What are the key points for propagating bleeding heart? Explained clearly in one article
Bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant. It is named this way because its leaves resemble those of the peony and its flowers resemble a pouch. Bleeding heart can be said to be another kind of Chinese rose (detailed introduction); giving it to a lover carries the same meaning as a rose. Bleeding heart can be propagated by division or by cutting the rhizome into sections. The editor will now introduce the propagation methods and precautions for bleeding heart.
Bleeding heart
Commonly propagated by division or by cutting the rhizome into sections. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizome naturally along its segments, and plant them separately. Alternatively, cut the rhizome into sections, each with a bud eye, insert them into sand, and after rooting, plant them in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings need 3 years of cultivation before they can bloom. During the growing period, provide sufficient fertilizer and water. During the flowering period, move the plant as little as possible to avoid fallen flowers affecting its ornamental value.
After flowering, the aboveground part withers. The rhizome can be dug up and potted, keeping the temperature at 15°C and a moist environment; after about 70 days, flowers can be seen again. There are three propagation methods for bleeding heart: First, the most commonly used division method. In early spring in February, when new buds are stirring but new leaves have not yet unfolded, take the plant out of the pot, shake off the soil from the roots, use a sharp knife to cut off the tender tillering stems with fibrous roots around the root, plant two or three plants in one pot, cover with soil 2 to 3 cm above the old soil mark, water, and place in a shady spot. After new leaves grow, manage as usual, and it can bloom that year. Two points should be noted for division: 1. It must be done at the right time. If the old plant's new leaves have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. 2. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years; it cannot be done every year. Second, the cutting method. After the flowers fade, cut off the inflorescence, and 7 to 10 days later cut 10 cm to 15 cm healthy branches with axillary buds from the lower part, dip the cut ends in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert them into plain soil, water, and place in a shady spot. Frequently mist the cuttings, but control watering of the potting soil; keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in about a month. In the following spring, plant them in pots with soil. With good management, they can bloom that year. Third, sowing. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are collected, but seedlings take 3 years to bloom. Home propagation generally does not use this method; garden departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
How to grow bleeding heart: key care points for bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is a perennial herbaceous flowering plant. Because its flowers are delicate, colorful, and highly ornamental, and it can be planted both in the ground and in pots, it is very popular. So, how do you grow bleeding heart? Below, we introduce relevant knowledge about cultivating bleeding heart.
How to grow bleeding heart
1. Potting soil. Bleeding heart can be planted in the ground or in pots. For home cultivation, potting is generally the main method, and it is best to choose a slightly deep, large earthenware pot with good permeability. If using plastic or porcelain pots, place a layer of crushed charcoal pieces or crushed hard plastic foam pieces at the bottom of the pot to enhance air permeability and drainage. It likes to grow in loam rich in humus. You can use equal parts leaf mold and garden topsoil mixed as the growing medium. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil.
2. Water and fertilizer. Bleeding heart has fleshy roots, is somewhat drought-tolerant, and fears waterlogging. Therefore, water it appropriately according to factors such as the weather, the moisture condition of the potting soil, and the plant's growth. Adhere to the principle of "do not water if not dry, water as soon as it dries, water thoroughly when watering, and do not let water accumulate." On sunny days during the growing periods in spring, autumn, and early summer, water once daily or every other day; on cloudy days, water once every 3 to 5 days. Keeping the potting soil half-moist is beneficial to its growth. Too wet easily causes root rot; too dry causes poor growth and yellow leaves. During the dormant periods in midsummer and winter, the potting soil should be relatively drier, just slightly moist.
Bleeding heart likes fertilizer. When potting or repotting and changing soil, it is advisable to add some bone meal or decomposed organic fertilizer or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer to the growing medium. During the growing period, apply a dilute nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium liquid fertilizer once every 10 to 15 days to make its leaves lush and flowers abundant. Stop fertilizing after the flower buds show color. Do not fertilize during the dormant period.
3. Light and temperature. Bleeding heart originates from Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light and is relatively cold-tolerant, but fears midsummer heat and high temperatures and fears strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it should be placed under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormant period, place it in a well-ventilated shady spot where it cannot receive direct light, and frequently sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
4. Propagation. There are three propagation methods for bleeding heart: First, the most commonly used division method. In early spring in February, when new buds are stirring but new leaves have not yet unfolded, take the plant out of the pot, shake off the soil from the roots, use a sharp knife to cut off the tender tillering stems with fibrous roots around the root, plant two or three plants in one pot, cover with soil 2 to 3 cm above the old soil mark, water, and place in a shady spot. After new leaves grow, manage as usual, and it can bloom that year. Two points should be noted for division: 1. It must be done at the right time. If the old plant's new leaves have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. 2. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years; it cannot be done every year. Second, the cutting method. After the flowers fade, cut off the inflorescence, and 7 to 10 days later cut 10 cm to 15 cm healthy branches with axillary buds from the lower part, dip the cut ends in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert them into plain soil, water, and place in a shady spot. Frequently mist the cuttings, but control watering of the potting soil; keep it slightly moist but not dry. Roots can form in about a month. In the following spring, plant them in pots with soil. With good management, they can bloom that year. Third, sowing. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are collected, but seedlings take 3 years to bloom. Home propagation generally does not use this method; garden departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid varieties.
Key care points for bleeding heart
1. Water and fertilizer
Bleeding heart has fleshy roots, is somewhat drought-tolerant, and fears waterlogging. Therefore, water it appropriately according to factors such as the weather, the moisture condition of the potting soil, and the plant's growth. Adhere to the principle of "do not water if not dry, water as soon as it dries, water thoroughly when watering, and do not let water accumulate." On sunny days during the growing periods in spring, autumn, and early summer, water once daily or every other day; on cloudy days, water once every 3 to 5 days. Keeping the potting soil half-moist is beneficial to its growth. Too wet easily causes root rot; too dry causes poor growth and yellow leaves. During the dormant periods in midsummer and winter, the potting soil should be relatively drier, just slightly moist.
Bleeding heart likes fertilizer. When potting or repotting and changing soil, it is advisable to add some bone meal or decomposed organic fertilizer or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer to the growing medium. During the growing period, apply a dilute nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium liquid fertilizer once every 10 to 15 days to make its leaves lush and flowers abundant. Stop fertilizing after the flower buds show color. Do not fertilize during the dormant period.
2. Light and temperature
Bleeding heart originates from Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light and is relatively cold-tolerant, but fears midsummer heat and high temperatures and fears strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it should be placed under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormant period, place it in a well-ventilated shady spot where it cannot receive direct light, and frequently sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
3. Summer and drainage
Bleeding heart cannot tolerate prolonged rain and excessive moisture or hot midsummer weather. Long periods of high temperature and high humidity will cause leaf scorch and root rot. During the heat of midsummer, potted bleeding heart can be moved under a seedling shed for shade, or buried together in the soil to prevent heat and lower temperature, while maintaining good drainage and ventilation. When there is no rain, spray the branches, leaves, and surrounding area every day to increase air humidity and ensure water supply during the flower bud differentiation period. In the rainy season, pay attention to drainage. On cloudy and rainy days, turn the flower pots upside down to prevent water accumulation in the pots.
4. Pruning and overwintering
To improve ventilation and light transmission for bleeding heart and concentrate nutrients, shaping and pruning should also be carried out after leaf fall in autumn and winter. Cut off overly dense branches, such as parallel branches, crossing branches, inward-growing branches, and diseased or pest-damaged branches, so that the plant maintains a beautiful shape. In late autumn and early winter, potted peonies can be buried in the soil with the branches exposed above the ground, and covered with grass or mounded soil for overwintering protection. Some also place the flower pots directly in cellars to overwinter. In the following spring, remove the covering, move them out of the cellar, place them in a ventilated, sunny spot, and strengthen fertilizer and water management; let them bloom naturally. Some also place them in greenhouses or plastic tunnels to force early blooming according to holiday needs.
The above is the relevant knowledge introduced for everyone about cultivating bleeding heart. Is everyone clear now? For more home knowledge, please stay tuned.
Key points for cutting management of bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to China, Siberia, and Japan. Because of its special appearance and certain medicinal value, it is deeply popular. There is more and more artificial cultivation of bleeding heart, so how should friends who want to propagate bleeding heart carry out cuttings?
Bleeding heart
1. Cutting medium:Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
2. Cutting time:Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the soil temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
3. Cutting methods:
1. Bud cutting: select branches with relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, cut between nodes, and use each node with a section of branch about 2 cm long as a cutting. Remove some small leaves, insert flat into the medium to a depth of 5 cm, with the leaves exposed above the soil surface. Plant spacing and row spacing: 5 cm x 10 cm.
2. Softwood cutting: select fully developed branches, cut off the inflorescence, cut into sections of 2 to 3 nodes each, with each section about 10 cm long. Keep one leaf at the upper end and remove some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and small leaves exposed above the soil surface. Plant spacing and row spacing: 10 cm x 10 cm.
4. Management after insertion:After insertion, water thoroughly once with a fine-spout watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Set up a low arched frame over the bed, cover it with plastic film, and cover with grass curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Control the temperature at about 25°C. If it is too high, ventilate appropriately to cool it down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the film and grass curtains. In the following spring, they can be transplanted and planted out, and they will bloom that year.