How to propagate the flame tree by sowing? Master these key points
The flame tree, also known as the phoenix flower, is an ornamental flowering plant in the legume family, genus Delonix, and mature plants can reach up to 20 m tall. The flame tree is native to Madagascar and is commonly planted throughout the world's tropical regions, mainly cultivated in China's Yunnan, Guangxi, Guangdong, Fujian, Taiwan, China and other provinces.
The flame tree (detailed introduction), also known as the phoenix flower, is an ornamental flowering plant in the legume family, genus Delonix, and mature plants can reach up to 20 m tall. The flame tree is native to Madagascar and is commonly planted throughout the world's tropical regions, mainly cultivated in China's Yunnan, Guangxi, Guangdong, Fujian, Taiwan, China and other provinces.
Flame tree (detailed introduction)
The flame tree is generally propagated by sowing. After the fruit ripens, collect it and dry it in the sun; the pods split open naturally, or they can be tapped with a wooden stick so the seeds fall out. The 1000-seed weight is 480-520 g. Store the seeds in burlap sacks in a dry, cool, ventilated place; viability is retained for more than 1 year. The seed coat is dense and hard, so before sowing soak the seeds in hot water at 80°C equal to 2 times the seed volume for 24 h (allowing it to cool naturally), then rinse with clean water, then soak again in hot water at 50°C for 24 h and rinse. Broadcast sow on the seedbed, cover with 0.5-1 cm of soil, keep warm, water once in the morning and once in the evening, and germination begins in about 7-10 days. When the seedlings reach 8-10 cm tall, transplant them to separate beds, and trim some branches and leaves when transplanting. Seedlings are relatively sensitive to frost; compound fertilizer can be applied early, with less nitrogen fertilizer, and fertilization should stop after the beginning of autumn. Entering winter, if the leaves have not yet fallen, they can be cut off manually, and plastic film can be used for covering or individual plants can be wrapped to prevent frost.
Azalea Rhododendron Azalea illustrated guide: how to grow azalea / how to propagate azalea
Azalea profileAzalea Rhododendron
Azalea cultivation methods and precautions Azalea introduction
Azalea, namely the transliteration of the Korean word "???", also known as wugonghua, yingshanhong, jianye dujuan, and Xing'an rhododendron, mainly grows on hillsides, grasslands, shrublands and other places. It is actually Rhododendron mucronulatum of the Ericaceae family, that is, China's Xing'an rhododendron; its original meaning is a flower that blooms for a long time.
Azalea is the first flower to bloom in the fields. The Korean people regard azalea as the messenger of spring and a symbol of steadfastness, beauty, good fortune and happiness. It is the national flower of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea, and it is also the prefectural flower of China's Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture and the city flower of Yanji. The flower language of azalea is a flower that blooms for a long time. Koreans use it to symbolize lasting prosperity, joy and happiness.
Morphological characteristics of azalea
Evergreen shrub, up to 2 m tall, bark light gray, slightly exfoliating. Branchlets slender, much branched, all parts of the plant mostly with scattered white glandular scales. Simple leaves alternate, ovate-lanceolate, 3-7 cm long, 1.5-3.5 cm wide, apex acute, base cuneate, both surfaces hairless and only with glandular scales. Leaf margin entire, occasionally coarse hairs at the leaf base, with short petioles, flowering before leaves in early spring, flowers bisexual, solitary or several at the branch tips, corolla broadly funnel-shaped, deep red or light purple, stamens 10, 5 long and 5 short, anthers purple. Style longer than stamens and extending beyond the corolla, pedicels and calyx both with white glandular scales. Capsule short-cylindrical, dark brown, densely covered with glandular scales, splitting into 5 valves when ripe, flowering April-May, fruit ripening September-October.
Root: The root system of rhododendron is distributed very shallowly, prefers acidic soil, and can live symbiotically with fungi in the soil; these symbiotic fungi can decompose organic matter for the rhododendron to use.
Stem: Branches smooth, with coarse hairs or glandular hairs.
Leaves: Leaf shape variable, including elliptic, ovate, lanceolate, obovate, etc., entire; some have hairs of varying density, while others are smooth and hairless, leaves solitary without stipules, mostly alternate; evergreen or a few deciduous.
Flowers: The number of stamens is the same as the corolla lobes or 2 times more, filaments free, anthers 2-celled, apex tail-like, dehiscing by apical pores, calyx 4-7 lobed, persistent, corolla 4-7 lobed; most are 5-lobed, flowers bisexual, solitary; raceme or panicle; corolla funnel-shaped or broadly campanulate, ovary superior, several locules, ovules numerous, style solitary.
Fruit: The fruit is a capsule.
Seeds: Seeds relatively small, with fleshy endosperm and an upright embryo, sometimes winged.
Pistil: Also called the large pistil, it is the female organ of the flower, usually located in the center of the flower, composed of three parts: the ovary, style and stigma.
Stigma: At the tip of the style, it is the place where pollination occurs. Some stigmas are relatively rough and secrete sticky fluid so that pollen can adhere to them.
Style: Born on the upper part of the ovary, it is the passage for pollen from the stigma to the ovary.
Ovary: It is the swollen part at the base of the pistil, often flask-shaped. The ovary of rhododendron usually has 5 or 10 small locules, and the many ovules inside will develop into seeds once fertilized.
Stamens: Also called the small stamens, they are the male organs of the flower, composed of anthers and filaments. Generally, rhododendrons usually have 5 or 10 stamens, and some have as many as 25.
Anther: Contains many pollen grains inside. The upper end of the anther splits open, and the pollen falls out, which can be spread by insects.
Filament: Its function is to support the anther. Generally, rhododendron filaments are slender; some have very smooth surfaces, and some have soft hairs.
Calyx: Usually composed of several small sepals. When the flower bud emerges, it surrounds it and can protect the petals, stamens and pistil. The calyx of rhododendron has five parts.
Corolla: Composed of petals. Rhododendron usually has five petals, joined together at the base, belonging to gamopetalous flowers.
Ecological habits of azalea
The genus Rhododendron has many species and great differences in habits, but most species are produced in high-altitude areas; they like cool, humid climates and dislike extreme heat and dryness. They require acidic soil rich in humus, loose, moist, with a pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. Some species and horticultural cultivars have strong adaptability, tolerate drought and poor soil, and can also grow in soil with a pH value between 7 and 8. However, they grow poorly in heavy or poorly aerated soil.
Rhododendrons have certain light requirements, but do not tolerate exposure to strong sun. In summer and autumn, deciduous trees or shade sheds should be used to block the scorching sun, and the ground should often be sprayed with water. Rhododendrons generally send out new shoots in spring and autumn, mainly spring shoots. The most suitable growth temperature is 15-20°C; when the temperature exceeds 30°C or falls below 5°C, growth stagnates.
There is a short dormant period in winter, after which, as the temperature rises, the flower buds gradually swell. Generally, open-field cultivation blooms from March to May, while in high-altitude areas it blooms as late as July to August. In the north, it is cultivated in greenhouses. It can bloom in January to February. Rhododendrons tolerate pruning, and latent buds germinate very easily after being stimulated, which can be used to control tree shape and rejuvenate the plant. Generally, pruning is carried out before May; the new shoots produced can all form flower buds in the same year, while pruning too late affects flowering. Generally, new shoots that sprout around the Beginning of Autumn can still lignify. If new shoots form too late, they are prone to frost damage in winter.
Cultivation techniques of azalea: planting
The best flowerpots are clay pots with good air permeability, followed by purple clay pots, with glazed pots and porcelain pots being the worst. When potting, attention should be paid to choosing the size of the flowerpot, and never use a large pot for a small seedling. If the pot is too large, the potting soil will not dry for a long time, aeration will be poor, and at the same time the root system is not suitable to reach the pot wall, affecting the development of the seedling. Generally, for cuttings, a clay pot with a diameter of about 10 cm can be chosen, and after one year it can be moved into a flowerpot of about 15 cm.
When potting, attention should be paid to making a drainage layer, using tiles to cover the drainage holes, then putting in 1/3 coarse soil particles and adding a little fine soil. Then place the rhododendron seedling in, holding the seedling upright with one hand and filling soil into the pot with the other. When filling soil, note that it can only be filled to 2 cm below the pot rim, not too full, to facilitate later watering. Finally, press the soil firmly around the pot and shake the flowerpot to make the pot surface level. After planting, use a watering can to water thoroughly once. Note that when watering, it must be watered until water seeps out from the bottom of the pot. If watering is not thorough and only the surface layer is moistened while the inner layer is not, the potted flower will dry out and die.
Generally, repot every 3-4 years. The time for repotting is preferably before the rhododendrons bloom in March or in September; plants entering full bloom are suitable for repotting after flowering. When repotting, care should be taken not to remove too much old soil or damage the root system, otherwise growth and flowering will be affected. When repotting, some newly prepared acidic soil can be added, and water thoroughly, then place it in a cool place for about 1 week before gradually exposing it to sunlight.
Fertilization
Fertilization should be carried out according to the needs of rhododendrons at each growth stage. For example, before flowering, phosphate fertilizer should be applied once every 10 days for 2-3 consecutive times, which can make the flowers larger, the color brighter, the petals thicker and the flowering period longer. Fertilization should stop during the flowering period. After flowering, nitrogen fertilizer should be supplemented to help the plant recover and promote branch and leaf growth. In the high-temperature season of July-August, growth stagnates, so fertilization is not suitable. Before moving indoors in autumn, during the rhododendron's growth period, more phosphate fertilizer is needed, once every 7-10 days. After entering the dormant period in winter, fertilization stops.
When fertilizing rhododendrons, note: apply thin fertilizer frequently, and the fertilizer must be fully decomposed. Fertilization should be carried out in the evening of a sunny day when the potting soil is dry; at this time fertilization is safe and effective. On the morning of the next day after fertilizing, water once with clear water to dissolve the fertilizer in the soil and help the root system absorb it.
Watering
Watering rhododendrons should be determined according to weather changes and plant growth conditions. In general, the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet. In spring and autumn, water thoroughly once every 2-3 days. In summer, evaporation is high, so water once in the morning and once in the evening each day, and at the same time spray the leaf surfaces with clear water and sprinkle water on the ground around the flowerpot to increase air humidity. During continuous rainy days, drain accumulated water in the pot promptly to prevent root rot. After the Beginning of Autumn, the temperature gradually drops, and watering should be gradually reduced. After moving indoors in winter, the amount of watering should be controlled so that the potting soil remains slightly moist, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot. In winter, attention should also be paid to frequently rinsing the branches and leaves with clear water close to room temperature to prevent dust from soiling the leaves and affecting photosynthesis, and at the same time it can also reduce the chance of sooty mold.
Temperature and light
In the cultivation and management of potted rhododendrons in northern regions, temperature and light must be suitable. Generally, after Grain Rain (after the evening glow), move them outdoors and place them on a balcony or in a courtyard; at this time the sunlight is relatively soft, and only appropriate shading is needed around noon. After the beginning of summer, they must be moved under a shade shed or to a windowsill on the shaded side indoors, maintaining good ventilation. By late autumn, shading can be stopped to facilitate the plant's growth and maturation. Before the beginning of winter, move them indoors and place them in a place with ample sunlight; the winter room temperature should preferably be around 10°C. If the winter room temperature is too high, the plant's physiological activities strengthen, consuming nutrients, which will affect flowering and growth the following year.
Emergence of seedlings
Before emergence, keep the potting soil moist. Generally at 15-20°C, seedlings emerge in about 20 days, with a germination rate of 75-85%. After that, the covering can be removed, attention should be paid to ventilation, and the resistance of the seedlings should be improved. When dry, spray moist with a fine nozzle, and do not wash down the seedlings.
Within one month after cuttings are inserted, the focus is on shading and spraying water so that the cuttings remain fresh throughout. During heavy rain, avoid the impact of rainwater; during consecutive rainy days, pay attention to drainage, spray 1/1000 thiophanate to prevent black spot, and in the high-temperature season increase water spraying on the ground and leaf surfaces, paying attention to ventilation and cooling. Hairy azaleas, East azaleas and summer azaleas root quickly, in about 1 month; Western azaleas need 60-70 days. After rooting, the top sends out shoots; if flower buds form, they should be removed. After September, reduce shading so that the seedlings gradually become sturdy, and in October thin fertilizer can be applied. In the latter part of the month, they can be potted. If an electronic leaf automatic misting device is installed on the cutting bed, and the medium uses vermiculite or perlite, then shading is not needed. Under full sun, roots form in more than 20 days, with a survival rate above 95%, and they can be transplanted in 2 months.
Place under a shade shed, avoiding direct sunlight. Check whether there are water droplets in the bag; if not, open it and spray the scion moist, then tie it tightly again. If the scion does not wilt for 7 days, there is a good chance of success; after 2 months, remove the bag, and untie the binding the following spring.
Site
Cultivating Western azaleas requires two environments, indoor and outdoor: indoors is for winter cold protection, with the lowest temperature not below -2-3°C. Outdoors is for getting through the hot summer; in the Jiangnan region, they are kept outdoors from mid-April to early November, requiring the natural shade of deciduous trees or artificially built shade sheds to create a semi-shaded and cool growing environment. The ground should have a drainage slope, and flowerpots should be placed on boards.
Azalea cultivation methods
1. Environmental conditions
It is best to have both indoor and outdoor environments for cultivating rhododendrons. The indoor environment is used in winter. In the Yangtze River basin, as long as there is a certain amount of light and ventilation indoors, heating is generally not necessary. Winters in the north are extremely cold and dry, so cultivation in a medium-temperature (around 15°C) greenhouse is appropriate. Outdoor sites are used in summer and autumn; muddy ground is best, and cement ground should be avoided. The site should be spacious, ventilated and shady, with a shade shed built above, covered with reed curtains or using the shelter of natural tree shade, with a light transmittance of about 30% being appropriate. Avoid afternoon sun exposure; spray New High Lipid Film, which on the plant surface can prevent pathogen infection, improve resistance to natural disasters, increase photosynthesis intensity, and protect the seedlings so they grow strong.
2. Potting soil requirements
Rhododendrons prefer loose, highly permeable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus, with a pH value of 5.0-6.0. If clay or alkaline soil is used, hardly one in a hundred survives. Especially for summer azaleas and foreign azaleas, mountain soil is indispensable. Mountain soil also needs to be improved, and generally three kinds of prepared culture soil are used. (1) Mix 7 parts mountain soil, 1 part dried moss debris, 2 parts dried leaf mold, and 1 part dried fertilizer. (2) Layer and compost 3 parts mountain surface soil (topsoil), 3 parts horse manure, 3 parts fallen leaves and weeds, and 1 part human feces and urine, then sieve and set aside after 1-2 years. (3) Mix 3 parts mountain soil, 3 parts leaf mold, 4 parts garden soil, and 2 parts sandy soil, and add 50 grams of sesame paste residue and bone meal per pot.
3. Flowerpot selection
For flowerpots used to cultivate rhododendrons, depending on the purpose, generally two kinds are chosen: clay pots and purple clay pots. Clay pots have good air and water permeability, which is beneficial to root growth, and production units all use this kind of pot for cultivation. Shaped rhododendrons, especially those already styled, are generally planted in beautiful and elegant purple clay pots for indoor and outdoor display; purple clay pots have a fine texture, rich colors and beautiful shapes, and can double the ornamental value. Purple clay pots are not as permeable as clay pots, so when planting, broken tiles (old tiles) should be placed around the pot wall to facilitate drainage. The size of the selected pot should depend on the age of the plant. Generally, 4-6 year old plants use a 5-inch pot; 7-10 year old plants use a 6-inch pot; 11-15 year old plants use an 8-inch pot.
4. Improving water quality
For watering rhododendrons, rainwater is best, followed by river water and pond water. If tap water is used, it is best to store the water for 1-2 days to let the chlorine evaporate before use. When using it, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate and water once every 7-10 days during the growing season. Regular use ensures that the soil is acidic.
5. Fertilizer and water management
Rhododendrons prefer shade and moisture, and should not be too dry. More water is especially needed during the flowering period. In winter, rhododendrons have entered the dormant period and do not need much water; generally water once every 4-5 days, preferably around noon on a clear, warm day. Specifically, water appropriately according to the dryness of the potting soil. In March, rhododendrons send out roots and sprout, and water demand increases accordingly. Summer azaleas grow and develop slightly later, and the amount of watering should be less than that for spring azaleas. Generally, water appropriately once every 2 days in the morning. From April to June, rhododendrons bloom successively, and branches and leaves also begin to sprout, with relatively large water demand; generally water once every morning or evening. In the high-temperature, dry season from July to early September, water once in the morning and once in the evening, and the amount should not be too much, and at noon spray water on the leaf surfaces and ground to maintain a moist environment. From mid-September to November, the weather gradually turns cool, which is the adaptation period for rhododendron growth; to prevent autumn shoots from sprouting and enhance winter cold resistance, the amount of watering should be appropriately reduced. Generally, water once every other morning in the early morning and keep it moist. Rhododendrons relatively like fertilizer; generally, decomposed cake fertilizer, fish meal, broad bean or Chinese milk vetch, etc., after rotting, are mixed with water and poured, and human feces and urine should be avoided. From moving outdoors until before the flower buds open, apply thin fertilizer once every 10 days at a concentration of 15%, for a total of 2-3 times, to promote the old leaves turning green and new roots sprouting. After the flowers fade, in order to promote branch and leaf growth, fertilize 5-6 times from mid-May to early July. If it rains continuously, dry fertilizer can be applied. Before moving indoors, when rhododendron growth is about to stop, fertilize 1-2 times, and spray New High Lipid Film to retain fertilizer and moisture.
6. Outdoor shading
From before moving outdoors until before flowering, more sunlight is appropriate; during the flowering period, short-term shading is needed at noon, with a light transmittance of 60%; during the plum rain period from June to early July, which is exactly the period when rhododendrons send out leaves and branches, as much sunlight as possible should be given. But when encountering strong sunlight, shading should still be provided from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. to prevent scorching new leaves. From mid-July to early September, shade every day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. to prevent scorching sun exposure. After September, in the autumn growing period, the shading time can be shortened; generally shade from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and after October more sunlight is appropriate. Then carry out shaping, cutting off leggy branches, diseased and weak branches, deformed branches and damaged branches.
7. Shaping and pruning
Rhododendrons grow relatively slowly, and are generally allowed to grow naturally, with shaping only carried out after flowering, cutting off leggy branches, diseased and weak branches, deformed branches and damaged branches. After pruning, apply wound healing and antiseptic film to the wounds so they heal quickly.
Azalea propagation methods
Commonly propagated by sowing, cuttings and grafting, and also by layering and division.
Sowing
Evergreen rhododendrons are best sown as soon as collected, while deciduous rhododendrons can also store seeds until spring sowing the following year. At a temperature of 15-20°C, seedlings emerge in about 20 days. For cuttings, generally from May to June, select semi-lignified branches of the current year as cuttings; after insertion, set up a shed for shade, and under conditions of about 25°C, roots form in 1 month. Western azaleas root more slowly, needing about 60-70 days.
Grafting
Western azaleas are mostly propagated by this method, often by cleft grafting of tender branches. The grafting time is not restricted, and the rootstock is mostly 2-year-old hairy azalea, with a survival rate above 90%. Wild rhododendrons and the hairy azalea, East azalea and summer azalea among cultivated varieties can be potted or planted in the ground under shaded conditions. Western azaleas are all potted, and the culture soil is mostly black mountain soil; culture soil prepared with peat soil, Huangshan soil, leaf mold, pine needle soil and coal cinder, sawdust, etc., can be used as long as the pH value is between 5.5 and 7.0, drainage is good, and it is rich in humus. Potting is generally carried out in April or November. Rhododendron roots expand slowly; 1-2 year old plants should use a 3-inch pot; 3-4 year old plants use a 4-inch pot, repot once every 3-5 years, and at the same time trim the root system.
Watering
It should be flexibly controlled according to weather conditions, plant size, dryness and wetness of the potting soil, and growth and development needs. The water quality should not be alkaline. When using tap water, it is best to store it in a vat for 1-2 months; in mid-April it is moved outdoors, exactly at the peak growth period, with large water demand; during the plum rain season, prevent water accumulation; in the high-temperature season of July-August, evaporation is large, so water as soon as it dries, and at noon and in the evening also spray water on the ground and leaf surfaces to cool down; in early November it is moved indoors. If the room is heated, growth is still vigorous and water demand is still large, especially when flowering and sending out shoots, when even more water is needed; if the room is not heated, growth is slow, and watering once every 3-5 days is sufficient. Apply thin fertilizer frequently. For 2-4 year old seedlings, in order to accelerate plant shaping, pinching and bud removal are often used to promote new branches. After the plant is shaped, the main task is to cut off diseased branches, weak branches and overlapping, disordered branches, all mainly by thinning pruning.
Key propagation and cultivation points: can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, grafting and layering.
Azalea disease control
Disease and pest control: For the azalea lace bug (also known as the crowned lace bug), spray 40% dimethoate 1500x solution during the damage period, once every 7 days, for 3 consecutive times. The main control method for the shoot-tip leaf roller is manual capture and killing; larvae or pupae can also be killed by spraying 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 2000x solution or dichlorvos 1500x solution.
For red spider mites, 1000x dicofol solution can be used for control. For the azalea lace bug, 1500x dimethoate or dichlorvos can be used for control. The most common disease is brown spot, which can be controlled with 800x thiophanate or an equal-strength Bordeaux mixture.
The most common pests are red spider mites and the azalea lace bug. Red spider mites cause serious damage during the high-temperature, dry period from June to August, often causing leaves to turn yellow and fall off; they can be killed by spraying 1/1000 dicofol, once a week, for 3 consecutive times. From May to October there is damage by the azalea lace bug, which spreads faster in dry climates and can be killed by spraying 1/1500 dimethoate or dichlorvos. Brown spot is the most common disease, mainly occurring in the plum rain season; brown patches appear on the leaves, infecting in cycles, causing great harm, and it is the main cause of leaf fall. The control method is: before and after flowering, spray 1/800 thiophanate or an equal-strength Bordeaux mixture, pay attention to improving light conditions, strengthening ventilation, and burning diseased leaves at any time. Artificial pollination and hybridization is a conventional breeding method; varieties with well-developed pistils and high fruit-setting rates should be selected as the female parent, and pollen should be collected from varieties with special ornamental value in flower color and flower type. Pollen can be refrigerated in an ice bottle for long-distance transport. Pollination should preferably be carried out when the stigma secretes sticky fluid; to improve the success rate, repeated pollination 2-3 times should be carried out. Because the self-pollination rate is very low, emasculation in advance is unnecessary, and under cold climates without insect interference, bagging can also be omitted.
Azalea variety classification
The species commonly cultivated in China include: hairy azalea, summer azalea, Western azalea, Chinese azalea (Rhododendron molle), Rhododendron mucronulatum, Rhododendron ovatum and Rhododendron fortunei.
The genus Rhododendron has about 900 species, with about 850 species produced in Asia, of which China has about 530 species, distributed in all subregions north and south except **. New Guinea and Malaysia have about 280 species, almost all epiphytic. In addition, North America has 24 species, Europe has 9 species, and Oceania has 1 species. The genus Rhododendron has many species and great differences, including evergreen large trees, small trees, evergreen shrubs and deciduous shrubs.
Rhododendrons are divided into two major categories: deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous types have small leaves, while evergreen types have large leaves. Flower colors include red, purple, yellow, white, pink, blue and other colors. They like cool, humid conditions, tolerate cold, and mostly grow on hillsides, alpine meadows, forest edges, rock walls and swamps at an altitude of 1000-1400 m.
Rhododendron, also commonly called yingshanhong by the people, broadly refers to various red rhododendrons, describing how their brilliant red glow, like fire and flame, reddens the mountains. In fact, rhododendrons are not only red; in present-day plant taxonomy, "yingshanhong" is only treated as one type (including many cultivars). Yunnan Province in China alone has as many as nearly 300 species. China is the native place of rhododendrons, and Yunnan is their distribution center.
Yingshanhong is a common type of rhododendron, named because when it blooms it reddens the whole mountain. In Longlin, in Xijiang, Fenghuangshan, Zhuangkou, Lanshan and other mountainous areas at an altitude of more than 500 m in Huichang County, Ganzhou City, Jiangxi Province, it is distributed. Yingshanhong has long had the reputation of "king of woody flowers." Writers and scholars ancient and modern, Chinese and foreign, have written many beautiful essays and poems praising yingshanhong, such as a poem by Yang Wanli of the Song Dynasty: "Why must one look at spring wind in famous gardens? Along the way, mountain flowers do not fail you. Day after day the Jin River presents a brocade-like scene; the clear stream reflects yingshanhong upside down." This praises the plain and tenacious vitality of yingshanhong.
Climbing that lush Yantou Mountain, you will see fiery red yingshanhong among the green mountains and trees, magnificent as clouds and rosy mists, in clusters and clumps, blooming so warmly and brilliantly. Each flower is like red agate, standing gracefully in the wind, delicate and charming, with petals densely packed, stamens leaning against stamens, petals close to petals, nestling and complementing each other, attracting countless bees and butterflies fluttering about. Every flower is ethereal and subtle, poetic and picturesque, so beautiful it is hard to take in, making people linger and forget to return.
Rhododendrons are mostly shrubs and small trees 1-2 m tall, and there are also creeping rhododendrons and purple-backed rhododendrons only a few centimeters tall, prostrate on rocky ground, as well as large tree rhododendrons and giant rhododendrons several zhang tall with tens of thousands of flowers. The rhododendron's apex forms an umbel-like inflorescence, composed of several bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers, just like a full hydrangea. The leaves are mostly leathery, as large as loquat leaves and as small as fingernails; there is even a kind of pointed rhododendron whose leaves are as long as more than 70 cm and more than 20 cm wide; the fruit is a capsule, and the seeds are as fine as dust, requiring careful management when sowing to emerge and become seedlings.
In Yunnan, rhododendrons grow at altitudes of 800 m-4500 m in high mountains, mid-mountains, low hills and fields, with the most abundant species in the high mountains of western Yunnan. Especially in the cold, humid high mountain zones. Many evergreen rhododendrons such as Rhododendron wardii, Rhododendron aganniphum, Rhododendron anthosphaerum and Rhododendron beesianum, in various colors, often form dense rhododendron shrublands and pure forests, with the spectacle of stretches of ten to twenty kilometers all being a rhododendron "sea of flowers." The flowering period of rhododendrons varies with climate and species: low mountain warm-hot zones mostly bloom in February-March, mid-mountain cool zones mostly bloom in April-June, and high mountain cold-cool zones mostly bloom in July-August. Because of their many kinds, wide distribution and complex and diverse ecological environments, the postures and charms of rhododendrons are also diverse: some have sparse branches and leaves, some have a hundred branches; some are lush and upright, some are curved like dragons, vigorous and ancient. Their flower colors are even more dazzling and varied: deep red like fire, golden brilliant, crystal blue like treasure, or with spots and dots, or with stripes and blocks, pink, magenta, orange-yellow, light purple, yellow with red, red with white, white with green, truly ever-changing and full of wonders. Some are heavily made up and brightly dressed, some are plainly dressed in white, some have red lips and white teeth, some are fragrant and refreshing, truly each with its own charm and countless graceful postures.
Precisely because of the important value of rhododendrons in gardens, China's rich rhododendron resources were long coveted by Western countries. As early as the beginning of the 19th century, they repeatedly sent people to Yunnan at great expense to collect specimens and seeds. The several hundred rhododendrons that Britain's Royal Botanic Gardens now boasts of were mostly collected and cultivated from Yunnan, and have long since become forests. When the flower buds are in full bloom, British men and women come and go in crowds, lingering and forgetting to return.
Yellow rhododendrons contain toxins; poisoning can cause symptoms such as vomiting, difficulty breathing and numbness of the limbs.
Distribution areas of azalea
In China, it is distributed in all provinces and regions north and south except **, especially with the most species in Yunnan, Tibet and Sichuan, making this the world distribution center of the genus Rhododendron.
Northeast China, North China, Shandong, northern Jiangsu, the Korean Peninsula, Japan, and the Russian Far East.
It is widely distributed in the Yanbian area of Jilin (Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture), and there is a saying: "Azaleas on every mountain, martyr monuments in every village."
Azalea uses: ornamental value and bonsai material
Besides ornamental use, some leaves and flowers can be used as medicine or to extract aromatic oil, some flowers can be eaten, the bark and leaves can be used to extract tanning extract, and the wood can be made into handicrafts, etc. Alpine rhododendrons have well-developed root systems and are very good soil and water conservation plants.
Rhododendrons have abundant flowers and lush leaves, are colorful and varied, have strong sprouting ability, tolerate pruning, and have peculiar root stumps, making them excellent bonsai material.
Craft uses
Some species have bark and leaves rich in tannins and can be used to extract tanning extract; the wood and root crowns of rhododendrons are fine and tough in texture and can be made into bowls, chopsticks, basins, bowls, pipes, roots and other daily crafts.
Azalea's dietary therapy or medicinal value
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huhua.com is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and treatment of any disease should follow doctor's orders.
Ultimate flower-protecting task: love yourself, proceed from reality, and strictly follow doctor's orders. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Medicinal materials
The leaves are used in traditional Chinese medicine and have effects such as relieving the exterior, resolving phlegm, relieving cough, calming asthma, and treating colds, headache, cough, asthma, bronchitis and other symptoms. The flowers are beautiful and can be used as ornamental plants; the leaves contain aromatic oil and can be extracted.
Rhododendrons can be used medicinally, and some can also be eaten.
The flowers of yingshanhong are sour in taste and non-toxic and can be eaten raw; the flowers of Rhododendron decorum and Rhododendron pachypodum are still excellent vegetables for the people of central Yunnan; soaking and retting the branches, leaves and flowers of Rhododendron molle can be used as an insecticidal pesticide; Xing'an rhododendron and others can be used to make medicine.
Rhododendron is sweet and slightly bitter in nature, neutral, and delicately fragrant, and has certain medicinal value in medicine: it dispels wind-dampness, regulates menstruation and harmonizes blood, calms the nerves and removes dryness. Among the people, this flower is often stewed together with pig trotters and can treat abnormal vaginal discharge in women. Long-term drinking has the effect of whitening the skin and removing freckles.
Azalea garden uses
In gardens, it is most suitable to plant in clusters and patches at forest edges, beside streams, by pond banks and beside rocks, and it can also be scattered planted under open forests. Rhododendrons are also good material for flower hedges, and hairy azaleas can also be pruned and cultivated into various forms. Rhododendron specialty gardens are very distinctive.
It blooms before the leaves in early spring, with bright and beautiful flower colors, reddening an area without leaves, and is the only red-flowered rhododendron variety in North China that can be cultivated in the open field.
Cultural background of azalea: meaning of the flower
Since the Tang Dynasty, rhododendron has also been known as yingshanhong, manshanhong, shanshiliu, hongzhizhu, qingminghua and so on. Today people in the northwest call it shandandan, and Korean people call it azalea. Together with gentian and primrose, it is called one of "China's three famous flowers." When it is in full bloom, layer upon layer, piled with brocade and beauty, it is famous for its bright red color, praised by people as the "Xi Shi among flowers," and often sung by writers and scholars.
The hometown of azalea---Yanji
----Yangmei
Azaleas bloom all over the hillsides,
My hometown is a beautiful city.
Cool sea breezes blow from the Tumen River,
Pure white clouds drift among the mountains.
La la la, la la la,
My hometown is a beautiful city.
Azaleas bloom all over the hillsides,
My hometown is a prosperous city.
The clear river winds around the towering buildings,
On the broad streets, plants and trees give off fragrance.
La la la, la la la,
My hometown is a prosperous city.
Azaleas bloom all over the hillsides,
My hometown is a city of charm.
In the broad square people sing and dance,
On the lush lawns, skirts flutter in the breeze.
La la la, la la la,
My hometown is a city of charm.
Azaleas bloom all over the hillsides,
My hometown is a city of heroes.
The blazing souls of a hundred thousand sons and daughters of Yanbian
Are what brought forth these pink azaleas.
La la la, la la la,
My hometown is a city of heroes.
The Meaning of the Flower
Winter in Korea is relatively long, with four or five months each year spent in the severe cold of ice and snow. When spring arrives, the azalea (Jindalai) is the first flower to bloom in the fields. Koreans regard the azalea as the sign that spring has come, and it is also the national flower of Korea. The flower language of the azalea is "the flower that blooms forever." Koreans use it to symbolize lasting prosperity, joy and happiness. In the Far East region, the azalea's brilliant red blossoms cover the branches, a blaze of red that gives voice to the unyielding spirit of a nation. It is also the prefectural flower of the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture.
During holidays, or at the time of the prefecture anniversary, the streets and alleys are filled with the unique fragrance of azalea flowers. With the colors it paints, the azalea suffuses the entire foot of Changbai Mountain, further highlighting the Korean people's passion for life and their colorful, authentic character.
The azalea flower seems to want to compete with the plum blossom, but its real meaning is that a girl is about to be married. Her beauty spreads across the land of Yanbian. Whenever you go out to enjoy the greenery during holidays, walking among the azaleas is like being on a quilt of flowers. This is the unique azalea spirit! Even the iceberg of learning wants to poke its head out, show its buds, and reveal its face - that is the azalea!
History
In 1919, the British collector George Forrest, on the western slope of the Gaoligong Mountains in Tengchong, Yunnan, unexpectedly discovered a "rhododendron giant" he had never seen before - the big tree rhododendron. Greed drove him to hire laborers, harden his heart, raise an axe, and cut down this big tree rhododendron that stood 25 m tall, had a diameter at breast height of 87 cm, and was 280 years old, taking away a disk-shaped wood specimen that is still displayed today in the British Museum in London. But 63 years later, in February 1981, scientists found the tallest and largest rhododendron king known to the world at the original site. A further survey by the Tengchong County Forestry Bureau showed that there were still 12 big tree rhododendrons with a diameter at breast height of more than 1 m, among which the largest one was 25 m tall, with a diameter of 3.07 m and an age of more than 500 years. The inflorescence of the big tree rhododendron is a most beautiful flower cluster, water-red in color, each inflorescence composed of 20 to 24 bell-shaped flowers 6 cm-8 cm long with a 6 cm opening, and the inflorescence reaches 25 cm in diameter. This towering big tree rhododendron, its lush crown blotting out the sky and sun, its brilliant blossoms as beautiful as rosy clouds, is the pride of Yunnan, and the pride of the motherland!
Legend
According to legend, in ancient times the state of Shu was a peaceful and prosperous country. The land there was fertile and the produce abundant; the people had ample food and clothing, were free from worry, and lived very happily. But the carefree, prosperous life gradually made the people lazy. From morning to night they lived in a drunken stupor, indulging in gambling and pleasure, giving themselves up to enjoyment, and sometimes they even forgot the time for sowing------
The emperor of Shu was named Duyu. He was a very responsible and diligent ruler, and he loved his people dearly. Seeing the people joyful and carefree, he was extremely anxious. In order not to miss the farming season, every spring sowing season he rushed about everywhere, urging the people to sow quickly and seize the spring light.
But year after year of this instead made the people form a habit: if Duyu did not come, they would not sow.
In the end, Duyu fell ill from overwork and bade farewell to his people. But he still could not forget them. His soul turned into a small bird, and every spring it flew about everywhere, crying out again and again: "Quick, sow the grain, quick, sow the grain." It cried until blood flowed from its mouth. The bright red drops fell over all the mountains and fields, turning into beautiful flowers one after another.
The people were moved. They began to learn from their good ruler Duyu and became diligent and responsible. They called that little bird the cuckoo bird, and they called the flowers formed from that blood the cuckoo flower (azalea).
The Azalea as a National Flower
The azalea (Jindalai) is the national flower of Korea.
The Flower Language of the Azalea
The flower language of the azalea: the flower that blooms forever.
The Korean people regard the azalea as the messenger of spring, a symbol of steadfastness, beauty, good fortune and happiness, and also a symbol of lasting prosperity, joy and happiness.
Azalea Pictures
Rose R. chinensis Rose illustrated guide: how to grow roses / how to propagate roses
Rose ProfileRose R. chinensis
Aliases: Yueyuehong, Gengshen Qiangwei, Sijihua, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Yueyuehua, Yanxuehong, Chouchunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke
Classification: Shrub flowers
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledons, Rosales, Rosaceae, Rosa
Bloom season: All four seasons
The rose, known as the queen of flowers and also called "Yueyuehong," belongs to the Rosaceae family. It is an evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub that blooms in all four seasons, mostly red, occasionally white. It can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, and is also called Yuejihua. Its natural bloom season is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and as cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, and ground-cover roses. China is one of the places of origin of the rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have become a must-give gift between lovers and the subject of love poetry. Rose (scientific name: Rosa chin...
How to grow roses and points to note; an introduction to roses
The rose, known as the queen of flowers and also called "Yueyuehong," belongs to the Rosaceae family. It is an evergreen or semi-evergreen low shrub that blooms in all four seasons, mostly red, occasionally white. It can be used as an ornamental plant and as a medicinal plant, and is also called Yuejihua. Its natural bloom season is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and as cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, and ground-cover roses. China is one of the places of origin of the rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin and other cities. Red cut flowers have become a must-give gift between lovers and the subject of love poetry.
The rose (scientific name: Rosa chinensis), also known as Yueyuehong (Jiangsu and Zhejiang), Yueyuehua, Changchunhua (Changchun, Jilin), and Gengshen Qiangwei, originated in central China in Guizhou, Hubei, Sichuan and other places, and is now found all over the world. It is the city flower of Fuyang, Beijing, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Nanyang, Changzhou, Huai'an and Liuzhou, and the national flower of Iraq, the United States and Luxembourg.
Its natural bloom season is from May to November. The flowers are large and fragrant, and it is widely used in horticultural cultivation and as cut flowers. The main types of roses include cut-flower roses, edible roses, climbing roses, and ground-cover roses. China is one of the places of origin of the rose. It is the city flower of Beijing, Tianjin, Wuhu, Handan, Shijiazhuang and other cities. Red cut flowers have become one of the must-give gifts between lovers and the subject of love poetry. Rose flowers have good antifungal and synergistic anti-drug-resistant-fungal activity.
Morphological Characteristics of the Rose
The rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or without prickles, but there are also roses with almost no prickles. The young branches are green, and the leaves are dark green, alternate, odd-pinnately compound; the leaflets are generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, with a gradually pointed tip and sharp teeth, serrate along the leaf margin, hairless on both sides, smooth; the stipules are fused with the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, and separate at the tip into ear-like lobes.
The flowers grow at the tips of the branches, often in clusters, rarely solitary. The flower colors are very numerous and vary in shade, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, mostly double but also single; the sepals are tail-like and long-pointed, with pinnate lobes along the edges; the styles are separate, extending beyond the mouth of the sepal tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the fine name of queen of flowers. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The bloom season is April to October (northern regions), March to November (southern regions), with the most blooms in spring. Most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. The fleshy rose hip, when mature, is red-yellow, splitting open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut-brown. The fruit is ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, and the sepals fall off.
1. Flowers: The flowers grow at the tips of the stems, solitary or clustered. There are single, semi-double, and double forms, with rich flower colors and diverse flower shapes.
2. Fruit: The fruit of the rose is spherical or pear-shaped, green before ripening and orange-red when ripe. It contains 5 to 14 bony achenes (seeds).
3. Seeds: The outer layer of the rose seed is the pericarp, which has an inner and an outer layer. The outer layer is a bony layer, very hard; the inner layer is a fibrous layer, with fibers interwoven in all directions, very tough. The seed coat is a very thin membranous layer, tightly wrapping the embryo. There is a certain gap between the pericarp and the seed coat.
4. Leaves: Odd-pinnately compound; 3 to 7 leaflets, ovate or oblong; serrate along the leaf margin,[1] most varieties have smooth and glossy leaf surfaces (some varieties are rough and dull), and most varieties are purple-red when the leaves first unfold, gradually turning green later.
5. Stem: The young stem of the rose is purple-red, the tender stem is green, and the old stem is grayish-brown; the stem bears sharp, upright prickles, and the density of the prickles varies by variety.
6. Roots: The morphology of the rose root system is closely related to the propagation method. Seedling plants have an obvious main root and strong lateral roots; seedlings propagated by cuttings have only lateral roots, without a main root, and the number of lateral roots is relatively small and their vitality is poorer.
Evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub, 1-2 m tall. Stem upright; branchlets spreading, green, hairless, with curved prickles or without prickles. Pinnately compound leaves with 3-5 leaflets, rarely 7, 10-15 cm long including the petiole; leaflets broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, 1.5-3 cm wide, with an acute or gradually pointed tip, a rounded or broadly cuneate base, sharply fine-serrate along the margin, bright green on the surface, hairless on both sides; the terminal leaflet has a long petiole, the lateral leaflets have shorter petioles, and the petiole and rachis have sparse glandular hairs and fine prickles; the stipules have eyelash-like glandular hairs or pinnate lobes along the edges, hairless on both sides, and are fused with the petiole at the base. Flowers several in clusters or solitary, about 5 cm in diameter; the pedicel is 3-5 cm long, green, often with glandular hairs; the receptacle is nearly spherical; the sepal lobes are triangular-ovate, tail-pointed at the tip, entire or pinnately divided, hairless outside, with short down on the inside and along the edges; the petals are double, deep red, pink, rarely white; the stamens are numerous; the styles are separate, and the ovary is downy. The rose hip is spherical, yellow-red, 1.5-2 cm in diameter, with the sepal lobes persistent. In the north, April to October; in the south, March to November.
The rose is a deciduous shrub or evergreen shrub, or a trailing and climbing vine plant. The stem is brownish-green, with hooked prickles or without prickles, but there are also roses with almost no prickles. The young branches are green, and the leaves are dark green, alternate, odd-pinnately compound; the leaflets are generally 3 to 5, broadly ovate (elliptic) or ovate-oblong, 2.5 to 6 cm long, with a gradually pointed tip and sharp teeth, serrate along the leaf margin, hairless on both sides, smooth; the stipules are fused with the petiole, entire or with glandular teeth, and separate at the tip into ear-like lobes.
The flowers grow at the tips of the branches, often in clusters, rarely solitary. The flower colors are very numerous and vary in shade, 4 to 5 cm in diameter, mostly double but also single; the sepals are tail-like and long-pointed, with pinnate lobes along the edges; the styles are separate, extending beyond the mouth of the sepal tube, equal in length to the stamens; each ovary has 1 ovule. It has the fine name of queen of flowers. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The bloom season is April to October (northern regions), March to November (southern regions), with the most blooms in spring. Most are complete flowers, or bisexual flowers. The fleshy rose hip, when mature, is red-yellow, splitting open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut-brown; the fruit is ovoid or pear-shaped, 1 to 2 cm long, and the sepals fall off.
Ecological Habits of the Rose
It has strong adaptability, is cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and has no strict requirements for soil, but a slightly acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter and with good drainage is best. The potting soil should be loose, the pot diameter appropriate, the moisture moderate; apply thin fertilizer frequently, remove flowers and prune branches, prevent and control pests and diseases, and repot every year. It likes sunlight, but too much direct strong light is unfavorable to bud development and the petals easily scorch. It likes warmth; generally a temperature of 22-25°C is the most suitable temperature for flower growth, and high summer temperatures are unfavorable for flowering.
It needs sufficient sunlight, air circulation, good drainage, and a wind-sheltered environment, and needs appropriate shading in midsummer. For most varieties, the optimum temperature is 15-26°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. It is relatively cold-resistant; when the winter temperature is below 5°C it enters dormancy. If the high summer temperature continues above 30°C, most varieties bloom less, quality declines, and they enter a semi-dormant state.
Generally varieties can withstand a low temperature of -15°C. It requires fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter, but its range of adaptation to soil is fairly wide. The relative air humidity should preferably be 75%-80%, but slightly drier or slightly wetter is also acceptable. It has the characteristic of continuous flowering. It needs to maintain air circulation and be free of pollution; if ventilation is poor, powdery mildew easily occurs, and harmful gases in the air, such as sulfur dioxide, chlorine, and fluorides, are all toxic to the rose.
Distribution Range of the Rose
China is one of the places of origin of the rose. Modern roses have extremely complex blood relationships.
The rose is the city flower of Zhengzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nanyang, Dalian, Changzhi, Yuncheng, Bengbu, Jiaozuo, Putian, Qingdao, Weifang, Wuhu, Shijiazhuang, Handan, Xingtai, Langfang, Shangqiu, Luohe, Anqing, Ji'an, Huai'an, Huaibei, Huainan, Jiaonan, Nanchang, Yichang, Xuchang, Changzhou, Taizhou, Cangzhou, Suzhou, Hengyang, Shaoyang, Fuyang, Xinyang, Deyang, Tianshui, Dongtai and other cities. Among them, Laizhou City and Shiqiao Town in Nanyang are "homes of the rose," and Shuyang in Jiangsu is the largest rose production base in East China. Among them, the roses produced in Laizhou, Shandong, Shuyang, Jiangsu, and Nanyang, Henan, are renowned at home and abroad.
Cultivation Techniques of the Rose: Bloom Period Control
The rose is also called "Yueyuehong," and its natural bloom season is from May to November, flowering continuously. However, controlling the bloom period of roses during the Olympics is still very important, especially for potted roses and cut-flower roses; the bloom period must be well controlled in order to successfully complete the temporary flower-placement tasks at various venues and gymnasiums during the Olympics and the fresh cut-flower supply tasks.
In actual work, analyze specific situations case by case. For field-grown roses, according to their geographical location, while ensuring continuous flowering, let them bloom more and bloom well from August 8 to 24. The following methods are for reference: around June 20, prune all the spent flowers and part of the already fully bloomed flowering branches of field-grown roses at a ratio of 50%, cutting to the round bud position at the mature part in the middle of the flowering branch, and their blooming ornamental period is about August 1 to 15; around June 30, prune all spent flowers and all flowering branches after full bloom by the above method, and their blooming ornamental period is about August 10 to 25; after June 30, prune spent flowers at any time to let them bloom naturally. For potted roses and cut-flower roses, calculate the date of flower use well, and about 45 days before flower use, carry out a comprehensive pruning of branches.
Fertilizer and Water Management: In the above various pruning situations, scientific fertilizer and water management should be carried out in combination with the plant's growth vigor. After the plant is pruned, when the new generation of buds does not sprout, spray 0.2% urea on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, which can promote new bud sprouting; if the plant grows fast and new branches grow rapidly, exceeding the planned range, controlling the water supply can delay growth. In the process of water control, after the branches and leaves wilt, spray water promptly, and recovery within 1 hour is the critical point. Water is the carrier of various enzymes in the plant body; if the water supply is insufficient, enzyme activity decreases and metabolism slows down, so the plant grows more slowly. If the new branches bud later than planned, at this time spray 0.2% monopotassium phosphate on the leaves once every 5 or 6 days, and the buds will grow rapidly. The rose bloom period consumes a large amount of water and internal nutrients, so the water supply must be sufficient.
Flowering Conditions
1. Sunlight must be long. The place where roses are planted must be both ventilated and able to receive more than half a day of sunlight. This is the primary condition for it to bloom profusely like brocade. If placed in a semi-shaded, semi-sunny spot or a shaded place with insufficient light, it can at most bloom only in spring and autumn in a year. Therefore, households whose living conditions cannot meet the light requirements had best not grow roses and instead grow shade-loving flowers and plants.
2. Prune often. Although the sunlight conditions are good, if roses are not pruned for a long time, they will not grow well either. The pruning method is: after December each year, when the rose leaves fall, carry out one pruning, leaving branches about 15 cm high, with the pruning point about 1 cm above an outward-extending leaf bud, and at the same time remove side branches, diseased branches, and concentric branches. After May, each time a flowering is finished, cut off 2/3 or 1/2 of that flowering branch, so there will be more opportunities for regenerated flower buds. If you want the flowers to bloom large, you can also remove part of them when there are many buds, which both concentrates the nutrients and achieves the purpose of extending the bloom period and opening in batches.
3. Fertilize frequently and promptly. Generally, for newly planted or transplanted potted roses, loose humus-rich loess can be used for cultivation, best mixed with 1/4 rice-hull ash or a little broad bean shell, bean cake, or chicken and pigeon manure, so that the rose can continuously absorb various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium from the soil. For old potted roses that need repotting, basal fertilizer can also be applied by the above method; for those not repotted, you can scrape open the soil surface 2-3 cm and bank in some fresh fish intestines or chicken and pigeon manure, bean cake crumbs, etc. as basal fertilizer. This is best done in January to February when the rose is dormant. In this way, the fertilizer will gradually ferment into fertilizer liquid and seep into the roots along with rain or watering, achieving a good effect. After May is the peak growth season for roses; every 10 days, apply a top dressing once. You can use fully fermented fishy juice or vegetable-leaf juice, mixed and applied at a ratio of 3 parts fertilizer to 7 parts water, and stop fertilizing by November. If you can do as required above, you can have fresh roses meet you every month. The rose by nature dislikes heat; it grows best at a temperature of 20-25°C; above 30 degrees it grows with difficulty. If you master the fertilizing step well, you can overcome its weakness of fearing high summer temperatures.
4. Repotting. Roses do not need to be repotted or have their pots turned every year. If it is moving from a small pot to a large pot, it can be done in any of the four seasons.
Early Spring Management
In early spring, the roots of the rose begin to spread in the soil. At this time the most important nurturing work is pruning.
In warm regions, in late February; in colder northern regions, pruning should be carried out in March to April. Pruning generally means cutting off about 1/3 of the plant height, first removing weak branches, diseased branches and dead branches. The new branches the plant sent out in 2011 have the strongest vitality; choose such main branches and keep 2 to 3, at most 5. According to the plant's original growth situation, generally prune with branch shears at a point about 50 cm from the ground and 1 cm above a robust bud. A so-called robust bud is one that is not yet sprouted, plump, and already raised. In order not to let buds grow into overly dense branches, choose and keep robust buds on the outer upper side of the plant. In addition, pruning should be carried out at the plump part of the branch. When pruning with shears, a "click" sound indicates a plump part. If the cut feels soft, cut further down to a hard place. The aging part at the branching node of the plant is rough and has prominent swelling, with no strong buds at all in between, so it should also be cut off.
The middle part of 2- to 3-year-old main branches is where new buds frequently appear, so when pruning, leave only 10-20 cm. Generally, if you want more flowers in the bloom period, prune lightly. If you want the flowers to bloom well in the bloom period and do not seek many flowers, prune heavily. In addition, for plants with poor growth vigor, you should make up your mind to prune heavily, because such plants have poor root development; if the crown is too large, it easily causes insufficient nutrient supply. While pruning, it is best to do one high-concentration disinfection, which has a remarkable effect on preventing pests and diseases.
To make the pruned branches lean outward, they can be fixed with supports (wooden sticks, etc.), making the tree shape balanced and beautiful, and avoiding the branches and leaves rubbing against each other when the wind blows. The branches sent out from the lower buds of the leaning branches are more robust and the flowers more luxuriant, and attention should be paid to protecting them.
After the Awakening of Insects, insects wake from hibernation one after another and begin to be active. At this time, dissolve 10 ml of fenitrothion (insecticide) and 20 g of wettable sulfur powder used for treating powdery mildew in 10 liters of water, and spray the plant with the fully dissolved concentrated solution. Because the rose has not yet grown leaves at this time, there is no need to worry about pesticide damage.
About 20 days after pruning, the buds begin to sprout. Among them, the weak and small buds are often naturally eliminated during the sprouting process. If you want the flowers to bloom well, keep buds according to the thickness of the main branches: keep 3 to 4 buds on thick branches, keep 1 to 2 buds on pencil-thick branches, and remove all the rest. In regions with cold weather, sprouting is later, so the bud-thinning time can be postponed.
If basal fertilizer was already applied in December, no top dressing is needed in early spring. When sprouting begins, scatter an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer around the roots to promote budding. After the buds sprout, if the ground surface is dry on a sunny day, in order not to let the ground surface freeze, irrigate in the morning or before noon.
Summer Management
Once the peak bloom period of potted roses has passed, they enter the hot, humid summer, and are mostly in a dormant or semi-dormant state. Strengthening the management of potted roses in summer and carrying out rejuvenation care can break the dormancy period and keep them blooming continuously throughout the summer. The main management measures are:
1. Shade and ventilate. Potted roses have limited soil, and in hot weather the soil easily heats up and dries out, so the roses must be shaded and cooled. It is best, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., to place the potted flowers in a ventilated spot under trees in the courtyard or under a trellis, so that the potted flowers receive scattered light, creating suitable environmental conditions for the rose to grow and bloom.
2. Apply more fertilizer and water. Roses bloom many times and need sufficient nutrients and water to ensure vigorous growth. Entering summer, their evaporation and consumption are both large, and growth is rapid; during the bloom period, apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days, or soak bean cake and poultry manure in water, and after sealed fermentation mix with water as a top dressing, making the plant bloom profusely and have lush leaves and breaking the rose's summer dormancy state. For watering, it is best to use sun-warmed water to reduce the temperature difference between the potting soil and the water; if too-cold water is used, it will stimulate the roots and affect the plant's normal development.
3. Spray water more. The rose is in a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and is most favorable for growth when the average temperature is 20-25°C. Therefore, in summer, besides appropriate shading, water should also be sprayed more, best once in the morning and once in the afternoon, creating a humid environment and promoting the growth of flowers and leaves.
4. Thinning and pruning. After the rose blooms, it should be cut off below the third compound leaf under the flower, to promote strong new branches and early budding and flowering. Prune weak short branches first and high; prune robust branches later and short, to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote neat flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed one half, to avoid slow axillary bud sprouting. In addition, it is not appropriate to keep too many flowers per flush; for potted roses, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate. Keeping too many flowers disperses the nutrients too much, making the flowers small and affecting the next flush of flowers.
5. Loosen the soil and weed. Along with clearing weeds from the pot surface, you can use a fine wire rake to gently break the surface layer around the flowerpot, enhancing the looseness and aeration of the potting soil and promoting normal root growth.
6. Prevent and control pests and diseases. The place where flowerpots are placed should often be sprayed with 15% quicklime water or carbendazim or potassium permanganate aqueous solution for sterilization. July to August, the high-temperature rainy season, is the high-incidence period for leaf spot and powdery mildew; you can spray with 0.3-0.5 degree Baumé lime-sulfur mixture, once a week, 2 to 3 times in total. In June to July, if longhorn beetle larvae are found causing damage, the branch tips should be cut off immediately. For other leaf-eating pests, once found, immediately spray 800-fold monocrotophos for control, which can kill eggs and larvae.
Potting Techniques
1. Potting up
This refers to planting newly bred small seedlings or large field-grown roses dug up before sprouting into pots. For small seedlings grown in coarse sand or water culture and bare-root field-grown seedlings potted up, it is best to plant them in plain sandy loam for a period, and after the root system grows strong, use fertilized culture soil and place basal fertilizer at the bottom to repot into a pot one size larger. For small seedlings propagated by cuttings in culture soil or small pots of field-grown plants with soil balls, ordinary culture soil can be used for planting. When potting up, soak the new pot thoroughly with water first, and wash the old pot clean. According to the pot size, place 1 cm to 3 cm of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Then fill part of the soil according to the size of the plant. For bare-root potting up, pile the soil in the center of the pot into a small mound, hold the plant upright with the left hand, fill soil with the right hand, and as you fill soil, lift the seedling gently upward so that the roots hang down at 45°. After planting, firm the soil. For those potted up with root clumps and soil, also straighten the root fibers and plant the plant upright. Small seedlings are generally potted up at any time; once they survive cultivation they should be potted up promptly to prevent leggy growth and weakening. Large field-grown plants must be potted up during the dormant period after leaf fall in early winter or before sprouting in early spring, otherwise normal growth and development will be affected, the tree vigor will weaken, and it will take a long time to rejuvenate. When potting up, the soil should be moist and loose; after potting up, do not water thoroughly for the time being, and pay attention to shading and sheltering from wind. This not only promotes the rapid healing of broken and injured roots but also makes it easy to rejuvenate and grow vigorously.
2. Repotting (transferring to a larger pot)
According to the plant's growth state and development needs, take the whole clump out of a small pot and plant it into a large pot, including transitioning from plain soil planting to culture soil. Repotting is generally done at any time; for example, small seedlings potted up in a No. 2 pot in spring, if growing vigorously, can be transferred to a No. 9 tall pot around July to August. If the plant is even larger, it can be potted into a flowerpot one size larger. When removing from the pot, pinch the plant stem with the index and middle fingers of the right hand, press the palm tightly against the soil surface, and support the bottom of the pot with the left hand and turn the pot over. For small seedlings, tap the pot edge lightly with the hand; for large pots, hold the pot with both hands and tap the pot rim lightly against a hard place, and the whole clump of the plant can be removed. The original potting soil should be watered in advance; when removing from the pot it must not be too dry or too wet. For repotting, use culture soil for planting. First remove the entire surface layer of soil (the "treasure cover") and the lower drainage layer, then slightly loosen and straighten the fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root clump; operate gently and do not let the clump break apart. Then place it in the pot, add 20-60 g of hoof slices as basal fertilizer, fill soil and firm it; after repotting, normal care can continue.
3. Changing the pot
For all kinds of potted roses that have been growing for two years and have developed into shape, in order to keep the plant growing vigorously and the plant shape well proportioned, every year after leaf fall and before sprouting, combine with pruning to replace the potting soil and apply basal fertilizer. For changing the pot, generally still use a flowerpot of the original specification, no longer increasing the size number. For those stored sealed in a soil cellar in winter, after removing the whole clump from the pot, trim the roots; first remove the surface cover of the root clump and the bottom drainage layer, then cut off the overly dense fibrous roots coiled around the outside of the root clump, and be careful to check and remove rotten roots and root nodules; keep the protecting soil around the roots and do not let the clump break apart. The total old potting soil removed should not exceed 1/2. Then place it in a cold cellar for heel-in, and in the coming spring pot it with new soil. For those placed in a cold room or a plastic-film cold frame in winter, they can be changed to new soil and planted into the original pot, with the key points of operation the same as for repotting. After changing the pot, water once thoroughly, and they can be placed in the cold room or cold frame for care.
4. Water and fertilizer
During the growth period of potted roses, water should be given in good time and moisture checked, always keeping the potting soil moist. In hot, dry seasons, spray water on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the branches fresh; in cold seasons, control water, but the potting soil must not dry out completely. Fertilization should be based on the fertilizer preferences of different varieties and the needs of each stage of growth and development, as well as temperature, light and the strength of growth vigor, applying basal fertilizer or top dressing in good time and in appropriate amounts.
Pruning Techniques
Promptly cutting off spent rose flowers is the only way to concentrate nutrients and keep the plant strong and flowering without decline. If spent flowers are not removed in time, the several axillary buds right below the spent flowers often sprout, forming weak branches. These small branches both consume nutrients and ruin the plant shape; even if they can bloom, they are mostly deformed or inferior small flowers. In addition, except for flowers from which seeds are to be collected, spent flowers must never be allowed to set seed.
After the first batch of flowers blooms, medium branches should be cut back to the middle, keeping 3 to 4 buds on the branch; weak branches should be cut back heavily, keeping 1 to 2 buds; strong branches should be pruned lightly, keeping 5 buds, appropriately suppressing growth. The second pruning should be light, cutting only above the second leaf below the spent flower, keeping the axillary bud of the second leaf, which is a bud with the best advantages in both growth and development and is in a dominant position in the whole plant; cutting off this bud will affect the next bloom period, flower quality and the plant's growth vigor.
After the Beginning of Autumn, post-bloom pruning (the third batch of flowers) uses middle cutting, keeping 3 to 4 buds on each branch. To take care of the balance of the plant shape, you can also cut back to the branch that bloomed in the previous batch. Remove overlapping branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches, and leggy branches, to facilitate ventilation and light penetration and a well-proportioned plant shape.
At the same time, post-bloom pruning of roses should also be combined with controlling the bloom period. For roses used for National Day, prune 45 days before flowering, cutting back to the middle and keeping 3 to 4 buds; afterward each branch sends out 2 small branches. After pruning, strengthen fertilizer and water, pay attention to preventing waterlogging and powdery mildew, and the flowers will open one after another in late September.
In addition, pruning can make cluster-flowered roses bloom earlier or later. For such roses, light pruning can retain more mature branches, making the plant bloom two weeks earlier; heavy pruning can make the plant send out strong branches that bloom in autumn, delaying the autumn flowers by two weeks. Therefore, considering the whole, different pruning can be used on the plant to advance or extend the bloom period.
How to Grow Roses: Methods to Promote Flowering
Rose flowers are large and numerous, and need much fertilizer, so more fertilizer should be applied; sufficient organic fertilizer should be applied before sprouting. For potted roses, repot once in early spring. The potting soil formula is: (loam) 5 : (leaf mold) 2 : (rotted manure) 2 : (sandy soil) 1, plus a small amount of rapeseed cake, mixed evenly. After that, apply top dressing once every 10-15 days. For top dressing, you can use liquid fertilizer made by composting cake fertilizer plus phosphate fertilizer, diluted with water and applied; especially after the peak bloom in May, fertilize promptly to promote summer and autumn flowering.[6]
During the rose growth season, it should receive sufficient sunlight, preferably maintaining 8 hours of light per day. If used for indoor viewing, it should be moved in before 11 a.m. and moved out before 4 p.m., so that it receives the soft light around noon, which helps extend the flowering time.
The rose is in a semi-dormant state above 33°C, and is most favorable for growth when the average temperature is 20-25°C. Therefore, in summer, appropriate shading and frequent water spraying should be carried out. To lower the temperature and replenish humidity, in the growth season it is best to spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon, creating a humid environment and promoting the growth of flowers and leaves.
After the rose blooms, it should be cut off below the third compound leaf under the flower, to promote strong new branches and early budding and flowering. The key points of pruning technique are: prune weak short branches first and high; prune robust branches later and short, to promote the weak and suppress the strong, and promote neat flowering. The pruning length of long branches should not exceed 1/2, to avoid slow axillary bud sprouting. In addition, it is not appropriate to keep too many flowers per flush; for potted roses, 3 to 5 flowers are appropriate, and for field-grown roses it depends on the strength of the plant. Keeping too many flowers disperses the nutrients too much, making the flowers small and affecting the next flush of flowers.[7]
Fresh-Cut Techniques
Roses should be harvested and cut when the temperature is low and the humidity is high. If roses are cut too early, the flowers often do not open normally after cutting. Generally they are cut 1 to 2 days before flowering. The cutting time is related to the variety; usually when 4 to 6 petals have loosened from the bud, they can be cut. Sometimes it is found that cut roses droop prematurely before the buds have even opened; this situation is mainly due to cutting too early at the bud stage, when the sepals still tightly wrap the bud. It is best to cut when the sepals and petals form a 90° angle. When cutting, the branch should have 5 internodes or a somewhat longer length, but there must be at least two buds on the branch. One hour after cutting, insert into water to absorb water, then grade by length, bundle in tens, and wrap with cellophane. Rose cut flowers have a short fresh-keeping period and do not tolerate long-distance transport. If the cut roses are not to be sold on the market, they should immediately be put into cold storage, with a storage temperature of 1-2°C, and it is best to insert them in water for wet storage. The water quality for wet storage is very important; a low pH value is favorable for rose cut flowers. Be careful not to insert the leaves into the water too. The freshness-promoting agent in the vase container is a mixed solution composed of silver thiosulfate and aluminum sulfate. Usually the vase fresh-keeping solution for roses is called the Cornell formula solution. To overcome the bent-neck phenomenon of roses, cobalt acetate at a mass fraction of 360×10E-6 can be added to the preservative. In addition, adding ammonium ethyl carbamoylphosphonate can prevent red rose cut flowers from rotting and early wilting.
Propagation Methods of the Rose: Propagation
Mostly the cutting propagation method is used, and division and layering propagation can also be used. Cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable; for green cuttings in summer, attention should be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise rooting is not easy. Winter cuttings are generally carried out in a greenhouse or large shed; if cutting in the open field, attention should be paid to adding moisture-retention measures. For those propagated by sowing, it is used for sexual hybridization breeding. For a few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting propagation is used, and the rootstock should preferably be wild rose. Such as the yellow series varieties.
Management
Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year. While transplanting, pruning can also be carried out: first cut off dense branches and dead branches, then cut off old and weak branches, keeping 2 to 3 outward-growing buds so as to spread in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches; in summer, when new branches grow too densely, thin them out; after each batch of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the spent flower, not letting it set seed and consume nutrients, and keep the plump middle and lower branches, promoting early new branches and blooming again. Roses like to be heavily fertilized with basal fertilizer before flowering and top-dressed with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen seedlings and promote flowering. Roses have strict water requirements and must not be too wet or too dry; too dry and they wither, too wet and the roots are damaged and leaves fall.
Grafting
Cuttings are the main method, with sowing and tissue culture as supplements. Commonly used grafting rootstocks include: wild rose, pink cluster rose, "Baiyutang" (rose), etc.
For field-grown roses, choose a wind-sheltered, sunny place with good drainage. Besides heavy basal fertilizer, top dressing should also be applied during the growth season. Pruning is an important task; besides dormant-period pruning, during the growth period attention should also be paid to bud thinning, cutting off spent flowering branches and rootstock suckers. Greenhouse cultivation is mainly for the production purpose of supplying cut flowers, often planted at a spacing of 30 cm×30 cm, keeping 15-17°C at night and 21-25°C during the day. Potted roses can be used for indoor viewing. The key points of their cultivation and management are: loose potting soil, appropriate pot diameter, moderate moisture, thin fertilizer applied frequently, removing flowers and pruning branches, preventing and controlling pests and diseases, and repotting every year.
Grafting is one of the most widely used methods in propagating roses. Grafting belongs to the category of asexual propagation; it combines parts of two plants into one whole, which continues to grow as a single plant. In the grafted combination, the upper part is called the scion, and the part bearing the scion is called the rootstock. Some rose varieties are few in number and have moving flower colors, while own-root seedlings have weak root systems and grow extremely slowly; using robust rootstocks for grafting makes these rose varieties grow strong and enhances disease resistance.
Grafting can also faithfully reflect the various traits of the original variety, with extremely strong heredity and stability. Through practical observation, for plants formed by growth and development after grafting, from the date of grafting to the opening of the first flower, the fastest takes only 23 days, and a few individual plants can even flower 1 to 2 days earlier, while most grafted plants usually take about 40 to 45 days to flower. It can thus be seen that compared with cuttings, grafting can advance the flowering time.
Taking the Beijing area as an example: on June 15, 2012, grafting and cutting were carried out on the same day. About 20% of the grafted plants could flower around July 25, while only about 10% of the cutting seedlings flowered around September 20 or even later. It can thus be seen that the advantages of grafting are very strong. Of course, graft propagation is complex to operate and has high technical requirements. The specific issues of graft propagation are explained one by one below.
Factors affecting graft survival
1. Selection of rootstock:
For rose grafting, a suitable graft rootstock must first be selected. The rootstock not only bears the functions of mechanical support and absorption and conduction of water and nutrients, it also controls the plant's function of absorbing organic matter, is responsible for the manufacture of various enzymes and the storage of nutrients, and has a great influence on the various characteristics of the stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of the upper part of the plant. Of course, the scion in turn also plays an important role in the growth and development of the rootstock root system. Various experiments have proved that the quality of the rootstock is one of the important factors related to whether ideal grafted rose seedlings can be produced. The rootstocks usually used are roses and their varieties, such as 'Fentuan' rose, 'Manniti' rose, Dutch rose and Japanese thornless rose, etc. These rose species have well-developed root systems, are cold-resistant and drought-resistant, and have strong compatibility with the grafted varieties and stable heredity.
2. Graft compatibility between rootstock and scion:
Graft compatibility refers to the similarity of the internal tissue structure, genetic and physiological characteristics of the rootstock and scion. Through grafting, the plant can be promoted to heal and survive and to be physiologically compatible after survival. The manifestations of weak compatibility and strong compatibility are relatively complex. Generally speaking, the closer the kinship, the stronger the compatibility. Compatibility is strongest between the same variety or the same species. The graft compatibility between different species of the same genus varies by species.
3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion:
The cambium parts of both rootstock and scion must be in close contact over a fairly large area, which is one of the factors for graft survival. In theory, completely matching the cambium of both rootstock and scion is the most ideal grafting effect, but in actual operation it is difficult to achieve, so one only seeks to achieve the largest possible area of contact.
4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting:
Temperature is a necessary condition for cell activity. Only cell activity, including cell division, can promote the growth of the scion.
Usually, different varieties of rose can promote rapid cell growth within the temperature range of 13-32°C. When grafting outdoors, one should choose the period of the year with the above temperatures and when the cambium is in vigorous activity. Such conditions generally appear in spring, early summer and September and October. The callus tissue grown from the cambium is composed of thin-walled and plump cells, which easily lose water and dry out, causing the scion to dry up and die. Therefore, the union must be bound tightly to maintain the moisture of the tissue. The rapid division of callus cells is often accompanied by respiration, and oxygen at this time is indispensable. Therefore, using plastic tape to bind the union has the dual effect of retaining water and promoting respiration.
5. Quality of rootstock and scion:
According to the growth pattern of the rootstock and the comparison between its cutting seedlings and seedling plants, selecting one-year-old seedling plants as rootstock for rose grafting is relatively ideal, because their root systems are well developed, their disease resistance is strong, and their main stems are smooth and of moderate thickness. Of course, using cutting seedlings for grafting also has its advantages, such as a short cutting time and easy rooting.
Grafting techniques
1. Disinfection of tools before grafting: when grafting, while ensuring that the cambium of the rootstock and scion are aligned, it is also necessary to ensure that the cut surfaces of the rootstock and scion are flat. The binding action should be nimble and quick to avoid oxidation and discoloration of the cut surface.
2. Selection and storage of scions: the selection of rose scions is directly related to the survival quality of the grafted seedlings and whether robust grafted plants can be formed. Stored scions can be taken out for grafting at any time, eliminating the trouble of collecting them just before grafting, saving a great deal of time and allowing grafting at any time. The following points should be noted in the selection and storage of scions:
(1). The scion shoots must be healthy and free of pests and diseases. If there is powdery mildew, black spot or red spider, etc., they should not be used.
(2). Usually, one-year-old or less than one-year-old shoots after flowering can be selected, and the entire flowering branch counted from the second axillary bud below the bract can all be used as scion shoots. Flowering branches vary in length, with long ones reaching 150 cm and short ones about 10 cm, and the number of graft buds they contain also varies. Sometimes on the same scion shoot the degree of plumpness and fullness of the graft buds differs, so buds must be selected individually. Generally speaking, graft buds taken from the middle part of the scion branch are most suitable for grafting, with the best survival rate.
(3). As long as the scion has plump graft buds, it can be stored for future use at any time of the year. Of course, in summer it must be cold-stored, and in winter it can be sand-stored. The time for cold storage and sand storage must not be too long. Usually, the number of scions for cold storage and sand storage should be roughly equal to the number of rootstock plants. Or the number for cold storage or sand storage can be determined by the grafting speed. The prerequisite for cold storage and sand storage is that moisture and temperature must be properly maintained. Only by properly maintaining moisture and temperature can the normal physiological activity of the scion shoots be maintained. Practice has proved that scientific cold storage and sand storage are beneficial to the survival rate and survival quality of grafting.
Grafting period
According to the growth habits and growth patterns of roses, grafting can be carried out at any time of the year, but specific situations must be analyzed specifically. When the temperature reaches above 33°C, the survival rate of grafting is relatively reduced, and below 5°C the grafted plants are in a dormant state, so using the winter dormant period for grafting is suitable.
Grafting methods
According to production practice and the mainstream methods of rose grafting, rose grafting methods can be divided into chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding, large-open-door budding, and rootless rootstock grafting.
1. Chip budding with wood:
(1). On the sunny side of the rootstock 4-6 cm above the ground, use a single-edged safety razor blade to cut a shield-shaped incision 1 to 2 cm long at an oblique angle of 30-40°. Then, in the same way and of the same size, select a plump and full graft bud on the scion shoot and insert it into the already cut rootstock incision, and use a white plastic tape of moderate elasticity and width to bind it firmly from bottom to top edge by edge, with moderate tightness.
(2). When inserting the graft bud into the incision, the cambium should be aligned over as large an area as possible, so that the rootstock xylem is not exposed. This method is simple and quick to operate and has a relatively high survival rate, but it has high technical requirements, and the technique of one-time matching of rootstock and scion must be mastered.
2. T-shaped budding: T-shaped budding is also a popular method in rose graft production.
(1). Use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut on the branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4-6 cm above the ground, about 5-8 mm wide, with the depth just reaching the xylem, then make a vertical cut downward from the middle of the horizontal incision, about 1.5-2 cm long, so that the bark layer forms a T-shaped opening.
(2). Cut the scion shoot from the mother plant, remove the leaf blade and keep the petiole, select a plump and full graft bud, use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.5 cm above it, going about 3 mm deep into the xylem, then use the knife to push and cut upward from about 0.5 cm below the graft bud, just reaching the xylem, up to the incision above the graft bud.
(3). Use the knife to pry open the bark layer of the T-shaped incision on the rootstock, insert the graft bud into the incision. After insertion, fine adjustment is needed, aligning the horizontal incision of the graft bud with the horizontal incision of the rootstock without exposing the rootstock cambium; one-time placement is most ideal. After the graft bud is properly placed, bind it with plastic tape, and the graft bud must be exposed when binding. Although this method appears cumbersome and time-consuming, after proficiency it can complete the grafting of one plant within one minute, and the graft survival rate is extremely high and the survival quality is excellent.
3. Large-open-door budding: the large-open-door budding method is also a very popular grafting method. It has high technical requirements, and the exposure time of the rootstock and scion incisions must not be too long. The operating points are as follows:
(1). On the smooth branchless sunny side of the rootstock 4 to 6 cm above the ground, use a short-bladed vertical knife to make a horizontal cut, with the depth just reaching the xylem, then align with one end of the horizontal incision and cut vertically downward 1.5-2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal incision make another cut in the same way. The depth of both cuts just reaches the xylem. Then make another horizontal cut about 0.5 cm below the horizontal incision, and use the knife to remove a small square piece of cut bark to expose the xylem, then use the knife to lift it open.
(2). Remove the leaf blade from the scion shoot and keep the petiole, select a plump and full graft bud, use a knife to make a horizontal cut about 0.3 cm above the graft bud, then align with one end of the horizontal incision and cut vertically downward 1.5-2 cm, then at the other end of the horizontal incision make another vertical cut in the same way, then align with the two vertical incisions and make a horizontal cut to form a rectangular bud piece with the graft bud, with the depth of all four cuts reaching the xylem.
(3). Use a knife or hand to lift open the rootstock bark layer and quickly insert the graft bud and make fine adjustments. Align the two horizontal incisions of the rootstock and scion and bind with plastic tape, with moderate tightness. When this method is used for grafting, the contact area of the cambium of rootstock and scion is large, and the supply of nutrients is rapid, which can greatly improve the survival rate and survival quality.
(4). Rootless rootstock grafting: rootless rootstock grafting is grafting onto new lignified rootless rose branches, followed by cutting propagation. This method of rose graft propagation meets the needs of factory-based, specialized and large-scale production and is not limited by season. Carrying out all-weather assembly-line production indoors can greatly improve production efficiency, survival rate and survival quality. Rootless rootstock grafting can adopt the above-mentioned chip budding with wood, T-shaped budding and large-open-door budding methods. When this method is used for propagation in summer, the graft bud must have 1-2 leaves, and moisture-retaining maintenance is carried out after cutting. If rootless rootstock graft cutting is carried out in a greenhouse in winter, the greenhouse temperature at night must not be lower than 5°C, and for cold-frame cutting, cold protection measures must be strengthened to avoid frost damage.
Whether rootless rootstock grafting is carried out in summer or winter, the cutting density of the post-grafting cuttings is sparser than that of ordinary rose cuttings. When cutting, the cuttings should all lean 70° toward the north, while the graft bud side faces the sunny spot. Technical requirements: plant and row spacing 5 cm x 5 cm, cutting depth about 3 cm.
Disease and pest control of roses
1. Slug moth
Mainly the larvae of the yellow slug moth, brown-edged green slug moth, beautiful brown slug moth, mulberry brown slug moth and flat slug moth, which massively chew leaves in high-temperature seasons. Control method: once discovered, immediately spray and kill with 800 times dilution of 90% trichlorfon crystal, or spray with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate 1500.
2. Scale insects
Mainly white scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, brown soft scale, cottony cushion scale, chaff scale, snake-eye scale, etc. Their harmful characteristic is piercing and sucking the sap of young rose stems and young leaves, causing poor plant growth, mainly induced by high temperature and high humidity, poor ventilation and insufficient light. Control method: during the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray and kill with 2000 times dilution of 25% buprofezin wettable powder.
3. Aphids
Mainly rose aphid, green peach aphid, etc. They pierce and suck the sap of the plant's young and tender organs, harming young stems, young leaves, flower buds, etc., and seriously affecting the growth and flowering of the plant. Control method: promptly spray and kill with 2000 times dilution of 10% imidacloprid wettable powder.
4. Rose sawfly
Mostly in the larval stage, dozens or more than a hundred gather in groups to cause harm, and in a short time can eat all the young leaves of the plant, leaving only a few main leaf veins, seriously harming the normal growth and development of the plant. Control method: for a small number of potted plants, when they first appear, pick the leaves on which large numbers of larvae gather and trample them to death. If they appear in large numbers, spray and kill with 4000 times dilution of 75% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate.
5. Carmine spider mite
It can occur 10-16 generations a year. Adult mites, young mites and nymph mites gather on the back of leaves to pierce and suck and cause harm. Eggs are mostly laid on both sides of the leaf veins on the back of the leaves or under gathered fine silk webs. Each female mite can lay 50-150 eggs, and at most up to 500 eggs. The time to complete one generation is only 10 to 13 days under a temperature condition of 23-25°C, and about 7 to 8 days at 28°C. It is rampant in high-temperature and dry seasons, often causing large numbers of dense small white spots on the front of leaves, with the back of the leaves turning yellow and occasionally with dead spots. Control method: once discovered, promptly spray and kill with 2000 times dilution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder.
6. Scarab beetles
Mainly the copper-green scarab, black velvet scarab, white-spotted flower scarab, small green flower scarab, etc. Adults often chew new leaves, young shoots and flower buds, seriously affecting the growth and flowering of the plant. Control method: taking advantage of the adults' feigning death, shake them off in the evening and kill them. Taking advantage of the adults' phototaxis, use black light lamps to trap and kill them. When adults are feeding and causing harm, spray and kill with 1000 times dilution of 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate.
7. Borer
The rose borer is the larva of the rose stem sawfly. It bores holes in the stem, drills into the stem to chew and feed, causing branches to break and the upper part to die. The larva is white, with a pale yellow head, and a body length of about 15-17 mm. The adult has wings, a black body, and yellow on both sides of the abdomen. The pupa is vermilion. Usually 1 generation occurs a year, causing harm from May to June, and pupating inside the stem to overwinter. It is a relatively harmful pest. Black spot: mainly attacks leaves, petioles and young shoots. When the leaves first become diseased, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the front, and after expansion they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Fungicides such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and daconil can be sprayed.
8. Powdery mildew
It attacks young leaves, with white powdery material appearing on both sides. Early symptoms are not obvious. After the powdery layer appears for 3-5 days, the leaves become water-soaked, gradually lose green and turn yellow, and in severe cases cause leaf drop. During the onset period, spraying carbendazim or triadimefon is sufficient, but the effect of Guoguang Yingna is the best.
9. Leaf blight
It mostly invades from leaf tips or leaf margins. At first there are small yellow spots, which then rapidly expand inward into irregular large spots. In severe cases, 2/3 of the whole leaf becomes blighted, the diseased part loses green and turns yellow, and then turns brown, dries up and falls off. In addition to strengthening fertilizer and water management to control the above diseases, diseased branches and leaves should be cut off in winter, fallen leaves on the ground should be cleared away, and the sources of primary infection should be reduced. When disease occurs, comprehensive control should be adopted and fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl should be sprayed.
10. Black spot
It mainly attacks leaves, petioles and young shoots. When the leaves first become diseased, purple-brown to brown small spots appear on the front, and after expansion they are mostly round or irregular dark brown lesions. Fungicides such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl and daconil can be sprayed.
Overview of rose variety classification
In the class Dicotyledoneae of angiosperms, the three outstanding plants in the Rosaceae family - rose, Chinese rose and rose - are actually all plants of the genus Rosa. In Chinese, people are accustomed to calling varieties with large flower diameters and solitary flowers Chinese rose, those with small flowers growing in clusters rose, and those from which essence can be extracted rose. But in English they can all be collectively called rose. According to officially registered varieties, there are about thirty thousand roses. In fact, more than 200 major varieties under the genus Rosa are all called rose abroad, and in Taiwan they are all called rose.
Main types
The main types of Chinese rose include edible rose, climbing rose (CI series), large-flowered hybrid tea rose (cut-flower roses are mainly large-flowered hybrid tea roses) (HT series), floribunda rose (polyantha rose) (F/FI series), miniature rose (Min series), tree rose, grandiflora rose (Gr series), shrub rose (sh series), ground-cover rose (Gc series), etc.
Climbing rose (CI series)
A new star in landscaping - the climbing rose is a climbing shrub of the genus Rosa in the subfamily Rosoideae, and the plant is relatively tall. Every year it sends out thick and strong new branches from the base, and relatively thick lateral branches grow from the tips of two-year-old climbing branches. It has a four-season flowering habit, but the number of flowers is greatest only in the two seasons of late spring or early summer. It is a climbing growth type, with well-developed root systems and extremely strong resistance. The branches sprout rapidly and the growth vigor is strong. One plant can send out 7-8 main branches a year, and each main branch in turn forms open branching, with the highest annual growth reaching 5 m, and it has very strong disease resistance.
It is extensively managed, resistant to pruning, rich in flower forms, and flowers continuously in all four seasons (some are also one-season or two-season flowering types), with brilliant, unrestrained flower colors, a long flowering period and a rich fragrance. Flower colors include vermilion, bright red, fresh red, pink, golden yellow, orange yellow, bicolor and pure white, etc. It sprouts at the internodes of two-year-old wood and blooms all over the plant, with numerous flower heads, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, flower seas, flower waterfalls, arch shapes and corridor shapes.
Cut-flower roses
The varieties include:
1. Red series: Royal Carriage, Dushutai, Uncle Walter (classic variety), Orange-red Flame, Vermilion Queen, Chang'e Flying to the Moon, Summer Camp, Mozart, etc.
2. Yellow series: Spectrum (classic variety), Jubilation, Changhong, Golden Sunshine, King of Light, etc.
3. Pink series: Pink Fan, Orchid Moon, Parade (classic variety), Angela, etc.
4. White series: Baihe, Climbing Green Cloud.
5. Bicolor series: Eden Rose (classic variety), Flower Fairy, Colorful Cloud, Flying Tiger, Flower Soul, Climbing Electronic Watch, Purple Robe Jade Belt (classic variety), etc.
6. Orange series: Kunteng, Western Land, Sweet Dream, Stream, etc.
Large-flowered hybrid tea rose (HT series)
There are many varieties, and it is the main body of modern roses. Its characteristics are: robust plants, single or clustered flowers, large flowers, elegant and beautiful flower forms, numerous and bright flower colors, aromatic fragrance, and strong ornamental value.
The varieties include:
1. White: Tinwalter, Kennedy (classic variety), Wedding White, First White, White Satin, Green Cloud, Titanic (classic variety), White Christmas (classic variety), White Wine, etc.
2. Yellow: Golden Phoenix, Ohio Gold, Gold Medal, Rhine Gold (classic variety), Gold Medal, Solido, Green Field, Princess Cantor, etc.
3. Red: Crimson Fan, Star (classic variety), Meilang Lipstick, Cartier Playing Cards, Hanqian, Rose Center, Budapest Congressman, Fragrant Magic, Olympic Games, Fragrant Cloud, etc.
4. Blue: Blue Moon (classic variety), Blue Peace, Sapphire, Blue Ribbon (classic variety), Jacaranda, Blue Perfume (classic variety), Blue River (classic variety), Paradise, etc.
5. Black-red: Mister Lincoln (classic variety, one of the 10 most fragrant rose varieties, a large-flowered hybrid tea rose variety, and a standard flower in rose judging), Warrior, Grand Purple Light, Black Whirlwind, Porphyry, Black Pearl, Vermilion and Ink Double Radiance, etc.
6. Green: Green Star, Green Calyx.
7. Orange: Jesta, Joey, Quintley, Golden Bull, Massina, Grand Medal, etc.
8. Pink: Pink Fan, Pink Peace (classic variety), First-Class Lady, Japanese Pink, Drunken Fragrant Wine, Chuck Red, Tang Red, etc.
9. Bicolor: Peace (classic variety), Fire Peace, Chicago Peace (classic variety), Double Delight (classic variety, first among the 10 most fragrant rose varieties), Greek Homeland (fragrant) (classic variety), Meilang Capriccio, Love, My Choice, Light of Peace, Chacok, Modern Art, Princess of Monaco, Colorful Cloud, Garibaldi, Float, etc.
Floribunda rose (F/FI series)
The floribunda rose has an expansive growth habit, with flower heads forming clusters. It is cold-resistant, high-temperature-resistant, drought-resistant, waterlogging-resistant and disease-resistant, and has extremely strong adaptability to the environment. It is widely used in urban environmental landscaping, garden flower bed arrangement, highways, etc.
Miniature rose (Min series)
A new variety in the rose family, with a short plant type, spherical shape and numerous flower heads. Because of its unique character it is also called "diamond rose". It is mainly used for potted ornamental display, embellishing lawns and arranging flower color patterns.
Tree rose
Tree rose, also called rose tree or rose standard, achieves a standard upright trunk and crown through more than two grafting procedures. Current tree rose specifications (height 0.4-2.0 m, trunk diameter 1-5 cm).
Advantages: good ornamental effect, unique shape, noble and elegant, with distinct layers, visually refreshing; diverse shapes, including round ball type, fan type, waterfall type, miniature, etc.; it retains the advantages of general roses such as strong fragrance, long flowering period and diverse flower colors, while appearing more novel, more noble and more enthusiastic, and therefore has higher aesthetic value.
Habits: strong adaptability. The flower crown of the tree rose is farther from the ground than that of ordinary flowers, making it less likely to be infected by soil-borne pests and diseases; the trunk is sourced from rose, with well-developed root systems. The rose of the Rosaceae family has extremely strong vitality, especially in areas with relatively high alkalinity where planting ordinary roses is difficult, and the tree rose fills this gap.
Ground-cover rose (Gc series)
The newest ecological vegetation flower - the ground-cover rose. Its growth situation is:
It has a creeping and expanding type, with a height not exceeding 20 cm. Each plant sends out more than 50 branches a year, the branches root when touching the ground, and each branch blooms 50-100 flowers at a time.
The root system is well developed, with the deepest roots reaching more than 2 m.
The coverage area is large, with a single plant covering an area of more than 1 sq m.
The flowering group character is strong, with continuous flowering in all four seasons.
Its biological habits are:
Drought-resistant; it can grow in areas with annual rainfall of 150-200 mm.
Barren-resistant; it can be planted and grow on slopes, in deep shade, and in areas where irrigation is difficult.
High-temperature-resistant and high-humidity-resistant; it can grow normally at a low temperature of -30°C and a high temperature of 42°C.
Extensive management and strong disease resistance; no pesticide application and no pruning are needed, reducing a large amount of management costs.
The effect of arranging color blocks and road belts is remarkable. The ground-cover rose has deep roots and lush leaves, with large branch and leaf expansion, and strong leaf surface respiration. It has a high adsorption rate for urban dust and harmful substances, and is an excellent product for conserving water sources and maintaining soil and water loss.
The varieties include: Bastino, Ground Cover No. 1, Harford Jun, Rose Carpet, Kent, New Olympics, etc., Flower Carpet.
Peace rose
The Peace rose was bred by the Frenchman Francis Meilland in 1939 under the iron heel of fascism. He sent this rose to the United States under the code 3-35-40. After the American horticulturist Beye received this variety that had crossed the ocean, he immediately distributed it to important flower nurseries in the north and south of the United States for propagation. A few years later, this new variety made a comeback and caused a sensation throughout the United States for a time. In 1945 the American Pacific Rose Society named this variety Peace and declared: We are certain that this most remarkable new rose variety of the contemporary era should be named after the greatest wish of the people of today's world, "Peace", and we believe that the Peace rose will serve as a model and forever grow in the gardens of our descendants for generations. On the day the Peace rose was named, it happened that the allied forces captured Berlin and Hitler perished. And when the Peace rose won the unconditional surrender of the whole of the United States... When the United Nations was established and held its first meeting in San Francisco, in the vase in every delegate's room there was a bouquet of Peace roses presented by the American Rose Society. On it was a note reading: We hope that the "Peace" rose can influence people's thinking and give the whole world lasting peace. During the Second World War, fascist bandits in a village called Lidice 14 km from Prague killed 175 men over the age of 15 and put the women and children into concentration camps. After the war, in order to commemorate these people, many rose experts and some voluntary donors built a rose garden here in 1955, among which the main variety was the Peace rose.
Red Hat rose
Product name: Red Hat rose
Category: flowering shrub category -> Red Hat rose
Product introduction: Red Hat rose scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Scientific name: Rosa chinensis Jacq
Family and genus: Rosaceae
Climbing rose
Distribution: native to Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Guangdong and other provinces. It is now commonly cultivated in various places, especially the original species and Yueyuehong. The original species and most varieties were introduced abroad as early as the beginning of the 18th century and became important original materials for modern rose hybrid breeding.
Morphological characteristics: evergreen or semi-evergreen upright shrub, usually with hooked prickles. Leaflets 3-5 cm, broadly ovate to ovate-elliptic, 2.5-6 cm long, apex acute, margin sharply serrate, hairless on both sides, glossy on the surface; petiole and rachis sparsely bearing prickles and short glandular hairs, stipules mostly adnate to the petiole, margin with glandular cilia. Flowers often several in clusters, rarely solitary, about 5 cm in diameter, dark red, pink, to nearly white, slightly fragrant; sepals often pinnately lobed, margin with glandular hairs; pedicels mostly slender, with glandular hairs. Fruit ovoid to spherical, 1.5-2 cm long, red. Flowering period late April to October; fruit ripening period September to November.
Variety evolution
Breeding and variety evolution: the process of rose breeding and variety evolution is divided into three independent periods. In these three periods the breeding methods are relatively different, but taking gene changes as the theme of breeding is common to all. The three periods are divided as follows:
1. Early period (prehistoric to 1875)
2. Modern era (1875-1967)
3. Contemporary era (1967-present)
The first period lasted about 5,000 years. By 1875, when Mendel published his famous laws of hybridization and inheritance, rose breeding had also developed into directed crossbreeding. From that time on, most rose breeders considered breeding issues from the perspective of Mendelian inheritance or qualitative inheritance, while quantitative inheritance or weighted inheritance behavior in breeding was still little known or rarely applied at that time.
The outline of rose breeding in the first period is as follows:
1. Numerous rose species were collected and all planted together.
2. Only very few of these species contributed to rose breeding in the second period.
3. Intraspecific hybridization was a naturally occurring process.
4. New varieties came only from natural pollination.
5. Rose breeding work was concentrated in Western Europe and the United States.
6. The natural evolutionary trend was from diploid to tetraploid.
7. A primitive, enormous gene pool was formed.
8. Domestication reduced genetic resources.
9. Rose varieties before 1875 were inferred.
The second period began with the application of directed techniques and ended in 1967. From 1967 onward, molecular biology techniques began to be applied to roses. This period lasted 90 years.
The third period, which began in 1967, has already passed more than 30 years.
The beginnings of rose breeding: early horticulturalists selected superior types from wild roses and planted them together. In very early prehistoric times, several rose species or several domesticated varieties among them were already cultivated in China, Persia, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece and Italy, far earlier than the first year of the Common Era. In ancient horticulture, it is unclear whether roses were propagated by seed or asexually, but over more than 5,000 years, a large number of new varieties appeared through sowing seeds obtained from natural pollination.
The domestication of varieties and the production of intraspecific hybrid crosses was a long process. Some undesirable primitive types were discarded, asexual propagation techniques developed, and the progress of domestication accelerated. Through introduction by travelers and variety replacement, horticulturists obtained new genetic resources (any domesticated species undergoes very little genetic change). Early breeders knew that planting one variety together with other varieties had a great influence on the offspring, and they also kept considerable records on mother plants and the production of new varieties, enabling us to confirm the evolutionary process of some varieties. However, breeders at that time still did not understand that paternal characteristics would be passed on to the next generation through pollination. At that time, some diploid varieties also evolved into tetraploid varieties. Almost all the main varieties of modern roses are tetraploid. It is worth noting that within some continuously blooming varieties, vigor increases with the increase in ploidy. If this knowledge had been understood earlier, it might have stimulated the interest of breeders of that period in directionally breeding tetraploid new varieties from diploids.
The China rose (Rosa chinensis), native to China, played a more important role in the breeding of new rose varieties in Western Europe than any other rose species. It brought to new varieties the previously unknown traits of continuous blooming and bushy growth. Multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora) was also a very important parent, bringing the umbel inflorescence trait to roses.
In the second period, research in biomolecules developed unprecedentedly. However, there was not much scientific research on roses. This situation can be seen from the past two journals, Plant Breeding and Horticultural Abstracts: among the thousands of articles each year in them, very few were about roses. Scientific research work on roses was mainly concentrated on taxonomic cytology, physiology, morphology, growing conditions, variety and rootstock research. The goals of breeding research lay in trait inheritance, simplification of crossbreeding procedures, and increasing the rates of direct and indirect selection. Research on low-energy-consumption and pest- and disease-resistant varieties was relatively scarce and far behind that of fruit trees. For example, almost all breeding work was confined to universities or research institutes.
In the second period, there were two major discoveries. First was the breeding of the continuously blooming, large-flowered variety, which was bred by Pernet in 1900. It marked the first success in directed interspecific hybridization breeding of roses.
The second major achievement was in 1920, the breeding of the ancient compact variety "pompon de paris". This new type was rediscovered in Switzerland and is now named R. roulettii Corre von; it is the origin of some modern miniature roses.
In the early part of the second period, people discovered a large number of rose gene types. Facing abundant genetic resources, breeders of the second period seized the opportunity. Some parents were selected and retained, while others were discarded. Crossbreeding techniques were further developed, and indoor crossbreeding began. Many different original parents could be crossed with one another, and as a result the originally clear boundaries between different types disappeared.
In the 1930s, roses were divided into greenhouse roses and open-field roses. Encouraged by the demand for varieties of the two types, breeders began to select and breed types suited to their respective specific environments. Today, breeders are mainly focused on the first type, because the quality of greenhouse varieties is 3-5 times that of open-field varieties, making greenhouse varieties particularly notable. Because there have always still been very abundant genetic resources among varieties, breeders have been quite successful in breeding work for the two types, and gradually some types suitable for greenhouse production were bred, including some small-flowered, medium-flowered and large-flowered varieties.
Generally speaking, there is no difference in method between breeding greenhouse roses and open-field roses. When it comes to methods or breeding procedures, breeders mostly use negative methods, selecting their seedlings. In the selection process, about 99% of seedlings are eliminated. This method of strict selection among tens of thousands of seedlings each year continued for nearly 100 years, which inevitably led to serious loss of genes. Worse still, almost every breeder selected the same traits, and therefore applied the same selection criteria.
Differences from roses (Rosa rugosa)
The stems of Rosa rugosa are tall and long, the prickles are mostly straight, the flowers are small, the flower color is single, and the flowering period is short. In contrast, the flowering branches are upright, the flower colors are rich, and the fragrance is strong. Rosa rugosa leaflets are also 5-9 in number, but the underside of the leaf is wrinkled, the leaf back is whitish with small prickles, and the whole leaf is relatively thick with sunken veins. Rose (Rosa chinensis) stems are low and short, the prickles are large, with roughly 3 or 4 hooks per node; the flowers are large, the flower colors are rich, the scent is faint or absent, and the leaflets are generally 3-5 in number, with flat, smooth leaf blades.
The role and uses of roses: the influence on the home environment
1. A rose plant in the home gives you a home full of poetry. Different kinds of roses have different flower meanings. For example, the flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of white roses: respect, sublimity, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white roses: innocence, frugality, or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. Such an interesting flower, plant one, and it gives your whole home a new face.
2. A dark appearance makes the owner more energetic. Usually, dark-colored things give people a visual impact. Just imagine, if you come home and face four walls that are all white, and the furniture you see is all light-colored, it is very lifeless. If you suddenly see a vigorously growing rose beside the television, the whole person will certainly perk up immediately, because the visual sense receives a sudden change. Once a person is refreshed, life also becomes especially lively, and the feeling is particularly good.
3. The role of greening the home is also self-evident. Rose is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, with green branchlets, scattered prickles, and some are almost thornless. The leaf margins are serrated, both sides are hairless and smooth, and the stipules are fused with the petioles. The flowers grow at the tips of the branches, the flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary, and the flower colors are very numerous. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered, though some are single-flowered. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The fleshy rose hip, when mature, is red-yellow, splitting open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Such a beautiful rose flower continuously absorbs components in the air that are unfavorable to human life and releases oxygen that is good for the human body, so the greening effect is achieved without one even noticing.
Feng shui effects
First, planting roses in your own garden can make family members feel refreshed and sharp. Rose is an evergreen or deciduous shrub, with green branchlets, scattered prickles, and some are almost thornless. The leaf margins are serrated, both sides are hairless and smooth, and the stipules are fused with the petioles. The flowers grow at the tips of the branches, the flowers are often clustered, rarely solitary, and the flower colors are very numerous. There are countless varieties, mostly double-flowered, though some are single-flowered. The flowers have a slight fragrance. The fleshy rose hip, when mature, is red-yellow, splitting open at the top; the "seed" is an achene, chestnut brown. Its bright red appearance makes people feel energized. At the same time, it should be noted that the rose is a relatively toxic plant, so we cannot plant it too close to us, for example in the living room and bedroom, and when planting it in the garden we also cannot plant too many, because its fragrance is toxic.
Then, plant a few roses in the backyard of the home, and the family's life becomes happier and happier. The flower meaning and symbolic significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of white roses: respect, sublimity, purity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of green-white roses: innocence, frugality, or a pure heart; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of black roses: individuality and creativity; the flower meaning and symbolic significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing. The symbolic meaning of the rose is very clear. If a family lives together every day and looks at the rose from afar, associating it with the meaning it represents, and thereby cherishes every day of living with family, happiness begins right there, and this home where they live together becomes a feng shui home.
The garden uses of roses: landscaping
In landscaping, the rose has indispensable value. Among flowers, the rose is the most frequently used in gardens in both the north and the south. The rose is a major ornamental flower in spring, with a long flowering period, high ornamental value, and low price, and is loved by gardens everywhere.
The "bond" role
Because of its climbing growth habit, the rose is mainly used for vertical greening, and has a unique role in garden streetscapes and beautiful flower environments. If it can form an ornamental
purposeful corridor and flower pillar, made into various arches, grid shapes, and frame-style trellises for roses to climb on, and then through appropriate pruning and shaping, it can decorate buildings and become a clever "bond" linking buildings and gardens.
Environmental protection role
It can be made into continuous flower hedges, flower screens, and flower walls, used in organs, schools, residential communities, urban squares and other places. It can not only purify the air and beautify the environment, but also greatly reduce noise pollution in surrounding areas and alleviate the greenhouse effect of cities in the hot summer.
The dietary therapy or medicinal value of roses
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huhua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow medical advice.
The ultimate flower-protecting task: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow medical advice. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Medicinal value
[Aliases] Yueyuehong, Sijihua, Shengchun, Douxuehong, Yueguihong, Yueguihua, Yueji, Yueyuekai, Changchunhua, Yueyuehua. Yanxuehong, ChouChunhua, Yuejigang, Yueguanghua, Tongchuizi, Sijichun, Shouke.
[Definition]: The dried flowers of the Rosaceae plant Rosa chinensis.
[Collection]: Can be harvested throughout the year, picked when the flowers are slightly open.
[Nature, flavor and meridian tropism]: Sweet, bland, slightly bitter, neutral. Enters the liver meridian.
[Efficacy]: Activates blood and regulates menstruation, soothes the liver and relieves depression, reduces swelling and detoxifies.
[Indications]: 1. Liver depression and blood stagnation, irregular menstruation, dysmenorrhea, amenorrhea, and distending pain in the chest and hypochondrium; 2. Traumatic injuries, stasis and swelling with pain, carbuncles, sores and swellings, scrofula. [11]
[Trade name] Yuejihua (Rosa chinensis flower). The best quality is flower buds or just-opened flowers that are complete, dry, bright in color, and fresh-scented.
[Prescription names] Yueji, Yuejihua, Yueyuehong, Sijihua.
The rose is not only an ornamental flower with a long flowering period and fragrant, colorful blooms, but also a fine gynecological medicine. Traditional Chinese medicine holds that the rose is sweet in flavor and warm in nature, enters the liver meridian, and has the effects of activating blood and regulating menstruation, reducing swelling and detoxifying. Because the rose's effects of removing stasis, promoting qi flow, and relieving pain are obvious, it is often used to treat conditions such as irregular menstruation and dysmenorrhea.
Clinical reports state that when women experience amenorrhea or scanty, pale, and reduced menstruation, lower abdominal pain, together with poor spirits and dry bound stool, or when the above symptoms appear during the menstrual period, treatment with Shengchun Tang is effective. The medicinal composition of Shengchun Tang is: rose 10g, angelica 10g, Salvia miltiorrhiza 10g, white peony 10g, with an appropriate amount of brown sugar, decocted in clear water and taken orally. The soup tastes sweet and fragrant, with no difficulty in swallowing. Take 3 doses 3-5 days before each menstrual period, adding one egg to cook together each time; its effect is reliable, and it is truly a wonderful formula for regulating menstruation, regulating qi, and activating blood.
The combination of rose and bitter orange flower is even more of a fine formula for treating menstrual diseases caused by disharmony of qi and blood. Use 15g each of rose and bitter orange flower, decoct in water and take. The rose emphasizes activating blood, while bitter orange flower tends toward promoting qi flow. When the two medicines are paired, one is qi and one is blood, regulating both qi and blood, and their effects of regulating menstruation and activating blood, promoting qi flow and relieving pain are very good. Main indications are in women with liver qi stagnation, disharmony of qi and blood, and stagnant obstruction of the meridians and vessels, leading to irregular menstruation, chest and abdominal pain, poor appetite, or even nausea and vomiting and other symptoms.
For common gynecological diseases, folk single formulas and proven formulas using roses are also very effective. For example: steep 20g of fresh roses in boiling water and take, which can treat irregular menstruation or abdominal pain during menstruation; decoct 30g of rose root, 15g each of cockscomb and Leonurus japonicus in water and cook eggs to eat, which can treat dysmenorrhea;
For excessive menstruation and excessive vaginal discharge, use 15g of rose (or root) decocted in water and taken orally, or stewed with pork; decoct 10g of rose and 12g of jujube together, and after the soup is ready add an appropriate amount of honey and take it. This formula is fragrant and sweet, not like medicine, and is very effective for menstrual hot flashes. In addition, women often steep rose petals in water as tea, or add them to other beauty teas to drink, which can also activate blood and beautify the face, helping people stay youthful.
The cultural background of roses
One of China's top ten famous flowers. The rose is known as the "queen of flowers", and it also has an unyielding spirit, with a fragrance that carries far.
Status in traditional culture
The rose holds a weak position in traditional Chinese culture, but new archaeological discoveries show that the rose was the totem plant of the northern lineage of the ancestors of the Chinese nation - equivalent to the legendary Yellow Emperor's tribal group.
The rose is now the city flower of Beijing and other cities.
Rose Flower Festival, May 1 to May 20. Every year at this time, Zhengzhou holds a rose flower festival. Not only do the organizers present roses of various colors, but city residents can also bring out famous varieties they have cultivated at home for many years. At that time the whole city is full of flowers; parks and streets and alleys are filled with beautiful fresh flowers and rich fragrance.
Legends
Long ago, there was a family surnamed Gao at the foot of Shennong Mountain. The family had a daughter named Yulan, just eighteen years old, gentle and quiet. Many young noblemen and princes came to seek marriage, but Yulan did not agree. Because she had an elderly mother who coughed and spat blood all year round, and despite many medicines, none were effective. So Yulan, without telling her parents, posted a notice seeking medical treatment: "Whoever cures my mother's illness, I, your daughter, am willing to marry him." A young man named Zhongyuan answered the notice and offered a formula. After Yulan's mother took his medicine, she indeed recovered. Yulan did not break her promise and married Zhongyuan. On their wedding night, Yulan asked what miraculous formula was so effective, and Zhongyuan replied: "Rose, rose, a good remedy for clearing cough. This is a secret family formula: rock sugar and roses stewed together is a miraculous soup for clearing cough and stopping bleeding, specially treating women's diseases." Yulan nodded and remembered it in her heart.
The national flower and city flowers of the rose
It is the city flower of Fuyang, the city flower of Beijing, the city flower of Tianjin, the city flower of Shijiazhuang, the city flower of Nanyang, the city flower of Changzhou, the city flower of Huai'an, and the city flower of Liuzhou.
The national flower of Iraq, the United States, and Luxembourg.
The flower language of the rose
The flower language of the rose: waiting for a hopeful hope, happiness, glory, and beauty ever renewed. [13]
The flower language and symbolic significance of pink roses: first love, elegance, nobility, gratitude.
The flower language and symbolic significance of red roses: pure love, passionate love, chastity, courage.
The flower language and symbolic significance of white roses: respect, sublimity, purity.
The flower language and symbolic significance of orange-yellow roses: full of youthful spirit, beauty.
The flower language and symbolic significance of green-white roses: innocence, frugality, or a pure heart.
The flower language and symbolic significance of black roses: individuality and creativity.
The flower language and symbolic significance of blue-purple roses: preciousness, cherishing.
Rose pictures