How to Propagate Tiger Lilies by Division: A Detailed Guide
The tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium) is an excellent variety of lily, a perennial bulbous flower with a distinctive flower shape and a delicate, captivating beauty. It is a fairly standard ornamental flower variety. Tiger lilies can be propagated artificially by division; since the tiger lily is a bulbous flower, dividing it means dividing the bulbs.
Tiger lily
I. Timing and Method of Division
The tiger lily is best divided in early spring (February or March), after the soil has thawed. Take the mother plant out of the pot, shake off the excess potting soil, separate the tangled root system as much as possible, and cut it apart with a sharp knife into two or more plants. Each division must have a substantial root system, and its leaves should be trimmed appropriately to help it survive.
II. Potting and Disinfection
Soak the divided small plants in a 1500-fold dilution of chlorothalonil for five minutes, then take them out and let them dry before potting. Alternatively, drench the roots with chlorothalonil right after potting.
III. Care After Division
After the divisions are potted, drench the roots or water thoroughly once. Because its root system is heavily damaged and its ability to absorb water is very weak, it takes about 3 to 4 weeks to recover and sprout new roots. Therefore, within the 3 to 4 weeks after division, watering must be controlled to avoid root rot. However, transpiration from its leaves is unaffected, so to maintain the water balance of the leaves, mist the foliage 1 to 3 times a day (mist more when the temperature is high, less or not at all when it is low). Do not apply fertilizer during this period either. After division, also watch out for excessively strong sunlight; the plant can be kept in a shade house.
IV. Potting or Transplanting
When potting small seedlings, first put a 2 to 2 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate or ceramic pellets in the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as a base fertilizer about 1 to 2 cm thick, then cover with another layer of substrate about 1 to 2 cm thick, and then place the plant in, so that the fertilizer is separated from the roots and root burn is avoided.
For the potting substrate, choose one of the following. Vegetable garden soil : cinder = 3:1; or garden soil : medium-coarse river sand : sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold. Or peat + perlite + ceramic pellets = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; vegetable garden soil + cinder = 3 parts + 1 part; peat + cinder + ceramic pellets = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; sawdust + vermiculite + medium-coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part. After potting, water thoroughly once and keep the plant in a slightly shaded environment for a week.
When transplanting small seedlings, first dig the planting hole, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the hole as a base fertilizer about 4 to 6 cm thick, then cover with a layer of soil and place the seedling in, so that the fertilizer is separated from the roots and root burn is avoided. After placing the seedling, backfill the soil to cover the roots, firm the soil with your foot, and water thoroughly once.
How to Propagate Tiger Lilies by Division
[Timing and Method of Division]The tiger lily is best divided in early spring (February or March), after the soil has thawed. Take the mother plant out of the pot, shake off the excess potting soil, separate the tangled root system as much as possible, and cut it apart with a sharp knife into two or more plants. Each division must have a substantial root system, and its leaves should be trimmed appropriately to help it survive.
[Potting and Disinfection]
Soak the divided small plants in a 1500-fold dilution of chlorothalonil for five minutes, then take them out and let them dry before potting. Alternatively, drench the roots with chlorothalonil right after potting.
[Care After Division]
After the divisions are potted, drench the roots or water thoroughly once. Because its root system is heavily damaged and its ability to absorb water is very weak, it takes about 3 to 4 weeks to recover and sprout new roots. Therefore, within the 3 to 4 weeks after division, watering must be controlled to avoid root rot. However, transpiration from its leaves is unaffected, so to maintain the water balance of the leaves, mist the foliage 1 to 3 times a day (mist more when the temperature is high, less or not at all when it is low). Do not apply fertilizer during this period either. After division, also watch out for excessively strong sunlight; the plant can be kept in a shade house.
[Potting or Transplanting]
When potting small seedlings, first put a 2 to 2 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate or ceramic pellets in the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as a base fertilizer about 1 to 2 cm thick, then cover with another layer of substrate about 1 to 2 cm thick, and then place the plant in, so that the fertilizer is separated from the roots and root burn is avoided.
For the potting substrate, choose one of the following. Vegetable garden soil : cinder = 3:1; or garden soil : medium-coarse river sand : sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, or leaf mold. Or peat + perlite + ceramic pellets = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; vegetable garden soil + cinder = 3 parts + 1 part; peat + cinder + ceramic pellets = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part; sawdust + vermiculite + medium-coarse river sand = 2 parts + 2 parts + 1 part. After potting, water thoroughly once and keep the plant in a slightly shaded environment for a week.
When transplanting small seedlings, first dig the planting hole, sprinkle a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the hole as a base fertilizer about 4 to 6 cm thick, then cover with a layer of soil and place the seedling in, so that the fertilizer is separated from the roots and root burn is avoided. After placing the seedling, backfill the soil to cover the roots, firm the soil with your foot, and water thoroughly once.
How to Grow Tiger Lilies: Propagation Methods for Tiger Lilies
The tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium), also known as the tiger lily, the nodding lotus, or the leopard lily, is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant. It prefers warm, dry climatic conditions and is fairly tolerant of sunlight. Today we will introduce the growing methods and propagation methods for the tiger lily.
How to Grow Tiger Lilies
The tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium), also known as the tiger lily, the nodding lotus, or the leopard lily, is a perennial herbaceous bulbous plant. It prefers warm, dry climatic conditions and is fairly tolerant of sunlight. It grows luxuriantly in fertile, humus-rich sandy soil with good drainage, with well-developed bulbs and brilliant flower colors. It responds well to nitrogen fertilizer, and soybean cake, rapeseed cake, farmyard compost, and nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer are the best choices.
During the growing season, loosen the soil and weed frequently, and cultivate between the rows along with watering and fertilizing. Generally, apply diluted liquid fertilizer 2-3 times during the growing season to promote the growth and development of the plants. As flower buds are about to form and the plant approaches blooming, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer 1-2 times to ensure the plants have sufficient nutrition during bud formation and flowering; this not only makes the flowers larger and more vividly colored but also promotes the development of the bulbs.
In the north, choose a sunny, wind-sheltered spot; in the south, it can be planted in a slightly shaded place. The best planting time is August to September. Apply plenty of base fertilizer one month before planting and dig the soil deeply; compost and plant ash can be used as the base fertilizer.
For pot cultivation, September to October is suitable. The potting mix should be prepared by mixing leaf mold, sandy soil, and garden soil in a 1:1:1 ratio, and plenty of fully decomposed compost plus a small amount of bone meal should be applied at the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer. The planting depth is generally about 2-3 times the diameter of the bulb.
Tiger lilies do not have very high fertilizer requirements; usually it is enough to apply fertilizer when growth begins in spring and at the start of flowering. Some growers abroad believe that lilies need larger amounts of nitrogen and potassium fertilizer and should be fertilized every 10-15 days during the growing season, while phosphorus fertilizer should be limited, because too much phosphorus fertilizer causes the leaves to turn yellow. During the flowering period, phosphorus fertilizer can be applied for 1-2 days.
To make the bulbs plump, promptly remove spent flowers after blooming to reduce nutrient consumption. Watering only needs to keep the potting soil moist, but during the peak growing season and in dry weather, water somewhat more frequently, and often sprinkle water around the flower pot to raise air humidity. The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulbs rot easily. Potted lilies should be repotted once a year, with fresh potting soil and base fertilizer. In addition, during the growing season, turn the pot once a week. Otherwise the plant tends to grow lopsided, which affects its looks.
Propagation Methods for Tiger Lilies
Tiger lilies can be propagated by division. It is best done in February or March, after the soil has thawed. Take the mother plant out of the pot, shake off the excess potting soil, separate the tangled root system as much as possible, and cut it apart with a sharp knife into two or more plants. Each division must have a substantial root system, and its leaves should be trimmed appropriately to help it survive.