Analysis of the Timeliness Characteristics of Plant Pests and Diseases

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

When plants suffer from pests and diseases, they all have their own characteristics, and the timeliness of plant diseases is one major characteristic. Accurately understanding these characteristics is very beneficial for treating plant diseases. So what is the timeliness of plant pests and diseases

Rhododendron

Plant disease control should strictly follow the timeliness of the "three times" (application time, onset period, infection period); the targeted nature of the "four accuracies" (accurate method, accurate medication, accurate concentration, accurate dosage); and one continuity (the continuity of the treatment "course"). This is the key to effectively controlling the occurrence, harm, spread and expansion of plant diseases, and is also the most technically demanding measure in plant disease control.

As with the prevention and control of all biological diseases, plant disease control must also prevent "excessive" treatment. At present, in the field of garden plant diseases, this situation is not common, far less obvious than the phenomenon of "excessive" control of garden plant pests. The main problems in garden plant control are still non-treatment, mistreatment, and missed treatment. The behavioral manifestations in production operations are treating without preventing, treating without preventing, neither treating nor preventing, treating at the wrong time, treating inadequately, and treating improperly.

Scientifically Understanding Garden Plant Diseases

China Landscape Network June 18 news: The "restoration" of diseased parts of all infectious diseases and some non-infectious diseases of plants is irreversible. In other words, after the cells, tissues, and organs of any diseased plant's damaged parts are damaged, it is impossible to "restore" them through treatment. The most ideal control effect can only be to inhibit the expansion of diseased tissue and block and prevent the spread and expansion of the disease. The cells, tissues, and organs of the damaged parts can "regenerate" in situ or in a new position, but the original diseased cells, tissues, and organs can no longer "regenerate" as the original body.

The Preemptive Nature of Disease Control

In the field of plant diseases, the essence of "prevention first" is to treat "early" and treat "few (small)" and "treat before disease", with emphasis on "treat before disease". For any disease of any plant, only by truly attaching importance to and implementing "treat before disease" can one truly grasp the initiative in plant disease control. While "pest control" emphasizes treating "weak" and treating "accurately", and is even less about "treating before pests", this is the biggest difference between "disease treatment" and "pest control" in plant protection strategies.

The Complexity of Disease Control

The "four links" of infectious diseases (host, pathogen, disease conditions, infection route) are highly correlated and indispensable. Only when all "four links" are present can plant diseases form and occur. Therefore, the absence or blocking of any one link will make the "occurrence" of the disease difficult to sustain, and the "harm" will also terminate. As far as garden plant protection is concerned, "occurrence" and "harm" have often been confused in the past, and the expressions have not been rigorous enough. In fact, "occurrence" and "harm" are two basic concepts that are both internally connected and somewhat different. The trajectory of "occurrence" is "chain-like", while the trajectory of "harm" is "step-like"; the adverbial reference of "occurrence" is "scope", while the adverbial reference of "harm" is "degree"; the perceptual textual expressions of "occurrence" are "general" (widespread), "local", "sporadic", "individual", while the perceptual textual expressions of "harm" are "severe", "relatively severe", "general", "slight" (whether "occurrence" or "harm", the quantitative expressions of each level must be based on different levels of data indicators). At the ecological, environmental, economic, and landscape levels, the "occurrence" of plant diseases and even the entire range of harmful organisms does not necessarily constitute "harm" (loss), but any level of "harm" degree must be based on "occurrence"; once both the "occurrence" and "harm" of harmful organisms or environmental "stress" reach their extreme, then a "disaster" with "loss" as its intrinsic element is formed, constituting a veritable "natural disaster". However, it must be emphasized that garden plant disease control should be based on "occurrence" for investigation, monitoring, and forecasting, rather than waiting for "harm" to appear. This is also one of the differences between "scientific control" of diseases and pests.

The "three elements" of non-infectious diseases (environment, nature, management, including planting, design, construction, and maintenance) are highly correlated, and each can "exert force" independently. Any one factor can become the dominant cause.

Infectious diseases and non-infectious diseases interact malignantly. The vast majority of "non-infectious diseases" can lead to secondary "infectious diseases" or trigger "weak parasitic pests and diseases". Conversely, already-formed "infectious diseases" can also induce or exacerbate the occurrence of "non-infectious diseases".

The Comprehensive Nature of Disease Control

The "effectiveness" of plant disease control depends to a large extent on the "comprehensive" level of control strategies and measures. Efforts must be made on "packages" and "combination punches". Since plant infection is mostly caused by the superposition of multiple factors, effective control of plant disease occurrence must also pay attention to corresponding multi-measure combinations.

The Timeliness of Disease Control

Scientific Control, Effective Paths

To treat diseases, first treat the "insects". Various viral diseases, mosaic diseases, sooty mold, pine wilt disease, etc., all use certain insects (such as aphids, scale insects, stink bugs, whiteflies, leafhoppers, Japanese pine sawyer beetles, etc.) as vectors of plant infection. Such pests must be eliminated first before diseases can be effectively prevented, treated, and controlled.

To treat diseases, first treat the "soil". The pathogens of various plant diseases such as Fusarium wilt, crown gall, damping-off, seedling blight, root rot, Phytophthora blight, sclerotinia rot, root-knot nematode disease, gray mold, etc., use soil as a hiding place and as a source of infection. Even for non-infectious diseases, many originate from "stress", "pollution", "nutrient deficiency", and "barrenness" of the soil in the plant's habitat. Therefore, the base soil of the plant's habitat must first maintain "nutrition", "permeability", "non-toxicity", suitable temperature and humidity, and sufficient nutritional area (actually volume) to effectively prevent, treat, and control diseases.

To treat diseases, first treat "decline". Examples include various weakly parasitic "host-dominated" rot diseases, bark rot, canker diseases, etc. The pathogens of various host-dominated plant diseases have two characteristics: First, the pathogens exist long-term and universally on the plant body. Regardless of whether the disease "occurs" or causes "harm", the pathogens have long been attached to the plant body, so the pathogens are pre-existing and universal; Second, the development of the pathogen (infection process) acts by "opportunity" and has strong opportunism. This "opportunity" is the weakening of the plant's own growth vigor and suitable habitat conditions, which contributes to the coexistence of "sporadic" and "inevitable" plant diseases. Usually, weak and extremely weak plants appear first, and then various diseases parasitize them, further devastating the plant's growth vigor to a greater extent, thus forming the "harm" of "disease" to plants in a vicious cycle.

To treat diseases, first treat the "seed" (seedling). Various congenital and hereditary plant diseases are all caused by "seed". In many places, garden seedling inspection is lacking, and quarantine is a mere formality, causing seedlings carrying diseases to enter cities and enter soil with diseases. Being accustomed to and turning a blind eye to this situation has become one of the foundational hidden dangers of greening in various places. All allelopathic, suffocating, pre-originating, and carrying plant diseases are caused by "seed". At present, many green space constructions are actually "disease-carrying projects" to varying degrees. Full-process supervision of greening project quality is mostly absent or nominal; "matching tree to site" has become an unconstrained slogan for decoration in many places. In reality, "site" and "tree" are "mismatched", "site" does not consider "tree", and "tree" does not adapt to "site". The high-tolerance attitude of "magnanimity" toward plant diseases during planting, the knowledge blind spots of "not recognizing the true face of Lushan" regarding diseased plants and diseased parts, and the careless, sloppy, and trend-chasing planting process have become another foundational hidden danger of greening in various places, and have also brought endless "trouble" and passivity to later green space maintenance and management.

To treat diseases, first treat "management". Water, medication, fertilizer, pruning, protection, and other management and protection measures are not the only means of preventing and controlling plant diseases, but scientific and reasonable maintenance and management are the ultimate means to control plant disease "occurrence" to the smallest scope and reduce "harm" to the lowest degree.

Therefore, it must be recognized that: traditional plant disease treatment focuses on the "end", which is the "treatment" after symptoms appear, and passive "treatment" after harm occurs, which is actually difficult to truly be effective or has little effect; scientific plant disease control grasps the "source" and "process", is based on "prevention", and is active "control" before or at the beginning of harm formation. When both are put into practice, from concepts to technical measures, although they cannot be separated, they must be distinguished, with clear primary and secondary, and with emphasis, so that in garden plant disease treatment, the "scientific control" emphasized by the "16-character guideline" of garden plant protection (prevention first, scientific control, governance according to law, promoting health) can truly be realized. (Jiang Sandeng: The author is the former chief engineer of the Jinan Municipal Institute of Landscape Science, Shandong)

How to determine the water line when making cypress bonsai?

Below is an article introduced by Flower Bonsai Network about how to determine the water line when making cypress bonsai. It describes in detailthe production methods and precautions of Shimpaku juniper bonsai.

Shimpaku Juniper Properties

Belongs to the Cupressaceae family, an evergreen small tree, produced in China, Japan and other places. It is relatively shade-tolerant (tolerant of sun and shade). Drought-tolerant. Cold-tolerant. Tolerant (of poor soil). Currently, most Shimpaku junipers in Taiwan, China are Japanese tree species, but most of the native Shimpaku juniper tree species are planted in mainland China.

Tree Form Formation

The morphology of tree posture varies. All are naturally formed by external environmental forces.

Exposed roots. Factors producing them include topsoil loss, being pushed over and exposed by soil and rock pressure, and roots being pulled out by wind.
Connected roots. Being struck by animals or natural disasters causing the tree body to topple and lie on the ground, over time transforming into another form of rooting upon landing.
Double trunk or clump trunk. The tree splits from the root into double trunks, allowing nutrients to be transported evenly, forming double trunks or more than double trunk main stems.
Regeneration. After frost damage, lightning strikes, pest damage, gnawing, cutting, another form newly emerging from the life of the undamaged parts of the tree.
Literati. In the classification of Shimpaku juniper, there are three types: tall trees, small trees, and low spreading shrubs. Shimpaku junipers that can conform to literati tree forms mostly come from tall trees and small trees.
Rock cliffs. Growth states extending along rock walls are almost all produced, developing horizontally, and due to uneven weight at growth points, almost all present cascade tree forms.

Shimpaku Juniper Leaves, Branches, Trunk

According to common sense, leaves at the stage of forming branches will face the sun due to sunlight, and in nature, branch momentum will change due to external forces. The trunk is also formed by the continuous transformation of branches.

Natural Ecology of Leaves

There are many differences in leaves. Lines are mostly named and distinguished by local varieties. Leaf nature is divided into gold and silver. Most gold nature is more suitable for Taiwan, China bonsai and climate.

Scale-like cypress leaves (scale-like)
Fir-like leaves (needle-like)
Tips for reverting to scale-like leaves
Sudden growth of scale-like cypress leaves

Cypress leaves - (scale-like) The tip of the leaf is the point with the most photosynthesis. Cypress leaves are the most ornamental in bonsai. However, if tree vigor is unbalanced, such as massive leaf thinning, excessive watering time, insufficient sunlight, soil replacement and root pruning, improper fertilization, all may cause needle leaves within the scales to grow out to self-adjust. Depending on the tree's needs, more or fewer fir leaves grow until the tree vigor is balanced. After balance, the tips of the fir leaves will again grow scale-like leaves.
(Needle leaves that grow out after scale leaves open will not revert to their original scale-like form)

Fir leaves - (needle-like) New leaves, in order to maintain a certain growth rate, have more photosynthetic points, producing more nutrients for cell growth. Each leaf surface tip of fir leaves is the point with the most photosynthesis, many more than cypress leaves.
(In spring, due to higher humidity and the growth period, minimizing fir leaf growth is an important point)

Natural Ecology of Branches

Branches will not stagnate due to external forces. In seeking vitality, they generate resistance to external pressure and continue to stir, eventually forming the future winding and varying trunk.

Branches are produced at branching points on needle leaves. Terminal buds will continue to grow with the period. The older leaves in the front half will naturally be eliminated due to time and sunlight and become lignified. During normal growth, the woody part will also continue to grow, unaffected by leaf loss. On a tree material, one often sees branches aged due to long-term shading or improper management, with only slender unbranched growth and few leaf surfaces, far different in health from surrounding branches. Consider whether to discard and regrow branches, so as not to cause regret after years of production, wasting time and spirit here, because aged branches are thin, soft, drooping, cannot be hardened and fixed, grow slowly and cannot keep up with others. Therefore, appropriate selection must be made beforehand.

Natural Ecology of the Trunk

The expression of trunk flow direction occupies a very high percentage of the whole tree. A trunk without obvious flow lines, even with beautiful branches and leaves, is still a major defect.

The appearance of the trunk can distinguish the planting environment and time. In terms of environment, the bark surface is dark red, rough, with peeling cortex covering the trunk. In hidden places of the rough cortex, aerial roots emerge. The cambium is partly thick and watery. This is tree material cultivated in field cultivation at slightly lower altitudes in hot and warm regions.

The trunk bark surface is purplish red, and the shedding surface is not easy to attach due to dryness. The surface is smooth without aerial roots. Most are cultivated in dry and cold regions or on extremely steep slopes. Too steep slopes make it difficult to collect water and face year-round strong winds, growth speed is slow, and the cambium is relatively thin. This is tree material that can be maintained for many years in Shimpaku juniper bonsai without easily rotting.

The best way to cultivate an old trunk over time is to plant from seedlings in a pot, letting limited space and sparse pruning suppress growth to achieve trunk aging. Of course, during the cultivation period, giving only a little water and nutrients can cultivate an old trunk in a shorter time, but at the same time, attention should be paid to the aging degree of branches. The positions of main branches must be prepared in advance to avoid having no branches to work with after the trunk is formed.

Tree Material Selection

In choosing the trunk, avoid a feeling of top-heavy and bottom-light. The trunk near the pot surface should not be thin and small, while the middle and upper trunk is swollen or excessively twisted and squeezed into a mass. If the massed area can still be carved, the direction of the trunk after twisting can be considered.

When selecting the front of the material, note that there should not be 90-degree bends and vertical or horizontal trunks. More importantly, starting from the pot surface, if there are only bends and twists without front-back-left-right movement, with a single flat-plane curve and no cohesion and depth, presenting only left-right direction bends on a plane, it is relatively rigid.

The trunk gradually becomes slender from emerging from the soil upward. Try not to choose a trunk of the same size like a cannon barrel. The trunk near the crown should lean slightly forward, or have branches with left-right flow as the finishing part of the crown.

Water Line Composition and Production

In nature, the bark portion remaining after Shimpaku juniper is damaged is called the water line. Therefore, when creating bonsai trees, the water line must retain a shortcut to better preserve vitality.

The water line is the retained part of the cambium. The removed retained area is the deadwood part. The water line follows the fiber direction, spiraling upward like a coiled column to connect to the current branches and leaves, keeping the tree alive. After first composing the water line with chalk, use a sharp knife to cut away unnecessary parts. The retained water line size is about 1/3 to 2/3 of the trunk diameter.

When making the water line, first understand the growth degree of the bonsai tree roots. After field cultivation and transplanting, or if the soil has not been changed for many years, first repot into a new pot. It must be at least one year after repotting before working, so that newly grown fine roots are not broken by shaking during carving.

Before composing the water line, first find the surviving cambium. Dried parts will stop transporting due to previous branch cutting, roots no longer supply, and dry up downward. There are also cases caused by uneven growth during cultivation, natural elimination, and pests and diseases. Therefore, first find the surviving cambium, then use the surviving area to conceive the direction of the water line.

The water line can be made as a single one or more than one. For multiple water lines, attention should be paid to the distance of water line transport. A distant water line from root to branches and leaves must have branches with considerable leaf surface in the middle to maintain transport without interruption due to excessive distance. Because shorter water lines transport faster, and overly long water lines are slower, they will be replaced by shorter water lines. Therefore, branches and leaves must be retained in the middle of the water line to minimize the probability of elimination.

The retained water line area must use the front as the main viewing place. The front should not retain two parallel, rigid straight lines; the lower half of the trunk stem retaining only deadwood without water line; or straight unbending water lines. Not entering or exiting, fully exposed on the front. The three-dimensional water line should gradually reduce from the fully exposed water line at the bottom of the front trunk toward the edge, disappearing from the front at the back of the trunk, and from the back gradually revealing again to the full water line, creating a three-dimensional visual effect from near to far to the vanishing point.

For multiple water lines, attention should be paid to the final connection point of the water lines. No matter where the water lines are on the trunk, each winding separately, they must connect at the crown part. Because failure to connect will cause one deadwood body to have two or more trees, with separate water lines supplying separate branches, causing the same tree to have different leaves and uneven strength.
(The water line should avoid being pressed by branches and trunk, causing swelling of the water line, inconsistency between front and rear sections, and even eventually causing transport interruption and death)

When making the water line, sometimes because the trunk fibers themselves are rigid, the water line and deadwood are parallel and do not twist. In order to make a more dynamic water line, it is necessary to retain from the trunk fibers in the horizontal direction. Retained horizontal water lines must not be retained at 90 degrees. They should cross at the angle causing the least damage, and a wider water line must be retained, with enough space for the reorganization time of water line transport. After the resulting water line shrinkage and normal growth, cut away the eliminated part.
(If this situation occurs, work must be done when tree vigor is strong, leaving more leaf surface to force the reorganization time to shorten, and try not to let growth stop)

Water line cultivation is considered complete only after swelling and normal growth. Water line production and deadwood carving can be done at the same time. Branch pruning and shaping actions must not be carried out immediately, as they will affect water line reorganization and stop growth, leading to shrinkage after the water line is reserved. Because the stop of growth will reduce water transport, unnecessary water lines will be eliminated, leaving only enough water lines to transport the amount needed for branches and leaves. When the tree vigor continues to grow, only the uneliminated part of the water line survives, wasting the previously retained water line.

Deadwood Formation

The xylem outside the water line is deadwood. The deep and twisted grooves of the deadwood express the aged appearance of the tree. This beauty that has weathered vicissitudes is also uniquely styled.

Immortal dead wood formed in natural ecology

After plant growth, all retained growth time processes will be recorded in the aged lignified annual rings. Due to natural disasters, environment, diseases, dead branches, etc., the cambium changes course and repairs, continuing to maintain life. During this period, traces of unknown past years will be left.

Trees over time inevitably suffer damage from wind, rain, frost, and snow, or from birds, animals, pests and diseases. The exposed parts of their wounds are further weathered and decayed over many years, becoming dry bones called "deadwood". The trunk part is called deadwood trunk, the branch part is called divine branch, and the deadwood trunk at the top of ancient trees is called divine core.

The shape of annual rings is produced because external environmental forces or different seasonal climates cause the growth speed of the xylem to be fast or slow and changes in shape. During seedling growth, the trunk circumference is small, and the leaf surface is sparse, so fewer nutrients are needed. Therefore, cell tissues are smaller than ordinary mature trees, and wood fiber density is higher. Also, because mixed living cells slowly die and filler cells form, and because peripheral cells surrounding resin can secrete oils, and with the addition of resin or other substances, the color of the heartwood deepens, forming more sediment-filled material at the central origin of the annual ring, hardening it into the so-called (red core).

Red core. Annual rings that grow relatively slowly, forming different shapes with growth direction, with tightly packed wood pores and red xylem deposited with oil over many years.

Red mark. After the seedling escapes the fate of natural elimination, the number of leaves increases, growth speed gradually accelerates, and the color of the oily hard heartwood fades due to shortened deposition time, forming the so-called (red mark).

White mark. After becoming a mature tree, in the vigorous period, a large amount of water transport is needed during the growing season, so large and more numerous vessels are produced, leading to rapid growth. The growth speed makes the wood fibers loose and not tight, and the oil deposition time is almost negligible, forming the so-called (white mark).

Of course, red core does not belong only to the heartwood. During growth, if external forces cause damage and stop growth, rapidly turning into slow growth, causing tissue cells to suddenly become smaller and growth to slow, the length of the slow time and the reduced part of the cambium are all factors determining the size and shape of the (red core). Red core can occur in every part of the tree. Most shapes are sheet-like (red core) because oil, resin and other substances fill it, and the annual rings are tight and not easily permeable to water, allowing preservation for many years. Red, white, and mark are also because the wood is loose and easily decayed.

Carving Production

Deadwood carving should be carried out according to the overall layout of the entire tree. It should not be limited to line expression in small areas. The entire layout should use the movement direction of the whole tree to make a more exaggerated expression.

Trunk Deadwood Carving Production

The white bone deadwood seen on high mountains is red-core wood that remains after weathering, decay, or pest damage and is not easily decayed. Decay occurs because the wood pores are relatively large and loose, easily absorbing water, and cannot withstand humid climates causing rot and pest damage. Insects gnaw away the softer parts of the wood, leaving the strongly scented and oily hard parts.

For understanding wood fiber carving, a screwdriver? iron hammer, and a pair of needle-nose pliers can complete deadwood production. Carve according to the required size, direction, and depth. After drilling, separate the two sides and pull them apart left and right respectively. The pulled path will pass through many fiber fracture surfaces. The farther it is pulled, the more fracture surfaces there are, and the finer the wood fibers become, forming a shape like a two-headed needle.

After finding the front of the tree material, the direction of all water lines and the lines of the deadwood should be viewed from the front to select the most advantageous place for expression. For example, the deadwood part of the whole tree should choose the key part that best expresses dynamics and essence and be carved first, avoiding the carving of surrounding lines affecting important parts and failing to meet the previously conceived standard. After the expression part is completed, repair the surrounding deadwood lines.

Spiral deadwood. In places with inner depressions and outer protrusions, in order to show greater and more powerful spiraling, it is necessary to carve and remove wood fibers at the inner concave area, making the fixed point deeply sunken inward, so that the bending angle is visually more exaggerated and powerful. At the outer protruding area, where the visual outward extension is not prominent enough, carving should be used to reduce the thick wood outward, forming a visual effect of extending outward at the outer edge. Within the same bend, one depression and one pull express three-dimensionality and angle to the maximum.

Flexuous deadwood. With softer line flow, also carve at concave areas. The difference is that the carving points are not limited to the same place deeply sunken. Widen the deeply sunken points into surfaces, such as the concave areas on both sides of an S shape, with the most appropriate shallow carving, leaving the outward protruding places to highlight softer lines, for example, a one-centimeter-wide slender strip of paper twisting in different directions with the left and right hands like (a fairy's colored ribbon dancing).

Straight-line deadwood. Not turning or bending, straight-line deadwood is the most difficult to express and is limited to a certain degree of carving. The cutting point must be filed open to avoid deadwood in the same direction at the same place, which would cause fibers of equal size or connected formation like a washboard. In terms of the front, the first cut is at the lower left, and the second cut must be at the upper right. Depending on the tree form expression, choose one place for deeper carving and the other place in the opposite direction for shallower carving, making the upper and lower cuts one high and one low. Due to different directions of force, fiber direction will vary. For example, if the fiber directions of the upper and lower places both go inward, the fibers from the middle must meet and interlace, and the lower side will enter the fibers of the higher place, so it will not be so rigid.

The outer contour should mainly use the front. The outermost lines on both sides of the trunk are the trunk lines. The trunk gradually reduces from the pot surface upward. Do not, due to deadwood carving, make the trunk line part too deeply cut, causing some visual shrinkage when viewed from the front (like a gourd).

Divine Branch Carving

Divine branch carving will directly affect the wood grain fibers of the trunk, so divine branches should be carved first, depending on where the branches and trunk are most aesthetically pleasing.

In nature, Shimpaku juniper grows in poor environments and will have broken branches due to lightning, pests and diseases, landslides, and strong winds. Therefore, the small outer branches weather and rot quickly and are not easy to retain. Only the thick large branches close to the trunk for many years remain. After the branches die, they will also gradually dry along the trunk, drying all the way to the root.
(Longer divine branches may also be retained if needed for tree form expression)

In the production process, to express natural aging, try not to retain overly long and unbent divine branches. Retain from the curved area. For the length to be retained when carving divine branches, reserve an extra section to prevent the retained length from being too short after carving. Then use diagonal pliers at the reserved outer circumference, at the place with the best line expression, to pull out wood fibers to a slender degree.

For larger branches, note whether the wood fibers cross the trunk, because this will affect the continuity of future trunk carving. Thick, short branches close to the trunk are very laborious to carve and will damage the trunk lines. If there are such branches, use an electric drill tool to hollow out the middle part, leaving fewer fibers at the branch edge for carving. This is also another expression of hollow decay in dead branches.

Shaping and Branch Layout

According to the conditions of the tree stump, choose the most beautiful and appropriate front. For inelegant branches and trunk, use leaf clusters to cover them.

Selection and shaping. For a newly purchased Shimpaku juniper material, find the front that best expresses the dynamics of the trunk, adjust the trunk tilt direction according to the trunk dynamics, then conceive the whole-tree composition after leaf layout, and only then choose whether to retain the branches that should be retained. For example, first find the conceived crown position, then choose branches suitable for the crown requirements, or other branches such as windward branches, downwind branches, and back branches. These branches are the most basic to form a tree form expression.

In terms of requirements for important branches, crown branches and downwind branches are the key branches, because they need to have a coherent movement expression with the trunk lines. Usually the expression of the crown and downwind branches is left bare, and excessive covering by surrounding leaf clusters is also avoided.

The branch emergence point will directly affect the beauty of the whole tree. For example, branches emerging from the front, side, rear side, and back will all affect the force and overall integrity of the branches when viewed.

For tree material before creation, the main flow branches and tributary branches vary in length and cannot form a fan shape. Therefore, pruning must be carried out. The expression methods for the trunk and important branches must all emerge outward from inner angles or lean forward. A bonsai is viewed from the front at the angle of branches and leaves, gathering from outside to inside at the inner angle concave area, expressing a three-dimensional depth visual experience. Crown branches should be at the side or back branches, winding from inside outward. The tip of the branch is the finishing part. After winding, it should be placed at the topmost position according to the needs of tree form expression. For example, for a moyogi trunk expressed from the front as the viewing side, the finishing part should face the front viewing area. For greater dynamic expression, such as wind blowing from the right side, the crown finishing part should be toward the left, so as not to cause inconsistent direction of trunk, branches, and leaves when viewed.

Important Branches for Expressing Dynamic Tree Forms

The winding direction of crown branches depends on the needs of leaf area in the tree form composition. If the right side is windward and the leaf surface at the windward area needs to be greater, then winding from the right side should be the first direction. After winding and finishing, place it on the left side, because the left side is the downwind direction, and the force of the wind creates a pulling force of wind speed, causing branches and leaves to scatter and thin.

Downwind branches express the dynamic feeling of wind speed pulling force. Branches are more exposed than on the windward side. At the branch emergence point, avoid front emergence, because the cohesive force near the front is weak, the three-dimensional expression of depth is insufficient, and the extension space is not enough. When viewed, it is like being cut off in the middle during normal growth, causing the flow line to break and become inconsistent. A front branch sharply bending from the front to the side, at the protruding place of the growth point, lacks cohesion and a three-dimensional viewing sense. Branches emerging from the side and rear side can better express the three-dimensional visual effect from inside to outside. Starting from the branch emergence point, the branch momentum winds from the lower coil and moves slightly forward. At the outer periphery of the branch, there must not be too much winding, only then can the pulling feeling of wind speed be expressed.

Windward branches express the wind coming head-on. Branches that have been squeezed and bent year-round appear relatively short and small on the windward side, and branch growth is relatively dense. Therefore, the expression of branches exposed to the outside is exactly opposite to downwind branches. Starting from the branch growth point, they bend straight down, expressing the force of strong wind. The branches grow thick and short, with branches and leaves clinging to the trunk. The middle and rear sections of the branches are not easy to survive because the tree tail attracts wind. Therefore, windward branches are mostly expressed in the front half of the branch. The outer shape of the whole tree is mostly higher on the windward side.

Back branches express three-dimensional depth. Because the emergence point is at the rear, when viewed from the front, the branch momentum revealed by back branches should avoid branches parallel to the trunk or at 90-degree horizontal. Because it is another important viewing branch in the whole tree, the placement of branches occupies a very important position for the beauty of the whole tree, especially that they must not cross and grow with front and rear branches.

Adjustment of Branch Momentum

The size of the branch will cause different degrees of bending. Without destroying the cambium, the desired branch momentum often cannot be obtained by bending. It is impossible to bend at a fixed point without destroying the cambium. The bending fixed point should be enlarged to share the pressure evenly. Try using the toughness of Shimpaku juniper wood fibers, slowly rotating and bending like wringing a towel, dispersing the points that share the force, minimizing damage to the cambium.

For places where branches express more twisting arcs, they should be expressed in the front half after the branch emerges from the trunk, gradually reducing the arc. For branches close to the outer leaf clusters, try not to have too many bends, because the vitality of the whole tree is at the tips of the branches. Excessive bending will damage branch and leaf growth and affect the whole tree vigor. It should not be twisted excessively; slight bending is acceptable.

Fixing Branch Positions After Formation

In the branch cultivation stage, preparation for branch fixing must begin. After new branches grow from the trunk, retain necessary branches for cultivation. When new branches can have their shape changed, first fix their shape once. After letting them grow until the branch size reaches standard, cut the length that should be retained, allowing the cut surface, because water cannot gather and natural air drying and weathering occur, after time passes, the outer edge of the branch survives as cambium, and the inner wood hardens. Thus thick branches can be fixed without wiring. The second to third generation branches are the same. Small branches are different. Small branches connect to leaf clusters, are too small to bear the weight of the leaf cluster, and are not easy to fix. They must first be grown thick, then cut close to the previous generation branch where leaves remain, retaining a small section, and allowing it to grow again to achieve fixation. This method can be done once every long period, and in other years mainly leaf thinning is used.

Leaf Thinning Management

New tree stumps must have leaves thinned during creation so that the leaves fully achieve photosynthesis. Moreover, when wiring and arranging leaves, it is convenient for them to form cluster shapes. After creation, the leaf clusters will not feel messy, and the leaves will face the light and reduce pests and diseases.

In the first material styling, preserving the foliage is very important. To avoid heavy thinning of the leaves and allow the tree to keep growing, most of the new tree's leaves have terminal buds and do not form leaf clusters; instead they grow thin and elongated. After selecting branches, keep the necessary branches and foliage, with the foliage centered on one prominently elongated terminal-bud branch. Since there are long, thin leaves above, below, left and right, choose the sun-facing and healthy leaves, pluck out the downward-growing leaves, and then wrap the wire.

After pruning, the terminal buds must first be preserved so the tree can continue growing. Pruning injures the cambium in many places, and if the terminal buds of the leaves are then suppressed, growth will stall even more, and the tree's vigor will weaken as a result. You should wait until the tree's vigor has recovered, when you can see the terminal buds begin to grow; the buds on the branches will also gradually turn toward the sun and grow more densely, and the leaf area will increase. At this point, suppressing the terminal buds will preserve more leaf area without affecting the tree's vigor, and the leaves on the branches will also grow quickly.

Thinning and tidying the foliage after the tree is finished: with Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), this can be done in all four seasons. To tidy, suppress and thin the foliage, you must observe the tree's growth and do different jobs accordingly. For instance, suppressing the terminal buds should be staggered from the timing of leaf thinning, so as not to drastically reduce the leaf surface and cause the growth of needle-like foliage. The method of thinning is to keep the sun-facing, healthy leaves and thin out the leaves underneath that have lost most of their photosynthesis, because thinning leaves with less photosynthetic activity has very little effect on the tree's vigor. If you thin out strong growth and too much leaf surface, the tree's vigor may become unbalanced and needle-like foliage may grow (except for branch replacement and pruning after free-range growing).

Wiring

The greatest function of aluminum wire in styling is adjustment and fixation.

To fix the branches after shaping so the tree does not become messy, when wiring you should try to use as little wire as possible to achieve the greatest effect. Move the areas with more wire toward the thick inner branches, and reduce the amount of aluminum wire on the outer branches as much as possible, because in addition to the visual appearance during the wiring period, too much wire will cover many growing points and reduce the number of leaf buds, especially near the outer leaf clusters (our workshop will teach this with illustrations).

The flow direction produced by harsh conditions

The composition planned in advance before styling, including tree shape, flow direction and spatial expression. Distant viewing and close viewing present different visual focal lengths, far and near. The direction of the wind determines whether the tree shape after styling looks natural or stiff.

A wind-swept shape looks even more wild and free.

Flow direction is the tree shape jointly expressed by the lines of the trunk and the leaf clusters. How to fuse the expression of the trunk with that of the branches and foliage into one is a required lesson. Most trees use large-curving bends as material to imitate; since it is a large-curving, twisted posture, one can imagine that there is not much room to imagine this tree growing securely. From the degree of twisting it is not hard to imagine how harsh the growing environment and space must have been. Therefore, in styling one should not drape a garment that has nothing to do with it over the twisted trunk. For example, if the crown is round and upright like a ball approaching a semicircle, there is no harsh condition to speak of, yet the branches and foliage are lush, and the branches and foliage on both sides of the tree are equal in amount with no trace of the aged, helpless growing environment shown by the trunk.

The forces of nature change the tree's form and ecology

After choosing the flow direction, the layout determines the overall harmony and center of gravity of the tree after styling. In styling, the tree's height, width and depth must first be assessed before you can handle it with ease. As mentioned earlier, windward and leeward.

The windward side, because it bears the brunt of strong winds, has branches and foliage pressed close to the trunk; the branch tips, unable to withstand the ravages of strong wind, die back. Therefore the foliage height on the windward side is mostly higher than
the leeward side, while on the leeward side, because of the wind's pulling force, the branches and foliage instead spread apart, growing long and low and shaded.
(The crown and the windward area are the centers that stabilize the tree's posture, each with its own stabilizing role. The lower, shaded leeward area is the stage that can express the most in the whole tree, and is also where the tree's posture is more active.)

The balance and center of gravity of the whole tree

Find the center of gravity of the trunk and the branches and foliage in the composition. If styling requires tilting the trunk, the placement of the highest point of the crown can keep the trunk from feeling like it is toppling or unstable, and can steady the highest point of the whole tree. For example, if the center position is shifted a little toward the direction of the tilt, the whole tree will feel like it is tipping forward; if it is shifted too far back, the trunk and crown will be uncoordinated and feel as if the head is being held back. Therefore you must find the center point that best balances the whole tree.

The center point between leaves

After composing the tree's width and height, place the branches and foliage by drawing a vertical line through the center of the crown as the center point. The leaf surfaces on both sides should be roughly equal in amount. Tidy the branches and foliage on the windward side more tightly, and give the leeward side an exaggerated space, wider and sparser. With equal amounts of foliage in unequal areas, after placement the windward area is small and the leeward area is large; balancing with the crown as the center, balance can still be achieved (this method is for study and reference).

Spatial layout of the positions of leaves, branches and trunk

In nature, Chinese juniper develops spaces after leaf drop due to insufficient sunlight. Styled material should avoid concealing beautiful branches, trunk and deadwood (shari), and make space for them; a tree styled with space can better express a three-dimensional beauty.

Spaces in nature form because of dead branches, insufficient sunlight, gravity, and snow and wind attack. Dead branches: spaces made when a branch dies during growth from external forces or damage by pests and disease. Insufficient sunlight: spaces made by leaf drop and dieback when a plant grows too vigorously and its branches and foliage become densely packed, so the interior cannot photosynthesize. Gravity: branches that have grown for many years with a broad leaf area droop downward under their weight, and the space left above after drooping. Snow and wind attack: the wind's pulling force splits branches of differing lengths, forming spatial variation between branches; snow accumulates on the leaf surface, and larger or smaller branches unable to bear the weight of the snow are eliminated or droop.

Spaces created by elimination or other factors can express a deeper three-dimensional depth. The space opened up lets you see straight through to the previously concealed unknown zone. Space lets you observe the tree's deeper, more distant growing environment, not limited to the range viewable from the front; you can see through the whole tree's front-to-back dynamics in close view. Of course, within a larger space you can also create another smaller space to see through to an even deeper layer.

If you can adjust the tree's direction of movement, then it is not only the spatial parts that can express three-dimensional perspective. For example, during styling, change the original 90° wind direction source to a 45° angle from the rear, and then the branches and foliage formerly at the back can be revealed to the front for viewing, and you can observe the expression of three-dimensional depth in the densely packed branches and foliage (changing the wind direction means only turning the branches and foliage, not moving the whole tree together with the trunk). In the expression of the front space, it is relatively simple: remove the unattractive parts and open up the more expressive places, following the edge line of the trunk to reveal the main trunk lines from bottom to top.

Our way of expressing shari and live veins

Of course we also grew gradually through failure. Once familiar with the principles of tree growth, these shari trunks' live veins will be as healthy as a lively dragon or tiger.

All of the above is the written teaching material of our workshop's Chinese juniper practical class. Friends interested in joining the Chinese juniper practical class course, please read this material carefully in advance, absorb and understand as much as possible, and read through all the teaching basics on this site. Our Chinese juniper practical course focuses on teaching hands-on carving techniques. Of all the techniques you can learn from contact with bonsai, Chinese juniper offers the most, and is the most challenging and lively. Once you can master the techniques of Chinese juniper, entering other tree species will not be difficult. We only teach...............Chinese juniper.

Chinese juniper with actual life

This kind of artwork, Chinese juniper, differs from ordinary wood carving or stone carving; the biggest difference is that Chinese juniper still has actual life. I remember the first time in my life I happily finished a small Chinese juniper piece, admired it all night and marveled that I was originally so artistically gifted. But before many days passed, all parts of the tree began to turn yellow and dry up......

After gradually becoming more and more familiar with Chinese juniper, I then began making medium-sized pieces. This time I also added shari carving and live vein preservation, and once again marveled at my own artistic gift. But before many days passed, the Chinese juniper's live veins began to shrink. Although it did not die, the surviving live veins in the end were completely unlike what we had originally expected, and once a live vein shrinks and is eliminated, it will never grow back........

After accumulating more experience, I discovered that Chinese juniper still has all kinds of problems, big and small: carving and wiring, arranging and tidying the appearance of branches and foliage. Making it finished and good-looking right away is not too difficult, but how long can it stay good-looking and preserved??

When we tidy trees for growers, what we consider are commercial issues. We will try to let customers directly see the bonsai's ultimate potential. Simply tidying the tree shape will not affect the tree's vigor, but if it involves quick styling, then the bonsai will hold quite a few variables in the future. It still needs to be paired with careful, correct care after the customer buys it home, so that the bonsai does not undergo excessive changes in appearance. Therefore you may feel that bonsai prices on the market vary enormously: finished bonsai that have already grown stable cost much more than new pieces. Here we stand from the position of tree lovers and talk about what many years of testing and observation have shown to be the points needing attention and improvement in the process of styling Chinese juniper!

The shortcomings of quick styling

When first styling bonsai, material was often sent over by tree dealers, and we finished the styling and delivered within a short time. In turn we also took on some customers, and indirectly did regular maintenance of customers' bonsai collections. Thus we had the chance to observe what conditions the bonsai we styled would eventually encounter, and what was most common during this period was the shrinking of live veins.

Because of time constraints, the whole process of styling a bonsai was only a few short days, so we could only work immediately. Simply put, that meant thinning excess foliage, wiring, and then tidying the tree into a beautiful outward shape. Although commercial behavior is the main force driving trends, it often also affects artistic perfection. During this period of considerable work, sometimes we knew the tree's condition was poor but still gritted our teeth and went on.

Let us start by discussing the growth principles of cypress. In quick styling, after thinning the foliage, since the roots are not damaged, the roots' excessive supply afterward will not cause any problem. But the Chinese juniper's live veins inherently have a self-eliminating trait. The live vein parts we decided to keep for the sake of appearance, unless the appearance is already very obvious, make it hard to judge which part of the live vein is at the aging stage about to be eliminated by the tree itself. Because during styling we removed part of the live veins and thinned quite a few leaves, afterward the cypress's interior must necessarily reorganize its transport routes, and the tree's live veins inherently have the instinct to take straight-line shortcuts. Therefore after the live vein reorganization is complete, its edges will form some extra areas unnecessary for transport, which are then gradually eliminated by nature again. Thus we see the originally expected beautiful live veins, unable to control their shape, shrink inward; originally two inches were kept, and in the end only one and a half inches remain. The originally beautiful lines have completely changed appearance.

Balancing between art and commerce is sometimes a dilemma. Even today we still encounter requests for quick styling, and can only rely on experience to judge and calculate, controlling it so that it does not change too drastically later.

Techniques for controlling live vein preservation

The technique for controlling live veins is actually very simple: just change your thinking and the order of styling.

After constructing the whole styling plan, do not thin the foliage (see note). Instead, first cut away the live vein parts you expect not to keep, so that the whole live vein system begins reorganizing first. What differs here from the quick method is that the tree's branches, foliage and roots are all unreduced, and its internal scale of supply and demand remains the same as before. During this reorganization, the tree's entire transport volume must all pass through the preserved live vein parts. Since during this period the live vein area is already slightly insufficient, there is naturally even less excess for the tree to eliminate. After about 2-6 months you can see the live veins become quite plump, and even the live vein parts that were originally going to be eliminated will thereby be revitalized and strengthened.

When reorganization is complete and the live veins are quite strong, then thin the foliage and style. After styling, although thinning the foliage will again reduce the live veins' transport volume, strong young live veins will only age slowly and evenly, and will not shrink.

Therefore, correct Chinese juniper styling requires at least several months of waiting time. Some bonsai of higher value and greater styling scope require several years, constantly observing the tree's condition and carrying out various modifications at the right time!

Note: "do not thin the foliage" here also includes not wiring. When Chinese juniper is wired or its branch direction adjusted, the cambium is injured, causing a short period of growth pause. If growth is delayed, the effect of strengthening the live veins will not be achieved.

The overall tree vigor determines the growth vitality of branches and foliage

Speaking of the principles of vigor control, we overcame the problem of live vein shrinkage. After briefly starting to feel sorry for ourselves again for a while, we noticed that problems came right on its heels. How come a bonsai not long after styling, after being admired for a few days, was found to be more and more lifeless? It just felt indescribably strange. All the branches and foliage gradually began to droop, looking utterly listless. It was truly baffling. We thought to blame it on the relatively insufficient sunlight in northern Taiwan, and that if so, one might as well not grow Chinese juniper at all if living in the north!

In the end of course we figured out the reason. Let us approach it from the perspective of the tree's life........

Can branches and foliage not be fixed without wiring?

Wanting to pursue perfection is asking for trouble. We always see cypress bonsai covered all over with copper wire, and even many viewers begin comparing how differently each person wraps the copper wire. Perhaps one day you will remove the copper wire from a cypress bonsai and suddenly be shocked that the whole bonsai's shape has seriously changed. But after all, cypress bonsai are loved by enthusiasts precisely for their ever-changing plasticity, so maybe just make do with it! But......if there were no copper wire, would beautiful cypress bonsai not exist? Bonsai have existed for a very long time. In ancient China, where would so much copper wire have come from? Hanging bricks, tying ropes, inserting bamboo chopsticks: what ancient Chinese bonsai enthusiasts played with were bonsai without copper wire wrapped on them! Including many of today's bonsai seniors who pursue an even more perfect realm, no copper wire can be seen on their cypresses either.

(Copper wire is simply a name for it, because its appearance looks like copper wire. In fact it is a metal wire specially made for the bonsai world, whose surface appears to contain a protective layer. Real copper wire oxidizes extremely easily and looks unclean, and in sulfur hot spring areas it will even chemically react with sulfur in the air, producing chemical substances of a different color that damage the tree's appearance, whereas metal wire specially made for bonsai has no such problem near the sea or in sulfur areas.)

Cypress from high altitude

Cypress's native habitat is mostly high-altitude ice and snow country, while pine's native habitat is mostly poor rocky soil. In their long evolutionary process of survival, because of the hardships of their growing environment and the difficulty of obtaining sunlight, water and nutrients, they gradually evolved symbiotic, dependent relationships with soil fungi to preserve their channels for obtaining energy, and under harsh growing conditions evolved a growth form very good at conserving nutrients within their own bodies, so as to cope with the frequent harsh gales, drought and ice and snow environments. Having thus competed their way out of nature and occupied the absolute majority of mountain forests, pine and cypress, with their toughness and strong vitality, naturally became the very best subjects for expressing art in bonsai. Even when moved out of their native mountain forests and planted in pots in completely different growing environments, one can still feel the brilliance of life from their intense will to survive. But precisely because of this survival evolution, pine and cypress also show many slow-response phenomena toward environmental change.

The annoying needle-like foliage

Because of the climate, friends in the north, when spring comes your cypress bonsai will grow a strange kind of leaf. Their appearance is just like fir needles, and then slowly normal cypress foliage grows from their tips. This fir-like foliage is really very ugly. When you suddenly happily spend money and send the bonsai to a craftsman for styling, reworking, or just leaf thinning and branch tidying as maintenance, originally thinking that after it comes back you can admire it for a while, but before long this needle-like foliage emerges again. So when exactly can this kind of bonsai let us admire it properly? The works we have made the most are cypress. We have summarized and inferred its cause, and designed some methods to overcome it, and we are still always paying attention and continuously conducting various experiments!
In the northern climate, if needle-like foliage is handled improperly, in severe cases it cannot recover for several years. In the central and southern regions, because there is enough sunlight, if it occasionally occurs it can all turn back to scale-like growth within a short time, and does not constitute much of a problem for enthusiasts.

Causes of needle-like foliage

In normal growth the cypress has scale-like foliage. Among scale-like foliage, only the very tip point has relatively high photosynthetic efficiency; the rest of the scales, besides having a small light-receiving area, also have low photosynthetic efficiency. When the plant for some reason must absorb more sunlight, needle-like foliage will sprout from the scale parts. Besides increasing the light-receiving area, the tip of each needle is also the most efficient photosynthetic point. But later, when the tree's vigor balances again, this needle-like foliage cannot revert to good-looking scale-like foliage, which causes cypress bonsai a lot of trouble.
1. When in the cypress's thick old trunk an old bud point is activated because it is pushed by suddenly excess nutrients inside, and then bursts into bud and starts from nothing to develop a wholly new branch, at first it grows by digesting the originally stored excess nutrients. During this period nutrients are in a state of oversupply, thus forcing the leaves to form the most photosynthetically efficient needle-like foliage to balance quickly. Only when leaf growth approaches the point of supply-demand balance will normal scale-like growth resume at the tips.
2. When nutrients from the cypress's roots suddenly face an unbalanced increase (for example, in the north when winter turns to spring), the excess nutrients transported from the roots also force the cypress to produce needle-like foliage to rapidly increase photosynthetic efficiency. Only when roots and leaves again reach supply-demand balance does growth revert to scale-like foliage.
3. When the cypress's total leaf area is suddenly reduced for various sudden reasons, the nutrients originally transported from the roots also become oversupplied, and needle-like foliage is again forced to appear quickly to digest these excess nutrients, until supply and demand balance again.
4. After the cypress undergoes soil replacement and root pruning or other operations that damage the roots, in order to balance the sudden shortage of nutrients supplied to the leaf surface, it begins rapidly developing new roots. When balance between roots and leaves is reached, the roots' development speed cannot immediately slow down, forming a transitional period in which root vigor exceeds leaf vigor. At this time nutrient supply is suddenly excessive again, and needle-like foliage is produced again.
(In this type of operation that damages the roots, after the operation one actually hopes for needle-like foliage to appear, because as soon as needle-like foliage appears it indicates the roots are already growing properly.)

Prevention of needle-like foliage

Needle-like foliage arises from a sudden oversupply from the roots, and is a kind of rapid growth on the branches and foliage to quickly digest these nutrients. On the root side we can do some control first to lower the roots' absorption capacity, that is, control the amount of watering and do not fertilize.
On the branches and foliage side, increase their capacity to digest nutrients: move the bonsai to a location with full sun, so that its leaf surface has more time to photosynthesize, which can consume much of the nutrients sent up from the roots, and can reduce the urgency for the cypress to grow extra needle-like foliage for photosynthesis.

North-south differences

Cypress bonsai can be called the king of bonsai; its special qualities will not be repeated here. What we want to talk about here is the north-south difference of cypress in Taiwan. In the past, some cypress masters who came north from the south were quite surprised by the fine wiring methods used for Chinese juniper in northern Taiwan. As for the expression of foliage's sun-facing trait, for cypress bonsai in northern Taiwan, because of climate factors, it is somewhat difficult for the foliage to naturally face the sun, so when craftsmen in the north work on cypress bonsai they must rely on copper wire to support the foliage and fix a natural sun-facing leaf posture. In southern Taiwan, however, one only needs to fix the basic branch shape, and then rely on the naturally sufficient sunlight; the foliage will quickly be pulled by the sunlight into the normal sun-facing posture. Yet whether in northern or southern Taiwan, what customers want is immediate good looks.
Another trouble with cypress bonsai comes from the folk saying that cypress needs heavy fertilizer and heavy water. But this saying actually comes from the major agricultural counties of central and southern Taiwan that produce bonsai. If the goal is to accelerate the plant's cultivation and growth, then of course one must pay attention to fertilizing and watering care. But if your cypress is already at the viewable stage, especially if you live in northern Taiwan, then you will find that your originally beautiful cypress bonsai, after deliberate fertilizing and watering, will immediately grow numerous needle-like foliage. This not only disturbs your enjoyment of the cypress bonsai's elegance, but also causes the cypress's needle-like foliage to grow endlessly, and in the end destroys the whole perfect cypress bonsai's tree shape.
(In central and southern Taiwan, because sandy loam mixed soil is mostly used and water evaporates quite quickly, this creates the habit of frequently fertilizing and watering cypress. But in northern Taiwan this will instead produce quite severe needle-like foliage, and cypress from high-altitude areas is originally very well adapted to poor, dry environments.)

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