How do you manage green plant care? The basic key points explained clearly at once
Friends who love green plants tend to care quite a bit about how their plants grow, but many beginner flower growers often do not understand exactly which issues should be paid attention to in greenery management. The editor will introduce to you what the basic requirements of greenery management actually are, so beginner flower growers can learn about them together
Friends who love green plants tend to care quite a bit about how their plants grow, but many beginner flower growers often do not understand exactly which issues should be paid attention to in greenery management. The editor will introduce to you what the basic requirements of greenery management actually are, so beginner flower growers can learn about them together.
Golden-edged boxwood (Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus')
(1) Ensure normal plant growth. Management of plant pests and diseases, water and fertilizer should be strengthened to ensure that pests and diseases do not spiral out of control, to ensure normal plant growth, and to ensure there are no obvious signs of poor growth.
(2) Strengthen the clearing of dead branches and yellow leaves and greenery cleaning work. In order to ensure the environmental improvement and safety of the community, dead branches and yellow leaves of garden plants should be removed in a timely manner, and the garden green space should be swept and cleaned. Large trees should be cleaned and pruned every year to remove dead branches. Before disastrous weather arrives, the garden trees within the managed property should also be inspected to prevent them from causing potential harm to owners and property users.
(3) Promptly renovate greenery plants that hinder the activities of owners and property users, and reduce the harm caused to greenery by human trampling. For example, properly prune street trees along traffic roads, and rationally renovate the distribution of garden paths that clearly affect residents' normal lives due to unreasonable design. This not only makes things convenient for owners and property users, but also reduces the pressure on the property company for greenery replanting.
(4) Create community environmental culture and strengthen publicity for greenery protection. Main flowering plants and trees should be labeled with information signs noting knowledge such as their plant name, alias, scientific name, family and genus, place of origin, and growth habits. Guide owners to actively participate in greenery management, so that greenery management achieves twice the result with half the effort.
Four key points for green plant leaf care
Keeping a few green plants at home seems to have become something many families must do. In the process of green plant care, leaf care should also be given attention. The leaves of plants most intuitively reflect their growth status, and during care we should pay attention to 4 key points.
Control light and moisture
When cultivated green plants are sprouting new leaves, pay attention to controlling light and moisture, and try to slow down the growth rate of new leaves so that the stems can sprout more leaves. The more tightly the new leaves are arranged, the more their growth will curve downward, which helps produce naturally beautiful mature leaves.
Remove old leaves
When green plants have grown for a certain period, the old leaves should be removed so that the terminal buds sprout new leaves earlier. After the new leaves have taken shape, remove the leaves with poor form so they are not wasted in the same way.
Water appropriately
To give leaves a good growing environment, pay attention to watering appropriately and prevent water accumulation in the pot, otherwise new branches will grow excessively while old leaves wither, causing a clear imbalance in the number and appearance of new and old leaves. Therefore, the amount of water should be controlled. For foliage plants with strong drought resistance, wait until the soil 2-3 cm below the surface of the pot has dried before replenishing water appropriately. Water at 10 a.m., and after the new leaves have taken shape, resume normal management.
Turn the pot regularly
Because leaves have positive phototropism and light-seeking behavior, especially new leaves, they are even more likely to lean toward sunlight as they grow, resulting in old leaves forming a state of being high at the back and low at the front, with uneven sizes. In order to make branches and leaves grow evenly and have a graceful posture, the pot needs to be turned frequently to change direction. When the leaf slant is relatively large, turn the north side of the pot toward the south side. The frequency of turning the pot is 10-15 days.
Green plant care knowledge
I. Distinguish light requirements1. Sun-loving flowers: like sunlight, such as magnolia, Chinese rose, pomegranate, plum blossom, pansy, and skullcap, etc.;
2. Neutral flowers: not strict about light requirements. Such as jasmine, osmanthus, Boston ivy, etc.;
3. Shade-loving flowers: such as asparagus fern, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, rubber tree, arrowroot, and dragon tree, etc.
II. Divided according to required light duration
1. Long-day flowers: more than 12 hours of sunlight per day, such as iris, China aster, and garden balsam, etc.;
2. Intermediate-day flowers: such as carnation, Chinese rose, etc.;
3. Short-day flowers: daily sunlight must be less than 12 hours. Such as poinsettia, chrysanthemum, etc.
III. Temperature
1. Cold-tolerant flowers: can endure low temperatures of around minus 20 degrees. Such as winter jasmine, crabapple, elm-leaved spirea, hosta, lilac, daylily, and wisteria, etc.;
2. Semi-cold-tolerant flowers: can endure low temperatures of around minus 5 degrees, such as tulip, Chinese rose, chrysanthemum, pomegranate, and Chinese peony, etc.;
3. Cold-intolerant flowers: such as asparagus fern, cast-iron plant, bird of paradise, croton, poinsettia, Chinese hibiscus, calla lily, white orchid, and succulents, etc.
IV. The important role of water in flower growing
1. Pay attention to water quality: according to the amount of magnesium salts and calcium, water is divided into hard water and soft water. Soft water is better for watering flowers. Rainwater is the most ideal, followed by river water and pond water. Remember: do not use dishwashing water or water with laundry detergent. Tap water should be left to stand for a day before use so that the chlorine in the water fully volatilizes.
2. Pay attention to water temperature: do not go from sudden cold to sudden heat.
3. Water amount: more in spring, and it is suitable to water at noon; sufficient in summer, and it is suitable to water in the morning and evening; less in autumn; in winter, water once every few days according to whether the pot is dry or wet.
4. When watering, pay attention: master it according to different seasons, different weather, and plant preferences. In short, before watering, first intuitively analyze the water shortage situation, then water.
V. When growing flowers, also pay attention that the soil should not become compacted and hard
1. Increase the application of organic fertilizer;
2. Mix in sand appropriately;
3. Drainage and loosening the soil.
VI. Household flower growing often uses composting methods
Use grass, fallen leaves, straw, etc., add an appropriate amount of water, livestock manure, human feces and urine, and a small amount of lime, put them into a pit and pile them into a rectangular shape, cover with soil, and compost for a certain period of time. This can kill insects and weeds, and also allow organic components to decompose quickly.
VII. Topdressing
1. Foliar topdressing;
2. Urea topdressing, and urea water can also be sprayed on leaf surfaces;
3. Potassium dihydrogen phosphate is beneficial for flower bud differentiation and can also make flowers larger and more brightly colored;
4. For iron-deficiency yellow leaves, spraying ferrous sulfate is best. Such as camellia, gardenia, and banana shrub, etc.;
5. Boron water can prevent and reduce flower and bud drop, and is very beneficial for increasing flower count and flower quality;
6. Topdressing must pay attention to the amount. Urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate are 0.2%--0.3%, ferrous sulfate 0.3%--0.5%, and boron 0.05%--0.1%.
7. Topdressing time is generally around 8-10 a.m. or in the evening. Do not neglect spraying the undersides of leaves.
VIII. Household flower growing pest control
To prevent and control pests and diseases, one should grasp the principle of "prevention first," strengthen management, and pay attention to maintenance work such as ventilation, light penetration, watering, and fertilizing, so that flowers and trees grow robustly and enhance their own ability to resist pests and diseases. Once pest damage is found, measures should be taken as early as possible, achieving "treat early, treat small, treat thoroughly" to prevent spread. The common flower pests and diseases are illustrated below:
1. Pests
(1) Aphids. Aphids are a kind of small green-yellow insect that harms almost all flowers and trees. Between spring and summer, they often gather densely on new shoots or flower buds of Chinese rose, pomegranate, oleander, chrysanthemum, etc. They suck sap with their mouthparts, causing tender leaves to curl and shrivel. In severe cases, they not only affect growth and flowering, but also cause the plant to wither. Aphids can produce 20-30 generations a year, and eggs can overwinter.
Control method: Spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 3000 times dilution (that is, add 1 gram of dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate to 3 kg of water); or spray with 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. In addition, there are two simple control methods: first, soak 5 grams of cigarette butts in 70-80 grams of water for 24 hours, rub them a little, filter out the residue with gauze, and then spray; second, use 1:200 laundry detergent water (soapy water), and to improve the effect, add a few drops of rapeseed oil, stir thoroughly, and spray with a sprayer when no oil film is visible on the surface.
(2) Slug moths, commonly known as stinging caterpillars or itch-inducing worms. This pest bites and eats the leaves of Chinese rose, white orchid, peony, pomegranate, plum blossom, lotus, and rose, etc. When the damage is severe, the leaves of an entire pot of flowers can be eaten up in only a few days. Slug moths specialize in hiding on the undersides of leaves, and if one does not pay attention, they are often overlooked. They occur in 2 generations a year, once in early June, once in late June, and after mid-October they form cocoons to overwinter.
Control method: If there are few pests and the damage is light, the damaged leaves can be removed and burned. Spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000-1200 times dilution (that is, add 1 gram or a little more of trichlorfon to 1 kg of water), or 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 500-800 times dilution.
(3) Spider mites, also known as red spiders. They often harm rhododendrons, Chinese rose, scarlet sage, crabapple, as well as Chinese juniper, kumquat, bitter orange, cactus, and dragon juniper, etc. Among these, rhododendrons and Chinese juniper suffer the most serious damage. Spider mites are small in body and red in color, and are very difficult to see with the naked eye. They like to suck sap on the undersides of leaves. Damaged leaves turn yellow, develop many small white spots, and soon wither and fall off. Spider mites have very strong reproductive ability and can produce more than 10 generations a year, often breeding in high-temperature and low-humidity environments.
Control method: Remove weeds in the pot and eliminate overwintering eggs. When damage occurs, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1500 times dilution (that is, add 1-1.5 grams of dimethoate to 1 kg of water), or spray with 40% dicofol emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution,
(4) Longhorn beetles, also known as trunk-boring insects or heart-boring insects. They often harm grapes, Chinese rose, rhododendrons, as well as peach, apricot, and plum, etc.
Control method: Cut off the damaged trunk and capture and destroy them. Or use a small knife to remove insect feces and wood shavings, then inject omethoate at 1:50 dilution into the borehole, and seal the opening with mud slurry.
(5) Scarab beetles, also known as white soil grubs or white earth grubs. Their larvae are called white grubs. They have very diverse feeding habits and are major underground pests of many flowers.
Control method: Deep plowing in winter can promote the death of the overwintering generation. During the active period, irrigate with 50% malathion emulsifiable concentrate at 800-**** times dilution; protect natural enemies.
2. Diseases
(1) Powdery mildew, also called powdery mold disease, harms Chinese rose, rose, large-leaf boxwood, kumquat, etc., and often harms the leaves, stems, and flower stalks of flowers and trees. A layer of white powder appears on the surface of the affected area, and in severe cases the leaves wither. This disease is prone to occur in stuffy, humid, and poorly ventilated environments.
Control method: Spray chemicals such as thiophanate and carbendazim.
(2) Southern blight, harms Chinese rose, jasmine, clivia, small pomegranate, Japanese aucuba, orchid, chrysanthemum, etc. When the disease occurs, the base of the stem becomes brown and rots, and the mycelium is silky, initially white, then turning yellow to brown. This disease mostly occurs in the midsummer season when the soil is moist, rainy, and hot.
Control method: The potting soil should be disinfected, and at the same time pay attention to environmental ventilation, avoid overly dense cultivation, and prune diseased branches. Before the disease occurs, regularly spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution.
(3) Leaf spot disease, also called black spot disease, brown spot disease, etc. It harms Chinese rose, camellia, rhododendron, rose, chrysanthemum, etc. more often. First, black spots appear in the middle of the leaves, then the leaf color turns yellow and they fall off. The cause is mostly stuffy, poorly ventilated, and humid environments.
Control method: Pay attention to improving environmental conditions. At the early stage of the disease, remove the damaged leaves and burn them. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture for control, once every 7 days, for a total of 4-5 sprays during the whole growth period.
IX. Monthly calendar for indoor foliage plant management
January
The temperature is cold and dry.
During the day, place semi-shade-loving and light-loving plants on a south-facing windowsill to receive sufficient light. At night, place them 1 meter away from the windowsill, or cover them for warmth. High-temperature-loving plants need to be covered with plastic film during the day or placed in a glass insulation box. If conditions permit, artificial light sources can be used to supplement light and increase the amount of light. In rooms with relatively low room temperature, heating measures should be taken to prevent cold damage. Place shade-tolerant plants in bright places, and dormant plants in dark places.
Water once every 4 days or more, when the soil is dry, white, and hard: do not fertilize or apply a small amount of potassium fertilizer. Wipe the leaf surfaces with a damp cloth to remove dust and preserve moisture.
Dead branches and yellow leaves should be cut off in time.
February
The climate is cold and dry, with occasional warm weather.
Maintain light and temperature as in January. Even if warm weather occasionally appears, do not suddenly move plants outdoors to bask in the sun, or remove insulation facilities, otherwise cold damage is very likely.
Water and fertilizer control are also the same as in January.
Cold-tolerant plants begin to be potted, repotted, and changed into new pots. For example, some bamboo species and heavenly bamboo, etc., must be done in the last ten days of the month on warm days.
Take cuttings of cold-tolerant plants such as heavenly bamboo and Japanese fatsia.
Shaping and pruning are the same as in January.
March
The temperature begins to rise, and light intensity gradually increases, but cold waves still invade. Except for high-temperature-loving and some intermediate-temperature plants that continue to take anti-freezing measures, the rest of the plants can gradually remove insulation facilities to adapt to room temperature, and be properly ventilated, but they must not be moved outdoors immediately; they can be rotated to bask in the sun.
Maintain humidity, fertilize lightly, and appropriately increase watering frequency to create conditions for plant sprouting, but the soil still must not be too wet, and a certain level of air humidity should be maintained. On warm days, appropriately sprinkle water on leaf surfaces at noon. Apply a small amount of complete fertilizer or fertilizer weighted toward nitrogen and phosphorus.
Continue taking cuttings of cold-tolerant plants such as Japanese fatsia, Chinese euonymus, red-back eurya, and star jasmine. Propagate red-back eurya by division.
Most can begin repotting, and in conjunction with repotting, carry out root trimming, shaping, base fertilizer application, and division propagation, etc.
April
The temperature continues to rise, sunlight is sufficient, rainfall begins to increase, and most plants begin to stir into growth.
Some high-temperature-loving plants still need warmth-preservation management. The vast majority of plants can fully receive sunlight and be properly ventilated. Light-loving and cold-tolerant plants can gradually be hardened off and placed outdoors in rotation to receive light, in order to maintain good appearance.
Except for those just potted, repotted, or changed into new pots, all others can be given topdressing. Sown seedlings and cuttings have begun normal growth and can also be given dilute fertilizer water. Increase watering frequency, water when dry and withhold when wet, and frequently mist leaf surfaces to increase air humidity.
Continue taking cuttings of cold-tolerant plants such as red-back eurya and Chinese euonymus. Calla lily and Japanese fatsia begin sowing in the last ten days of this month.
Continue to firmly carry out potting, repotting, and changing into new pots.
As plants sprout and unfold leaves, promptly pinch and top them. Rubber tree and purple-back acanthus, etc., are heavily pruned for renewal. Climbing plants are tied to supports.
May
The temperature gradually rises, sunlight is sufficient, rainfall increases, and plant growth begins to speed up.
First do a good job of shading sun-sensitive and some semi-shade plants to prevent sunburn and scorching, and properly ventilate. The remaining plants can fully receive sunlight to promote lush branches and leaves.
Topdressing can be done before watering, and the frequency and amount can be appropriately increased, but avoid contaminating stems and leaves. After topdressing, water in time and spray water on leaf surfaces. Watering is basically once a day, in the morning or evening, and the number of leaf-surface sprays increases.
Hardwood cuttings in the rainy season of spotted aucuba, croton, schefflera, philodendron, and Japanese fatsia can begin in the last ten days of this month. Mahonia, Japanese fatsia, and calla lily, etc., continue to be collected for seed and sown.
Repot and change pots for red mulberry and schefflera, etc. On rainy days, thin and finalize seedlings for sown seedlings.
June
The temperature rises, humidity is high, the sun is strong, and plants grow rapidly. Cold-sensitive plants also enter the growth period.
Do a good job of shading and sun protection for shade-tolerant and semi-shade plants, and pay attention to indoor ventilation.
Provide sufficient water, and on hot sunny days pay attention to maintaining air humidity. Both the frequency and amount of topdressing should be increased.
Step up hardwood cuttings of croton, rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, schefflera, and philodendron, etc. Do a good job of propagating Swiss cheese plant by stem cutting and division.
Firmly carry out repotting for a small number of plants such as schefflera.
This month, pay attention to preventing pests and diseases. Because hot and humid weather is especially likely to induce fungal diseases, spray Bordeaux mixture once every 7-10 days. When pests and diseases are found, isolate and treat them in time.
July
The climate is hot, and extremely high temperatures often occur. Although precipitation is heavy, much of it becomes surface runoff, and air humidity is relatively low, which has adverse effects on plant growth.
Mainly firmly carry out measures such as shading, spraying water, ventilation and cooling, and increasing humidity.
Take varying degrees of shading and sun protection measures for shade-tolerant, semi-shade, and light-tolerant plants. In hot and dry weather, some light-loving plants also need a certain amount of shade at noon. Cuttings and small sown seedlings especially need attention. Strengthen ventilation measures.
Watering must be sufficient and timely. On dry days, water twice a day, morning and evening. Avoid watering at noon, and place water basins and increase the number of sprays on leaf surfaces and the ground to cool and preserve moisture. Topdressing should be light, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, applied before watering. Control water and fertilizer for summer-dormant plants.
Spores of club moss and ferns mature; collect them at any time for broadcasting and propagation. Red mulberry and schefflera, etc., can continue cutting propagation.
Actively prevent and control pests and diseases. Same as June.
August
The climate is hot and dry, and extremely high temperatures still occur. In the last ten days of the month, the temperature difference between day and night widens greatly, which is beneficial to plant growth.
Light and temperature management are the same as July.
Water and topdressing management are the same as July.
September
Temperatures gradually drop, the difference between day and night temperatures is large, mornings and evenings are cool, and most plants show a second growth peak.
Some semi-shade plants begin to gradually accept direct sunlight. Light-loving plants can receive full sunlight all day, but still need ventilation and air circulation.
Watering should still be kept generous, and air humidity should be maintained. The amount and frequency of topdressing remain the same, gradually increase the proportion of potassium fertilizer and reduce nitrogen fertilizer.
Propagate sacred lily (Reineckea carnea), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), and similar plants by division. Carry out appropriate shaping and pruning.
October
The climate gradually becomes cooler, and plant growth begins to slow down.
Except for shade-tolerant plants, the remaining plants gradually receive full light. Cold-sensitive plants are moved indoors one after another.
For plants whose growth gradually weakens, after applying fertilizer once in early October, begin controlling water and fertilizer. For plants growing normally, the amount of watering should also not be too much, to prevent excessive vegetative growth, which weakens cold resistance; fertilization should be mainly potassium.
Propagate hosta (Hosta) and similar plants by root division. Dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus) and similar plants can be propagated by collecting seeds and broadcasting them.
November
Temperatures drop noticeably, and the first cold wave begins to appear. Most plants slow their growth, and a few plants gradually enter dormancy.
Except for cold-hardy plants, all other plants should be moved indoors. Take measures to block gaps in doors and windows to prevent invasion by cold air that may arrive at any time. Except for shade-tolerant plants, all others can fully receive sunlight. For heat-loving plants, take appropriate insulation measures according to the situation, and take heating measures when necessary.
temperature measures; when necessary, take heating measures.
The vast majority of plants need water control and fertilizer cessation, keeping the soil appropriately dry.
Collect palm seeds and propagate by sowing.
Prune at any time to maintain a good shape. If pruned branches are stored properly,
they can be used for cuttings next year.
December
The climate is cold and dry.
Check cold-protection measures at any time. If the indoor temperature is insufficient, strengthen them promptly: heat-loving plants can be placed in a warm box made of plastic film or glass to improve insulation. The vast majority of plants can fully receive sunlight; when light is insufficient, artificial light sources can be used to supplement light. At night, flower pots should be placed 1 m away from doors and windows, and a cover can also be added to block the cold. Winter-dormant plants should be placed in a dark place.
Continue water control and fertilizer cessation. Water once every 3-4 days or longer; do not water if [the soil is not dry?]; the water temperature should be equal to or slightly higher than the air temperature, and watering should be done at noon. For winter-dormant plants, simply keep the potting soil somewhat moist. Indoor heating often tends to make the air humidity lower; you can often wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to preserve moisture and keep them clean.
For plants such as heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), store the seeds or sow them immediately after collection.
Note: This calendar is based on the Shanghai and Nanjing regions. For how home gardeners should prevent and control pests and diseases, northern regions should postpone by more than one month.
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