Cutting Propagation Methods and Technical Key Points for Dieffenbachia amoena
Dieffenbachia amoena is actually a species in the Dieffenbachia genus; its leaves are very large, and it is often kept by flower enthusiasts as a feng shui plant. Dieffenbachia amoena is not difficult to cultivate, and artificial propagation can be done by cuttings.
Dieffenbachia amoena is actually a species in the Dieffenbachia genus (see details); its leaves are very large, and it is often kept by flower enthusiasts as a feng shui plant. Dieffenbachia amoena is not difficult to cultivate, and artificial propagation can be done by cuttings.
Dieffenbachia amoena
Dieffenbachia amoena is mostly propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are generally taken from April to June. Take a terminal stem about 10-15 cm long as the cutting, remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in a medium of equal volumes of charcoal soil and sand, place in a relatively shaded spot, maintain a temperature of 21-24°C. Roots begin to form about half a month after cutting, and it can be potted up after one month.
Introduction to Dieffenbachia amoena and Key Care Points
Dieffenbachia amoena
Scientific name: Dieffenbachia amoena
Aliases: Giant Dieffenbachia, Giant Spotted Dieffenbachia, June Snow Dieffenbachia
Family and genus: Araceae, Dieffenbachia
Place of origin and distribution: Colombia, Costa Rica and other places.
Key care points: Evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. Plant height 1-2 m, with irregular white spots or stripes on the huge green leaves. A world-famous indoor potted foliage plant. Pot cultivation in peat soil or leaf mold. Apply liquid fertilizer once about every two weeks during the growing season; always keep sufficient moisture in the potting soil. Prefers semi-shade and a humid environment. Avoid direct strong sunlight; provide about 50% shade in spring, summer and autumn; frequently sprinkle water around the plant to increase air humidity. Prefers high temperatures and fears cold; the optimum growing temperature is 18-30°C, and the overwintering temperature should be above 16°C.
Cultivated species and varieties in the same genus include: 'Rudolph Roehrs' Dieffenbachia D. maculata 'Rudolph Roehrs', 'Camille' Dieffenbachia D. 'Camille', 'Galaxy' Dieffenbachia D. 'Galaxy', etc.
Propagation: Cuttings.
Light: Needs light, slightly tolerant of shade (semi-shade).
Water: Grows in moist soil.
Temperature: Not cold-tolerant; frost damage occurs below 0°C.
Humidity: Prefers humidity; relative humidity above 60%, generally 70%-90%.
Warning: The stem sap of Dieffenbachia amoena is toxic; never ingest it.
Rohdea japonica Rohdea japonica Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Rohdea japonica / How to Propagate Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica ProfileRohdea japonica Rohdea japonica
Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Rohdea japonica Introduction to Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica (scientific name: Rohdea japonica) is the only species in the genus Rohdea. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as yun, qiannian yun, kaikou jian, jiujie lian, dongbudiao, dongbudiao cao, tiebiandan, wumudu, baisha cao, zhanshe jian, etc. It is native to southern China and Japan and is a very popular excellent ornamental plant. It has a long history of cultivation in China. Its Chinese name "yun" means "a herbaceous plant that likes warmth."
Morphological Characteristics of Rohdea japonica
Rhizome 1.5-2.5 cm thick. Leaves 3-6, thickly papery, oblong, lanceolate or oblanceolate, 15-50 cm long, 2.5-7 cm wide, apex acute, base slightly narrowed, green, longitudinal veins obviously raised; sheath leaves lanceolate, 5-12 cm long. Scape shorter than leaves, 2.5-4 cm long; spike 3-4 cm long, 1.2-1.7 cm wide; with dozens of densely packed flowers; bracts ovate, membranous, shorter than flowers, 2.5-6 mm long, 2-4 mm wide; perianth 4-5 mm long, 6 mm wide, pale yellow, lobes thick; anthers ovate, 1.4-1.5 mm long. Berry about 8 mm in diameter, red when ripe. Flowering period May-June, fruiting period September-November.
Produced in Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Sichuan. Grows in moist places under forests or on grassland, at an altitude of 750-1700 m.
The whole plant has the effect of clearing heat and detoxifying, dissipating blood stasis and relieving pain. Potted plants are often kept for ornamental purposes in various places.
Perennial evergreen herb, without aboveground stem. Rhizome thick and short, yellow-white, noded, with many slender fibrous roots growing from the nodes. Leaves clustered from the rhizome, thick, lanceolate or strap-shaped, 10-25 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide, margins slightly folded inward, base gradually narrowing into a petiole-like shape, dark green above, light green below, with several straight parallel veins, the midrib relatively thick. [1] In spring and summer, scapes emerge from the leaf cluster, 10-20 cm long; flowers numerous, clustered at the top in a short spike; perianth 6-parted, pale greenish-white, ovate to triangular, pointed at the tip, broad at the base, lower part fused into a disc shape; stamens 6, sessile, anthers oblong; ovary spherical, style short, stigma 3-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red; containing 1 seed.
Variety Classification of Rohdea japonica: Dieffenbachia
[Alias] Dumb cane.
[Scientific name] Dieffenbachia maculata
[Family and genus] Araceae, Dieffenbachia.
[Morphology] Perennial evergreen herb. Stem thick and stout, mostly fleshy, plant height up to 1 m. Leaves large and glossy, borne on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovoid or broadly lanceolate, apex acuminate, margin entire, 20-50 cm long, 5-15 cm wide, both sides of the leaf dark green, inlaid with dense, irregular white, milky white, pale yellow and other colored spots, markings and patches. Common horticultural varieties include Dieffenbachia amoena, 'Camille' Dieffenbachia, 'Summer White' Dieffenbachia, etc.
[Habits] Native to tropical America. Prefers high temperature, high humidity, semi-shade or shady environments. Not cold-tolerant, avoid direct strong light, requires loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.
[Propagation] Mainly by cuttings. In spring from April to May, cut off the small shoots emerging from the base of the plant, let the wound dry slightly, or dip the wound in plant ash and insert into plain sandy soil, taking care to shade and keep moist; roots form in about 1 month and it can be potted up.
[Cultivation] For pot cultivation, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand plus a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. During the growing season, to keep the potting soil moist, water more frequently, preferring wet over dry, while also spraying water on the leaves. In autumn, control watering, alternating between dry and wet; in winter, keep the potting soil dry. During the growing season, fertilize generally once a month; usually prevent direct sunlight and provide shade. Repot once every spring. The overwintering temperature in winter must not be lower than 10°C.
[Uses] Potted ornamental. Suitable for decorating living rooms and studies.
Decorative application: Small potted plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium potted plants are suitable for the living room, placed beside the sofa as decoration, filling the room with green vitality.
Light: Tolerant of semi-shade, avoid excessively strong sunlight, but overly dim light will also cause the leaves to fade.
Water: Prefers moisture; water more during the growing season from March to August. In summer, sprinkle water frequently to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: Prefers high temperature, not cold-tolerant; optimum growing temperature 20-30°C. The minimum overwintering temperature should be above 12°C. Once frosted, the leaves turn yellow and wilt, and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth; from March to August, apply fertilizer solution once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
[Propagation]: Cutting propagation. Can be done in spring and summer. Take 10-15 cm long young shoots and insert into yellow sand medium; roots form in 20-30 days. Afterwards, repot into a new pot according to plant size.
Ornithogalum caudatum
[Brief Introduction] Ornithogalum caudatum is native to southern Africa. Prefers sunlight, also tolerant of semi-shade, cold-tolerant. In summer it fears direct sunlight and likes a humid environment. After heavy frost in winter, the leaf cluster still remains verdant. The bulb has a habit of summer dormancy, with strong tillering ability and a high propagation coefficient.
[Propagation] Commonly propagated by bulb division and sowing. Natural bulb division propagation: dig up the bulbs in August-September, grade them by size and plant; after one planting, wait several years until the bulbs become crowded before dividing again. Sowing propagation: seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
[Cultivation] Grows robustly, tolerant of rough management; fertilize once every half month; the soil should be loose, moist and well-drained. After flowering, remove the spent flower stalks, and the next year's flowering will be more abundant. The bulb storage temperature is 25°C, and it needs dry, ventilated conditions.
[Pests and Diseases] Diseases include mosaic disease, with the virus spread by aphids; it can be controlled by spraying with 2.5% derris extract at 800 times dilution.
[Application] Ornithogalum caudatum blooms from mid-April to early May; the flowers come in white, orange and double-flowered types. In spring, the star-shaped white flowers sparkle, elegant and simple; it is an excellent material for natural-style gardens and rock gardens, and is also suitable for cut flowers and potted ornamental display.
Aglaonema modestum
Also called Chinese evergreen. Aglaonema modestum is a perennial herb of the Araceae family, plant height 60-70 cm, stem erect and unbranched, internodes obvious.
Leaves alternate, petioles long, base expanded into a sheath, leaves green, long lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. Blooms in autumn, inflorescence axillary, shorter than the petiole.
Its leaves are broad and glossy, emerald green in all seasons, and especially shade-tolerant; it can be cut to make foliage bonsai or as a cut-flower accompaniment to decorate the environment, and can also be used for potted decoration of rooms.
Chinese Rohdea japonica
Chinese Rohdea japonica, famous since ancient and modern times, emerald green and evergreen through the four seasons, with orange-red abundant fruits that do not wither in winter; it is regarded among the people as a symbol of good fortune and is widely cultivated in both north and south. In the north it is potted and can be placed indoors for viewing all year round.
Rohdea japonica is a perennial herbaceous flower of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family. It has a short, thick rhizome underground; leaves grow in a cluster from the top of the rhizome, strap-shaped or oblanceolate; the scape is relatively short, emerging from the leaf cluster, with a terminal spike; small flowers are white and dense; berries are spherical and orange-red; flowering period June to July. In the north, potted plants rarely bear fruit, so they are mainly grown for foliage.
The genus Rohdea is native to China, with only this one species. Varieties include golden-edged Rohdea japonica, silver-edged Rohdea japonica, variegated Rohdea japonica, as well as large-leaf, fine-leaf and dwarf varieties. Another commonly cultivated plant is Aglaonema modestum, also called bamboo-node Rohdea japonica, a perennial herbaceous flower of the Araceae family, originating from South China, Southwest China, India to Malaysia. It shares the same name as Rohdea japonica but belongs to a different family and genus. Its varieties include the four queens: Gold, Silver, Jade and Beauty. The leaf colors are inlaid like gold and jade, brilliantly colorful, and all rank among today's outstanding indoor ornamental flowers.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum are potted plants that require a humus-rich, loose, fertile, slightly acidic growing medium. They prefer high temperature and high humidity, are not tolerant of severe cold, and the overwintering temperature must not be lower than 5°C. They prefer shade and avoid direct strong light; in winter they can be placed in a sunny spot, and in summer they should be shaded, avoiding soaking by rain. Chinese Rohdea japonica is mainly propagated by division. Aglaonema modestum is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably in March or from September to October. Aglaonema modestum can also have 8 cm long stem sections cut and soaked in clear water to root before planting, or be grown in water in a glass vessel to enjoy the leaves and roots; it remains unfading for a long time. If you want the leaf color to be deep green, apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate once or twice in spring and autumn.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema modestum should have their soil changed and pots repotted once every two to three years in early spring. After repotting, place them in a warm, humid, shaded spot, and frequently spray water on the leaves and surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, they can be placed outdoors under a shade frame after mid-May, and brought indoors in early October, placed in a place with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.
Rhoeo discolor
Rhoeo discolor alias: oyster plant, purple Rhoeo, purple brocade orchid, Commelinaceae
The genus Rhoeo discolor is native to Mexico and the West Indies
It is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves lanceolate, green on the upper surface with stripes of varying shades, purple-red on the underside, also with stripes of varying shades of purple-red (see photo). Stems and leaves somewhat succulent. Flowering period August-October, sets seed easily. Small flowers white; because the flowers grow inside two purple-red oyster-shaped large bracts, resembling an oyster shell spitting out pearls, it is also called "oyster flower."
Its leaves have different colors on each side, emerald and varied, with a moderate plant shape and graceful posture; the red bracts contain many jade-white small flowers, with obvious color contrast, strange and interesting, presenting the scene of an oyster shell spitting out pearls, very rarely seen, and never tiresome to look at.
Rhoeo discolor prefers semi-shade and a humid environment, likes fertile, loose sandy loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, fears exposure to the sun, and fears cold; growth stops at 10°C, so overwintering above 10°C is best.
It has good shade tolerance and also a strong ability to adapt to dry climates, thus making it an excellent foliage plant for indoor cultivation in both northern and southern China. It can be placed long-term in a bright living room; if the room is relatively dark, it is best to replace it about every 20 days.
Its propagation is mainly by sowing; the tiny seeds can be sown immediately after collection, sprouting in half a month, and seedlings can be transplanted when 3-5 cm tall. It can also be propagated by cuttings, carried out in spring and autumn; cut off the leafy top part and insert it in sandy soil, place in a shaded spot, do not overwater, roots form in about 20 days, and normal management resumes when new leaves grow. The remaining old stem can also regrow new shoots.
Dieffenbachia seguine
Dieffenbachia seguine is also called Dieffenbachia amoena and dumb cane. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family, with a cylindrical, fleshy stem often bearing white ring marks, which are traces left after leaves fall. The leaves of Dieffenbachia seguine are long elliptic, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green midrib, appearing especially graceful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia.
Native to Colombia, it prefers damp heat; the growing temperature should be controlled at 25°C to 30°C, and the winter room temperature should be kept at 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. Dieffenbachia seguine is suitable for indoor cultivation; when cultivating, a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that moisture can continuously pass through the small holes in the pot bottom to maintain the potting soil's humidity.
Common varieties include:
1. Golden-edged Rohdea japonica (var. marginata).
2. Silver-edged Rohdea japonica (Var. variegata).
Others include large-leaf, fine-leaf, dwarf, and yellow-white variegated varieties; more common in Japan and Taiwan, China.
Distribution Area of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica is native to China and Japan. It is widely distributed in China, found in East China, Central China and Southwest China; the main producing areas include Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei and other places.
Ecological Habits of Rohdea japonica
It likes to grow in moist places under forests or in grassland.
It prefers a semi-shaded, warm, humid, well-ventilated environment, is not drought-tolerant, and slightly cold-tolerant; avoid direct sunlight and waterlogging.
It can be cultivated in ordinary garden soil, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in [2] humus, loose and with good water permeability.
Propagation Methods of Rohdea japonica
Both sowing and division propagation are possible.
The berries of Rohdea japonica mature in December; after maturing, they can be sown immediately after collection into potting soil mixed with equal parts fine sand and leaf mold, and the pot covered with glass or plastic film to maintain soil moisture, temperature and light. If the temperature is controlled at 20°C, they will germinate in 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 leaves, they can be divided and potted.
(1) Division method: Division method: Rohdea japonica has strong sprouting ability from underground stems. In spring and autumn, use a sharp knife to cut off new sprouts at the rhizome together with some lateral roots, coat the wound with plant ash, plant into a pot, water lightly, place in a shaded spot, and after 1-2 days water thoroughly. Alternatively, turn the entire plant out of the pot, and depending on plant size, use a sharp tool to divide it into several parts; let the wounds dry for a day or coat with plant ash, then pot up and manage as described above.
(2) Sowing method: Sowing is generally carried out from March to April. Sow in a flowerpot filled with growing medium; after watering, temporarily place in a shaded spot, keep moist, and under conditions of 25-30°C, germination occurs in about 25 days.
Cultivation Techniques of Rohdea japonica: Cultivation Management
For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. The soil pH for Rohdea japonica is 6-6.5, which can fully release soil nutrients and effectively promote flowering and fruiting. Repot regularly once a year; when repotting, remove rotten dead leaves and rhizomes, and use acidic soil with potassium fertilizer as the growing medium. After planting, place Rohdea japonica in a cool place for a few days to restore vitality.
Cultivation methods for Rohdea japonica: Keep it warm, humid and semi-shaded. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded spot to avoid strong light, otherwise it easily causes dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, after being brought out in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or under the eaves or in a shaded spot on the balcony. Rohdea japonica is a fleshy-rooted plant; waterlogging easily causes damage, and too much watering easily causes root rot. But air humidity must be maintained; if the air is dry, leaf tip drying and other adverse phenomena easily occur. In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to prevent heavy rain from drenching it, especially during the flowering period when it must not be rained on; place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated place sheltered from rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer when growth is more vigorous, apply Rohdea japonica liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, which can promote better growth and make the leaves dark green and glossy. In the vigorous flowering months of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation, which helps better flowering and fruiting (around the Beginning of Summer, cut off a few old leaves on the outer part of mature plants to facilitate the sprouting of new buds, new leaves and the emergence of scapes).
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors for overwintering, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, it easily causes leggy leaves, consuming large amounts of nutrients, so that growth weakens the next year and normal flowering and fruiting are affected. If leaf tips turn yellow and scorched in winter, or even the whole plant withers, it is mainly because the roots cannot absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter, air humidity must also be maintained and the potting soil kept slightly moist; generally watering 1-2 times a week is suitable. In addition, rinse the leaves once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from smoke and dust pollution, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and evergreen through the four seasons.
Key Cultivation Points
The growing environment should be kept warm, humid and semi-shaded. In summer, it is best to place it indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or in a shaded outdoor spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to sufficient watering, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Pay attention to water control. After bringing it indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the room temperature is too low, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold, drop leaves and die.
Precautions
1. Planting: Plant in spring or repot and change soil. It has no strict requirements for soil, but fears waterlogging; when planting in the ground or in pots, avoid hard clay and alkaline soil. For pot cultivation, generally use a mixture of leaf mold and sand; in the south it can be potted or grown in the open ground, while in the north it needs greenhouse cultivation. Change the soil once a year, repot once every 2 years, and replenish new fertile soil.
2. Light and temperature: Rohdea japonica prefers a semi-shaded environment and fears direct sunlight in summer. For greenhouse cultivation, provide more than 60% shade in spring, summer and autumn, and 40% shade in winter. Too strong light easily causes sunburn, and too weak light makes flowering and fruiting difficult. The suitable growing temperature is 15-18°C. In winter it goes dormant and enters the greenhouse, placed in a sunny spot, with the temperature kept above 10°C, and the minimum temperature must not be lower than 5°C. In the Yangtze River basin it can overwinter in the open ground; although the leaves may suffer frost damage, new leaves can still sprout again the next year.
3. Watering and fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. In summer, strengthen ventilation, prevent heatstroke and lower the temperature, and supply sufficient water, always keeping the potting soil moist and the surrounding air humid. In summer, water 1-2 times a day. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
4. Shaping and pruning: To maintain a good plant shape and improve ornamental value, as the plant grows, yellow leaves, remnant leaves and some old leaves at the lower part of the plant should be pruned in time. When growing at home in pots, you can wipe the leaves with a soft cloth dipped in beer, which not only removes dust but also adds nutrients to the leaves, making them glossy green and clean.
Cultivation of Ornithogalum caudatum
Distributed according to differences in growth cycle or plant morphology, cultivation methods also vary somewhat. The bulbous scales grow on or in the ground, ovate or spherical; leaves fleshy and thick, evergreen, alternately arranged on two sides from the base, with a beautiful luster on the surface, tongue-shaped; flowers borne singly, with small pedicels, stamens numerous, with yellow anthers at the tips. Because Japanese people think they look very much like the brushes used by ancient Japanese ladies to brush off excess white powder from their eyebrows, they are called eyebrow brushes. Berries spherical and red, seeds shaped like clivia seeds, fleshy.
Ornithogalum caudatum is strongly tolerant of both heat and cold, down to about 5°C, but evergreen varieties are best kept above 8°C so the leaves retain beautiful ornamental value. It is robust in constitution and free of pests and diseases, but attention should be paid to damage by spider mites; if any are seen, spraying a little insecticide is sufficient.
Cultivation is quite easy. Avoid direct strong light; in summer it needs to be placed in a ventilated spot with half-day shade for cultivation. It can be placed indoors, but attention must be paid to sufficient light to prevent leggy leaves that affect growth. It has good drought tolerance and avoids high humidity; if the soil is too wet, the bulb easily rots. During the growing period, water thoroughly after the surface soil dries; once a month, apply Hyponex No. 2 or diluted Hyponex liquid as water. However, as the dormancy period approaches, gradually reduce the frequency and amount of watering; during dormancy, watering can be stopped, but evergreen varieties can still be given a little water during dormancy to maintain the emerald green of the leaves.
Repotting can be done at the end of the dormancy period or the early part of the growing period; summer-dormant types around July, winter-dormant types around April. Use well-drained soil; a mixture of small-grain akadama soil and Daputie growing medium can be used. When planting, let about half of the bulb be exposed above the soil, planting it shallowly in the pot.
Generally, it can be propagated by bulb division or sowing. The bulbs can be divided about once every 3-5 years, which is a fairly simple and easy method. You can also sow the mature fleshy seeds from the spherical berries after the flowers fade, but the germination rate of the seeds decreases with longer storage time, and they do not store well, so they should be sown as soon as possible. Ornithogalum caudatum takes at least 3-4 years from seed germination to blooming, truly a long wait!
Ornithogalum caudatum is easy to cultivate and robust in constitution. Normally its fresh green leaves can be enjoyed as a foliage plant, and when it blooms you can also appreciate its peculiar flowers. It is quite suitable for beginners growing succulents to cultivate.
Care Knowledge: Aglaonema modestum
An evergreen herbaceous plant of the Araceae family, genus Aglaonema, also called Chinese evergreen. Stem erect, 40 cm to 50 cm tall. Leaves ovate to ovate-lanceolate, base obtuse, apex acuminate. Inflorescence emerging from the lower sheath, spathe small, green.
Originating from Southwest China and South China, also distributed from India to Malaysia. It prefers a warm, humid, sparsely shaded environment. For pot cultivation, loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained slightly acidic soil is suitable. Not cold-tolerant; overwintering temperature 5°C to 8°C. The leaves need frequent spraying, and the potting soil should always be kept moist. Mainly propagated by cuttings, which root very easily at 25°C; division is also possible.
Aglaonema modestum is very well adapted to indoor environments; it can be potted or placed in a vase, where it can keep growing and remains unfading for a long time. Common famous varieties include: Aglaonema commutatum, with a short stem, branching at the base, leaves ovate with white spots and white veins. Aglaonema pictum, shrub-like, with irregular bright green or gray-white markings on the leaf surface. Aglaonema costatum, with a white stem marked with green lines and branching. The leaf surface has irregular yellow-brown markings, and the spathe is greenish-white. These three Aglaonema species are not cold-tolerant, and the suitable overwintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves of Dieffenbachia have many irregular white or pale yellow spots, with vivid colors, and are green through all four seasons.
[Water]: Prefers moisture. Water more in summer, but avoid waterlogging; frequently spray water on the leaves. Reduce watering in winter. Do not let it be rained on during the flowering period.
[Fertilizer]: Has low fertilizer requirements. Apply base fertilizer when repotting; generally no additional fertilizing is needed.
[Soil]: Highly adaptable, but loose, well-aerated, slightly acidic loam is most suitable.
[Temperature]: In northern regions it needs indoor overwintering; in the Jiangnan region it can overwinter in the open ground; above 5°C no frost damage occurs.
[Light]: Prefers semi-shade, avoids exposure to the sun. Indoors it should be placed in a ventilated spot with indirect light.
[Propagation]: Division propagation. In early spring, divide the sprouted shoots and plant them together with the roots; they survive easily. Sowing is also possible, but generally not used. Division can be combined with repotting, generally repotting once a year, dividing the clustered plant into several clumps for separate cultivation, and dividing once every 3 years.
Rhoeo discolor
Rhoeo discolor is also called purple brocade orchid. It is an evergreen perennial herb of the Commelinaceae family, with broad lanceolate leaves arranged in a ring on a short stem; the leaf surface is smooth and dark green, and the leaf underside is dark purple; flowers are axillary, with white flowers accompanied by two oyster-shell-like purple bracts, and white long hairs on the filaments. It is a commonly cultivated indoor foliage plant.
This plant is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It prefers a warm, humid climate and grows best at temperatures of 15-25°C. It likes light but also tolerates shade, and fears harsh sunlight. It requires fertile soil with good water retention.
For the purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), the potting soil should be a mix of 2 parts pond mud and 1 part peat. Because it is highly adaptable, its care is relatively simple. Apart from needing shade or a semi-shaded spot from May to October, it should be given ample light at all other times. Watering should err on the side of moisture rather than dryness, but it must not be overly wet or waterlogged, otherwise the roots will rot over time. In dry weather, mist frequently to keep the growing environment at a high air humidity. Fertilize sparingly; applying cake fertilizer water 1-2 times is enough. In winter, place it indoors in a humid spot, keep it at around 6-10°C, and keep the soil slightly moist -- not too wet.
The purple-backed oyster plant is mostly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by cuttings or sowing. Division is usually carried out in spring when repotting; the method is to cut the dense mother plant apart at the gaps with a sharp knife. Cuttings can be taken during the growing season; cut a 7-10 cm length from the stem tip, remove the lower leaves, insert it into sand, keep it moist, and roots will form in about 2 weeks. Sowing is usually done in pots in April; seedlings grow quickly after emergence. When the seedlings reach about an inch tall, transplant them promptly, and by autumn of that year they will have grown into full plants.
Zebra leaf Dieffenbachia
Zebra leaf Dieffenbachia is native to Colombia. It prefers a warm, humid climate, with an optimum growing temperature of 25°C to 30°C. In winter, the indoor temperature should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. The potting soil can be a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand. Zebra leaf Dieffenbachia prefers a semi-shaded environment and dislikes direct sunlight; it can be grown indoors year-round. It tolerates wet conditions, so a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray so that moisture continuously seeps into the potting soil through the small holes in the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be restricted, and the lower the temperature, the more careful one should be to water less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and drop, but as long as the plant is not damaged by freezing, it will produce new leaves again the following spring. If it is kept indoors for the winter and grows weakly with a tendency toward leggy growth, it can be placed outdoors in a semi-shaded spot for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors once its vigor has recovered. Fertilization can be done during the growing season, depending on the plant's condition, once or twice a month, mainly with decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote lush green leaves, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used excessively.
Its "flower" is the typical spathe-and-spadix inflorescence of the Araceae family. It rarely or never sets seed, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically vegetative, with the main methods being tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method involves cutting the old stem into 10 to 15 cm sections in spring, inserting them diagonally into sandy soil, keeping them moist, and transplanting them into pots after they have rooted and grown leaves. Alternatively, during the peak growing season, the stem can be cut into small sections with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, left to dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then planted directly in a pot, kept moist, and they will quickly take root and grow leaves. You can also cut a stem section with leaves and place it in a transparent glass water bottle, fixing it with white rice stone used for architectural decoration, and in about half a month you will see it grow pure white, jade-like adventitious roots -- you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, take care during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as zebra leaf Dieffenbachia, which also have some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant, and sturdy stems -- an ideal indoor ornamental specimen.
Other types
Its key cultivation points are: warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill, or outdoors in a shaded spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to ample watering, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month.
In the north, after being brought indoors for winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it can easily cause cold damage, leaf drop, and death. In winter, rinse the leaf surface once a week with warm water to prevent the leaves from being soiled by smoke and dust, keeping the stems and leaves fresh and elegant.
Care
For potted lily-of-China (Rohdea japonica), it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. A soil pH between 6 and 6.5 is more conducive to fully utilizing the effectiveness of nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove aged rhizomes and lingering dead leaves, and plant in fertilized acidic cultivation soil. After potting, place it in a shaded spot for a few days. The key cultivation points for lily-of-China are: warmth, humidity, and semi-shade. It grows vigorously in summer and needs to be placed in a shaded spot to avoid strong light, otherwise the leaf tips may dry out and the edges scorch, affecting the ornamental effect. Lily-of-China has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it should not be watered too much, otherwise root rot is likely. Normally, just water the potting soil with an appropriate amount; do not water until the potting soil is dry, and it is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. In summer, water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the flowerpot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to protect it from heavy rain.[3]
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once every 20 days or so; in early summer, when growth is more vigorous, apply liquid fertilizer as a top dressing about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the top dressing, which will promote better growth and make the leaves dark green and glossy. During the peak flowering period in June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once every 15 days or so to promote flower bud differentiation and better flowering and fruiting. During the flowering period, it must not be exposed to rain; place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated spot sheltered from rain.
In winter, lily-of-China needs to be moved indoors for the winter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated spot, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C, to prevent the room temperature from being too high and causing the plant to consume nutrients excessively.
Fruiting
The fruit of lily-of-China often does not set easily. How can it be made to set fruit?
① Do not water too frequently; do not water until the potting soil is dry. Better to keep it on the dry side than too wet.
② During flowering, it must not be exposed to rain; place it in a cool, ventilated spot sheltered from rain.
③ Do not fertilize too much; applying winter fertilizer once a year is enough.
④ There must be an environment that allows snails to transfer pollen.
If the above four points can be achieved, fruiting can generally be expected. It flowers in May-June and the fruit ripens in September-October. Under normal conditions, the fruit does not drop throughout the winter.
Leaves
Lily-of-China prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment and dislikes direct strong sunlight in summer. The key to growing lily-of-China well is to avoid direct strong sunlight in summer when the weather is hot and the sunlight is intense. Otherwise, the leaf tips are prone to drying out and the edges scorching, or even turning yellow and withering, affecting the ornamental effect.
Therefore, after being brought out in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves, or in a shaded spot on a balcony, and care should be taken to protect it from rain. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent, and watering should be controlled in winter. Lily-of-China has fleshy roots, so it is most afraid of waterlogging; if watered too much, the roots easily rot. However, the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, leaf tip drying and other undesirable phenomena are also likely to occur.
In spring and autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 3-4 weeks, which will keep the plant growing robustly and the leaves green. In addition, around the beginning of summer, several outer old leaves of mature plants should be cut off to promote the sprouting of new shoots and new leaves and the emergence of flower stalks.
Cold damage
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, Dieffenbachia is highly susceptible to cold damage, and if not managed promptly, it can die. So, what corresponding measures should be taken after cold damage occurs?
[Slight cold damage]: The leaf surface loses its proper luster, and the leaves droop as if dehydrated. At this point, move the Dieffenbachia to a warmer place so that it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise abruptly after the damage, to avoid leaf wilting.
[Mild cold damage]: In addition to drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage patches resembling scalding by boiling water. To treat, cut off the cold-damaged patches on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
[Moderate cold damage]: Most of the leaves develop cold-damage patches, and the petioles develop water-soaked patches and lose their green color. At this point, cut off both leaves and petioles, apply plant ash or coal ash to the wounds, then place it in a warm spot, appropriately control watering, and let it slowly return to normal.
[Severe cold damage]: The young branches and new leaves lose their green color and show water-soaked patches, and the underground root system is damaged by cold and rots. The remedy is to promptly dig up the plant, cut off the underground portion, and cut away the damaged branches and stems. After applying plant ash to the wounds, store it in moist plain sand, and take cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and the entire plant shows diseased spots, the hope of saving it is very slim, and replacing the plant should be considered.
Pest and disease control for lily-of-China
During the growing period, lily-of-China is susceptible to leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale, and other problems.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of lily-of-China, and is prone to occur in humid weather. The lesions initially appear as small brown spots, with a water-soaked, faded-green margin, expanding in concentric rings, round to oval, with brown edges and grayish-white centers. Later, dark brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesions, becoming a dark brown mold layer under humid conditions. The control method for this disease is to promptly remove diseased and dead leaves; both in the early and late stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000x solution).
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of lily-of-China, and in severe cases can spread to the petioles. The lesions initially appear as water-soaked small yellow spots, which after expanding become oval to irregular brown or yellowish-brown, slightly showing concentric rings. Later, the lesions merge into a dry, withered appearance and produce small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly favored by poor ventilation and the presence of scale insect damage. The control method is to strengthen care and apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900x solution, or 70% thiophanate 1500x solution).
(3) Brown soft scale. This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants, and lily-of-China is one of the affected flowers. When brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers in groups on the leaf surface or young leaves, piercing and sucking the plant's sap, while excreting a sticky liquid. Its excrement easily causes sooty mold fungi to multiply in large numbers, turning the stems and leaves black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellowing leaves, and impairing the ornamental effect. In severe infestations, the branches and stems are covered with the insects, causing the plant to turn yellow and wither, affecting growth.
Control methods: ① If there are few affected plants, or the number of insects is small, simply scrape off the insects with a bamboo strip or similar object; ② During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate EC 1000x solution (or 40% omethoate EC 1000x solution), and you can also spray with 5% phosmet EC 1000x solution to kill them.
[Distribution] Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and other places.
[Symptoms] In the early stage of the leaf disease, water-soaked small spots appear on the underside of the leaves. After 2-3 days, the lesions slightly sink, becoming small brown spots the size of a pinhead, round or irregular, and later gradually expand into dark brown or reddish-brown round or irregular lesions with a diameter of 1.5-3.0 mm. The lesions show slight concentric rings, with a faded zone around the edges. Many spots can occur on a single leaf, especially on the older leaves at the lower part, where there are even more spots. The lesions expand and gradually merge together, and the veins and petioles also turn brown, causing most of the leaf to die; the stem symptom is called black rot, where the vascular bundles of the diseased stems and branches turn brown to black. At this point, the leaves on the stems wither, showing angular necrosis symptoms, and subsequently the bacteria infect the pith and cortex, leaving only a few leaf clusters at the tips of the branches, with the entire stem turning black, shrinking, and rotting. When cuttings are affected, they cannot root and slowly rot from the base upward, with the leaves withering and showing angular necrosis.
[Pathogen] The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargoni, of the class Eubacteria, order Eubacteriales, genus Xanthomonas. It is rod-shaped with rounded ends and a single polar flagellum. The optimum temperature for growth and development is 25-27°C, the minimum is 1°C, and the lethal temperature is 51-51.5°C.
[Disease pattern] The bacteria can spread through cuttings, contact, and splashing water droplets, and seeds may carry and spread the bacteria; in moist soil, the bacteria can survive for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, when plants are too dense and growing rapidly, the disease is more severe, and it is more severe on the older leaves at the lower part of the plant; it is more severe in warm, humid conditions; high nitrogen, high phosphorus, and low calcium favor the disease, while high potassium, low phosphorus, and high calcium suppress the symptoms. Different species and varieties of Pelargonium differ in disease resistance. Among Pelargonium varieties, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants in the Geraniaceae family are asymptomatic carriers.
[Control methods]
(1) Horticultural control: Ensure ventilation and light between plants, and avoid excessively high humidity; do not spray water directly onto the plants, to avoid spreading the disease through splashing water droplets; do not select cuttings from diseased plants. Remove all diseased leaves and branches, and avoid contaminating leaves with bacteria-carrying soil. Diseased soil should be treated centrally, and when necessary, sterilize the soil and flowerpots. The bacteria can survive in the soil on propagation beds, so avoid splashing diseased soil onto healthy plants. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture once every 10-15 days for prevention.
(2) Chemical control: Spray with agricultural streptomycin 1000 units, or try 14% copper ammonium complex 300x solution, or 50% xiaojunling 1000x solution.
(3) Thoroughly remove all diseased plants and diseased plant debris. Soak and disinfect flowerpots, planting benches, and tools with 10% bleaching powder solution, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin solution, or replace it with new soil. Use disease-free seedlings.
(4) Before and after the disease occurs, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or (500-1000) x 0.000001 agricultural streptomycin, for several consecutive times.
Medicinal or dietary value of lily-of-China
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhuawang are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health issues, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: Love yourself, and proceed from reality, strictly following medical advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field within your heart.
Medicinal value
Lily-of-China is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, and its rhizome or whole plant is used as medicine. Lily-of-China is also known as Zhan She Jian, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, and Jiu Jie Lian. Lily-of-China has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, and strengthening the heart and promoting urination. Lily-of-China is used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease.
Medicinal name: Lily-of-China
Aliases: Zhan She Jian, Dong Bu Diao Cao, Tie Bian Dan, Jiu Jie Lian.
Meridian tropism: Bitter, slightly sweet, cold. Slightly toxic.
Effects: Clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting urination.
Indications: Used to prevent and treat diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacillary dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease; externally used to treat bruises, venomous snake bites, burns and scalds, mastitis, and boils and swellings.
Usage and dosage: Rhizome 15-25 g; leaves 5-10 g; for external use, an appropriate amount, mashed to extract the juice and applied to the affected area, or mashed and applied to the affected area.
Source: Lily-of-China is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, and its rhizome or whole plant is used as medicine. The rhizome is dug up in autumn, washed, the fibrous roots removed, and used fresh or sliced and dried. The whole plant is used fresh and can be collected in all four seasons.
Source morphology: Perennial evergreen herb. Rhizome short and thick. Leaves basal, broadly strap-shaped, thickly leathery. In spring and summer, a dense spike forms on the scape; the perianth is connate, spherical-bell-shaped, with six lobes that are not very obvious, fleshy, pale yellow or brown; six stamens; ovary spherical, stigma three-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red when ripe. Produced in China and Japan; commonly cultivated in southwestern, central, and eastern China.
The sap of lily-of-China is toxic, with the tissue fluid of the stem generally being the most toxic. Generally, if the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it can cause an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching absentmindedly will make it itch more. Note that lily-of-China includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If taken internally as Chinese medicine, after an overdose, about 1 hour later symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue appear. In more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure occur. In severe cases, the patient becomes restless, has convulsions, coma, and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular contractions, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue methods: For the rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be done: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and complete intravenous drip infusion within 2 hours while closely observing the heart. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine detoxification is as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon 9 g, Schisandra 6 g, decocted twice in water, combined, and taken in 2 doses.
2. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drunk frequently.
3. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decocted in water and taken in 2 doses.
Toxicity
The sap of lily-of-China is toxic, with the tissue fluid of the stem generally being the most toxic. Generally, if the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it can cause an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching absentmindedly will make it itch more. Note that lily-of-China includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If taken internally as Chinese medicine, after an overdose, about 1 hour later symptoms such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision, and fatigue appear. In more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat, and decreased blood pressure occur. In severe cases, the patient becomes restless, has convulsions, coma, and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular contractions, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block, and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue methods: For the rescue methods and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be done: add 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and complete intravenous drip infusion within 2 hours while closely observing the heart. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine detoxification is as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon 9 g, Schisandra 6 g, decocted twice in water, combined, and taken in 2 doses.
2. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decocted in water and taken in 2 doses.
3. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drunk frequently.
Landscape uses of lily-of-China
Because lily-of-China has broad, deep green leaves and round, bright red berries, it is very beautiful and has always been a flower valued for both its foliage and its fruit.
Its elegant and graceful leaf form means it is often placed on the long tables of studies and halls, or beneath long scrolls of calligraphy and painting. In autumn and winter, paired with red berries, it adds even more color.
[Other uses] The rhizome and leaves can be used as medicine; see below for details.
[Brief cultivation history and culture] It has a long history of cultivation in China. Because of its name and fruit color (red), which are considered auspicious, it has through the ages often been used as a symbol of wealth, good fortune, peace, and longevity, and is deeply loved by people.
The Qing dynasty work Hua Jing records: "People use its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house, moving residence, arranging betrothal gifts, managing ponds, or when a child is first born, it is used in all happy events."
The flower language of lily-of-China
The flower language of lily-of-China: health, longevity
Lily-of-China is suitable for accenting living rooms and studies. Decorative uses: small potted young plants can be placed on desks and windowsills for viewing. Medium-sized potted plants can be placed in the corners of living rooms or beside sofas as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. It is renowned for its unique air-purifying ability: it can remove nicotine and formaldehyde. The higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the better it can exert its purifying ability!
The cultural background of lily-of-China
1. Hua Jing: Lily-of-China, also called yun. Broad leaves grow in clusters, deep green, not withering in winter or summer. Many households in the Wu region plant it, using its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house, moving residence, arranging betrothal gifts, or when a child is first born, it is used in all happy events, regarded as an auspicious slogan. As for marriage gifts, even if the living plant is not taken, people will cut and make silk or thin silk in its likeness to substitute for it. It is also placed together with auspicious grass, scallion, and pine in a pot, which is also a conventional practice. Planting method: during the spring and autumn equinoxes, divide and plant in pots, and place in a shaded spot. It is commonly said: the fourteenth day of the fourth month is the birthday of the immortals; the old leaves should be trimmed and thrown onto the main thoroughfare for people to tread on, so that the new leaves will surely grow abundantly. It likes to be mounded with rich soil and watered with cold tea.
2. Gangmu Shiyi: In Zhejiang, weddings often use it to accompany gift boxes, taking its four-season evergreen quality, which has the meaning of everlasting spring. {Note}: The medicinal lily-of-China also includes the same-genus plant golden-edged lily-of-China Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth var. variegata Hort., which is mostly cultivated.
Film-related
"Leon: The Professional", as a film about noir and violence, has received both praise and controversy since its release. Amid the noir and violent subject matter and scenes, this pot of lily-of-China (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen') plays an important role in diluting the violence and making the visuals and even the content harmonious.
It is not hard to see that even as Leon wanders everywhere and lives as a fugitive, he takes this Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' with him, and always likes to put it on the balcony after dawn and bring it back in after dusk. He regards the Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' as his best friend, carefully watering it and wiping the dust from its leaves, which more subtly expresses the other, serious side of Leon as a killer -- not lacking in love. And this better balances the two elements of violence and love.
At the end, the female protagonist Mathilda takes Leon's pot of Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' out of the pot and plants it in a place that looks sunny and warm, where people live in harmony. When Mathilda plants the flower, she does not shed tears, and does not fully express the feeling of losing Leon. She just says to herself, toward Leon's potted plant: I think we'll be okay here... Accompanied by positive emotions, this once again pushes the film to a moving climax.
The role, uses, and feng shui effects of lily-of-China
Lily-of-China can remove harmful substances such as nicotine and formaldehyde. Growing lily-of-China will create a perfect living space for the residential environment. From the perspective of feng shui, growing lily-of-China can make people healthy, energetic, and far from illness, injury, and disaster, and make the family happy and auspicious, with a loving and harmonious couple. To make good use of the feng shui effects of lily-of-China, note that placing it in the bedroom helps the owner establish a feng shui home and is conducive to the development of the couple's relationship. Generally speaking, people born in the Year of the Rabbit and the Year of the Tiger are suitable for growing woody plants, and lily-of-China is the best choice.
Lily-of-China pictures