What are the key maintenance points after transplanting an osmanthus tree?
The osmanthus tree is a fairly common landscaping tree species. Because the osmanthus flower is quite distinctive, the osmanthus tree also has high ornamental value and is loved by many people. In landscaping, the price of osmanthus trees is also relatively high. However, some flower enthusiasts discover that after transplanting, an osmanthus tree requires careful care to ensure its survival.
Osmanthus tree
1. Wrap the trunk
To reduce water evaporation from the trunk and maintain trunk humidity, wrap the trunk tightly from the base upward with moist straw rope, then coat the straw rope fully with clay slurry, and afterward mist it frequently with a sprayer to retain moisture; alternatively, wrap a layer of plastic film around the outside of the straw rope. In hot summer, the canopy of newly transplanted large trees should also be sprayed with a plant transpiration inhibitor and watered regularly to reduce water evaporation.
2. Support and secure
Support the trunk, set up shade netting and hang curtains. In the southeast coastal areas, typhoon activity is frequent, so after planting, support is essential and must be firm. In summer and autumn, leaf transpiration is high; to maintain ecological balance, shade frames with shade netting and hanging curtains must be installed.
3. Water with rooting solution
During the planting process of osmanthus, or after transplanting, a large-tree rooting solution should be applied promptly. It can quickly stimulate new root growth, increase the number of fine roots and absorbing roots, and improve the tree's ability to absorb water and nutrients, thereby achieving the goal of transplant survival. However, the rooting solution should be a legitimate brand from a legitimate manufacturer. Here, the large-tree rooting solution produced by Zhengzhou Linsheng Biotechnology Co., Ltd. is recommended. It can be used 2-3 times consecutively, with an interval of 7-15 days.
4. Prevent root rot from waterlogging
Root rot and waterlogged roots in newly transplanted large trees are a major deadly killer of tree survival. Once roots are waterlogged, the tree is very difficult to keep alive, so prevention of root rot disease should be done in advance. The specific measures are: control the amount of watering to prevent excessive water accumulation at the roots (water thoroughly the first time, then afterward water moderately according to soil moisture without overwatering); disinfect the tree pit and backfill soil during transplanting (root rot control products may be used); avoid planting too deep; for temporarily heeled-in large trees, the high-planting method or container heel-in method may be used.
5. Use large-tree IV drips to supplement life elements
For transplanting large-specification osmanthus trees, Linsheng brand large-tree IV drips can be used. They not only supplement the various macro- and microelements and water needed for tree growth, but also stimulate the growth activity of tree cells and stimulate the tree to root and sprout, thereby improving the transplant survival rate of the tree.
6. Watering and fertilizing
Watering should follow the principle of not watering when not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering. Especially in summer, water should be sprayed on the ground and canopy, and if necessary, potassium dihydrogen phosphate or a 0.3% urea solution can be added with the spraying as a foliar fertilizer. To restore tree vigor as soon as possible, a topdressing should be applied once in the autumn of the first year after transplanting, but only in a small amount. In the second year, apply fertilizer 2-3 times in early spring and autumn, and apply foliar topdressing if necessary.
What are the technical key points for transplanting large osmanthus trees?
Large osmanthus is one of the more common plants. Today the editor will share with you what the technical key points are for transplanting large osmanthus trees.
Transplanting season and selection of large osmanthus trees
Transplanting season for large osmanthus trees: If osmanthus is transplanted too early, when temperatures are high and transpiration is great, the root system is easily damaged and its ability to absorb water is weakened, often causing leaf drop or even death. Because most large osmanthus trees are transplanted from the south, if the time is too late there is no transitional stage, so they cannot adapt to the northern climate and are prone to freezing to death. Even if they survive, they are just a few skeletal branches with sparse foliage, failing to achieve the effect required by the project. Through experimentation, the best time for large osmanthus trees in the Zhengzhou area is mid-November. At this time, temperatures begin to drop, transpiration is low, and soil temperature is high, so wounded roots heal quickly. At the same time, some fine roots can grow from the root area, alleviating the deficiency in nutrient absorption capacity and ensuring the osmanthus tree successfully overwinters.
Osmanthus tree selection: Choose osmanthus trees with a full tree shape, luxuriant branches and leaves, no pests or diseases, and that are easy to dig up and hoist for transport.
Preparation work before transplanting large osmanthus trees
Digging the tree pit: About one week before transplanting, the tree pit at the new planting site should be dug. The pre-dug tree pit diameter should be about 1 m larger than the packaging diameter of the transplanted tree (to make it convenient for workers to operate inside the pit), and the height should be level with the height of the transplant packaging. The excavated topsoil and subsoil should be placed separately, spread out to dry, and impurities such as bricks and tiles in the soil should be cleaned out. Then mix in ferrous sulfate at a 10:1 ratio (with soil as 10 parts). This increases soil acidity, disinfects the soil, and also enhances fertility.
Pruning: Pruning of large osmanthus is one of the keys to transplant survival. Because large osmanthus has weak sprouting ability, trunk truncation and branch truncation are not advisable. Only the leaves of the osmanthus can be pruned, cutting off the leaf blades with scissors while leaving the petioles to protect the axillary buds, retaining one third of the original number of leaves. This can both reduce water evaporation and preserve the beauty of the original canopy.
Lifting and transporting large osmanthus trees
Lifting: For transplanting large osmanthus, hard packaging is best. The large osmanthus tree to be transplanted should be watered thoroughly once one week in advance so that its root system absorbs enough water. This makes it easy to dig into a ball and prevents the soil ball from breaking apart due to overly dry soil. The diameter of the soil ball should be 6-8 times the diameter of the canopy at 1 m above ground, and the height should be 70% of the soil ball diameter; if conditions permit, digging it larger is even better. When digging, remove the surface soil at the base of the trunk, dig a regular square trapezoid according to the required diameter, with the lower opening diameter being 1/3 of the upper opening diameter, and the dug soil ball diameter 5-10 cm larger than the template diameter (so the template can tighten the soil ball). While digging the soil ball, prepare the template, threaded rods (made from threaded steel bars), wire, and so on, so that the soil ball can be packaged promptly once dug. For large roots that need to be cut off when digging the soil ball, saw them off with a hand saw; do not chop with other tools. Treat the cut root surfaces with a paste made from sulfur powder and ABT rooting agent at a 3:2 ratio. Once the soil ball is dug, immediately fasten the template, tighten it with the threaded rods, and after the trunk is wrapped with straw rope, hoist it.
Transport: When hoisting the large osmanthus onto the vehicle, it should be placed upright. Pack native soil (the old soil from digging the soil ball) in woven bags around the soil ball and tie them securely, and wrap the canopy tightly with plastic film to prevent movement and swaying during transport.
Planting and later management of large osmanthus trees
Planting: Before planting, backfill the pre-dug tree pit with 10-15 cm of native soil brought back with the transported osmanthus tree. Because osmanthus trees are not tolerant of waterlogging, the planting depth of the osmanthus should be 10-15 cm higher than the original ground level. First lower the osmanthus tree and place it according to its original growth orientation, then place one plastic pipe at each of the four corners of the tree pit, so that after the tree pit is filled with soil, root aeration is increased. Then, while removing the template in order, backfill soil to 1/3 of the soil ball height, filling native soil closely around the soil ball, tamping layer by layer to prevent the soil ball from breaking. After the tree pit is completely filled and tamped, build a retaining ring, install supports, and water thoroughly the first time.
Later management: First, water thoroughly once again 3 to 4 days after the first watering. Second, after the water has completely dried, pile the remaining soil around the original tree pit around the roots, forming a mound that is high in the middle and low around the edges, so that the osmanthus tree will not be drowned by accumulated water. Third, in the following spring, be sure to water once with spring-opening water. Fourth, at an average temperature of about 20°C, spray the leaves and branches once every half month with a mixture of potassium dihydrogen phosphate and fungicide (carbendazim, etc.). This both applies foliar topdressing to the osmanthus tree and serves a sterilizing function.
That is all for sharing the technical key points of transplanting large osmanthus trees. I hope this article is helpful to everyone.
Extended reading:
Osmanthus tree planting techniques, cultivation methods, osmanthus flower language, uses and benefits
Cultivation methods and precautions for osmanthus trees
Common cultivated varieties of osmanthus include Dan Gui, Jin Gui, Yin Gui and Siji Gui. Different varieties bloom at different times, and the colors of their flowers are also different. Jin Gui blooms from September to October, and the color is often golden yellow. Yin Gui blooms from September to October, and the color is white or yellowish white. Dan Gui blooms in October, and the color is mostly orange-red or orange-yellow. Siji Gui blooms in all four seasons, with a small number of flowers every month, and the color is white.
Planting environment for osmanthus trees
1. Cuttage: The cuttage time is generally June-July or September-October, and the cutting bed should preferably be sandy loam. Select semi-mature branches of the current year as cuttings, with terminal branches being best. After cutting, shade promptly, water thoroughly, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. Generally, healing begins 20 days after cutting, and rooting occurs in 30-40 days. Winter protection measures are needed, and the following year the seedlings can grow to about 30 cm tall.
2. Layering: Layering is divided into air layering (high layering) and ground layering, and can be carried out in all four seasons. The air layering method is done in early April, while the ground layering method is best done in early April or during the plum rain season. When layering, wounding or ring-barking is always required, and after 1 year it is separated from the mother plant. For ground layering, the buried depth of the layer is about 4-5 cm, and the more bent the buried branch portion, the better.
3. Grafting: The grafting propagation time is March-April. The rootstock is mostly small-leaf privet (Ligustrum sinense) or large-leaf privet (Ligustrum lucidum). The grafting method is scion grafting; cleft grafting, cut grafting and approach grafting are all acceptable. During grafting, shading is required and moisture retention should be noted. For cut grafting and cleft grafting, the graft union should be as low as possible, generally cutting off the rootstock at 3 cm above the ground. After binding, mound soil up to the top of the scion so that it may possibly root from the scion portion and increase the survival rate.
4. Sowing: Sow in winter or early spring, in drills, with a row spacing of 15-20 cm, sowing 30-40 seeds per meter of row, and a sowing rate of 8-10 kg per mu, covering with humus soil or burned soil about 1.5 cm thick, and then covering with grass. Generally, germination begins 40-50 days after sowing and can continue for up to 50-60 days, with very uneven germination. July-September is the period of vigorous seedling growth, so attention should be paid to topdressing and drought resistance. One-year-old seedlings over 30 cm tall can be released from the nursery.
5. Nursery stock release: After layered and grafted seedlings have rooted, they can be planted in winter or planted in the nursery to cultivate large seedlings. Cuttage seedlings over 30 cm tall, sown seedlings over 25 cm tall, and with a ground diameter over 0.4 cm can be released from the nursery for afforestation or transplanted to the large-seedling cultivation area. When lifting seedlings, the root system should be kept as intact as possible. After lifting, plant promptly; if long-distance transport is needed, pay attention to moisture retention.
Variety classification of osmanthus trees
1. Siji Gui variety: Siji Gui is a clustered shrub form, with a low tree shape, short and dense branches, and a round spherical canopy. New leaves are dark red, and mature leaves are green or yellow-green. The leaf blades are elliptical broadly ovate, and the angle between the main vein and lateral veins is very large, approaching a vertical state. Flower buds are often solitary or stacked 2-3 together, blooming in batches from September each year to the following March, and the fragrance is not as rich as that of Yin Gui, Jin Gui or Dan Gui. Common varieties include large-leaf Siji Gui and small-leaf Siji Gui. Varieties that bloom in all four seasons include Yueyue Gui, Rixiang Gui, large-leaf Foding Zhu, and tooth-leaf Siji Gui.
2. Dan Gui variety group: Dan Gui is dioecious, with a round spherical canopy, light gray bark that is relatively smooth, and sparse lenticels. The leaves are leathery, long elliptic or elliptic, the leaf surface is relatively flat, the leaf margin is revolute, entire, occasionally with sparse teeth at the apex, the base is broadly cuneate, the apex is obtuse-acuminate or short-acuminate, with 8-10 pairs of lateral veins, reticulate veins obvious on both sides, and a petiole 8-10 mm long. The flower color is orange-red, the corolla is slightly inward-curved, the fragrance is faint, and the flowering period is late September to early October. Varieties include Dahua Dan Gui, Chi Dan Gui, Zhusha Dan Gui, and Kuanye Hong.
3. Jin Gui variety group: Jin Gui has a round spherical canopy, strong tree vigor, upright branches, and is very compact. The bark is gray, the lenticels are round or elliptical, and the spring shoots are relatively thick. The leaf color is dark green, the leaf blades are elliptic, the leaf surface is uneven, and the leaf margin is slightly wavy. The flower color is yellow, with a rich fragrance, and it does not set fruit. It blooms in autumn, with flowers ranging from pale lemon yellow to golden yellow. Varieties include Dahua Jin Gui, Daye Huang, Huangchuan Jin Gui, Wan Jin Gui, Yuanye Jin Gui, Xianning Wan Gui, Qiu Gui, Yuanbian Jin Gui, Liuye Su Gui, Jinshi Gui, and Boye Jin Gui.
4. Yin Gui variety group: Yin Gui has a round spherical canopy, spreading large branches, dense branches and leaves, and good growth. The bark is light gray, and the lenticels are numerous and large, shaped like snowflakes, very conspicuous. The leaves are green or dark green, long elliptic or elliptic, relatively broad and thick, and the leaf surface is relatively flat. It blooms in early to mid-September, the flower color is creamy yellow to lemon yellow, the fragrance is rich, it does not set fruit after flowering, and it blooms in autumn. Varieties include Kuanye Zi Yin Gui, Liuye Yin Gui, Yingye Yin Gui, Zi Yin Gui, Jiulong Gui, Zao Yin Gui, Wan Yin Gui, Baijie, Chunbai Yin Gui, and Qingshan Yin Gui.
In which month does osmanthus bloom?
1. Jin Gui: flowering period September-October, color golden yellow. Yin Gui: flowering period September-October, color white or yellowish white. Dan Gui: flowering period October, color orange-red or orange-yellow. Siji Gui: a small number of flowers every month, color white. In addition, osmanthus may bloom at slightly different times depending on the planting region. In Shanghai, Anhui and Jiangsu it basically blooms in October, in the Northeast region it basically blooms in August, in the Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei area it is September, and in the Sichuan, Guangxi and Shaanxi area it blooms in September.
2. Osmanthus will not bloom before it reaches flowering age. Osmanthus has a long lifespan, generally living from several decades to several hundred years, and some even live for a thousand years, so its flowering age is also relatively late. Seedling plants grown from seed take about ten years to bloom, cuttage plants take four years to bloom, grafted Jin Gui and Yin Gui have one fifth blooming by the following year, and grafted Siji Gui blooms in the same year but only very few. Some transplanted large osmanthus trees can bloom in the same year, while others need one or two years to adapt before blooming.
How much does one osmanthus sapling cost?
1. Variety: The variety of the osmanthus sapling determines the price level of the osmanthus sapling. Osmanthus is divided into four major varieties: Jin Gui, Yin Gui, Dan Gui and Siji Gui. Of course, each major variety also contains many minor varieties, but the prices of minor varieties under a major variety are all similar. Dan Gui has the highest price, and it blooms red flowers.
2. Size: Osmanthus saplings also come in large and small sizes, and large ones are of course more expensive. For small saplings, the industry generally now distinguishes size by sapling height (previously by tree age). At present, the most commonly planted osmanthus saplings are about one meter tall.
3. Place of origin: The place of origin of osmanthus saplings has a great relationship with price, because regional factors first cause the cost of cultivating osmanthus saplings in different places to differ, resulting in slight price deviations, and the delivery and transport costs of nursery stock are also greatly related to region.
4. Quantity: The purchase quantity of osmanthus saplings is also closely related to price. As everyone knows, when anything is bought wholesale, the price will certainly be cheaper.
How should osmanthus be grown so it grows well?
1. Timely watering: For potted osmanthus, the soil should follow the principle of not watering when not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering, but spray the leaf surface once a day with clean water. After Qingming Festival, move the osmanthus outdoors and water thoroughly once. In summer, water in the morning and evening, while in winter water around noon, so that the water temperature is close to the soil temperature and there is no sudden cold or heat. Note that waterlogging must be avoided.
2. Reasonable fertilizing: Osmanthus is mainly grown for its flowers, so sufficient fertilizer should be supplied. During shoot growth, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied 1-2 times. Before flower bud differentiation and flowering, phosphorus fertilizer should be the main type applied. Before fertilizing, the pot soil should be slightly dry, and it is best to loosen the soil first to facilitate fertilizer absorption. On the day after fertilizing, water once.
3. Repotting and soil replacement: Osmanthus should be repotted and have its soil replaced once every 2-3 years. Cut away part of the old roots and dead roots, place a layer of river sand or vermiculite at the bottom of the pot to facilitate aeration and drainage, and place decomposed cake fertilizer as base fertilizer. The filling soil must be pressed firm. The soil mixing ratio is not very strict; usually garden soil, composted manure and river sand can each make up 1/3 of the mixture.
4. Pruning and shaping: Osmanthus shaping generally adopts a method combining bending and tying with pruning, and is best done after autumn. For plants with a very poor tree shape, the branches of the entire top can be cut off at 2/3 or 3/4 of the height. For plants with overly dense branches, thinning should be carried out. After flowering, water sprouts, dead branches, diseased and pest branches, and dense weak branches should also be cut off.
5. Overwintering management: For overwintering osmanthus, the room temperature should preferably be kept at 0-5°C, and the relative humidity should be kept at 50-80%. In winter, the cold room should have good light, especially before the buds begin to sprout in early spring, when sufficient sunlight is even more required. The following year, after Grain Rain, arrange for the potted osmanthus to be moved out of the room. After moving out, first place them together outdoors in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot so they gradually adapt to the external environment.
6. Disease control: Common diseases of osmanthus include leaf spot disease, sooty mold, algal leaf spot, root rot, and iron deficiency. Leaf spot disease, sooty mold and algal leaf spot can be controlled by spraying 0.5 Bordeaux mixture or 5% carbendazim 500-1000 times solution. For root rot, care should be taken to keep the soil loose and breathable, and do not let water accumulate.
7. Pest control: Common pests of osmanthus include sawflies, whiteflies, mites, white peach scale, and yellow stinging caterpillars. Sawflies, whiteflies and mites can be killed by spraying 40% dimethoate 1500-3000 times solution. For white peach scale, besides manual brushing off, during the first and second instar nymph stages it can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate 1000 times solution or 40% fenitrothion 500 times solution.
Pruning methods for osmanthus bonsai
1. Pruning during the ornamental period refers to the pruning carried out after the osmanthus bonsai has taken shape, in order to maintain the graceful form of the shaped osmanthus tree. This kind of pruning is long-term and extensive, and must be done carefully.
2. For osmanthus bonsai cultivated from tree stumps, after shaping and pruning, the trunk and main branches have already been determined. What needs further processing and pruning are the secondary branches and the even finer tertiary branches. The basic points to grasp when processing and pruning these branches are: a branch should have a certain degree of curvature, and each branch should have a distinction between long and short, so as to appear graceful.
3. When pruning, messy crossing branches, overlapping branches, parallel branches and opposite branches should be adjusted, that is, one of them is cut off or one section is thinned out. The remaining branches can grow thick and strong because nutrients are concentrated. When a cultivated branch grows to a suitable thickness, carry out heavy pruning to shorten it and produce a second-section branch. When the second-section branch grows to a suitable thickness, cut it back again. Thereafter, treat the third and fourth sections and so on in the same way. Generally, keep two small branches on each section of branch, one long and one short. After years of pruning, the lower branches become short, thick and strong, vigorous and powerful, gradually forming the required tree shape.
Sowing methods for osmanthus seeds
1. In early February to April of the following year, sowing and seedling raising can be carried out only when the seeds crack open and show white. Generally, the drill sowing method is used, that is, making horizontal or vertical drill furrows on the seedling bed, with a furrow width of 12 cm and a furrow depth of 3 cm; sow 1 pre-germinated seed every 6-8 cm in the furrow. When sowing, place the seed hilum sideways to avoid bending of the radicle and young stem, which would affect seedling growth. In the Guilin area, wide-band drill sowing is usually used, with a row spacing of 20-25 cm and a band width of 10-12 cm, sowing 20 kg per mu, which can produce 25000-30000 seedlings.
2. After sowing, cover immediately with fine soil. The soil covering thickness should preferably not exceed 2-3 times the transverse diameter of the seed; after covering with soil, level the bed surface to avoid water accumulation; then cover with a thin layer of rice straw, to the extent that the soil is not visible, and stretch ropes to press it down to prevent the covering grass from being blown away by wind; then use a fine-hole watering can to spray water fully until the soil is thoroughly wet. Covering with grass and spraying water can keep the soil moist, avoid soil crusting, and promote early seed germination and early emergence.
How can osmanthus be made to bloom more?
1. Choose good potting soil: Osmanthus prefers slightly acidic soil. For potting, a mixture of 5 parts mountain soil, 3 parts humus soil and 2 parts sandy soil can be used, or half leaf mold and half sandy loam can be used as the growing medium. If the soil is too acidic, growth will be slow and leaves will wither and yellow. If alkaline soil is used, after 2-3 months the leaves can wither and even the plant can die.
2. Timely watering: Watering osmanthus should follow “two less, one more”, that is, water less before new shoots appear, water less on cloudy and rainy days, and water more during dry weather in summer and autumn. Normally, watering should keep the potting soil at about 50% water content. On cloudy and rainy days, drain promptly to prevent water accumulation in the pot from rotting the roots, otherwise it is easy to “drown”.
3. Skillful topdressing: Osmanthus likes pig manure. There is a flower proverb, “If you want osmanthus fragrance, prepare more pig manure vats.” If, after the osmanthus is moved outdoors in early spring, decomposed diluted pig manure liquid is applied, about once every 10-15 days in April-May, once every 7-10 days in June-July, and one last time in early August, then the osmanthus will grow luxuriantly, bloom more, and have a fragrant scent. In cities without pig manure, decomposed cake fertilizer liquid can be used. If fertilization is insufficient, there will be few branches and few flowers, and they will not be fragrant.
4. Appropriate pruning: Osmanthus has a developed root system and strong sprouting ability. An adult osmanthus tree produces two flushes of shoots each year. Therefore, to make osmanthus bloom abundantly and have luxuriant leaves, appropriate pruning is needed to maintain the physiological balance between reproductive growth and vegetative growth. Generally, water sprouts, thin weak branches, and diseased and pest branches should be cut off to facilitate ventilation and light penetration and concentrate nutrients, prompting the osmanthus to develop more and fuller flower buds, so that it blooms abundantly.