What to do when Ranunculus asiaticus gets mosaic disease? Symptoms and control methods
Ranunculus asiaticus is a fairly common ornamental flower for flower beds, but improper cultivation can cause mosaic disease in Ranunculus asiaticus. The editor will introduce the symptoms and control methods of mosaic disease in Ranunculus asiaticus for you; flower lovers in need can learn about it.
Ranunculus asiaticus (detailed introduction)
Ranunculus asiaticus is a perennial herbaceous flower with a short stature, an exquisite and graceful form, and rich, brilliant flower colors. It is an ideal flower for spring potted display, arranging open-ground flower beds and flower borders, dotting lawns, and for cut flower production. However, when it is afflicted by mosaic disease, chlorotic spots appear on the leaves, and in severe cases the plant grows and develops poorly. Control measures should be taken promptly once it is discovered.
Control methods: 1. Use healthy seedlings; do not propagate by division from diseased plants. 2. Spray insecticides promptly to control aphids. 3. Heat-sterilize flower-cutting blades or wash them clean with detergent.
Ranunculus asiaticus (L.) Lepech Ranunculus asiaticus illustrated guide: how to grow Ranunculus asiaticus / how to propagate Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus profileRanunculus asiaticus (L.) Lepech
How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus and points to note: an introduction to Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family and the genus Ranunculus. It has rich flower colors, mostly double or semi-double, with a flower shape resembling a tree peony but smaller, the flower diameter generally 8cm~1ocm; the leaves resemble celery leaves, so it is often called celery flower.
It is native to southeastern Europe and southwestern Asia. In 1596 the British introduced it for artificial cultivation, and it is very common in gardens and cut flowers.
It is now cultivated in many countries, with more cultivation in the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, France, the United States, and Japan, and many cut flower and potted varieties have been bred. China began introducing it from the Netherlands, Japan and other countries in the 1990s, and it is cultivated in major cities as cut flowers, potted plants, and spring flower exhibition flowers.
Ranunculus asiaticus is native to the Mediterranean coast, and has been widely planted in European countries such as France and Israel; it is currently cultivated in countries around the world. It is more suitable for forcing cultivation in winter and spring; its flower colors are bright and rich, with five to several dozen petals, a flower diameter of 6~9cm, flowers in red, white, orange and other colors, and it is divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types.
Morphological characteristics of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus has an exquisite and graceful plant form and rich, brilliant flower colors, and is a perennial herbaceous flower.
The plant height is 20 cm~40 cm, the tuberous roots are spindle-shaped, often several clustered at the root crown; the stem is single or sparsely branched, hairy; the basal leaves are broadly ovate with long petioles, the stem leaves are sessile and are 2-pinnate 3-foliolate compound leaves; the flowers are solitary or several terminal, with a flower diameter of 3 cm~4 cm; the flowering period is April~May.
Ranunculus asiaticus is a perennial tuberous-rooted herb; the tuberous roots are spindle-shaped, 1.5-2.5 cm long and less than 1 cm thick, often several clustered at the root crown; the plant height of Ranunculus asiaticus is 20-40 cm; the basal leaves are elliptical with long petioles, the stem leaves have pinnate lobes and almost no petioles, resembling celery leaves; the flowers are solitary at the branch tips, in white, yellow, water red, bright red, purple, etc., with very rich flower colors, and the normal flowering period is 4-5 months. Ranunculus asiaticus likes a cool, semi-shaded environment, is relatively cold-tolerant, not heat-tolerant, and afraid of direct sunlight; in most parts of China it enters dormancy in summer. It requires a sandy loam rich in humus and with good drainage as the cultivation soil.
Underground it has small spindle-shaped tubers, about 2 cm long and 1 cm in diameter. The aboveground clump is about 30 cm tall, with slender, upright stems, few branches, and bristles. The root leaves have long petioles, are elliptical, mostly trifoliolate, with coarse blunt serrations.
The stem leaves are nearly sessile, finely pinnately lobed, with 5 to 6 lobes, and the leaf margins also have blunt serrations. A single flower is borne at the branch tip, or a very long pedicel is produced from the leaf axil; the corolla is full and round, the petals are flat and spreading, 8 per whorl, overlapping in staggered layers, with a flower diameter of 3 cm to 4 cm or larger, often several clustered at the root crown. In spring the aboveground stem is produced, single or sparsely branched. The stem leaves have no petioles, the basal leaves have long petioles, shaped like celery. Each flowering scape has 1~4 flowers; Ranunculus asiaticus is divided into potted types and cut flower types. There are double-petaled and semi-double-petaled types, with rich flower colors including white, yellow, red, water red, bright red, orange, purple, and brown, among many other colors.
Ecological habits of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus likes coolness and dislikes heat, and is suited to fertile, well-drained soil; it is afraid of drought and averse to waterlogging.
Ranunculus asiaticus likes a cool and semi-shaded environment and avoids heat; the suitable growth temperature is about 20°C during the day and 7~10°C at night; it is afraid of both moisture and drought, and is best planted in well-drained, fertile, loose neutral or slightly alkaline soil. After June the tuberous roots enter dormancy. Ranunculus asiaticus is native to western Asia centered on Turkey and southeastern Europe; it likes a mild climate, fresh and humid air, and a sparse-shade growing environment; it is not tolerant of severe cold and freezing, and is even more afraid of intense summer heat and scorching sun. In most parts of China it enters a dormant state in summer. For potting, it requires a sandy culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, with strong permeability.
Cultivation techniques of Ranunculus asiaticus: light management
Ranunculus asiaticus is not tolerant of strong light and likes a semi-shaded environment; in winter light should be sufficient, and in spring, as the temperature rises and light intensifies, it should be moderately shaded and ventilation strengthened. Ranunculus asiaticus is a relatively long-day plant, so long-day conditions can promote flower bud differentiation, advance the flowering period, terminate vegetative growth earlier, and begin forming tubers earlier. Under short-day conditions, the flowering period is delayed, but it can promote more lateral buds, increase the crown width, increase the number of flowers, and further improve the quality of potted flowers. In production, long- and short-day regulation should be carried out according to actual needs to achieve the purpose of advancing or delaying the flowering period.
Water management
Ranunculus asiaticus likes moisture and fears waterlogging, and is relatively drought-tolerant, but should not be excessively dry; especially in the late growth stage, excessive drought will cause Ranunculus asiaticus to enter a forced dormant state and lead to poorer tuber quality. After planting, the first watering should be thorough, and subsequent watering should be timely and balanced, and it must not be too dry or too wet. The degree of watering should be such that the soil surface is dry while the leaves do not show wilting.
Fertilizer management
Before planting Ranunculus asiaticus, decomposed cake fertilizer or livestock manure and other organic fertilizers should be selected as base fertilizer and spread evenly. After transplanting, topdressing begins when the plant has clearly grown or new leaves have emerged; the fertilizer concentration is 0.1% in the early stage and 0.15%~0.2% in the later stage. Use 46% urea and 45% water-soluble compound fertilizer alternately. In the early stage, mainly urea; in the later stage, mainly compound fertilizer, applied once every 7d. In winter, try to use compound fertilizers containing nitrate nitrogen; compound fertilizers containing chlorine should not be used. After flowering, apply 1~2 times of liquid fertilizer mainly containing potassium to promote tuber enlargement.
Temperature management
Ranunculus asiaticus likes a cool environment; the optimum growth temperature is 15~20°C during the day and 7~8°C at night. The temperature must not be too high or too low, and the day-night temperature difference must not be too large; otherwise the growth and development of Ranunculus asiaticus will be affected, leading to a decline in flower number and quality. During production, the maximum temperature inside the plastic greenhouse should not be higher than 22°C, and the minimum should not be lower than 0°C. Generally, using one layer of greenhouse covering in winter gives better growth; after planting, normal temperature management can be carried out when the central leaves have clearly grown.
Flowering period management
After flowering, attention should be paid to adjusting the greenhouse temperature to 15°C to prolong the flowering period. Spent flowers and diseased plants should be promptly cleaned up and removed. Watering should be balanced, not too dry or too wet.
Tuberous root harvest
1. Pre-harvest management
Ranunculus asiaticus tuberous roots have already taken shape before and after flower bud differentiation, but their growth and enlargement occurs after flowering. At this time, if seeds are not to be kept, the spent flowers should be cut off and the buds removed. Water timely and apply 1 to 2 times of liquid fertilizer mainly containing phosphorus and potassium, so that Ranunculus asiaticus grows robustly and produces more nutrients to deliver to the underground tuberous roots, promoting their enlargement and full development. Spray pesticides promptly to prevent the harm of leafminer flies.[9]
2. Timely harvest
When the stems and leaves of Ranunculus asiaticus are completely withered and yellow and the nutrients have all accumulated in the tuberous roots, harvest promptly; by no means too early or too late. If harvested too early, the tuberous roots have insufficient nutrients and are not fully developed; during storage, their disease resistance is weak, and they are easily infected by bacteria and rot; if harvested too late, it is the hot, rainy summer, with high air humidity and high soil water content, and the tuberous roots easily rot in the soil. It is best to choose dry, sunny days lasting 2 to 3 days for digging. To avoid bruising the tuberous roots, dig them out one by one carefully and meticulously.
3. Post-harvest handling
The harvested tuberous roots should have soil and other debris removed, the withered aboveground stems and leaves cut off, and diseased, damaged, and residual tuberous roots removed. After grading by size, wash them clean with water, put them into a 800-fold solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder and soak for 2 to 3 minutes to disinfect and sterilize. Then take them out and spread them to dry in a well-ventilated place without direct sunlight. The spread layer should be thin, to facilitate heat dissipation and water evaporation, and prevent the tuberous roots from heating up and rising in temperature, damaging the buds or becoming moldy.
Tuberous root storage
The tuberous roots that have been treated after harvest and dried off surface moisture should be stored promptly. If piled up randomly without any protective measures, the dormant tuberous roots are prone to attack by pests and diseases or damage from unfavorable conditions such as high temperature and high humidity, becoming moldy, rotten, and deteriorated. Common storage methods include:
1. Ventilated dry storage method
Put the Ranunculus asiaticus tuberous roots into bamboo baskets, perforated cartons, wooden boxes and other containers, with waterproof paper or padding inside, with a thickness not exceeding 20 cm, and store in a ventilated, dry, cool, rain-sheltered place. Or put the tuberous roots into cloth bags, paper bags, or plastic woven bags and, under normal temperature conditions, hang them indoors in a ventilated, dry place for storage.
2. Layered sand storage method
Choose a ventilated, dry indoor place; first lay a 10 cm thick bedding layer of disinfected, impurity-free dry fine sand, then lay a layer of tuberous roots, then a 5 cm thick layer of dry fine sand. In this way, one layer of sand and one layer of tuberous roots, repeatedly stacking 3 to 5 layers, piled into a cone shape, so that the Ranunculus asiaticus tuberous roots are evenly buried in the fine sand for storage.
3. Potted soil storage method
When potted, the tuberous roots can be kept in the original pot soil to overwinter in summer; cut off the withered and dead aboveground stems and leaves, pour over once a 0.3% potassium permanganate aqueous solution, then no longer water or fertilize, and let the pot soil remain dry at all times. Place the flowerpot in a ventilated, cool, rain-sheltered place until autumn, when the tuberous roots are knocked out and replanted.
For storing Ranunculus asiaticus tuberous roots, the tools and the place must be disinfected, and the storage environment should be dry and cool. On rainy days, ventilation and air permeability should be further strengthened to allow moisture to dissipate. During storage, regular inspections should be carried out, and individuals infected with pathogens, moldy, or rotting should be removed at any time. The adjacent contaminated tuberous roots should also be taken out, disinfected with fungicide, dried, and stored again to prevent contagion.
Propagation methods of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus is mainly propagated by division; in autumn from September to October, separate the mother plant's tubers, and each individual plant should carry a root crown, then plant in the garden or in pots; planting should not be too deep, just covering the root crown part. Whether garden-planted or potted, a well-ventilated semi-shaded environment should be chosen; during the vigorous growth period, attention should be paid to frequent watering to keep it moist; before flowering, apply 1-2 times of dilute liquid fertilizer as topdressing; the flowers bloom profusely; after entering summer, the branches and leaves dry up and the plant goes dormant; at this time the tuberous roots should be dug out, dried, and placed indoors in a ventilated, dry place to let them dormant; if it is too humid, or if they are left in the pot, they easily rot.
For autumn planting, the time is after the Start of Autumn, and the earlier the better, which can promote the full growth of the plant clump and good flowering the following spring; but it is best to use pots, and try to avoid high temperature and direct sunlight, otherwise the tuberous roots easily rot. Ranunculus asiaticus has large and beautiful flowers, and is often planted under trees, in clumps in lawns, and on the shady side of buildings; at the same time, it is also suitable as a cut flower or potted plant.
The propagation methods of Ranunculus asiaticus mainly include tuber division propagation, seed propagation, and tissue culture propagation.
Tuber division propagation has the characteristics of a short growth cycle, early flowering, larger plant form, more flowers, and relatively easy cultivation, but its division propagation coefficient is low and the propagation speed is slow, far from meeting the needs of large-scale production. Seed propagation has a high multiplication factor and bright colors, but fewer flowers and a longer growth period; if no cooling measures are taken and sowing is not advanced, it will not flower until March or April, and it has relatively high requirements for cultivation level. Although tissue culture propagation of Ranunculus asiaticus tuberous roots has a high propagation coefficient and fast speed, it has relatively strict requirements for the inoculation period and the selection of explants; the propagation technology is relatively difficult and the cost is relatively high, so there is a certain degree of difficulty in actual production. Therefore, use the sowing method to produce commercial Ranunculus asiaticus tubers, and then use the tubers to produce finished Ranunculus asiaticus, so as to improve the cultivation efficiency of Ranunculus asiaticus potted flowers.
Division propagation
Division is carried out in September-October; break apart the tuberous roots with the root crown and plant them.
Potted Ranunculus asiaticus is mainly propagated by division, usually carried out in autumn from September to October. After digging out the tuberous roots kept in pots for dormancy through the summer, shake off the soil and break them apart by hand according to their natural growth direction. Each separated part must carry a section of root crown, and have 1~2 new buds and 3~4 small tuberous roots. Then put them into a 1% KMnO4 solution and soak for 3~5min to disinfect and sterilize; after briefly drying, plant them. For tuberous roots that have been dormant out of the pot through the summer, in order to prevent the tuberous roots from rotting and to ensure uniform sprouting, germination acceleration treatment should be carried out after disinfection. Choose a shady, ventilated, rain-sheltered place, spread a 5cm thick layer of clean wet river sand, and insert the tuberous roots upside down in the wet sand, burying only the sprouting part, with the rest exposed. Spray cold water frequently to keep the river sand neither dry nor waterlogged; at the same time, spray once a week with a 800-fold solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder for disinfection to prevent the tuberous roots from rotting. After the tuberous roots slowly absorb water and swell at low temperature, about 20d later, when the buds sprout like grains of rice and new roots grow, plant them. Planting should not be too deep; just burying the root crown part is enough. Too deep is not conducive to leaf emergence; too shallow is not conducive to root development. Control watering before emergence, keep the soil moist, and gradually increase the amount of watering after the seedlings are full.
However, because the tuberous roots are short, small, and densely clustered, division is not easy, and the multiplication factor is too low, so seed propagation is commonly used in production.
Tuber propagation after sowing
1. Seedling raising
Ranunculus asiaticus has a variety of flower colors; the planting ratio should be determined according to the market sales proportion of each flower color; the normal sowing period is from mid-October to mid-November. Put the Ranunculus asiaticus seeds in water for 24h, then take them out, wrap them well on gauze, then place them in a constant-temperature incubator to promote germination, at a suitable temperature of about 15°C; take them out every morning and evening and rinse them once each with clean water, then drain off the water, keeping the seeds in a moist state. About 7d after germination promotion, some seeds begin to germinate; sow immediately at this point. After the germinated seeds are appropriately dried, mix them well with an appropriate amount of yellow sand, then sow evenly by broadcasting, with a sowing rate of 2~3g·m-2. For covering soil, mix peat and perlite at 1:1, with a thickness of 0.2~0.3cm being suitable. The seedbed should be well drained; usually choose a protected area with good ventilation and light transmission and relatively high air relative humidity. For the seedbed, mix domestic peat (northeast turf) and perlite at 3:1, spread flat, then water thoroughly, and lay a layer of substrate on top (imported peat: perlite = 1:1). The substrate pH is 6.0~7.5, and the EC value (salt content) is 0.5~0.7. The seedbed is often disturbed by wind, rain and other meteorological disasters and pests and diseases, so the protection of the seedbed should be strengthened. Use some auxiliary protective materials, such as insect-proof nets, shade nets, and plastic films, strengthen management, pay close attention to weather conditions, strengthen inspection and prevention, and effectively avoid unnecessary losses. About 5~7d after sowing, seedlings emerge; pay attention to maintaining substrate moisture, replenish water promptly, and ensure smooth emergence.
2. Planting out
Plant out when the Ranunculus asiaticus seedlings grow to 3~4 true leaves, around mid-December to mid-January. Choose a reasonable planting site according to the production plan and crop rotation arrangement, and at the same time conform to the principles of centralized seedling raising and nearby cultivation. Ranunculus asiaticus seedlings should not carry soil; when lifting the seedlings, remove diseased and weaker seedlings, and discard seedlings with extremely short petioles, thicker leaves, longer petioles, and particularly small leaves; the former have a short plant, and the latter have tall stems and small flowers, few tillers, and a low double-petal rate. Ranunculus asiaticus likes a slightly acidic environment, and loose, fertile sandy loam should be chosen. Usually garden soil, sandy soil, and decomposed cake fertilizer (chicken manure) are mixed at a ratio of 5:3:1, or garden soil, leaf mold, and decomposed organic fertilizer are mixed at a ratio of 4:2:1; the planting row spacing is about 10cm, and the depth should be such that the heart is not buried.
Seed propagation
1. Seed reserving and collection
In order to collect excellent seeds, according to the requirements of the selection goals, determine the mother plants for seed collection, mark them, and strengthen management. When the flowers bloom, carry out artificial supplementary pollination between flowers or between plants. When the stamens' pollen disperses, use a writing brush to dip the pollen and smear it on the stigmas of other flowers; when the pollinated flower petals fall off and form a green aggregate fruit made of seeds tightly arranged, remove the remaining flowers and buds, so that nutrients are concentrated to supply seed growth and development. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management and pest and disease control, so that Ranunculus asiaticus grows robustly, produces more nutrients to deliver to the fruit spike, and grows plump and full seeds. In June, the aboveground branches and leaves of Ranunculus asiaticus wither and yellow, the aggregate fruit changes from green to yellow, and when the seeds are mature, pick the aggregate fruit, dry it in the sun, put it in a paper bag, and store it in a ventilated, dry place until autumn sowing.
2. Low-temperature germination promotion
The normal sowing period of Ranunculus asiaticus is autumn; it is suitable to sow in October when the temperature drops below 20°C. But temperatures differ greatly in different years, and the germination time varies. If the suitable germination temperature of the seeds can be controlled at 10°C to 15°C, they will germinate in about 20 days. If sown early, they will not germinate when the temperature is above 20°C, and not until it drops to the germination temperature; after sowing, the time required for germination is long; if sown late, the vegetative growth before overwintering is insufficient, and the flowers the following spring are small; if sown too late, they will not germinate when the temperature is below 5°C, and not until February of the following year, after the temperature rises. In production, in order to prolong the vegetative growth period and cultivate high-quality Ranunculus asiaticus, sowing can be advanced to mid- and late August. At this time the temperature is high, which is not conducive to seed germination, so low-temperature germination promotion treatment is needed. That is, wrap the seeds well with gauze, soak them in cold water for 24 hours, then place them in a constant-temperature incubator at 8°C to 10°C or a refrigerator crisper; take them out every morning and evening, rinse with cold water, shake off the excess water, and keep the seeds moist. After about 10 days, once the seeds begin to swell and show white, sow immediately. Where conditions permit, alpine seedling raising can be used.
How to grow Ranunculus asiaticus
Suitable germination temperature: 10-15
Suitable growth temperature: 10-15
Sowing period: autumn
Flowering period: winter and spring
Cultivation method: choose loose, well-drained acidic fertile soil as the bed; you can also sow directly indoors in pots; sowing is best carried out in autumn; when the seed temperature is too high, germination is slow; at 10 degrees, germination can occur in 20 days; plant out the following spring; apply sufficient base fertilizer before planting out.
Propagation and cultivation: Ranunculus asiaticus is mainly propagated by dividing the tubers; in September-October, break the tuberous roots apart from the root crown according to their natural separation state.
Disease control of Ranunculus asiaticus: southern blight
Southern blight is caused by infection by a fungus with small sclerotia, and mainly attacks the stem base of the plant. In the early stage of the disease, water-soaked, light brown, irregular lesions appear at the stem base, and then white silky mycelium is produced on the diseased part, gradually winding into rapeseed-like sclerotia. At first white, later yellow-brown to brown. When the disease is severe, the stem base rots and necroses, the aboveground part separates from the underground part, water cannot rise, the branches and leaves wither, and the plant dies. The pathogen overwinters as sclerotia in the soil or on diseased residues; the sclerotia can survive in the soil for several years, and under suitable conditions the sclerotia germinate into mycelium, spreading in the soil from diseased plants to healthy plants. At the same time, after the ascospores mature, they spread through wind and rain, and invade and cause harm after contacting the host. A temperature of about 20°C and an air relative humidity above 85% favor the spread of the pathogen. Under conditions such as overly dense planting, poor ventilation and light transmission, continuous cropping, clay soil, or poor drainage, the disease will worsen.
Control methods:
1. Strengthen cultivation management, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, appropriately control watering, and avoid excessively wet soil. The production site or planting soil should be rotated and disinfected.
2. Inspect promptly; when diseased plants are found, immediately pull them out and burn them. At the same time, dig out the soil around the diseased plants, and spread 40% quintozene around the diseased holes or spray and drench the rhizosphere soil with a 800-fold solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder to control the development of the disease.
3. In the early stage of the disease, spray and drench the stem base of the plant and the surrounding soil with a 500-fold solution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder or a 1000-fold solution of 5% validamycin, which can reduce the disease.
Penicillium rot
This disease mainly occurs during the storage period of tuberous roots, and also occurs from time to time during the growth period. Infected tuberous roots are dark brown or black. When the disease is severe, the surface of the stored tuberous roots is covered with a large amount of Penicillium conidia, which easily infects healthy tuberous roots. After diseased tuberous roots are planted, decay accelerates when humidity is high, and a large amount of mycelium grows on the soil surface where the tuberous roots are planted, and the tuberous root tissue in the soil is in a rotten state. If the tuberous roots are damaged at harvest or stored in a place with poor ventilation and high air humidity, Penicillium rot is likely to occur and cause severe damage.
Control methods:
1. During harvesting, storage, division propagation and other processes, minimize damage, protect the tuberous roots, and thoroughly disinfect the tuberous roots before storage.
2. During storage, pay attention to adjusting the temperature of the storage place, strengthen ventilation, and reduce humidity. Inspect frequently; when tuberous roots infected with Penicillium are found, promptly pick them out and burn them or bury them deeply. In addition, the adjacent tuberous roots must also be taken out, disinfected, dried, and then stored again, to prevent Penicillium from infecting healthy tuberous roots.
3. Before planting, strictly remove tuberous roots carrying pathogenic spores, mechanically damaged, and insect-bitten, then soak them in a 800- or 1000-fold solution of 75% thiophanate-methyl for 10 to 15 minutes, dry them, and then plant, reducing the possibility of disease occurrence.
Viral disease
The pathogen is Ranunculus mottle virus or cucumber mosaic virus. The symptoms of damage are wrinkled and uneven leaves, showing mosaic, chlorotic spots, or leaves shrinking, becoming smaller and thicker. The leaf margins curl toward the leaf surface or the leaf back, the petioles become shorter, and they appear clustered. The affected flowers are distorted and deformed, becoming smaller and unable to bloom. When the damage is severe, the diseased plants are obviously dwarfed, stunted, and die. Viruses often parasitize in tuberous roots or seeds; in production, sowing with virus-carrying seeds or planting virus-carrying tuberous roots results in a relatively high incidence in the grown seedlings. In addition, the virus may also be transmitted to Ranunculus asiaticus during the growth period by aphids, leafminer flies, and leaf-mining flies, causing viral disease. If the seedbed is sown too densely or the pot spacing during the potted growth period is too small, the disease can also be transmitted between plants.
Control methods:
1. Strengthen plant quarantine to prevent virus-carrying seeds, tuberous roots, and plants from being introduced into disease-free areas.
2. Promptly pull out virus-infected plants and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce spread.
3. Strengthen cultivation management, fertilize and water reasonably, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, so that the plants grow robustly and disease resistance is improved.
4. Spray a 1000-fold solution of 10% imidacloprid wettable powder or a 1000-fold solution of 40% omethoate to kill virus-transmitting insects such as aphids, leaf-mining flies, and leafminer flies.
5. In the early stage of the disease, spray for control with a 800- or 1000-fold solution of 68% virus wettable powder, a 100-fold solution of 3.85% virusbike wettable powder, or a 800-fold solution of 7.5% keduling aqueous solution.
Root rot
During the plant growth period, if the soil is clayey, highly alkaline, or if unfavorable conditions such as low temperature, excessive water in the soil, and prolonged duration occur, pathogens are easily triggered, and the plant is infected with root rot, causing the root system to rot and turn dark brown or black, and the aboveground stems and leaves gradually wilt and yellow, and the plant dies. In addition, when the soil humidity is too high at tuber harvest or the soil is compacted, mechanical damage is caused during digging, the surface moisture of the stored tuberous roots is not dry, the pile is too thick, ventilation is poor, and the tuberous roots are not thoroughly disinfected before planting, the tuberous roots are also prone to disease. In the diseased part, the internal tissue changes from white to gray, the outer epidermis is covered with a mycelial layer, and the tuberous roots gradually rot.
Control methods:
1. During storage, to prevent the tuberous roots from rotting, after strictly removing diseased tuberous roots, put them into a 2% potassium permanganate solution and soak for 15 minutes to 30 minutes, then take them out; after the tuberous roots are dried, store them, and pay attention to ventilation and dehumidification at the storage place.
2. Before planting, thoroughly disinfect the culture soil and tuberous roots, and plant appropriately shallowly. During the growth period, strengthen maintenance and management, pay attention to drainage, increase light, and when diseased plants are found, promptly pull them out and burn them.
3. In the early stage of the disease, drench the roots with a 800-fold solution of 75% thiophanate-methyl or a 1000-fold solution of 50% benlate wettable powder. Potted Ranunculus asiaticus can be immediately repotted, replacing the substrate, to control the spread of the disease.
Mosaic disease
Symptoms: chlorotic spots appear on the leaves; in severe cases, the plant grows and develops poorly.
Control methods:
1. Use healthy seedlings; do not propagate by division from diseased plants.
2. Spray insecticides promptly to control aphids.
3. Heat-sterilize flower-cutting blades or wash them clean with detergent.
Leafminer fly
It occurs relatively commonly, and the main period of damage is from February to April. The larvae bore into and feed on the leaf tissue, forming serpentine white mines, and their excrement is produced in the mines as black continuous linear matter; adults lay eggs and feed, causing round wounds. This destroys the chloroplasts of the plant tissue, reducing photosynthesis, and also provides a route and place for pathogen invasion and breeding; the activity of the insects also transmits many viral diseases, bringing catastrophic effects to the cultivation of Ranunculus asiaticus.
Control methods: comprehensive control must be adopted, with prevention as the main approach, and comprehensive monitoring of the occurrence of the pest. For control, yellow sticky boards and chemical agents can be used; in the initial stage or about 20d after the peak of emerged female flies, promptly alternate and rotate a 5000-fold solution of 75% cyromazine wettable powder, a 1000-fold solution of 4.5% beta-cypermethrin emulsifiable concentrate, a 2000-fold solution of 50% chlorpyrifos, and a 1500-fold solution of 25% leafminer net emulsifiable concentrate, spraying once every 10d, for 3 consecutive sprays.
Aphids and whiteflies
In the early stage of occurrence, spray for control with a 3500-fold solution of 1.8% abamectin emulsifiable concentrate, or 50% pirimicarb, 20% fenpropathrin emulsifiable concentrate, or a 2000-fold solution of 10% imidacloprid wettable powder.
Variety classification of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus is divided into potted types and cut flower types.
Ranunculus asiaticus has double-petaled and semi-double-petaled types, with rich flower colors including white, yellow, red, water red, bright red, orange, purple, and brown, among many other colors.
Distribution area of Ranunculus asiaticus
Ranunculus asiaticus is native to southwestern Asia centered on Turkey and southeastern Europe (the Mediterranean coast); it has been widely planted in European countries such as France and Israel, and is cultivated in countries around the world.
Uses of Ranunculus asiaticus: ornamental value
Ranunculus asiaticus has a low plant form, brilliant colors, upright flower stems, and a beautiful and unique flower shape; the flowers are large and lovely and varied; the petals are compact and many-petaled and overlapping; the flower colors are rich, smooth, and brilliant.
The ornamental flowering period of Ranunculus asiaticus is 30 days~40 days, with a unique style and special charm; it is an ideal flower for spring potted display, arranging open-ground flower beds and flower borders, dotting lawns, and for cut flower production, and is an excellent landscaping material for shaded environments, so it is suitable for planting under tree clusters or on the north side of buildings, and is deeply welcomed by consumers.
Persian buttercup is an emerging flower with significant economic benefits. It has developed rapidly in China, but it still falls far short of market demand and has broad development prospects.
The flower language of Persian buttercup
The flower language of Persian buttercup: popularity.
In the 13th century AD, Saint Anthony, a Franciscan friar, always attracted large numbers of believers to listen whenever he preached Christian doctrine and the Gospel, and he became famous for this.
The blessed birthday person has an easygoing, talkative personality and is widely admired, loved and supported by those around them. However, precisely because they make friends so widely, they often find it hard to form deep friendships, and this is true even with friends of the opposite sex. So one should remember that while having many friends is certainly good, having close confidants with whom one can go deep is even more important.
Persian buttercup pictures
Introduction to the habits, breeding methods, and cultivation techniques of Amur adonis
Amur adonis (scientific name: Adonis amurensis Regel et Radde) is a perennial herbaceous plant in the Ranunculaceae family, genus Adonis. The rhizome is short and thick, hairless or with sparse short pubescence at the top, unbranched or sometimes branched, with several membranous scales at the base. The leaves grow larger after flowering; the lower stem leaves have long petioles and are hairless; the leaf blade is an equilateral triangle. The sepals are often tinged with pale grayish purple, oblong or obovate-oblong, equal to or slightly longer than the petals. The petals are yellow, obovate-oblong or narrowly obovate. The ovary has short pubescence. The achene is obovoid-globose. It flowers from March to April.
It is distributed in Liaoning, Jilin, and eastern Heilongjiang in China. It also occurs in Korea, Japan, and the Far East region of the Soviet Union. It grows on mountain slopes, in grasslands, or under forests.
The roots and the whole plant of this species contain cardiac glycosides such as adonin, cymarin, adonitoxin, and other compounds. It is toxic, and can also be used medicinally.
Morphological characteristics of Amur adonis
Perennial herb. The rhizome is short and thick, with many fibrous roots. The stem is 5-15 cm tall at flowering time and later up to 30 cm tall, hairless or with sparse short pubescence at the top, unbranched or sometimes branched, with several membranous scales at the base. The leaves grow larger after flowering; the lower stem leaves have long petioles and are hairless; the leaf blade is an equilateral triangle, up to 7.5 cm long and up to 9 cm wide, ternately parted, with the parted segments having long petioles, bipinnately to tripinnately finely divided, and the final segments narrowly ovate to lanceolate with short pointed tips; the petiole is up to 6.5 cm long.
The flowers are 2.8-3.5 cm in diameter; there are about 9 sepals, often tinged with pale grayish purple, oblong or obovate-oblong, equal to or slightly longer than the petals, 14-18 mm long, hairless or with sparse short pubescence near the margin; there are about 10 petals, yellow, obovate-oblong or narrowly obovate, 1.4-2 cm long and 5-7 mm wide, hairless; the stamens are about 3 mm long and hairless; the carpels are numerous, the ovary has short pubescence, the style is about 0.8 mm long, curved outward, and the stigma is small and spherical. The achene is obovoid-globose, about 3.8 mm long, covered with short pubescence, with a short persistent style.
Growth habits of Amur adonis
It is commonly found among shrubs on mountain slopes or at the foot of mountains, under broad-leaved forests, on forest edges, on mountain slopes, and in moist soil rich in humus. It adapts to moist soil rich in humus. Amur adonis is tolerant of cool conditions and is suitable for planting in areas with neutral or slightly alkaline soil and a large day-night temperature difference.
Propagation methods of Amur adonis
Seeds
This is the main method for large-scale propagation, but the cycle is relatively long. The so-called "seed" is actually an achene. The exocarp is slightly fleshy and pale green; the endocarp is bony and black; it contains one seed, and the seed coat is membranous and white. They mature successively from mid-May to early June and fall off easily, so they should be collected as they mature. After collection, the seeds can be sown directly in the seedling bed, but not too densely, so as to facilitate transplanting. Cover with 1 cm of soil and be careful to maintain soil moisture. After sowing, the seeds undergo after-ripening and winter dormancy, and germinate the following spring. In the first year, the seedlings produce only two cotyledons, and thereafter produce 1-3 normal stem leaves each year. Generally, it takes 5 years to flower.
Root division
This method has a small propagation volume, but it can flower the following year. Root division can be carried out in spring, summer, or autumn, with late autumn being best. Select plants with many aboveground stems (that is, with many rhizome branches), dig out the root system, identify the positions of the rhizome branches and dormant buds, and break or cut apart the rhizome branches so that each section of rhizome has dormant buds. After division, plant them in the seedling bed; those with terminal buds can also be planted directly in gardens.
Tissue culture
It can propagate rapidly in large quantities, but the method is somewhat more complicated. Experiments have shown that in a suitable culture medium, it can both promote the germination and growth of dormant buds and produce abundant callus on segments of vegetative tissue, differentiating multiple buds. Work in this area remains to be further deepened.
Cultivation techniques for Amur adonis
Plot selection
It is necessary to select irrigated bed fields that are flat, fertile, and have not been continuously cropped for more than 2 years. Saline-alkali land, low-lying waterlogged land, and plots sprayed with pre-emergence herbicide in the previous year are not suitable for planting.
Land preparation and bed making: Begin plowing and land preparation from late March to early April. Deep plowing and fine harrowing are required, and every effort should be made to ensure the soil is fine and crumbly, the soil texture is loose, and the ground is level. Beds and ridges should be made according to local conditions, ensuring straight ridges and level beds.
Sowing: In the Tongliao area, sow from April 1-15, using 1.5-2 kg of seed per 667 sq m. Open shallow furrows on small ridges in the bed field and sow in rows by hand, using garden-style planting. For a 4 m bed, plant 8-12 ridges, open shallow furrows and cover lightly with soil, with a soil cover thickness of about 1 cm. After sowing, press the soil and water.
Fertilization: Field experiments show that among planting fertilizers (base fertilizer), phosphate fertilizer is indispensable, and organic fertilizer is the guarantee of high yield. At the same time, applying N, P, and K can increase yield by 14.4% compared with the control; if organic fertilizer is also applied, the yield can increase by 70.6% compared with the control. In topdressing, N is the main nutrient, which is beneficial to flower bud formation and promotes flowering. At the same time, water frequently and pay attention to disease prevention.
Base fertilizer: For base fertilizer, using 1500 kg/667 sq m of well-rotted farmyard manure mixed with 15 kg/667 sq m of three-element compound fertilizer gives better results.
Topdressing: Carry out topdressing in mid-July. For topdressing, three-element compound fertilizer and other phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are preferable. Apply 10-15 kg of three-element compound fertilizer plus 5-8 kg of urea per 667 sq m, applying it all at once during hoeing, and water after fertilizing. If conditions permit, topdress a second time in the middle of flowering. During the flower-picking period, spray foliar fertilizer once about every 10 d until flower picking ends. For foliar fertilizer, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, Jinyefeng, Zhuangdefeng, and others can all be used.
Watering: Watering before sowing and before emergence: you can water before sowing or after sowing. If watering after sowing, loosen the soil promptly to prevent soil crusting. Watering during the growth period: water multiple times during the growth period, use a small flow rate when watering, do not wash away soil and bury seedlings, and combine watering with fertilization.
Field management
Seedling recovery period: The young seedlings grow slowly in the early stage, so field management should be strengthened during the seedling stage, with frequent hoeing and cultivating.
Thinning and final thinning: Carry out thinning and final thinning after seedling recovery and before bolting. The spacing between seedlings is 3-5 cm, leaving about 35,000-40,000 plants per 667 sq m.
Bolting period: In order to promote bolting and budding, when Amur adonis enters the initial rosette stage, spray 0.001% GA3 solution on the leaves in early July.
Weeding: Generally use manual weeding and try not to use herbicides. If herbicides are used, spray pendimethalin after sowing and before emergence at 150 ml per 667 sq m; to control grass weeds after emergence, use sethoxydim at 80 ml per 667 sq m, adding 25-40 kg of water per 667 sq m, and spray after emergence.
Pest and disease control of Amur adonis
Observation has shown that both wild and cultivated Amur adonis have no obvious insect pests; only after the achenes fall to the ground can they be gnawed by ants and other insects. During the flowering period and vegetative growth period, scorching of flowers and leaves can be caused by hot, dry weather, excessively strong sunlight, or dry winds. The solution is to provide appropriate shading or spray water in a timely manner.
Main values of Amur adonis
Landscape value
Amur adonis is short in stature, with large and brightly colored flowers, and has the characteristics of braving frost and cold and pushing through ice and snow. It is suitable for planting in courtyards among rockeries, in rock crevices, and at the foot of mountains, or for edging flower beds, flower borders, and lawns, or for grouped planting as accents. Potted plants arranged in halls and rooms are beautiful and elegant.
Medicinal value
The whole plant of Amur adonis contains various cardiac glycosides and non-cardiac glycoside components, and it appears in the pharmacopoeias of many countries. In traditional Chinese medicine it is called Fus hou cao. It has the functions of strengthening the heart, promoting diuresis, sedation, and slowing heart rate, and can reduce the excitability of the nervous system and hyperfunction of spinal reflexes. It is used for acute diseases and chronic cardiac insufficiency. It mainly treats congestive heart failure, cardiac edema, and atrial fibrillation. When used together with silver bromide, it can strengthen the therapeutic effect on epilepsy. Merchants from Japan and Canada buy this flower from China every autumn for drug extraction.
The flower language of Amur adonis: memories, perseverance, persistence!