Artificial Propagation Methods and Key Technical Points for Caesalpinia pulcherrima

Caesalpinia pulcherrima, also known as golden peacock flower, is a tropical tree species suited to hot and humid climates. Because of its low cold tolerance, when cultivating Caesalpinia pulcherrima artificially, care must be taken to check whether open-field planting suits its growth habits. Propagating Caesalpinia pulcherrima artificially is not difficult, but its growth habits need to be clearly understood, so that the survival rate of propagation can be greatly increased.

Caesalpinia pulcherrima

Caesalpinia pulcherrima is commonly propagated from seed. From mid-June to mid-December, the pods mature successively, with September to October as the peak ripening period. Collect pods that mature at the peak period, expose them to sunlight, and after they split open, extract the seeds. They can be sown immediately after collection, with the seedlings protected from cold to overwinter, or the seeds can be stored for spring sowing the following year. The 1000-seed weight is about 132 g. The temperature at germination must be above 20°C, and sowing in mid-to-late March in spring is preferable. Before sowing, soak the seeds in 60°C warm water, then continue soaking for 12 hours after it cools. Germination is fast; generally germination begins three days after sowing and ends within one week, with a germination rate of about 60%.

With the drill sowing method, seedlings grow at a moderate rate. During the seedling stage, apply nitrogen fertilizer 2 to 3 times to push the seedlings along. After October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and apply potassium fertilizer consistently to promote early lignification. In winter, pay attention to covering to prevent frost. One-year-old seedlings can leave the nursery for field planting, and two-year-old young trees can bloom for ornamental display.

Planting Methods for Several Common Flowers

Planting Methods for Several Common Flowers
1. Iris japonica
Iris japonica is a perennial herb in the genus Iris of the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in nearly every province and region of the country, and is also found in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, shallow in the soil, creeping horizontally, and yellow-brown. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, and glossy. The flower stalks rise above the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. There are 3 style branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like forms, reflexed and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower colors of this species are light purple or light blue. It is suitable for naturalistic planting, and also for flower borders, flower beds, and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady and damp places, has strong adaptability and cold tolerance, and when cultivated in the open field in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither when overwintering. It requires acidic soil and grows well in moist, fertile soil and a sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, as it favors full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Divide the dug-out rhizomes and replant each section with 1 to 2 buds. For seed propagation, germination occurs 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and flowering only occurs 2 to 3 years after sowing.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. After planting, press the rhizomes firm. Shallow planting is advisable, not deep planting. In early spring, remove dead leaves to help new buds sprout. During vigorous growth, water thoroughly, and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month to promote abundant flowers and lush leaves. During flowering, keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging. After flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which benefits rhizome development. After the flowers fade and the rhizomes enter dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by the larvae of the noctuid moth, and can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. During the growing period, slugs and snails may also cause damage; spray with 3% limewater in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around the front and back of a farmhouse both improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard becomes a feast for the eyes.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees as specimen plants or in facing pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement. In damp shady spots by the wall, plant shade-tolerant flowers such as Iris japonica (commonly known as butterfly flower) and begonias, which will grow well without intensive management. For potted flowers on the balcony, choosing compact Aglaia odorata or Chinese rose is more suitable. On the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and salvia can be planted, and ample sunlight will make them grow better. Cacti and Sansevieria on the roof still grow well even without care for a long time. For places needing shade, by all means plant a few grapevines, morning glories, or Boston ivy in front of the window or along the fence. Even indoors, a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern or orchids can be placed on a desk or tea table, making the farmhouse courtyard colorful and full of life!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant in the family Asteraceae, with the whole plant densely covered in soft hairs and leaves in whorls of three forming a triangular shape. The leaves resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and rich, including a blue flower rarely seen indoors; the flowering period is also long, lasting about 6 months. It is an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, Spring Festival, and May Day, and is a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering, so the following key technical measures in cineraria cultivation must be mastered.
Sowing time: Generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures. The moderate growth temperature is 15°C to 20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade awning or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, a shade awning must be built above the bed soil to reduce solar radiant heat.
Seedling moisture control: This is mainly done by spraying water mist to lower the seedbed temperature and supply moisture to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil must not be allowed to become too dry, nor too wet. If too dry, wilted seedlings are difficult to revive; if too wet, and the seedlings are in a high-temperature period, they are prone to damping-off, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being suitable. When preparing culture soil for sowing, be sure to mix unpolluted leaf mold or wood ash, pure loess, and fine sand in a 3:1:1 ratio, then sieve, and add no fertilizer. Culture soil prepared this way is beneficial for seed germination and growth. Overly sticky culture soil cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the fine roots of the seedlings, leading to seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after pricking out can be the same as that used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting up, evenly mix bean cake, bone meal, or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake, and fine sand mixed in a 3:2:2:1:1 ratio to prepare the culture soil, ensuring a sufficient supply of nutrients for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed, and sun-dried; rapeseed cake must be crushed, and after thorough stirring and mixing, sieved before use as culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria likes a cool climate, fears cold in winter and high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintained above 10°C, and the room temperature should often be kept around 15°C for good growth. In summer, place the sowing box under a shade awning, or set up a sowing bed under the shade awning, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m., which is more suitable. Never water at noon, so that the seedlings can pass through the high-temperature period smoothly.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to keep humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating cineraria. If too dry, the leaves of cineraria are often in a wilted state, which is unfavorable for leaf growth, easily turns the leaves yellow, and also easily produces spider mites and aphids. If watered too much and indoor humidity is too high, it easily causes root, main stem, and leaf rot, and also easily produces aphids; if the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are likely to occur.
3. Corn Poppy
Corn poppy, also known as Lichunhua and Manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower in the genus Papaver of the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm. The stems are slender, with weak branches. The leaves are alternate, irregularly pinnately lobed, serrate, with sparse hairs on the whole plant and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the tips of branches, with long pedicels; the buds droop, then straighten when the flowers open. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white, and tricolor. The flowers last only 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are numerous and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, and the fruit ripening period is July. The seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold tolerant and suited to ample spring light and a cool climate, and cannot tolerate severe summer heat and humidity. It is usually drill-sown in flowerbed plots in early winter. It has no strict soil requirements, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface soil has just thawed, and gradually remove the plastic film after seedlings emerge. Corn poppy is a taproot flower, with fine, deep, long roots and few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, root length often exceeds plant height by about 1 times, so it cannot be transplanted. Even if transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is very low. When drill-sown seedlings are relatively dense, thin them 2 to 3 times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy has low water and fertilizer requirements, but avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders, and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January and moved out in late April for May Day holiday flowers. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press flat, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just enough that the seeds are no longer visible, and after sowing, soak the pot in water to moisten it. When seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep light ample and the air fresh, with nighttime temperatures not below 5°C, avoid drought and waterlogging, and they can bloom in March until May Day.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other in appearance but also sharing the same habits. The only differences are that opium poppy has a larger plant form and fruit and is covered all over, while corn poppy is smaller and covered all over with sparse hairs. However, corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy contains milky sap, its components do not contain laudanum; its flowers can be made into a gargle with antitussive effects, and its milky sap has analgesic and antidiarrheal effects. On a warm spring day, patches of corn poppy in the courtyard green space compete in blooming, like rosy clouds and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs. When the breeze stirs them, both people and flowers feel as if floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is an herbaceous plant in the genus Calceolaria of the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, creamy white, orange-red, and dark brown, and the flowers are adorned with colored spots and markings, very lovely, and often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and under greenhouse cultivation the flowering period is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the Mexico and Chile region. It likes cool and humid conditions, and can grow indoors in winter at 3°C to 6°C. During the growing period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained, ventilation should be noted, and ample light is beneficial for flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Calceolaria likes cool conditions, with an optimum growth temperature of about 10°C. If stems and leaves grow luxuriantly during the growing period, while the potting soil is too wet plus sultry, the stem base of the plant will rot. To lower the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring until seeds mature in May to June, ventilation work should be done even better, and shading at noon helps the seeds develop and mature.
Watering and fertilizing: Calceolaria likes a warm and humid environment, but avoids overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequent spraying to increase air humidity is even better. Do not pour water directly onto the plant; if water accumulates on leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. During the pre-flowering growing season, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. Fertilizing must not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid rotting the heart and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be done after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, in August to September, because seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot during high temperatures. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with water by the soaking method, and then sow. Calceolaria seeds are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder granules. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, place the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not sow too densely, otherwise the seedlings will grow slender and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it is also fine not to cover with soil). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place in a cool place, keep the temperature at about 20°C, and emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and gradually let them receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to about 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. After they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. For the culture soil, mix 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH of 6.5. From November to December, they can be potted into large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named because its inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30 to 50 cm. The stem is erect, with the upper part flattened, green or red. The leaves are alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate, or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, and petiolate. The spike is terminal, with a flattened, fleshy rachis in the shape of a cockscomb, yellow, white, or red-purple, with a velvety sheen. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-seed weight of 0.85 g. It is used for flower beds and flower borders, can also be potted, and is also fairly good as a cut flower; the vase life can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely hen-and-chickens cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden plume cockscomb, and fox-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20 to 30 cm), medium-stem types (40 to 60 cm), and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are early-flowering and late-flowering differences. The colors range from very pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow and brown yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange red to purple red, and there are also bicolor forms such as sprinkled gold and Erqiao, mixed with yellow and red series.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot and dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil with smaller inflorescences. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: Sow in open-field seedbeds in spring from March to April. When sowing, do not cover with soil; after covering with grass, water to keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when 2 leaves have grown. When seedlings grow to 5 to 10 cm, plant out or pot up. No fertilizer is needed during the seedling stage, otherwise side branches grow vigorously and affect main branch development. After the cockscomb forms, apply thin fertilizer to promote growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so seed selection must be carefully done every year when saving seed.
The flowering period of cockscomb can be regulated by controlling the sowing date. Generally, sowing can be done from March to June, and sowing is carried out according to flower use needs to meet holiday flower demand.
Growth habits: It likes a warm and dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict soil requirements. It can be planted in ordinary soil courtyards, and is a new pathway for developing courtyard economies at present; people with insight may wish to try it.
Propagation and cultivation: By the seed propagation method, select a good plot around Qingming, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow fine and harrow evenly, level and make beds, scatter the seeds evenly on the bed surface, cover lightly so the seeds are just covered, firm the soil and water thoroughly. Generally at a temperature of 15 to 20°C, seedlings emerge in 10 to 15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them to a plant spacing of 20 cm; the thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, be sure to weed and loosen the soil, and when it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply one topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately, and in the rainy season strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to concentrate nutrients in the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs during the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growing period, cotton leafworm is likely to occur; spraying the leaf surface with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvest and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stalks can be cut in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them in late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy. Store in bags.
6. Garden Balsam
Garden balsam is also called fingernail plant, Tougucao, Jinfenghua, and Sajinhua. It is native to China and India, and can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25 to 35 cm tall. The flowers are white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc., and the flower forms include single and double, making it a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C to 30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C to 32°C. Flowering period: May to July, December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment. Among factors such as temperature, light, water, and growing medium, temperature is the most important factor affecting flower growth. If an air conditioner or heater is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by season, but after emergence, the plants must be placed by a sunny window to let them receive as much ample sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Good, now it is time to prepare for sowing. Please confirm once more before sowing: are the conditions required for seed germination and growth now available?
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that the surface of the flower seeds can be covered with at most only a thin layer of soil, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (be as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, germination will become difficult.
2. Adjust the watering can to the mist setting and spray an appropriate amount of water on them;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic film to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place away from light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout unfolds symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic film) and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, paying attention to temperature changes, and not watering excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully unfolded and turned green, gradually increase the duration of direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it in all-day direct sunlight, pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, and water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it shows that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow vigorously.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, weak, and prone to lodging. The light duration should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves receive sunlight from every angle and grow fully
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one cun, keep the robust plants and "move house" for the rest - repot them
2. When repotting, be careful not to damage the fine roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a hole of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system spread fully, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, keep it somewhat drier, with the surface soil dry and the interior still moist, which is better;
2. Water as much as possible in the morning, avoiding sunlight
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in tap water
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-spout pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around the perimeter and less near the plant, and trying not to splash it on the leaves and stems.;
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root vegetable crop in the genus Lilium. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of cultivating lilies, but due to long-term mixed varieties and extensive cultivation management, unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be made in cultivation.
1. Site selection: It is suitable to choose acidic sandy loam with ample sunlight, deep soil layers, convenient drainage and irrigation, and a pH of 5.7 to 6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop should preferably be a legume or grass family plant, and crop rotation should be practiced; continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selecting good varieties: There are many lily varieties, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily, and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth, and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30 to 50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs are prone to carrying diseases, so robust bulbs with no rotten base, no disease spots, and no mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and less disease infection. Planting in the current year allows harvest the following year. If seed sources are insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, broadcast about 100 kg of lime per mu in August, deep-plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30 to 40 kg of potassium sulfate compound fertilizer per mu, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m and the bed height is 20 to 30 cm, ensuring no waterlogging. Then open furrows for planting. Apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake, and other organic fertilizers at the bottom of the furrow, 1200 to 1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant. Seed bulbs must not contact organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, lilies turn yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The planting density is 30 x 20 cm, the seed bulb amount per mu is 125 to 150 kg, and the harvest amount after one year of planting is 4 to 6 times the seed bulb amount.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them in the shade and sow. After emergence, use 80% mancozeb at 1000 times, or 25% carbendazim at 1000 times, or 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600 to 800 times, rotating use once every 7 to 10 days, and spray continuously 2 to 3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, use 50% phoxim emulsion or 50% fenaminosulf mixed into poisoned soil, and spread it evenly into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray 10% imidacloprid wettable powder at 2000 times, once every 7 to 10 days.
5. Timely harvest: Harvest can be done every year from July to August. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before Start of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in late autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low, so the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are kept whole as seed.
8. Bleeding Heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with ample scattered light and is relatively cold tolerant, but fears midsummer severe heat and high temperatures and fears strong direct sunlight. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east- or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormant period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, where it cannot receive direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold tolerant, avoids high temperatures, likes shady and humid environments and loose, fertile neutral soil; both sandy soil and clay soil are poor for growth. By midsummer the stems and leaves turn yellow and it enters dormancy. It goes dormant in hot summer. It cannot tolerate drought and likes moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. Both sandy soil and clay soil are poor for growth. It avoids direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually yellow and it becomes dormant.
Propagation of bleeding heart:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings, and sowing can all be used.
Bleeding heart division propagation method.
It is suitable to do this in early spring in February after the buds begin to swell and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a prepared seedbed, covering with 2 to 3 cm of soil, watering thoroughly, and placing in a shady place. Division can also be done after the plant enters dormancy in late autumn, similar to early spring division. Timing must be appropriate. If the new leaves of the old plant have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the dormant period in late autumn, but the survival rate is not high. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The common method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the growth direction, with each piece carrying 3 to 5 buds, and replant. They can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can develop in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart cutting propagation method
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July each year. At this time there is more rain, and the soil temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are fully developed and have relatively plump axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each about 10 to 15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end, and remove some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and small leaves exposed above the soil surface, at a plant and row spacing of 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water, and place in a shady place. Frequently spray water on the cuttings, but restrict watering of the potting soil; just keep it slightly moist and not dry. Roots can form in more than a month. The following spring, pot up with soil for final planting. With good management, it can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil, but fertilizer must be avoided. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-spout watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Set up an arched frame over the bed, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Keep the temperature at about 25°C. If too high, ventilate appropriately to cool it down, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the frame film and straw curtains. The following spring, they can be transplanted for final planting and bloom in the same year.
Plant in March to April. Cuttings are mostly taken in late March, and sowing is mostly done in autumn. Field-grown bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summer, place in a semi-shady place, and in the rainy season take care to prevent water accumulation in the pot.
Alternatively, cut the rhizomes into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along the segments, and plant them separately. In addition, the rhizomes can be cut into sections, each with a bud eye, inserted into sand, and planted in pots after rooting. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Bleeding heart sowing propagation method.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then immediately scatter-sow them in a seedbed, water thoroughly, and seedlings can emerge in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through the winter. The following spring, plant out the robust young seedlings, with a plant and row spacing of 30 to 50 cm being suitable. Sown seedlings require 3 years to bloom.
Home propagation generally does not use this; garden departments use it only for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid cultivars.
Cultivation of bleeding heart
For field planting, choose a place with relatively high terrain. Before planting, deep-dig the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer; during the growing period, topdress in combination with irrigation; in high summer temperatures, when the stems and leaves yellow and it enters dormancy, the dead branches can be cut off, and watering thoroughly once before Frost's Descent helps prevent cold damage. For pot cultivation, use light culture soil with added fertilizer for potting, water thoroughly after planting, and keep it in a sunny place for care; during the growing period, provide sufficient fertilizer and water. Move it less during the flowering period, so as not to cause flower drop and affect ornamental value; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the spent flowers.
Management of bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is cold tolerant and likes shade, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, water once a week. During flower bud formation, apply decomposed fertilizer water 1 to 2 times. Do not water too much; keeping it moist is enough. During the growing period, apply aged urine diluted 5 times with water once every 2 to 3 weeks. If directly sown in a flower bed, thin when there are 5 leaves, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply aged urine diluted 3 times with water once more and wait for it to bloom. In July, cut off the black fruits, sun-dry them, and thresh to collect seeds
Pests and diseases of bleeding heart
For scale insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution to kill them; leaf spot disease sometimes occurs, and can be controlled by spraying 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution.
For leaf spot disease, spray 65% zineb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. For pest damage, there is damage from scale insects; spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to kill them.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant in the genus Hemerocallis of the family Liliaceae, is native to China, Japan, and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial garden flower.
Hemerocallis hybrida has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low cold, and adapts to a wide temperature range. It can be planted from south to north in our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil. Except for overly acidic, overly alkaline, overly sandy, and overly sticky soil, it can generally be cultivated. A pH between 6.5 and 7.5 is best.
Propagation methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to operate, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. For division, the entire mother clump can be dug out and replanted in divisions; or part of the plants can be dug out from one side of the mother clump as planting stock, while the remainder continues to grow.
Division is mostly carried out before sprouting in spring or after leaf fall in autumn. If divided and transplanted in spring, it can send up scapes and bloom in the same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, it can only send up scapes and bloom the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, good quality, and no pests or diseases.
When dividing, dig out part of the tillers from the clump as planting stock. The dug-out portion must have roots. Cut it apart from the shortened stem, remove old roots, dead roots, and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, and after shortening them appropriately (leaving about 10 cm), they can be planted. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging seedlings, dividing seedlings, and planting seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible, so that they recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous plant growth.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing seedlings in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and they can only be planted out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year, requiring robust plant growth, plump fruits, and no pests or diseases. Sow in spring of the following year.
The seedbed should first be given sufficient base fertilizer, with a bed width of 1.3 to 1.7 m and a length of about 30 m, and drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, and then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, and maintain good soil moisture. In autumn, the seedlings can be lifted and planted. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seeds and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
Seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm, and after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply once with dilute human urine and manure. For overwintering, use a small arched shed to protect against cold, strengthen field management after spring begins, and transplant in August. Seeds collected from evergreen daylily can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Division buds and flower buds refer to the small plants on the flower stems of large-flowered daylily. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems, and if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can take root in one week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increase the number planted, and ultimately improve economic returns.
Tissue culture uses young leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs to culture into plants. The method is to first induce the young organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them into young plantlets with an appropriate medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light and air. Then the plantlets are temporarily planted in nutrient pots, cultured for a period into young seedlings, and afterward planted in the field. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods introduced above, other methods can also be used to propagate large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corolla, use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Large-flowered daylily is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although large-flowered daylily is not strict about soil requirements, because it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to use flat land with a low groundwater table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil and deep soil layers. Newly opened wasteland must be fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land should be leveled. Because large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be kept at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting, with the holes in a triangular shape, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; too deep slows tillering, while too shallow tillers quickly but many grow thin and weak. Generally, the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied to 15 to 20 cm from the ground, and after planting the soil is covered and compacted. Use 500 to 600 kg per mu of human urine and manure mixed with water for spot application to set the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: Large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow manure or pig manure is suitable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote vigorous plant growth and enlarge leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, the plant tissues are tough, growth is vigorous, and disease resistance is strong; in the middle and late stages it can make the flower scapes emerge uniformly and thickly, the flower buds develop plump, and bud formation ability is enhanced. Therefore, topdressing is needed twice before and during flowering, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and nitrogen fertilizer must not be applied alone. Spraying 0.2% monopotassium phosphate can also be used to promote larger flowers? And can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: Large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance, and its water demand during the vegetative growth period is not large. Therefore, irrigation should be based on the water needs of daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, soil water-holding capacity should be maintained at 70% to 80%, and water should be given promptly in drought. At the seedling stage the plants are small, and water demand is also small. From reproductive growth onward, water demand gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage, the soil must be kept moist frequently to prevent flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Watering should be sufficient and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a large amount of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are needed. Before winter, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting and during the seedling stage, intertillage and weeding should be carried out in time. During the seedling stage, intertillage should be shallow rather than deep, and as the seedling age increases, intertillage should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil, and after emergence carry out timely shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times, which can achieve the dual purposes of weed control and drought prevention. Intertillage and weeding should be carried out when soil moisture is moderate, and can be stopped after the leaf clusters cover the land. Remove weeds in the daylily field in time; if weeds grow in clusters, they can easily cause pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of daylily.
Weeding can use traditional manual weeding or herbicides suitable for large-flowered daylily. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabuqing, is a selective pre-emergence stem and leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass, Bermuda grass, etc.; penoxalin, also known as amine nitro grass, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent and is very effective for pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaved weeds and certain broad-leaved weeds, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail, bluegrass and other annual grass weeds, and lambsquarters, amaranth, chickweed, galinsoga, mustard and other broad-leaved weeds; metolachlor, also known as isopropyl metolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, lovegrass and other annual grass weeds, and also controls some small-seeded broad-leaved weeds such as amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, galinsoga, chickweed, and rice flatsedge; it has poor control effect on perennial weeds and most broad-leaved weeds; fluazifop-buthyl is a post-emergence stem and leaf treatment herbicide, with good control effect on annual and perennial grass weeds, but ineffective on broad-leaved weeds and sedges. In addition, there are also Surflan, Snapshot, etc., all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot and leaf blight are diseases to which daylily is highly prone. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylily in the middle and late stages. It begins in early May, is most severe from June to July, and gradually stops only after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. At first a small number of yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the whole leaf, until the whole plant dies. When the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and fenaminosulf can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by Fusarium fungi and is the main disease of daylily at the seedling stage. It begins from late March to early April, with the peak from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the main vein of the leaf; after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, the leaf tip first turns yellow and withers, and finally the whole leaf becomes yellow and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May and is most severe in early to mid-June. It mainly damages leaves and also damages flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage onward: at the middle edge of the leaf, small water-soaked spots first appear, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, and finally becoming grayish white; in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 600 to 800 times dilution of 50% carbendazim, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main insect pests of daylily are red spiders and aphids. Red spiders are small red mites shaped like spiders, mainly piercing and sucking sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish-white small spots at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, etc. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on flower buds; damaged flower buds become thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate, 25% malathion emulsifiable oil, tobacco lime water, etc. In addition, in trials on large-flowered daylily propagation, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to large-flowered daylily, and control measures should be taken in time.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Amaryllis in the Amaryllidaceae family. The flower stems of amaryllis stand gracefully, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the appearance of amaryllis is very similar to clivia, it also has the elegant name "gentleman's red." Tianjin calls it "yanzhi xue," which captures the idea quite well. It is now widely cultivated around the world. In addition to potted ornamental use, it is also planted in open-ground courtyards to form community landscapes and add garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, for the convenience of flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, reached 19.1 million USD in amaryllis sales output value in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In China, during 1912-1949, Nanjing, Shanghai and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis, and in the 1970s it began to be planted around open-ground courtyards in southern China as landscape ornament. In recent years, many fine varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornament, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Commonly propagated by sowing and division.
Sowing propagation: sow indoors in pots from May to June. The suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. Pay attention to fertilizer and water management at the seedling stage. When there are 3 to 4 true leaves, carry out the first transplanting and maintain a certain plant spacing. It takes 3 to 4 years from sowing to flowering.
Division propagation: potted amaryllis is divided when repotting from February to March. Before dividing and planting, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size. Generally, flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Plant in March and flower from April to May.
In recent years, foreign countries have widely adopted scale cutting, scoring and tissue culture methods to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: select well-developed disease-free bulbs, peel off the excessively old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a basal plate. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed, keep moist at 18 to 20°C, and in that same year small bulbs form and roots develop at the base. The following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for another 3 years to become flowering bulbs.
Scoring propagation: select bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently score the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep room temperature at 18 to 22°C, maintain relatively high air humidity, and after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, use loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm need a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on 1/3 of the bulb being exposed above the pot soil. Water less at first planting; when flower stems or leaves appear, keep the pot soil moist. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, and after the flower stem is drawn out, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue supplying water and fertilizer to promote robust and plump bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis often uses forcing cultivation: flowering bulbs pretreated at low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of soil temperature 21°C and room temperature 17 to 19°C, flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If amaryllis seeds are to be collected, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin, they easily lose water and lose germination ability, so they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, cut off the flower stems promptly after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long term at 5°C.
The main diseases include viral disease, spot disease and nematode disease. Spot disease damages leaves and flowers.
11. Peony
Peony is one of China's traditional famous flowers, with a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. Peony flower forms are varied, flower colors are gorgeous, green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full. Used for greening and ornament, it can lead people into a breathtakingly beautiful dreamland.
Peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m. Flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are also borne in the leaf axils at the top. The flower stalks are relatively long. Flowers are divided into single-petaled and double-petaled types, and flower colors include white, yellow, pink, purple, rose and many other colors.
Peony flowers have strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open ground in most areas of northern China. However, heat resistance is relatively poor, and growth stops in hot summers. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and flower in light shade. It likes moisture, but fears waterlogging, and is suitable for growing in deep, fertile, well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
Peony is commonly propagated by division, and the best time for division is from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, dry them in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest naturally connected place and cut with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm long and shortened. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristics of peony are rapid growth and flowering after sprouting in spring; after flowering, upward growth stops and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn, all aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground the long spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate sufficient nutrients, deeply buried in the soil; at the root crown there are dormant young buds, which break through the soil when spring returns the following year.
1. Land requirements:
A sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers and loose fertility should be selected. Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied, preferably rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu), and then deep plowing and leveling can be done.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, ornamental use is generally 80 cm x 70 cm, planting about 1,200 plants per mu, while production use can be 60 cm x 50 cm, planting about 2,200 plants per mu. When planting, the holes are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter, and the depth of the seedling should be such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground level. Finally, fill the holes with soil, tamp them firm, and pile up a 10 cm mound to prevent cold and preserve soil moisture and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture, water appropriately for overwintering.
3. Field management:
(1) Intertillage and weeding: In the following spring, before peony sprouts, level the soil mounds from the previous autumn; during the growing period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long drought.
(2) Removing side buds: In addition to the bud borne at the top of the stem, peony also bears 3 to 6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud flower large and full; if the side buds are retained, flowering is abundant and the ornamental period is long. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: Peony has fleshy roots and a developed root system, with strong drought resistance, so generally no watering is needed. If spring drought or summer drought lasts a long time, water once or twice, preferably with pollution-free river water. In winter, depending on soil dryness and wetness, one overwintering watering can also be given. Peony grows vigorously and has a high fertilizer demand, so it can be fertilized twice a year. Before winter, apply some long-acting fertilizer, such as rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried night soil (1500 kg/mu). Before or after flowering, apply some quick-acting fertilizer, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium (10 to 15 kg/mu). Foliar topdressing can also be combined, such as monopotassium phosphate or trace-element fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot. The peak generally occurs in summer and autumn when temperature is high and humidity is high. In the early stage, spray 800 times dilution of 40% carbendazim on the leaves for control; in severe cases, spray 500 times dilution of 40% carbendazim once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times can achieve control.
(2) Insect pests: mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak occurrence period in July to August, use 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl liquid, mix with organic fertilizer or sandy soil into toxic bait, spread evenly, and then deep hoe. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes, highly transmissible and relatively serious to peony. Symptoms are root nodules of different sizes on fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching and early dropping of leaf margins, and in severe cases the plant becomes shorter until death. For control, use 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m, evenly applied to the affected plot during the rainy summer period, then deep hoe 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals and mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must absolutely not be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant. In the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. After the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the sunshine duration shortens, flower bud differentiation can begin, flower buds are formed, and gorgeous flowers bloom through frost.
Chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions. It is cultivated throughout China, and can grow in slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and the flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C, dormant buds can sprout, and 20 to 25°C is most suitable for growth. Chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant and fears waterlogging. It likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemum can be propagated by division, cuttings, grafting, sowing and many other methods. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and techniques such as selection of fine varieties and artificial pollination, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also only carried out in nurseries when large numbers of seedlings are needed. For home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply sufficient rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deep plow and harrow finely, and make flat beds. Mix seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, cover with a shade net after sowing and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, cloudy and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done with a fine spray to prevent surface soil crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be direct-sown; in southern China they can be sown in February, while in cold northern regions they can be sown in early April, with about 0.2 kg of seed per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, dig out old chrysanthemum greens stumps, expose the root crown, cut off side buds that already have roots together with old roots, and transplant them to the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings made from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the basal leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging, provide shade in high-temperature seasons, and when temperatures are lower, build a plastic film arched shed to keep warm and moist. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like chrysanthemums in vases, so here are a few tips:
1. Before placing chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the lower leaves of the flower stems that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, while the leaves turn yellow quickly; leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period long, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water uptake channels can always remain unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase likewise need certain nutrients. The simplest method is to put one vitamin tablet into the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleach powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dosage of bleach should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to water volume, number of flowers and bleach purity).
13. Wax begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and avoids exposure to strong sun and rain. Leaves are alternate, ovate to long ovate, and leaf colors include green, dark red, etc. Flower colors include bright red, pink, white, etc., and it flowers in all four seasons.
Sowing propagation can be done in all four seasons. First compact the pot soil and soak it thoroughly. Because the seeds are very small, they should be mixed with fine sand, scattered evenly, and lightly covered with fine sand or not covered. Cover with glass or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, and at this time dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, plant them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert them into sandy soil. Keep the pot soil moist, and they will root quickly. This can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation management: The pot soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growing period, moderate moisture is required, and apply composted dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light, but avoids direct sunlight exposure; too strong light easily makes leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes plants grow thin and weak and affects flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, and fertilization should stop at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch the growing tips multiple times during the growing period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After wax begonia has been grown for 1 to 2 years, it appears aged, and can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, then after pinching treatment, the original luxuriant posture can be restored. Repot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. Flowers are solitary in the leaf axils at the branch tips, with long stalks; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular and often droops. Flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, etc., flowering in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with different plant forms and flower postures.
Fuchsia is native to South America. It likes a mild, cool and humid environment, and its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers." Its fertilizer and water requirements differ by season; spring and autumn require relatively large amounts. In the hot summer season, fuchsia enters a semi-dormant state, and watering should be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Ventilation and cooling measures should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently, and the plant should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe overwintering through summer. After autumn cools, it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch the growing tips in time to shape it, and promote side branches. Generally, 2 to 3 weeks after pinching, it can flower, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The pot soil is best as fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
After flowering, fuchsia sets seed with difficulty, so cutting propagation is usually used. It can be done throughout the year, but spring is suitable. One-year-old tender branches are easiest to root. Select robust, plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert them into sandy soil to the depth of one node; maintain the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and after two weeks they can root. Plantlets should be potted in culture soil in time, and the growing tips pinched in time to promote side branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the surrounding old roots cut off to rejuvenate the plant. Spring cuttings have an advantage, namely that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings made before the dog days flower after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If plants lose leaves in summer, generally after the Beginning of Autumn they should be cut back immediately to promote new branches, topdress with liquid fertilizer, and they can flower in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has vigorous vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is essential. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the plant itself can be divided 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, grow the plant with ease and get twice the result with half the effort, and the clivia grown will be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature and humidity factors. Let us discuss views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water. But different plants have different requirements for water, and water quality also differs from place to place. Clivia's requirements for water are as follows:
Water pH: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. Water pH differs from place to place. If it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, improvement should be considered. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water and so on differ in water quality from one another. Clean water rich in minerals is best. Tap water has been treated with artificially added chemicals, so it should generally be stored for several days before being used to water flowers.
Soil water content: The suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the soil water content is too high for a long time, soil aeration will worsen, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will dehydrate the plant, causing the roots to shrivel and wither.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but means that the soil water content is relatively low, which is the time to water. People who often grow clivia usually tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the soil water content by the sound produced by tapping. If the tapping sound is dull, it indicates that the soil water content is relatively high, and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the soil water content is relatively low, and watering should be done immediately. The reason the dragonfly-skimming practice is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, watering should also note that water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between them should not be too large; watering time is preferably morning and evening. At noon in summer, the temperature is very high, so watering is not suitable; watering should avoid the flower center, especially during the period of stem extension and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: The roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile, water-permeable and well-aerated soil, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing clivia. The best humus soil is oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of larch, hazel, pear, apple and others are also acceptable, but attention should be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; too high a rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and aeration are poor.
To further improve the structure of humus soil and increase water permeability and aeration, some larch pine needles, carbon made from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand, and furnace cinder can also be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted and barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing clivia and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, soil pH differs among regions, so neutral or slightly acidic soil should be selected, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to bloom, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an indispensable and important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia. Clivia is a fertilizer-loving flower, and mature plants must have sufficient fertilizer.
Clivia fertilization should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development status, and season of the clivia. Too much or too little fertilization is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will lack nutrients, and clivia will grow slowly, with leaves obviously narrowing, becoming soft and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizers are divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds and others, after being fried, with a small amount of bone meal added, are very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring, September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed) and others, after full fermentation, are good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer, with quick fertilizer effect but short fertilizer duration, and can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied multiple times, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the leaves or heart of the clivia, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot. After each fertilization, use a spray can to spray clean water to rinse the leaves or heart.
What has been discussed above is all organic fertilizer. Inorganic fertilizer can also be used, and takes effect faster. Clivia growth emphasizes nutritional balance, requiring not only the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. Severe deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly applied organic fertilizer.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed. Indoor clivia should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (scattered light). Summer light is strong, so shading treatment is needed to prevent burning the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism, so regularly adjust the direction facing the light to make the plant shape neat. If conditions permit, the extending direction of the leaves should be consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean. Frequently wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, when above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to lower the temperature. Above 30°C with low humidity will reduce leaf gloss; high temperature with plenty of water will make leaves grow too long; high temperature may even cause high-temperature disease, leading the whole plant to rot.
Below 10°C growth and development will be slow; below 5°C growth will be inhibited; below 0°C the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment. Low environmental humidity will affect leaf gloss; dry air and wind and sun in the open field will cause the leaves to lose their delicate gloss, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, lush and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect; the reason lies precisely in this. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight; do not expose to strong sun. In summer, clivia should be shielded from strong light all day. Using the slanting sunlight in the early morning each day to sun it for a while is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperature; do not let it dry out. The suitable summer temperature for clivia is 18°C to 25°C. It is best placed in an air-conditioned room, or in a shaded and ventilated place on a balcony. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days. Water once every day after 6 p.m., and do not let the pot soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth; do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia, so stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer has been applied to the pot soil or the fertilizer effect is strong, pour out the upper soil of the flower pot, mix in 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mix evenly and put it back into the pot, which not only reduces fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution; do not water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean. Once a week, dip fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction; do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suited to cultivation in loose, aerated, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent disease; do not cause infection. When changing soil or wiping leaves, movements should be gentle to prevent roots and leaves from being wounded and exuding sap, which can cause infection and decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated around the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid environment with sufficient light. The suitable growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and flowers easily wither; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In hot summer regions of China, cyclamen is then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in the Kunming area of Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, summers are cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, plants are very easily damaged and rot to death. At the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperature. During the growing period, the relative humidity should preferably be 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growing period, the required light intensity is 28,000 to 36,000 Lx; if higher than 45,000 Lx or lower than 15,000 Lx, photosynthetic intensity decreases significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong summer sunlight exposure and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor greening in factory areas.
I. Key points for propagation and cultivation of potted cyclamen: cultivation techniques
Mostly propagated by sowing. Sow in September and flower the following winter. It can also be propagated by cutting the tuber, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not used. The key to cultivation is that during the summer dormant period, a cool but not overly wet environment should be maintained. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often discarded. Repot once a year.
II. Propagation and cultivation care of planted cyclamen
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally divide into small tubers, so they are generally all propagated by sowing. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate. If the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing the seeds must be detoxified. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes and rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and then sow. Determine the sowing date according to the flower supply time. Generally sow 13 months before the flower supply time, and even early-flowering varieties need 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day and Spring Festival, sowing is usually done from September to October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85% to 95%. To germinate earlier and emerge evenly, seed soaking to promote germination can be done before sowing (detoxified seeds sown immediately do not need germination promotion). Soak seeds in cold water for 24 hours, or soak in 30°C warm water for 2 to 3 hours, wash off the sticky material on the seed surface, wrap in a wet cloth to promote germination, and treat at 25°C for 1 to 2 days. When the seeds slightly begin to sprout, take them out and sow. For sowing soil, use equal parts vermiculite and fine furnace cinder; equal parts peat soil and vermiculite; or equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand. Sow in spots, with spacing 2 cm x 2 cm, and cover with 0.5 cm soil. Use the pot immersion method to keep the pot soil moist, at 18 to 20°C, and germination occurs in 30 to 40 days. When the sown seedlings grow 1 true leaf, divide them, with spacing 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil mixed in the ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, river sand 2. When planting, make the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, keep moist, place in weak light during the seedling recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light and strengthen ventilation. The temperature should preferably be 15 to 18°C, topdress appropriately, and be careful not to let fertilizer liquid contaminate the leaves, to avoid causing rot. When the seedlings have 3 to 5 leaves, pot them.
2. Tuber division method: For superior varieties of cyclamen that set seed poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber vertically from the top into several pieces; each piece must carry a bud eye. Coat the cut with plant ash or charcoal powder, let it dry slightly, and then pot and plant. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, and it is rarely used.
In recent years, international research on vegetative propagation of cyclamen has been carried out in many aspects. Successful methods include: 1. Tuber tissue culture: cut the tuber into pieces and culture them under sterile conditions to form regenerated plants; 2. Use leaf buds with part of the tuber tissue for cuttings; 3. In the original pot, cut off the upper part of the tuber, then make vertical cuts to divide it, so as to form regenerated plantlets. The third method is mainly introduced below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After cutting off the upper part, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface, and then form regenerated plants. By dividing 1 tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The method is: select robust, plump and full tubers, and divide 1 to 2 months after flowering; the suitable division period is May to June. First adjust the pot soil moisture, because if divided under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap; this bleeding not only affects growth vigor, especially hindering the formation of adventitious buds, but also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled and soil moisture reduced. When touching the leaf tips gives a soft feeling, that is the suitable division period. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, with a thickness of about 1/3 of the tuber. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter below 4 cm) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter above 4 cm) vertically, to a depth that does not damage the root system. If making checkerboard cuts, the cut spacing is 1 cm; a tuber 6 cm in diameter can be cut into 27 pieces.
After dividing, immediately cover the pot with plastic film and carry out a curing treatment at 30°C until the wounds form periderm, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key management point is to maintain the soil moisture from the time of division. The pot can be weighed together at the time of division, and the lost water replenished by weight every 2-3 days. Seventy to eighty days after division, each cut section forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C to let them gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants have basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Normally they flower 11-14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot; it is simple and easy, requiring no complex techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals are uniform in character; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to propagate clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the need for flowers at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjusting the sowing date. By making use of the seedlings' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures, placing them in a cool, ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, the flowering period can be advanced. Sowing can be done from December through early summer, and they will flower in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Controlling environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, applying additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, providing appropriate shading, and placing them in a cool, ventilated spot at 25°C can allow them to continue flowering until June-July.
3. Using certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote the dormancy of bulbs, thereby controlling the flowering period. For example, injecting or fumigating with aqueous solutions of ether, camphor, etc. into the buds can break dormancy. For instance, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, placing 0.5 cm of ether and treating for 24-48 hours rapidly breaks the dormancy of cyclamen tubers, restores growth, and advances flowering. As another example, placing a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as ethyl naphthaleneacetate or ethyl phenylcarbamate beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout can prevent the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae, occurring under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages petioles and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up, while in rainy weather they rot and smell foul. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are tea-brown, round and sunken, and later the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia; the spores disperse and infect via water. Control methods: remove affected leaves and petioles and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500-600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode (Heterodelaradicicola). Soil temperatures of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage; they invade the roots and form root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: sterilize the soil; burn affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill the nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, petioles to bend, growth to be inhibited, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500 times dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500 times dilution of dicofol.
17. Narcissus
In the cold depths of winter, narcissus can, in a dish of clear water, unfold verdant leaves and produce elegant, fragrant flowers. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a sense of spring.
According to Chinese flower introductions: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is maintained at around 15°C, with sufficient sunlight and frequent watering and regular water changes, it can bloom in 25-30 days. But several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise growth stops and it enters dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise water deterioration causes contamination and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If it is required to bloom during the Spring Festival, the bulb (narcissus head) can be potted about 20-300 days before the Spring Festival; after potting it begins to grow until flowering. Several cultivation methods are introduced here:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dried, withered scale pieces on the outside of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add humus soil to 3 cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the humus soil firm, then seat the narcissus bulb base in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, then water thoroughly, and place the pot in a shady place. After 5 days, once the bulb base has grown roots, place the pot in a sunny place for cultivation. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to "dry then wet": do not water if the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use washed clean fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, put the sand into the pot up to 3 cm below the pot rim, then seat the narcissus head with old scale pieces and old roots removed into the pot filled with fine sand, add about 1 cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a shady place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until flowering. When growing narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning and evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old scale pieces and old roots cleanly, then place into the narcissus bowl for cultivation, add water to about 1 cm below the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a shady place. After the bulb base grows roots, place it in a sunny place until flowering. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day; on the one hand this prevents water deterioration and contamination causing root rot, and on the other hand, changing the water daily keeps the water clean and the roots grown white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied and graceful forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific method is: first peel off the dried, withered scales on the outside of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth trend of the buds, use the curved side as the carving surface, then use a small pointed knife to gently cut a horizontal line from left to right on the bulb at 2 cm from the root base, then cut a vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales layer by layer within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines, and at the same time dig out the scales between the buds, until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom; the growth of the flower scape will then become deformed and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. After carved shaping, the narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wounds, changing the water every day, soaking for about 2-3 days. Once the mucus is cleaned away, take it out and cover the bulb base (root base) with absorbent cotton. Then place it with the carved surface facing up into the narcissus bowl, add water, and cultivate in a shady place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the bulb base has grown about 1 cm long, place the narcissus bowl in a sunny place for cultivation. Remember that during cultivation the temperature should not exceed 20°C; change the water frequently, once a day; spray water frequently, 1-2 times a day; and provide frequent sunlight. In this way the flowers cultivated will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.