the colder time of winter in North China. If water is not strictly controlled, it will not only weaken the flowers' cold resistance, but the flowers will also be extremely prone to death. If the pot soil truly needs watering, generally watering once every 1-2 weeks can meet the need. For the few with high water requirements, such as foliage plants, water once every 4-5 days, and absolutely do not water too frequently. Usually, more water can be sprayed on the leaf surface to reduce the number of times the pot soil is watered. Some home flower growers think the flower is short of water as soon as they see the surface of the pot soil looking a bit dry. In fact, in winter, this situation is not a problem, because although the surface of the pot soil looks a bit dry, the deeper soil is still moist. Flowers need very little water in winter; as long as the pot soil has a certain humidity, the flowers will not die. For larger plants, because they themselves need more water and have relatively strong stress resistance, there is not much problem if they are watered too much. For small plants, especially succulent flowers, water must be strictly controlled, and you must wait until the pot soil is completely dry before watering. In short, watering flowers in winter should tend toward dry rather than wet, mainly by spraying the leaf surface, minimizing watering of the pot soil, so as to keep the pot soil on the dry side for a long time.
② Water temperature and methods for watering flowers in winter: The water temperature for watering flowers in winter is particular. Generally speaking, it is enough for it to be a few degrees Celsius higher than the soil temperature. The usual practice is to store water for watering flowers in an open container in advance, and use it when the water temperature, air temperature and soil temperature differ little, or it can be mixed with warm water. For evergreen potted flowers, warm water above 10°C and below 15°C can be sprayed on the leaf surface, which both achieves the purpose of watering and prevents the harm of dry freezing to the flowers. If cold water is used to water flowers in a low-temperature environment, the low air temperature and low water temperature will aggravate the harm to potted flowers. Flowers need little water in winter, but that does not mean they do not need water. In principle, water when dry, and water thoroughly at one time when watering.
When watering in winter, different watering methods can be used according to different flowers:
The soaking-pot method: Immerse the potted flower together with the pot in water, let the water slowly seep in along the hole at the bottom of the pot, and when the surface soil looks moist, take the potted flower out. This method can make the soil absorb water fully and is relatively ideal. Moisture-loving flowers such as umbrella plant and calla lily have relatively high water requirements and can use this method. Other flowers should use the soaking-pot method as little as possible in winter.
The spraying method: According to the actual needs of the flowers, supply water in a planned way, but when spraying, stop when seepage is seen at the bottom of the pot.
The fine-hole mist spraying method: Use a fine-hole spray can to make water droplets into mist and spray it on the leaf surface of flowers, such as asparagus fern, spider plant, florist's cineraria, schefflera, rubber tree, cineraria, clivia, etc. The mist spraying method can both give the leaf surface and the area around the pot relatively high humidity and keep the leaf surface clean.
Selection of water quality for watering flowers in winter: For water used to irrigate flowers, natural water such as river water and pond water is generally better. Tap water contains bleaching powder, liquid chlorine, alum, etc., and long-term use will make the pot soil alkaline and hardened, so it is best to store it in a vat or other container for 2 days before use. Turbid water is not suitable for watering flowers, and water containing salt or alkali is also not suitable for watering flowers.
(5) Winter diseases and insect pests of flowers. There are generally fewer diseases and insect pests in winter, but some diseases and insect pests will also appear in rooms with heating or higher temperatures. This not only affects the healthy growth of flowers but also affects their ornamental value, so attention must be paid to the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests. Generally, households mainly rely on prevention, maintaining suitable temperature and humidity, good indoor ventilation, and suitable soil dryness and wetness; when sowing, the soil must be disinfected, and when selecting robust seeds or introducing flower seedlings, they must not carry diseases or insect pests. These are all effective measures to prevent diseases and insect pests.
Common diseases include powdery mildew, anthracnose, root rot, rust, root nodule disease, leaf spot, brown spot and chlorosis, etc. Diseases may occur throughout the entire growth period of flowers, but they are most common in the high-temperature, rainy season from June to August, and a small number of diseases and insect pests also occur in winter.