How to propagate Pachystachys lutea? Master these propagation key points

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

The leaves of Pachystachys lutea are bold and neat in shape. Although a mature plant can reach 2 m tall, some friends still like to make Pachystachys lutea into a large potted plant and place it in the hall to improve the environment. In summer, Pachystachys lutea produces yellow flowers at the top, which are also very beautiful

Pachystachys lutea

Pachystachys lutea can be propagated by cuttings or division, among which cutting propagation is the most commonly used. Division propagation can be carried out together with repotting in spring. Cutting propagation can be carried out in early spring or autumn when the temperature is 25-30°C. When taking cuttings, choose healthy branches, cut them 4-5 nodes long, remove the lower leaves and 1/3-1/2 of the upper leaves, and insert them into river sand or vermiculite. After insertion, maintain high air humidity; roots can form in about 20 days after insertion.

How to grow Pachystachys lutea: key points for propagating Pachystachys lutea

Pachystachys lutea is an excellent foliage plant. Its young leaves have golden-yellow veins, and in summer it also produces yellow flowers. It is excellent for decorating the living room as a potted plant. So how do you grow Pachystachys lutea? What about its propagation methods? Let's learn about it together.

I. How to grow Pachystachys lutea

1. Soil: The quality of Pachystachys lutea growth is greatly related to the choice of potting soil. In order to ensure that the purchased Pachystachys lutea can grow healthily, Pachystachys lutea can be potted in a substrate made by mixing equal amounts of garden soil, peat soil, and river sand, then adding a small amount of base fertilizer.

2. Light: Pachystachys lutea is a foliage plant and likes light. Only with sufficient light will the leaves be bright and glossy. When growing Pachystachys lutea, if the light is too weak, it is easy to cause internode elongation and dull, lusterless leaves; if the light is too strong, it may scorch the leaves. In summer cultivation, pay attention to appropriate shading.

3. Water and fertilizer: During the growing season of Pachystachys lutea, water more and maintain relatively high air humidity. Applying liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month can make Pachystachys lutea have large leaves and vivid color. When fertilizing, phosphorus fertilizer should be the main type, with less nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the leaf veins will fade and affect the beauty of Pachystachys lutea. In winter, fertilization of Pachystachys lutea should be stopped and watering frequency reduced, otherwise Pachystachys lutea is prone to root rot.

4. Pruning: In order to keep the plant shape of Pachystachys lutea beautiful, it must be pruned or pinched regularly to control plant height and promote side branch growth, making the branches and leaves lush.

5. Pests and diseases: During the cultivation of Pachystachys lutea, it is easily harmed by scale insects. If found, wash the leaf surface with water immediately and remove the diseased leaves in time. In severe cases, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution.

II. Key points for propagating Pachystachys lutea

The above isHow to grow Pachystachys luteaandHow to propagate Pachystachys luteaintroduction. Pachystachys lutea likes a high-temperature and humid environment. During cultivation, do not let direct sunlight hit it.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower Planting Manual (February volume)

Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protective facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do a good job of preparatory work for cutting, grafting seedling propagation, and sowing seedling propagation for some flower species.

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Sinningia speciosa, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, Centaurea cyanus, Gaillardia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Petunia, Eschscholzia californica, Phlox drummondii, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, Antirrhinum majus, Tropaeolum majus, Viola tricolor, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand storage, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron chinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Trachycarpus fortunei, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Syringa oblata, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by outdoor cuttings in February or by cuttings with plastic film added for moisture retention include: Prunus mume (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches from cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum monogynum, Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, and Lespedeza bicolor, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa oblata and Campsis grandiflora can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, Deutzia scabra, Hydrangea macrophylla, Tamarix chinensis, Platanus orientalis, Vitis vinifera, Ficus carica, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Crassula arborescens, Echeveria, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Begonia elatior, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera octophylla, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old sturdy black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus parviflora, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old apricot or wild peach seedlings as rootstock and use cleft grafting to propagate Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, Prunus mume, Prunus persica, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica 'Ziye', etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate excellent Chimonanthus praecox cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti'. Using bagging and inflated moisture-retention measures gives a relatively high survival rate. Use sturdy branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock scions, and use cleft grafting or split grafting for scions of excellent rose cultivars. Adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum monogynum, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Michelia, etc.

5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris tectorum, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Sparaxis, Bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Chlorophytum species, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Canna indica, Maranta arundinacea, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Aloe vera, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Ardisia crenata, and Solanum pseudocapsicum can be collected. After treatment, carry out sand storage for germination. Sow only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia miniata plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia miniata seeds with relatively good genetic quality.

In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether there is mold on the seeds. If mold occurs, clean them in time; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seed emergence rate. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown by dibbling, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus species, Antirrhinum majus, Alcea rosea, Ilex variegata, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, etc.

In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be planted out. Among the deciduous types are Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume (carried out before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, Prunus serrulata, Chaenomeles sinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Tilia tuan, Liriodendron chinense, Prunus persica, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triadica, Deutzia scabra, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum monogynum, Salix babylonica, Salix matsudana f. umbraculifera, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, Diospyros kaki, Prunus armeniaca, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Symplocos, Machilus pingii, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus fragrans, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis, Pinus thunbergii, etc., when planted, should be given moderate pruning.

1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (in-tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants consume a relatively large amount of nutrients in the body, and the resistance of the plants greatly declines. Continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue heating and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue hanging straw curtains; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, do not take it lightly.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protective facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For the small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept in homes, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium podophyllum, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, and Dieffenbachia, on especially cold days, cover them with plastic bags at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on heating appliances such as a "bath heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

2. Watering. In February, due to relatively low temperatures, for most potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water on the leaves and mist the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrink and wrinkle and flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc. may all show bud drop and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page] For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina domestica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, Citrus limon, Ardisia crenata, Citrus microcarpa, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for Paeonia suffruticosa, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased Cymbidium hybridum cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often appear shrunken and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

Although most potted flowers need little water in February, inspection should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done in time. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate leaf spraying should also be given around noon on clear days to prevent leaf shrinkage and shedding afterward and to avoid affecting spring recovery growth.

3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanout, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Cyclamen, Rhododendron hybridum, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Prunus mume, Narcissus, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa, Schlumbergera truncata, Epiphyllum, Vriesea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia miniata, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, heavy renewal pruning can be carried out. For flowered branches, except for retaining only 2 to 3 buds at the base, all the rest should be cut off, prompting them to produce many new shoots in the current year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly shaped by pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Ehretia microphylla, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Serissa japonica, Juniperus rigida, Juniperus chinensis, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting most potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant is about to end winter dormancy, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum nitidum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia hybrida, Begonia maculata, Begonia cucullata, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia miniata, Haworthia, Aloe vera, Schlumbergera truncata, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula arborescens, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera octophylla, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera carnea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta arundinacea, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica, etc.

6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on Primula malacoides leaves, at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are enough.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Rhododendron hybridum in plastic tunnels, stop foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' and Fortunella margarita), when there are few insects, brush them off with a brush; when there are many insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as Coccus hesperidum, Pseudaulacaspis pentagona, Lepidosaphes ulmi, and Chrysomphalus aonidum appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, brush them off with a hard brush, or use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to kill the insects, or spray with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or bury and apply 3% carbofuran or 20% isoprocarb granules in the flower pot for control.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc. After about 2 months, spread it out to dry in the sun. After fully drying, package it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flower pots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and dig garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, ditches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Sabina procumbens, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, Prunus mume, Corylopsis sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, then replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and disintegrating, causing undue losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March volume)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the spacing from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have relatively high requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Viburnum macrocephalum, Diospyros kaki, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, Prunus mume, Rosa chinensis, Ficus carica, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, Paeonia suffruticosa, Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, Prunus serrulata, Vitis vinifera, Prunus persica, Nandina domestica, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Phoenix canariensis, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and humid conditions, such as Trachycarpus fortunei, Photinia, Aucuba japonica, Ligustrum japonicum, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, Bambusa multiplex, etc. No matter how the light and moisture in your courtyard are, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting to the environment; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many. A small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that can cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, so that greening and beautification effects can be obtained earlier, such as Ginkgo biloba, Abies firma, Osmanthus fragrans, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some empty ground for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, Antirrhinum majus, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Alcea rosea, Impatiens balsamina, Lupinus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, Zephyranthes candida, Dahlia pinnata, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, Iris tectorum, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

2. Potted flower species

There are many types of flowers suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower types requiring relatively meticulous management, such as Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Chimonanthus praecox, Rhododendron hybridum, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Roystonea regia, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, Bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (Dragon and Phoenix Wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as Peace Tree), Zantedeschia aethiopica, Primula malacoides, Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium andraeanum, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Begonia elatior, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Tulipa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Calceolaria, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Hyophorbe lagenicaulis, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can plant and grow some types with relatively extensive management requirements, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, Chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Cactaceae, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Schefflera octophylla, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Pyracantha, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron pulchrum, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Liriodendron chinense. The latter five species all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sowing is done after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand storage and germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus chinensis, Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Punica granatum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens balsamina, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Capsicum annuum, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant types should be sown under plastic tunnel covers.

2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum monogynum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Ficus carica, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora 'Ogosho', Pinus parviflora, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate Michelia and Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica, Prunus persica 'Ziye', etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion shoots of excellent Chimonanthus praecox cultivars, carry out cleft grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, and the survival rate is relatively high; using Hylocereus trigonus as rootstock, graft to propagate Schlumbergera truncata and various Echinopsis types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, Prunus serrulata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum macrocephalum, Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: Cymbidium species, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria trifasciata, Oxalis triangularis, Canna indica, Alpinia zerumbet, Dahlia pinnata, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flower and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus persica, Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea, Prunus serrulata, etc. is acceptable even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, carry a good and sufficient soil ball. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page] (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest- and disease-infested branches, and excessively vigorous flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through heavy renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that spoil the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some thin and weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light transmission.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, cut them off in time and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees prone to pests and diseases, such as Rosa chinensis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Vitis vinifera, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture in time after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower types that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, Antirrhinum majus, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Malva, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes carinata, Iris tectorum, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Pinus parviflora, Nandina domestica, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Rhododendron hybridum, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, Citrus limon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Clivia miniata, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta arundinacea, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal importance. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March it is still necessary to continue cold protection and heat preservation work. In late March, doors and windows of rooms can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding effects on growth and normal flowering in the current year due to too-early sprouting. For potted flowers in areas north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be taken lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and Begonia species, combine repotting with necessary pruning, including cutting off pest- and disease-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, thin and weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting, to further improve their shaping. For Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Prunus persica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, etc., heavy renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant types. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains relatively large amounts of sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration consuming water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, Cactaceae (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula lycopodioides, Echinocactus grusonii, Cereus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus flagelliformis, Euphorbia tirucalli), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, Jasminum nudiflorum, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema modestum, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower types that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potting (especially high-rise balcony potting), such as Punica granatum, Rosa chinensis, Ficus microcarpa, Yucca, Ligustrum sinense, Agave americana, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma racemosum, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Juniperus rigida, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Vitex negundo var. cannabifolia, Euonymus pendulus, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Pinus parviflora, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus limon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Camellia japonica, Schefflera octophylla, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as balcony potted plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, Capsicum annuum, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Tagetes erecta, Impatiens balsamina, Petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia miniata seeds has been collected, wash them clean, sow them indoors first, and after the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Euphorbia tirucalli, Crassula lycopodioides, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting substrate, and at an indoor windowsill with relatively good light, propagate by cuttings Gardenia jasminoides, Fuchsia hybrida, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth must be covered well with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant types suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it is easy to cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection.

2. Pruning. For stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum sinense, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For Prunus mume, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote maintaining a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases, and destroy them; for dry and withered cut surfaces on stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for anti-decay treatment.

3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board placed on top (precast reinforced concrete), using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as Cymbidium species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

In March, while potted flowers have not yet been moved out, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers and choose support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shading measures can be quickly put in place.

In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April volume)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises significantly. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the harm of snow and frost. By after Guyu, the late frost period has ended in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai Rivers, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases significantly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. From south to north in April, flower tasks include the following:

I. Flower propagation

1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome hassleriana, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens balsamina, Ipomoea, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit pennata, Nicotiana tabacum, Petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum, Zinnia elegans, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Abutilon, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia martini, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron tulipifera, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; can be sown in April

Other greening flowers and trees include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix), crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, Huangshan luan, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, ormosia, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, white spirea, wolfberry, nandina, Ardisia crenata, palms, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as they are collected in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Fatsia japonica, and nipplefruit. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its already blackened, whitish, softened fruits picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, and then sown on fertile seedling beds; the seeds can also first be stratified in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, the grass covering must be removed promptly and a shade frame built; for cultivating nipplefruit, the golden-yellow fruits can be peeled, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge; when the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit viewing or field-planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

2. Grafting

Flowering trees that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered bristly locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, Aspidistra, ferns, Rhapis, spider plant, agave, silver-king Japanese evergreen, Japanese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, maranta family, aloe, peperomia family, Monstera deliciosa, bird's nest fern, etc. [text corrupted] Also among those that can be divided are: daylily, five-colored plum, hibiscus, pineapple sage, purple dew plant, cattail, coreopsis, sago palm, arrowhead, ginger lily, canna, taro, etc.; those that can be divided include: geranium, iris, spider lily, beautyberry, hibiscus, petunia, zinnia, aster, etc. In addition, water hyacinth and water lettuce can also be divided at this time.

4. Cuttage

For most easy-to-root flowering tree species, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttage in April. The main species include: boxwood family, mahonia family, nandina, cypress family, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, tulip tree, snow spray, winter daphne, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is broken away and the root system not excessively pruned, repotting can be carried out in April. But it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowering trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

2. April is the best time for transplanting open-ground flowering trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowering trees such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, Michelia species, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous flowering trees, it is best to transplant before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple family, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc.; generally the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree, so that under the condition of not destroying the soil ball, the transplanted tree can be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, Cuibai juniper, Serissa, water poplar, true juniper, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flowering cypress, banyan, box-leaved holly, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, winter daphne, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red bark tree, Chinese fringe tree, trident maple, oak, fragrant olive, golden bullet tree, hall crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, horned holly, golden larch, tiger thorn, etc.

As the bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, guiding, and correction so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the maintenance of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, timely bud removal; when the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove the male and female cones; when the needle-leaf bundle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on the new shoots, promptly remove all the female cones growing at the tips of the new shoots and the male cones located at the bases of the new shoots, to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering; from the start of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that the newly produced needles are short and clustered, keeping the branch pads flat and in good condition.

IV. Fertilization Management

1. Fertilization

For potted Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, Forsythia suspensa, winter daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered Cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after the warm spring, a nitrogen-based fertilizer should be applied as a top dressing, such as well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth; for rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, white orchid, and other potted flowers about to bloom, top dressing should likewise be given, which can be monopotassium phosphate etc., with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For field-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, Michelia species, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, top dressing should also be applied in time to meet the needs of their vegetative growth.

2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting; the money tree has extremely strong vitality, and even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Disease Prevention

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to disease, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

4. Management of Fruit-viewing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowering trees that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, hall crabapple, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and the opportunity must not be missed.

5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water and mist management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for their healing and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Weather characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, rainfall gradually increases from south to north across our country, and after each rainfall the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain; after the Lesser Fullness spring rain ends, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for planting and cultivating flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees that can be sown as they are collected in May mainly include: four-season primrose, Fatsia japonica, broad-leaved mahonia, loquat, etc. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor overly dry; second, the sowing bed should be covered with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in bed moisture that cause seeds to "regress"; third, after emergence, remove the grass covering in several stages and promptly build a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, ripe blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them and to keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

2. Cuttage

Flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia family, sulfur cosmos, rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, Arabian jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush, trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, gem flower, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia biondii, Chaenomeles speciosa, umbrella plant, lantana, red-backed excoecaria, shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, clerodendrum, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander family, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha-belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia seedling or cutting plants for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid and Michelia; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedling plants for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, straw-cloak maple, etc.; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Rhododendron pulchrum cutting plants for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine rose varieties; use Huanghao as rootstock for grafting to propagate fine chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for softwood grafting of fine wintersweet varieties, and potted rootstock can also be used for cleft grafting. In addition, cactus and three-ribbed arrow can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

4. Layering

Flowering trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, Aglaia, Western azalea, camellia, croton, Michelia, red maple, etc.; flowering trees that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

1. Potting

For potted flowers used for National Day street decoration, the vast majority of species must be potted and planted in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, by the end of September and early October they can bloom on schedule, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when white magnolia has finished flowering and just before budding and leafing out, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower Management

1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. Besides noting the combination of root watering and foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, Rhododendron simsii, gardenia, winter daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple family, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage plants include: sago palm, bird's nest fern, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, Syngonium, maranta, bromeliad family, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-viewing plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc.

2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For the shortening pruning of white orchid shortly after being moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries downward. For this reason, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and must not be too close to the bud eye. For potted rose pruning after flowering, the height should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For the bud removal of potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal; generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud, otherwise the wound will dry and shrink, affecting downward the selected leaf bud. For roses potted in the current year, the terminal buds should be removed promptly to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis, maranta, bird's nest fern, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink taro, fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, azalea, bird of paradise, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, water poplar, oak, Serissa, black pine, soft pine, etc., require full light; while podocarpus, tiger thorn, red bark tree, Cuibai juniper, five-needle pine, etc., can be appropriately shaded.

4. Fertilization

For Camellia japonica, azalea, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, rose, winter daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc.: after flowering, remove the faded flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as a supplement, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for producing new flower buds; for foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, bird's nest fern, Aspidistra, ferns, etc., apply a well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer liquid once every half month; for foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, multicolored bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white-butterfly Syngonium, pink taro, etc., a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar top dressing, making their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

5. Pest and Disease Control

For rose, wild rose, rugosa rose, etc., attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot; for leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them; for common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc.??? citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, Serissa, Cuibai juniper, water poplar, fragrant olive, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that styling must be done carefully and cautiously, trying not to damage the bark and core of the branches, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

Weather characteristics of June: by June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season; this year plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall of the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that go dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for the vast majority of bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful, to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or rampant growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts styling or affects the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing

Flowering trees that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the fruiting mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white; at this point, open furrows and sow; the soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after the cotyledons of most seeds emerge, remove the covering in 2 to 3 stages and promptly build a shade frame.

2. Cuttage

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cuttage propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttage in summer. One category is species that are not easy to root or root slowly with hardwood cuttage, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, horned holly, holly, lilac, purple magnolia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood family, rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, trumpet creeper, red-backed excoecaria, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, Ardisia crenata, winter daphne, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, Weigela, snowball viburnum, peach-leaf aucuba family, Schefflera family, mahonia family, Fatsia japonica, snow spray, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ivy family, nasturtium, cuphea, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia family, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttage of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cuttage time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the softwood of osmanthus and camellia is semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip, with the lower cut dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution for 10 seconds, then inserted into the seedling bed after brief drying; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with plant-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the bed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft fine wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, Michelia, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate fine rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedling plants of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf cherry, plum blossom, elm-leaf plum, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. Branch grafting: use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and Camellia sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

4. Layering

Flowering trees that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, Viburnum macrocephalum, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

5. Division

Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed Japanese evergreen, bromeliad family, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, acorus family, golden-edge liriope, etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting

1. Seed Collection

Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow as collected), etc.

Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring before sowing, without affecting their germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown as collected, or their seeds stratified in sand until they crack and germinate, then sown in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo; when they germinate, select a nursery site and sow.

2. Transplanting and Potting

In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting or potting, including: evening primrose, spider flower, impatiens, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red-clothed tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. But for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, broad-leaved mahonia, mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood family, under special circumstances, balled transplanting is not out of the question, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know," but after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

1. Watering

Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., generally once a day; second, watering temperature, irrigation water should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature; if the water temperature and soil temperature differ too much, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying; when there have been several days without rain, besides watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local spatial humidity; if there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness or moisture of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red-flowered oxalis, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia family, etc., when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level low, watering should be reduced and the pot soil kept merely moist; deep-dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (family), Ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots; watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page] If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil, to avoid causing root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand them upright again.

2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium, maranta family, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, sago palm, Aspidistra, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-backed excoecaria, Rhapis, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, winter daphne, azalea, day-fragrant osmanthus, lantana, clerodendrum, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply a well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer liquid once every half month; for species currently flowering, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Mesembryanthemum, stapelia, sedum family, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization must be stopped to avoid rotting.

3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, podocarpus, Fujian tea, true juniper, Cuibai juniper, water poplar, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the styling should be pruned or shortened as early as possible, which can keep the plant clearly layered and in good shape, and can promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, rose, etc., faded flowers and withered stems should be promptly removed, and the branches that have flowered should be appropriately shortened, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, the excessively vigorous branches should be tip-pruned and buds removed, inhibiting the growth of main and lateral shoots and promoting the sprouting of lateral buds.

4. Shading

In June, for those flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from the scorching sun, such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, Rhapis, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink taro, bird's nest fern, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, winter daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, Serissa, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Sageretia, horned holly, holly, water poplar, oak, black pine, Japanese black pine, white orchid, Aglaia, rose, mahonia, grape, etc.; podocarpus, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha-belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, bamboo-leaf podocarpus, etc., can be given appropriate shading.

5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Cuibai juniper, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, crabapple family, etc. are easily harmed by trunk-boring longhorn beetles; promptly use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Rose, wild rose, rugosa rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot in the plum rain season; spray Bordeaux mixture early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are easily harmed by aphids; promptly select suitable pesticide and spray to kill.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected by anthracnose; promptly spray carbendazim and other fungicides for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. have tender leaves easily eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae; spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly some woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened in early spring or field-planted. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, Cuibai juniper, Chinese juniper, horned holly, holly, wolfberry, five-needle pine, hall crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, Serissa, black pine, box-leaved holly, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water poplar, true juniper, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with light wiring and slow bending; never be impatient or use excessive force.

Solar terms in June: June 5 Grain in Ear; June 21 Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: on July 7, the Yangtze-Huai region ends its plum rain weather. July 16 is the start of the dog days, and August 15 is the end of the dog days, with most parts of the country entering the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of our country is above 24°C, 28°C in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region, and only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, four-season primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increased ventilation and light.
    In July, ripe fruits of plum, peach, wild peach, elm-leaf plum, etc. can also be picked; after washing off the flesh, immediately open furrows and sow, or store the washed drupes in moist sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown as collected, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia family, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum, kalanchoe, pothos, etc.
    Woody flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: red-backed excoecaria, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela, snowball viburnum, snow spray, winter daphne, gardenia, winter daphne, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, Serissa, Michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum sargentii, boxwood family, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea family, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttage.
In addition, in July, water cuttage can also be used to propagate some flowering trees. They are: gardenia, oleander, rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, etc. To use water cuttage to propagate flowering trees, first, prepare a thick 1 cm to 2 cm foam plastic board, perforated for use as cutting fixation material; second, keep the water used for cuttage clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be put in for anti-corrosion.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old wild peach or peach seedling plants can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaf plum, red-leaf plum, beauty plum, etc.; use cutting plants of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa rose, etc.; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate white orchid, Michelia, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate fine wintersweet varieties; 2-year-old wintersweet seedling plants can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm from the ground, and whether it survives can be judged after 7 to 10 days; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedling plants as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine cherry blossom varieties; use current-year seedling plants of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or hall crabapple and crabapple flowers as rootstock for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate fine crabapple varieties; use trident maple seedling plants as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, acorus family, umbrella plant, Aspidistra, purple-backed Japanese evergreen, bromeliad family, Haworthia, spider plant, liriope family, Reineckea, zephyr lily, Boston fern, iris, Tradescantia, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snake-eye chrysanthemum, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Mesembryanthemum, etc.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, wild peach, elm-leaf plum, etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting out and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers for National Day displays. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted up at this time can be seedlings raised from seed or from cuttings; after 3 months of careful tending, they will bloom right around National Day and serve as holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, New Guinea impatiens, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting certain flowering shrubs with a root ball is also feasible, such as leatherleaf mahonia, goldencup St. John's wort, golden privet, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea', Japanese aucuba, and Chinese juniper balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased; only after they have basically established should they be returned to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state under high temperatures, such as oxalis, pelargoniums, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonias, sedum, kalanchoe, cacti, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio radicans, daphne, Christmas cactus, portulacaria, aloe, etc., basically stop growing and have a very low metabolic level because the temperature is too high. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil kept moist, and attention paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, the plants easily develop root rot, and their recovery growth after autumn will also be seriously affected.
Flower species that enter a deep dormant state under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, and bleeding heart, show withered stems and leaves above ground in July, while the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off; they spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should simply be kept from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, cast-iron plant, Swiss cheese plant, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, calatheas, arrowhead vine, red (green) gem, giant taro, green imperial, green queen, pink-striped dracaena, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be sprayed appropriately, combining watering and spraying. Especially during consecutive overcast days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying must likewise be carried out; never be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilting, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves perk up again, water the roots; never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plants' nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause the plants to die.
For potted plum bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be applied to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain; if water accumulates in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot in the potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilizer management should be strengthened. First, species with an especially long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; third, species grown in winter for their flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as lady palm, Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer: for the first three categories, besides applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' overall demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and to provide sufficient nutritional assurance for their budding, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the method of application, applying thin liquid fertilizer as a drench is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers for which fertilizing should be strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, shrimp plant, Justicia brandegeeana, cymbidium, marigold, four-o'clock, snapdragon, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapples, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazilian ironwood, lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, arrowhead vine, calatheas, giant taro, red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, fertilizing must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, and especially for succulent ornamental plants, such as sedums, Senecio kleiniiformis, Lampranthus, Stapelia, etc., fertilizing must be stopped to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be top-pruned and have their buds pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, sprout strongly, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means removing the young shoot tips directly with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, Chinese tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, forsythia, Chinese hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, orange jasmine, etc. Pruning means cutting off part of the new shoots with scissors to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form graceful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, Xylosma japonicum, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca,' etc.
For potted flower species that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed in time, and the branches that have bloomed should be cut back as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and further blooming; while for rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Swiss cheese plant, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, lady palm, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pink-striped dracaena, pothos, pepperomias, cast-iron plant, wandering Jew, Brazilian ironwood, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, calatheas, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, oriental arborvitae, peach, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, trident maple, Japanese black pine, Adina rubella, Xylosma japonicum, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea,' white orchid, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. While for Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, bamboo palm, five-needle pine, etc., appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, besides giving the necessary shade, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand; this can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
For air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia, leatherleaf mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, golden shrimp plant, Chinese fan palm, lady palm, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, Schefflera, cast-iron plant, Japanese aucuba, etc., while species such as Boston fern, coleus, giant taro, arrowhead vine, etc., are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, causes the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach, crabapple, purple-leaf plum, cherry blossom, elm-leaved spirea, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poisoned sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, effectively killing the larvae inside the trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, etc., should be avoided to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the box tree pyralid, which harms boxleaf euonymus, Japanese box, Ilex bioritsensis, and pearl box. When this pest occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue, and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) The white wax scale insect that harms privet, Chinese privet, Ligustrum sinense, and white ash has its emergence period from late July to late August; the timing should be chosen accurately to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax scale insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf euonymus, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, purple-leaf plum, deodar cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of the nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a vigorous growth period, wounds to branches are easily infected by pathogens and difficult to heal and recover, so most tree-stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and they must be plants that were potted up and hardened off in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, hiba arborvitae, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis,' Serissa japonica, Japanese black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, shaping plants must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually; do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise the branches and trunk of the plant are very easily broken, endangering its survival.
    The solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the hot, dry period second only to July in the year; the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or heat-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, Japanese black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea,' five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Armanda pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, weeping fig, Chinese hibiscus, lantana, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch ironwood, croton, Brazilian ironwood, lady palm, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, frangipani, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese aralia, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: garden balsam, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata,' scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, shrimp plant, snapdragon, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are cast-iron plant, Aglaonema modestum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Buddhist pine, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and splits; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Pelargonium, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, begonia, Primula obconica, coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed medium prepared from alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, moisture-retaining bench cuttings or pot cuttings can propagate the following flower and tree species: firethorn, mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' Chinese snowball, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea, purple magnolia, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc., as the medium, cuttings can be taken of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden privet, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Yulan magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use the current-year seedling of wild peach as the rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use cherry seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora, etc., as rootstocks and bud-graft superior rose cultivars; use Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis seedlings, etc., as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as the rootstock and top-graft red maple and laceleaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as the rootstock and cleft-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior camellia cultivars; use seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft or approach-graft superior wintersweet cultivars. In addition, large-flowered wisteria can be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, Banksian rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Chinese snowball, snowball, oleander, gardenia, Scotch broom, winter jasmine, forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Syngonium podophyllum, multi-headed green imperial, bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, cast-iron plant, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, New York aster, Acorus gramineus, Boston fern, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' calatheas, arrowhead vine, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc., can also have their small bulbs divided and replanted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with a large root ball and supplemented by heavy pruning, and with strengthened management of shading, watering, and spraying after transplanting, a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as golden privet, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' golden oriental arborvitae, golden (variegated) boxwood, goldencup St. John's wort, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, Chinese juniper balls, Sabina komarovii balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Japanese aucuba, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, snapdragon, etc., which are expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, courtyard hedges such as boxwood, Chinese privet, privet, golden privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. Ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina komarovii, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, holly, etc., must also be pruned again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, lantana, etc., spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be cut back moderately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, marigold, etc., top pruning and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened; for plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; spray more and water cautiously, ensuring no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, golden (variegated) boxwood, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' golden privet, purple-leaf cherry plum, croton, red mulberry, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata,' etc., in order to keep the leaf color vivid for a long time, a quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For species that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' four-season osmanthus, ornamental pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, lantana, etc., as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn anemone, etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc., which are in the midst of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed via foliar feeding.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles, aphids, etc., occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawflies and tobacco cutworms that gnaw the leaves of Chinese rose, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, summer wintersweet, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Chinese peony, moss rose, four-o'clock, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m., and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that: for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, Begonia masoniana, and Begonia rex, water droplets that land on the leaves do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the flower buds in the leaf rosette of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause the heart to rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and spraying done more, and water should be poured into the leaf tank to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and spraying should be controlled, just maintaining the potting soil slightly moist; by spraying the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lady palm, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, queen palm, pygmy date palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian ironwood, Dutch ironwood, money tree, Boston fern, Dracaena, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (peace tree), golden coin tree (dragon-phoenix tree), arrowhead vine, green imperial, green queen, poinsettia, pink-striped dracaena, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, Chamaedorea elegans, croton, Japanese aralia, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with a long flowering period, such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' bougainvillea, lantana, etc., and for fruit-bearing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, golden bullet tree, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., besides ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in the midst of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., a low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, promptly spray the leaves once to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, portulacaria, Christmas cactus, sedums, Oxalis triangularis, cacti, cactus balls, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise the plants very easily develop root rot or die.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still intense, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Syngonium podophyllum, rubber tree, areca palm, giant taro, arrowhead vine, calatheas, red (green) gem, lady palm, pothos, green imperial, green queen, orchids, pink-striped dracaena, pepperomias, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo palm, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonias, lucky bamboo, cast-iron plant, asparagus fern, Hosta ventricosa, etc., shade frames can continue to be provided, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade after mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree-stump bonsai, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, etc. For Chinese rose, ornamental pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterflies, rose sawflies, and peach red-necked longhorn beetles. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Japanese black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea,' five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, ornamental pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, oriental arborvitae stumps, Sabina chinensis, creeping juniper, Xylosma japonicum, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Buddhist pine, etc. In August, some of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, Dendrobium orchids, Cattleya orchids, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda orchids, Oncidium orchids, South American cycad, Alocasia, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, giant taro, red (green) gem, calatheas, areca palm, queen palm, Syngonium podophyllum, Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, pothos, lady palm, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, shrimp plant, Brazilian ironwood, Japanese aralia, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, using large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film for moisture-retaining cuttings, some ornamental plants can be propagated; the cutting medium can be a mix of rice chaff ash and fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' shrimp plant, gardenia, shrimp plant, Justicia, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, etc.; during the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Japanese aucuba, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, frangipani, geranium, Aglaonema modestum, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying of balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the timing of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants, which prefer a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Swiss cheese plant, cast-iron plant, Syngonium podophyllum, camellia, sasanqua, arrowhead vine, Cymbidium goeringii, cymbidium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, etc.; spraying instead of watering on ordinary days is very beneficial for their safe summer survival. For large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium orchids, Cattleya orchids, fuchsia, Dendrobium orchids, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia, etc., they can be moved to an air-conditioned room and sprayed instead of watered, ensuring they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, Japanese black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Aurea,' wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, etc., they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, fertilizing must be stopped for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or drenched, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be broadcast on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for their flowers and fruit, such as white orchid, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied continuously. For Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Ilex cornuta, holly, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, etc., after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full light, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma japonicum, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, oriental arborvitae, Chinese privet, boxleaf euonymus, firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For other potted ornamental plants, spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and 25% Omite wettable powder at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystals at 1000 times dilution should be sprayed to kill them

Flower Planting Handbook (September volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures in most parts of our country gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese umbrella pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, weeping fig, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch ironwood, croton, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, lady palm, frangipani, bottle palm, leatherleaf mahonia, Japanese aralia, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm, Chinese rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, Cordyline fruticosa, pygmy date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Garcinia (Clusiaceae), giant Buddha belly bamboo, silver beech, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, orange jasmine, Dracaena, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, shrimp plant, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, snapdragon, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing down when sown, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm; cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer wintersweet, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, all the above seeds must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers; herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, Tropaeolum, cineraria, begonia, Gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in a plastic tunnel.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting medium, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela floribunda, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' fuchsia, Chinese snowball, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema, Justicia, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, goldencup St. John's wort, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, French holly, golden privet, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as the rootstock and graft superior tree peony cultivars; use wild peach, apricot, etc., seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstocks and bag-moistened cleft-graft red maple, laceleaf maple, etc.; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft superior white magnolia and Yulan magnolia cultivars; use potted purple magnolia as the rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid; use citrus seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior wintersweet cultivars.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Chinese snowball, Spiraea thunbergii, spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, cymbidium, Chinese peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia, snake plant, Syngonium podophyllum, multi-headed green imperial, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen,' Boston fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, Liriope, cast-iron plant, big-leaf liriope, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Scilla peruviana, etc., can also have their small bulbs divided and replanted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided a good root ball is kept. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, banana shrub, Sabina komarovii, osmanthus, camellia, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' golden privet, boxwood species, goldencup St. John's wort, French holly, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning and strengthened management of watering, spraying, and shading to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing, strongly sprouting courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants; this is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species that should be pruned are: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, Chinese privet, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' golden privet, golden oriental arborvitae, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants that should be pruned are: Chinese juniper, Sabina komarovii, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be top-pruned and pinched are: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, etc. They should be pinched once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots; pinching should stop after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as cultivar roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, ornamental pomegranate, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., spent flowers and withered stalks should be cut off in time, and the branches that have bloomed should be cut back moderately, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry, and continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management for trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in spring of the current year in the courtyard is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray the straw rope wrapped around the trunk to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for herbaceous flowers newly planted in succession, moisture-retaining spraying should also be done well.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden privet, Japanese barberry 'Atropurpurea,' red maple, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata,' croton, Japanese aucuba 'Variegata,' red mulberry, purple-leaf cherry plum, purple-leaf plum, purple-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color fresh and vivid at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied appropriately. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for their flowers and fruit, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui,' four-season mandarin, ornamental pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. But for kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are in bloom, fertilizing can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowers and trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poisoned sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew, etc., appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the Magnoliaceae. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, Exochorda, yew, and Lindera obtusiloba, etc. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, horse chestnut, crabapple species, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, garden balsam, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc.; after collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year before sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency: for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month, water or spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon; in the second half of the month, change to watering once, with appropriate foliar spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying. Watering time is before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilization. September is the period when most flowers are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so great attention should be paid to fertilization management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also known as dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), fishtail palm (Caryota), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Fittonia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is in autumn, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Lantana camara, five-color lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', sweet osmanthus, etc.; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), nandina (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), papaya (Chaenomeles), golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), beautyberry (Callicarpa), fruiting pomegranate, etc.; and for colorful-leaf plants such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', bromeliads, variegated banyan (Ficus), Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides), etc., fertilizer types with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as a top dressing. For Fuchsia, geranium (Pelargonium), calla lily (Zantedeschia), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Daphne odora, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, clivia (Clivia miniata), Epiphyllum, etc., which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed by watering; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud swelling stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), banana shrub (Michelia figo), Rhododendron, etc., low-concentration fertilizers with balanced nutrition can be applied as a top dressing; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, marigold (Tagetes erecta), chrysanthemum, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), orchids, Dieffenbachia, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Aspidistra elatior, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, 'Little Angel' (Philodendron), red (green) gem (Fittonia), Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Schefflera arboricola, Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia 'Variegata', Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum, staghorn fern (Platycerium), Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, king palm (Archontophoenix), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), water poplar (Adina rubella), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn (Pyracantha), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red machilus (Syzygium buxifolium), ? tree, Epiphyllum, nandina (Nandina domestica), jade plant (Crassula ovata), Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, coral flower (Russellia equisetiformis), etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those tree-stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Acer buergerianum, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), red machilus (Syzygium buxifolium), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), water poplar (Adina rubella), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), etc., continue to give pruning or bud pinching. In addition, for money tree (Pachira aquatica) seedlings, braiding into a "braid" can be carried out and then potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple (Malus), longevity peach (Prunus persica), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armored scale (Diaspididae), felt scale (Eriococcidae), etc., appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowers and trees with relatively strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), red pine (Pinus densiflora), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), water poplar (Adina rubella), Acer buergerianum, holly fern (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), fruit-viewing pomegranate, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), agave (Agave americana), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), spiny elm (Hemiptelea davidii), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha), Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, clivia (Clivia miniata), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Monstera deliciosa, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Aspidistra elatior, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm (Caryota), king coconut (Cocos nucifera), bandou tree, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera arboricola, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, coral flower (Russellia equisetiformis), Pachystachys lutea, banana shrub (Michelia figo), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Water cuttings can also be done indoors for Schefflera arboricola, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia, fig (Ficus carica), Aglaonema, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, 'Little Angel' (Philodendron), Chloranthus spicatus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water vat, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and normally spraying water is used instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more spraying and less watering should also be done, so as to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance placed on the balcony, watering once a day and spraying 1 to 2 times a day can continue, or the immersion pot method can be used to prevent the phenomenon of the pot soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and care should be taken that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate should be added to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilization. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied by watering; for vigorously growing potted bonsai stumps, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), firethorn (Pyracantha), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied as a top dressing; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to different species, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer can be applied. The types of top dressing for flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul odor, and care should be taken not to splash downstairs when watering, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc. can continue to be placed on the pot surface; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, a support frame can continue to be set up and a shade net pulled over to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), water poplar (Adina rubella), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Acer buergerianum, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, residual flowers and rotten stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle (Semanotus bifasciatus) appearing on Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and Sabina chinensis bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on plum blossom, crabapple (Malus), papaya (Chaenomeles), longevity peach (Prunus persica), etc., poison sticks can continue to be inserted or carbofuran buried for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, firethorn (Pyracantha), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution can be sprayed for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers and plants suitable for courtyard display

In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. There are many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display this month. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Japanese umbrella pine (Sciadopitys verticillata), whitebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, sweet osmanthus, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Schefflera arboricola, variegated banyan (Ficus), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', thick-leaf fig (Ficus), fishtail palm (Caryota), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), king coconut (Cocos nucifera), Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), desert rose (Adenium obesum), South American cycad (Zamia), Fukugi, giant Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), red maple (Acer palmatum), silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, ludou tree, orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), nandina (Nandina domestica), etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, large-flowered canna (Canna generalis), dahlia, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia (Begonia maculata), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), marigold (Tagetes erecta), five-color pepper (Capsicum annuum), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), dwarf petunia (Petunia), Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), red-flowered camellia (Camellia), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species (Aesculus), summer wintersweet (Calycanthus), coral ardisia, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), broadleaf holly (Ilex kudingcha), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), French holly (Viburnum), Elaeocarpus, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), yew (Taxus), fan palm (Livistona), privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Weigela, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of summer wintersweet and Weigela can be dry-stored until sowing the next spring, for other species, after the seeds are cleaned, they can be stored in wet sand to promote germination until the next spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that the seeds should be rinsed clean before storage and germination promotion, the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), Dianthus species, pansy (Viola tricolor), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, verbena (Verbena), etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), dwarf petunia (Petunia), cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), four-season primrose (Primula), African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), calceolaria (Calceolaria), can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

2. Cuttage. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera arboricola, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Lantana camara, firethorn (Pyracantha), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia, Aucuba, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Weigela, snowball (Viburnum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), spiraea (Spiraea), Hypericum, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig (Ficus carica), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc. The cutting substrate can use ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), bamboo-joint begonia (Begonia maculata), Tradescantia zebrina, golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Pilea, coral flower (Russellia equisetiformis), Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden-vein Pachystachys, winter chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine (Pinus thunbergii) seedlings as rootstock, bag and keep moist to graft five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora, including Osaka pine) and Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora); use peony roots as rootstock to graft excellent varieties of tree peony; use 1-year-old Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, bag and keep moist to graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use 1-year-old white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; use triangular cactus (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by low layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom (Prunus mume), Weigela, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), weigela (Weigela florida), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), August sweet osmanthus, snowball (Viburnum), doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Hypericum, French holly (Viburnum), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia, Michelia, spiraea (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), etc.

5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: nandina (Nandina domestica), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), mahonia (Mahonia), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball (Viburnum), double-flowered kerria (Kerria japonica), spray flower, spiraea (Spiraea), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hosta (Hosta), Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), Aglaonema, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, multi-head green emperor (Aglaonema), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: calla lily (Zantedeschia), amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia (Freesia), lycoris (Lycoris radiata), tulip (Tulipa), Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), pomegranate, lilac (Syringa), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach (Prunus persica), floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum), etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), nandina (Nandina domestica), Sabina chinensis, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), golden-edge thousand-head arborvitae, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), boxwood (Buxus sinica), spoon-leaf boxwood (Buxus harlandii), etc., when transplanting, first, pruning should be carried out before transplanting, second, a soil ball should be taken, and third, watering and spraying management should be strengthened after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus, daisy (Bellis perennis), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pansy (Viola tricolor), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), verbena (Verbena), phlox (Phlox), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus (Narcissus tazetta), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip (Tulipa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), etc.

2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edge privet (Ligustrum), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), golden-edge thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edge boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), boxwood (Buxus sinica), French holly (Viburnum), privet (Ligustrum), photinia (Photinia), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), boxwood (Buxus), bayberry (Myrica rubra), holly fern (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), photinia (Photinia), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), firethorn (Pyracantha), etc. For ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Lantana camara, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), etc., continue to cut off residual flowers and rotten stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, marigold (Tagetes erecta), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flower formation and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the viewing period.

3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying, first, keep the root soil moist but not waterlogged; second, continue to spray water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.

4. Fertilization. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as a top dressing; for sweet osmanthus species that have already flowered, base fertilizer can be buried in a ring-shaped trench; for Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), crabapple (Malus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Camellia japonica, Michelia, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc. that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for nandina, firethorn (Pyracantha), and southern finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), etc. that are in the fruit-viewing state, a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied by watering, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), crabapple (Malus), etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page] 6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), horse chestnut (Aesculus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Manglietia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia chapensis, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Ardisia crenata, beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fan palm (Livistona), broadleaf holly (Ilex kudingcha), French holly (Viburnum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya (Chaenomeles), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), yew (Taxus), oil tea (Camellia oleifera), etc., and these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple (Acer palmatum), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), southern wild jujube (Choerospondias axillaris), redbud (Cercis chinensis), happy tree (Camptotheca acuminata), Bischofia polycarpa, five-angle maple (Acer truncatum), etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, cockscomb (Celosia cristata), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), small dahlia, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), impatiens (Impatiens balsamina), four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), snow-on-the-mountain, painted euphorbia (Euphorbia cyathophora), sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica), dancing grass (Codariocalyx motorius), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna (Canna), dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and then cut and divide them for planting in the spring of the following year.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and thorough. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem (Fittonia), etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily (Zantedeschia), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), clivia (Clivia miniata), Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, geranium (Pelargonium), Fuchsia, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and more spraying done to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots and help them survive the winter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

2. Fertilization. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn coolness, low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer should be applied in time as a top dressing; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), primrose (Primula), clivia (Clivia miniata), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), black orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), nandina, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), coral ardisia, golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing in early to mid-October.

3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem (Fittonia), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), Peperomia species, etc., during the 2 to 3 hours around noon, shading is still needed.

4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid to late October, their dead branches and leaves, diseased and pest-infested branches, thin and weak branches, etc. should be cut off first; for leggy branches, strong shortening should be carried out; for binding materials that have been shaping for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or re-bound after removal, to prevent long-term tight binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing dead branches and leaves.

5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid to late October, some ornamental plant species intolerant of low temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried at the end of the month in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the pot soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum longhorn beetle, leaf-miner larvae, inchworm, etc.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Acer buergerianum, water poplar (Adina rubella), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka'), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pomegranate, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), thick-leaf fig (Ficus), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), firethorn (Pyracantha), Lantana camara, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), red maple (Acer palmatum), etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flower and tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Aspidistra elatior, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm (Caryota), king coconut (Cocos nucifera), bandou, Schefflera arboricola, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouth large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Schefflera arboricola, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aucuba, Michelia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema, coral flower (Russellia equisetiformis), Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), geranium (Pelargonium), etc.

Management of balcony flowers

1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Schefflera arboricola, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and spraying water on branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, 'Little Angel' (Philodendron), Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), Anthurium andraeanum, money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), Calathea species, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), etc., spraying should be the main method and watering supplementary, so as to keep the pot soil from drying out.

2. Fertilization. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia (Clivia miniata), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), calla lily (Zantedeschia), as well as Cymbidium hybridum, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied by watering; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), golden bean (Fortunella), lemon (Citrus limon), nandina, golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), fuguizi, firethorn (Pyracantha), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc., a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied by watering; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, etc., 1 to 2 thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer applications can be made in early October to help them pass through the winter smoothly.

3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect those nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the pot soil, and prevent the pot soil from compacting, wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc. can continue to be placed on the surface of the pot soil, especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, during the 3 to 4 hours around noon on clear days, they can be moved indoors. The shade net set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

4. Pruning. In mid to late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Acer buergerianum, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka'), privet (Ligustrum), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can be untied first, and if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new tying position can be changed for further binding and fixing, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plants. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, plowing the ground and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and greenhouses. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), clivia (Clivia miniata), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), hosta (Hosta), etc.

Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: snowball (Viburnum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), privet (Ligustrum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Chinese podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), fuguizi (Ardisia crenata), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), French holly (Viburnum), photinia (Photinia), photinia (Photinia), etc.

2. Cuttage. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), plum blossom (Prunus mume, referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis, referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth and other easy-to-root varieties), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc.

Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), holly fern (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), etc. Some root-cutting seedlings among them can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

In November, flower and trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: boxwood (Buxus sinica), spoon-leaf boxwood (Buxus harlandii), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), silver-edge boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), Pilea, golden-edge privet (Ligustrum), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Hypericum, Hypericum, mahonia (Mahonia), golden-edge snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow by the next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, bamboo-joint begonia (Begonia maculata), mingye begonia, lotus-leaf begonia (Begonia), geranium (Pelargonium), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), Fuchsia, jade plant (Crassula ovata), Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), etc. can also be propagated by cuttings, and can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), grape (Vitis vinifera), etc. can also be cut and stored, to be used for cuttings in the spring of the following year, which can significantly accelerate their rooting speed and increase the cutting survival rate.

3. Grafting. Use green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, bag indoors and graft red maple and feather maple; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); use thick and strong branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock wood, and use excellent variety Chinese rose branches as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so as to promote simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent Chinese rose varieties.

4. Layering. In November, the main flower and tree species that can be propagated by low layering include: flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), small-leaf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), weigela (Weigela florida), sweet osmanthus, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), cuibai, Michelia, snowball (Viburnum), snowball (Viburnum), doublefile viburnum (Viburnum plicatum), spiraea (Spiraea), etc.

5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), snowball (Viburnum), spiraea (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea), sanya, Hypericum, Hypericum, mahonia (Mahonia), butterfly bush (Buddleja), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), broom (Cytisus), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia, jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), feibaizhu, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna (Canna), large-flowered canna (Canna generalis) can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the next spring, and then cut, divided and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: white bletilla (Bletilla striata), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris, ornamental bromeliad, large-leaf lilyturf (Ophiopogon jaburan), Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), Aglaonema, Aspidistra elatior, mother of thousands (Bryophyllum), etc.

1. Harvesting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in November include: Salvia splendens, globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), kongque cao, marigold (Tagetes erecta), maple mallow (Abutilon), etc.

Flower and tree species whose seeds can be harvested in November for dry storage include: black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), happy tree (Camptotheca acuminata), eucommia (Eucommia ulmoides), red-twig dogwood (Cornus alba), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), caragana (Caragana), snowball (Viburnum). Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), wolfberry (Lycium), yew (Taxus), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), wintergreen (Ilex), holly fern (Ilex cornuta), firethorn (Pyracantha), photinia (Photinia), photinia (Photinia), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis, used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly (Silene), Dianthus, hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), large-flowered pansy (Viola), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), daisy (Bellis perennis), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), etc.

Species that can be transplanted as large trees in November include: camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), privet (Ligustrum), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), sweet osmanthus, red maple (Acer palmatum), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), horse chestnut (Aesculus), linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia), papaya (Chaenomeles), crabapple (Malus), etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk tied well with straw rope, and a large soil ball taken (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back, large branches trimmed, a soil ball taken and the trunk tied well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water evaporation from the tree body.

In November, plum stumps, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic tunnels to force flowering, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

In November, potted hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the amount of watering in November is specifically based on keeping the pot soil moist, and it must not be too wet. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf spraying should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), firethorn (Pyracantha), nandina, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), fuguizi, etc., not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed frequently to facilitate the swelling and growth of flower buds and also make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed frequently to keep the leaf color green and glossy at all times. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, green emperor (Aglaonema), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), silver queen (Aglaonema), etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page] The watering time for potted flowers in November is preferably 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions of plants due to too low water temperature and thereby affect their safe overwintering.

2. Fertilization. For potted flowers placed indoors with a temperature above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), Daphne odora, cineraria (Pericallis cruenta), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip (Tulipa), ornamental bromeliad, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), colorful bromeliad, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied as a top dressing, using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution, which can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, top dressing should be stopped to help them dormancy and overwinter normally. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia), Manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia, banana shrub (Michelia figo), Michelia foveolata, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), spiraea (Spiraea), sweet osmanthus, grape (Vitis vinifera), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), red maple (Acer palmatum), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia, peony (Paeonia lactiflora), Hypericum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, and smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped shapes that have not yet been pruned, and after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Acer buergerianum, oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), crabapple (Malus), etc., laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, carry out strong shortening of the current year's branches, except for retaining several thick branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, cut off all the remaining current year's branches, so as to facilitate the production of more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees on flowerbeds, roadside edges, and courtyards, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), sweet osmanthus, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Forsythia, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), camellia (Camellia japonica), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), firethorn (Pyracantha), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), crabapple (Malus), etc., cut off all those disorderly branches, thin and weak branches, inner canopy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, etc., and appropriately shorten the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, thick palm trees can also be stripped of palm bark, and the trunk cleaned well, so that they show their due ornamental effect.

4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, nandina, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, pinglanhua, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), kumquat (Fortunella margarita), Ardisia crenata, Schefflera arboricola, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fishtail palm (Caryota), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, deep-cut philodendron (Philodendron), Aglaia odorata, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), golden-vein Pachystachys, Pachystachys lutea, Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), red (green) gem (Fittonia), Philodendron 'Green Giant', green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium faberi, etc., they should be placed indoors with a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected through winter with double-layer plastic tunnels.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple species, rhododendron (Rhododendron), pomegranate, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese plum yew (Sageretia thea), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), cuibai, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Acer buergerianum, red maple (Acer palmatum), etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil, and under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If encountering particularly cold weather, film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai kept in cold frames, greenhouses or indoors in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, ventilation should also be carried out properly; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation to prevent the plants from being stifled indoors for long periods, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not be allowed to enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, also take care never to let the plants be hit directly by cold draughts.

5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses (Rosa chinensis), camellias, chrysanthemums and so on, collect the fallen leaves beneath the plants and burn them, which can markedly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For the trunks of street trees, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the dead or split trunk parts for preservation, to prevent deep rotting of the stump's xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects and so on appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or cold frames (they may occur on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), orchids, camellias, clivia (Clivia miniata) and aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior)), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide (methidathion).

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange and Chinese rose), spraying tobacco water can be used for control.

For Western azaleas placed in cold frames, stop spraying foliar fertilizers of the "Yemianbao" type, otherwise, because of poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mould is extremely likely to occur.

In November, the main bonsai plant species suitable for styling include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese weeping cypress (Cupressus funebris), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), felt juniper (Juniperus squamata), prostrate juniper (Juniperus rigida var. conferta), Euonymus pendulus (drooping spindle tree), serissa (Serissa japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), winter hazel (Corylopsis), Japanese bitter oak (Quercus acutissima), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), pearl box (Buxus sinica 'Pearl'), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana) and so on.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and trained with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when noticeable constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November and the trunk and branches re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn (Pyracantha) and silverberry (Elaeagnus), after initial root trimming, trunk cutting and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-planting, high-mounding method, and carry out styling after they sprout the following year.

For tree stumps that have been cultivated and styled for 1 to 2 years and are basically formed, in November, according to the styling characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches of the stump, choose a suitable pot and repot them properly, and pair them with ornamental stones and dot them with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-styled tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach (Prunus persica 'Duplex'), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese juniper, Chaenomeles speciosa and so on can, in November, be potted properly in suitably matched containers; with strengthened water management, they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

Weather characteristics of December: this month most parts of China enter winter and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent heavy frosts. This month, the care of flowering trees and shrubs should focus on three aspects: first, doing a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowering trees and shrubs brought into greenhouses, cold frames and homes; second, doing a good job of pruning and cleaning up outdoor flowering trees and shrubs and of turning and fertilizing the soil; third, doing the preparatory work of composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) and so on; flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand to promote germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata (coral berry), wintergreen (Ilex) species, firethorn (Pyracantha), palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), photinia (Photinia) and Photinia davidsoniae and so on.

2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by outdoor cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easily rooting cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses and miniature roses); red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox, heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea), box (Buxus) species and so on. Among these, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow-heart soil; Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to keep warm and moist.

In the greenhouse, African violets (Saintpaulia) can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium (Pelargonium), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), queen of the night (Epiphyllum), gem plant (Graptopetalum), Echeveria, purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), wax begonia (Begonia × semperflorens-cultorum), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), Chloranthus, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), bleeding-heart glorybower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), lantana (Lantana camara), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), daphne (Daphne odora), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa) and so on. Using cold-frame seedbeds, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-heart (golden-edged) box (Buxus), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), hypericum (Hypericum), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), serissa, firethorn, silver-bud willow (Salix gracilistyla), Triandra (Neillia) and so on. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), lilac (Syringa) and grape can be cut and stored in sand for cuttings the following spring.

3. Grafting. Superior plum blossom cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum or peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, do cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant at a certain row and plant spacing on the seedbed, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the graft union; cover with plastic film to keep warm and moist, and the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft superior rose cultivars; or use vigorous branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose scions onto the upper end, then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union; cover with plastic film to keep moist and warm; the following spring, after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film, and only after it has fully survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the graft union. In addition, red maple (Acer palmatum f. atropurpureum) can be side-grafted indoors with a bag covering to keep moist.

4. Layering. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia (Camellia japonica), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath spirea), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Spiraea thunbergii (snow spray), pomegranate (Punica granatum) and so on.

5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), ribbon grass (Reineckea carnea), hosta (Hosta), purple calyx (Hosta ventricosa), red-flowered oxalis (Oxalis corymbosa), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope platyphylla), Ophiopogon (Ophiopogon bodinieri), Rohdea japonica, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off offsets from the base of a large variegated bromeliad plant, it must be a small plant that has already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the coloured bands on the offset cut away tend to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina (Nandina domestica), hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal (Agave sisalana), Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei and so on.

1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens types, Gomphrena globosa types, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), cyclamen, clivia and so on. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection.

The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), privet (Ligustrum lucidum), small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen (Ilex) species, camphor tree, photinia species; after treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification to promote germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure of sowing and seedling raising the following year.

2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flowerbeds and flower borders in December include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala), large-flowered pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), daisy (Bellis perennis) and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in cold frames, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus and pansy, and can be used for street display the following spring.

In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate, redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum, cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholartree (Sophora japonica), weeping pagoda tree and so on. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious; evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet (Ligustrum lucidum), osmanthus, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree, azalea (Rhododendron), wintergreen (Ilex) and so on; when transplanting, first heavily cut back the leader and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, take a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, and seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

Tree stumps and flowering trees and shrubs that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple. Place them in cold frames for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

In December, continue to keep potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) and so on in the shed for flower forcing, which can bring them into bloom around the Spring Festival.

1. Cold protection. In simple plastic cold frames with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freeze damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus (Sprenger's asparagus), asparagus fern (Asparagus cochinchinensis), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata' (spotted laurel), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei, sago palm (Cycas revoluta) and so on.

For ornamental plant species requiring a wintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Michelia alba, Chloranthus, pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea (Rhododendron), bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose (Primula), lantana, kumquat (Fortunella margarita), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium, Chinese hibiscus, Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) and so on, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic cold frames. For species requiring a wintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Caladium bicolor, pepperomia (Peperomia), maranta (Maranta), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), nerve plant (Fittonia), bromeliads, pink foliage plant (Episcia), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), large-flowered Cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), bleeding-heart glorybower, golden shrimp plant, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad (Zamia), red (green) gem (Fittonia), Oncidium, Cymbidium hookerianum and so on, in well-sealed double-layer cold frames, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the cold frame with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature warms up.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Japanese bitter oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, box species, Buddhist pine, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), red cedar (Platycladus orientalis), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly, Fraxinus chinensis var. acuminata (Chinese ash) and so on, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not suffer freeze damage; in particularly cold weather, additionally cover with plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page] Whether placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or kept in homes, bonsai, potted flowers and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining an appropriate indoor temperature, should also be given ventilation; doors and windows can be opened around noon, the warmest time of day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also take care not to let cold draughts blow directly onto the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames and homes, keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is on the low side and too much water is given, the plants are extremely prone to root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth and European narcissus, and for fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, calamondin (Citrofortunella microcarpa), kumquat (Fortunella), winter cherry, Ardisia crenata and nandina, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also give foliar spraying, to help the flower buds swell and also to increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, keep the potting soil moist and also give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Episcia, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead vine), maranta, croton, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' and so on, when the room temperature is already approaching the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, pay special attention to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

The watering time in December is best set in the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowering trees and shrubs outdoors, check frequently and give supplementary watering in good time; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping.

3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary cold frames, stop fertilizing, otherwise the plants are very likely to suffer root rot and die.

For most of the greening trees and flowering trees and shrubs grown in the ground, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, manglietia (Manglietia), Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), Chinese peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Forsythia viridissima, hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia (Deutzia), pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), hypericum, weeping willow (Salix babylonica), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, elm-leaved pear (Prunus triloba), Chinese bush cherry (Prunus japonica), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), photinia, redbud, rose of Sharon and so on, in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the plant root zone, of types such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, septic tank residue and so on, to lay a good material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, bromeliads, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, freesia (Freesia refracta) and so on, continue to apply 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution as a top dressing, to promote bud formation and flowering.

4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November; hedges and green walls such as privet (Ligustrum lucidum), small-leaf privet, Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), large-leaf box (Euonymus japonicus), Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis' (Chinese juniper), four-season osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Photinia davidsoniae and so on; ball-shaped plants such as Chinese holly, Chinese bayberry (Myrica rubra), photinia, box species, pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), Forsythia viridissima, firethorn, dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuka'), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis) and so on; while completing the pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree (Platanus orientalis), plum blossom, wintersweet and so on, carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, bury and apply fertilizer around the roots.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned rather than wired, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese holly, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple, Japanese bitter oak, Fraxinus chinensis var. acuminata (Chinese ash), firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis) and so on, continue pruning in December, to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants not repotted for many years, repot them in combination with pruning.

5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, crape myrtle and so on, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves beneath the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and grey mould on primrose, for the former use triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl for control in good time, and for the latter use thiophanate-methyl for control.

For the types of flowering trees and shrubs in greenhouses and cold frames that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia, aspidistra and so on, first wipe them over with a cloth, then use pesticides such as Supracide (methidathion) for control.

For the types of flowering trees and shrubs on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, Fujian tea and so on, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of outdoor-cultivated flowering trees and shrubs such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander (Nerium oleander), crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale (Ceroplastes ceriferus), Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), red wax scale (Ceroplastes rubens), armoured scale (Diaspididae), arrowhead scale (Unaspis yanonensis), mealybug (Pseudococcidae), felt scale (Eriococcidae) and so on; at this time, spraying higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide (methidathion), quinalphos and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

6. Composting fertilizer. For the needs of next year's seedling raising and potting soil mixing, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea-seed cake and so on into water vats or ponds, add water and seal them for soaking and fermentation.

Pile dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings the following year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings and so on with garden soil, pile and compost them, and seal for fermentation; this can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil the following year.

7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade and compost as much potting soil as possible, to meet the need for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mould (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco dust or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer; the garden soil and leaf mould should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, and after thoroughly mixing them, cover with plastic film, or they can be piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

8. Turning the soil and freezing the clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out seedlings, ploughing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud and so on can be applied before ploughing; do not make beds for the time being; after overwintering and freezing of the clods, in early spring of the following year dig furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine, Japanese arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Chinese weeping cypress, felt juniper, Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly, wintergreen (Ilex), Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), serissa, Caragana sinica, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, winter hazel (Corylopsis), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, Chaenomeles cathayensis (mugua crabapple), boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), pearl box (Buxus sinica 'Pearl'), wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea, Fraxinus chinensis var. acuminata (Chinese ash), Japanese bitter oak and so on.

For bonsai plants fixed and styled by coiling with palm fibre (rope) or metal wire, if the fixing has already lasted a year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding should be removed and the plant re-coiled and trained with metal wire or palm rope.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle and so on that have already been styled, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, choose suitably matched pots and plant them properly, strengthen management, so that they can be used the following year for display in public places or homes.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant roots; second, prevent ice from causing the artificially cemented rocks to break apart; third, prevent the plants grown on the rockery from freezing to death or drying out. They can be placed in a location that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

Weather characteristics of January: this month is the month with the lowest temperatures and the coldest weather of the year; January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "third nine-day period", and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year occur. This month, the most important thing in flower care is doing a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai and so on in greenhouses, cold frames and homes, followed by tree pruning, clearing of dead branches and fallen leaves, and turning and preparing the soil, preparing potting soil and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) and so on. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen (Ilex), firethorn, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet (Ligustrum lucidum), wisteria, Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), goldenrain tree and so on.

2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for outdoor cuttings or cuttings under plastic film in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (heel cuttings), spiraea, box species, pomegranate, silver-bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Triandra (Neillia), hypericum, Forsythia viridissima, Spiraea thunbergii (snow spray), winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum) and so on. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), gem plant (Graptopetalum), jade leaf (Portulacaria afra), jade tree (Crassula ovata), Echeveria, queen of the night (Epiphyllum), night-blooming cereus, Pilea cadierei (aluminium plant), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Rieger begonia, bleeding-heart glorybower, schefflera, rubber tree, daphne, red-backed excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), Aglaonema modestum, pothos, ti plant and so on. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela florida, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, fig (Ficus carica) and so on can be cut and stored in sand, for cuttings in March.

3. Grafting. For superior plum blossom cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach or wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, plant them buried on the seedbed and cover with plastic film to keep moist and protect from cold. In the Guangdong region, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate calamondin, kumquat and so on; use dug-up wild rose for budding superior rose cultivars; using the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose cultivars, with grafting and cuttings carried out simultaneously, and cover with plastic film to keep moist and protect from cold.

4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Buddhist pine, snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, hydrangea, Spiraea thunbergii (bridal wreath spirea), Spiraea thunbergii (snow spray), pomegranate, red maple and so on.

5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope platyphylla), silver-edged lilyturf (Liriope), ribbon grass (Reineckea carnea), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink zephyr lily (Zephyranthes grandiflora), hosta, purple calyx (Hosta ventricosa), purple-backed Rohdea (Rohdea japonica 'Purpurea'), Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily, iris, spider plant (Chlorophytum) types, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), bromeliads, small tulip (Tulbaghia), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), Monstera deliciosa, aloe (Aloe) and so on. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, hypericum, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa), Spiraea thunbergii (snow spray), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), gardenia, Triandra (Neillia), box (Buxus), purple magnolia and so on.

6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are ripe asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; ripe winter cherry seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, wintergreen (Ilex) species and Ardisia crenata can be picked; after treatment, carry out sand stratification to promote germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can sowing be carried out.

In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Ilex species and so on, to see whether the seeds have become mouldy; if mould appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, give supplementary spraying in good time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, then sowing must be carried out immediately, and cover with plastic film or rice straw, pine needles and so on to keep warm and moist.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy and so on; in relatively cold regions, after potting seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose and so on, first place them in simple plastic cold frames, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flowerbeds, green spaces and flower borders.

In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple (Acer) species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Magnolia × soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triandra (Neillia), Chinese rose, Chinese scholartree, Sophora japonica var. pendula and so on. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum sinense (Chinese privet), this month, except in special cases, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in sheltered locations, with heavy cut-back after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also possible.

In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not hinder the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), crape myrtle, Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, silverberry (Elaeagnus) and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat's claw holly (Ilex cornuta var. fortunei), Chinese holly, wintergreen (Ilex) and Japanese bitter oak, heavy cut-back must be carried out and most of the leaves removed. Whether deciduous or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-planting, high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai in overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature each different flower species can endure, create a special environment for safe overwintering for them, either in a greenhouse, or in a cold frame, or at home, or planted buried in open ground. In simple plastic cold frames not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure lows of around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus, asparagus fern (Asparagus cochinchinensis), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), Japanese fatsia, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern, bamboo palm, nandina, aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, calamus (Acorus calamus), Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), Pleioblastus fortunei and so on. In double-layer plastic cold frames not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure lows of around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut (Chamaedorea elegans), bottle orchid (Aglaia), calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum (tree philodendron), Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, queen of the night, night-blooming cereus, giant Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, lantana and so on. In double-layer plastic cold frames or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure lows of around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead vine), maranta, bromeliads, pepperomia (Peperomia), coleus (Coleus), lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, nerve plant, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (money tree), South American cycad (Zamia), desert rose (Adenium obesum), Episcia, poinsettia, golden shrimp plant, coral plant (Jatropha multifida) and so on; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the cold frame with straw curtains, and only stop adding straw curtains after the temperature warms up. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise the plants are very likely to suffer freeze damage. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Japanese bitter oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, box species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), Chinese arborvitae, small bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly, wintergreen (Ilex), Fraxinus chinensis var. acuminata (Chinese ash) and so on, they can be buried in the soil together with their pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur; in particularly cold weather, additionally cover with plastic film or soft grass to keep warm.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in cold frames, greenhouses, or at home, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining an appropriate air temperature, ventilation should also be carried out properly; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold draughts blowing directly onto the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and cold frames during each cold air movement southward; if broken glass, torn film and so on are found, promptly plug and repair them, so that potted flowers do not freeze. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to the greenhouse, also check carefully, and do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the greenhouse or cold frame, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and so on.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at around 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 extra hours of light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hall crabapple, winter jasmine and so on can also be placed in a cold frame at around 15°C for flower forcing, with the light duration appropriately increased, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees and shrubs during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, freesia and so on already placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

In the watering management of potted flowers in January, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very likely to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even make the plants drop leaves, rot roots or die. The watering time is best set in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, cold frames and homes, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For the vast majority of foliage plants, keep the potting soil moist and also pay attention to giving foliar spraying, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Episcia, Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead vine), maranta, croton and so on, when the temperature approaches the lower limit the plant can endure, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, pot marigold and so on, and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, kumquat (Fortunella), winter cherry and so on, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also spray the plants, to help the flower buds swell and also to increase the bright colour of the fruits.

In January, although potted flowers need little water, checking should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water; give supplementary watering in good time to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplementary watering in good time, especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting; around noon, appropriate foliar spraying should also be given, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and dropping because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most of the ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia × soulangeana, manglietia (Manglietia), Michelia species, maple (Acer) species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), Chinese guger tree (Schima superba), Phoebe (Machilus), purple tree (Nyssa), happy tree (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony, Forsythia viridissima, box, grape, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, Chinese bush cherry, elm-leaved pear, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow (Salix × aureo-pendula), weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwania (Taiwania cryptomerioides), cedar, Chinese scholartree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) and so on, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings and so on around the outer edge of the tree root zone, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at around 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, tulip, colourful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) and so on, continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution as a top dressing, to help the plants grow and form buds and bloom.

For most potted flowering trees and shrubs, foliage plants and bonsai placed in cold frames, because the plants are dormant in winter, stop fertilizing, otherwise the plants are very likely to suffer root rot and die.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and ball-shaped plants and so on not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), wintersweet, plum blossom, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), grape and so on, continue pruning; after pruning is finished, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of their root zone, to meet the needs of their spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, Japanese bitter oak, Fraxinus chinensis var. acuminata (Chinese ash), water willow (Adina rubella), silverberry (Elaeagnus), firethorn, serissa, Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis) and so on, continue, according to the original compositional requirements and the development and change trends of the plant's trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a good foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants not repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum blossom species, elm-leaved pear species, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum and so on that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles (Aromia bungii) and so on, they can be sawn off, and the sawn-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear away the leaves beneath Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle and so on, gather them up and burn them in a central place, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases the following year.

For horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armoured scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, thread scale and so on appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet (Ligustrum lucidum), firethorn, persimmon (Diospyros kaki), gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, photinia and so on, spray high-concentration Supracide (methidathion), quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture and so on for control, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and grey mould easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mould appearing at the same time on bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat and so on in greenhouses, carry out integrated control; first wipe off the sooty mould patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For grey mould appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea-seed cake and so on into water ponds or vats for soaking and fermentation, so they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches, fallen leaves and so on in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to make home-made burnt soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings and so on with garden soil, pile and compost them for fermentation, and this can be used as fertilizer for mixing potting soil.

IX. Ploughing and Freezing the Clods

For nursery land not yet ploughed in December, seize the time in early January to plough; while ploughing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure and so on; after overwintering and freezing of the clods, in early spring dig furrows and make beds, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, the plant species suitable for styling must be those with soft, pliable branches that are easy to work with for styling operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), felt juniper, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii), five-needle pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), water willow (Adina rubella), Caragana sinica, winter hazel (Corylopsis), Euonymus pendulus, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), wisteria and so on. After styling, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic cold frames, and only moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of any damage caused during styling.

For plants styled 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding points, the original binding should be removed and they should be re-coiled and trained.

In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which damages the plant's fibrous roots and can cause the artificially cemented rocks to break apart; also prevent the plants grown on the small rocks from freezing to death, and it is advisable to place them in a location that does not freeze and to water and spray them regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

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