How to propagate bougainvillea? Introduction to common propagation methods

Bougainvillea has a particularly long flowering period, but due to China's rather special geographical environment, it varies from place to place. If the temperature is suitable, bougainvillea can bloom all year round. Horticultural varieties of bougainvillea are also increasing with the development of bougainvillea. Artificial propagation of bougainvillea can be done by cuttings, layering, water cuttings and grafting.

Bougainvillea

I. Cutting propagation

From May to June, select vigorous 1-year-old branches and cut them into 10-15 cm long cuttings, keeping 4-6 buds on each section. Use a new flower pot, with vermiculite or plain sandy soil as the cutting medium. Insert the branches 4-6 cm deep into the soil, spray thoroughly with water, cover with a glass sheet or plastic film to retain moisture, and place in a semi-shaded spot or a sunny spot indoors, keeping the temperature in the pot at around 24-30°C. If the temperature in the pot is too high, it can be moved to a cool place. Generally, roots can form after 15-30 days. Usually pay attention to ventilation and spraying water, and after 40 days they can be potted up. Newly potted seedlings should be placed in a cool place for 1 week, then moved to a semi-shaded spot. After half a month, increase the light. After 1 month, they can be managed as mature plants, and they can bloom the following year.

II. Layering propagation

From May to June, select 1-2 year-old branches from the lower part of the plant and layer them into a pot. The branches pressed into the soil must be ring-barked, and the width should be more than 2 times the diameter of the branch. After layering, cover with soil to fix them in place, and spray water frequently to keep them moist. Roots form in about 1 month, and after more than 2 months they can be cut off and potted up. Seedlings from layering propagation mature quickly, making it suitable for home flower growing.

III. Water cutting propagation

For bougainvillea varieties with orange-yellow, bright red, pink and other flower colors, the water cutting method is more convenient. In late spring and early summer, cut 1-year-old branches from vigorous plants into 15-20 cm long sections with 3-4 nodes as cuttings. Use a sharp knife to level the lower end, tie several of them into a small bundle with plastic string (do not tie too tightly), wash and sterilize a wide-mouth bottle, fill it with clean water to about 2/3 of the bottle's volume, insert the cuttings to a depth of 1/3 in the water, fix them in place, wrap the outside of the bottle with black paper to block light, avoid wind, rain and direct sunlight, and change the water every morning and evening to prevent the wounds from rotting. After about 15-20 days, the cuttings will heal and root. When the roots grow to 1 cm, they should be potted up. In the early stage after potting, water frequently to keep the potting soil moist, and keep them in a shaded place. After they sprout and grow, move on to normal care.

IV. Grafting propagation

Carry out in spring when the temperature is above 15°C, using 3-4 year-old common bougainvillea as the rootstock, and selecting excellent varieties such as double-petaled ones as the scion, 5-10 cm long, using the cleft grafting method. After grafting, they can heal in 40-50 days and send out new shoots.

Introduction to common propagation methods for spider plant

Spider plant has also been cultivated artificially for a very long time, so through people's continuous improvement, there are more and more varieties of spider plant. Spider plant is not difficult to cultivate, so many flower enthusiasts want to propagate spider plant themselves. Generally, the most commonly used method of propagating spider plant is cutting propagation, as this method is relatively simple to operate and also has a relatively high survival rate. The editor will introduce several common propagation methods for spider plant, and friends in need can learn them together.

Spider plant

I. Sowing

This method is used relatively rarely. Generally, March is more suitable. Sprinkle spider plant seeds, cover with a 5 mm layer of soil, water thoroughly, and there must be no standing water, so as not to soak the seeds in water. The temperature is best controlled at 15°C, and they will germinate in half a month.

II. Division

Division propagation is rather troublesome. It requires taking the spider plant out, separating the spider plant from the soil, and then cutting out new plants. It should be noted that the new plants must have roots, stems and leaves to ensure the plant's growth.

III. Cuttings

The simplest and most commonly used method, with a relatively high survival rate. It requires the spider plant to be growing relatively vigorously, with stolons that have new shoots. Cut off the stolons and insert them directly into the soil, and they will take root and survive in a week.

IV. Post-propagation care

1. Repotting and soil changing. To ensure vigorous growth of stems and leaves, you can repot and change the soil once a year, and remove dead and rotten roots to ensure sufficient base fertilizer in the soil.

2. Watering. Spider plant likes a shady and moist environment. Soil-cultivated spider plant must have moist soil, but when the temperature is too low it must not be too wet, otherwise the plant will be frostbitten. Frequently sprinkle water on the leaves to avoid too much dust affecting growth and appearance.

3. Fertilizing. Mainly nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizer can generally be used for home ornamental plants. Fertilize once every half a month, and liquid fertilizer is sufficient.

4. Light. Spider plant likes shade and moisture, and strong light should be avoided. It can occasionally be taken outside to air and dry.

5. Temperature. Spider plant generally grows well at 15°C to 25°C, and below 5°C the plant will be frostbitten.

Introduction to common propagation methods for Rieger begonia

Rieger begonia has a long flowering period and a unique fragrance, and is a relatively rare greenhouse potted ornamental flower. After variety improvement, Rieger begonia is extremely popular in European and American countries. The more commonly used propagation method for Rieger begonia is cutting, and it can also be propagated by sowing and tissue culture. The editor will introduce these three propagation methods for Rieger begonia in detail.

Rieger begonia

I. Cuttings

Rieger begonia can be propagated not only by stem cuttings but also by leaf cuttings. For stem cuttings, the length of the branches should be moderate, and the lower part of the branch should be cut into a horseshoe shape with a blade; for leaf cuttings, choose vigorous leaves that are six-tenths mature, and cut the lower end of the petiole diagonally with a blade. The cutting medium is vermiculite powder or plain sand, and contaminated medium must be sterilized before use. After inserting the cuttings, water thoroughly, but no water should accumulate on the leaf surface. Then cover them with plastic film, place in diffused light, ventilate appropriately, and avoid high temperatures. After about 3 weeks the cuttings can root.

When new leaves are seen growing, it indicates that roots have formed. Plants obtained by stem cuttings have no underground tubers. After 3 weeks, leaf cuttings can also grow fibrous roots from the lower part of the petiole, but it takes another month and a half before adventitious buds grow from the lower part of the petiole and gradually emerge from the soil. Photo 2 shows a plant cultivated from leaf cuttings.

II. Sowing

1. Sowing: Because the seeds are very small, the small-seed sowing method must be used. At present, Rieger begonia seeds are basically all imported, divided into coated and uncoated types. It is best to mail-order seeds in original packaging and without damage from a large flower and plant company, as this can ensure germination and seedling formation. Loose seeds are very difficult to germinate.

2. Sowing container: Coated seeds can be sorted, so plug trays can be used, while uncoated seeds can only use seedling trays. The sowing medium is 1 part peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder, crushed and sterilized, then mixed and stirred, and kept in a semi-moist state for use. Because peat soil is water-repellent in a dry state and water cannot penetrate, it cannot be used in a dry state. When sowing, first put the medium into the seedling tray, then water thoroughly with a watering can. Coated seeds can be sorted with tweezers, one per cell. Uncoated seeds can be mixed with an appropriate amount of fine vermiculite powder and broadcast in the seedling tray.

After sowing, there is no need to cover with soil; just spray with a fine watering can, then wrap the seedling tray with transparent plastic film. At an ambient temperature of about 20°C, seedlings begin to emerge in about 12 days. When the seedlings grow true leaves, ventilate appropriately to promote rooting. The seedlings grow very slowly in the first 3 months. For seedlings sown in early summer, there is no need to remove the plastic film throughout the summer; the seedlings tolerate high humidity and high temperatures.

After the Start of Autumn, when the weather becomes cooler, the plastic film can gradually be removed to harden the seedlings, and by early winter they can be potted up. Use a relatively small flower pot with many holes in the bottom. The growing soil can be mixed with 2 parts peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder (or 1 part plain sand). Before potting, control watering so that the growing soil in the seedling tray is in a semi-dry state, so that when lifting the seedlings the root ball will not break apart and damage the roots. Newly potted seedlings must be protected from excessive temperature changes in the weather, and at the same time covered with plastic film, but it must not be too tightly sealed; ventilate appropriately to prevent seedling rot.

Under household conditions, they cannot grow into large plants in the first year, but flowers can be seen. Only in the second year can they be grown into large plants. In the second year, larger flower pots can be used.

III. Tissue culture

This is an effective method to quickly obtain a large number of flower seedlings, and it can also succeed under household conditions. In the vigorous growth season, use well-developed leaves as explants. In a certain culture medium, through the culture of virus-free explants, subculture and rooting culture, a large number of virus-free seedlings can be obtained. This method requires relatively large investment and is only used in large-scale production.