How to propagate grape ivy by cuttings? Detailed introduction to the propagation method
Grape ivy likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. It is native to the tropical regions of the Americas and is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Grape ivy can not only be used as an ornamental plant, but can also be made into potted plants for viewing. It has a strong ability to adapt to light. If you want to propagate grape ivy artificially, you can use the cutting propagation method.
Grape ivy
Grape ivy can be propagated by softwood cuttings. Select one-year-old semi-lignified shoot tips or side branches as cuttings, and cut off the lower 2 to 3 leaves of the cuttings to reduce water evaporation. Use an equal mix of peat soil and sand as the cutting medium. Keep the medium temperature at 25 to 30°C, and roots will form in 10 days. It is best to carry out the cuttings in August. The cut cuttings can also be promoted to root by the water-soaking method, and care should be taken to keep the water clean.
Cutting and propagation techniques for climbing roses
Climbing roses are climbing shrubs of the genus Rosa in the subfamily Rosoideae, and the plants are relatively tall. Each year they send out thick new shoots from the base, and thicker lateral branches grow from the tips of the two-year-old climbing branches.
Climbing roses are mainly propagated by cuttings, but superior varieties are difficult to root from cuttings, so grafting is more often used in production. In the Nanjing area, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis is often used as the rootstock. Thornless roses have well-developed root systems, and grafting onto thornless roses as the rootstock is best; branch, bud and root grafting are all possible. Branch grafting is mostly done in late November by digging out the rootstock and grafting indoors (planted in a seedbed of wet sand, no watering is needed within 10 days, and they can survive in 20 days), or by field grafting in early spring. Bud grafting can be carried out in all four seasons, and the large open-door shape is commonly used.
1. Climbing rose cutting method:Softwood cuttings are carried out in late spring or early autumn. If a misting system is used, survival is even easier, and it can be done in all four seasons, but rooting is easiest when the soil temperature is 20.5°C, the air temperature is 10°C, and the relative humidity is 70% to 80%.
2. Climbing rose grafting method:The rootstock is mostly wild rose seedlings. January to February is the suitable grafting period, and the main grafting methods are bud grafting and branch grafting.
3. Climbing rose tissue culture:Mostly select the 3rd to 7th nodes of semi-lignified branches just after flowering, remove the leaves on the branches, and after disinfection cut them into single-bud stem segments for culture.
For transplanting and establishing climbing roses, bare-root seedlings are best planted in late autumn or early spring. Potted seedlings taken out of their pots can be planted during the growing season, but planting in the rainy season is best. For establishment, choose a sunny, well-ventilated place with good drainage. After digging the hole, apply heavy base fertilizer; after planting, water thoroughly. Afterwards, water when the soil is dry. In the rainy season, avoid waterlogging and pay attention to timely drainage. In hot summers during drought, it is best to water in the evening.
During the new shoot growth period, frequently apply a dilute liquid fertilizer of a 1:1:2 (or 3) nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound, and avoid concentrated fertilizer. You can also use 0.1% to 0.3% urea and monopotassium phosphate combined with trace elements for foliar spraying in the morning and evening. Among these, repeat-flowering varieties should have their flowering branches cut back to 3 to 5 buds in time after flowering, to encourage new branches to continue flowering.
After old branches have flowered for several years, the "remove the old and keep the new" method of pruning should be used to renew them. For climbing varieties such as "Climbing Crimson Glory", pruning should be light, cutting back each branch to 10-12 buds. If too few buds are kept, the new branches will inevitably grow too vigorously and affect flowering.
In spring and autumn, aphids often harm the young shoots and leaves, and during the growing season leafcutter bees bite the leaves into round holes; sprays such as dimethoate can be used for control. From June to August, the leaves are prone to black spot disease, which is most severe during the high-temperature and rainy period from July to August and easily causes leaf drop. This disease should be prevented mainly, and in warm spring, spray once a week for 3 consecutive weeks with a 1:1:200 Bordeaux mixture or 200 times copper soap solution for prevention.
When the disease occurs, spray once a week with 800 to 1000 times thiophanate-methyl solution or 400 times Tuzet; collect and burn the diseased leaves. In the rainy season, powdery mildew is likely to occur, causing leaf drop. Before budding, spray 3 to 5 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture. When the disease occurs, spray once a week with 800 to 1000 times 50% zineb or an equal-strength Bordeaux mixture, for 3 consecutive sprays.
Climbing roses have many flowers and bright colors, blooming all over the plant with numerous flower heads, and are very spectacular. In gardens, they are mostly trained onto various well-ventilated trellises and corridors, and can form landscapes such as flower balls, flower columns, flower walls, flower seas, arch shapes and corridor shapes.
Cultivation and management of grape ivy (photo)
Plant name: grape ivyAliases: Cissus rhombifolia, false ivy, self morning glory (Chaoshan), night morning glory, step-by-step green (Puning), bone-setting vine (Chaoyang), single-foot black button, white-powder apricot (Guangzhou).
Latin name: Cissusdiscolor
Family name: Vitaceae
Genus name: Cissus
Adapted regions: native to the tropical regions of the Americas, widely distributed in tropical to temperate regions of the world
Ecological classification: herbaceous plants > perennial evergreen herbaceous flowers
Ornamental classification: foliage plants
Height range: unknown
Morphological characteristics: perennial trailing herb. It has tuberous roots underground. The stems and leaves are powdery green. The stem is round and thick with nodes; it has a powdery bloom, about more than one zhang long, and has tendrils to cling to other objects. The leaves are simple and alternate, with long petioles; the leaf blade is heart-shaped, about three cun long, with an acuminate apex, a narrow heart-shaped base, and sparse sharp shallow serrations at the margin; the veins on the back are prominent. In summer and autumn it produces small pale green flowers in small cymes, and the calyx is small and truncate. The berry is fleshy and contains one seed.
Growth habits: it likes a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. There are about 200 species in the same genus, and a few species are cultivated as ornamental plants. Besides grape ivy, there is also painted grape ivy, etc.
Propagation and cultivation: grape ivy is propagated by cuttings. Usually in spring, summer and autumn, select one-year-old semi-lignified shoot tips or side branches as cuttings. Cut them 10-15 cm long, cut off half of the lower leaves, and insert them into a medium mixed with vermiculite or peat soil and coarse sand, keeping the temperature at 25-30°C. After about 10 days they can root. The cuttings can also be placed in water (taking care to keep the water clean), and potted after rooting.
For potted grape ivy, 3 parts garden soil and 2 parts leaf mold mixed together can be used as the medium, or peat soil and leaf mold plus 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as the medium. For old plants that have been cultivated for many years, repotting can be carried out in early spring before the new buds grow abundantly, combined with heavy pruning. When repotting, remove some old roots and old potting soil, and repot with new soil. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks. In summer, watering should alternate between dry and wet, and it is best to mist the leaves every day to promote growth; in winter, watering should be slightly reduced to prevent leaf curling and red spider mite damage; in other seasons, the potting soil should also be kept moist regularly. Grape ivy is suited to a bright light environment, and can also adapt to darker places; it avoids direct sunlight, and if strong light shines directly, scorched brown spots will appear. It can generally grow at room temperature, and can still be seen growing at 10-16°C. But when the winter temperature is below 5°C, it is prone to cold damage, and the leaves turn yellow, lose their luster, and even fall off. The diseases of grape ivy are commonly powdery mildew, mostly caused by excessive watering and poor ventilation, and special attention should be paid in production relations in winter. For home cultivation, clean the leaf surface once every 2-3 weeks to remove smoke and dust and keep the leaves shiny. This plant often grows very fast, and the branches are too long, so the messy branches should be pruned frequently and the branches guided to extend, so as to maintain a good plant shape.
Landscape uses: small and medium pots planted for hanging cultivation; the leaf color is deep green and glossy, and the young buds are covered with silvery white soft hairs, full of a romantic and free-spirited mood, used to beautify the study, living room and bedroom, etc.; a support can also be set up to let it grow twining around the support, very full of wild charm and quite ornamental. It has a strong ability to adapt to light, and can be enjoyed indoors with bright scattered light all year round, and can also be displayed continuously in a dark room for 4-6 weeks or longer.