What are the key points for managing the cutting propagation of flowering maple?

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Because of the unusual flower shape of the flowering maple, some gardening enthusiasts think it is poisonous. In fact, the flowering maple is not poisonous at all and is a plant that can be grown with complete peace of mind. Propagating the flowering maple is easy; it can be placed in flower borders and flower beds, or grown in pots, with excellent results.

Flowering maple

The flowering maple is mainly propagated by cuttings, from June to August. Use vigorous 1- to 2-year-old branches or current-year semi-lignified young shoots as cuttings, 10 cm to 12 cm long; remove the lower leaves and insert half or one third of the depth into the soil, keeping it moist.

A 2-year-old cutting-propagated flowering maple can reach about 2 m in height, with a main stem diameter of 2 to 3 cm. The stem is grayish green, and the stems of perennial plants are gray or grayish brown. Its ability to sprout new shoots in spring is very strong; branches sprout from the leaf axils, and current-year branches are emerald green with a low degree of lignification and soft stems. The flowering maple has two types of leaves: one is ovate, 10 cm long, with a long petiole of uniform thickness throughout; the other is palmate, 12 to 18 cm. The leaves are arranged in whorls, with 4 to 9 leaves per whorl. In well-lit places or on vigorous plants, the leaves are generally palmate; in poorly lit places or on slightly weaker plants, the leaves are ovate.

A complete guide to the planting methods and techniques for campanula

Campanula is also called hanging bellflower. Because its flower stems are long, the flowers are distributed along the stems, and the blooms are shaped like wind chimes, like a string of chimes swaying in the wind, it is called campanula. Campanula has a cute appearance and is often used for ornamental garden planting. It likes a warm, humid environment and is suitable for growing in breathable, slightly sandy soil. However, many friends do not know much about how to grow campanula and plant it only by feel, which not only hinders its growth but may even cause the plant to die. Below, the editor will teach you how to grow campanula.

The morphological characteristics of campanula

Biennial herb, cold-tolerant, dislikes heat, prefers sunny, fertile, sandy loam with good drainage, but needs plenty of water during the growing period. It grows well in both neutral and alkaline soil. It blooms when the plant reaches more than 1 m in height. The plant is sturdy, and the bell-shaped flowers resemble wind chimes; the flower color is bright and elegant, with closed petals, orange-yellow, drooping. Its branches are soft, the green leaves are lush, and the flowers resemble wind chimes, brightly colored, swaying in the wind, beautiful and lovely. It is very popular in Europe and is a common herbaceous flower in small courtyards in late spring and early summer, often used to express healthy, gentle love. Some species have 5 petals, with flowers ranging from white to deep orange; the flowers droop and are often cultivated for ornamental purposes. It is still in the introduction stage in our country, but can be seen in flower markets and art floral arrangements.

Campanula looks like lily of the valley, but campanula is a plant of the Campanulaceae family and has a larger corolla. Lily of the valley is a plant of the Liliaceae family, with a smaller corolla, and it droops.

Key cultivation points for campanula

The optimum growing temperature is generally about 5 to 20 degrees. Plant out from early to mid-September, with a bed width of 50 cm and a plant spacing of 25 cm in a single row. Or grow in 6-7 inch pots and overwinter in a cold frame. Fertile neutral soil is best. In the following spring when buds sprout, apply an appropriate amount of NPK fertilizer. Apply a complete compound fertilizer 3-5 times.

Sowing time for campanula

Generally, it can be sown all year round. The optimum germination temperature for campanula is 18-25°C. The seeds are very tiny, so they can be sown in peat trays or pots, with the seeds covered with soil about 2-3 times the seed diameter. Seedlings emerge 10-20 days after sowing. When the true leaves unfold, thin the seedlings so they do not touch each other. Sunlight must be sufficient and the temperature not too high. Apply fertilizer 2-4 times as it grows. Transplant when there are 3-4 true leaves. For potted plants, repot once every spring and shorten the branches to encourage side branches and produce more flowers.

Cultivation techniques

Propagation methods

Use cuttings for propagation, from June to August. Use vigorous 1- to 2-year-old branches or current-year semi-lignified young shoots as cuttings, 10 cm-12 cm long; remove the lower leaves and insert half or one third of the depth into the soil, keeping it moist.

Planting method

Use cuttings for propagation. Use vigorous 1- to 2-year-old branches or current-year semi-lignified young shoots as cuttings. Pruning the plant to promote branching helps flowering. In areas of China north of the Yangtze River, grow it in a greenhouse. Young plants can be tip-pruned to improve light conditions, increase side branches, expand the canopy, and promote flowering. [3]

Watering and fertilizing

It is best grown in fertile, moist, well-drained sandy loam. The cuttings root after 25-35 days. Water after inserting the cuttings, provide shade, frequently spray water on the leaf surface, and pay attention to pinching to encourage more side branches, continuously improve light conditions, and help the canopy become full and the flowers large and beautiful.

Campanula is native to South America. It is an evergreen shrub of the genus Abutilon in the Malvaceae family. It likes a warm, humid environment with plenty of sunlight and also tolerates partial shade. It is suitable for growing in humus-rich, loose, breathable sandy soil, and is cultivated in Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangsu and other places in our country. In areas with suitable conditions, it blooms year-round and stays evergreen in all four seasons, and its excellent traits are rare among ornamental plants, making it much loved. In addition, campanula also has industrial value and medicinal value. The stem bark can be used to extract fiber for processing woven products, and the leaves and flowers have effects such as promoting blood circulation and removing blood stasis, and soothing the meridians.

The above is the campanula planting method compiled for you by the editor. Have you learned it? If you want to extend the flowering period of campanula, you must pay attention to the frequency of watering, which should not be too frequent. The flower language of campanula is blessings and thanks from afar. Such a warm flower is very suitable for giving on Thanksgiving to someone you need to thank, on Mother's Day to your own mother, on Teachers' Day to a beloved teacher, or to an elder who has helped you; all are good choices.

A brief introduction to the cultivation methods of the lantern flower

Cultivation methods of the lantern flower

Basic information on the lantern flower

Scientific name: Abutilon striatum. Aliases: flowering maple, campanula, striped abutilon, net-veined abutilon, lantern hibiscus, Chinese lantern flower, veined-leaf hanging bellflower, bell hibiscus, red-veined abutilon.

Family and genus: Malvaceae, Abutilon.

Evergreen shrub, with a rather spreading habit, 1-3 m tall. Leaves alternate, palmately 3-5 lobed, broadly ovate, with long petioles. Blooms from June to November, and can bloom year-round when the temperature is suitable. Flowers are solitary in the leaf axils of the middle and upper parts of the main stem and branches. The pedicels are slender and drooping; the calyx is green and cup-shaped; there are 5 petals that do not spread open, with the petal tips curved inward, in a semi-open state, orange-yellow, with orange-red or red veins; the staminal column is orange-red and extends beyond the corolla.

The lantern flower has soft branches and a flowering period lasting as long as half a year. The flower colors are gorgeous, and the hanging blooms sway in the wind, as if they were wind chimes tinkling in the breeze, and also like round lanterns hanging high among the branches, full of an auspicious and lively atmosphere. In South China it is often planted in courtyards, while in the north it is mostly grown in pots for ornament.

[Lantern flower propagation] Cuttings, layering.

(1) Cuttings: Can be done in spring, the plum rain season, and autumn, with plum rain season cuttings being best. For spring and autumn cuttings, select robust 1-year-old branches as cuttings; for plum rain season cuttings, cut vigorous semi-mature branches as cuttings. The cuttings are about 15 cm long. After inserting, keep them moist and provide shade. They can take root and survive after 20-30 days. Those that take root and survive from cuttings in late June can bloom the same year.

(2) Layering: Use air layering, carried out in May-June.

[Key cultivation and care points for the lantern flower]

(1) Temperature: It likes warmth, and the optimum growing temperature is 15-28°C. It is more cold-tolerant than hibiscus and can endure a short period of 3°C low temperature. When the temperature is low, it will drop leaves, but it can still sprout branches and leaves after the weather warms in the following spring. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 5°C. In winter, if the room temperature can be kept at 18-30°C, it can continue to bloom continuously.

(2) Light: It likes ample sunlight. Although it can tolerate partial shade and can also grow in slightly shady places, the plant grows and blooms best under full sun, so it must be placed in a sunny location.

(3) Watering: It likes a moist soil environment and is not drought-tolerant. During the growing period, water adequately to keep the potting soil moist but not dry. After entering the flowering period in June, its water requirements increase, so watering should be increased to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering. However, it also dislikes waterlogging, so watering should not be too wet. During the plum rain season, promptly pour out accumulated water from the pot after rain. In winter, watering needs to be moderated, especially after leaf drop at low temperatures, when even more attention should be paid to reducing watering so the potting soil does not become too wet.

(4) Fertilizing: It likes fertilizer. After the plant begins to grow in spring, apply a nitrogen fertilizer once every half month to promote robust growth of branches and leaves. In late May, the plant is about to enter the vigorous period of growth and flowering, so nutrients should be supplied in time, applying a fertilizer combining nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium once every half month to encourage more side branches, continuous flowering, and to keep the flowering momentum from declining. Avoid applying only nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the branches and leaves grow vigorously but there are few flowers; only when the plant is obviously deficient in fertilizer and the leaves become thin, small, and yellow is it necessary to apply an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer. In September, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer twice and stop applying nitrogen fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in winter.

(5) Pruning: Young trees should be tip-pruned more to encourage branching. After being brought out of the shed in spring, prune the plant in conjunction with repotting. In addition to cutting out slender weak branches and overly dense branches, the retained 1-year-old branches should also be shortened to dwarf the plant and encourage branching and more flowering. For aging plants whose growth vigor has deteriorated, pruning should be intensified; otherwise the plant grows weak, tends to drop buds, and blooms sparsely.

(6) Repotting: Repot once every spring. It likes fertile, moist, well-drained sandy loam. The growing medium can be prepared from materials such as leaf mold, peat soil, garden soil, perlite, or coarse sand.

(7) Pest and disease control: It is harmed by pests and diseases such as leaf spot, anthracnose, red spider mites, aphids, and scale insects.

[Common problems in cultivating and caring for the lantern flower]

Common problem   Cause
Leaf drop in winter   Usually caused by low temperature
Lush branches and leaves but few flowers   ①Poor light; ②Potting soil too dry or too wet; ③Lack of fertilizer; ④Too little pruning at repotting