What are the propagation methods for Oxalis corymbosa?
Oxalis corymbosa is not only ornamental; its leaves, petioles and pedicels all contain large amounts of organic acids, so it also has certain medicinal value. Oxalis corymbosa is not difficult to cultivate, and artificial propagation can be done by division or by sowing. If you also grow Oxalis corymbosa, why not follow along with the editor and propagate it yourself.
Oxalis corymbosa
1. Division propagation
Oxalis corymbosa has very strong rhizome reproductive capacity and divides very easily. It can be done year-round. One perennial old plant can be separated into more than ten corms. If the divided new plants are planted properly, they quickly recover their vigor and send out new leaves. Divided before autumn, they can bloom the same year.
2. Seed propagation
Once the seeds mature they split open easily and are very hard to collect, so the timing must be grasped well and they must be harvested promptly. Mature seeds are brown, rather small, with a thousand-grain weight of about 0.07 g. Use ordinary sowing soil and maintain a high temperature above 25°C; they germinate in about 7 days, with a high germination rate. The seedlings grow fairly quickly, tolerate transplanting, and have a high survival rate after transplanting. With proper seedling management, they can grow into mature plants with rhizomes the same year, and can bloom the following year.
Oxalis corymbosa Oxalis corymbosa illustrated guide: how to grow Oxalis corymbosa / how to propagate Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa profileOxalis corymbosa
Aliases: large sour grass, Nantianqi, Yehemei, large-leaf oxalis, Sanjialian
Classification: herbaceous flowering plant
Family and order: Plantae, Spermatophyta, Dicotyledoneae, Geraniales, Oxalidaceae, Oxalis
Peak flowering season: all four seasons
Oxalis corymbosa (pronounced the same as "cu", vinegar), aliases: large sour grass, Nantianqi, etc., belongs to the order Geraniales, family Oxalidaceae, a perennial erect herb. It has no above-ground stem; the underground part has a spherical bulb, the outer scales membranous, brown, with 3 ribbed longitudinal veins on the back, covered with long ciliate hairs, the inner scales triangular, hairless. Leaves basal; hairy; leaflets 3, obcordate, 1-4 cm long, apex concave, the two side angles rounded, base broadly cuneate, upper surface green, hairy or nearly hairless; lower surface light green, usually on both surfaces or sometimes only on the margin with small glands that turn brown-black after drying, especially on the lower surface, and sparsely hairy; stipules oblong, apex narrowly pointed, with the petiole...
How to grow Oxalis corymbosa and points to note An introduction to Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa (pronounced the same as "cu", vinegar), aliases: large sour grass, Nantianqi, etc., belongs to the order Geraniales, family Oxalidaceae, a perennial erect herb. It has no above-ground stem; the underground part has a spherical bulb, the outer scales membranous, brown, with 3 ribbed longitudinal veins on the back, covered with long ciliate hairs, the inner scales triangular, hairless. Leaves basal; hairy; leaflets 3, obcordate, 1-4 cm long, apex concave, the two side angles rounded, base broadly cuneate, upper surface green, hairy or nearly hairless; lower surface light green, usually on both surfaces or sometimes only on the margin with small glands that turn brown-black after drying, especially on the lower surface, and sparsely hairy; stipules oblong, apex narrowly pointed, fused with the petiole base.
Morphological characteristics of Oxalis corymbosa: stem
Oxalis corymbosa (pronounced the same as "cu", vinegar) is a perennial erect herb. It has no above-ground stem; the underground part has a spherical bulb, the outer scales membranous, brown, with 3 ribbed longitudinal veins on the back, covered with long ciliate hairs, the inner scales triangular, hairless.
Leaves
The leaves of Oxalis corymbosa are basal; petiole 5-30 cm long or longer, hairy; leaflets 3, obcordate, 1-4 cm long, 1.5-6 cm wide, apex concave, the two side angles rounded, base broadly cuneate, upper surface green, hairy or nearly hairless; lower surface light green, usually on both surfaces or sometimes only on the margin with small glands that turn brown-black after drying, especially on the lower surface, and sparsely hairy; stipules oblong, apex narrowly pointed, fused with the petiole base.
Flowers
The inflorescence of Oxalis corymbosa is basal on the peduncle, a dichasial cyme, usually arranged in umbel-like form; peduncle 10-40 cm long or longer, hairy; pedicels, bracts and sepals all hairy; pedicels 5-25 mm long, each pedicel with 2 lanceolate dry-membranous bracts; sepals 5, lanceolate, about 4-7 mm long, apex with 2 dark red oblong small glands, the upper ventral surface sparsely pubescent; petals 5, obcordate, 1.5-2 cm long, 2-4 times the length of the sepals, pale purple to purplish red, darker at the base; stamens 10, of which 5 longer ones exceed the style and the other 5 reach the middle of the ovary, filaments covered with long soft hairs; ovary 5-locular, styles 5, covered with rusty-colored long soft hairs, stigma shallowly 2-lobed.
The flowering and fruiting period of Oxalis corymbosa is March to December.
Ecological habits of Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa prefers sunny, warm, humid environments; in hot summer regions it should be given half shade; it has fairly strong drought resistance but is not cold-tolerant, so in North China it must be grown in a greenhouse in winter, while south of the Yangtze River it can overwinter outdoors. It likes shady, moist environments and has strong adaptability to soil; it can grow in ordinary garden soil, but grows most vigorously in sandy loam rich in humus, and has a short dormancy in summer. When the sunlight is extremely good, it tends to open.
Cultivation techniques for Oxalis corymbosa: lifting seedlings
Use a shovel to dig up the whole aged plant, gently pat off the old soil around the roots, and pile them together. When digging, stay a little farther from the plant to avoid accidentally injuring the bulb, and note that the shovel should be dug straight down, not at an angle, so as not to damage the bulb.
Division
Remove dead and withered leaves from the dug-up Oxalis corymbosa, and pick off about 1/2 of the old leaves to reduce transpiration water loss after planting. Use a sharp knife to cut off the lower old bulb, with the cut preferably below the first or second new bulb above, so that after planting the seedling retaining 1-2 new bulbs, the lower old bulb can be removed for renewal and rejuvenation; at the same time it ensures the new plant stores enough nutrients to sprout and bloom quickly. Finally, dip the cut wound of the new bulb in fresh plant ash to prevent the wound from rotting.
Fertilizing
In the flower bed where the aged plants were dug out, apply additional organic fertilizer, deep-dig once and rake out dead and withered leaves and weeds. Generally apply 0.5-0.8 kg of decomposed cake fertilizer per sq m, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to ensure the flowering needs of Oxalis corymbosa.
Planting
Oxalis corymbosa grows quickly, and each plant can propagate 3-9 small seedlings in the same year. When planting, generally use triangular hole planting, with a spacing of 25 x 35 cm. Use a small trowel to dig holes 8-10 cm deep; according to bulb size, place 4-6 plants per hole, cover with 3-4 cm of soil, and be careful to leave the leaves exposed above the soil surface. Of course, the furrow planting method can also be used, with a spacing generally of 15-30 cm; water 2-3 days after planting to prevent the bulbs from rotting.
Key maintenance points
Oxalis corymbosa is easy to establish, has strong growth vigor and a long flowering period, and is deeply loved by many people. However, because daily management is too extensive, in many areas the phenomenon of planting without caring has appeared. This causes Oxalis corymbosa grown for many years to crowd together, with roots moving upward, weakened ability to absorb fertilizer and water, declining vigor year by year, few flowers, and a shortened flowering period; in severe cases whole patches wither, affecting its ornamental value. Based on years of cultivation experience, the author now attempts to analyze the causes of its aging and introduce methods for rejuvenation.
Causes of aging
The underground scaly stem of Oxalis corymbosa is spindle-shaped, covered on the outside with a brown hard cortex, with an apical bud at the top. After the apical bud is damaged, the surrounding axillary buds sprout in large numbers, and adventitious roots can form at the base. When temperatures rise in spring, Oxalis corymbosa begins to tiller, and the base of the plant growing on the bulb gradually swells to form a new bulb. This tillering occurs about twice a year, the first time after large-scale greening in spring, and the second time at the end of summer dormancy. As this tillering increases and new bulbs grow, the bulbs continuously move upward, bringing the root system gradually closer to the ground surface; this phenomenon is called "root jumping". According to the author's observation, the 2nd-3rd year after planting Oxalis corymbosa is the peak tillering period, and the flower quantity is also greater. After the 5th-6th year, tillering ability gradually weakens, most bulbs have already risen more than 5 cm above the ground, vigor declines noticeably, and they are susceptible to sunscald and freezing damage, and prone to pests and diseases. A cross-section of a new bulb shows the interior is milky white; while a cross-section of the aged bulb at the bottom shows the interior is moderately red and has become lignified.
Renewal and rejuvenation
Oxalis corymbosa is easy to plant and easy to establish. Renewal and rejuvenation can be carried out year-round in combination with division propagation; the best division time in North China is from early March to the end of April. At this time division and rejuvenation planting has a high survival rate and does not affect the growth and ornamental effect of Oxalis corymbosa. In addition, after the summer dormancy of Oxalis corymbosa is also a good time for division and rejuvenation.
Strengthen management
Strengthening the daily maintenance and management of Oxalis corymbosa can also effectively delay the occurrence of its aging phenomenon. The flowering period of Oxalis corymbosa lasts more than 5 months, and during growth it needs large amounts of fertilizer and water, so fertilizer and water should be applied promptly during the growing season. Before Oxalis corymbosa greens up in spring, apply 15-20 kg of compound fertilizer per mu, either by hole application or by broadcasting with watering depending on soil moisture. After that, except during dormancy, fertilize once every 20 days, and pay attention to pest and disease control. In summer, from July to August, temperatures rise and Oxalis corymbosa is forced into dormancy, basically stopping growth. To prevent sunscald damage to the new stems exposed above the soil, soil should be mounded up. The thickness of the mounded soil should be determined according to the height the new stems of Oxalis corymbosa rise each year, generally 2-3 cm is suitable. Oxalis corymbosa is native to Brazil and likes shady, moist environments, requiring well-drained sandy loam with much humus. It is not cold-tolerant, and in colder regions it can only be grown in a greenhouse.
Propagation methods of Oxalis corymbosa
In Tengzhou City, no seed-setting has been observed in Oxalis corymbosa; bulb propagation and division propagation are the main propagation methods.
Division propagation
Propagate in spring and autumn, when the underground stem is plump and new buds have already formed; simply break them apart by hand and plant, and they establish very easily.
Stem-cutting propagation
Best done in spring, with a relatively high survival rate; cut the bulb into pieces, each piece with 2-3 buds, and after planting for more than a month new leaves emerge, and they can bloom the same year.
Rapid propagation
The propagation coefficient of a single bulb is high; on average each single bulb can yield about 15-17 bulbs. The survival rates of mother bulbs and leaf bulbs planted singly in the open field differ little, but the leaf bulb has the highest propagation coefficient. According to experiments, there is no great difference in the survival rate of Oxalis corymbosa cultivated in different periods; only the bulb size and type differ noticeably. Under normal circumstances, Oxalis corymbosa is propagated mainly in spring and autumn. To increase the propagation coefficient, on the basis of bulb division propagation, the bulbs can also be cut into 2-6 pieces according to size for propagation. Bulbs cultivated for 2a can each propagate 20-30 plants, with a high survival rate and fast growth, and can bloom in about 1 month.
Seed propagation
Oxalis corymbosa can also grow in ordinary soil, but grows fastest in fertile, loose, well-drained sandy soil. When planting, it must not be too deep. During the growing period, apply organic fertilizer once a month and water promptly. During the growing period, pay attention to watering, keep it moist, and fertilize 2-3 times, which can keep flowers abundant and leaves lush. In hot seasons growth is slow and it is basically in a dormant state, so stop applying fertilizer and water, place it in a shady spot, and protect it through the summer. In winter and spring, during the vigorous growth period, strengthen fertilizer and water management.
Pest and disease control of Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa is easily harmed by red spider mites; if not controlled in time, this can cause leaves to yellow and dry up, with few flowers, affecting ornamental value. Therefore, during the growth of this plant, spray 40% omethoate at 1000-1500 times dilution, 0.2-0.3 degree lime sulfur mixture, as well as acaricides, etc.
Variety classification of Oxalis corymbosa
Species related to "Oxalis corymbosa DC." include:
Oxalis acetosella L.
Oxalis acetosella L. subsp. acetosella
Oxalis acetosella L. subsp. griffithii (Edgew. & Hook.f.) Hara
Oxalis acetosella L. subsp. japonica (Franch. & Sav.) H. Hara
Oxalis acetosella L. subsp. leucolepis (Diels) C. C. Huang & L. R. Xu
Oxalis bowiei Herb. ex Lindl.
Oxalis corniculata L.
Oxalis corniculata L. var. corniculata
Oxalis corniculata L. var. stricta (L.) C. C. Huang & L. R. Xu
Oxalis pes-caprae L.
Distribution range of Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa is distributed in Hebei, Shaanxi, East China, Central China, South China, Sichuan and Yunnan, among other places. It is native to the tropical regions of South America, was introduced as an ornamental plant in areas north of the Yangtze River in China, and has become wild in various places in the south, as well as in Japan. It grows in low-altitude mountainous areas, roadsides, wasteland or paddy fields.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of Oxalis corymbosa
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huahua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problem should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease please follow doctor's orders.
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Medicinal value
Nature, flavor and meridian entry: sour, cold.
Functions and indications: clear heat and detoxify, dissipate blood stasis and reduce swelling, regulate menstruation. Used for pyelonephritis, dysentery, watery diarrhea, pharyngitis, toothache, strangury with turbid urine, irregular menstruation, leukorrhea; externally for venomous snake bites, bruises and injuries, carbuncles and sores, burns and scalds.
Medicine
[Bai medicine] The whole plant treats pyelonephritis, dysentery, pharyngitis, toothache, irregular menstruation, leukorrhea; externally for venomous snake bites,
Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa (4 photos)
bruises and injuries, burns and scalds, "Dali Zi Zhi".
[Dong medicine] Madang Ketu: the whole plant treats impetigo, "Gui Yao Bian".
[Yao medicine] Suanmi Cao: used for bruises and swelling pain, "Gui Yao Bian".
[Miao medicine] Tiankui Cao, Liangui Zai: the whole plant is used to clear heat and detoxify, dissipate blood stasis and reduce swelling, "Xiang Lan Kao".
[Lisu medicine] Alaca Bo: the whole plant treats cold and fever, enteritis, hepatitis, urinary tract infection, stones, neurasthenia; externally for bruises and injuries, carbuncle swelling and boils; apply an appropriate amount externally, mash and apply to the affected area, "Nujiang Yao".
Whole plant (Tongchui Cao): sour, cold. Dissipates blood stasis and reduces swelling, clears heat and detoxifies. Used for bruises and injuries, sore throat, edema, strangury with turbid urine, leukorrhea, diarrhea, dysentery, carbuncles and sores, scalds.
Landscape uses of Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa is widely planted in gardens; it can be arranged in flower beds and flower borders, is also suitable for large-scale planting as ground cover and for clump planting in gaps, and is also a good material for potted plants.
Uses and functions of Oxalis corymbosa
Oxalis corymbosa has many advantages such as short, neat plants, abundant flowers and leaves, a long flowering period, brilliant flower color, rapid ground coverage, and the ability to suppress weed growth. It is very suitable for large-scale planting in flower beds, flower paths, open woodland and forest edges; using Oxalis corymbosa to form characters or pattern designs gives very good results. Oxalis corymbosa can also be potted to decorate plazas and indoor balconies, and is also a good material for edging courtyard greening.
Oxalis corymbosa pictures
How to grow Oxalis corymbosa The difference between Oxalis corymbosa and Oxalis corniculata
Oxalis corymbosa has a spherical rhizome underground, white and transparent, and its flowers and leaves are both sensitive to sunlight. So how do you grow Oxalis corymbosa? What is the difference between Oxalis corymbosa and Oxalis corniculata? Next, let's look at how to grow Oxalis corymbosa and the difference between Oxalis corymbosa and Oxalis corniculata.
I. How to grow Oxalis corymbosa
1. Sowing: Oxalis corymbosa can also grow in ordinary soil, but grows fastest in fertile, loose, well-drained sandy soil. When planting, it must not be too deep. During the growing period, apply organic fertilizer once a month and water promptly. During the growing period, pay attention to watering, keep it moist, and fertilize 2-3 times, which can keep flowers abundant and leaves lush. In hot seasons growth is slow and it is basically in a dormant state, so stop applying fertilizer and water, place it in a shady spot, and protect it through the summer. In winter and spring, during the vigorous growth period, strengthen fertilizer and water management.
2. Lifting seedlings: Use a shovel to dig up the whole aged plant, gently pat off the old soil around the roots, and pile them together. When digging, stay a little farther from the plant to avoid accidentally injuring the bulb, and note that the shovel should be dug straight down, not at an angle, so as not to damage the bulb.
3. Division: Remove dead and withered leaves from the dug-up Oxalis corymbosa, and pick off about 1/2 of the old leaves to reduce transpiration water loss after planting. Use a sharp knife to cut off the lower old bulb, with the cut preferably below the first or second new bulb above, so that after planting the seedling retaining 1 to 2 new bulbs, the lower old bulb can be removed for renewal and rejuvenation; at the same time it ensures the new plant stores enough nutrients to sprout and bloom quickly. Finally, dip the cut wound of the new bulb in fresh plant ash to prevent the wound from rotting.
4. Fertilizing: In the flower bed where the aged plants were dug out, apply additional organic fertilizer, deep-dig once and rake out dead and withered leaves and weeds. Generally apply 0.5 to 0.8 kg of decomposed cake fertilizer per sq m, and appropriately increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to ensure the flowering needs of Oxalis corymbosa.
5. Planting: Oxalis corymbosa grows quickly, and each plant can propagate 3 to 9 small seedlings in the same year. When planting, generally use triangular hole planting, with a spacing of 25 x 35 cm. Use a small trowel to dig holes 8 to 10 cm deep; according to bulb size, place 4 to 6 plants per hole, cover with 3 to 4 cm of soil, and be careful to leave the leaves exposed above the soil surface. Of course, the furrow planting method can also be used, with a spacing generally of 15 to 30 cm; water 2 to 3 days after planting to prevent the bulbs from rotting.
6. Pest and disease control: Oxalis corymbosa is easily harmed by red spider mites; if not controlled in time, this can cause leaves to yellow and dry up, with few flowers, affecting ornamental value. Therefore, during the growth of this plant, spray 40% omethoate at 1000 to 1500 times dilution, 0.2 to 0.3 degree lime sulfur mixture, as well as acaricides, etc.
II. The difference between Oxalis corymbosa and Oxalis corniculata
Oxalis is the general name for plants in the family Oxalidaceae. However, we now generally use it to refer to Oxalis corniculata (yellow wood sorrel). The differences between Oxalis corniculata and Oxalis corymbosa, apart from the obviously different flower colors as the names suggest, are most obvious in the following
1. The former can form seeds, while the latter reproduces by tubers and does not form seeds.
2. The former has multi-level branching stems and can mostly grow prostrate, while the latter does not branch, sending out several petioles from one tuber, each petiole bearing one leaf. In addition, there are also some differences in leaf color, form and texture. However, these are less obvious than the two points above.
The above ishow to grow Oxalis corymbosaandthe difference between Oxalis corymbosa and Oxalis corniculataintroduced, and we hope it is helpful to everyone.