How to care for flowers and plants in early spring? These key points you need to master
After adjusting through a cold winter, when spring comes, flowers and plants also need to stretch out. But the climate in early spring is very unstable, and late spring cold snaps are relatively common. How can you care for flowers well in early spring?
Chinese rose (detailed introduction)
Pruning and soil replacement:After a year of growth, the nutrients in the soil have been mostly absorbed by the plant, and the nutrients have been exhausted. Even fertilizing and watering can hardly make the potting soil absorb them again, which is not good for the plant's growth the next year. Except for flowers that bloom in early spring, which should have their soil replaced in early winter, the rest should have their soil replaced in early spring. When replacing the soil, the old roots can be pruned appropriately, and half or one third of the old soil should be retained.
Fertilizing:Plants that have just been moved outdoors should not be fertilized immediately. Wait for a period of time, and after the plants gradually adapt to the environment, apply some light fertilizer. Then, as the temperature gradually rises, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer.
Watering:Early spring is the period when plants recover, and the roots have not yet fully recovered their absorption function. Do not water too much; just keep the potting soil moist. You can also spray water on the stems and leaves of the plants. If too much water is given, the roots cannot absorb it in time, and the excess water will accumulate in the soil, causing root rot. As the temperature gradually rises, the amount of watering can be increased.
How to grow Dendrobium at home: how to care for Dendrobium officinale in pots
Dendrobium is not only a medicinal herb, but also a valuable flower and plant, and a rare orchid variety. For most Dendrobium, their value mostly lies in ornamental appreciation, so growing Dendrobium at home is also very worthwhile. And Dendrobium officinale adds even more important medicinal value on top of its ornamental value.
How to grow Dendrobium at home
1. Place the Dendrobium seedlings into the flower pot, then fill the pot with bark and wood shavings. The bark and wood shavings only need to reach the top of the plant's roots; do not bury the roots too deeply.
2. Prepare to water. It is best to use a watering can, and soak all the bark and wood shavings thoroughly, but do not allow water to accumulate in the flower pot. Pay attention to drainage.
3. Fertilizing method: only fertilize twice each year, in early spring and at the end of autumn. The amount of fertilizer is about 10 to 15 granules. Before fertilizing, dilute the fertilizer. Applying fertilizer these two times a year is enough; there is no need for additional fertilizing.
4. If pests or diseases are found, when mild they can be removed manually and directly, but when severe, not only should all affected parts be cut off, but corresponding fungicides and insecticides should also be used for thorough elimination. After cutting off the affected parts, soak the cut edges in clean water for a while, then replant them in the flower pot.
5. When choosing a location for the potted Dendrobium, try to choose a place with sunlight. If it cannot receive full-day sunlight, then make sure it is in the sun for a short period every day. But at noon in summer, proper shading work should be done.
How to care for Dendrobium officinale in pots
Dendrobium officinale likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments, and is not cold-tolerant. The suitable growth temperature is 18-30°C; during the growing period, 16-21°C is more suitable; during the dormant period, 16-18°C; the nighttime temperature is 10-13°C; the best temperature difference is maintained at 10-15°C. Daytime temperatures above 30°C have little effect on growth. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C. Seedlings are prone to freezing below 10°C. It dislikes dryness and fears water accumulation. It relatively likes light. In summer and autumn, 50% shading is suitable, and in winter and spring, 30% shading is suitable. If the light is too strong, the stems will swell and turn yellow, and the leaves will be yellow-green. However, sufficient sunlight leads to good flowering and a large number of flowers. The soil should preferably use well-drained, breathable crushed fern roots, sphagnum moss, charcoal chips, crushed tile pieces, perlite, etc., mainly crushed fern roots and sphagnum moss.
Dendrobium care methods
1. Light: It needs to be placed in a place with relatively sufficient light, but avoid direct sunlight.
2. Temperature: The most suitable temperature for Dendrobium growth is 15-30°C. The maximum should not exceed 35°C, and the minimum should not be lower than 5°C.
3. Water: In high-temperature seasons (May to October), water daily, and each time soak the substrate thoroughly. In other seasons, depends on humidity; wait until the substrate humidity is at 30% to 40% before watering again.
4. Humidity: Dendrobium is suitable for relatively high-humidity environments. The most suitable humidity is 60-75%, and the lower limit of humidity is 30%.
5. Substrate: All potted plants should be provided with prepared substrate. Caregivers must not add sandy soil on their own.
6. Fertilizer: Fertilize according to growth conditions. When the growth of stems and leaves appears weak (color becomes lighter, stems are weak, etc.), nutrient solution needs to be added. The fertilizer-to-water ratio is 1:1000, that is, every 0.5 grams mixed with half a liter of water, then wet the leaf surface; there is no need to wet the substrate.
7. Ventilation: It should be in a well-ventilated environment to ensure the oxygen content in the air.
8. Weeding: Weeds, moss, fungi and other plants in the pot that compete with Dendrobium should be removed.
9. Pest removal: Pay attention to the effects of various insects, mice and other pests and diseases.
Precautions for growing Dendrobium officinale
Dendrobium orchids can be propagated by division or cuttings, while large-scale cultivation uses tissue culture. The choice of soil has already been mentioned above, but these materials need to be soaked in clean water for about 3 days before planting, which can help root growth. For newly potted seedlings, wait until the plants resume normal growth before watering and fertilizing. Generally, do not water within 2-3 days, and do not fertilize within 30 days. According to conventional practice, Dendrobium orchids need repotting every 2-3 years, and the potting soil should also be replaced, because by then the potting soil has become acidic. This can promote future growth and development. If the plant is relatively large, a slightly larger pot is needed, determined according to plant size. Repotting should be carried out after flowering.
When growing Dendrobium at home, if it is kept as a flower and plant, then the focus of care should be on the form and flowering period of the Dendrobium, and the key care points are somewhat similar to those for most orchids. If it is kept as a medicinal herb, then during the growing process more attention should be paid to making the Dendrobium stronger.
No great masters in Sedum
Seeking gods is not as good as seeking yourself, but it is not about seeking and pondering blindly either. The author of the text below, SD Doll, summarized her 6 or 7 years of experience growing succulents (Sedum), from the selection and use of succulent soil, pots, fertilizers and medicines, to her insights on caring for succulents through all four seasons. Every aspect is explained in great detail, very suitable for flower lovers who have just fallen into the pit and those who have fallen in and are still struggling. After reading carefully, you will also agree that there are no great masters in Sedum. Trusting gods completely is worse than having no gods. With this article by author SD Doll, that is enough!
Before starting the main text, I quote a sentence I very much agree with: There are no great masters in Sedum.
Trusting gods completely is worse than having no gods.
Even the succulents of great masters also suffer losses.
Everyone's environmental conditions are different. No one's methods or suggestions should be copied mechanically. Combine them with your own situation and learn them for your own use. Summarizing and generating experience suitable for your own succulents is the best approach.
It has been several years since I fell into the pit. I first came into contact with succulents in 2008 or 2009, but at that time I had no concept of them. That poor rabbit ear struggled on my north balcony for more than a year... and died.
Later, under the guidance of a friend, I formally fell into the big pit of Sedum.
First, let me introduce the basic situation:
Types of succulents grown: Sedum
Geographic location: Shanghai (the south, the free-shipping area, where spring rain is as precious as oil - so precious that in the south it fills up even a 10L bucket...)
Growing environment: enclosed south balcony, south-facing bay window, south-facing open-air unobstructed flower rack.
About the planting soil mix used for growing Sedum
I prefer granular soil. There are two commonly used soil mixes: all-granular, and granular mixed with peat.
All-granular: mainly akadama combined with rainbow stone, diatomite, kanuma, rice husk charcoal (bamboo charcoal).
The volcanic stone, green zeolite, pumice and diatomite in rainbow stone can do a good job of draining water and effectively alleviating the pulverization and clumping of akadama. Rice husk charcoal (bamboo charcoal) has a certain sterilizing effect. Kanuma... well, I just like this name...
Granular mixed with peat: the above all-granular formula plus peat, vermiculite, maifan stone (or the all-granular formula plus fine soil and maifan stone; I generally choose sowing-type fine soil).
Peat contains a large amount of organic matter. While retaining water and fertilizer, it is also loose and breathable (peat's water retention is more reflected in the bottom-watering state, that is, its speed of absorbing water is relatively slow. This is also an important reason why we add vermiculite and granules to peat - to make it easier for the medium to better absorb water under the commonly used top-down watering state rather than overly draining and expelling water). Vermiculite retains water, and maifan stone improves the soil environment.
For mature plants, the ratio of granules to peat is 7:3 or 6:4, with granules as the main component. (Choose 3-6MM granules.)
For small seedlings or leaf cuttings, the ratio of granules to peat is 5:5 or 4:6, with peat as the main component. (Choose 1-2MM granules.)
Insights: Under normal circumstances, the higher the proportion of granules, the slower the plant grows. The soil nutrient content is low, and water retention is relatively weak. It is suitable for balcony growers like me, who do not have much space and do not want the plants to grow rapidly. (Those with itchy hands who love watering, ignore this. As long as they do not die from too much water, they all grow terrifyingly large. No soil mix is of any use! None at all!)
Combined with sufficient sunlight and water control, it is easier to make succulents color up.
It is suitable for the rainy, humid and stuffy south, reducing the pressure of getting through summer.
About the flower pots chosen for growing Sedum
Ceramic pots, porcelain pots, eco-friendly material pots, plastic pots, purple clay pots, root-control pots, with bottom holes or without bottom holes are all acceptable.
Basically, there are only two considerations when choosing which flower pot to use: 1. a pot that matches the plant, 2. a pot that maximizes the number of pots placed (once again feeling sorry for balcony growers; the area available for open-air growing is really precious, and every effort is made to place the largest number of pots in one flower rack).
Insights: For pots with poor breathability, use soil that drains and breathes. For pots with good breathability, use soil that retains water and fertilizer. Pots with bottom holes paired with bottom mesh can effectively prevent soil leakage and block part of pest damage. Pots without bottom holes must be lined with bottom stones to alleviate water accumulation when watering mistakes occur.
Except for very small pots, try to use bottom stones.
For tall pots, it is recommended to definitely line them with bottom stones.
Beginners and open-air unobstructed growing environments should try to avoid using pots without bottom holes.
About the fertilizers and medicines used for Sedum
Fertilizer: granular fertilizer, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer, powder fertilizer. There is nothing particularly special about this; as long as it is fertilizer for succulents, it is fine.
Succulents are still quite different from other plants, so do not only consider the amount of nutrients and use unsuitable fertilizer. The consequences of random fertilizing range from pest infestation and soil spoilage in mild cases to plant death in severe cases. Homemade fertilizer is not suitable for lazy people like me, so I have no right to speak on it at all.
Medicine: For pest control, I alternate between liquid types and soil-buried types. For sterilization, use carbendazim, chlorothalonil and the like...
Liquid types are used for watering and spraying, generally applied multiple times between March and April.
Soil-buried types are used for burying in pots of open-air grown succulents, when newly potting or once every half a year (this type of soil-mixed insecticide should be avoided in enclosed and indoor environments.)
Carbendazim and chlorothalonil are used alternately, mostly for soaking newly acquired plants and dry-brushing fresh cuts and wounds on plants.
Liquid fungicides are suitable for spraying with a spray bottle.
Insights: Succulents do not have a very high demand for fertilizer. Fertilizing should be done in spring and autumn. It should be noted that when using liquid fertilizer - when fertilizing in spring, pest prevention work should also be done at the same time; fertilizing and applying medicine can be done alternately. For plants that are cut off from water in summer, deeply water-controlled or dormant, autumn fertilizing should begin after normal watering has resumed two to three times. Granular fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer, powder fertilizer, etc. can be mixed into the soil or shallowly buried in the potting soil when repotting in spring and autumn.
When fertilizing, keep in mind the principle of light fertilizer and frequent application; better less than more.
As for applying medicine, prevention is always more effective than treatment. Pest prevention in spring is very important. For fungal prevention, I personally feel that ventilation and dryness are the most effective. (For insect-killing medicine, I will not mention specific brands. Anyway, there are only these few kinds going back and forth, and everyone uses roughly the same ones. Personally, I suggest using soil-buried types as little as possible, and if they must be used, choose relatively low-toxicity and highly safe ones.)
About the four seasons of Sedum
Spring: Keywords - growing period, high-incidence period for pests, fading. Sedum is prone to sunburn
In spring, all things grow, and Sedum also enters a full-speed growth period. The water and chlorophyll needed to enter the growth period also make Sedum begin to fade from its brilliant colors.
At the same time, the suitable temperature makes pests that have been dormant all winter start to stir.
Spring in Shanghai is mostly abundant in rain, and succulents grow pleasingly. But it should be noted that giving plants more water in spring does not mean giving it without restraint.
You cannot blindly pursue making succulents large. Excessive water causing weak, spindly growth will directly affect their ability to get through summer. The degree of appropriately increasing water depends on each person's environment and other differences, and needs to be explored by oneself.
Every year from March to April is an important period for pest prevention. During these two months, use liquid types to water the potting soil once a week and spray the plants once every two weeks.
If using soil-buried type pesticides,
1. Bury them in the soil when repotting in spring.
2. Dig a hole directly along the pot wall and bury them in.
3. Sprinkle them on the soil surface. (Not very recommended, because the smell is strong and it affects the effectiveness of the insecticide.)
Special note: The environment for applying all pesticides must be ventilated. Use soil-buried pesticides as little as possible.
Do not use soil-buried pesticides in indoor growing environments.
For down-to-earth growing environments (literally meaning those placed on the ground and in contact with the ground and soil) and ground-floor growing environments, pesticide burying can be done once every half a year (spring and autumn).
The coloring and fading of succulents are not determined by a single factor. Sunlight duration, day-night temperature difference, humidity and moisture, season, overall environment and other conditions all have a combined effect.
Plants in full state grow relatively slowly, because the chlorophyll needed for plant growth is not enough. Most succulents fading some color in spring is also to better welcome the arrival of the growing period.
As for sunburn, in the south it begins to occur every year starting in April.
The general causes are as follows:
1. A sudden change in the succulent growing environment.
2. Plants that have not gone through the recovery period.
3. Seedlings and weak, small, delicate plants.
4. Plants with water on the leaf surface.
Many people move succulents indoors in winter, and then when spring comes (especially during April and May) directly move them into a fully open-air growing state. For succulents that have been grown indoors for a period of time, open-air growing needs to be done gradually. Starting in March, on days with suitable temperatures, the plants can be moved outdoors, but attention must be paid to early spring sudden cold that may freeze the plant roots. When the temperature drops or after thorough watering, move the plants back indoors at night or take corresponding protective measures. Use March as a transition to gradually complete the open-air growing process. Starting in April, prepare shading materials so they can be used at any time, and pay attention to temperature changes.
Plants in the rooting and root-recovery period should be placed in a ventilated place with scattered light. Those rooting should not have their environment changed before the roots have firmly grasped the soil. Those recovering roots can gradually be moved to open-air growing after the plants have clearly resumed growth.
Succulent seedlings and weak, small, delicate plants are not recommended for open-air growing.
High temperatures combined with strong sunlight will cause sunburn and scorching in succulents with water on the leaf surface.
Starting in April, for growing environments with more than six hours of sunlight, attention should be paid to appropriate shading when the temperature reaches around 28 degrees.
Summer: Keywords - dormancy, watering, ventilation, black rot, leggy growth, shading.
Summer in Shanghai is marked by the plum rain season in mid-June, entering a mode of harsh survival environment.
Succulent varieties that go dormant in summer generally begin to enter dormancy in June. Plants in the dormant period should be placed indoors in a ventilated place with scattered light or outdoors in a shaded place.
For plants in complete dormancy, water once a month. It should be noted that this watering is different from normal watering. It is recommended to place the flower pot into water with a water level lower than half the height of the pot and soak for about five seconds. Do not water thoroughly; only a slightly moist soil environment is needed. For semi-dormant plants, because each person's growing environment is different, observe the plant's condition yourself and then choose the watering interval (usually once every two weeks or three weeks). Still use the method of placing the flower pot into water with a water level lower than half the height of the pot. The soaking time can be slightly longer than for fully dormant plants but should not be too long.
Generally, four or five days before Shanghai enters the plum rain season, I will give the succulents one thorough watering (avoiding extreme weather). After three or four days of outdoor ventilation, I move them into the enclosed balcony (if the open-air growing environment can block rainwater, they can continue to be grown in the open air. Because my open-air growing area is basically unobstructed, I move them indoors during the plum rain season). After that, throughout the entire plum rain season, the plants are not watered, and windows are opened for ventilation for several hours every day. If during the plum rain season the temperature is concentrated between 27 and 30 degrees, the extreme temperature does not exceed 32 degrees, and it does not last for more than two days, established plants placed outdoors in places with relatively little rain can also safely get through the rainy season (not recommended for those whose own growing period is less than one year, delicate varieties, plants in a full-pot state, or those that have not experienced summer).
For watering after the rainy season, especially for plants that have grown full in the pot, I always suggest watering from the bottom, but never soak the pot for a long time. Better insufficient than excessive. The standard is that after watering, the soil surface always remains dry. After watering, avoid water accumulation at the bottom of the pot. For particularly non-breathable pots, elevate the bottom of the pot so that the drainage holes do not touch the ground.
Throughout summer, watering should be done in the evening. Better dry than wet is the key to reducing casualties. Of course, going beyond the proper limit is as bad as falling short. If you dry it into jerky, that is still okay; if you dry it into withered deadwood, then there is no cure.
The importance of ventilation is especially prominent in summer. Previously, I saw someone on a forum confuse soil breathability with environmental ventilation. This is a misunderstanding.
Soil breathability is mostly shown in good drainage and a reasonable loose-dense structure. Smooth water flow drives oxygen in the soil. A reasonable loose-dense structure ensures the growth of the plant's root system and is not likely to form hardened clumps of soil that affect the roots or accumulate too much water and affect root respiration. Ventilation refers to flowing air. Whether in an open environment or an enclosed environment, flowing air more easily evaporates water and lowers temperature.
But it should be pointed out that when the temperature is too high (outdoors continuously exceeding 35 degrees), the air humidity is too high, or sunlight is sufficient with no shading, under these conditions a fan in an enclosed environment is basically useless.
The plum rain season is also a high-incidence period for black rot in Shanghai succulents. Black rot basically has no significance or value for treatment. It can only be about rescuing as much as possible: leaves, small heads, side buds.
High temperature and high humidity, enclosed environments, and wounds on plants are all important triggers for black rot, but sometimes black rot appears for no reason at all, in any season, at any time, and in any variety.
The significance of preventing black rot is far greater than treatment. Especially in summer, keeping the leaf surface dry, ventilating the environment, keeping the soil breathable, avoiding new wounds on plants, and promptly handling wounds once they appear (recommended to dry-brush sterilizing medicinal powder on plant wounds to avoid moisture causing the wounds to rot) can relatively effectively prevent black rot.
Leggy growth in summer is basically unavoidable. Aside from some varieties that just love to grow leggy, water control and appropriate sunlight can reduce leggy growth.
If the growing environment cannot get sun between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m., a shade net does not need to be installed (my home is like this, so I do not pull a shade net; of course, it is also because I am lazy...). If it can get sun during this period, then if you say your succulents have survived it year after year, you can also skip shading. Otherwise, just honestly install a shade net.
Dormant plants and plants cut off from water should be moved to a cool place to get through summer. Seedlings can be exposed to the sun in the early morning, but be cautious after 9 a.m.
Autumn: Keywords - gradual watering, preventing sunburn, recovery and awakening, applying medicine and fertilizer.
Autumn in Shanghai has what we commonly call the "autumn tiger", with scorching sun accompanied by high temperatures.
Succulents that have just gotten through summer are mostly relatively weak. Careless autumn care can easily cause them to fail to survive. Sometimes there is no damage in summer, but a whole batch dies in autumn.
For succulents that were cut off from water in summer, heavily water-restricted, or dormant, do not give water in a binge-like fashion when autumn arrives; do it in a slow, sipping manner. Give the succulent a process of adaptation. For the first two waterings, focus on giving the roots a moist environment, mainly to stimulate the growth of fine hair roots. Once the plant's roots have the conditions to absorb water, then give a heavy watering. Otherwise, the withered root system will be smothered by the heavy watering and the plant will die.
In early autumn, sun protection is still the key point. As the sunshine duration increases (we generally keep succulents in a south-facing position; under normal circumstances, the south side has the shortest sunshine duration in summer, slightly longer in spring and autumn, and the longest in winter), pay attention to shading from noon to afternoon. If the plant spent the summer indoors, refer to the spring method of gradually transitioning to outdoor cultivation and restore outdoor cultivation step by step. Never suddenly change the environment.
In autumn, applying medication, fertilizing, repotting, and changing soil should all be done after the plant has recovered from its summer state, generally from late September to late October. For the process, refer to the spring methods of applying medication and fertilizing.
Usually, Shanghai enters the cool solar terms from mid-to-late October. At this time, most dormant plants begin to wake up, and most succulents begin to resume normal growth. From then on, for succulents, the hardest season in the south has officially passed (June to September). Build up your strength and get ready to welcome the most beautiful winter.
Winter: keywords - condition, frost protection, sunshine
In Shanghai's winter, subzero temperatures rarely occur, and succulents rarely enter complete dormancy (though it may be more common in Sempervivum).
But because the temperature is low, although they do not go dormant, they will not grow rapidly either, and their demand for water is not great. On clear days, the temperature difference between day and night will be relatively large,
so under conditions of sufficient sunshine, most varieties will color up very well, which is what we call condition.
Overall, winter care in Shanghai is relatively simple. If grown indoors, there is no problem of low temperatures. For outdoor cultivation, it is generally recommended to stop watering below three degrees to prevent the plant from freezing at night.
Watering is best done on sunny mornings. In growing environments with strong wind, pay attention to frost protection at night and during the day below five degrees.
The basic situation across the four seasons is all here. Five key points:
One, environmental transitions should be gradual.
Two, succulents' demand for water is high in spring and autumn and low in summer and winter.
Three, prevention and control of pests and diseases is more important than treatment.
Four, environmental ventilation and soil breathability are very important.
Five, in spring and autumn you can water in the morning or evening, in summer water in the evening, and in winter water from morning to noon. Stop watering when the temperature is above 35 degrees or below three degrees.
The coloring and fading process of Tiya
About aerial roots on succulents
There are roughly three situations in which succulents grow aerial roots:
1. The roots below are smothered and cannot emerge, so in order to survive the succulent must find another place to grow roots.
2. Part of the stem is too long and not strong or developed enough, so it does not transport nutrients adequately. This can also cause that part of the stem to produce roots in search of more nutrients. (This is more commonly seen on old stems)
3. Air humidity is too high, and the plant has excess energy; since it is idle anyway, it grows a few aerial roots for fun.
In summary, whether the appearance of aerial roots is good or bad cannot be generalized.
There are also some varieties that are simply prone to producing aerial roots; it is neither good nor bad.
About top dressing:
For top dressing I like diatomite. First, the color is quite nice; second, it has a certain weight, so it is not easy for the soil under the top dressing to float up after a ladle of water is poured on. If grown outdoors, it is also not easily blown away by the wind (though I do not know about the imperial capital).
For top dressing, try to choose a size of 3-6MM or above, for the same reason as above.
The diatomite we use does not have insecticidal effects. But its texture is harder than akadama soil and kanuma soil, and it is very good both for top dressing and for mixing into soil.
About the suitable season for buying succulents
Autumn, autumn, autumn! Important things must be said three times!
Especially for those just starting out.
Shanghai's spring is very short. So short that the succulents you buy have not even passed the acclimation period before they must face summer.
Passing the acclimation period is not simply about growing roots. When a plant changes environment, it suffers damage itself (beheading, root trimming, removal from soil, and transport all cause more or less damage to the plant). Repair and adaptation are both processes that require time.
Only strong plants can properly resist harsh climates and invading pathogens.
Succulents bought in autumn go through autumn, winter, and spring before entering summer, which undoubtedly allows the plant's condition to be adjusted to its best. Therefore, the summer survival rate of succulents bought in autumn is often far higher than that of those bought in spring.
As for the brave warriors who risk death to eat pufferfish and choose to buy succulents in summer, I can only express my blessings.
Those who are not short of money, ignore me.
The fattening up of a skinny bear
About beheaded succulents (rootless) and rooted ones
I actually quite like buying beheaded ones; they are clean and easy to manage.
In fact, for most varieties, there is not much difference between beheaded and rooted, unless they are sent with soil. Otherwise, those roots removed from soil are of little significance by the time they reach you.
Lignified stems root relatively slowly.
Variegated ones root slowly (actually they are slow at everything)
There is no special trick to rooting (I do not know about dry northern regions). The key is that you must not keep turning it over, and do not take it into direct sunlight. The cut must be dried thoroughly. Pot it in moist soil and give water after ten days, keeping the soil slightly moist. That is all. It will always grow roots.
Rooted ones are just planted the same way.
If you have itchy hands, nothing will work, all right?
The growth of red-and-white frost
About expensive goods and ordinary goods
One sentence: an ordinary plant in condition will always look better than an expensive plant not in condition.
About succulent varieties
Use your eyes, not your ears.
Just because the color is different does not necessarily mean it is not the same variety.
Just because the shape is different does not necessarily mean it is not the same variety.
When new varieties hit the market, look more and buy less. There are too many pits, you know?
Of course, within what you can afford, if you simply like it, then buy, buy, buy!
About the condition of succulents
For Shanghai, some varieties really are not beautiful for long in a year.
If you love its peak condition, you must also accept its normal state.
Some newly purchased succulents will not show their condition in the first year, so be patient.
Some succulent varieties must be grown outdoors to show their condition, such as the pot-edge cover grass series, and Tiya, etc.
If you grow succulents on a bay window or enclosed balcony, use full grit and strict water control for mature plants. Under sufficient sunshine, the condition can still be quite good.
Aeoniums and roses are still quite suitable for bay window growers. The Huayueye line is also a good choice.
Of course, no matter what, the ones that show the best condition are still grown outdoors...
Some people say that growing flowers and plants is a lonely matter.
I think the loneliness mentioned here refers more to being able to endure waiting and withstand time.
Sow a patch of seeds, plant a seedling, look forward to a leaf, and wait for them to slowly break through the soil, sprout, and take root.
And when they repay our watering with blooming beauty, perhaps it is already several years, more than ten years, or several decades later.
Therefore, those who grow flowers should have a heart that can be still, so that they can keep this waiting.
There is a saying that is very suitable for the current booming situation of succulents:
Love a little more lightly so you can love it a little longer.
How many people plunge into the succulent pit with great fanfare and grandeur, only to quietly withdraw after the first summer arrives?
A hobby should be a long-term thing. No hurry, let us take it slowly.
If you like something, you should get to know it, not merely possess it.
Let us encourage each other.