How to propagate night-blooming jessamine (Cestrum nocturnum) by cuttings? Master these key points

Night-blooming jessamine is a rather special ornamental flower. Gardeners who love it know that it has certain ornamental and medicinal value. If some gardeners want to propagate night-blooming jessamine themselves, they might consider the cutting propagation method.

Night-blooming jessamine

1. Selecting cuttings.Choose branches that are robust and free of pests and diseases. On the same plant, select current-year branches from the middle to upper part facing the sun; the branches should have short internodes, thick and strong stems and leaves, and plump buds. Do not use branches that are about to flower or leggy growth.

2. Choosing the substrate.Mix peat soil, leaf mold and sand at a ratio of 3:3:4 respectively. The resulting bed soil has the characteristics of raising bed temperature, retaining water, aerating, being fertile and slightly acidic, and is suitable for branch rooting and sprouting.

3. Treating the cuttings.Before cutting, treat the cuttings with agents such as ABT rooting powder, which has the effect of promoting rooting. Cut the cuttings into sections of 8 cm to 12 cm, each with 2 to 3 buds. The lower cut of the cutting should preferably be 0.5 cm below a node; the cut should be smooth. Remove the lower leaves, keeping only 2 to 3 leaves at the top. The insertion depth is generally about 3 cm.

4. Creating rooting conditions.The suitable rooting temperature is 20°C to 24°C. Generally, soil temperature being 3°C to 5°C higher than air temperature is favorable for rooting. The relative air humidity of the cutting bed is 80% to 90%, which is favorable for rooting, and about 30% light is required. Moisture should be appropriate: slightly more water in the early cutting stage, slightly drier later. The suitable period for open-field cutting locally is from early May to mid-June, when the climate is relatively good and can better meet the temperature and humidity conditions required for cuttings to root.

5. Strengthening post-cutting management.After cutting, water thoroughly, cover with plastic film, and place in a relatively shaded spot, or scatter straw on the film to prevent direct sunlight, and increase light at night to help the cuttings survive. Ventilate 1 to 2 times a day to replenish needed oxygen and prevent disease. Spray water frequently to keep the cutting bed moderately moist, but do not spray excessively, otherwise the bed becomes too wet and often affects callusing and rooting of the cuttings. When new roots of the cuttings grow to 2 cm to 3 cm, they can be transplanted into pots at the appropriate time.

Night-blooming jessamine and its cultivation techniques

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Flower planting manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower planting manual (February chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue doing a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protective facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cutting, grafting seedling raising and sowing seedling raising of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, petunia, California poppy, Phlox drummondii, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum majus, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, Malus (Rosaceae) that have been stratified in sand and have already cracked and shown white, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron chinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, etc. need to be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cutting. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cutting or cutting with plastic film mulching for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut current-year branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus orientalis, grape, Ficus carica, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cutting), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Crassula arborescens, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use 1-year-old thick black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film to preserve heat and moisture. Use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. South of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate fine cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou' and 'Huti' Chimonanthus praecox; using bagging and inflating for moisture retention measures gives a relatively high survival rate. Use thick branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock and scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for superior rose scions; adopting measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia denudata, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Ornithogalum, Bromeliaceae, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum species, Kalanchoe, Canna, Maranta, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Ardisia crenata, and winter coral can be picked, treated, then stratified in sand to promote germination, and sown only after the seed grains have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether there is seed mold, and if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity for the sand grains and seeds; if a small number of seed grains have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and field planted include: Dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edge holly, daisy, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be field planted. Among the deciduous types are Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron chinense, ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), Salix babylonica, Salix alba var. vitellina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, French holly, Machilus pingii, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus fragrans, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc. should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or in-tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the flower plants has greatly declined, so moisture retention and cold protection work should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue heating them, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue hanging the straw curtains; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care should be taken.

Overwintering potted flowers placed in protective facilities should continue to be ventilated and aired, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them inside the south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put on them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because the temperature is relatively low in February, for most potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrink and wrinkle and flower buds shrivel and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, winter coral, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically match the indoor and in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, Primula, Kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season orange, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits, so that the leaves can be emerald green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. In particular, for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom and show their beauty on schedule. For purchased Cymbidium orchids cultivated in greenhouses or plastic tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those at home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become shrunken and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., their potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    In February, although most potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened, especially during several consecutive days of continuous temperature rise, when supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, timely supplementary watering should be given. Especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, on sunny days around noon, appropriate leaf spraying should also be given to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilization. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to supply the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Aechmea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and tree stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

    4. Pruning. In February, for field-planted or potted plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have already flowered, retain only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to promote many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, leggy branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, etc. should also be pruned at the same time. For tree stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Jasminum dichotomum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula arborescens, Kalanchoe, Amaryllis, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Jacobinia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on Primula leaves, etc., at the early stage of the disease choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1500-fold dilution and spray, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray 50% iprodione wettable powder 1000 to 1500-fold dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer sprayed on the plants is hard to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium var. amara and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be sprayed and killed with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 2000-fold dilution. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated along with them.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, black brown round scale, etc. appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or sprayed and killed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate 2500-fold dilution, or controlled by burying and applying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flower pot.

Continue clearing dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after fully drying, package it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer granular powder can be scattered in flower pots as a topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue turning and cultivating garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for seedling raising or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, five-needle pine, Pinus taiwanensis, black pine, Pinus densiflora, Adina rubella, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue re-wiring and adjusting plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If constriction marks from binding are found on the plants, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue doing good work in heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from cracking and disintegrating due to freezing, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower planting manual (March chapter)

(I) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Field-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Field-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia denudata, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, plum blossom, rose, Ficus carica, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, peony, Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, Acer palmatum, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and humid conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis cv. kaizuca, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness or wetness in your courtyard, when choosing field-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: first, the lowest temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many, with 1 to 2 plants enough for a small courtyard, and a few more for a large courtyard; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as Ginkgo biloba, Japanese fir, Osmanthus fragrans, plum blossom, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many kinds of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for field planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena globosa, Celosia, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, Zephyranthes candida, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Brazilian iron, money tree, king coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, Bromeliaceae, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, Primula, Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota urens, Areca, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can plant and grow some types with relatively extensive management requirements, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Amaryllis, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Cactaceae, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, large thorn, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(II) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Acer palmatum, Liriodendron chinense. The latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand stratification to promote germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia denudata, Michelia species, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus chinensis, Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Punica granatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter coral, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species are better sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cutting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cutting in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Ficus carica, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha, etc. Cold-sensitive flowers are better cut in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate five-needle pine, Osaka pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Michelia and Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick Chimonanthus praecox seedlings as rootstock, when their leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions of fine Chimonanthus praecox cultivars and carry out cut grafting with bagging for moisture retention, giving a relatively high survival rate; using three-edged arrow as rootstock, grafting to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus balls is better carried out in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Acer palmatum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, straight cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Gardenia, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia denudata, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(III) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of field-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and field planting field-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, prune the branches and leaves somewhat to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc. is fine even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning is also needed. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, take a good and sufficient soil ball; generally the soil ball diameter should be greater than 6 times the trunk diameter.

(2) Fertilization. For field-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure and chicken droppings and pigeon droppings, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossoms, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning dead branches, pest-infested branches and leggy flowering branches, for current-year branches, cut at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering prune branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leaf expansion, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of field-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and field planted in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, daisy, hollyhock, Malva, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, five-needle pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile, organic-rich potting soil to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, rose, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still in indoor maintenance in March, and equal importance must be given to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March it is still necessary to continue cold protection and heat preservation work. In late March, open the doors and windows of the room during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and close them at night, so that Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still need to continue this month, and must not be treated lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota urens, Areca, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, Begonia species, combine with repotting and carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches and some yellowed leaves. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Pinus taiwanensis, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out before sprouting in March to further perfect their shapes. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, rose, ornamental peach, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, etc., severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(IV) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle layer is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick with more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, Cactaceae (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula, Echinocactus grusonii, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Schlumbergera, leaf cactus, Kalanchoe, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, Jasminum nudiflorum, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also a category of flower species relatively tolerant of sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony (especially high-floor balcony) potting, such as Punica granatum, rose, Ficus microcarpa, Ligustrum sinense, Agave, Amaryllis, Sageretia thea, Xylosma racemosum, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, black pine, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. kaizuca, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, five-needle pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Camellia japonica, Schefflera, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-layer balcony potted plants, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, Impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds have been collected, wash them clean and sow them indoors first, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time in plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting substrate, and at an indoor windowsill with relatively good light, cut and propagate Gardenia, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, Acer palmatum, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony pot cultivation are still kept indoors in March. While adopting measures such as insulation against cold and providing ventilation and light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively hardy flowering plants and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of the potted plants, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year but can cause plant death in severe cases. Measures such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into a shed can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex chinensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese apricot bonsai (Sageretia thea), water willow (Adina rubella), and Chinese privet (Ligustrum quihoui), pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and styled in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be done. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist and water once every 3 to 5 days, with appropriate misting. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, and camellia (Camellia japonica), necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Conduct a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, pruning off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases and destroying them. For dried and cracked cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture or similar for anti-decay treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can be built on the balcony with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) placed on top. Using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, some flowers that prefer humid air can be placed on it in summer, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, giant taro, little angel (Syngonium podophyllum), Ardisia crenata, and nandina (Nandina domestica). The stored water is ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before the potted flowers are moved out, you can also set up tiered shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers and select the support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once the potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Growing Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the cold air from the north moving southward weakens, the warm and humid air currents from the south become increasingly strong, and temperatures rise significantly. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving southward, they can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huaihe River. Only areas north of the Huaihe River and Yellow River still face the danger of snow and frost. After Guyu, the late frost period ends in areas south of the Jianghuai region, the minimum temperature is no lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases markedly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care. However, in the Huaibei region, potted flowers cannot be moved out until after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, the flower-related tasks are as follows:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include: spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor), moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), morning glory (Ipomoea), cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit), round-leaf cypress vine, tobacco flower (Nicotiana), petunia (Petunia hybrida), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), coreopsis (Coreopsis), snake's eye chrysanthemum, marigold (Tagetes erecta), red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), maple-leaved mallow, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), basil (Ocimum basilicum), asparagus fern (Asparagus cochinchinensis), cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), ladybell (Adenophora), sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), etc. Magnolia family flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia cylindrica), Baohua magnolia (Magnolia zenii), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Tianmu magnolia (Magnolia amoena), Wudang magnolia (Magnolia sprengeri), houpu magnolia (Magnolia officinalis), (Magnolia officinalis var. biloba), mountain lotus (Magnolia sieboldii), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), pseudo-monotypic magnolia (Parakmeria), manglietia (Manglietia), red-flowered manglietia (Manglietia insignis), Ruyuan manglietia (Manglietia ruyuanensis), big-fruited manglietia (Manglietia grandis), yellow orchid tree (Michelia champaca), banana shrub (Michelia figo), many-flowered michelia (Michelia floribunda), Lechang michelia (Michelia chapensis), Yunshan white orchid (Michelia), golden-leaved michelia (Michelia foveolata), Emei michelia (Michelia wilsonii), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), hybrid tulip tree, North American tulip tree, etc.; other ornamental trees and shrubs that can be sown in April

include: Japanese fir (Abies firma), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), golden larch (Pseudolarix kaempferi), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), Chinese yew (Taxus chinensis), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), Huangshan luan tree, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer spp.), ornamental padauk (Ormosia henryi), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer sweet (Calycanthus chinensis), pearl bush (Exochorda racemosa), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), nandina (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown fresh after harvest in April include: African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), primrose (Primula), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), and nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum). Among them, Japanese fatsia: at the end of April, pick fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft, rub and wash out the seeds, and sow them on fertile seedbeds. Alternatively, you can first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, covering with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have germinated, promptly remove the covering grass and set up a shade shed. For cultivating nipplefruit, peel the golden-yellow fruits picked, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and reach a height of 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be grown in pots for fruit viewing or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), dragon-claw pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach, red-flowered bristly locust (Robinia hispida), as well as cactus (Echinopsis) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: white crane flower (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), ferns, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), agave (Agave), silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), calathea, aloe, peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), etc. Flowering plants that can be divided in April include: crape myrtle, five-colored plum, red plum, pokeweed, purple crabapple, calla lily, Dutch iris, daylily, ginger lily, babysbreath, spring star flower, etc. Trees and shrubs that can be divided in April include: large-flowered hibiscus, daylily, beautyberry, yellow hibiscus, gardenia, Chinese peony, peony, sage, etc. In addition, water lily and water chestnut can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most flowering trees and shrubs that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus), mahonia (Mahonia), nandina (Nandina domestica), cypress (Cupressus), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea (Spiraea), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), bridal wreath (Spiraea prunifolia), paper bush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), and Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa).

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and roots are not excessively trimmed during repotting, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a root ball in April. For evergreen trees and shrubs such as camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), michelia (Michelia), and white orchid (Michelia alba), a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned off to reduce water transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), horse chestnut (Aesculus), linden (Tilia), crabapple (Malus), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), ornamental peach, Japanese apricot, and apricot. Generally, the diameter of the root ball for transplanting should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant. Only in this way, without damaging the root ball, can the transplanted plant be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), water willow (Adina rubella), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), winged spindle tree (Euonymus alatus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), velvet cypress, flower cypress, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), dwarf boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), paper bush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis). Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn (Crataegus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), firethorn (Pyracantha), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), fragrant olive (Osmanthus), golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), papaya (Chaenomeles), silverberry (Elaeagnus), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), and tigerthorn (Damnacanthus indicus).

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so they can always maintain a good ornamental appearance. For the care of five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, timely bud removal. When the winter buds swell and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male strobili. When needle bundle buds and male and female strobili can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female strobili at the tips of new shoots and male strobili at the base of new shoots to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, strictly control watering, watering only when dry, substituting misting for watering, to ensure that the new needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), rhododendron (Rhododendron), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia, daphne (Daphne odora), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium goeringii), large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), New Year orchid (Cymbidium sinense), and Phaius, because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer liquid to promote growth. For potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and white orchid (Michelia alba), topdressing should also be given, which can be monopotassium phosphate at a concentration of about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), michelia (Michelia), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and crabapple (Malus) after flowering, timely topdressing should also be applied to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Care

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then select a suitable pot for planting. Money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya (Chaenomeles), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), firethorn (Pyracantha), Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica), and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, pay attention to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to misting and spraying management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily to keep the cutting medium moist at all times, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Growing Manual Summer

Flower Growing Manual (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably. There is much continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a critical period for growing flowers. It plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, from south to north, the main tasks for flower growing are as follows:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown fresh after harvest in May mainly include: fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), broad-leaved mahonia (Mahonia bealei), and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica). When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry. Second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in moisture that could cause seeds to "regress." Third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up a shade shed to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), at the end of May, pick ripe blue-black fruits, mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, and store in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil cover should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), begonias (Begonia), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rhododendron (Rhododendron), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), fuchsia (Fuchsia), coral flower (Jatropha multifida), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), geranium (Pelargonium), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), jasmine (Jasminum), Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), kerria (Kerria japonica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), butterfly bush (Buddleja), trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), epiphyllum (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), rhaphidophora (Rhaphidophora), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), jewel leaf plant (Graptopetalum), mountain lotus (Magnolia sieboldii), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), lantana (Lantana camara), red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), schefflera (Schefflera), oleander (Nerium oleander), firethorn (Pyracantha), mahonia (Mahonia), and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate white orchid (Michelia alba) and banana shrub (Michelia figo). Use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and cloak maple. Use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy rhododendron cuttings to cleft graft Western rhododendron. Use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties. Use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties. Use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties; potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular stem (Hylocereus undatus) can be used as rootstocks for grafting and propagating Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid (Michelia alba), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia odorata, Western rhododendron, camellia (Camellia japonica), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and red maple (Acer palmatum). Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora).

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they will bloom on schedule by late September to early October, creating a joyful, lively, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), marigold (Tagetes erecta), dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), and begonias (Begonia).

    2. Transplanting

From late April to early May, when white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) flowers have faded and just before new buds sprout and leaves unfold, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a root ball and established in early May, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and silk tree (Albizia julibrissin).

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar misting, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance such as ferrous sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the water, at a concentration of 0.1% to 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), rhododendron (Rhododendron), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), daphne (Daphne odora), clivia (Clivia miniata), chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), crabapple (Malus), and red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa). Foliage plants include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Monstera deliciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), calathea, bromeliads, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), and schefflera (Schefflera). Fruit-viewing plants include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), firethorn (Pyracantha), kumquat (Fortunella), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), nandina (Nandina domestica), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Ardisia crenata.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For white orchid (Michelia alba) that has just been moved outdoors, special attention should be paid when pruning back because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water, dries out, and extends downward. For this reason, cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained. Never cut too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), prune after flowering by lowering about 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For potted wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), also pay attention to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud. Otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), calathea, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink taro, fan palm (Livistona), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), orchids, rhododendron (Rhododendron), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), camellia (Camellia japonica), and sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua). For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), jasmine (Jasminum), and white orchid (Michelia alba). Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), water willow (Adina rubella), oak (Quercus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), and soft pine require sufficient light. Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tigerthorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), and five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia (Camellia japonica), rhododendron (Rhododendron), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), white orchid (Michelia alba), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), daphne (Daphne odora), clivia (Clivia miniata), orchids, and crabapple (Malus), after flowering remove spent flowers and faded stems and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as a supplement, once every half month, to restore vegetative growth while laying a foundation for re-developing flower buds. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Monstera deliciosa, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and ferns, apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colorful spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), multicolored bromeliad, golden-heart Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), white butterfly arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), and pink taro, apply 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution as a foliar feed to make the leaf color more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa), pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For citrus butterfly larvae (Papilio xuthus) that commonly appear on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), kumquat (Fortunella), golden bean, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), and rue (Ruta), spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), fragrant olive (Osmanthus), and ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba). It is worth noting that styling must be done carefully, trying not to damage the bark and structure of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Growing Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Jianghuai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, the plum rain season began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, equally matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and for the vast majority of bonsai, care should be taken to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which can disrupt styling or affect normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, from south to north, the main tasks for flower growing are as follows:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose (Primula), lotus seeds, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox). For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the inner seeds are brown, they can be harvested. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule, extract the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean moist sand to germinate. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white; at this point, open a furrow and sow. The soil cover is generally 2 to 3 cm thick. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons have emerged, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and promptly set up a shade shed.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, with high temperatures and high humidity, the cambium in flowering plant branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category includes species that are difficult to root from hardwood cuttings or root slowly, such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), michelia (Michelia), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex chinensis), lilac (Syringa), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Japanese quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), coral tree (Viburnum awabuki), coral tree (Erythrina), Belgian rhododendron, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) (with aerial roots), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), metasequoia (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum). The other category includes species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood (Buxus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), Forsythia, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), pomegranate (Punica granatum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Chinese pea shrub (Caragana sinica), Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), dragon-leaf pearl, lantana (Lantana camara), kerria (Kerria japonica), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), nandina (Nandina domestica), trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), Hypericum, Hypericum, golden willow (Salix vitellina), dragon-claw willow (Salix babylonica var. tortuosa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), Ardisia crenata, paper bush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Weigela florida, Weigela, oak-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), peach coral (Solanum), schefflera (Schefflera), mahonia (Mahonia), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), bridal wreath (Spiraea prunifolia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), and poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon (Ipomoea cairica), ground ivy (Parthenocissus), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), chenille plant, qianqiu tea, heliotrope (Heliotropium), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), geranium (Pelargonium), coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), begonias (Begonia), pansy (Viola tricolor), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), and sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus).

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia (Camellia japonica) and osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) as an example: The cutting time is from early June to mid-July, ideally when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut is dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution for 10 seconds, briefly dried, and inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length. The spacing is 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches over the seedbed, cover with plastic film, and press the edges firmly with mud. Set up a double-layer shade shed for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: Use potted seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties. Use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstocks to graft white orchid (Michelia alba), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and others. Bud grafting: Use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) seedlings as rootstock to bud graft superior Chinese rose varieties. Use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstocks to bud graft longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba). Use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstocks to graft and propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. Cleft grafting: Use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstocks to cleft graft camellia (Camellia japonica) and sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua). Use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy rhododendrons as rootstocks to cleft graft or side graft Belgian rhododendron or Western rhododendron.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron (Rhododendron), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Weigela florida, oleander (Nerium oleander), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), lilac (Syringa), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), red maple (Acer palmatum), Aglaia odorata, chloranthus (Chloranthus), jasmine (Jasminum), and white orchid (Michelia alba).

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), purple-back inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), bromeliads, Haworthia, cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), acorus (Acorus), and golden-edge lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus).

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus (Dianthus chinensis), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), dwarf catchfly (Silene gallica), tall catchfly (Silene armeria), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), primrose (Primula), calceolaria (Calceolaria), and amaryllis (Hippeastrum) (sow fresh after harvest).

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: After collecting wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing without affecting the germination rate. Peach and apricot should be sown fresh after harvest, or the seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit coat removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo. When they germinate, select a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, establishment, or potting. They are: evening primrose (Oenothera), spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), primrose (Primula), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), red tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia (Petunia hybrida), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), dragon's mouth flower, summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), and red-green grass (Alternanthera).

In summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs such as Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), broad-leaved mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia (Mahonia), Hypericum, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-edge privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), and boxwood (Buxus), under special circumstances, transplanting with a root ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, strengthen misting and shading management.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    In June, watering potted flowers should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time. It is best at 10 AM or 5 PM. Generally, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, water temperature. Keep the irrigation water and potting soil temperature basically consistent. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and misting. When there has been no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pots, also mist the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there are continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and mist based on the dryness and wetness of the potting soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel (Oxalis articulata), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), and begonias (Begonia). When temperatures reach above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, reduce watering and just keep the potting soil moist. Deep-dormant species such as: cyclamen (Cyclamen), lycoris (Lycoris), ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), and Dutch peony. At high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers on their sides, and after the rain stops, stand them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), calathea, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), money tree (Pachira aquatica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), daphne (Daphne odora), rhododendron (Rhododendron), fragrant osmanthus, lantana (Lantana camara), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), and firethorn (Pyracantha), apply thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their growth and flowering and fruiting needs.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant (Crassula ovata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), crystal (Haworthia), (Senecio), squirrel tail (Sedum morganianum), (Lampranthus), (Stapelia), and sedums (Sedum), when temperatures reach above 35°C, stop fertilizing to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), snow willow, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), and firethorn (Pyracantha), promptly prune or cut back branches that affect the shape, so the plant maintains distinct layers and a good appearance, and promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape as early as possible.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), promptly remove spent flowers and faded stems, and appropriately cut back the flowering branches to promote lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid (Michelia alba), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), rhododendron (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and crabapple (Malus), in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch and remove buds from overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote lateral bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage from intense sunlight. Such as: plantain lily (Hosta), purple hosta, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), rhododendron (Rhododendron), chloranthus (Chloranthus), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), pink taro, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Peperomia, giant taro, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm (Livistona), daphne (Daphne odora), cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), and spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum). Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate (Punica granatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), peach blossom, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Sageretia thea, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), oak (Quercus), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Japanese red pine (Pinus), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), mahonia (Mahonia), and grape (Vitis). Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tigerthorn (Damnacanthus indicus), nandina (Nandina domestica), Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), and Buddhist pine (Podocarpus nagi) can be appropriately shaded.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), papaya (Chaenomeles), firethorn (Pyracantha), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), and crabapple (Malus) are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poisoned sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa) are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) White orchid (Michelia alba), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) are prone to aphid damage. Promptly select appropriate pesticides to spray and kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection. Promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for prevention and control.

(5) Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella), and Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis) have tender leaves prone to being eaten by citrus butterfly larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted in early spring for acclimatization or planted in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), silverberry (Elaeagnus), Huashan pine (Pinus armandii), Chinese cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex chinensis), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Midget crabapple (Malus micromalus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), dwarf boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), snow willow, and firethorn (Pyracantha). Styling in June must be careful, with light and slow wiring. Never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Mangzhong (Grain in Ear); June 21 is Xiazhi (Summer Solstice).

Flower Growing Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 marks the beginning of the dog days, and August 15 marks their end, with most parts of the country entering the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and 28°C in areas south of the Jianghuai region. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. The main tasks for flower care in July are as follows:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), fairy primrose (Primula malacoides), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), and campanula (Campanula). When sowing, pay attention to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light.
    In July, ripe fruits of Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wild peach, mountain peach, and elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba) can also be collected. After washing off the flesh, immediately open a furrow and sow, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds can be sown fresh after harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing without affecting the germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: skullcap (Scutellaria barbata), begonias (Begonia), coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), clearweed (Pilea), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), geranium (Pelargonium), Dutch aster (Aster novi-belgii), purple loosestrife (Lythrum), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), coral flower (Jatropha multifida), peperomia (Peperomia), rhaphidophora (Rhaphidophora), Chinese knotweed (Polygonum chinense), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), and pothos (Epipremnum aureum).
    Woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), nandina (Nandina domestica), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), Hypericum, Hypericum, Weigela florida, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Weigela, oak-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), bridal wreath (Spiraea prunifolia), daphne (Daphne odora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), paper bush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), mountain lotus (Magnolia sieboldii), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum), chloranthus (Chloranthus), schefflera (Schefflera), mahonia (Mahonia), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), firethorn (Pyracantha), cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), michelia (Michelia), coral tree (Viburnum awabuki), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Tianmu viburnum, boxwood (Buxus), fig (Ficus carica), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), rhododendron (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), dragon-claw willow (Salix babylonica var. tortuosa), and golden willow (Salix vitellina). Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering plants can also be propagated by the water-cutting method. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To propagate flowering plants by the water-cutting method, first, prepare a thick 1 cm to 2 cm foam plastic board, perforate it, and use it as the fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for the cuttings clean, and put in a few pieces of charcoal for anti-rot purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach and wild peach can be used as rootstock, and by bud grafting, propagate ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, red-leaf plum, Meiren plum, etc.; use the cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and 'Shisimei' as rootstock, and by bud grafting propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses, etc.; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, and by * grafting propagate white orchid, Michelia figo, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock, and by * grafting propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of green-branch side grafting with bagging to retain moisture, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether they have survived; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the red azaleas as rootstock, and by cleft grafting or side grafting propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, and by bud grafting propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; use the current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Hubei crabapple, or Hall crabapple and crabapple as rootstock, perform "T"-shaped bud grafting, and propagate superior varieties of crabapple types; use Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, and by bagged grafting propagate red maple, feather maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering plants that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, weigela, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus species, umbrella plant, Aspidistra, Rhoeo discolor, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting
    1. Seed collection
    Flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flowering plant seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, wild peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting, and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up the herbaceous flowers to be displayed during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedling-raised or cutting-raised plants. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom exactly during the National Day period for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management, and do not be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy at high temperatures, such as red-flowered oxalis, Pelargonium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio rowleyanus, Daphne, Christmas cactus, portulacaria, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, bleeding heart, etc., in July the aboveground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia, Chloranthus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, green queen, pink lady leaf, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, tea plum, Aucuba, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but also appropriate leaf-surface spraying should be given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and no carelessness is allowed. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Do not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum trunks, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot draws out 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. It is best to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants whose fertilization management should be strengthened. The first is species with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia, jasmine, etc.; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; the third is species for winter flower and fruit viewing, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; the fourth is foliage plants, such as palm bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer by watering is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, gold brush flower, shrimp plant, Jian orchid, marigold, four-o'clock, dragon's mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, tea plum, hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, Aglaia, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus, wintersweet, hibiscus, cotton rose, etc. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, palm bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, giant taro, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, etc.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as sedum species, Senecio, Lampranthus, Stapelia, etc. Fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent plant rot.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be topped and have buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young shoot tips and terminal buds with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adinandra, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, Pyracantha, Podocarpus, tamarisk, Elaeagnus, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry, Fukien tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, serissa, orange jasmine, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as juniper, Oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis, etc.
For potted flower species that continue blooming for a long time, such as Aglaia, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, etc., their faded flowers and withered stalks should be removed in time, and the branches that have already bloomed should be shortened as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For rhododendron, camellia, tea plum, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., the overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from direct scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, tea plum, rhododendron, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchid species, palm bamboo, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pink lady leaf, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, Pyracantha, jasmine, serissa, sago palm, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus parviflora, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus, Buddhist pine, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus, cloud bamboo, hedge bamboo, five-needle pine, etc., appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because this month's temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
For air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a thicker cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, golden hibiscus, fan palm, palm bamboo, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba, etc., while sword fern, coleus, giant taro, Syngonium, etc. are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing leaf tips to wither and edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more favorable for the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times solution or folpet 500 times solution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leafroller that damages boxleaf euonymus, boxwood, sharp-leaf boxwood, and pearl boxwood. When this insect occurs severely, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to damage the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, kumquat, fingered citron, lemon, citron, and rue. Stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that damages privet, small-leaf privet, water wax, and white wax tree has its emergence period from late July to late August. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging large-leaf euonymus, London plane, Pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and the plants are required to be those potted in spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus, arborvitae, creeping juniper, serissa, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, with gentle wiring and slow tying, applying force gradually. Do not operate hurriedly or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 Minor Heat; July 23 Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August has high temperature, strong light, and low humidity, and is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Armand pine, Podocarpus, Chinese juniper, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon, Aglaia, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated ficus, hibiscus, lantana, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, palm bamboo, money tree, Schefflera, frangipani, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, broadleaf Mahonia, Japanese aralia, golden-spotted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fukien tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, variegated shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo-joint begonia, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, silver queen, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Podocarpus, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be stored in sand to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit matures and cracks, the fleshy layer outside the seeds is rubbed off, and the seeds are stored in sand until germination and then sown. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, blue flax, petunia, snapdragon, purple coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, and carrying out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flowering plant species can be propagated: Pyracantha, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Erythrina, Aglaia, golden-spotted Aucuba, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus, rubber tree, galax wood, Podocarpus, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood species, pomegranate, hibiscus, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, spiraea, snow spray, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering plants can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock and by * grafting propagate osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and by * grafting propagate white orchid; use current-year seedlings of wild peach as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering plum, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use cherry seedlings as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, pink cluster rose, etc. as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate superior variety roses; use seedlings of Malus baccata, flowering crabapple, Hubei crabapple, etc. as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate Mulus micromalus and Hall crabapple; use green maple as rootstock and by crown replacement grafting propagate red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and by branch grafting propagate variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and by branch grafting propagate superior variety camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and by branch grafting and * grafting propagate superior variety wintersweet flowers. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, Lady Banks' rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Mulus micromalus, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia figo, hibiscus, Podocarpus, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, little angel, multi-head green emperor, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, Aspidistra, umbrella plant, buttonbush, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular oxalis, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch chrysanthemum, fine-leaf Acorus, sword fern, silver queen, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also be divided into small bulbs this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shade, watering, and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be obtained, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge thousand-head arborvitae, golden-heart (edge) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus, Michelia figo, Chinese juniper ball, Shu juniper ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, hibiscus, Aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, etc., which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, road hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. For ground-planted ball-type plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Shu juniper, bayberry, Pyracantha, Pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, holly, etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering plants that continue blooming for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, hibiscus, bougainvillea, lantana, etc., faded flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be shortened appropriately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, marigold, etc., topping and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and planted herbaceous flowers, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants with straw ropes tied around the trunks, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edge (heart) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf sand cherry, croton, red mulberry, golden-spotted Aucuba, variegated shell ginger, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, lantana, etc., as well as species about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, tea plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed through leaf-surface topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, Pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate 1000 times solution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus, summer wintersweet, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping water temperature basically consistent with soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia, etc., water droplets on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette also must not be sprinkled with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and sprayed more, and water should be poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, watering and spraying should be controlled, just maintaining the potting soil slightly moist. By spraying the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, palm bamboo, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, beautiful date palm, areca palm, fish-tail palm, fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, sword fern, Pandanus tectorius, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon (peace wood), dragon-phoenix wood, Syngonium, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink lady leaf, Schefflera, Aucuba, pocket coconut, croton, Japanese aralia, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, Chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, lantana, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, fingered citron, kumquat, lemon, coralberry, Pyracantha, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, autumn chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, pocket sunflower, etc., apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, tea plum, plum blossom, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, promptly spray the leaves once to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangular oxalis, cactus species, cactus ball species, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause plant root rot or death.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer coolness, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, rubber tree, areca palm, giant taro, Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, palm bamboo, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid species, pink lady leaf, pepperomia, bromeliads, water ball flower, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, phoenix-tail bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, pocket coconut, net-veined grass, purple velvet, blood-leaf orchid, silver queen, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, begonia species, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., shade frames can continue to be provided, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue pinching or pruning those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Fukien tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, etc., shorten the branches after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Oriental arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fukien tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia, trident maple, Podocarpus, etc. In August, some flowers on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, Dendrobium orchid, Cattleya orchid, New Year orchid, Vanda orchid, Oncidium, South American cycad, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, giant taro, red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, king coconut, little angel, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, palm bamboo, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, net-veined grass, gold brush flower, Brazilian wood, Japanese aralia, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting substrate can be rice chaff ash mixed with fine sand in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, golden-spotted Aucuba, bamboo-joint begonia, gardenia, gold brush flower, coral flower, fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen, camellia, tea plum, Michelia figo, etc. Around noon for 5 to 6 hours, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, Aucuba, fig, Cordyline, frangipani, Pelargonium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that prefer a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand bed, place 10 cm thick wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, little angel, camellia, tea plum, Syngonium, spring orchid, Jian orchid, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus, etc. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe overwintering. For large-flowered cymbidium, tiger-head orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya orchid, fuchsia, Dendrobium orchid, crystal anthurium, black-leaf alocasia, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus parviflora, wisteria, Fukien tea, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering and fruit-viewing plants, such as white orchid, Aglaia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, Pyracantha, fingered citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus, Fukien tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full light, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus, Chinese juniper, Fukien tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can not only retain moisture and lower temperature, but also protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, serissa, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fukien tea, Chinese juniper, Oriental arborvitae, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, Pyracantha, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spiders are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder 1500 times solution to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them

Flower Planting Manual (September Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, the temperature in most parts of China gradually decreases, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus, bamboo-leaf podocarp, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian iron, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated ficus, hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, palm bamboo, frangipani, bottle palm, broadleaf Mahonia, Japanese aralia, golden-spotted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fish-tail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline, beautiful date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia, white orchid, orange jasmine, Pandanus tectorius, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, marigold, five-color pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that summer wintersweet can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, the other species above must all be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, carnation, tall silene, dwarf silene, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, flowering plant species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, golden-spotted Aucuba, fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus, golden-vein justicia, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedling bed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, Hypericum, spiraea, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, snow spray, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flowering plants can be propagated by grafting: use peony root segments as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and by bagged moisture-retaining branch grafting propagate red maple, feather maple, etc.; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate superior varieties of white magnolia and Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and by * grafting propagate white orchid; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and by bud grafting propagate kumquat, etc.; use fringe tree as rootstock and by * grafting propagate osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and by * grafting propagate superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering plant species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, Michelia figo, camellia, Chloranthus, French holly, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: spring orchid, cymbidium, Jian orchid, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangular oxalis, Rudbeckia, snake plant, little angel, multi-head green emperor, silver queen, sword fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, Aspidistra, large-leaf Liriope, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Mediterranean bluebell, etc. can also be divided into daughter bulbs at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless required by special circumstances, flowering plants are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of having good soil balls. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, Michelia figo, Shu juniper, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, Hypericum, French holly, red-flowered ?, golden-spotted Aucuba, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthened watering, spraying, and shading management can ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning courtyard hedges and ball-type ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of ball-type plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edge thousand-head arborvitae, etc. Ball-type ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Chinese juniper, Shu juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, Pyracantha, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be topped and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, etc. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots. Stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming for a long time, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off faded flowers and withered stalks, and appropriately shorten the branches that have already bloomed, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted into the garden in the spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying water management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers planted successively, the work of spraying water to preserve moisture should also be done well.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, shell ginger, croton, spotted aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep their leaf color fresh and vivid at all times, appropriate topdressing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs that bloom continuously or are enjoyed for their flowers or fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season orange, pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to topdress with quick-acting fertilizers balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus that are in bloom, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms flowering trees and shrubs such as crape myrtle, firethorn, and crabapple, spraying 800 times dilution of 90% trichlorfon crystal can be used for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, poison sticks can be inserted into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder can be used for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees and shrubs of the Magnoliaceae family, such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia multiflora, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia. In addition, there are also buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, Chinese yew, and shining wintersweet, etc. For Magnoliaceae as well as Chinese yew, buckeye, crabapple, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown only after the seeds crack open. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, and China aster, etc. After collection, thresh them promptly, store them dry until spring of the following year, and then sow.
Management of Potted Flowers in the Courtyard
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month they can be watered or sprayed once in the morning and once in the afternoon, and in the second half of the month reduced to once, with appropriate spraying of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, they can be watered once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaves. The watering time should be before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and resume growth after the beginning of autumn, the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, the soil should be loosened once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period when most flowers are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer have also begun to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so fertilization management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, money tree, Brazilian wood, philodendron bipinnatifidum, palm grass, Chinese gray fagraea, cinnamon species, money tree (dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine, fishtail palm, pothos, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, maranta species, arrowhead vine, and fiddle-leaf fig, etc., low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid should still be the main choice, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with an especially long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is in autumn, such as Chinese rose, tricolor sage, lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, and osmanthus, etc.; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, nandina, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet tree, beautyberry, and fruiting pomegranate, etc.; and for colorful-leaf plants such as croton, spotted aucuba, bromeliad species, variegated ficus, golden-edged Brazilian wood, cordyline, and coleus, etc., fertilizers balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be topdressed. For fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, begonia, daphne, crab claw orchid, sedum species, purslane tree (jade leaf), purple triangular wood sorrel, clivia, and epiphyllum, etc., that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed by watering; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud expansion stage, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, banana shrub, and azalea, etc., low-concentration nutritionally balanced fertilizer types can be topdressed; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, and dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be topdressed once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still strong, so the shading management of potted flowers in the courtyard still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving and cool-loving foliage plant species, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, sword fern, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, arrowhead vine, maranta species, pothos, palm grass, green emperor, silver queen, orchid grass, dieffenbachia, queen palm, cast-iron plant, begonia, Rhaphidophora, little angel, red (green) gem, crystal anthurium, Alocasia amazonica, fittonia, red-veined shrimp plant, asparagus fern, Schefflera, variegated brake fern, watermelon peperomia, variegated dieffenbachia, green giant, anthurium, staghorn fern, mirror grass, water buttonbush, emperor palm, and lucky bamboo, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light each day; for light-loving species, such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fukien tea, ginkgo, water willow, black pine, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak tree, and Chinese fringe tree, etc., full light can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red nan, loropetalum, epiphyllum, nandina, jade tree, azalea species, camellia, sasanqua, finger citron, bitter orange, and kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pearl orchid, bougainvillea, lantana, golden shrimp plant, and coral flower, etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, Fukien tea, banyan tree, red nan, small-leaf privet, water willow, boxwood, Chinese arborvitae (stump), true juniper, Chinese fringe tree, and tamarisk, etc., pruning or bud pinching should continue to be given. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, and ornamental peach, etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, and felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowering trees and shrubs, 1500 times dilution of 40% Supracide can be used for control.
Potted Plants Suitable for Display on the Balcony
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowering trees and shrubs can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, brocade pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, plum yew, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, boxwood, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fukien tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan tree, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chinese hackberry, Buddhist pine, Siberian elm, snow-in-summer, firethorn, and lantana, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as cymbidium, oncidium, dendrobium, cattleya, vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, crystal anthurium, anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, and fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as palm grass, split-leaf philodendron, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, cast-iron plant, areca palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, spotted tree, spotted aucuba, and Schefflera, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to preserve moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, cordyline, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, pearl orchid, jasmine, red-backed excoecaria, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, banana shrub, and silver-veined aglaonema, etc. Schefflera, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, and Guangdong evergreen can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as spring orchid, sword-leaved cymbidium, cymbidium, split-leaf philodendron, cast-iron plant, camellia, sasanqua, little angel, pearl orchid, and bromeliad, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water vat, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and normally spraying water can replace watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more spraying and less watering should also be done, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, they can continue to be watered once a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times, or the immersion pot method can be used to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, paying attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and adding a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied by watering; for vigorously growing potted bonsai stumps, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied by watering after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees and shrubs mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as white orchid, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, pearl orchid, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should continue to be topdressed; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, and chrysanthemum, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium can be applied as appropriate according to the different species. The types of fertilizer topdressed for flowers and trees on the balcony should not carry unusual odors, especially not foul odors, and when applying by watering, take care not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc. can continue to be placed over the pot surface; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, supports can continue to be set up and shade nets pulled over to block the light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, water willow, boxwood, trident maple, banyan tree, Fukien tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, and Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees and shrubs, dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded flowers and stalks should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees and shrubs are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be killed by spraying 1500 times dilution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder; for the double-striped spruce longhorn beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, and Chinese cypress bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, and longevity peach, etc., poison sticks can continue to be inserted or carbofuran buried for control; for the various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, etc., when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, 1500 times dilution of 40% Supracide can be sprayed for control.

Flower Planting Handbook Winter

Flower Planting Handbook (October Edition)

Flowers Suitable for Display in the Courtyard

In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. There are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in the courtyard this month, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Chinese gray fagraea, Cinnamomum kotoense, osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated ficus, hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, palm grass, ponytail palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, thick-leaf ficus, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, cordyline, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, Garcinia subelliptica, giant Buddha-belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, Pandanus, orange jasmine, and nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's mouth flower, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, petunia, and Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of Courtyard Flowers

1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer wintersweet, Ardisia, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, Chinese yew, fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela florida, palm, and pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of summer wintersweet and Weigela florida can be stored dry until spring sowing, for the other species the seeds can be cleaned, stored in wet sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy and rotten. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, and verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-backed excoecaria, Schefflera, night-blooming cestrum, lantana, firethorn, mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum, cordyline, banana shrub, aucuba, hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, pearl orchid, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela florida, snowball, red-flowered spirea, snowflake, St. John's wort, red-leaf plum, Chinese rose, Chinese snowball, crape myrtle, hibiscus, oleander, fig, and flowering quince, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowering trees and shrubs propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, begonia, bamboo-node begonia, wandering Jew, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, golden-veined shrimp plant, and winter chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and brocade pine with moisture retention; using peony roots as rootstock, graft superior varieties of tree peony; using 1-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple, feather maple, etc. with moisture retention; using 1-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, and red-flowered magnolia, etc.; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft various cactus balls; using 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.

4. Layering. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela florida, hydrangea, weigela, flowering quince, August osmanthus, snowball, Chinese snowball, purple magnolia, gardenia, St. John's wort, French holly, winter jasmine, forsythia, banana shrub, snowflake, and red-flowered spirea, etc.

5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: nandina, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, tree peony, flowering quince, snowball, double-flowered kerria, spiraea, spirea, and sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, hosta, spring orchid, purple hosta, bird of paradise, cymbidium, sword-leaved cymbidium, Persian buttercup, black-eyed Susan, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, silver-veined aglaonema, purple triangular wood sorrel, multi-head green emperor, sword fern, and cast-iron plant, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, spider lily, tulip, and Mediterranean bluebell, etc.

Management of Ground-planted Flowers in the Courtyard

1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplanting can be carried out after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaved spirea, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, and golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as leatherleaf mahonia, nandina, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, golden-edged Chinese arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf euonymus, boxwood, and Korean boxwood, etc., when transplanting, first, pruning back should be carried out before transplanting; second, a good soil ball should be taken; third, watering and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, and lily turf, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, and hyacinth, etc.

2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for the hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged Chinese arborvitae, golden-edged euonymus, large-leaf euonymus, boxwood, French holly, privet, photinia, and small-leaf privet, etc. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, and firethorn, etc. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, lantana, and bougainvillea, etc., faded flowers and stalks should continue to be cut off, and the branches that have flowered should be moderately pruned back. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, and globe amaranth, etc., the open inflorescences should be cut off in time to encourage the side shoots to continue producing buds and blooming, thereby extending the ornamental period.

3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees and shrubs newly planted in the same year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying, first, keep the root soil moist but not waterlogged; second, continue to spray water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, the work of spraying water to preserve moisture should also be done well.

4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, it is advisable to topdress with quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for osmanthus species that have already flowered, base fertilizer can be buried in a ring-shaped trench; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, and camellia, banana shrub, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for nandina and firethorn that are in the fruit-viewing state, as well as southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, and golden bullet tree, etc., a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied by watering, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. Dead branches and fallen leaves in the courtyard should be swept up and concentrated for burning in time. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, trunk whitewashing can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, podocarpus, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia dawsoniana, Michelia champaca, golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered manglietia, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress, palm grass, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, small-leaf privet, Chinese snowball, hall crabapple, papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, Chinese yew, and oil tea, etc. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, Japanese cedar, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, southern sour jujube, redbud, camptotheca, bishop wood, and five-angle maple, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, garden balsam, four-o'clock, summer cypress, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain, Mexican fire plant, mimosa, and dancing grass, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes and store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in the spring of the following year.

Management of Potted Flowers in the Courtyard

1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, cast-iron plant, split-leaf philodendron, pothos, arrowhead vine, Chinese gray fagraea, Cinnamomum kotoense, green giant, and red gem, etc., on sunny days it is advisable to water once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after the beginning of autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, purslane tree, daphne, geranium, and fuchsia, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and more spraying done, so as to facilitate the expansion of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots and help them survive the winter safely. The watering time is best at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after the autumn cool, low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer should be topdressed in time; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, black orchid, Belgian azalea, and pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, a mixture of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea should continue to be topdressed; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, and some low-concentration potassium fertilizer should be appropriately topdressed to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral, rich seed, and golden bullet tree, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be topdressed in early to mid-October.

3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as dieffenbachia, split-leaf philodendron, maranta species, arrowhead vine, green gem, Boston fern, and peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid to late October, dead branches and fallen leaves, diseased and pest-infested branches, and weak thin branches should be cut off first; for leggy branches, strong pruning back should be carried out; for ties that have been shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or retied after being untied, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid to late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees and shrubs, collect them together, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control should be carried out against aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leafminer larvae, and inchworms, etc.

Potted Plants Suitable for Display on the Balcony

In early to mid-October, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees and shrubs that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, brocade pine, Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringe tree, Fukien tea, Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, boxwood, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf ficus, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, firethorn, lantana, tamarisk, and red maple, etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flowering tree and shrub species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month, such as cymbidium, crystal anthurium, fittonia, cattleya, phalaenopsis, and oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as palm grass, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, cast-iron plant, areca palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, spotted tree, and Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees and shrubs can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to preserve moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, banana shrub, jasmine, pearl orchid, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, hibiscus, finger citron, silver-veined aglaonema, golden pothos, and geranium, etc.

Management of Balcony Flowers

1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan tree, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, and jasmine, etc., they can be watered once a day, supplemented by spraying the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, and Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be too much, and spraying the branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as split-leaf philodendron, philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, cast-iron plant, cordyline, bird's nest fern, anthurium, money tree, maranta species, and pothos, etc., spraying should be the main method and watering supplementary, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as cymbidium, bromeliad, and Chinese cymbidium, etc., a mixture of 0.2% monopotassium phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied by watering; for bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, nandina, golden bullet tree, rich seed, firethorn, and winter coral, etc. that are mainly fruit-viewing, a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied by watering; for Aglaia odorata, white orchid, pearl orchid, and jasmine, etc., 1 to 2 thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be topdressed in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.

3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc. can continue to be placed over the surface of the potting soil, and attention should be paid even more to shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai. For some shade-loving foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon on sunny days. The shade nets set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

4. Pruning. In mid to late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, plum yew, trident maple, banyan tree, Fukien tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, and Chinese fringe tree, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new tying position can be changed for further binding and fixing, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious harm to the plant. For ordinary potted flowering trees and shrubs, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, flowering quince, and hall crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Handbook (November Edition)

Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn between autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to see snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, the maintenance of flowers and trees should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic sheds, effectively do a good job of cold protection and freeze protection. The flower care management this month mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy, clivia, asparagus fern, and hosta, etc.

Flowering tree and shrub species that can be sown as collected in November include: snowball, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor, pencil cedar, podocarpus, Buddhist pine, soapberry, rich seed (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, photinia, and photinia, etc.

2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulch must be added. The main flowering tree and shrub species for heat preservation and cold protection are: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink, and other varieties), Chinese rose (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth, and other easy-to-root varieties), and flowering quince, etc.

Flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, flowering quince, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, and snow-in-summer, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by dense cuttings in greenhouses or plastic sheds in November include: boxwood, Korean boxwood, large-leaf euonymus, silver-edged euonymus, clearweed, golden-edged privet, gardenia, St. John's wort, Hypericum beanii, mahonia, and golden-edged snow-in-summer, etc. If managed properly, they can grow complete root systems by spring of the following year and can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, bamboo-node begonia, begonia, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, hibiscus, fuchsia, jade tree, purslane tree, red-backed excoecaria, golden shrimp plant, and shrimp plant, etc. can also be propagated by cuttings, and can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple and feather maple indoors; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union is buried in the soil to overwinter); using thick strong branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion, and using branches of superior Chinese rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior Chinese rose varieties.

4. Layering. The main flowering tree and shrub species that can be propagated by ground layering in November are: flowering quince, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, weigela, osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, Calocedrus, banana shrub, snowball, snowball, and snowflake, etc.

5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: flowering quince, snowball, snowflake, red-flowered spirea, Edgeworthia, St. John's wort, Hypericum beanii, mahonia, butterfly bush, tree peony, broom, winter jasmine, forsythia, jasmine orange, jasmine, pearl orchid, bamboo, and Bambusa, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided, and planted out.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: white bletilla, sword-leaved cymbidium, spring orchid, cymbidium, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliad, large-leaf lilyturf, lily turf, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen, cast-iron plant, and air plant, etc.

1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, and maple-leaf hibiscus, etc.

Flowering tree and shrub species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress, Japanese false cypress, Japanese cypress, silk tree, sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, pea tree, and snowball. Flowering tree and shrub species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor, pencil cedar, soapberry, wolfberry, Chinese yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, photinia, photinia, and Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, and ornamental kale, etc.

Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, and crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately pruned back or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball taken (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), only then can survival be ensured; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches cut back, with a good soil ball taken and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or bound with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, flowering quince, and hall crabapple, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic sheds to force flowering, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, and pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic sheds to prompt them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic sheds, or rooms, the amount of watering in November should be based on keeping the potting soil moist as the specific standard, and it should not be too wet. If the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf spraying should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, and cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter coral, and rich seed, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed frequently to facilitate the expansion and growth of flower buds and to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic sheds, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed frequently to keep the leaf color green and glossy at all times. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For relatively cold-sensitive foliage plants, such as arrowhead vine, maranta, dieffenbachia, green emperor, croton, and silver queen, etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by excessively low water temperature and thereby affect their safe overwintering.

2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, daphne, cineraria, cyclamen, flowering quince, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliad, crab claw orchid, and colorful bromeliad, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be topdressed. Using 0.2% monopotassium phosphate fertilizer liquid can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary greenhouses, topdressing should be stopped to facilitate their normal dormancy and overwintering. For most garden-planted flowers and trees, such as Malus species (crabapple), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Manglietia fordiana (Ford's manglietia), Michelia chapensis (Champac michelia), Michelia yunnanensis (Yunnan michelia), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Michelia foveolata (golden-leaved michelia), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese buckeye), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Spiraea species (spirea), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Vitis vinifera (grape), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Paeonia lactiflora (herbaceous peony), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried as application, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, to build a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Malus species (crabapple), etc., to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune garden-planted or potted Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, besides retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems with 30 cm to 50 cm of the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned garden-planted Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), heavily cut back the current-year branches, besides retaining 20 cm to 30 cm of the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to facilitate the production of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flower beds, along sidewalks, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Camellia japonica (camellia), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Malus species (crabapple), etc., cut off all misshapen branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately cut back the water sprouts protruding beyond the crown. In addition, in November, large Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm) can have their fiber stripped and the trunks cleaned, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very cold-sensitive, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Rhododendron species (azalea), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Michelia alba (white michelia), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Diospyros armata (Chinese persimmon), Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Citrus limon (lemon), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Phoenix canariensis (Canary Island date palm), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), etc., they can be placed in a plastic greenhouse, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (deeply lobed philodendron), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green mosaic plant), Philodendron 'Imperial Green' (green giant), Philodendron 'Imperial Red' (green emperor), Spathiphyllum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen), Plumeria rubra (frangipani), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya (cattleya orchid), Cymbidium (cymbidium orchid), etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature no lower than 10°C, or protected through winter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Malus species (crabapple), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Calocedrus formosana (Taiwan incense cedar), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), etc., they can be directly buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, a film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, glasshouses, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, causing flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop. In addition, no toxic gases such as coal gas should enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop. During ventilation, care must also be taken never to let the plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf diseases, such as Vitis vinifera (grape), Malus species (crabapple), Rosa rugosa (rugosa rose), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica (camellia), Chrysanthemum morifolium (chrysanthemum), etc., collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style tree-stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead trunk and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the tree stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees placed in glasshouses or greenhouses (they may occur on Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), orchids, Camellia japonica (camellia), Clivia miniata (clivia), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant)), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba (white michelia), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), and Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose)), spray tobacco water for control.

For Rhododendron hybridum (Western azalea) placed in greenhouses, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main bonsai plant species suitable for shaping are: Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Calocedrus formosana (Taiwan incense cedar), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Chamaecyparis pisifera (sawara cypress), Sabina procumbens (creeping juniper), Euonymus oxyphyllus (winged spindle), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Corylopsis sinensis (winter hazel), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Buxus sempervirens (common boxwood), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple), etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new tree stumps such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Adina rubella (Chinese buttonbush), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), etc., after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch breaking, plant them well on sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches next year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the stump's trunk, roots, and branches, select suitable pots and repot them properly, and pair them with ornamental stones and dotted moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall Prunus mume stumps (plum blossom), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Prunus persica 'Duplex' (ornamental peach), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), etc., can be potted in suitable containers in November, with strengthened water management, and can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and large auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most regions of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree maintenance should focus on three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered glasshouses, greenhouses, and rooms; second, do a good job in pruning and cleaning up open-field flowers and trees and in turning and fertilizing the soil; third, do a good job in preparing for composting organic fertilizer and mixing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in glasshouses in December include: Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (clivia), Begonia tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Rosa chinensis (such as 'Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Ilex species (holly), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Photinia davidsoniae (Davidson's photinia), etc.

    2. Cuttage. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be cut outdoors in December include: Prunus mume (plum blossom) (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, and miniature rose); Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) (heel cutting), Spiraea species (spirea), Buxus species (boxwood), etc. Among them, Prunus mume (plum blossom) and Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum) cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil; Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve warmth and moisture.

In glasshouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be made of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Epiphyllum hybridum (orchid cactus), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Graptopetalum paraguayense (ghost plant), Echeveria glauca (Echeveria), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (kalanchoe), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Begonia cucullata (wax begonia), Begonia maculata (polka dot begonia), Begonia elatior (Elatior begonia), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Lantana camara (lantana), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be propagated of Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus' (golden-hearted/golden-edged euonymus), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), etc. In addition, branches of Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Syringa oblata (early lilac), Vitis vinifera (grape), etc. can also be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in spring next year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent Prunus mume (plum blossom) cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc. sown in the same year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain spacing between plants and rows, bury soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union when watering; cover with plastic film to preserve warmth and moisture, and next spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) cultivars; or use robust branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union; cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and warmth; next spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film, and only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with bagging to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Camellia japonica (camellia), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Viburnum plicatum (Japanese snowball), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves' spiraea), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: Zephyranthes candida (autumn zephyr lily), Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Oxalis corymbosa (pink woodsorrel), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris tectorum (wall iris), Liriope platyphylla (big blue lilyturf), Ophiopogon bodinieri (Bodinier's lilyturf), Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen). When cutting off offset pups from the base of a large variegated pineapple plant, it must be a small plant that has already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the divided pup are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Agave sisalana (sisal), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Pleioblastus fortunei (dwarf whitestripe bamboo), etc.

    1. Seed collection. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into glasshouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens (scarlet sage), Gomphrena globosa (globe amaranth), Tagetes erecta (African marigold), Tagetes patula (French marigold), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Clivia miniata (clivia), etc. Clivia miniata (clivia) seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be harvested in December include: Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Ilex species (holly), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Photinia species (photinia). After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders in December include: Dianthus species (pink), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Viola × wittrockiana (pansy), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Bellis perennis (daisy), etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in greenhouses, such as Bellis perennis (daisy), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Dianthus species (pink), Viola × wittrockiana (pansy), etc., and can be used for street display next spring.

    In December, most deciduous landscaping trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Malus species (crabapple), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese buckeye), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tilia tuan (Tuan linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Prunus persica 'Duplex' (ornamental peach), Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), etc. However, transplanting of evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Rhododendron species (azalea), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), etc. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main leader and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowers and trees that can be potted in December include: Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox stumps (wintersweet), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple). Place them in greenhouses for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, continue placing potted Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), etc. in greenhouses for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In a simple plastic greenhouse with a temperature no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering frost damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Aucuba japonica var. variegata (spotted laurel), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Camellia japonica (camellia), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Pleioblastus fortunei (dwarf whitestripe bamboo), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Michelia alba (white michelia), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Lantana camara (lantana), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus limon (lemon), Chrysalidocarpus lutescens (areca palm), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese hibiscus), Bambusa ventricosa (Buddha belly bamboo), etc., they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse. For species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (caladium), Peperomia species (radiator plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Cymbidium hybridum (large-flowered cymbidium), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya (cattleya orchid), Cymbidium (cymbidium orchid), Zamia furfuracea (cardboard cycad), Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green mosaic plant), Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), Cymbidium hookerianum (Hooker's cymbidium), etc., in a double-layer greenhouse with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the greenhouse with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Malus species (crabapple), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Buxus species (boxwood), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Calocedrus formosana (Taiwan incense cedar), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Adina rubella (Chinese buttonbush), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), etc., when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, they generally will not suffer frost damage; if particularly cold weather occurs, add a plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage or fruit ornamental plants are placed in greenhouses, glasshouses, or in rooms, besides maintaining an indoor temperature suitable for them, attention should also be paid to ventilation and air exchange. Doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. During ventilation, care must also be taken not to let cold drafts directly attack the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in glasshouses, greenhouses, and rooms, the degree of watering should be to keep the potting soil moist. If the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, it can very easily cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate foliar spraying can be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (kalanchoe), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Narcissus poeticus (European narcissus), etc., and fruit ornamentals such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus limon (lemon), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Fortunella japonica (round kumquat), Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to facilitate the enlargement of flower buds and also increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, the potting soil should be kept moist and foliar spraying should also be given, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for relatively less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Spathiphyllum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen), etc., when the room temperature has approached the minimum temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by excessively low water temperature.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, frequently inspect them and give supplementary watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking, and falling off.

    3. Fertilization. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary greenhouses, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most garden-planted landscaping trees and flowers and trees, such as Malus species (crabapple), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Manglietia fordiana (Ford's manglietia), Michelia species (michelia), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese buckeye), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Paeonia lactiflora (herbaceous peony), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), Vitis vinifera (grape), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Spiraea species (spirea), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Philadelphus pekinensis (Peking mock orange), Deutzia scabra (fuzzy deutzia), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Syringa oblata (early lilac), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), Salix babylonica (weeping willow), Cryptomeria fortunei (Chinese cedar), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Cupressaceae species (cypress), Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), Prunus triloba (flowering almond), Prunus japonica (Chinese bush cherry), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), etc., in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond sludge, septic tank residue, etc., to build a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Rhododendron species (azalea), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Clivia miniata (clivia), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Freesia refracta (freesia), etc., continue topdressing with 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote flower bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not finished being pruned in November. Hedge and green wall types include Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Euonymus japonicus (evergreen euonymus), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' (Chinese juniper), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens' (four-season sweet osmanthus), Photinia davidsoniae (Davidson's photinia), etc.; ball types include Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Buxus species (boxwood), Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' (dragon juniper), Juniperus rigida (needle juniper), etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For garden-planted flowers and trees that were not finished being pruned in November, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), etc., carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is completed, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Calocedrus formosana (Taiwan incense cedar), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Malus species (crabapple), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), etc., continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be carried out in combination with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as Vitis vinifera (grape), Malus species (crabapple), Rosa rugosa (rugosa rose), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Camellia japonica (camellia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), etc., collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted Pericallis hybrida (cineraria) and gray mold on Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic sheds that are prone to scale insects, such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Camellia japonica (camellia), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), etc., first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba (white michelia), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), etc., tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowers and trees such as Pittosporum tobira (Japanese pittosporum), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Camellia japonica (camellia), Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Nerium oleander (oleander), Malus species (crabapple), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), etc., various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus (horned wax scale), Ceroplastes japonicus (Japanese wax scale), Ceroplastes rubens (red wax scale), Diaspididae species (armored scales), Unaspis yanonensis (arrowhead scale), Pseudococcidae species (mealybugs), Eriococcidae species (felt scales), etc. At this time, spray and kill with relatively high-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and pesticide damage is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and culture soil preparation, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or water pools, add water, and seal and soak for fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in layers separated by garden soil, ignite and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix and compost stable manure, pond sludge, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil, seal and ferment, and it can be used for next year's seedling topdressing and culture soil preparation.

    7. Preparing culture soil. Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much culture soil as possible, to prepare for next spring's repotting and potting of herbaceous flowers. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. Among these, the garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris. After fully mixing them evenly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil for freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cutting, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for garden plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond sludge, etc. can be applied before turning; do not make beds for the time being. After overwintering and freezing into clods, in early spring next year, dig furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Chamaecyparis obtusa (hinoki cypress), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Calocedrus formosana (Taiwan incense cedar), Chamaecyparis pisifera (sawara cypress), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Juniperus procumbens (Japanese garden juniper), Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku' (Shimpaku juniper), Pinus thunbergii (Japanese black pine), Pinus parviflora (Japanese white pine), Pinus densiflora (Japanese red pine), Adina rubella (Chinese buttonbush), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Euonymus oxyphyllus (winged spindle), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Corylopsis sinensis (winter hazel), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple), Chaenomeles cathayensis (Chinese flowering quince), Buxus sinica (Chinese boxwood), Buxus sempervirens (common boxwood), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Ficus microcarpa (Chinese banyan), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), etc.

For bonsai plants fixed by coiling and shaping with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation time has already been one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying and traction.

For garden-planted Prunus mume stumps (plum blossom), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Malus species (crabapple), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), etc. that have already been shaped, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that next year they can be used for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some landscape bonsai in shallow pots and tree-stump bonsai, careful management must be carried out: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most regions of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves southward, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year appear. This month's flower maintenance is mainly to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in glasshouses, greenhouses, and rooms, followed by tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the land, preparing culture soil, and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in glasshouses in January include: Sinningia speciosa (gloxinia), Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern), Clivia miniata (clivia), Begonia tuberhybrida (tuberous begonia), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), Gerbera jamesonii (Gerbera daisy), etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Rosa chinensis ('Elizabeth'), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Photinia davidsoniae (Davidson's photinia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Ligustrum lucidum (glossy privet), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), etc.

    2. Cuttage. Ornamental plant species suitable for outdoor cutting propagation or cutting propagation with plastic film cover in January include: Prunus mume (plum blossom) (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet) (with heel), Spiraea species (spirea), Buxus species (boxwood), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Salix leucopithecia (silver bud willow), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in glasshouses include: Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Pelargonium hortorum (geranium), Fuchsia hybrida (fuchsia), Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet) (leaf cutting), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Dianthus caryophyllus (carnation), Cyperus alternifolius (umbrella plant), Graptopetalum paraguayense (ghost plant), Portulacaria afra (elephant bush), Crassula arborescens (silver jade plant), Echeveria glauca (Echeveria), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Epiphyllum hybridum (orchid cactus), Pilea cadierei (aluminum plant), Pilea peperomioides (Chinese money plant), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), Begonia elatior (Elatior begonia), Clerodendrum thomsoniae (bleeding heart vine), Schefflera octophylla (octopus tree), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Excoecaria cochinchinensis (Chinese croton), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Epipremnum aureum (pothos), Cordyline fruticosa (ti plant), etc. In addition, branches of Syringa oblata (early lilac), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tamarix chinensis (Chinese tamarisk), Vitis vinifera (grape), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Deutzia scabra (fuzzy deutzia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Platanus acerifolia (London plane), Ficus carica (fig), etc. can also be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent Prunus mume (plum blossom) cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, Prunus davidiana (David's peach), and Prunus persica (peach) can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong region, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft propagation is done for Fortunella japonica (round kumquat), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), etc.; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) cultivars; using the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as the rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose) cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Camellia japonica (camellia), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Weigela florida (old-fashioned weigela), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Viburnum plicatum (Japanese snowball), Viburnum macrocephalum (Chinese snowball), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Spiraea cantoniensis (Reeves' spiraea), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' (red maple), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Ophiopogon japonicus (dwarf lilyturf), Liriope platyphylla (big blue lilyturf), Ophiopogon japonicus 'Variegatus' (variegated lilyturf), Reineckea carnea (pink reineckea), Zephyranthes candida (autumn zephyr lily), Zephyranthes grandiflora (pink zephyr lily), Hosta plantaginea (fragrant plantain lily), Hosta ventricosa (blue plantain lily), Tradescantia spathacea (Moses-in-the-cradle), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium faberi (Faber's cymbidium), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Belamcanda chinensis (blackberry lily), Iris tectorum (wall iris), Chlorophytum species (spider plant), Rohdea japonica (sacred lily), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Kalanchoe daigremontiana (mother of thousands), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Tulbaghia violacea (society garlic), Alpinia zerumbet (shell ginger), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Aloe vera (aloe), etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Hypericum monogynum (golden hypericum), Mahonia fortunei (Chinese mahonia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Spiraea thunbergii (Thunberg's spiraea), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Caragana sinica (Chinese peashrub), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), Jasminum officinale (common jasmine), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Damnacanthus indicus (Indian damnacanthus), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Buxus species (boxwood), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), etc.

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature Asparagus setaceus (asparagus fern) and Clivia miniata (clivia) seeds in the glasshouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry) seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Ilex species (holly), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), etc. can be harvested; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can sowing be carried out.

    In January, frequently inspect seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species (magnolia), Michelia species (michelia), Photinia species (photinia), Ilex species (holly), etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplementary spraying should be given in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and cover with plastic film or rice straw, pine needles, etc. to preserve warmth and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus species (pink), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), Bellis perennis (daisy), etc.; in relatively colder regions, sown seedlings such as Dianthus species (pink), Brassica oleracea var. acephala (ornamental kale), Antirrhinum majus (snapdragon), Viola × wittrockiana (pansy), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), etc. can be potted and first placed in simple plastic greenhouses, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and landscaping trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Cercis chinensis (Chinese redbud), Malus species (crabapple), Ginkgo biloba (ginkgo), Liquidambar formosana (Chinese sweetgum), Acer species (maple), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese buckeye), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Tilia tuan (Tuan linden), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Prunus persica 'Duplex' (ornamental peach), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Spiraea japonica (Japanese spiraea), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), etc. Evergreen tree species, especially Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), etc., this month, except in special circumstances, generally should be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, after transplanting, heavily cut back and strengthen cold protection and watering management after transplanting, and it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in regions south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation and land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Acer palmatum (Japanese maple), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), wild plum, Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), Euonymus oxyphyllus (winged spindle), etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), etc., heavy cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, they should be cultivated by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and covered with straw curtains to protect against freezing.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to the overwintering of potted flowers and bonsai. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for their safe overwintering, either in a glasshouse, or in a greenhouse, or indoors, or buried and planted in open-field soil. In a simple plastic greenhouse with a temperature no lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus (asparagus fern), Asparagus cochinchinensis (Chinese asparagus), Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia), Livistona chinensis (Chinese fan palm), Nephrolepis cordifolia (tuberous sword fern), Rhapis excelsa (lady palm), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel), Michelia figo (banana shrub), Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), Cymbidium (cymbidium orchid), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Acorus calamus (sweet flag), Bambusa multiplex (hedge bamboo), Pleioblastus fortunei (dwarf whitestripe bamboo), etc. In a double-layer plastic greenhouse with a temperature no lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Ficus elastica (rubber plant), Jasminum sambac (jasmine), Chloranthus spicatus (chu-lan), Michelia alba (white michelia), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Diospyros armata (Chinese persimmon), Zantedeschia aethiopica (calla lily), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus limon (lemon), Chrysalidocarpus lutescens (areca palm), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Cymbidium ensifolium (four-season orchid), Cymbidium sinense (Chinese cymbidium), Epiphyllum oxypetalum (night-blooming cereus), Epiphyllum hybridum (orchid cactus), Bambusa vulgaris (giant Buddha belly bamboo), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Lantana camara (lantana), etc. In a double-layer plastic greenhouse or glasshouse with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as Codiaeum variegatum (croton), Caladium bicolor (caladium), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Bromeliaceae species (bromeliads), Peperomia species (radiator plant), Coleus scutellarioides (coleus), Dracaena sanderiana (lucky bamboo), Caryota mitis (fishtail palm), Dracaena fragrans (corn plant), Pachira aquatica (money tree), Fittonia verschaffeltii (nerve plant), Fittonia verschaffeltii (red/green mosaic plant), Philodendron 'Imperial Green' (green giant), Philodendron 'Imperial Red' (green emperor), Spathiphyllum 'Silver Queen' (silver queen), Aglaonema modestum (Chinese evergreen), Cymbidium hybridum (large-flowered cymbidium), Phalaenopsis (moth orchid), Cattleya (cattleya orchid), Oncidium (dancing lady orchid), Vanda (vanda orchid), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant), Zamia furfuracea (cardboard cycad), Adenium obesum (desert rose), Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Cyrtoceras (coral plant), etc. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the greenhouse, and only after the temperature turns warmer may the straw curtains stop being added. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 o'clock in the morning; the fire must not be cut off and the power must not go out, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to the plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Malus species (crabapple), Rhododendron simsii (Indian azalea), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), Buxus species (boxwood), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Acer buergerianum (trident maple), Calocedrus formosana (Taiwan incense cedar), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Sabina chinensis (Chinese juniper), Platycladus orientalis (Chinese arborvitae), Myrica rubra (Chinese bayberry), Ilex cornuta (horned holly), Ilex chinensis (Chinese holly), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), etc., they can be buried together with their pots in the soil; when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur; when particularly cold weather occurs, add a plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in greenhouses, glasshouses, or indoors, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining a suitable air temperature for them, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation and air permeability, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. During ventilation, also try as much as possible to avoid cold drafts directly attacking the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting glasshouses and greenhouses during each southward movement of cold air. If broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time, so as to prevent potted flowers from being frozen. When supplying coal, gas, and oil heating to the glasshouse, also carefully inspect to ensure no leaking gas or smoke enters the glasshouse or greenhouse, so as to prevent smoke damage and other causes from producing flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony) to bloom during the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a glasshouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted Prunus mume (plum blossom), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Malus halliana (Hall's crabapple), Jasminum nudiflorum (winter jasmine), etc. can also be placed in a greenhouse at about 15°C for flower forcing, with an appropriate increase in light duration, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), Freesia refracta (freesia), etc. that were placed in the glasshouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January's watering management for potted flowers, first and most importantly, attention should be paid to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, the water temperature should be kept broadly consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and may even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death of the plants. The watering time should preferably be arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in glasshouses, greenhouses, and rooms, it is appropriate to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but attention should also be paid to giving foliar spraying, always keeping the plant leaves clean. For relatively less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia seguine (dumb cane), Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead plant), Maranta arundinacea (arrowroot), Codiaeum variegatum (croton), etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum that the plant can tolerate, the amount of watering should be especially controlled. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica (camellia), Camellia sasanqua (sasanqua camellia), Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Euphorbia pulcherrima (poinsettia), Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (kalanchoe), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), etc., and fruit ornamentals such as Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' (daidai), Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis (fingered citron), Citrus limon (lemon), Ardisia crenata (coral ardisia), Fortunella margarita (kumquat), Fortunella hindsii (Hong Kong kumquat), Solanum pseudocapsicum (Jerusalem cherry), etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to facilitate the enlargement of flower buds and also increase the bright colors of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote locations from lacking water, and to replenish watering in time for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, frequently inspect them and give supplementary watering in time, especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting; around noon, appropriately spray water on the leaves as well, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilization

For most garden-planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, such as Malus species (crabapple), Magnolia denudata (white magnolia), Magnolia grandiflora (southern magnolia), Magnolia liliiflora (purple magnolia), Magnolia soulangeana (saucer magnolia), Manglietia fordiana (Ford's manglietia), Michelia species (michelia), Acer species (maple), Gardenia jasminoides (gardenia), Aesculus chinensis (Chinese buckeye), Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Tilia tuan (Tuan linden), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Osmanthus fragrans (sweet osmanthus), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Podocarpus macrophyllus (yew podocarpus), Prunus serrulata (cherry blossom), Sapindus mukorossi (soapberry), Albizia julibrissin (silk tree), Koelreuteria paniculata (goldenrain tree), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Schima superba (Chinese guger tree), Machilus species (machilus), Nyssa sinensis (Chinese tupelo), Camptotheca acuminata (happy tree), Paeonia suffruticosa (tree peony), Forsythia viridissima (greenstem forsythia), Buxus species (boxwood), Vitis vinifera (grape), Viburnum odoratissimum (sweet viburnum), Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Hydrangea macrophylla (bigleaf hydrangea), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Prunus japonica (Chinese bush cherry), Prunus triloba (flowering almond), Liriodendron chinense (Chinese tulip tree), Deutzia scabra (fuzzy deutzia), Philadelphus pekinensis (Peking mock orange), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Elaeocarpus sylvestris (woodland elaeocarpus), Salix babylonica 'Aurea' (golden weeping willow), Ulmus pumila var. pendula (weeping Siberian elm), Cryptomeria fortunei (Chinese cedar), Taiwania cryptomerioides (Taiwan cedar), Cedrus deodara (deodar cedar), Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), Sophora japonica var. pendula (weeping pagoda tree), Exochorda racemosa (pearlbush), Hibiscus syriacus (rose of Sharon), Syringa oblata (early lilac), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo), Phyllostachys nigra (black bamboo), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Eriobotrya japonica (loquat), etc., if the fertilization task was not completed in December, then while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, stable manure, pond sludge, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to build a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in glasshouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Rhododendron hybridum (Belgian azalea), Justicia brandegeeana (shrimp plant), Pachystachys lutea (golden shrimp plant), Daphne odora (winter daphne), Pericallis hybrida (cineraria), Primula malacoides (fairy primrose), Cyclamen persicum (cyclamen), Narcissus poeticus (poet's narcissus), Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince), Hyacinthus orientalis (hyacinth), Tulipa gesneriana (tulip), Vriesea (vriesea bromeliad), Clivia miniata (clivia), Strelitzia reginae (bird of paradise), Schlumbergera truncata (crab cactus), etc., continue topdressing with low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to facilitate plant growth and flower bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in greenhouses, because the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped plants, etc. that were not finished being pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs that were not finished being pruned in December, such as Rosa chinensis (Chinese rose), Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle), Rosa banksiae (Lady Banks' rose), Campsis grandiflora (Chinese trumpet creeper), Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria), floribunda rose, Cinnamomum camphora (camphor tree), Platanus orientalis (oriental plane), Triadica sebifera (Chinese tallow tree), Photinia serratifolia (Chinese photinia), Punica granatum (pomegranate), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea' (purple-leaf plum), Chaenomeles sinensis (Chinese quince), Chimonanthus praecox (wintersweet), Prunus mume (plum blossom), Trachycarpus fortunei (windmill palm), Vitis vinifera (grape), etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root systems, to meet the needs of their spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and supplemented by tying, such as Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm), Sageretia thea (Chinese sweet plum), Bougainvillea spectabilis (bougainvillea), Carmona retusa (Fukien tea), Xylosma congestum (Xylosma), Ligustrum quihoui (waxleaf privet), Adina rubella (Chinese buttonbush), Elaeagnus pungens (thorny elaeagnus), Pyracantha fortuneana (firethorn), Serissa japonica (snowbush), Juniperus rigida (needle juniper), etc., continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, to build a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple, plum blossom, elm-leaved plum, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum and the like that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles and similar borers, they can be sawn off, and the sawn trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear away the fallen leaves beneath rose, rugosa rose, grape, crape myrtle and similar plants, gather them up and burn them in a centralized manner; this can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

On the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, photinia and the like, where horned wax scales, tortoise wax scales, red wax scales, cottony cushion scales, armored scales, arrowhead scales, mealybugs, thread scales and similar pests appear, spray with high concentrations of methomyl, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture and the like to kill them; this can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in the greenhouse, and gray mold that readily appears on primrose leaves, use thiophanate-methyl for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing at the same time on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, kumquat and similar plants in the greenhouse, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe away the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in the greenhouse, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

8. Composting fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake and the like into a water tank or water vat to soak and ferment, so as to provide liquid fertilizer for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches, fallen leaves and the like in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon manure and the like with garden soil and pile them for composting and fermentation, to serve as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

9. Plowing and freezing of soil

For nursery land that has not yet been turned over by December, seize the time in early January to plow it; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure and the like into it, and after overwintering and freezing of the soil, in early spring dig furrows and make beds, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf holly, savin, Chinese juniper, snow-in-summer, creeping juniper, Chinese juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Chinese pea tree, winter hazel, winged spindle tree, banyan, wisteria and the like. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse, and moved outdoors again after spring returns and the weather warms, as this helps the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and the like, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and the wiring and training done anew.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; tree-stump bonsai must be prevented from having their pot soil freeze, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate, and it is also necessary to prevent plants grown on small rocks from freezing to death after being chilled; they should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, only then can they be ensured a safe winter.