How to propagate Cattleya orchids? Master these propagation key points
Cattleya orchids enjoy the fine reputation internationally as the "King of Orchids" and "Queen of Orchids," and are one of the flower varieties that many flower enthusiasts greatly love. Nowadays Cattleya orchids are becoming more and more widespread, and more and more people want to propagate Cattleya orchids themselves, so how should Cattleya orchids be propagated
Cattleya orchids enjoy the fine reputation internationally as the "King of Orchids" and "Queen of Orchids," and are one of the flower varieties that many flower enthusiasts greatly love. Nowadays Cattleya orchids are becoming more and more widespread, and more and more people want to propagate Cattleya orchids themselves, so how should Cattleya orchids be propagated?
Cattleya orchid
Cattleya orchid propagation is mostly done by division, tissue culture, or sterile sowing. They like warmth, humidity, and ample light. Because they are epiphytic orchids, the roots need to maintain good aeration, and they are usually potted in fern roots, moss, bark chunks, and the like. During the growing period they need relatively high air humidity, appropriate fertilizing, and ventilation. In winter the nighttime temperature should be kept at around 15°C-18°C, and higher during the day. They bloom 1-2 times a year, and the ornamental flowering period is generally 3-4 weeks. When planting with fern roots and sphagnum moss, be sure to plant firmly and solidly, so that when you lift the plant by hand the roots do not pull out of the pot. The roots should be evenly dispersed throughout the potting material. Finally, use scissors to trim the potting surface material flat, with a slight mound in the middle. If planting with bark chunks or volcanic ash or crushed brick, larger-grained material should be placed in the lower part of the pot to facilitate drainage and aeration. The upper part, especially the potting surface, should have smaller-grained material to help maintain humidity inside the pot.
Cattleya Cattleya hybrida Cattleya illustrated guide: How to grow Cattleya / How to propagate Cattleya
Cattleya profileCattleya Cattleya hybrida
Cattleya cultivation methods and precautions Cattleya introduction
Cattleya is a horticultural hybrid genus and one of the most famous orchids internationally. The pseudobulbs are club-shaped or cylindrical, with 1-3 leaves growing at the top; the leaves are thick and hard, with the midrib sunken; the flowers are single or several, borne at the top of the pseudobulbs, large and beautiful, with bright and rich colors. Native to tropical America, it is the national flower of Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, and other countries. There are more than several thousand varieties. Colors include white, yellow, green, red-purple, and so on. Propagation is by division, tissue culture, or sterile sowing. They like warmth, humidity, and ample light. They are usually potted in fern roots, moss, bark chunks, and the like. During the growing period they need relatively high air humidity, appropriate fertilizing, and ventilation.
The flowers are large, elegant, and magnificent, with delicate and changeable flower colors and rich, fragrant blooms, and they enjoy the fine reputation internationally as the "King of Orchids" and "Queen of Orchids."
Three sepals with pointed tips extending vertically is the greatest distinguishing feature of this flower.
The cultivation history of Cattleya in our country is not long, with large-scale production only after the 1980s. But it enjoys a very high status in the flower market. It is highly favored by the public. It has become one of the important flowers for festive days and for giving to relatives and friends.
Morphological characteristics of Cattleya
This genus is evergreen, with pseudobulbs club-shaped or cylindrical, the pseudobulbs spindle-shaped, and the plant height 25 cm or more; one stem has 2 to 3 leaves, and the leaves are thick and long-ovate. It generally blooms once in autumn, some can bloom twice, and different varieties bloom throughout the four seasons. The flower stalk is 20 cm long, with 5 to 10 flowers, the flowers are large, about 10 cm in diameter, with a special fragrance, and each flower can remain open for a very long time; apart from black and blue, it comes in almost every color, with a gorgeous appearance, and has the title of "King of Orchids."
In cultivation, Cattleya is divided into single-leaf and double-leaf types. Propagation is by division, tissue culture, or sterile sowing. Winter temperature 15-20°C. It blooms 1-2 times a year, and the ornamental flowering period is generally about 3-4 weeks.
Cattleya genus plants are perennial herbaceous plants, belonging to the epiphytic orchids, evergreen year-round. The plant has 1-3 leathery thick leaves, which are tissues for storing water and nutrients.
You can use 6 parts crushed fern roots, 1 part vermiculite, plus charcoal and crushed stone, etc. Transplanting is best done after the dormant period ends.
Ecological habits of Cattleya
It is a perennial herbaceous epiphyte, mostly growing attached to the branches and trunks of large trees. It likes a warm and humid environment; for overwintering temperature, around 15°C at night and 20-25°C during the day; maintaining a large day-night temperature difference is crucial, and it must not be kept at a constant temperature day and night, still less should the night temperature be higher than the day temperature. It requires a semi-shaded environment, and in spring, summer, and autumn 50%-60% of the light should be shaded out.
Cattleya likes a warm and humid environment; in such an environment, the leaves and pseudobulbs are dark green, glossy, and full of vitality. The flower buds can develop smoothly, the flowers bloom fully, and the flower colors are brilliant. New roots and young shoots grow vigorously. If the temperature is around 11°C, the flowering period is delayed, the flowers cannot fully open, and the flowering period is relatively short. If the temperature is around 5°C, the leaves appear yellow and look lifeless, the pseudobulbs develop longitudinal wrinkles, the flower buds cannot grow larger or taller, and the flower sheaths turn brown, with growth severely hindered. If the temperature drops to 1-2°C, the leaves wither and yellow or turn brown and fall off, and the flower buds die. Of course, if the nighttime temperature is higher than 20°C, it often leads to an overly short flowering period. In greenhouse cultivation in the north, special attention should be paid to maintaining a relatively large day-night temperature difference, making the daytime greenhouse temperature 5-10°C higher than at night. The temperature must not be equal day and night, and still less should the nighttime temperature be higher than during the day.
During the spring and autumn growing season, Cattleya requires ample water and relatively high air humidity. It must not be overly dry, otherwise growth is affected. In winter Cattleya almost stops growing.
In greenhouses with poor ventilation, Cattleya should be moved to a shaded outdoor area for a period of time, otherwise it grows poorly and is also prone to rot disease.
Too strong light can cause severe sunburn or growth stagnation and yellowing of leaves. In winter inside the greenhouse, light can be shaded less or not at all. Among orchids, Cattleya belongs to the light-loving types. If light is insufficient, it blooms less, does not bloom, or the flower quality is poor. The leaves become thin and soft, the pseudobulbs are slender, and the growth vigor weakens. In order to bloom well, the light can be a bit stronger, and even slightly yellow leaves will not affect the plant's growth. Growers who cultivate for the purpose of producing flowers often adopt this cultivation method, and the flower yield increases markedly.
Growth pattern
The pseudobulbs of Cattleya are club-shaped or cylindrical, with 1-3 leathery thick leaves, which are tissues for storing water and nutrients. The flowers are single or several, borne at the top of the pseudobulbs, large and beautiful, with bright and rich colors. The sepals are similar to the petals, the lip is 3-lobed, with the base surrounding below the stamens, and the mid-lobe extended and prominent.
The flowers are large, elegant, and magnificent, with delicate and changeable flower colors and rich, fragrant blooms, and they enjoy the fine reputation internationally as the "Queen of Orchids."
Three sepals with pointed tips extending vertically is the greatest distinguishing feature of this flower. Cattleya is a horticultural hybrid genus and one of the most famous orchids internationally. The pseudobulbs are club-shaped or cylindrical, with 1-3 leaves growing at the top; the leaves are thick and hard, and the flowers are single or several, borne at the top of the pseudobulbs, large and beautiful, with bright and rich colors.
Native to tropical America, it is the national flower of Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, and other countries. There are more than several thousand varieties. Colors include white, yellow, green, red-purple, and so on. Propagation is by division or sterile sowing. They like warmth, humidity, and ample light. They are usually potted in fern roots, moss, bark chunks, and the like. During the growing period they need relatively high air humidity, appropriate fertilizing, and ventilation.
Cattleya genus plants are epiphytic orchids, evergreen year-round. The plant has 1-3 leathery thick leaves, which are tissues for storing water and nutrients. The flowers are single or several, borne at the top of the pseudobulbs. The sepals are similar to the petals, the lip is 3-lobed, with the base surrounding below the stamens, and the mid-lobe extended and prominent.
Cattleya has thick stems and leaves and vigorous aerial roots, is drought-tolerant, and will not wither even without watering for a month. It can be cultivated on rooftops, balconies, under eaves, and under large trees, but it requires fresh, circulating air and appropriate shading; a shade net can be used to block out 50% to 60% of the sunlight. It requires a daytime temperature of 25°C to 30°C and a nighttime temperature of 15°C to 20°C, and young seedlings are best overwintered in a greenhouse in winter.
As for humidity, reducing watering during the flowering period can promote flower bud differentiation; after new shoots or flower buds form, more watering is needed, but watering at night should be avoided, and especially when a cold wave strikes, watering must be stopped completely; normally the air humidity should be controlled at 60% to 65%. For growing Cattleya you can use plastic pots or ceramic pots; for the growing medium for mature plants, you can use 6 parts crushed fern roots to 1 part [sphagnum], plus charcoal and crushed stone, etc.
Transplanting is best done after [the dormant period] ends; in winter Cattleya almost stops growing,
In greenhouses with poor ventilation, Cattleya should be moved to a shaded outdoor area for a period of time, otherwise it grows poorly. During the three vigorous growing seasons of spring, summer, and autumn, some fermented solid fertilizer should be placed in different parts of the potting surface, once every 1-2 months, or liquid fertilizer applied once every 1-2 weeks. Young seedlings should be fertilized even more frequently so they can grow quickly. Cattleya likes a semi-shaded environment; in the North China region, shade nets, bamboo blinds, etc. can be used for shading in spring, summer, and autumn, and during this period 50%-60% of the sunlight can be shaded out; too strong light can cause severe sunburn or growth stagnation.
Cultivation techniques for Cattleya
For potting, marl, fern roots, bark chunks, or crushed brick are commonly used as the substrate; in spring and autumn spray more water to maintain relatively high air humidity; in winter during the flower bud development period, high temperature and high humidity are needed, with attention to ventilation and shading; during the growing period, fertilize once every ten days.
Propagation by division, combined with repotting, generally carried out in March. First knock the plant out of the pot, remove the cultivation material, cut off decayed roots and pseudobulbs, and separate the clumps, with each divided clump retaining at least 3 or more pseudobulbs and bearing new shoots. Newly planted plants should be placed in a relatively shaded environment for 10-15 days, and sprayed with water on the leaves daily. The growing medium is best as moss, fern roots, bark chunks, or gravel, and some crushed brick, charcoal chunks, and the like need to be placed at the bottom of the pot. In hot seasons, pay attention to ventilation and aeration. During the growing season, some fermented solid fertilizer should be placed in the pot, or liquid fertilizer applied once every 10-15 days, and ample water and relatively high air humidity should be maintained.
Management
For autumn-winter flowering Cattleya that require short-day conditions, the flowering period can be controlled by shortening or lengthening the light duration, so that they bloom right on time. For temperature-type varieties, the flowering period can be controlled by regulating temperature. To grow Cattleya well, special attention should be paid to the following aspects of management.
1.Temperature
Its optimum growth temperature is 20°C to 30°C from March to October, and 12°C to 24°C from October to March of the following year, with 25°C to 30°C during the day being good and 15°C to 20°C at night being optimal, and a daily temperature difference of 5°C to 10°C being more suitable. In winter the greenhouse temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the plant stops growing and enters a semi-dormant state; below 8°C, generally less cold-tolerant varieties are prone to cold damage, while more cold-tolerant varieties can withstand low temperatures of 5°C. In late autumn and early winter, when the ambient temperature drops below 12°C, it should be moved indoors early. In summer, when the temperature exceeds 35°C, measures such as building a shade frame, spraying water in the environment, and increasing ventilation should be used to create a relatively cool environment for it, so that it can continue to maintain vigorous growth, pass the summer safely, and avoid the occurrence of stem and leaf...
2.Light
It likes a semi-shaded environment with diffused light. If the light is too strong, its leaves and pseudobulbs are prone to yellowing or sunburn, and diseases are induced. If the light is too weak, it will instead cause leggy growth of the leaves and thin leaf texture. Under normal circumstances, in spring, summer, and autumn, a black net can be used to shade 50% to 60% of the light; in winter, no shading is used in the greenhouse, and plants placed indoors can be placed in front of a window, receiving a little direct sunlight.
3.Water
Cattleya not only needs moist growing medium but also requires relatively high air humidity. It is an epiphytic orchid, and its root system is fleshy, so a growing medium with good drainage and aeration should be used to avoid waterlogging and root rot. During the growing season it requires ample water, but it should not be overwatered, especially in winter when humidity is low and light is poor and the plant is in a semi-dormant state; watering must be strictly controlled, otherwise it easily leads to root rot and death. In addition, after the flowers fade Cattleya has a dormant period of about 40 days, during which the growing medium should be kept slightly moist. Generally, in spring, summer, and autumn, water once every 2 to 3 days, and in winter water once a week; when the substrate at the bottom of the pot is slightly moist is the most suitable time to water; watering should soak it thoroughly in one go, and the water quality is best slightly acidic; do not water or spray at night, to prevent moisture from lingering on the leaves and causing disease. Cattleya should generally maintain an air humidity of 60% to 65%, which can be achieved by using a humidifier to humidify 2 to 3 times a day, plus spraying the leaves, creating a moist, suitable growing environment for it.
4.Growing medium
The growing medium for cultivating Cattleya can usually be a mix of fern roots, moss, bark chunks, sphagnum moss, perlite, peat soil, coal cinder, and the like. Generally, vigorously growing plants should have their growing medium changed once every 1 to 2 years, best done in spring when new shoots have just sprouted or after the flowers fade, combined with division for repotting.
5.Fertilizer
A considerable portion of the fertilizer Cattleya needs can be obtained through the mycorrhizae symbiotic with its root system, so it needs relatively little fertilizer; it must not be given manure or urine, nor organic fertilizer that has not been fully decomposed. Otherwise it easily leads to root rot and death of the plant. You can use composted dry cake fertilizer powder or slow-release compound fertilizer granules buried in the growing medium. During the growing season, spray the leaves once every half month with a mixture of 0.1% urea plus 0.1% monopotassium phosphate. When the temperature exceeds 32°C or is below 15°C, stop fertilizing, and during the flowering period and the dormant period after the flowers fade, fertilizing should also be suspended, to avoid fertilizer damage injuring the roots.
Care key points
Cattleya is robust by nature and easy to cultivate, and is one of the most popular orchids; its cultivation methods are often used as a reference for cultivating other orchids. Through hybridization of closely related species, very many hybrids with rich colors and different sizes and shapes have already been produced. Although Cattleya has a great many varieties, the cultivation methods among them do not differ much. Cattleya belongs to the epiphytic orchids (aerial orchids); they have enlarged pseudobulbs for storing water and nutrients, as well as thick, enlarged roots, with the outside of the roots covered by a spongy, water-rich velamen. Therefore Cattleya is very drought-tolerant, and generally you should wait until the roots have dried before watering it. At the same time, when planting, a substrate with particularly good drainage must be used.
Location
It does not necessarily need an orchid shed or greenhouse; it can also be grown on a balcony or rooftop.
Light
Whether cultivated in a greenhouse or in a room, light is the most important influencing factor for the sturdiness and flowering of Cattleya plants, and insufficient sunlight will delay flowering or lower the flowering rate. Cattleya needs relatively more light; except at noon, sunlight can be allowed to shine directly on the plant. The orchid plant can be placed on an east-facing windowsill and a shaded south-facing windowsill, and it can also be grown on a west-facing windowsill. If cultivated in a greenhouse, it should be shaded to 50%-70% of full light. If the light is sufficient, the leaves should be medium green and the pseudobulbs upright. But some varieties do not need too much sunlight, such as the deep vermilion flower types and mini small-flower types that bloom in winter.
Temperature
21-30°C during the day and 15-16°C at night is optimal for growth. Young seedlings are best kept at 18-21°C at night. For Cattleya, especially mature plants, it is best to have a day-night temperature difference of 6-10 degrees. Cattleya can tolerate a high temperature of 35°C; if the humidity is also high at the same time, air circulation and shading should be strengthened.
Watering
Watering should be carried out through two approaches: watering into the pot and humidifying the air. The amount of watering is determined by many factors: pot size, material, temperature, light, and so on. Mature Cattleya should be watered after the growing medium has dried, while young seedlings need the growing medium to maintain relatively continuous moisture. Vigorously growing plants need more water than dormant plants. Note that watering should be stopped when a cold wave strikes.
Humidity
A relative humidity of 50%-80% is most suitable for Cattleya. For greenhouse cultivation it is best to use a humidifier for humidifying; for indoor cultivation you can set the flower pot on a tray covered with gravel, with a small amount of water in the tray, and the plant's roots must not come into contact with the water. Normally, especially under high humidity or low temperature conditions, the air should remain circulating to prevent fungi and bacteria.
Fertilizer
If it is potted, apply a compound fertilizer with a balanced ratio; if it is grown hanging on a tree fern board, apply a compound fertilizer with a high nitrogen ratio (such as N:P:K of 30:10:10). During the plant's vigorous growth period, fertilize at least once every two weeks; if not in that period, fertilize once a month. The concentration is usually 1/2 or 1/4 of the recommended concentration, diluted with water. It is recommended to thoroughly flush the plant once a month with clean water to prevent the accumulation of salts from the fertilizer on the plant.
Repotting
When the plant's rhizome has already grown beyond the edge of the pot or the growing medium in the pot has begun to collapse and drainage is no longer smooth, it should be repotted in time. This usually occurs after two years of cultivation. Repotting is best done in spring after the flowering period, when new roots have not yet grown.
Mature plants usually use larger chunks of growing medium than young seedlings; once a plant has grown at least six mature pseudobulbs, it can be moved together into a larger pot without division. If you want to propagate by division, each pot should contain at least 3-5 pseudobulbs. The pot size should be such that it will not be outgrown within roughly two years.
Propagation methods for Cattleya
In March, when new shoots have just sprouted or after flowering, cut apart the rhizome at the base, with each clump having at least 2-3 pseudobulbs and bearing new shoots; the clumps should not be too small, otherwise the new plants recover slowly and bloom late.
Cattleya propagation is mostly done by division, tissue culture, or sterile sowing. They like warmth, humidity, and ample light. Because they are epiphytic orchids, the roots need to maintain good aeration, and in winter the nighttime temperature should be kept at around 15-18°C, and higher during the day. They bloom 1-2 times a year, and the ornamental flowering period is generally 3-4 weeks. When planting with fern roots and sphagnum moss, be sure to plant firmly and solidly, so that when you lift the plant by hand the roots do not pull out of the pot. The roots should be evenly dispersed throughout the potting material. Finally, use scissors to trim the potting surface material flat, with a slight mound in the middle. If planting with bark chunks or volcanic ash or crushed brick, larger-grained material should be placed in the lower part of the pot to facilitate drainage and aeration. The upper part, especially the potting surface, should have smaller-grained material to help maintain humidity inside the pot.
Propagation is by division, tissue culture, or sterile sowing. They like warmth, humidity, and ample light. Winter temperature 15-18°C. For cultivating Cattleya, sphagnum moss, fern roots, bark chunks, or crushed brick are usually used as potting material. When planting, first fill the bottom of the pot with some larger-grained crushed brick and charcoal chunks, then use a mixed material of two parts fern roots and 1 part sphagnum moss, or use longan bark or oak bark processed into 1 cm diameter pieces, and plant the Cattleya's roots in a porous clay pot. These potting materials must be soaked thoroughly with water before use.
Cattleya variety classification
Such as 'Red Wax', and there are also varieties from hybridization between the Cattleya genus and other closely related genera, such as 'Pink Extremity', 'Beauty', 'Little Wood', 'Golden Billy', 'Heredity', 'Sherley', and also hybrid varieties among Cattleya's closely related genera.
In addition, Cattleya can also be divided into two major categories, single-color flowers and multi-color flowers, according to flower color, and can also be divided into four major categories, large, medium, small, and miniature, according to flower size.
Different cultivated varieties of Cattleya differ considerably in flowering period.
The first is the winter-flowering and early-spring-flowering varieties, with the flowering period mostly between January and March; varieties include 'Big Eyes', 'Tricolor', 'California Miss', 'Lemon Tree', 'Yanggang', 'Red Rose', and so on.
The second is the late-spring-flowering varieties, with the flowering period between April and May; varieties include 'Ruby', 'Daughter', 'Three Suns', 'Big Brother', 'Spearmint', 'Dreams Come True', and so on.
The third is the summer-flowering varieties, with the flowering period between June and August; varieties such as 'Grand Marshal', 'Akifen', 'Helen Brown', 'Chinese Beauty', 'Yellow Bird', and so on.
The fourth is the autumn-winter-flowering varieties, with the flowering period between October and December; varieties such as 'Jin Chaoqun', 'Sapphire', 'Red Bastu', 'Yellow Diamond', 'Green', 'Autumn Elder', 'Autumn Light', 'Star of Brightness', 'Green Virgin', and so on. The fifth is the irregular varieties, whose flowering period is not limited by season, such as 'Victory', 'Golden Butterfly', 'Doll', and so on.
Common varieties
Common Cattleya varieties: Cattleya labiata, Cattleya leopoldii, Cattleya aurantiaca, Cattleya bicolor, and so on, along with a large number of excellent hybrid varieties.
Perennial herb. Pseudobulbs club-shaped, 10-15 cm long, with leaves growing at the top, leathery, light green, flowers large and purple-red. Cultivated varieties are rich in color, including white, yellow, orange-red, deep red, purple-red, and multi-color. Common varieties include the yellow "Xiangshan" and "Sunset", the green "Yulin", the white "Grace", the pink "True Beauty", the red "Fireball", the purple-red "Long River", and the two-colored "Christmas Candy", etc.
The first category is the single-leaf type, in which each pseudobulb has only one large, broad leaf, the pseudobulb is obovate in shape, connected below to a creeping rhizome, the flowers are relatively large, and usually one flower sheath produces 1 to 3 flowers.
Such as "Red Wax", and there are also varieties from hybridization between the Cattleya genus and other closely related genera, such as "Pink Extremity", "Beauty", "Little Wood", "Golden Billy", "Heredity", "Sherley", and also hybrid varieties among Cattleya's closely related genera.
In addition, Cattleya can also be divided into two major categories, single-color flowers and multi-color flowers, according to flower color, and can also be divided into four major categories, large, medium, small, and miniature, according to flower size.
Different cultivated varieties of Cattleya differ considerably in flowering period. The first is the winter-flowering and early-spring-flowering varieties, with the flowering period mostly between January and March; varieties include "Big Eyes", "Tricolor", "California Miss", "Lemon Tree", "Yanggang", "Red Rose", and so on. The second is the late-spring-flowering varieties, with the flowering period between April and May; varieties include "Ruby", "Daughter", "Three Suns", "Big Brother", "Spearmint", "Dreams Come True", and so on. The third is the summer-flowering varieties, with the flowering period between June and September; varieties such as "Grand Marshal", "Akifen", "Helen Brown", "Chinese Beauty", "Yellow Bird", and so on. The fourth is the autumn-winter-flowering varieties, with the flowering period between October and December; varieties such as "Jin Chaoqun", "Sapphire", "Red Bastu", "Yellow Diamond", "Green", "Autumn Elder", "Autumn Light", "Star of Brightness", "Green Virgin", and so on. The fifth is the irregular varieties, whose flowering period is not limited by season, such as "Victory", "Golden Butterfly", "Doll", and so on.
Distribution range of Cattleya
Native to tropical America; the Cattleya genus is native to tropical America, all being epiphytic orchids, often growing attached to trees in forests or on rocks beneath the forest.
Landscape uses of Cattleya
Cattleya's flower shapes and colors are endlessly varied and dazzlingly brilliant, and they often appear at celebrations and banquets, used for flower arrangement viewing. For example, using Cattleya and Phalaenopsis as the main materials, paired with Oncidium, fragrant solomonseal, and asparagus fern in a vase arrangement, it is bright and elegant, with a strong sense of rhythm. If Cattleya is used as the main flower, paired with anthurium, baby's breath, split-leaf philodendron, and bear grass, it appears light and lively. Cattleya is the most beloved epiphytic orchid. The flowers are large and brilliantly colored, the flower appearance is peculiar and beautiful, the flower colors are richly varied, and it is extremely magnificent, with the laudatory title of "Queen of Orchids"; moreover, the flowering period is long, and a single flower can stay open for about 1 month; as a cut flower in water it can be enjoyed for 10-14 days.
Uses and purposes of Cattleya
Cattleya's flower shapes and colors are endlessly varied and dazzlingly brilliant, and they often appear at celebrations and banquets, used for flower arrangement viewing.
For example, using Cattleya and Phalaenopsis as the main materials, paired with Oncidium, fragrant solomonseal, and asparagus fern in a vase arrangement, it is bright and elegant, with a strong sense of rhythm. If Cattleya is used as the main flower, paired with anthurium, baby's breath, split-leaf philodendron, and bear grass, it appears light and lively.
Moreover, the flowering period is long, and a single flower can stay open for about 1 month; as a cut flower in water it can be enjoyed for 10-14 days.
Cattleya, along with Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, and Vanda, are ranked as the four major ornamental orchid groups with the highest ornamental value, and its lovely figure is indispensable in bridal bouquets.
Cattleya as national flower and city flower
It is the national flower of Costa Rica
Cattleya flower-giving etiquette
Use 1-2 cut flowers to make a corsage; the beautiful mini bouquet is lovely. If potted, you can wrap the flower pot with thin decorative paper and tie on an ornament.
According to relevant records, the stems of this plant were used by the British in 1818 as packing material and brought from Brazil to England. The British horticulturist William Cattley cultivated these branches, and they bloomed in 1824. At this time, the botanist Dr. Lindley saw the beautiful flowers of the Cattleya and considered it a new species of orchid, so he used Cattley's name to name the Cattleya genus (Cattleya) to which the Cattleya belongs. The Cattleya genus has more than 60 species. After nearly 200 years of human cultivation and breeding, horticultural varieties are extremely numerous, and it has become an important category of ornamental orchids. Cattleya genus plants are perennial herbaceous plants, belonging to the epiphytic orchids, evergreen year-round. The plant has 1-3 leathery thick leaves, which are tissues for storing water and nutrients.
Cultural background of Cattleya
What is a foreign orchid? What kind of orchid can be called a foreign orchid? According to the explanation in the book "Chinese Orchids and Foreign Orchids" compiled by the famous Chinese orchid expert Mr. Lu Sicong: "Foreign orchids are so called relative to Chinese orchids, originating in the West and favored by Westerners." Chinese orchids here refer to a portion of the terrestrial orchid species in the Orchidaceae genus Cymbidium, such as Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi in the traditional sense, all orchid species with a long cultivation history in our country. Relative to Chinese orchids, the types of foreign orchids are much richer, not only including species of the Cymbidium genus, but more species are separately classified into other genera of the Orchidaceae. Because many species among the foreign orchids are native to the tropics, some people often also call foreign orchids tropical orchids, but this naming is not accurate, because not all foreign orchids are native to the tropics, and these two concepts cannot be equated.
Generally speaking, foreign orchids are divided into terrestrial orchids and epiphytic orchids according to their different growth habits. As the name implies, terrestrial orchids refer to orchids growing in the ground, the same as Chinese orchids; while epiphytic orchids refer to those attached to and growing on other objects, such as orchids growing on large trees; these orchids generally grow in the tropics and have aerial roots.
One of the most famous orchids internationally. The pseudobulbs are club-shaped or cylindrical, with 1-3 leaves growing at the top; the leaves are thick and hard, with the midrib sunken; the flowers are single or several, borne at the top of the pseudobulbs, large and beautiful, with bright and rich colors. The sepals are similar to the petals, the lip is 3-lobed, with the base surrounding below the stamens, and the mid-lobe extended and prominent. The parentage is very complex, and the most important parent is Cattleya labiata, native to tropical America, and the national flower of Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, and other countries. There are more than several thousand varieties. Colors include white, yellow, green, red-purple, and so on.
For Cattleya that has been planted for 2-3 years, the plant gradually grows larger. The original flower pot can no longer contain the crowded plant and root system, and most of the growing material in the pot has decayed, so at this time it should be repotted and divided in time. In the North China region, it is generally more suitable to divide the pot in mid-March when new shoots have just grown out. For plants about to bloom, wait until after they have bloomed before dividing or repotting. When dividing, usually first dig the plant out of the pot, remove the old potting material around the root system, and expose the root system; for overly vigorous plants, part of the roots at the bottom can be cut off. For ordinary plants, cut off the decayed roots and pseudobulbs, and cut apart the larger plant, so that each divided clump has at least 3 pseudobulbs and bears new shoots. If divided too small, it will affect the recovery growth and flowering of the new plants. Plant the sorted new plants in new flower pots. When planting, be sure to make the new shoots face toward the pot rim, and leave room for 2-3 years of growth. Newly planted Cattleya should be placed in a semi-shaded, humid place for 2-3 weeks, with a small amount of water sprayed on the leaves daily, keeping the leaves and pseudobulbs from shrinking. Do not water the roots, and do not fertilize.
Pokemon
Caitlin (カトレア, Caitlin) is one of the Elite Four of the Unova region, using Psychic-type Pokemon. In the fourth generation, she appears as the owner of the Battle Castle. In her lines she mentions, "Chasing everything is the beginning of misfortune; while there are things you cannot do, there are also things you can do. Knowing this is very important - someone used to nag me about this," which may be her growth insight.
Cattleya's flower language
Respect and love, admiration
Cattleya pictures
Key cultivation and management points for Cattleya
China Landscape Web, May 25 news: This article introduces the cultivation key points of Cattleya, including technical key points such as preparation before planting, repotting, watering, fertilizing, and setting up supports.
1. Preparation before planting
To cultivate Cattleya well, you first need a suitable site and excellent environmental conditions; it must not be near industrial and mining areas with air pollution, nor in places with poor ventilation and strong radiant heat amid rows of high-rise buildings. Because Cattleya is an epiphytic orchid, it is not suitable for maintenance placed on muddy ground or concrete ground; it needs a stand or hanging rack to prevent the pot from tipping over, as well as an indoor environment with a winter temperature not lower than 12°C.
Preparation of the potting substrate: Cattleya's pseudobulbs and leaves are thick, and its aerial roots are vigorous, so it usually needs a growing substrate with good drainage and loose, breathable qualities; the more commonly used ones are sphagnum moss, fern roots (commonly the roots of the fern plant Osmunda japonica), bark granules (commonly American redwood bark; in Taiwan Province, China, longan bark is used, and in the mainland, oak bark is used), crushed brick, zeolite, coconut shell, and so on. These potting substrates must be soaked thoroughly with water before use.
Preparation of planting containers: because the ways of cultivating Cattleya include potting and hanging pots. Potting containers must be permeable and breathable, commonly porous clay pots, plastic pots, glazed-edged ceramic pots, wooden frames, metal frames, and so on; hanging pots also need sturdy plastic and wire hooks.
2. Repotting
Generally combined with propagation by division. Take the orchid plant out of the pot, remove the growing substrate adhering to the aerial roots, separate the pseudobulbs, expose the root system, and prune broken roots and decayed roots; if the orchid plant is growing overly vigorously, part of the roots at the bottom can be cut off, with each clump having at least 3 pseudobulbs and bearing new shoots; if divided too small, it will affect the recovery growth and flowering of the new plants. When planting, first fill the bottom of the pot with relatively large-grained charcoal or crushed brick to facilitate drainage, then put in a thin layer of growing substrate, evenly disperse the Cattleya's roots into it, then fill in growing substrate around it and press firmly. Planting should not be too deep, otherwise it affects the orchid plant's flowering. Note that the new shoots must face toward the pot rim, and leave room for 2-3 years of growth. Newly planted Cattleya should be placed in a semi-shaded, humid place for 2-3 weeks, with a small amount of water sprayed on the leaves daily, keeping the leaves and pseudobulbs from shrinking. Do not water the roots, and do not fertilize; when new roots have grown 2-3 cm, watering can begin.
3. Watering
Spring and autumn are the growing seasons for Cattleya, requiring ample water and relatively high air humidity. But watering should wait until the substrate in the pot has dried, and be done in the morning or evening on clear days, slowly, letting the substrate at the bottom of the pot absorb the water thoroughly. If the pot is always too humid or waterlogged, it will cause root disease. When not watering normally, a little water should be sprayed on the orchid plant in the morning, likewise not too much. In summer, during Cattleya's vigorous growth period, water thoroughly once every 2-3 days, and sprinkle water on the ground and spray the leaves to increase air humidity, with watering best done in the evening. In winter Cattleya almost stops growing and is in a dormant state, but the orchid plant's leaves should be sprayed frequently; if the pot is too dry, then choose a clear morning to water a little, so that the growing substrate is moist top and bottom; also note that the water temperature must not be too low, otherwise it will harm the orchid plant and cause water-soaked rot patches. When watering in winter, never leave standing water in the leaf axils or on the leaf surface, otherwise it easily leads to rot of the heart or leaves; after watering, the standing water on the leaf surface and in the leaf axils can be blotted dry with paper.
4. Fertilizing
Although the aerial roots of Cattleya can absorb nitrogen from the air and synthesize nitrogen usable by the orchid plant, reasonable fertilization can make seedlings grow faster, plants more robust, and flowers more vivid. However, improper fertilization, especially excessive fertilization, is harmful rather than beneficial: in mild cases the plant is injured and roots rot, and in severe cases it withers and dies. Therefore, in the process of cultivating Cattleya, mastering the scientific method of fertilization is very necessary.
5. Setting up supports
When Cattleya is produced on a large scale, it is often placed on benches or grown hanging. For bench cultivation, the planting table should have a bottom groove slightly larger than the base of the orchid pot, so that the potted orchid can be placed and fixed securely and is not easy to tip over. When the orchid leaves grow tall and the flower stem is emerging, special supports for tropical orchids need to be inserted, and overly spreading orchid plants should be arranged into an upright form with tying strips, but care must be taken not to break the flower stem. The length of the support is generally preferably equal to the height of the pseudobulb, so that it can both prevent the orchid plant from lodging and create a graceful shape. For Cattleya grown hanging, besides hanging the pot firmly in midair, the pots should not be hung too densely, to prevent the leaves of the plants from colliding in windy conditions and injuring the orchid plants. When the pseudobulb stands upright, tie it to the support at the base of the leaf with tying strips, and bend the tip of the support so that it is close to the sheath leaf, in order to tie the flower stem later.