What are the propagation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum?

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Many people know that Dendrobium thyrsiflorum has relatively high ornamental value, but in fact Dendrobium thyrsiflorum also has certain medicinal value. Dendrobium thyrsiflorum contains a component called coumarins, which has good therapeutic effects on many human diseases. So how is Dendrobium thyrsiflorum artificially propagated?

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

I. Division

Select plants that are growing densely. After flowering, take them out of the pot, remove the old roots, and cut open from the base of the clustered stems. When dividing, minimize damage to the root system, only cut open the connected root-like parts, and separate the roots by hand; there is no need to use a knife. Take the main plant as one group, then further prune the old roots. Place the new shoots near the center of the pot, fill in new substrate and press it firm, and a new plant is formed.

II. Division of shoots

When plants potted for more than 3 years, or the top or base of some Dendrobium phalaenopsis stems, grow small plantlets, shoot-cutting propagation can be carried out. Select small plantlets with 3-4 leaves, 2-3 roots, and roots 4-5 cm long, cut them off from the mother plant, treat the wounds with plant ash or 70% mancozeb, and plant the seedlings into the pot. Be careful to plant them shallowly. After 2 years of cultivation, they generally can bloom and become commercial flowers.

III. Cuttings

Cutting propagation can be carried out together with repotting after flowering and division. Dendrobium orchids mostly have slender, fleshy stems, and the stems have many nodes; buds can grow at the nodes, so they can be propagated by cuttings. Choose intact, relatively plump stems that have not flowered as cuttings, cut the stems into several sections, each with 2-3 nodes, and coat the wounds with plant ash or 70% mancozeb to treat them. Insert the stem sections one by one into a substrate mixed with moss and peat, with half exposed outside, and place them in a semi-shaded, humid place. Do not water for 1 week after insertion, then mist frequently to maintain moisture and provide appropriate shade. After 1-2 months, new shoots grow at the nodes, and 2-3 small roots grow below the new shoots to form new plants. Pot the new plants together with the old stems; after 2-3 years of cultivation they can bloom. The best time for cuttings is from April to August.

Cultivation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum and an introduction to the flower language of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum bears many densely packed flowers, the lip is golden yellow, and it has vigorous vitality, with a flowering period from April to May. Dendrobium thyrsiflorum can be used as cut flowers and for potted display. So how is Dendrobium thyrsiflorum cultivated? And what is its flower language?

I. Cultivation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

1. Pot selection: Dendrobium thyrsiflorum usually uses plastic or ceramic flower pots with many holes on all four walls, with charcoal roots, sphagnum moss, bark chunks, charcoal pieces, etc. as potting materials.

2. Temperature: Newly transplanted tissue-cultured seedlings are very sensitive to water; lack of water causes slow growth, drying out, and a low survival rate. Too much misting, however, causes waterlogging and root rot, and when temperature is high and humidity is great, it easily triggers large-scale outbreaks of soft rot. Within one week after transplanting (before the seedlings have developed new roots), air humidity should be kept at about 90%, and the overwintering temperature should be kept at 8-10°C.

3. Watering: In the early stage of planting, Dendrobium thyrsiflorum should first be placed in a cool place with scattered light, and only some water should be sprayed on the leaf surface; do not water into the pot. After about 10-15 days, once new roots have sprouted, move it under a shade shed for care. During the growing season, watering should alternate between dry and wet, maintaining moderate dry thin cake fertilizer water. During the vigorous growth period, water once a day; during the winter dormant period, water less.

4. Fertilizing: For foliar fertilizer, potassium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, humic acids, etc., as well as imported ternary compound fertilizer and diluted MS medium, can be chosen. Generally one week after transplanting, after the plant has produced new roots, begin spraying one-thousandth potassium nitrate or monopotassium phosphate, once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.

5. Pruning: The crown density of the growing area for Dendrobium is about 60%, so the host trees should often be pruned and trimmed to avoid excessive shading or insufficient crown density. Each year before spring when new growth begins, in combination with harvesting old stems, cut off dead stems within the clump, and remove diseased stems, weak stems, and diseased roots. After 6-8 years of planting, depending on the growth of the clump base, turn the clump and divide it again for propagation.

II. Flower language of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

Flower language of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum: strong by nature, loyal and amiable.

Its ornamental value is extremely high; the flower posture is elegant, exquisite and lovely, the flower color is bright, and the fragrance is aromatic. It is praised as one of the "four great ornamental foreign flowers," and can be used either as cut flowers or for potted display; having several pots at home makes it lively and extraordinary. In addition, the flowers do not wither even 2-3 days after being cut, and its vigorous vitality is admirable. In Western societies, people often present it to the respected elders they love.

The above iscultivation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorumandthe flower language of Dendrobium thyrsiflorumintroduction; we hope it is helpful to everyone. If you want to learn more about Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, continue to follow us.

How to cultivate Dendrobium thyrsiflorum: a detailed explanation of cultivation and propagation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum is a perennial herbaceous plant that prefers cool shade. It belongs to the orchid family, genus Dendrobium. Its flower shape and flower posture are beautiful and colorful, and it is an important cut flower species; it can also be potted as an ornamental plant. So how is Dendrobium thyrsiflorum cultivated? Below, the editor brings an introduction to cultivation and propagation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum.

Introduction to Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum (scientific name: Dendrobium thyrsiflorum Rchb. f.): stems erect or slanting, cylindrical, thick, unbranched, with several nodes, yellow-brown and glossy, with several longitudinal ridges. Leaves 3-4, alternate on the upper part of the stem, leathery, oblong or oblong-lanceolate. Racemes lateral on the upper part of leafy old stems, pendulous, 10-16 cm long, densely many-flowered; flowers spreading, thin in texture, sepals and petals white; petals nearly circular, 14 mm long, 12 mm wide, apex rounded and blunt, base with a claw about 2 mm long, with 7 veins and many branch veins, margin above the base with irregular fine teeth; lip golden yellow, semicircular-triangular, 15 mm long, 19 mm wide, apex rounded and blunt, base with a claw about 3 mm long. Flowering period April-May.

Dendrobium thyrsiflorum grows on tree trunks in mountain forests at an altitude of 1100-1800. It is distributed in China, northeastern India, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam. This flower is cultivated and has relatively high horticultural value.

How to cultivate Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

I. Cultivation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

1. Pot selection

Usually plastic or ceramic flower pots with many holes on all four walls are used, with charcoal roots, sphagnum moss, bark chunks, charcoal pieces, etc. as potting materials. According to the size of the orchid seedlings, choose flower pots of different specifications, but it is not suitable to use a large pot for small seedlings. The above-mentioned planting materials must be soaked in clean water for more than 1 day before use. Place more large tiles or broken bricks at the bottom of the pot, to a depth of about 1/3 of the pot bottom, then place the orchid seedling in the center of the pot, and insert a thin bamboo stick at the side to fix the orchid seedling, then fill in other cultivation materials, paying attention to separating roots from roots with material.

2. Watering

In the early stage of planting, first place it in a cool place with scattered light, and only spray some water on the leaf surface; do not water into the pot. After about 10-15 days, once new roots have sprouted, move it under a shade shed for care. During the growing season, watering should alternate between dry and wet, maintaining moderate dry thin cake fertilizer water. During the vigorous growth period, water once a day; in dry seasons and hot summers, also frequently spray water on the ground around the flower pot to maintain relatively high air humidity, and pay attention to good ventilation. During the winter dormant period, water less. Later, if air humidity is too low, water frequently to maintain moisture, and you can use a sprayer to water in the form of mist.

3. Temperature

Newly transplanted tissue-cultured seedlings are very sensitive to water; lack of water causes slow growth, drying out, and a low survival rate. Too much misting, however, causes waterlogging and root rot, and when temperature is high and humidity is great, it easily triggers large-scale outbreaks of soft rot. Within one week after transplanting (before the seedlings have developed new roots), air humidity should be kept at about 90%; one week later, the plant begins to grow new roots, and air humidity can be kept at 70%-80%. Alternating dry and wet planting beds are conducive to root growth and bud development. Avoid direct strong light; in spring and autumn, morning sunlight can be allowed, in winter it can be placed in a place with sufficient light, and at other times place it in a bright, scattered-light and ventilated place. The overwintering temperature should be kept at 8-10°C.

4. Fertilizing

Because Dendrobium species have aerial roots, suitable foliar fertilizer should be sprayed as a nutrient solution to supply the plant with sufficient nutrients and promote early root growth and bud development. For foliar fertilizer, potassium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, humic acids, etc., as well as imported ternary compound fertilizer and diluted MS medium, can be chosen. Generally one week after transplanting, after the plant has produced new roots, begin spraying one-thousandth potassium nitrate or monopotassium phosphate, once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays. After new shoots grow, spray 3‰ ternary compound fertilizer, etc., every 10-15 days. In poor growing areas, attention should be paid to topdressing: the first time around Qingming, mainly with nitrogen fertilizer mixed with pig and cattle manure and river mud. The second time around Lidong, use peanut cakes, rapeseed cakes, superphosphate, etc., add river mud, mix evenly into a paste and apply it to the roots; in addition, foliar topdressing can also be used.

5. Pruning

The crown density of the growing area for Dendrobium is about 60%, so the host trees should often be pruned and trimmed to avoid excessive shading or insufficient crown density. Each year before spring when new growth begins, in combination with harvesting old stems, cut off dead stems within the clump, and remove diseased stems, weak stems, and diseased roots. After 6-8 years of planting, depending on the growth of the clump base, turn the clump and divide it again for propagation.

II. Propagation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

1. Site selection

Site selection and land preparation: According to its growth habits, the cultivation site for Dendrobium species should preferably be a semi-shaded, semi-sunny environment, with air humidity above 80%, and in areas where the winter temperature is above 0°C. Artificially controllable environments are also acceptable. The tree species should be living trees such as Huangjue trees, pear trees, camphor trees, etc., with thick bark, longitudinal grooves, high water content, dense branches and leaves, and thick trunks. Stone areas should also be in cool, humid areas, and the stones should have moss growing on them and a small amount of humus on the surface.

2. Division propagation

3. Shoot division propagation

4. Cutting propagation

III. Disease control for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

I. Disease control

1. Black spot disease

When diseased, black-brown spots appear on young leaves, with yellow around the spots, gradually spreading to the leaves. In severe cases, the black spots on the leaves connect with each other into patches, and finally wither and fall off. This disease often occurs in early summer (March-May). Control method: use 1:1:150 Bordeaux mixture or 1000-fold Duoling solution to prevent and control its development.

2. Anthracnose

It harms leaves and stems. Affected leaves show brown or black disease spots, and it occurs from January to May. Control method: spray 2-3 times with 50% carbendazim 1000-fold solution or 50% thiophanate-methyl 1000-fold solution.

3. Sooty mold

When diseased, the leaf surface of the entire plant is covered with a layer of soot-gray black powdery substance, which seriously affects leaf photosynthesis and causes poor plant development. March-May is the main onset period of this disease. Control method: spray 1-2 times with 50% carbendazim 1000-fold solution or 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1500-fold solution for control.

II. Pest control

1. Pinnaspis buxi

This pest parasitizes the leaf edges or undersides of Dendrobium plants, sucking sap, causing plant leaves to wither, and in severe cases causing the entire plant to turn yellow and die. It can also trigger sooty mold. Control method: the peak hatching period of this pest is late May, and spraying with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution or 1-3 degree lime sulfur mixture gives better results. For those that have already formed scale shells but are few in number, they can be controlled by cutting off old branches and leaves and burning them in a concentrated way or crushing them to death.

2. Snails

The pests mainly hide on the undersides of leaves to gnaw on the leaf flesh or bite the stems and damage the petals. This pest can occur multiple times within a year. Once it occurs, the damage is extremely great, and it can often eat an entire plant beyond recognition in one night. Control method: mix bran with trichlorfon and scatter it in places where the pests frequently move for poison bait trapping; spray pesticides such as trichlorfon and deltamethrin in the cultivation bed and surrounding environment, and quicklime or saturated salt water can also be spread; pay attention to the cleanliness and hygiene of the cultivation site, and remove dead branches and fallen leaves outside the site in a timely manner.

Landscape uses of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

Ornamental value

The flower posture of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum is elegant, exquisite and lovely, the flower color is bright, and the fragrance is aromatic. It is praised as one of the “four great ornamental foreign flowers,” and can be used either as cut flowers or for potted display; having several pots at home makes it lively and extraordinary. In addition, the flowers do not wither even 2-3 days after being cut, and its vigorous vitality is admirable.

What are the propagation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum?

Cultivation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum and an introduction to the flower language of Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

How to cultivate Dendrobium thyrsiflorum: a detailed explanation of cultivation and propagation methods for Dendrobium thyrsiflorum

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