Analysis of Nine Major Reasons for Yellowing Leaves of Household Potted Flowers
Friends who like potted flowers may notice that potted flowers kept at home are more prone to yellowing leaves than flowers grown in the open field. But what exactly causes this? The editor will analyze the more common reasons for you, and flower lovers troubled by this problem can learn about them together.
Jasmine (detailed introduction)
One reason is excessive moisture. When the potting soil is too wet for a long time, the soil becomes oxygen-deficient, causing root rot. After being affected, the young leaves first turn pale yellow, and then the old leaves gradually turn dark yellow as well.
The second reason is drought and dehydration. Missing watering or long-term half-watering, that is, wet on top and dry below, will cause the leaves to become dull and lusterless, and the leaves to wilt and droop. The lower leaves age first, and turn yellow and scorched from bottom to top.
The third reason is long-term lack of fertilizer. If no fertilizer is applied for a long time or the potting soil is not changed, nutrients in the soil become deficient, causing the branches and leaves to become weak and the leaves to turn yellow.
The fourth reason is excessive fertilization. If the fertilizer concentration is too high, it causes the root cell fluid to seep out, producing plasmolysis, which causes the edges of the old leaves to scorch, and even the whole plant to die.
The fifth reason is hot high temperatures. Cool-loving or shade-loving flowers such as clivia, cyclamen, and fuchsia (detailed introduction), if placed in a high-temperature spot and exposed to direct sunlight, are very likely to develop scorched tips or scorched edges on young leaves.
The sixth reason is excessive shading. If light-loving flowers are placed in a place with insufficient light, the plants will grow weakly, with thin and yellow leaves, and they will bloom rarely or not at all.
The seventh reason is dry air. For flowers that like a humid environment, if the air is too dry, the leaf tips or leaf edges will scorch, or scorch spots will appear on the leaves, and the edges will curl.
The eighth reason is nutrient deficiency. Deficiency symptoms such as potassium deficiency and magnesium deficiency can also cause leaf yellowing.
The ninth reason is damage from pests and diseases. For example, leaf spot disease, when severe, causes entire leaves to wither, yellow, and fall off. Damage from red spider mites causes part or even all of a leaf to wither and yellow.
Reasons and solutions for yellowing leaves of the giant spider lily, and solutions for root rot
The giant spider lily is one of the common flowers in our home cultivation. They have graceful flowers, a faint fresh fragrance, and emerald green leaves. The giant spider lily is a flower with relatively high ornamental value, and it is especially beautiful when in full bloom. It can also develop yellowing leaves and root rot. Today, the editor will take everyone to learn about it together.
Reasons for yellowing leaves
1. Too little watering, causing the soil to become too dry and not breathable, so that the leaves dry up.
2. Too much watering, causing root rot in the giant spider lily. The root system cannot absorb water, and the leaves wither and yellow.
Solutions
1. The giant spider lily likes warm and humid areas, is slightly tolerant of shade and cold, but is not cold-resistant. The suitable growing temperature is 15-20°C. During its growth period, it needs a large amount of fertilizer and a large amount of water. Especially before and after flowering and during the flowering period, it needs sufficient water and fertilizer supplements every day.
2. If the leaves of the giant spider lily grow too long, it will become top-heavy and nutrients will not keep up. At this time, the potting soil needs to be changed, and a larger pot should be used, so that its root development has more sufficient space and water, and thus it will grow robustly and produce clusters of emerald green.
Methods for judging root rot
1. Potting soil
For flowers and trees that can grow normally in summer and autumn, water once a day. If the potting soil dries out, it indicates normal conditions. If it remains moist, then root rot has already occurred. If the potting soil still appears moist after not watering for several days, then most of the root area has already rotted.
2. Leaf color
If there are several pots of the same kind of flower, and when placed together one pot is found to have lost its luster or to be wilted, then root rot has occurred.
3. Leaf shape
If the leaves are wrinkled and deformed, it indicates that the root system has already rotted. Because of the rot, the leaves cannot obtain water and nutrients, and gradually wither.
Solutions
If the roots of the giant spider lily have rotted, it is not easy to cure. Pull the plant out of the pot, quickly cut off the rotted root parts, use potassium permanganate for disinfection, and repot it for planting. If only a small amount has rotted, the above method can be used, and after about three days it can be replanted and cared for normally. During its growth period, be sure to keep water and fertilizer sufficient, and do not water frequently or fertilize too much.
The above is the related knowledge I have compiled about yellowing leaves and root rot in the giant spider lily. I hope it can be helpful to the many flower lovers, and please continue to follow Succulent Garden to learn more about flower care knowledge.
Why the leaves of the lucky bamboo cage turn yellow
The lucky bamboo cage is a cage-shaped indoor decorative potted flower made and cultivated from lucky bamboo. But it is common that a newly purchased lucky bamboo cage has yellowing leaves within a few days at home. The reasons are roughly as follows: 1. Some sellers, in order to meet urgent market demand, use leafless lucky bamboo stems with leaves at the top to weave good-looking lucky bamboo cage products, or although they have roots, they have just been woven and potted, and the damaged root tissue has not repaired or has no new roots, so it cannot adapt to external environmental conditions such as high temperature and high dryness. 2. Lucky bamboo likes moisture and fertilizer, likes warmth and fears cold. The suitable growth temperature is 20°C to 25°C, and in winter it cannot be lower than 5°C. It likes to grow in an environment with bright scattered light and fears strong direct light. If the substrate is too dry, concentrated fertilizer damages the roots, or cold water is suddenly poured under relatively high temperature conditions, the root system will be damaged. Frequently not applying fertilizer leads to nutrient deficiency; placing it for a long time under relatively low temperature conditions and then suddenly moving it to a high-temperature room, as well as light that is too dark and insufficient photosynthesis, etc. 3. The air at the placement location is turbid and oxygen-deficient, the fruit smell is too strong, or toxic substances in the substrate accumulate too much and cannot be discharged, causing root rot, etc. 4. Yellowing leaves are caused by too low content of cytokinins, auxins, etc. in the leaves, too high content of abscisic acid, ethylene, etc., too rapid degradation of proteins, nucleic acids, and chloroplasts, respiration consuming amino acids and causing ammonia accumulation, as well as lack of ATP, etc.In view of the above reasons, when purchasing a lucky bamboo cage, in addition to the leaves needing to be emerald green, you should also check whether there are new roots (tender white root tips) and whether there is disease. If keeping a lucky bamboo cage at home, the following methods can be used to prevent leaf yellowing: 1 . Keep the room temperature no lower than 5°C to 10°C, irrigate the roots once every 10 to 15 days with potassium permanganate solution (0.1% to 0.3%), preferably with warm water 5°C higher than the substrate, or spray the leaf surface with warm water 7°C to 8°C higher than the air temperature, and apply 0.2% urea water or extremely dilute cake fertilizer water once every 5 to 10 days, to ensure healthy growth of the plant. 2. Every day, use edible vinegar at 5 to 10 milliliters per kilogram of water plus warm water to spray the leaf surface, or once every three days spray the leaf surface with a mixed solution containing glucurolactone tablets (glucuronolactone tablets) at 3 milligrams per kilogram of water and ferrous sulfate at 0.4%. 3. Spray the leaf surface once a week with cytokinin 400 ppm solution or Yunda 120 containing brassinolide at 1000 times dilution. When the leaves are not yellowing, it can be mixed with 0.2% urea water for spraying, but when they are yellowing it cannot be; cytokinin and Yunda 120 can also be mixed in the above proportions and sprayed. The above methods can also be used in combination, but when leaf yellowing is severe, the severely affected ones should be removed, and method 3 can reverse slightly yellowing leaves. In addition, note that the lucky bamboo cage should not be exposed to too much sun, especially strong direct light.
.