What diseases do greenhouse flowers need protection from in winter?

Winter is a very tough season for flowers and plants that are not cold-tolerant, so many flowers and plants are moved into greenhouses in winter. However, flowers grown in greenhouses can develop some diseases. The editor will now introduce which problems greenhouse flowers should be protected against in winter.

Greenhouse flowers

Prevent cold damage. For flowers that are not cold-tolerant, add straw curtains at night or set up small tunnels inside the greenhouse; you can also dig a water storage pit every few meters in the center of the greenhouse and use the pit to keep warm; or scatter some plant ash on the ground, which generally can raise the ground temperature by 1-2°C.

Prevent moisture damage. During long periods of sealing and many rainy and snowy days, drainage ditches should be opened outside the greenhouse to reduce soil moisture. In addition, you can scatter some plant ash on the pot surface or the ground to absorb heat, increase temperature, absorb moisture, and reduce humidity. At the same time, pay attention to keeping the greenhouse film taut and strictly prevent water accumulation and leakage on the roof.

Prevent gas damage. Fully decomposed organic fertilizer should be applied inside the greenhouse, and the amount of chemical fertilizer should be reduced as much as possible. On clear and windless days, ventilate promptly to expel harmful gases from the greenhouse.

Prevent diseases. The air humidity in the greenhouse is high, so special attention should be paid to preventing powdery mildew, black spot, anthracnose, and other diseases. For anthracnose, spray 75% chlorothalonil at 500 times dilution in the early stage of the disease; for powdery mildew, spray 1:1:140 equal-strength Bordeaux mixture; for black spot, spray 70% thiophanate-methyl at 1000 times dilution. When using chemicals in the greenhouse, avoid the high-temperature period at noon on sunny days and the flowering period.

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Hydroponic flower knowledge | Complete guide to hydroponic flower knowledge

Ten questions about hydroponic flower techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be hydroponically grown, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to lack of oxygen need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas need to be adopted. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be hydroponically grown. Many plants are suitable for hydroponics, including golden
pothos, money tree, Peperomia, sunflower, arrowroot, Xanadu, Mary Ann, snake plant, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, and so on. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering and fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and so on. It is a colorless, odorless, and non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate each other and make the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, in order to ensure sufficient and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solution currently sold on the market is only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower root system and should not be too much. In general, when the root system is relatively well developed, part of the root system should be exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial to healthy root growth. Do not add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either. If it is too little, the nutrient solution will need to be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving types, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because hydroponic flowers placed in homes are usually in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers need a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower needs a corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Culture Technology Research Office of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, interior plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take out the soil-cultured flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small fish, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root secretions from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, the fish are more likely to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed can also easily make the nutrient solution cloudy and reduce the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When hydroponically growing flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the speed of water consumption by the plant. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once about every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use one that has been stored for more than 5 years. During storage, keep the concentrated nutrient solution away from light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience talk on household hydroponic flowers

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-cultured flowers: 1. Water replaces soil, odorless and tasteless, clean and hygienic. 2. No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3. Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4. Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. 5. Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia, Monstera, taro, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, spiderwort, inch plant, coleus, Brazilian wood, dwarf coconut palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, and so on. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other flowering plants have good results when grown hydroponically. For sword fern, pot marigold, petunia, and Excoecaria cochinchinensis, the survival rate as hydroponic flowers is not high.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1. Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water is acceptable. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, and so on. The top opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to clean and disinfect them before use. 2. Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container and mainly serve to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, and so on. Small pebbles with an elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be hydroponically grown in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best hydroponically grown when the first flower bud is about to open, such as cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, and so on, which are often hydroponically grown in early January, so that the full flowering period falls during the Spring Festival and gives people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1. Root washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Remove it from the pot and remove the soil, wash the soil from the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that are already rotten and aged. For dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes, which both sterilizes and disinfects and promotes new root growth, after which hydroponic cultivation can be carried out. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2. Water cutting method. Select robust, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off, and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cut is usually made 2-3 mm below a stem node. The cut surface should be trimmed smooth with a sharp knife that has been wiped and disinfected with white liquor in advance, and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water used for hydroponics and water changing. 1. Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, does not precipitate, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Boiled cooled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, easily precipitates, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2. Changing water. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus. The water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning, and a considerable amount of the nutrient solution added to the water has been absorbed by the plant. Too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15-20 days. Each time the water is changed, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone. Too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes root water shortage and affects growth.

6. Adding hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will appear. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1. The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2. Each type of special nutrient solution must be used for its specific purpose, avoiding mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period. Directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as for pothos and Dieffenbachia.

Techniques for preventing and controlling pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly disinfected vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that are removed from pots, washed of roots, and converted to static hydroponics can likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae. If these are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor should large doses of fungicides be used to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

For pests and diseases that may occur on hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the main approach. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible flowers with robust plants, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet-soggy lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection, but by unsuitable environments. Stuff, hot, high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, sunburn, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When the temperature is too high in midsummer, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, which is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used. Cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower branch section that has become detached does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at this point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, colorful ti plant, arrowhead plant, and so on can all use this method.

Complete household hydroponic flower manual

Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants

1. Remove from the pot flowers cultivated in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert them to static nutrient solution hydroponics.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings and insert them directly into static water. After rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly hydroponically grown.

4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, hydroponics can be carried out by peeling off rooted tiller buds.

How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must have three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Select cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no bottom holes.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and all mineral nutrients essential for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Microelements: disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 mL).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is less than 0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and add hydroponic nutrient solution for cultivation, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

To prepare nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, drinking tap water can generally also be used to prepare nutrient solution. Both have been strictly treated, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent components, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable components.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water, store it in a large-diameter bucket for several days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing water, 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) can be added to 10 kg of tap water and stirred evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine removal effect.

Most foliage flowers prefer a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and maintain green leaf color.

How to carry out foliar fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve flower quality, foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-nozzle sprayer should be used, and efforts should be made not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The backs of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and hydroponic flowers can become lush and flourishing. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as peace lily, four-season begonia, cane begonia, calla lily, and so on, during the bud stage, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded valley areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flowers and plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are more cold-tolerant, such as ivy, periwinkle, and Senecio, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, some flowers lose their leaf luster, growth becomes sluggish, and brown scorch-like spots appear on leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as cane begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keep the temperature at 15°C to 28°C, which is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light requirements for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colorful-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in weakly lit environments and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flowers 180 degrees relative to their original orientation for cultivation, so that the flowers will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

Humid environment and good ventilation

Most foliage flowers originate from warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray mist on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle head so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run off. For relatively firm leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and clivia, the leaf surface can be wiped with a wet towel, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaf surface. For larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can similarly increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, are adversely affected in their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can, of course, achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Timely ventilation is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flower displays especially need to do this work well.

Pest and disease control for hydroponic flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly disinfected vacuum environment and can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that are removed from pots, washed of roots, and converted to static hydroponics can likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae. If these are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor should large doses of fungicides be used to sterilize. Although these drugs can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

For pests and diseases that may occur on hydroponic flowers, prevention should be the main approach. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible flowers with robust plants, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet-soggy lesions, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection, but by unsuitable environments. Stuff, hot, high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, sunburn, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, too high nutrient solution concentration, or inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When the temperature is too high in midsummer, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, which is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root rot caused by oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used. Cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower branch section that has become detached does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, and at this point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, colorful ti plant, arrowhead plant, and so on can all use this method.

How many hydroponic flowers are appropriate to display

Cultivating hydroponic flowers indoors can regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air. Displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, flowers and people will compete for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters of room area. Based on this standard, for a room of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of different sizes can satisfy viewing needs without causing flowers and people to compete for oxygen at night.

How to choose hydroponic flower materials in winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "requirements":

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy back types that are not suitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, before long they will gradually die because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, moisture-loving plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all quite suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, Philodendron, inch plant, lucky bamboo, and so on.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to keep safe through winter in ordinary homes, easily suffering cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with slight cold protection include Monstera, purple inch plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, dwarf coconut palm, bamboo palm, and so on.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look like they are growing normally, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so they must be carefully identified when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants without pests or diseases. Plants with upright and vigorous branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are beneficial for showing the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not require extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely separated from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil like soil-cultured flowers do, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are separated from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them. We can not only appreciate the flowers and leaves, but also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their various beautiful forms. It is very neat and stylish.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the adaptation technology of plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through planting baskets to produce water roots, nor does it need early computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers, which greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product greater profit space, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market. At the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting baskets are used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow indoors at home with hydroponics, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically. The number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly more than four hundred. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be hydroponically grown, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, the nutrient solution is not prone to breeding mosquitoes. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers at home, there will be even more unexpected surprises. Facts have proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as the light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in the ecological habits and tissue structure of flowers, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have ventilating tissue in their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the ventilating tissue to the root parts for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air; some flowers, although they do not have ventilating tissue and aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are still very adapted to hydroponic conditions. However, the oxygen content in water for some flowers cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, it is necessary to choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and do not blindly cultivate them, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower types adapted to hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after plants cultivated in soil are washed with water, most of their existing roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Dieffenbachia, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema 'Silver King', Aglaonema 'Golden Queen', clustered Philodendron, mini Monstera, Monstera, peace lily, green taro, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', arrowhead plant, taro, anthurium, and emerald gem.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple inch plant, purple-backed oyster plant, Lophatherum, inch plant, and so on, all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown from water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, ti plant, dragon blood tree, Madagascar dragon tree, snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged Dieffenbachia, silver-edged lily turf, and so on.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, immortal plant, silver jade, jade plant, mother of thousands, and so on.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue chalk sticks, cane begonia, beefsteak begonia, green taro, clivia, slipper orchid, croton, dusty miller, Senecio, leaf cactus, triangle bamboo, pineapple, Cryptanthus, chloranthus, star jasmine, dragon bone, colorful cloud, variegated periwinkle, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, four seas wave, ivy, English ivy, bamboo palm, dwarf coconut palm, and so on.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high temperature requirements for overwintering. For example, some species of Dieffenbachia and croton require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; pothos, arrowhead plant, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and dragon blood tree types also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter, this certainly will not be a problem, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, due to the effects of low-temperature cold damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and have scorched leaf tips or margins, or new scorch spots will appear on the leaves, even causing massive leaf drop or partial death of branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no conditions for stable heating, attention must be paid to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary homes include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Dieffenbachia, star jasmine, bamboo palm, agave, Aucuba, jade plant, sea onion, variegated lily turf, and so on, which can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera, purple inch plant, Lophatherum, aloe, spider plant, silver jade, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, chloranthus, colorful cloud, variegated periwinkle, English ivy, dwarf coconut palm, and so on, which can overwinter safely with slight protection during winter.

Of course, some flowers such as Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Emerald', arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, and croton, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade tolerance issues

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even semi-shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple inch plant, and inch plant need sufficient scattered light, but peace lily, giant taro, Dieffenbachia, and Aglaonema 'Silver King' all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different light conditions within rooms vary, suitable flower types should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement position to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, it can cause the branches and leaves of the plant to become leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, to lose green color and proper luster, and for colored stripes on the leaves to become lighter and fade, or even cause a large number of fallen leaves, thus seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Hydroponic Spider Plant Techniques

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), with its fresh green leaves shaped like orchid leaves, is crisp and elegant, and is a common and well-loved foliage houseplant. It also has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layered or double-layered. For a single-layer bottle, take a plastic bottle or ceramic bottle without a bottom hole and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, planting the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve so that the roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or ground-planted spider plant from its pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from its roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keeping the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, pest-damaged and diseased leaves), keeping healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, secure the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, fill the bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in the water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, place ceramic granules or stone grains (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and fill the lower bottle with clean water and flower nutrient solution. After potting is complete, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, with water input through the straw until full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container clean, fill with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and place the plastic sieve on top of the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Nutrient solution is added through the roots by adding water and changing water at the same time; for foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves with diluted flower nutrient solution once every 3 days.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with universal powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: The spider plant blooms half a year after potting. Do not spray water on the flowers when blooming, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut them off from the branch tips to promote re-flowering.

The Outstanding Choice for Still Water Culture

Plants of the Araceae family comprise 105 genera and more than 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia, arising in the waters or swamps of forest regions. Through a long history of evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in the Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the plants of these genera are all terrestrial, they have an extremely close genetic relationship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves hygrophytic species, some have aerial roots, some readily produce adventitious roots, and some readily develop aerenchyma under stressful environments.
For terrestrial plants in still water culture, root respiration is in a severely oxygen-deficient state. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting plant species, that is, those with a close genetic relationship to aquatic plants. Araceae plants have a close genetic relationship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
First, Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in the Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or hygrophytic evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in the Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), first arising in water environments. Pistia is found in freshwater waters of almost all major continents of both the Old and New Worlds; it is the most evolved monotypic genus in the Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with a very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, the Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Calla palustris, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation,” a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in the Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a “negation” of the aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation,” which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation.” It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for still water culture.
Second, the Araceae belongs to the Arales, which has only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, which comprises floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that the Araceae and the aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have an extremely close genetic relationship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, along an approximately spiral curve.
Third, the relationship of the Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that the Arales evolved from the Liliales, and a few aquatic types in the Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that the Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lily types) with the Arecales and the Commelinales, and can be traced further back to the Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that the Arales has a close genetic relationship with the Pandanales and the Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with the Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that the Arales has genetic relatedness with the Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with the aquatic Lemnaceae, and have genetic relatedness with the Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for still water culture.

Judging and Handling Root Rot in Hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, plants often suffer root rot due to management and other reasons; for example, excessively low temperatures, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will deteriorate water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with your nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotting and deteriorating; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and discolored, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone with your hand; the epidermis is easily torn off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tips. After pruning, continue until you cut to normal roots. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple Hydroponic Facilities -- Bottles and Jars and Cultivation Management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene rigid foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight tidying up, they can become hydroponic carriers of various sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes the best use of materials, but also greens the surrounding environment, with a charm of returning to nature.

I. Bottles and Jars

1. Metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage cartons, etc., were originally used to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside for use as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the roots can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material does not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, of the kind used for clothing interlining. Gently rinse the soil off the plant seedlings to be hydroponically grown, or purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the roots. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and seat cushions), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, available in yellow and in yellow with white) to increase thickness, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are on hand, floral foam, appropriately cut, can also serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed roots, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution surface should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success in hydroponics. By means of the capillary action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid surface and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material, to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae that compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to provide shading measures, or place it where direct sunlight cannot reach.

II. Boxes and Cases

1. Box body: Usually a white rigid polystyrene foam box used for packaging and shock protection, or a corrugated cardboard box or wooden box of certain strength, etc., can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves as the planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough that the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while exposing about 1/2 of the cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal times.

3. Planting cup: Materials and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on all four sides than the inner clear area of the box and 2.5 to 3 cm thick as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it, to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate roots extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve as a wick for the nutrient solution. If these cannot be obtained, medical sterile absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the absorbent cotton layer should exceed the floating board by about 6 cm on all four sides, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely down from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant's root system can extend freely on the floating board, contacting the air more directly. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary still water culture, which cannot circulate nutrient solution or oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of just planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until fully renewed.

Humidity and Good Ventilation Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Foliage flowers mostly originate from warm and humid environments. Still water culture also needs to create a relatively humid environment to grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, then move the flowers back indoors after spraying). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface without running off. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If still water culture flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and air turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, with no doors or windows opened in the room, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and growth becomes worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, letting outside fresh air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry, withered leaf tips on flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need this work done well.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Still water culture mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period; some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain leaf color luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always stand upright and upward.

How Hydroponic Flowers Safely Overwinter

How Hydroponic Flowers Overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues begin to necrose below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If several days of extreme low-temperature weather occur, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be satisfied.

Why Hydroponic Flowers Need Water Changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer; at the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; the reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and repotting with fresh soil once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, the water-change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic Method for Cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can endow blooming cyclamen plants with multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to select a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponic cyclamen. With the preparation work complete, you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water; you can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin of water, rinse the substrate off in the water, then rinse clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, avoiding damage to the cyclamen root system as much as possible. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container; add water, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain 4-6 weeks of normal growth and flowering. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination of cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic Method with Exposed Roots for Hoya

Hoya has always been soil-cultivated. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) few pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed.

The method of exposed-root hydroponics is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-planted hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest-damaged and diseased leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), place a few attractive river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the prepared hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water; third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the hoya head, half a milliliter each time, and thereafter inject once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There Is a Big Difference Between Water-Grown and Hydroponic Flowers

In recent years, some water-grown and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people for being fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and convenient to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-grown and hydroponic flowers are the same, that is, liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water growing generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on nutrients stored in themselves; during cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it, with no need to supply nutrients. The main flowers suitable for water growing include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-grown flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom brilliantly, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (lucky bamboo once every 7 to 10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight so that they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant root system fixed on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so hydroponic flowers are also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structures of plants suitable for hydroponics are suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazil wood, Dieffenbachia, clustered Xanthosoma, Monstera deliciosa, jewel plant, Tradescantia zebrina, Bryophyllum, and other plants.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers in 9 series, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed; root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-grown plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's water root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender and fresh than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is preparing the nutrient solution well. When preparing nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. Hydroponic flowers should have the nutrient solution added or changed once a week, and care should be taken to control the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The nutrient solution changed out can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief Introduction to Flower Hydroponic Techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: Characterized by the plant root system being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air for dissolved oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. An appropriate amount of nutrient solution is placed in a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag is changed to plastic film, laid on a grid frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside, wrapping the plant to form a dark internal space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system; the mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used; wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the degree that the inside of the bottle is not light-transmitting. After light blocking, it is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap the outside of the black bottle with a layer of white paper to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water cuttings to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: Small seedlings can have the nutrient solution changed once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change once a week during the summer peak growth season, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in non-growth seasons.

Ventilation: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be completely exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, ventilation can be omitted for more than 1 month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared by oneself; the formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Monopotassium phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; monopotassium phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL of water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple Hydroponic Methods for Flowers

1) Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it roots, sprouts, and grows into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node; the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

2) Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed by soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then convert to hydroponics. When washing roots, it is best to use running water. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water covering 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel; after one week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and the water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

3) Sucker removal method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple, with a high survival rate. Select a relatively large sucker, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, separate the sucker from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protecting the sucker's roots), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

4) Runner plantlet removal method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets, most of which have a small amount of fully developed roots. Spider plants and hanging bromeliads all have this characteristic. Using this characteristic of the flowers, picking off the formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, Clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Guangdong Dieffenbachia, Tradescantia spathacea, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, amaryllis, and gladiolus.

Guide to Summer Care Difficulties of Hydroponic Flowers

I. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers use non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added) to cultivate ornamental plants. At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly still water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/l; the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism is vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, which may cause root rot, withered branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire flower. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing severe heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water-Grown Silver-Edged Grass

II. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several easy-to-operate and effective methods.

1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution

Changing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, which can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, at most not exceeding 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, the root system should be patiently rinsed with clean water, withered roots and rotten roots removed, and aged roots shortened to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed, new nutrient solution should be changed immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers with relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times; after shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method should not be used, and the nutrient solution must be completely changed.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in still water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a miniature circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; when working, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is noticeably better than still water culture.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and changing the solution are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate into the vessel

If while cultivating hydroponic flowers there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put the sand head into the still water culture flower vessel to aerate (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen has a good effect.

III. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers for both foliage and flower appreciation. Such as Syngonium, white-edged Dieffenbachia, Spathiphyllum, Anthurium, bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, are slightly shade-tolerant, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and required environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shady either, lest the flower's photosynthesis be blocked, growth weakens, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture becomes thin. This causes the leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose luster.

IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast wind speed can damage the branches and leaves, ranging from curled leaves to scorched edges and withering. It should also be considered that the flower's temperature requirement is higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, and the environmental temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, it is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surfaces to increase environmental humidity, and place the flowers farther from the air conditioner outlet; if the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers suffer root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continuously rises, the water temperature will also rise, microbial cultivation accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, making the dissolved concentration too high, may cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in the Liliaceae plants Cordyline, Dracaena (fine-leaf dragon tree), and five-color dragon tree.

The following methods can be used for flowers with root rot to restore their growth:

1) Remove all rotten roots; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

(2) Immerse the trimmed flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

(3) Remove the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

(4) Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

(5) Change the water once every 1-2 days, replacing only with clean water and no nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can begin to emerge.

(6) Newly emerged roots should still be grown in clean water; once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate with nutrient solution.

Six: What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growth in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when temperatures are high, the container is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the nutrient solution is left unchanged for too long, algae can proliferate massively. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, degrading the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, promptly pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, Chinese scientists are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of these "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can eliminate algae growth.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to cover the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

Seven: What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, belonging to a soilless cultivation method, in which the flower roots are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), also known as nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six, or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers of different varieties are cultivated at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements, inorganic salts in ionic form, a wide range of applications, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages, non-toxic, harmless, with pH value and ion concentration favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and select products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution or only clean water for cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, silver vase (Spathiphyllum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini monstera (Rhaphidophora tetrasperma), red gem (Philodendron), and Philodendron species, using nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental value. For coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough to safely pass the summer.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown in hydroponic conditions has changed, becoming looser and with larger cells than soil-cultivated roots. The cell walls become thinner, directly absorbing water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; excessively high concentration is harmful to flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of micromoles per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

Eight: Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: (1) Select varieties closely related to wetland plants. (2) Select flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as Syngonium podophyllum, mini monstera (Rhaphidophora tetrasperma), red gem Philodendron (Philodendron imbe), green giant (Philodendron 'Green Giant'), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a high survival rate when converted from soil to hydroponic cultivation in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, with few root rot issues. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots also emerge from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponic cultivation, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it. Use a larger container for cultivation, change the water once daily. After five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. Once the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic cultivation method for lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana)

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. Plant form slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves long lanceolate, dark green, leaf petiole sheath-like. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, with yellow longitudinal stripes on the leaves. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-striped bamboo plant, with a compact plant and silver-white longitudinal stripes on the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperature and humidity; wintering temperature should be maintained above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch; during the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: Suitable for sufficient diffused light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic cultivation method for anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum)

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as Anzu flower, lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes short, leaves growing from the base of the plant. Leaves round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from leaf axils. Spathe upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet; spadix yellow, straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. Suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; wintering requires above 10°C.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and semi-shaded environment.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted plant root-washing method

Hydroponic cultivation method for azalea (Rhododendron)

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea (Rhododendron indicum); the soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, abundant flowering; large flower diameter, few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, making it a cultivation method worthy of vigorous promotion.

1. Substrate preparation

Azalea roots are very fine, requiring a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, 1 part coal cinder, mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize with 0.1% carbendazim solution, evenly mix into the substrate, cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse multiple times with clean water, air-dry, mix evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, cover with plastic film for one month, then it can be used for potting.

2. Nutrient solution preparation

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, with pH controlled at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer, can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 L water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g disodium EDTA, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 L water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 mL trace element stock solution to 1 L standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 L water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the watering amount is generally more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist; at this time, it is during bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a larger amount of fertilizer, so apply full-strength nutrient solution once every 10 days or so. From March until the buds break, spray foliar fertilizer once every 15 days or so. After flowering, water demand is high; besides daily watering, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high; it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the dog days (hottest summer period), pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spraying water on the leaves; fertilizer application can be reduced to applying nutrient solution once every 20 days or so. After autumn cools, gradually increase the fertilizer amount, applying full-strength nutrient solution once every half month, and spraying foliar fertilizer 1-2 times, to promote healthy flower bud growth. After winter begins, azalea physiological activity is weak; do not fertilize, just water appropriately depending on the substrate's dryness. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic cultivation method for broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa)

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems cylindrical, unbranched, jointed like bamboo, with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves clustered at the stem top, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environments. Suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; in winter it should be maintained above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally by division combined with repotting. Select a large, dense clump, first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, try to cut as few roots as possible, and keep each divided plant with a certain plant shape. Then repot, water thoroughly, place in a semi-shaded, humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After growth resumes, it can be transferred to normal care.

Sowing: after seeds mature in autumn, sow immediately in pots, move into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves are likely to occur; when ventilation is poor, parasites breed.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Suitable for potted plant root-washing. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture, not prone to root rot after hydroponic conversion, but new roots emerge slowly, taking as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic cultivation method for purple velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca)

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, multi-branched stems. Leaves opposite, long ovate. Leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with goose-down-like purple-red fine hairs. The purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant colors, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment; direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. Wintering temperature should be maintained above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, insert them, and place in a shaded, humid place; roots will form in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch the tips promptly to promote lateral branch sprouting.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water; water roots will grow in just over 10 days. But during high summer temperatures, root rot is likely.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly; when branches reach an appropriate height, pinch the tips promptly to promote new shoot sprouting.

Hydroponic cultivation method for parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut palm, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short plant. Stems slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves clustered at the stem top, pinnate compound leaves, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, glossy.

Habits

Prefers warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. Suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C; at 13°C it enters dormancy; the minimum wintering temperature is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm; when the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted plant root-washing method. New roots can grow within a few days after washing.

Hydroponic cultivation method for cactus (Echinopsis tubiflora)

We know that cactus is favored by people for its unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but cactus cultivation using traditional methods has problems of dirtiness and difficult management. More people fail to manage fertilizer and water well, causing their beloved plants to die. Now cactus cultivation has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, select a cactus with a sturdy body. The key is to select a plant with the lower root stem part protruding downward; cacti grafted onto three-ribbed sword (Hylocereus undatus) are easier to grow hydroponically.

2: Processing

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots at the lower part of the body, requiring a flat cut. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root stem with clean water, and air-dry in a dry place for 3 days, so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponic cultivation

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or modify a mineral water bottle, fix the selected and processed cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, and add nutrient solution below, with the nutrient solution level just touching the root stem. In production, we recommend making a glass water trough 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root stem). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle and invert it; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed through the cut bottle mouth, then place it in the flat body containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-ribbed sword into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all three-ribbed swords just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Purchase two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and place them in the container, to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby speeding up the emergence of water roots. (You can also purchase a small submersible pump with a suction cup specially designed for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and power it on to achieve flowing, oxygenated circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus in an environment with relatively strong diffused light, maintain the temperature above 20°C; generally water roots emerge in 3-7 days. After water roots appear, immediately replace the nutrient solution.

Note:

During the induction process, do not spray water on the cactus body, as it can easily cause the body to rot and necrose.

What should be noted when growing clivia (Clivia miniata) hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method; when cultivating at home, note the following:

(1) Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the plant size; the mouth diameter should not be too large.

(2) Cultivation solution. Nutrient solution or clean water can be used, but when cultivating in clean water, foliar fertilization should be noted to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

(3) Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes; the frequency depends on weather conditions. When the temperature is lower, change about once a month; when the temperature is higher, change once every 10 days. When changing the solution, note to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow hippeastrum (Hippeastrum) hydroponically

In early winter, select one or several large hippeastrum bulbs that have flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal white and green, and soak in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulb out, wash off the mushy substance at the cut with clean water, dry in the shade, and place into a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the processed hippeastrum bulb. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must be left standing for several days). The water depth should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower container. Finally, place in a bright indoor location. Keep room temperature at around 10°C; in about 7-10 days, leaves and roots begin to grow. The water in the pot should always be maintained at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer should be supplemented promptly; every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulb with roots into a flower pot for conventional care. In this way, hydroponically treated bulbs bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted hippeastrum, exactly during the summer flowering gap period.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technology that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to cultivate crops. Most hydroponic plants, in order to fix the plant and increase air content, also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc., as solid substrate, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since the history of human cultivation began, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word agriculture is a combination of Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation), forming Agriculture. In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in garden soil leachate grew fastest, thus concluding that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise soilless cultivation experiments, successfully cultivating plants with artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are divided into substrate hydroponic flowers and non-substrate hydroponic flowers. Substrate hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc., mentioned earlier; non-substrate hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomized hydroponic flowers, nutrient film drip irrigation, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if measured only by aesthetics, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful, and simple, so hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when using inert substrate as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc., in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc., to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements in real time. However, in a home environment, these conditions are difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless cultivation without substrate. Without substrate, plants are prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot roots, not to emit odor, to have no off-flavors, and to grow normally even when oxygen is insufficient. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botanist, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and easy for anyone to learn. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies regard their nutrient solution technology as their top secret technology, so nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference materials and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environments can be known with just a try; you only need to see whether the displayed plants grow vigorously and whether water roots grow, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Most flowers go dormant below 5-8°C, and their tissues will necrose below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature stays above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally survive the winter safely. In southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not drop below 5°C; if a few days of extreme low temperatures occur, you can solve the problem by creating a small local microclimate with a 60-watt incandescent lamp placed above the flowers. In northern China, because most indoor spaces have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be ensured.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be grown from certain specific flower species?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. However, in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, at present only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown; in homes with a balcony, the range of suitable varieties is somewhat greater.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has samples of fish being kept in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than 1 liter are suitable for keeping fish, and because the volume is limited, fish species should also be chosen carefully. You should choose fish species with relatively strong adaptability, such as goldfish and small koi. Some fish with strong aggression or destructiveness are also unsuitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even keeping them in a dedicated aquarium is already difficult to succeed with, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. When feeding, it is exactly the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, with no difference at all.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of the water, thereby facilitating the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not suffer from oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot, there is no need to install aeration equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use. When diluting, under normal circumstances tap water fully meets the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be carried out to understand the composition of mineral content in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of the plants.
During dilution, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will make the chlorine in tap water evaporate quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change and causing the plants to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction with sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water: in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and to adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. In contrast, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow in a more chaotic way, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to come into direct contact with the water and a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week the phenomenon of roots growing toward the water will appear at the bottom of the bonsai. At this time you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can take a bonsai that has already grown full of water roots out of its pot, fix the plant with a planting basket, and decorate it with stones or ornaments, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clear water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need to have their water changed?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become less and less. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution after growing for a period of time. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers; the reason soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and repotting once a year is also this. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or show poor growth?
Answer: It may be caused by your interval between solution changes being too long, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or light that is too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then you should see whether the nutrient solution level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest you had better go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing true from false hydroponic flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to maintain the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, after witnessing everything I cannot help but air some grievances. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests, but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. At present, during the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and after washing the roots, plants can be kept in water for a period of time by directly soaking them. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can be kept in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work costing several dozen or several hundred to buy and take home is only a fleeting flash in the pan, not only harming consumers' interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I will use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After the roots are washed, they can be directly soaked in water, and for a time no adverse reaction can be seen from the plant's appearance. But it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water; they can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul, and rot. For other plants with somewhat stronger terrestrial habits, this method simply cannot work at all, so this is the main reason why at present they can only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be better and more honest to call "deception liquid." It is simply impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market, and then franchising would truly have meaning. But the current kind of franchising can be said to be swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking in water, something even a fool could copy at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower stores can operate in the same way, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is equivalent to throwing it away. Genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-grown seedlings after root washing; it would be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Tip: Araceae plants can also be kept in water for a period of time after root washing and soaking in water in late autumn, winter, and early spring. Everyone might as well try it; there is no need for deception liquid at all.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also investigated several countries abroad with relatively advanced hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of all kinds, a jumble of the genuine and the fake. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleaned out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes sharp and not be induced by deception liquid.

How to distinguish true from false hydroponic flowers

True and false hydroponic flowers are actually the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Starting only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some conventional soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological unsuitability before long, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish true from false in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge true from false by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and unlike roots in soil, they do not have distinctions such as main root, lateral root, capillary root, and root hair; that is, they do not exist in a multi-order branched secondary root state. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots. Few branch orders and a simple root structure are its most obvious characteristics. In addition, for some plants that originally had a radicle, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly; that is, the proportion of roots is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and well developed, like a beard.

B. Judge true from false by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties whose roots show their natural color, their water roots are still noticeably lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, and pale brown. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cells have undergone no or little suberization and lignification from cell wall thickening.

C. Judge true from false by root integrity: Roots induced by aquatic conditions undergo new growth and differentiation starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in the water environment, so they have root integrity. In contrast, some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully rinsed, still always have slight damage or serious residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge true from false by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not developed adaptability to water, will under anaerobic conditions carry out anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, this appears as a turbid, non-clear sensation; that is, the water quality deteriorates or becomes foul, and then the root system rots until the seedling dies.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge true from false: In particular, many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene show, after induction, leaf insertion angles noticeably more flat than soil-washed seedlings grown in soil; that is, they grow more upward and the angle increases, or they even droop.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from the fact that hydroponic flowers have exactly the same requirements for environmental factors such as light, temperature, and humidity as soil cultivation, their requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen are worlds apart in terms of management -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source, and generally tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions. If the content of one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have appropriate pH, which facilitates nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. The use of organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers is even less permissible. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their root systems are commonly seen growing in reverse and extending toward the liquid surface in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy methods to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution. 2. Vibration aeration: fix the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the vessel with the other hand more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or aeration pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes robust flower growth.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish kept together and a combination of motion and stillness, are the first intuitive impression. The earlier concept in China first sprouted around the beginning of the 21st century (although some people earlier also grew some Araceae plants, lucky bamboo, and similar easily water-grown plants in water, that concept does not belong to today's popular "hydroponic flowers" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and institutions with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it became popular from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China, with some providing technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some opening franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, this added fuel to the hype surrounding the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became victims of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, when the great wave washed away the sand, those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still remain in such a chaotic market tide, and those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the current uneven quality of the hydroponic flower market, this article provides a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

Two, What are true hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, planting plants and flowers on top (at present, the range of varieties for hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and so on), and keeping a few cute small fish below, these are hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, true hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means, so that the physiological characteristics of their root systems change, giving them water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and only after they can adapt to long-term cultivation in water can they become true hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, How to identify true hydroponic flowers?

Judging from sensory impressions:
Report on the current status of hydroponic flower technology. One, Introduction:
For a successful true hydroponic plant, the plant root system after induction and domestication should have white, elegant roots with many fibrous roots, and be very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants. The roots of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root color has its own unique color, such as red-flowered loropetalum, whose roots, branches, and stem sections are all dark red after induction! There are also some plants whose roots, after soil is removed, are nearly white in color!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and was placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it still cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from a technical perspective:

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, only so-called "induction liquid," "domestication liquid," and "nutrient solution" are needed, and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, with some even saying that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, before long the roots will undergo anaerobic respiration, thus fermenting and rotting. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects breed, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of water roots is not something that nutrient solution alone can fully accomplish and realize. It requires a combination of biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means. Only after a relatively long period of cultivation and full adaptation to the water environment can they become professional, true hydroponic flowers!

2) Does it have relatively strong artistic combination level and ability?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass vase container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant roots, and the perfect combination and matching of ornaments such as fish and aquatic plants in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, aside from natural sensory impression, relatively strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor powerful and branded producers as supply sources, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely just using soil-cultivated plants washed at the roots to make "hydroponic flowers"!

Examining from the varieties:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae, such as Alocasia, Philodendron, lucky bamboo, Monstera, and Rohdea japonica, which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and ordinary methods can achieve cultivation in water. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics for all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polyscias, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, and so on! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it is definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Examining from time:

Time is the ultimate and only standard for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting flash in the pan, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within a few hours after washing away the soil-cultivated root system. Before many days pass, the flowers bloom and fade! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
Four, How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and information transmission to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to leave no room for so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology-transfer companies that operate by renting a few offices inside national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the veteran cadre bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, and that move from place to place after one job; and also to deprive malicious sellers who transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of their deceptive market, and moreover so that you can learn these kinds of true technology.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes sharp, be more vigilant, look at several more companies, and compare more. You must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to visit a franchisee to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use "medical shills," "academic shills," "housing shills," and "wine shills," with the skill of "master trickster" Zhao Benshan, to fool you, making it impossible to guard against!}} You must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training ability, and relevant certificates. You must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Besides distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product route, in fact, everyone only needs to be a little more vigilant to see through many speculators one by one. The following points of experience, several types


 How to fertilize hydroponic flowers through the leaves

Static hydroponics is a cultivation method under root oxygen deficiency conditions, and it will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-nozzle spray bottle should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer solution should not be allowed to run off. The backs of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growing period, and hydroponic flowers can be made to flourish with abundant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as calla lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Control technology for chrysanthemum white rust

   Chrysanthemums are loved by people for their beautiful appearance, bright colors, and rich fragrance. Growing flowers can cultivate people's sentiments, enrich cultural life, and improve physical and mental health. At the same time, some varieties of chrysanthemums grown can also be eaten or used as medicine, achieving two benefits at once. However, in the process of cultivating and growing chrysanthemums, they often suffer from the invasion of many diseases and insects, causing abnormal morphology, incomplete or withered branches and leaves, or even plant death, thereby reducing the ornamental and medicinal value of the flowers and causing relatively large economic losses. In order to ensure that chrysanthemums can grow normally and develop robustly during cultivation, bloom beautiful flowers, and safeguard the medicinal value of chrysanthemums, it is necessary to strengthen the prevention and control of diseases and insect pests.

   In prevention and control, the principle of giving priority to prevention and carrying out comprehensive management should be followed. That is, on the one hand, according to the habits of the chrysanthemums being grown and differences in local climate and geographical conditions, suitable varieties should be selected for cultivation, the period when white rust occurs should be grasped in time, and before the disease causes harm or before it causes obvious harm, different prevention and control methods should be adopted according to the occurrence, harm characteristics, and epidemic patterns of white rust, and effective protective measures should be taken according to local and current specific conditions and local conditions. On the other hand, the spread and expansion of the disease should be stopped as far as possible. Comprehensive management is not a simple arrangement and patchwork of various prevention and control methods; various methods should be coordinated, each making up for the shortcomings of the others and cooperating with one another, so as to form a relatively complete and organically combined prevention and control system.

   One, Symptoms. First, very small discolored white spots appear on the back of infected leaves, then they rise into grayish-white pustule-like protrusions, and the waxy powder gradually turns pale brown. On the front of the leaf there are pale yellow spots, and they are slightly sunken, pale yellow to yellow-green. When the disease is severe, the entire leaf is covered with disease spots, causing the leaves to die early.

   Two, Pathogen. The pathogen of white rust is the telial stage of Puccinia horiana, with telial stacks born on the back of leaves, protruding, grayish-white to light yellowish-brown, 2-5 micrometers in diameter; teliospores long elliptical x micrometers. Yellow-brown, two-celled, apex rounded or pointed, stalk colorless or pale yellow.

   Three, Disease pattern: The pathogen overwinters as teliospores on diseased dead leaves of infected plants. In the second spring they are released to produce basidiospores, which spread with airflow and infect leaves. The germination and infection temperature of urediniospores is 16-27°C; below 6°C or above 31°C, infection cannot occur. A water film on the leaves is a necessary condition for spore germination. In Xishuangbanna, Yunnan, winter temperatures are exactly 10-25°C, and this disease almost has no phenomenon of overwintering as teliospores; instead, it is suitable for urediniospore germination and infection and occurs and causes harm. For open-field cultivation, the disease is severe on cloudy days and rainy weather; in greenhouses, excessive humidity makes plants susceptible to the disease, and if prevention and control are not timely, it spreads and causes harm rapidly.

   Four, Prevention and control methods

   1. Cultivation disease prevention: remove diseased residues, choose fertile and deep soil for planting, keep the aboveground parts of the plants dry frequently, and do not spray water from above the plants. Strengthen management in greenhouses, pay attention to ventilation. Ensure light penetration and avoid dense planting; control water and fertilizer, and do not make the soil too moist.

   2. Chemical control. (1) When transplanting seedlings, disinfect the soil properly, or when transplanting, combine with watering the roots with 70% black shank clear 500 times solution once. (2) In the early stage of disease, spray with 15% triadimefon wettable powder 1000 times solution, or spray with 49% Jintian No. 9 600 times solution. In severe cases, apply once more at an interval of 7-10 days, or spray with 20% triadimefon 200 times solution for prevention and control, spraying once every 10 days. Because continuous multiple use of triadimefon or too high a concentration can cause phytotoxicity, shortening the stem internodes of chrysanthemum plants, causing leaves to become deformed and thickened, flowers to become smaller, and plants to be burned to death, the above two chemicals can be used alternately.