Hibiscus Propagation Method: A Detailed Guide to High-Position Multi-Head Cut Grafting
Hibiscus, also known as Chinese hibiscus and fringed hibiscus, is a flowering plant in the Malvaceae (see details) family and Hibiscus genus. Because of its rich and vivid flower colors, it is loved by many gardening enthusiasts. There are many methods of artificially propagating hibiscus, and the high-position multi-head cut grafting method can gather different hibiscus varieties onto a single plant, improving the ornamental value of the hibiscus.
Hibiscus
First, select a robustly growing golden-yellow hibiscus as the rootstock, and choose multiple one-year-old branches on the plant as rootstock branches for grafting, then cut them off at a suitable height. Next, on one side of the rootstock branch, make a downward straight cut at the cut end where there is a small amount of xylem. Then select well-grown branches of scarlet hibiscus and pink hibiscus as scions, make a slanted cut on one side of the lower end of the scion, and shave off a little of the bark layer on the other side. The prepared scion generally should retain one or two buds, then quickly insert the scion into the cut in the rootstock branch, align the cambium, and tie it tightly with plastic tape.
After it survives, appropriately prune away the excess branches of the golden-yellow hibiscus (rootstock), so that the scarlet hibiscus and pink hibiscus can better obtain nutrients and water from the golden-yellow hibiscus plant for growth and development. Through pruning and shaping, a spectacular and wonderful flowering plant is formed, with flowers of diverse colors set off against green leaves. Especially this double-petaled, vividly colored large-flowered hibiscus is even more beautiful and endearing.
The High-Position Multi-Head Cut Grafting Propagation Method for Hibiscus
Hibiscus is a flowering plant that many gardening enthusiasts greatly enjoy. Because hibiscus has rich flower colors, grafting can gather hibiscus varieties of different colors onto a single plant, and it is a propagation method that many gardening enthusiasts choose. What the editor wants to introduce to you is the high-position multi-head cut grafting method for hibiscus. This grafting method is relatively convenient to operate and also has a relatively high survival rate.
Hibiscus
First, select a robustly growing golden-yellow hibiscus as the rootstock, and choose multiple one-year-old branches on the plant as rootstock branches for grafting, then cut them off at a suitable height. Next, on one side of the rootstock branch, make a downward straight cut at the cut end where there is a small amount of xylem. Then select well-grown branches of scarlet hibiscus and pink hibiscus as scions, make a slanted cut on one side of the lower end of the scion, and shave off a little of the bark layer on the other side. The prepared scion generally should retain one or two buds, then quickly insert the scion into the cut in the rootstock branch, align the cambium, and tie it tightly with plastic tape.
After it survives, appropriately prune away the excess branches of the golden-yellow hibiscus (rootstock), so that the scarlet hibiscus and pink hibiscus can better obtain nutrients and water from the golden-yellow hibiscus plant for growth and development. Through pruning and shaping, a spectacular and wonderful flowering plant is formed, with flowers of diverse colors set off against green leaves. Especially this double-petaled, vividly colored large-flowered hibiscus is even more beautiful and endearing.
To carry out grafting, the grafting period must also be well controlled to improve the survival rate. Generally speaking, grafting can be done in spring, summer, autumn, and even late winter, but it is best to choose to do it when the temperature most favorable for callus formation of that variety arrives, so that the time from grafting to survival can be shortened to the minimum. In this way, the specific grafting period for each variety often requires considering the temperature needed for callus formation, and it must also be flexibly controlled because of differences in climatic conditions in various places.
For branch grafting of hibiscus, late spring and early summer are best. Those who are interested might as well give it a try.
How to Grow Hibiscus (Chinese Hibiscus)
Hello everyone. Below is an introduction to the home cultivation method for hibiscus (Chinese hibiscus). First, here is a brief introduction.Hibiscus aliases: fringed hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus . Because hibiscus is easy to cultivate and has a long ornamental period, people in many countries greatly love it. Malaysia in Asia, Sudan in Africa, Fiji in Oceania, and Hawaii in the United States in North America have respectively designated it as a national flower or state flower. This shows the status of hibiscus in Asia, Africa, and other continents.Hibiscus family and genus: Malvaceae, Hibiscus.
Hibiscus Habits
It is native to our country and distributed in Fujian, Guangdong, Guangxi, Yunnan, and Sichuan provinces and regions. It grows in sparse mountain forests, is easy to grow, has strong stress resistance, and has very few pests and diseases. It likes warm, humid climates, is not cold-tolerant, and requires sufficient sunlight. It grows well in areas with an average temperature above lO°C. It likes light and is not shade-tolerant. It is suitable for slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter with a pH value of 6.5--7. In the south it is planted in the ground as a flowering hedge, and in areas north of the Yangtze River basin it is grown in pots in greenhouses.
Hibiscus Propagation Methods:
Cutting and grafting propagation are commonly used.
Cutting propagation: carried out from May to October, with the highest survival rate during the plum rain season. In winter, carry it out in a greenhouse. The best cuttings are one-year-old semi-lignified branches, 10 cm long. Remove the lower leaves, keep the top leaves, make the cut smooth, and insert into a sand bed, maintaining relatively high air humidity, with a room temperature of 18-21°C. Treating the base of the cuttings with 0.3%-0.4% indolebutyric acid for 1-2 seconds can shorten the rooting period. Transplant into pots when the roots are 3-4 cm long. Under conditions of 70%-80% relative humidity, rooting generally occurs after 20 days, and they can be potted after about 1 month. Generally, they can bloom in the same year. Generally, it is advisable to choose robust two-year-old branches,
Hibiscus grafting propagation: carried out in spring and autumn. It is mostly used for hibiscus varieties that are difficult to root by cutting or root slowly, especially double-petaled varieties with a low cutting survival rate. Use branch grafting or bud grafting, with single-petaled hibiscus as the rootstock. Grafted seedlings sprout branches and bloom in the same year.
Netizen opinion: My hibiscuses are all water-propagated. Every spring when pruning, the cut branches are placed in water, and after roots grow they are planted in soil... They survive very easily.
Hibiscus Cultivation and Management:
Potted hibiscus commonly uses a 15-20 cm pot. When the seedling is 20 cm tall, pinch off the growing tip to promote branching, and thereafter use tip pinching to control the height of the hibiscus and achieve a symmetrical and beautiful potted seedling. Hibiscus is especially tolerant of fertilizer. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month or use "Huiyou" 15-15-30 special fertilizer for potted flowers. Stop fertilizing in winter. Repot every spring, and prune and shape as needed. Seedlings can be lightly pruned, while old plants should be heavily pruned, to maintain a beautiful crown and promote lush branches and abundant flowers.
For potted hibiscus, repot every spring and carry out pruning and shaping. Hibiscus is relatively tolerant of fertilizer. During the growing period, fertilize once a month, and during the flowering period apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 2-3 additional times. Insufficient light makes flower buds prone to dropping, flowers smaller, and flower colors dull. In winter in the Nanjing area, it must be moved indoors to overwinter.
Hibiscus Pest and Disease Control:
Leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold commonly occur, and can be sprayed with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. Pests include aphids, red spiders, and slug moth caterpillars, which can be killed by spraying with 10% chlormephos emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution.
Aphids, scale insects, and sooty mold, etc. Pests can be controlled by manual capture or spraying with dimethoate at 1000 times dilution; the control method for sooty mold is mainly to improve environmental conditions, and it can be solved mainly by ensuring sufficient light and good ventilation.
Aphids on young branches and leaves and scale insects on branches and trunks. Both of these pests can be killed by spraying with 40% dimethoate at 1000 times dilution. When a small number of scale insects is found, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush.
In the south, hibiscus is mostly planted beside ponds, in front of pavilions, along roadsides, and by walls, blooming continuously all year round and exceptionally lively. In the Yangtze River basin and the north, it is often used in pots to decorate balconies or small courtyards, and under conditions of sufficient light, the ornamental period is especially long. It is also one of the main flowering potted plants displayed in public places in summer and autumn. During storage and transportation of hibiscus, if there is low light, overly dry soil, and the presence of ethylene, all can cause flower buds and flowers to drop. Potted hibiscus must be sprayed with 0.5-0.8 mmol silver thiosulfate solution 2 weeks before storage and transportation, with a storage and transportation temperature of 20-21°C and relative humidity of 80%, and it can tolerate a dark environment for no more than 3 days.
Key points to note: Hibiscus is a summer flower with brilliant colors, but sometimes home cultivation does not grasp its habits, and flower bud drop is likely to occur during the summer flowering period. In northern China, because the climate is relatively cold, it blooms only once in the summer of that year. According to the author's practice and experience in cultivating hibiscus, to keep hibiscus from dropping buds during the flowering period and to keep it blooming continuously, attention should be paid to the following issues:
1. Pot selection and watering. For potted hibiscus, it is best to use an unglazed clay pot or wooden bucket (pot). These two kinds of flower pots have good air permeability, making it convenient for the hibiscus root system to breathe and absorb water and fertilizer. Although the flowering period of hibiscus is relatively long (meaning it can continuously develop buds, and the number of buds is very large, laying the foundation for a long flowering period), the flowering period of each branch's flower is very short. In summer, when the weather is hot and dry, it can only bloom for a little more than one day. On cloudy and rainy days and when the temperature drops somewhat in late summer and early autumn, each flower can only bloom for 2 to 3 days. Because hibiscus develops many buds, it needs plenty of water, plenty of fertilizer, and sufficient sunlight. Especially during the peak flowering period in summer, water once to twice a day according to temperature and the dryness or moisture of the potting soil, and water thoroughly when dry. Prevent half-watering and excessive watering that cause water shortage and root rot. At noon, spray water on the leaves and around the flower pot to lower the temperature and maintain air humidity for favorable growth. Never spray water on the flowers, because with the blazing sun at midsummer, it can damage the flowers and affect the ornamental effect.
2. How to fertilize. It is best to fertilize with homemade fertilizer-alum water, which is well absorbed and takes effect quickly. Use a plastic bucket with a lid, pour into the bucket waste such as intestines from killing chickens and fish that cannot be eaten, together with wastewater from washing chickens, fish, and meat and rice-washing water, add an appropriate amount of black alum (ferrous sulfate), screw the lid tightly, and ferment. In summer it can be fermented into fertilizer-alum water in 2 months, and in autumn in 3 months. When using it, be sure to add water to dilute it, and it must not be too concentrated, to prevent root damage. If you are afraid that the fertilizer-alum water has an odor, you can put an appropriate amount of edible vinegar or orange peel into the bucket to reduce the odor. You can also directly buy ready-made bagged acidic flower fertilizer at the flower market, put it into the flower pot, shallowly bury it in the soil, and then water with clean water to eliminate the odor.
3. Ensure safe overwintering. The reason hibiscus cultivation in northern homes often fails is mostly because it is not overwintered safely and freezes to death. Because hibiscus is a southern tropical summer flower, it likes sunlight and is not cold-tolerant. The northern climate is cold, and home flower growing has no conditions for building a greenhouse, so whether hibiscus can safely overwinter is the key. When the temperature drops to 6°C, the hibiscus must be moved indoors to prevent frost damage. You can cover the hibiscus with a plastic bag and poke a few small holes in the plastic bag to let it breathe. Note that it is enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist, because hibiscus has the habit of winter dormancy and must not be watered too much, to prevent artificially caused frost damage.
4. How to prune branches and remove buds. After spring begins, the temperature gradually rises and hibiscus begins to sprout. To keep hibiscus blooming continuously in summer, attention must be paid to pruning its branches and removing buds in time. In home cultivation of potted hibiscus, it is necessary both to prevent the plant shape from becoming too large and too tall, making it difficult to move and affecting placement, and to make its branches lush and bloom more. This is a contradiction. The best way to solve this problem is to cut the main stem of the hibiscus back when it emerges about 10 cm above the soil, retain 3 to 5 main branches, and retain 2 to 3 branchlets on each main branch, pruning it into a shrub-like form. This can make the hibiscus branches full and lush with many buds, laying the foundation for continuous blooming. Second, buds must be removed in time. Every bud that hibiscus sprouts in spring can develop into a flowering branch. At this time, buds must be removed in time; otherwise, letting them develop will cause disordered branch growth, thin and leggy growth, dispersed nutrients, and few and small flowers. The specific requirements for bud removal are usually: remove diseased and weak buds and retain thick and strong buds; remove overlapping buds and retain sparse buds; remove inner buds and retain outer buds.
Appendix: Grafting of a Single Hibiscus Plant with Multiple Colors
Hibiscus is also known as Chinese hibiscus and fringed hibiscus. It is a flowering plant in the Malvaceae family and Hibiscus genus. The flowers are large and vividly colored, with rich colors. The author applied the high-position multi-head cut grafting method and successfully gathered hibiscus varieties of different colors onto a single plant, greatly improving the ornamental value.
High-position multi-head cut grafting process: First, select a robustly growing golden-yellow hibiscus as the rootstock, and choose multiple one-year-old branches on the plant as rootstock branches for grafting, then cut them off at a suitable height. Next, on one side of the rootstock branch, make a downward straight cut at the cut end where there is a small amount of xylem. Then select well-grown branches of scarlet hibiscus and pink hibiscus as scions, make a slanted cut on one side of the lower end of the scion, and shave off a little of the bark layer on the other side. The prepared scion generally should retain one or two buds, then quickly insert the scion into the cut in the rootstock branch, align the cambium, and tie it tightly with plastic tape. After it survives, appropriately prune away the excess branches of the golden-yellow hibiscus (rootstock), so that the scarlet hibiscus and pink hibiscus can better obtain nutrients and water from the golden-yellow hibiscus plant for growth and development. Through pruning and shaping, a spectacular and wonderful flowering plant is formed, with flowers of diverse colors set off against green leaves. Especially this double-petaled, vividly colored large-flowered hibiscus is even more beautiful and endearing.
To carry out grafting, the grafting period must also be well controlled to improve the survival rate. Generally speaking, grafting can be done in spring, summer, autumn, and even late winter, but it is best to choose to do it when the temperature most favorable for callus formation of that variety arrives, so that the time from grafting to survival can be shortened to the minimum. In this way, the specific grafting period for each variety often requires considering the temperature needed for callus formation, and it must also be flexibly controlled because of differences in climatic conditions in various places. For branch grafting of hibiscus, late spring and early summer are best. Those who are interested might as well give it a try. Using high-position grafting technology is a very applicable technical method for the breeding of flowers and the combination of flowers of different species and genera. In practice, the author has carried out some grafting of flowers of different species and genera, such as the grafting of cotton rose and Platanus, as well as the grafting of multi-colored Bougainvillea, all of which were successful.