How to sow and propagate Ranunculus? These key points must be mastered

Ranunculus is generally propagated by sowing, and can also be preserved through asexual propagation by tubers. Nowadays, Ranunculus is often used as a potted plant or cut flower. As people's fondness for Ranunculus grows, its cultivation area is also becoming larger and larger. So what issues should be noted during the sowing and propagation of Ranunculus?

Ranunculus

1. Seed saving and collection

To collect superior seeds, the mother plants for seed collection must be determined according to the requirements of the selection goal, marked clearly, and given intensified management. When the flowers bloom, carry out artificial supplementary pollination between flowers or between plants. When the stamens' pollen disperses, dip a brush in pollen and apply it to the stigmas of other flowers. When the petals of the pollinated flowers fall off and form a green aggregate fruit made of seeds arranged tightly together, remove the remaining flowers and buds so that nutrients are concentrated in supplying the seeds' growth and development. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management and pest and disease control so that Ranunculus grows robustly, produces more nutrients to send to the fruit spikes, and grows plump, full seeds. In June, when the aboveground branches and leaves of Ranunculus wither and yellow and the aggregate fruit turns from green to yellow and the seeds mature, pick the aggregate fruit, dry it in the sun, put it in a paper bag, and store it in a ventilated, dry place until sowing in autumn.

2. Low-temperature germination promotion

The normal sowing period for Ranunculus is autumn, and it is best to sow in October when the temperature drops below 20°C. However, temperatures vary greatly between different years, and germination time varies. If the suitable germination temperature can be controlled at 10°C to 15°C, germination takes about 20 days. If sown early, it will not germinate when the temperature is above 20°C, and only after the temperature drops to the germination temperature will it germinate, so the time required for germination after sowing is long; if sown late, the vegetative growth before overwintering is insufficient, and the flowers in the following spring will be small; if sown too late, it will not germinate when the temperature is below 5°C, and only in February of the following year, after the temperature rises, will it germinate. In production, in order to extend the vegetative growth period and cultivate high-quality Ranunculus, sowing can be advanced to mid to late August. At this time the temperature is high, which is not conducive to seed germination, so low-temperature germination promotion treatment is needed. That is, wrap the seeds in gauze, soak them in cold water for 24 hours, then place them in a constant-temperature incubator or refrigerator crisper at 8°C to 10°C, take them out every morning and evening, rinse with cold water, shake off excess water, and keep the seeds moist. After about 10 days, once the seeds begin to germinate and show white, sow immediately. Where conditions permit, high-mountain seedling raising can be used.

Propagation methods of Clematis

Planting methods for several common flowers

Planting methods for several common flowers
1. Iris japonica
Iris japonica is a perennial herb of the genus Iris in the family Iridaceae. It is distributed in almost all provinces and regions of the country, and also in Japan.
The rhizome is relatively slender and weak, shallow in the ground, creeping, yellow-brown. Leaves sword-shaped, dark green, glossy. The flower stalk is higher than the leaves, and the flowers are numerous, arranged in a terminal, long and sparse raceme. The style has 3 branches, dark purple, enlarged into petal-like form, rolled back and covering the anthers. The flowering period is April to May. The common flower color of this species is light purple or light blue. It is suitable for natural-style planting, and is also suitable for flower borders, flower beds and as cut flower material.
Ecological habits: It prefers shady and moist places, and has strong adaptability and cold tolerance. When cultivated outdoors through winter in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, the aboveground stems and leaves do not completely wither. It requires acidic soil and grows well in a moist, fertile and sunny environment.
Propagation: Mainly by division, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Division after flowering or in autumn is best, which is conducive to full plant growth and flower bud differentiation. Divide the dug-out rhizomes, and replant each segment with 1 to 2 buds. For seed propagation, germination occurs 4 to 6 weeks after sowing, and flowering can only occur 2 to 3 years after sowing.
Cultivation and pests and diseases: Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. After planting, press the rhizome firmly. Shallow planting is suitable, and deep planting is not suitable. In early spring, remove residual leaves to help new buds sprout. During the vigorous growth period, water sufficiently and fertilize 1 to 2 times a month, which can make the flowers abundant and the leaves lush. During the flowering period, keep the soil moist, but do not allow waterlogging; after flowering, apply 1 topdressing, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which is beneficial to rhizome development; after the flowers fade and the rhizome enters dormancy, keep the soil dry. Common leaf blight and bacterial soft rot are mostly caused by the larvae of the owlet moth, and can be controlled by spraying 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate; during the growth period there are also slugs and snails doing damage, so spray with 3% lime water in the evening.
Planting some flowers and trees around the front and back of a farmhouse improves the environment and beautifies life. With clever arrangement, the courtyard will become breathtakingly beautiful.
Planting one or two osmanthus or wintersweet trees alone or in pairs in the courtyard is a traditional Chinese garden arrangement; planting shade-tolerant flowers such as iris (commonly known as Iris japonica) and begonia in damp shady spots by the wall will grow well even without careful management; for potted flowers on the balcony, small aglaia and Chinese rose are more suitable; on the sunny side, sun-loving flowers such as chrysanthemums and scarlet sage can be planted, and sufficient sunlight will make them grow better; cacti and Sansevieria on the roof still grow quite well even without care for a long time; in places needing shade, you might as well plant a few grapes, morning glories, or Boston ivy by the window or hedge; even indoors, you can place a few pots of shade-tolerant asparagus fern and orchids on a desk or tea table, and this will make the farmhouse courtyard colorful and full of vitality!
2. Cineraria
Cineraria is a perennial herbaceous plant of the family Asteraceae, with the whole plant densely covered in soft hairs. The leaves are in whorls of three, triangular, and resemble cucumber leaves, hence the name Cineraria. Its flower colors are brilliant and rich, including a blue flower rarely seen indoors; and the flowering period is long, with an flowering time of about 6 months. It is an ideal potted flower for holidays such as New Year's Day, the Spring Festival, and May 1 Labor Day, and is a representative flower of winter and spring. However, it is not easy to cultivate Cineraria potted flowers with good plant shape, beautiful leaf color, and long flowering, and the following key technical measures in the cultivation of Cineraria must be mastered.
Sowing time: generally choose mid-August. Cineraria likes a cool climate and cannot tolerate hot high temperatures. The moderate growth temperature is 15°C to 20°C. The sowing box should be placed under a shade shed, or under tree shade; if sowing in beds, then a shade shed must be built above the bed soil to reduce the radiant heat of the sun.
Moisture control for seedlings: mainly reduce the temperature of the seedbed by spraying water mist, and supply water to the seedlings. The principle of spraying is that moistening is enough; the seedbed soil must not be too dry, nor too wet. If too dry, the seedlings will wilt and be difficult to recover; if too wet, plus the seedlings being in a high-temperature period, they are very prone to damping-off, resulting in a low seedling survival rate.
Preparation of culture soil: Cineraria likes sandy soil rich in humus and well drained, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 being relatively suitable. When preparing the culture soil for sowing, note that unpolluted leaf mold or plant ash, pure loess and fine sand should be mixed at 3:1:1, then sieved, and no fertilizer should be added. The culture soil prepared in this way is beneficial to seed germination and growth. Culture soil that is too sticky cannot withstand drying; once it cracks slightly, it will break the fibrous roots of the seedlings, causing seedling death and reducing the survival rate. The culture soil after pricking out can be the same as the culture soil used for sowing, to harden the seedlings. When potting, evenly place soybean cake, bone meal or superphosphate into the culture soil as base fertilizer, or use barnyard manure, burnt soil ash, garden soil, rapeseed cake and fine sand mixed at a ratio of 3:2:2:1:1 to prepare the culture soil, so as to ensure a sufficient supply of nutrients for the plants. Barnyard manure must be composted, decomposed and then dried in the sun; rapeseed cake must be crushed, and after full stirring and mixing, sieved before it can be used as culture soil for final planting.
Pay attention to temperature control: Cineraria likes a cool climate, avoids cold in winter, and avoids high temperatures in summer. Therefore, in winter it should be cultivated in a greenhouse, generally maintaining above 10°C, and often keeping the room temperature at about 15°C, so that it can grow well; in summer, place the sowing box under a shade shed, or make a sowing bed under a shade shed, and water before 10:00 a.m. or after 5:00 p.m. is more suitable. Never water at noon, so that the seedlings can smoothly pass through the high-temperature period.
Pay attention to humidity control in winter: Cineraria has relatively high humidity requirements in order to grow well. How to make the humidity moderate in winter is the key to successfully cultivating Cineraria. If too dry, the leaves of Cineraria are easily kept in a wilted state, which is not conducive to leaf growth, easily turns the leaves yellow, and also easily produces red spiders and aphids. If watered too much and the indoor humidity is too high, it easily causes the roots, main stems and leaves to rot, and also easily produces aphids; if in addition the room temperature is too high and ventilation is poor, diseases are easily produced.
3. Corn poppy
Corn poppy, also known as Lichunhua and Manyuanchun, is an annual or biennial herbaceous flower of the genus Papaver in the family Papaveraceae. The plant height is 30 to 90 cm, the stem is slender, the branches are thin and weak, the leaves are alternate, and the leaf blades are irregularly pinnately lobed with serrated edges. The whole plant has sparse hairs and milky sap. Flowers are solitary at the top of the branches, the pedicel is long, the flower bud nods, and when the flower opens it immediately becomes erect. Most horticultural cultivars are double-flowered. The flower colors of corn poppy are extremely rich and brilliant, including vermilion, dark purple, bright pink, snow white, and tricolor, etc. The flower only opens for 1 to 2 days before falling, but the buds are numerous and open successively. The flowering period is May to June. The capsule is spherical, the fruit ripening period is July, and the seeds are very small.
Corn poppy is native to Asia and Europe, and is also distributed in North America. It is cold tolerant and suitable for sufficient light and a cool climate environment in spring, and cannot tolerate severe heat and humidity. It is usually sown in drills in flower bed plots in early winter. It has no strict requirements for soil, but loose, fertile sandy loam is best. The row spacing is 20 cm. After sowing, cover with plastic film, or sow in early spring when the surface soil has just thawed, and gradually remove the plastic film after emergence. Corn poppy is a taproot flower, with fine, slender and deep roots and few lateral roots. During the seedling stage, the root length often exceeds the plant height by about 1 times, so it cannot be transplanted. If transplanted reluctantly, the survival rate is also very low. When drill-sown seedlings are relatively dense, thin them two or three times at intervals, maintaining a plant spacing of 10 to 15 cm. Corn poppy does not have high requirements for water and fertilizer, but it avoids heavy water and heavy fertilizer and soil waterlogging.
Corn poppy is excellent material for flower beds, flower borders and flower strips. It can also be sown in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame in January, and taken out in late April for use as a flower for the May 1 holiday. For home flower growing, it can be cultivated on a south-facing enclosed balcony. In January, use a flower pot with an inner diameter of 20 cm, fill it more than half full with loose old potting soil, press it flat, scatter 20 to 30 seeds, cover with soil just enough that the seeds cannot be seen, and after sowing, immerse the pot in water to soak it. When the seedlings emerge, thin them several times, removing the weak and keeping the strong, and finally keep 3 to 5 plants for final planting. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, gradually fill in planting soil up to the rim to prevent the slender stems from lodging. Keep sufficient light and fresh ambient air, with nighttime temperatures not lower than 5°C, and avoid drought and waterlogging. It can bloom in March and last until May 1.
Corn poppy and opium poppy belong to the same family, not only resembling each other in appearance but also sharing the same habits. The only difference is that opium poppy has a larger plant shape and fruit, and the whole plant is covered with bristles, while corn poppy is smaller and the whole plant is covered with sparse hairs. But corn poppy is suspected by some people of being the drug opium. In fact, although corn poppy has milky sap in its body, its components do not contain laudanum. Its flowers can be made into a gargle with an antitussive effect, and its milky sap has analgesic and anti-diarrheal effects. On a bright warm spring day, patches of corn poppy in the courtyard green space compete to bloom, like clusters of red clouds and also like squares of silk handkerchiefs. When the breeze moves them, both people and flowers feel as if they are floating.
4. Calceolaria
Calceolaria is a herbaceous plant of the genus Calceolaria in the family Scrophulariaceae. The flower colors include yellow, purple, red, milky white, orange-red, and dark brown, etc. The flowers are adorned with colorful spots and markings, very lovely, and are often used for indoor decorative display. It blooms from December to February of the following year, and the flowering period under greenhouse cultivation is March to April.
Calceolaria is native to the Mexico and Chile area. It likes cool and humid conditions and can grow indoors in winter at 3°C to 6°C. During the growth period, relatively high air humidity must be maintained, and attention should be paid to ventilation. Sufficient light is beneficial to the plant's flowering.
Ventilation and shading: Calceolaria likes cool conditions, and the suitable growth temperature is about 10°C. If during the growth period the stems and leaves develop luxuriantly, and the potting soil is too wet plus it is stuffy and hot, the stem parts of the plant will rot. To reduce the temperature, shading measures are often taken at noon to create a ventilated and cool environment. Especially after flowering in spring and from May to June when the seeds mature, ventilation work must be done even better, and shading at noon is beneficial to the seeds' development and maturation.
Watering and fertilizing: Calceolaria likes a warm and humid environment, but avoids overly wet potting soil and excessive watering during flowering. Generally, water only when the potting soil is dry. If in a greenhouse, frequently spraying water to increase air humidity is even better. When watering, do not directly wash the plant. If water accumulates on the leaves and buds, it easily causes rot. In the growth season before flowering, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 10 days (diluted 10 times). At the early flowering stage, increase the application of phosphorus-based fertilizer. When fertilizing, do not let fertilizer water contaminate the leaves, so as to avoid rotting hearts and leaves.
Propagation techniques: Calceolaria is generally propagated by sowing. When seeds are lacking, division can also be used. Sowing should be carried out after the high-temperature period when the weather turns cool, that is, in August to September, because during the high-temperature period seedlings are prone to damping-off and rot. Use leaf mold or peat soil mixed with half sand, sieve and disinfect it, then put it into a shallow pot, fill with enough water by the immersion method, and then sow. The seeds of Calceolaria are very small, in the form of relatively coarse powder-like granules. When sowing, it is best to first fold thick paper into a small triangular funnel, place the seeds in it, then hold the lower part of the small funnel with the right hand so that the seeds fall evenly into the sowing pot. Do not make it too dense, otherwise the seedlings will grow thin and weak after emergence. For covering soil, simply use a fine sieve to cover with a thin layer of fine soil (it does not matter if no soil is used). After sowing, cover the pot with glass to maintain humidity. Before emergence, place it in a cool place, keep the temperature at about 20°C, and emergence can occur in about 7 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the glass, thin the seedlings, and gradually let them receive sunlight, lowering the temperature to about 15°C.
When the seedlings show 2 true leaves, they can be transplanted. When they grow 4 to 6 true leaves, they can be potted individually. Use a culture soil mixed with 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part barnyard manure, 1 part sand, and 6 parts garden soil, with a pH value of 6.5. In November to December, they can be planted into large pots for final planting.
5. Cockscomb
Cockscomb, also known as red cockscomb and rooster amaranth, is named because its inflorescence is twisted and folded like a cockscomb. It is an annual herbaceous plant with a plant height of 30 to 50 cm. The stem is erect, and the upper part of the stem is flat, green or red. Leaves alternate, ovate, ovate-lanceolate or lanceolate, gradually narrowed at the tip, entire, with petioles. The spike is terminal, and the floral axis is flat and fleshy, in the shape of a cockscomb, yellow, white or red-purple, with a velvety luster. The flowering period is July to October. The utricle is ovate, circumscissile, containing 4 seeds. The seeds are black and glossy, with a 1000-grain weight of 0.85 g. Used for flower beds and flower borders, and can also be potted. It is also relatively good as a cut flower, and the vase time can reach more than 10 days.
Cockscomb has four types, namely child-and-mother cockscomb, common cockscomb, garden wool cockscomb and phoenix-tail cockscomb. In addition, there are many cultivars. Divided by plant height, there are dwarf types (20 to 30 cm), medium-stem types (40 to 60 cm) and tall-stem types (higher than 60 cm); divided by flowering period, there are differences between early-flowering and late-flowering. The colors range from very pale yellow (nearly white) to golden yellow, brown-yellow, and from jade red, rose red, orange-red to purple-red, and there are also compound colors such as speckled gold and Erqiao, which are mixtures of yellow and red lines.
Cockscomb is native to India. It likes a hot and dry climate and fears waterlogging. It grows well in sunny, fertile sandy soil, avoids sticky soil, and grows poorly in barren, non-breathable soil, with the inflorescence becoming smaller. It can self-sow and propagate.
Propagation by sowing: sow in the open-field seedbed in spring from March to April. When sowing, it is not suitable to cover with soil. After covering with grass, water and keep the soil moist. After germination, remove the covering grass. Transplant when there are 2 leaves. When the seedlings grow to 5 to 10 cm, carry out final planting or potting. No fertilizer is needed at the seedling stage, otherwise the side branches will grow vigorously and affect the development of the main branch. After the cockscomb is formed, apply thin fertilizer to promote its growth. Seeds are prone to variation, so careful selection is necessary every year when saving seeds.
Cockscomb flowering time can be regulated by controlling the sowing period. Generally, sowing can be carried out from March to June, and sowing according to flower use needs can meet the demand for holiday flowers.
Growth habits: It likes a warm and dry climate, fears drought, likes sunlight, and cannot tolerate waterlogging, but has no strict requirements for soil. Generally, it can be planted in any courtyard soil. It is a new way to develop the courtyard economy at present, and people of insight might as well give it a try.
Propagation and cultivation: Seed propagation method. Around Qingming, choose a good plot, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow finely and harrow evenly, level and make beds, scatter the seeds evenly on the bed surface, cover lightly so the seeds are just barely covered, firm the soil, and water thoroughly. Generally, at a temperature of 15 to 20°C, emergence can occur in 10 to 15 days. For summer sowing after Mangzhong, sow at a row spacing of 30 cm. When the seedlings are 6 cm tall, thin them at a plant spacing of 20 cm. The thinned seedlings can be transplanted to other fields, and after transplanting they must be watered. During the seedling stage, weeds must be removed and the soil loosened. When it is not too dry, water as little as possible. When the seedlings are 30 cm tall, apply 1 topdressing. After the rows close, appropriately remove old leaves. When flowering and heading, if the weather is dry, water appropriately. In the rainy season, strictly prevent water accumulation in low-lying areas. After heading, the flower buds in the leaf axils of the lower part can be removed to help nutrients concentrate on the growth of the top main spike.
Pest and disease control: If root rot occurs at the seedling stage, quicklime can be broadcast in the field. During the growth period, cotton bollworm is likely to occur, and spraying the leaf surface with dimethoate or pyrethroid pesticides can provide control.
Harvest and processing: Generally around White Dew, the seeds gradually turn black and mature. The flower stems can be cut off in time and placed in a ventilated place to dry. When drying, take them out early and bring them back late, and do not let them be exposed to night dew, so as to avoid deterioration and reduced medicinal efficacy, then bag and store them.
6. Garden balsam
Garden balsam is also called nail grass, Tougucao, golden phoenix flower and sajinhua. Its place of origin is China and India, and it can be planted in flower pots or flower beds. Garden balsam is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant, about 25 to 35 cm tall. The flowers include white, pink, orange-red, copper-red, etc. The flower types include single and double forms. It is a very beautiful plant.
The suitable temperature for garden balsam germination is 22°C to 30°C. Sowing period: March to April or September to October
The suitable temperature for garden balsam growth is 15°C to 32°C. Flowering period: May to July and December to February.
I. Before planting:
Flower growth is closely related to various factors in the natural environment. Among factors such as temperature, light, moisture and growing medium, temperature is the main factor affecting flower growth. If an air conditioner or heater is used indoors to regulate temperature, planting will not be affected by the seasons, but after emergence, the plants must be placed by a sunny window so that they can receive as much sufficient sunlight as possible.
II. When planting:
Okay, now it is time to prepare to start sowing. Please confirm again before sowing: whether the conditions required for seed germination and growth are now available.
III. Planting:
1. When planting, pay special attention that at most only a thin layer of soil can cover the surface of the flower seeds, 1 to 3 times the diameter of the flower seeds (be as accurate as possible; feeling is also important). If the seeds are buried too deep, it will make seed germination difficult.
2. Adjust the spray bottle to mist mode and spray an appropriate amount of water on it;
3. Cover the mouth of the flower pot with glass or plastic film to reduce water evaporation;
4. Place the flower pot in a dark place without light, and remember to open it for 15 to 20 minutes every day for ventilation;
5. Flower seeds generally germinate in about 10 to 15 days. Be patient while waiting for germination. Sometimes factors such as temperature changes will affect the seed germination time, so please wait patiently.
IV. Emergence:
1. The seeds have germinated! At this time, please wait until the first pair of leaves on the sprout opens symmetrically, then immediately remove the covering (glass plate, plastic film), and place it in a sunny place, avoiding direct sunlight, pay attention to temperature changes, and do not water excessively.
2. When the first pair of cotyledons has fully opened and turned green, it is necessary to gradually increase the duration of direct sunlight.
3. When the first pair of true leaves grows, place it in all-day direct sunlight, and pay attention to the dryness of the growing medium, giving water appropriately; when the second pair of true leaves grows, it shows that the most difficult stage of planting has been passed. As long as temperature and moisture are well controlled, garden balsam will grow robustly.
V. Light:
1. If the plant lacks light, leggy growth often occurs, making the plant slender, thin and weak and prone to lodging. The lighting time should be increased.
2. Turn the flower pot as often as possible so that the branches and leaves of the plant receive sunlight from all angles and grow fully
VI. Care:
1. When the seedlings grow to nearly one cun, keep the robust plants and "move house" for the rest - repotting
2. When repotting, be careful and do not damage the fibrous roots. When moving the seedling out, dig a pit of appropriate width and depth in the center of the flower pot, let its root system spread fully, cover with growing medium, press lightly, and then water an appropriate amount.
VII. Watering:
1. During the emergence period, the soil needs to be kept moist. After emergence, it is better to keep it somewhat on the dry side, with the surface soil dry and the interior still moist;
2. Try to water in the morning, avoiding sunlight
3. It is best to let the water sit for 4 to 6 minutes first to dissipate the chlorine in the tap water
4. When watering, it is best to use a fine-hole pot, starting from a place far from the plant and gradually moving closer to the plant, watering more around it and less near the plant, and try not to splash it on the leaves and stems.;
7. Lily
Lily is a perennial root-vegetable crop. Its main edible part is the bulb. Besides being used as a vegetable, processed products are also widely used in medicine and health foods.
Ziyuan County has a long history of planting lilies, but due to long-term mixed cultivars, extensive cultivation and management, the unit yield is relatively low. To obtain better economic benefits from planting lilies, great effort must be put into cultivation.
1. Plot selection: It is suitable to choose acidic sandy loam with sufficient light, deep soil layers, convenient irrigation and drainage, and a pH value of 5.7 to 6.3 for cultivation. The previous crop is best as legumes or grasses. Rotation should be carried out, and continuous cropping is not suitable.
2. Selection of improved cultivars: There are many lily cultivars, mainly Longya lily, Yixing lily and Lanzhou lily. Ziyuan County mostly uses Longya lily, which has large heads, good quality, strong stress resistance, vigorous growth and high yield. Generally, small bulbs (single fruit weight 30 to 50 g) are used for propagation. Lily bulbs easily carry diseases, so robust bulbs with no bottom rot, no disease spots and no mechanical damage must be selected as seed bulbs to ensure neat emergence and few infections. When planted in the current year, a harvest can be obtained the following year. If the seed source is insufficient, scale propagation can also be used, but it must be planted continuously for three years before harvest. Seeds are collected in July, stored in sand for after-ripening, and sown from late August to September.
3. Land preparation and sowing: Before planting, in August, scatter about 100 kg of lime per mu, deep-plow the soil two to three times, then apply 30 to 40 kg of potassium sulfate three-element compound fertilizer per mu, prepare the land and make beds. The bed surface width is about 1 m and the bed height is 20 to 30 cm, so that there is no waterlogging. Then open furrows for planting. At the bottom of the furrow, apply decomposed chopped cattle pen manure, chicken manure, burnt soil ash, tung oil cake and other organic fertilizers at 1200 to 1500 kg per mu, cover with a thin layer of soil, then plant. The seed bulbs must not touch the organic fertilizer. If rapeseed cake is used, the lily turns yellow and the export grade is low; if pig manure is applied, pests are likely to occur. The planting density is 30 x 20 cm, the seed quantity per mu is 125 to 150 kg, and the harvest amount after one year of planting is 4 to 6 times the seed quantity.
4. Pest and disease control:
Disease control: The main diseases of lily are damping-off and root rot. Before planting, first soak the seeds in 300 times formalin for 5 minutes, then dry them in the shade and sow. After emergence, use 1000 times 80% mancozeb or 1000 times 25% carbendazim or 600 to 800 times 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, using them in rotation once every 7 to 10 days, and spray continuously 2 to 3 times.
Pest control: For underground pests, 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate or 50% fenaminosulf can be mixed into poisonous soil and evenly scattered into the planting furrows; for aphids, spray 2000 times 10% imidacloprid wettable powder, once every 7 to 10 days.
5. Timely harvest: It can be harvested every year from July to August. Harvesting on a sunny day one week before the Start of Autumn gives the highest yield; harvesting after the stems and leaves wither in late autumn is also possible, but the dry slice rate is low, and the benefit is not as good as the former. At harvest, large bulbs can be sold fresh or processed into dry slices, and small bulbs below 50 g are all kept as seed.
8. Bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is native to Hebei and Northeast China. It likes a semi-shady environment with sufficient scattered light and is relatively cold tolerant, but fears midsummer heat and high temperatures and fears strong light exposure. Therefore, it is suitable to place it under large trees in the courtyard, under grape trellises, on the shady side of tall buildings, or on east-facing or north-facing balconies. During the summer dormancy period, place it in a well-ventilated shady place, where it must not receive direct light, and often sprinkle water on the nearby ground to increase air humidity and lower the temperature.
Ecological habits:
Cold tolerant, avoids high temperatures, likes shady and humid environments and loose, fertile neutral soil. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. By midsummer the stems and leaves wither and yellow, and it enters dormancy. It goes dormant in hot summers. It cannot tolerate drought and likes moist, well-drained fertile sandy loam. It grows poorly in sandy soil and clay soil. It avoids direct sunlight. The flowering period is April to June. It sprouts relatively early in spring, and after flowering until summer the stems and leaves gradually yellow and it goes dormant.
Propagation of bleeding heart:
For propagation and cultivation, division, cuttings and sowing can all be used.
Division propagation method for bleeding heart.
It is suitable to carry out in early spring in February after the buds begin to sprout and before new leaves grow. When dividing, dig up the entire plant, shake off the soil from the roots, then use a knife to cut off the tender rhizomes around the main rhizome together with roots, divide into 2 to 3 plants, and plant them in a previously prepared seedbed, covering with 2 to 3 cm of soil, water thoroughly, and place in a shady place. After autumn when the plant enters dormancy, division can also be done, similar to early spring division. Timing must be appropriate. If the old plant's new leaves have already unfolded before division, the root system is easily damaged and the survival rate is low. Division can also be done during the late autumn dormancy period, but the survival rate is not high. Division can only be done once every 2 or 3 years, not every year.
The commonly used method is division. Before sprouting in March, dig out the underground part, remove old roots and rotten roots, separate the rhizomes naturally along the segments, with each piece bearing 3 to 5 buds, and replant. It can bloom in May of the same year. In spring, break off basal shoots for cuttings, and roots can develop in about 1 month. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Cutting propagation method for bleeding heart
Cutting medium: Choose loose, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus as the medium, with a pH value between 5 and 6. Before use, it is best to disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
Cutting time: Carry out from June to July every year. At this time there is more rain, and the soil temperature and air temperature are also relatively suitable, so the cutting survival rate is high.
For softwood cuttings, in June and July, after all the flowers have faded, select branches that are plump in growth and development and have relatively full axillary buds, cut off the inflorescence, and after 7 to 10 days cut the robust lower branches with axillary buds into sections of 2 to 3 nodes, each section about 10 to 15 cm long, keep one leaf at the upper end, and remove some small leaves. Insert 2 nodes into the soil, with the upper node and its small leaves exposed above the soil surface. The plant and row spacing is 10 cm x 10 cm.
Dip the cut end in sulfur powder or plant ash, insert into plain soil, water and place in a shady place, often spray water on the cuttings, but control watering of the potting soil, keeping it slightly moist and not dry. Roots can form in more than a month. The following spring, pot and plant with soil. With good management, it can bloom in the same year. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the branch length. The cutting bed can use sandy loam or sandy soil. Never apply fertilizer. After cutting, water thoroughly and shade. Generally, roots can form in 30 to 40 days.
Management after cutting:
After cutting, water thoroughly once with a fine-hole watering can so that the cuttings are in close contact with the medium. Cover the bed surface with an arched shed, cover with plastic film, and cover with straw curtains to create a semi-shady environment. Control the temperature at about 25°C. When too high, ventilate appropriately to lower the temperature, and always keep the bed soil moist. Roots can form in about 40 days. Gradually remove the shed film and straw curtains. The following spring, transplant and plant, and it can bloom in the same year.
Plant in March to April, cuttings mostly in late March, and sowing mostly in autumn. Ground-planted bleeding heart needs covering for insulation in winter. Potted plants are mostly divided or repotted around late March. In hot summer, place in a semi-shady place. In the rainy season, pay attention to preventing water accumulation in the pot.
Or cut the rhizome into sections for propagation. In autumn, dig out the underground part, separate the rhizomes naturally along the segments, and plant them separately. In addition, the rhizome can be cut into sections, each with buds, inserted into sand, and after rooting, planted in pots. For seed propagation, seedlings must be cultivated for 3 years before they can bloom.
Sowing propagation method for bleeding heart.
When the seeds mature in late June, harvest them in time. Cut off the inflorescence and dry it in the sun, winnow the seeds clean, then scatter them in the seedbed, water thoroughly, and emergence can occur in about 15 days. Cover in winter to protect the seedlings through the winter. In the following spring, plant the robust young seedlings, with a plant and row spacing of 30 to 50 cm being suitable. Seedlings from sowing need 3 years before they can bloom.
It is generally not used for home propagation, and is only used by landscaping departments for mass propagation or for breeding new hybrid cultivars.
Cultivation of bleeding heart
For ground planting, choose a place with relatively high terrain. Before planting, deeply plow the bed soil and apply decomposed organic fertilizer; during the growth period, topdressing can be carried out together with irrigation; in summer high temperatures, when the stems and leaves wither and yellow and it enters dormancy, the dead branches can be cut off. Watering thoroughly once before Frost's Descent is beneficial for cold protection. For potting, use lightweight culture soil with added fertilizer, water thoroughly after planting, and place in a sunny place for care; during the growth period, provide sufficient fertilizer and water. Move it less during the flowering period, so as not to affect the ornamental value by dropping flowers; after flowering, if seeds are not needed, promptly cut off the faded flowers.
Management of bleeding heart
Bleeding heart is cold tolerant and likes shade, and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It grows well when planted in loam rich in humus. Generally, it should be watered once a week. During the flower bud formation period, apply decomposed fertilizer water 1 to 2 times. It does not need too much watering; keeping it moist is enough. During the growth period, apply once every 2 to 3 weeks with decomposed urine diluted 5 times with water. If directly sown in a flower bed, thin the seedlings when there are 5 leaves, with a plant spacing of 30 cm. In March of the following year, apply again with decomposed urine diluted 3 times with water, and wait for it to bloom. In July, collect the black fruits, dry them in the sun, thresh and collect the seeds
Pests and diseases of bleeding heart
For scale insects, spray with 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate; sometimes leaf spot disease occurs, which can be controlled by spraying with 600 times dilution of 65% zineb wettable powder.
For leaf spot disease, spray with 600 times dilution of 65% zineb wettable powder. For pest damage, there is damage by scale insects, which can be killed by spraying with 1500 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.
9. Daylily
Hemerocallis hybrida, a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Hemerocallis in the family Liliaceae, is native to China, Japan and Eurasia, and is now widely cultivated around the world. It is an excellent perennial garden flower.
Hemerocallis fulva 'Flore Pleno' (large-flowered daylily) has strong drought resistance, tolerates high temperatures, resists low cold, and adapts to a wide temperature range; it can be planted from south to north throughout our country. It has strong disease resistance and wide adaptability to soil, generally able to grow in any soil except those that are too acidic, too alkaline, too sandy, or too clayey, with a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5 being best.
Propagation Methods
Dividing daylily clumps is the most commonly used propagation method. This method is simple to perform, the plants survive easily, and growth is relatively uniform. Division can be done by digging up the entire mother clump and replanting it, or by digging out part of the plants from one side of the mother clump as seedlings while leaving the rest to continue growing.
Division is mostly carried out in spring before sprouting or in autumn after leaf drop. If divided and transplanted in spring, the plants can bolt and bloom the same year; if divided and transplanted in autumn, they will only bolt and bloom the following year. When transplanting, choose plants that are vigorous, have many flower buds, are of good quality, and are free of pests and diseases.
When dividing, dig out a portion of the tillers from the clump as seedlings; the dug-out portion must have roots. Cut apart at the short compressed stem, remove old roots, rotted roots, and diseased roots, retain as many fleshy roots as possible, cut them appropriately shorter (leaving about 10 cm), and then plant. Planting should be done on a sunny day, digging seedlings, dividing seedlings, and planting seedlings as you go, injuring the roots as little as possible so the plants recover quickly. Generally divide once every 2 to 3 years to ensure vigorous growth of the plants.
Sowing is a method for rapidly producing seedlings in large quantities, but because the seed germination rate is low, the seeds must first be soaked to germinate, and the plants can only be set out one year after sowing. The seed collection period begins around September each year; the plants are required to be robust, the fruits full, and free of pests and diseases. Sowing takes place the following spring.
The seedbed should first be given sufficient base fertilizer; the bed should be 1.3 to 1.7 m wide and about 30 m long, with drainage ditches dug on both sides. When sowing, open shallow furrows about 3 cm deep every 20 cm, sow the seeds evenly into the furrows, cover with a layer of fine soil, then spread a thin layer of fine sand. Before emergence, water and weed, maintaining good soil moisture, and by autumn the seedlings can be lifted and planted. Each mu of seedbed uses 2.5 kg of seed and can raise 50,000 to 60,000 seedlings.
Seeds can also be soaked to promote germination and then sown in the open field to raise seedlings, with a sowing rate of 5 to 7 kg per mu, using flat-ground drilling. Open furrows at a row spacing of 30 cm, about 3 cm deep, sow one seed every 3 to 5 cm, and after the plants grow 2 to 3 leaves, apply one application of dilute human and animal manure. For overwintering, use a small arched shed for cold protection; after spring begins, strengthen field management, and by August they can be transplanted. Seeds collected from evergreen daylily can be sown directly, or stored at room temperature and then sown.
Division by buds and flower buds refers to the small plants on the flower stems of the large-flowered daylily. The flower buds can be cut from the flower stems; if they are relatively large, they can be further divided before planting. After transplanting, the flower buds can take root within a week. Rooted flower buds can be used to propagate plants, increasing the number planted and ultimately improving economic returns.
Tissue culture uses tender leaves, filaments, flower scapes and other organs to cultivate plants. The method is to first induce the tender organs to produce callus tissue, then culture them into young plantlets using an appropriate medium under suitable conditions of temperature, humidity, light, and air. Then the plantlets are temporarily planted in nutrient pots and, after a period of cultivation, grown into young plants, after which they are set out. However, this method has not yet been widely accepted.
In addition to the four methods described above, other methods can also be used to propagate the large-flowered daylily. Individual clonal plants can be divided into thin slices with growing points and root systems, and after about 6 months of planting they can be divided again. When dividing, these plants must not be smaller than 1/4 of the original plant. Another method is to cut the top of the corolla and use plant growth regulators to strengthen the vitality of the cut plants, carry out in vitro culture to promote rooting, and then plant them.
Planting
Large-flowered daylily is mostly planted in early spring in early March before sprouting. Although the large-flowered daylily is not strict about soil, because it can grow for many years after planting, attention should be paid to the choice of planting site. It is best to choose flat land with a low groundwater table or sloping land with good water sources and irrigation conditions, with good drainage, loose soil, and deep soil layers. Newly reclaimed wasteland must have the soil fully weathered, or organic fertilizer applied to increase its organic matter content. The land must be leveled; because the large-flowered daylily has strong tillering ability, the plant and row spacing must be maintained at 40 to 50 cm when planting. Dig holes for planting; the holes should be triangular, planting 3 to 5 plants. Planting should not be too deep or too shallow; if too deep, tillering is slow; if too shallow, although tillering is fast, the plants mostly grow thin and weak. Generally the planting hole is more than 30 cm deep, base fertilizer is applied down to 15 to 20 cm from the ground surface, and after planting the soil is covered and compacted. Each mu uses 500 to 600 kg of human and animal manure mixed with water for spot application to establish the seedlings, ensuring the survival rate.
Management
Fertilization: The large-flowered daylily has a long flowering period and a relatively large demand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer at planting (well-rotted cow dung or pig dung is preferable), fertilizer should also be applied according to the needs of different developmental stages. When nitrogen is sufficient, it can promote robust plant growth and larger leaves. Phosphorus can promote root growth, enhance tillering ability, help the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, enhance bud formation ability, and promote drought resistance, cold resistance, and disease resistance, improving quality. When potassium supply is sufficient, the plant tissues are tough, growth is robust, and disease resistance is strong; in the middle and late stages it can make the flower scapes emerge neatly and thickly, the flower buds develop plump, and the bud-forming ability increases. Therefore, fertilizer should be applied twice before and during the flowering period, each time mainly with quick-acting fertilizer, combined with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer alone should be avoided. A 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate spray can also be applied to promote larger flowers and can achieve the effect of extending the flowering period.
Irrigation: The large-flowered daylily has relatively strong drought resistance and does not need much water during the vegetative growth period, so irrigation should be based on the water needs of the daylily at each growth and development stage, combined with local climate, soil, and water source conditions. After new seedlings are transplanted, the soil water-holding capacity must be maintained at 70% to 80%, and they should be watered promptly in drought. During the seedling stage the plants are small and their water demand is also small. From the beginning of reproductive growth, the water demand gradually increases; if water is lacking at this time, growth will be affected. During the flower bud stage, the soil must be kept moist at all times to prevent the flower buds from dropping due to drought, generally watering once every week. Watering should be thorough and even, preferably in the morning and evening. In July and August there is a large amount of rain, so drainage and waterlogging prevention are necessary. Before winter begins, winter irrigation should be applied to ensure early sprouting the following year.
Weeding: After planting and during the seedling stage, timely cultivating and weeding should be carried out. During the seedling stage, cultivating should be shallow rather than deep; as the seedlings age, cultivation should be deepened. Before spring seedlings emerge, carry out one shallow loosening of the soil; after emergence, shallow hoeing 3 to 4 times at appropriate times can achieve the dual purpose of weeding and drought prevention. Cultivating and weeding should be done when soil moisture is moderate, and can stop once the leaf clusters cover the ground. Promptly remove weeds from the daylily field; if weeds grow in profusion, they can easily cause pests and diseases, affecting the growth and appearance of the daylily.
Weeding can be done either by traditional manual weeding or by using herbicides suitable for the large-flowered daylily. Sethoxydim, also known as Nabuqing, is a selective pre-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment agent that can control grass weeds such as barnyardgrass, wild oat, foxtail, goosegrass, and bermudagrass; penoxalin, also known as aminonitrophenol, is a selective pre-emergence soil treatment agent with very good pre-emergence control of annual narrow-leaf weeds and certain broadleaf weeds, such as crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, shortawn foxtail, and annual bluegrass and other annual grass weeds, as well as lamb's quarters, amaranth, chickweed, Galinsoga, and mustard and other broadleaf weeds; metolachlor, also known as isopropylmetolachlor, is a selective pre-emergence dryland soil treatment agent used to control barnyardgrass, crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtail, and lovegrass and other annual grass weeds, and also controls amaranth, purslane, shepherd's purse, Galinsoga, chickweed and other small-seeded broadleaf weeds and rice flatsedge, with poor control of perennial weeds and most broadleaf weeds; fluazifop-butyl, a post-emergence stem-and-leaf treatment herbicide, has good control of annual and perennial grass weeds, but is ineffective against broadleaf weeds and sedges. In addition, there are also Surflan and Snapshot, among others, all of which can be used to control weeds in large-flowered daylily fields.
Pest and disease control: Rust, leaf spot, and leaf blight are diseases to which daylily is highly susceptible. Rust is a fungal disease and is the main disease of daylily in the middle and late stages; it begins to occur in early May, is most severe from June to July, and does not gradually stop until after October, damaging leaves and flower scapes. At first a few yellow powdery spots appear on the leaves, then gradually spread to the entire leaf, until the whole plant dies; when the disease occurs, fungicides such as triadimefon and fungicide sodium can be sprayed for control. Leaf spot is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium and is the main disease of daylily during the seedling stage; it begins to occur from late March to early April, with the peak incidence from mid-to-late April to mid-to-late May. It often occurs in the middle part on both sides of the leaf midrib; after perforation it interrupts the transport of water and nutrients, the leaf tips turn yellow first, and finally the whole leaf wilts and dies. Bordeaux mixture or lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed for control.;
Leaf blight is caused by pathogenic fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and is a seedling-stage disease that occurs after leaf spot. It generally begins in early May, is most severe in early to mid-June, mainly damaging leaves and also damaging flower scapes. It occurs from the seedling stage; at first water-soaked small spots appear at the middle edge of the leaf, then gradually spread upward and downward, forming brown streaks, finally turning grayish white, and in severe cases the whole leaf dies. It can be controlled by spraying 600 to 800 times dilution of 50% carbendazim, or by spraying Bordeaux mixture around Qingming.
The main pests of daylily are red spiders and aphids. Red spiders are small, spider-like red mites that mainly pierce and suck sap on the underside of leaves, causing grayish white small spots at the damaged areas. They can be controlled with 40% dimethoate emulsion, 20% clofentezine wettable powder, and the like. Aphids mainly occur in May, first damaging leaves, then piercing and sucking sap on flower buds; the damaged flower buds are thin and small and easily drop. They can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture, 40% dimethoate emulsion, 25% malathion emulsifiable concentrate, tobacco-lime water, and the like. In addition, in trials on the propagation of the large-flowered daylily, it was found that from May to August snails cause relatively serious damage to the large-flowered daylily, and control measures should be taken promptly.
10. Amaryllis
Amaryllis, also known as belladonna lily, hundred-branch lotus, and trumpet flower, is a plant of the genus Hippeastrum in the Amaryllidaceae family. The amaryllis flower scape stands gracefully upright, with 4 to 6 vermilion trumpet-shaped flowers borne at the top, opening toward the sun, appearing especially gorgeous and pleasing. Because the amaryllis closely resembles the clivia in appearance, it also has the elegant name "gentleman red." In Tianjin it is called "rouge cave," which is quite a clever name. It is now widely cultivated throughout the world; besides potted ornamental use, it is planted in open-field courtyards to form community landscapes, adding to the garden scenery. In recent years, European and American horticulturists, to make it easier for flower growers, have specially produced amaryllis as canned flowers. To date, production in Europe is relatively large; the main producing country, the Netherlands, saw amaryllis sales output value reach 19.1 million USD in 1995, and Belgium, Germany, France, and Spain all have certain production. In Asia, eastern India produces amaryllis bulbs, but production facilities are backward and quality is poor. In our country, during the period from 1912 to 1949, Nanjing, Shanghai, and other places already had potted ornamental amaryllis, and in the 1970s planting began in southern China around open-field courtyards as landscape appreciation. In recent years, many fine varieties have been introduced from abroad across the country, many of them dwarf varieties suitable for potted ornamental use, creating conditions for the development and utilization of amaryllis.
Seeding and division are commonly used for propagation.
Seed propagation: From May to June, use indoor pot sowing; the suitable germination temperature is 18 to 22°C, and germination occurs about 20 days after sowing. During the seedling stage, pay attention to fertilizer and water management; when the true leaves reach 3 to 4, carry out the first transplanting, maintaining a certain plant spacing. From sowing to flowering takes 3 to 4 years.
Division propagation: For potted amaryllis, carry it out when repotting from February to March; before dividing, first remove old roots and old soil, separate the small bulbs growing beside the mother bulb, and pot them separately according to bulb size; generally flowering bulbs have a circumference of 24 to 26 cm. When planting, 1/3 of the bulb is exposed above the soil surface. Plant in March, and they flower from April to May.
In recent years, scale cutting, notching, and tissue culture methods have been widely used abroad to propagate amaryllis.
Scale cutting propagation: Choose well-developed, disease-free bulbs, peel off the excessively old outer scales, and keep the plump middle scales for propagation, but each scale must carry a stem disc. In September, insert the scales into a sand bed, keep them moist at 18 to 20°C, and by that year small bulbs form and roots grow at the base. The following spring new shoots grow from the small bulbs, and they need to be cultivated for 3 more years to become flowering bulbs.
Notching propagation: Choose bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm, soak the bulbs in 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, wash with water, cut off 1/3 of the bulb, gently notch the main bud in the center of the bulb with a knife, place flat on a sand bed, keep the room temperature at 18 to 22°C, maintain relatively high air humidity, and after 2 months several small bulbs form between the scales.
For potted amaryllis, choose loose, fertile, slightly acidic leaf mold or peat soil. Flowering bulbs with a circumference of 24 to 26 cm require a 12 cm pot; commercial cultivation also uses 18 to 20 cm pots, planting 3 bulbs. The planting depth is based on 1/3 of the bulb being exposed above the pot soil. Water less at first planting; when flower scapes or leaves appear, keep the pot soil moist. During the growth period, fertilize once every half month; after the flower scape emerges, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once. After flowering, continue supplying water and fertilizer to promote plump and well-filled bulbs. In commercial production, amaryllis is often forced; flowering bulbs pretreated at low temperature of 5°C for 50 days, under conditions of soil temperature 21°C and room temperature 17 to 19°C, flower 6 weeks after planting. According to trial reports, soaking bulbs in indoleacetic acid can increase the weight and number of small bulbs. Soaking bulbs in gibberellin (GA3) can increase bulb weight and enlarge flower diameter. Soaking in chlormequat (CCC) can increase the number of flowers. Spraying amaryllis leaves with indoleacetic acid, gibberellin, and chlormequat can likewise increase the number of small bulbs and flowers.
If amaryllis seeds are to be collected, artificial pollination should be carried out to increase the seed-setting rate. Because amaryllis seeds are flat and extremely thin and easily lose water and lose germination ability, they should be sown immediately after collection. If producing bulbs, promptly cut off the flower scapes after flowering to avoid consuming bulb nutrients. After leaves grow, strengthen fertilization to promote bulb enlargement and the production of new bulbs. Bulbs can be stored for 8 to 10 weeks at 13°C, and can be stored long-term at 5°C.
The main diseases are viral disease, leaf spot disease, and nematode disease. Leaf spot damages leaves and flowers.
11. Chinese Peony
The Chinese peony is one of our country's traditional famous flowers and has a cultivation history of more than 3,000 years. The Chinese peony's flower forms are varied, the flower colors are gorgeous, the green leaves are elegant, and the plant clumps are full; used for landscaping and ornament, it can lead people into a breathtakingly beautiful fantasy world.
The Chinese peony is a perennial herbaceous flower of the Ranunculaceae family, with a plant height of about 1 m; the flowers are borne singly at the top of the current year's branches, and some are borne in the leaf axils at the top; the flower stem is relatively long, and the flowers are divided into single and double forms, with colors including white, yellow, pink, purple, rose, and many other colors.
The Chinese peony flower has strong cold resistance and can overwinter naturally in the open field in most areas of northern China. However, its heat resistance is relatively poor, and it stops growing in the hot summer. It likes sunlight, but can also grow and bloom in sparse shade. It likes moisture, but fears waterlogging, and is suitable for growing in deep, fertile, and well-drained sandy loam; low-lying saline-alkali land is not suitable for cultivation.
The Chinese peony is commonly propagated by division, with the division time preferably from late August to mid-September. The division method is to dig up clumps that are more than 3 years old, shake off the soil, dry them in the shade until slightly wilted, then take three or four buds as one plant, find the smallest natural connection point and cut it open with a sharp knife, and coat the cut with charcoal powder for antisepsis. To promote new root germination, the fleshy roots can be retained at 15 cm in length and shortened. After division, plant as soon as possible.
The growth characteristic of the Chinese peony is that after sprouting in spring it grows rapidly and blooms, and after flowering it stops growing upward and the number of leaves no longer increases. At the end of autumn all the aboveground stems and leaves die, and underground the long spindle-shaped fleshy roots accumulate sufficient nutrients, buried deep in the soil; at the root crown there are dormant young buds waiting to sprout, which break through the soil when spring returns to the earth the following year.
1. Land requirements:
Choose sandy soil with high terrain, dryness, good drainage, deep soil layers, and looseness and fertility. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, preferably well-rotted cake fertilizer (200 kg/mu) or dried manure (1500 kg/mu), and only after deep plowing and leveling may planting proceed.
2. Planting time and specifications:
The suitable planting time is generally from late August (End of Heat) to late September (Autumn Equinox); for planting density, generally for ornamental use 80 cm x 70 cm may be used, planting about 1,200 plants per mu, and for production use 60 cm x 50 cm may be used, planting about 2,200 plants per mu. When planting, the hole specifications are generally about 35 cm deep and about 20 cm in diameter; the seedling depth is preferably such that the buds are 3 cm below the ground surface; finally fill the hole with soil, tamp it firm, and pile up a 10 cm mound of soil to prevent cold, preserve soil moisture, and serve as a marker. After planting, depending on soil moisture conditions, appropriate watering for overwintering may be done.
3. Field management:
(1) Cultivating and weeding: In the following spring, before the Chinese peony sprouts, level the soil mound from the previous autumn; during the growth period, keep the soil loose and free of weeds, hoeing after rain and hoeing during long drought.
(2) Removing side buds: In addition to the bud borne at the top of the stem, the Chinese peony also bears 3 to 6 side buds in the leaf axils of the upper stem. If the side buds are removed early, nutrients can be concentrated, making the main bud's flower large and full; if the side buds are kept, the flowers bloom abundantly and the ornamental period is long. This can be controlled independently according to need.
(3) Watering and topdressing: The Chinese peony has fleshy roots and a well-developed root system with strong drought resistance, so generally no watering is needed; if there is a long spring drought or dog-day drought, it can be watered once or twice, preferably with uncontaminated river water; in winter, depending on whether the soil is dry or wet, one overwintering watering may also be given. The Chinese peony grows vigorously and has a large fertilizer demand, so fertilizer can be applied twice a year; before winter begins, some slow-release fertilizer can be applied, such as well-rotted cake fertilizer (150 kg/mu) or dried human manure (1500 kg/mu); before or after flowering, some quick-acting fertilizer can be applied, such as compound fertilizer or diammonium (10 to 15 kg/mu), and foliar topdressing can also be combined with it, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate or micronutrient fertilizer, sprayed once every 15 to 20 days.
4. Pest and disease control:
(1) Diseases: Mainly leaf spot, including red spot and brown spot; the peak incidence is generally in the high-temperature, high-humidity summer and autumn seasons. In the early stage of the disease, 800 times dilution of 40% carbendazim can be sprayed on the leaf surface for control; in severe cases, use 500 times dilution of 40% carbendazim sprayed once every 15 days, and 2 to 3 times is enough for control.
(2) Insect pests: Mainly white grubs and nematodes. For white grubs, during the peak occurrence period from July to August, 30% carbofuran (5 kg/mu) or 50% phoxim granules (3 kg/mu) or isofenphos-methyl aqueous solution can be mixed with organic fertilizer or sandy soil to form poisoned bait, evenly broadcast, and then deep-hoed. Nematodes are root-knot nematodes with strong transmissibility and cause relatively serious harm to the Chinese peony; the symptoms are the appearance of galls of varying sizes on the fibrous roots, weak plant growth, yellowing, scorching, and early dropping of leaf edges, and in severe cases the plant becomes dwarfed and even dies. For control, 30% carbofuran granules at 25 g/sq m can be evenly applied to the affected plots during the rainy summer period, followed by deep hoeing 5 to 10 cm. Because root-knot nematodes are aerobic lower animals and mainly live within the 5 to 20 cm soil layer, when applying the pesticide, it must absolutely not be too deep.
12. Chrysanthemum
The chrysanthemum is a short-day plant; in the long-day seasons of spring and summer, it can only carry out vegetative growth. Only after the Beginning of Autumn, as the weather turns cooler and the daylight hours shorten, can flower bud differentiation begin, flower buds form, and gorgeous flowers bloom through the frost.
The chrysanthemum has strong adaptability and is not strict about climate and soil conditions; it is cultivated everywhere in our country, and can grow in both slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soil. Small chrysanthemums have stronger cold resistance than large chrysanthemums, and their flowers do not wither after several severe frosts. At temperatures above 10°C dormant buds can sprout, and a temperature of 20 to 25°C is most suitable for growth. The chrysanthemum is drought-tolerant, fears waterlogging, and likes loose, fertile sandy soil rich in humus, a cool climate, and sufficient sunlight.
Chrysanthemums can be propagated by many methods such as division, cutting, grafting, and sowing. Grafting and sowing have high technical requirements and relatively cumbersome propagation processes; without superb cutting and grafting skills and the selection of good varieties, artificial pollination, and other techniques, it is very difficult to propagate successfully. These two propagation methods are also used only when a large number of seedlings are needed, in nurseries; for home chrysanthemum growing, division and cutting are generally used for propagation.
1. Seed propagation: Before sowing, apply sufficient well-rotted organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, deep plow and harrow finely, and make flat beds. Mix the seeds evenly with fine sand and broadcast, cover with fine soil about 0.5 cm thick, and after sowing cover with a shade net and water thoroughly. In early spring when it is cold, overcast, and rainy, cover with plastic film to maintain soil moisture and temperature. Watering should be done by fine spraying to prevent the soil surface from crusting. After about 10 days the seedlings emerge; remove the shade net or plastic film, and when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves they can be transplanted to the field. Chrysanthemum greens can be direct-sown; in southern China they can be sown in February, and in cold northern regions only in early April, with a seeding rate of about 0.2 kg per mu.
2. Division propagation: In mid-to-late March, the old chrysanthemum greens stubble can be dug out, exposing the root crown, and the lateral buds that already have roots can be cut off together with the old roots and transplanted into the field. Division propagation is more suitable when new shoots are sprouting.
3. Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation can be carried out throughout the growing season, with the highest survival rate for cuttings taken from April to June. The seedbed is best made with new soil mixed with composted and well-rotted organic fertilizer. Cut branches with 3 to 5 nodes and 8 to 10 cm in length, remove the base leaves, and insert to a depth of 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length. After cutting, keep the bed moist, avoid waterlogging; in the high-temperature season shade is needed, and when the temperature is relatively low a plastic film arched shed can be built to keep warm and moist. Generally after 15 days they can be transplanted to the field.
Some people may like to put chrysanthemums in a vase; then here are a few tips for everyone:
1. Before putting chrysanthemums in a vase, first cut off the flower leaves on the lower part of the flower stem that may be submerged in water. Because chrysanthemums have a relatively long flowering period, up to 2 to 3 weeks, but the flower leaves quickly turn yellow; flower leaves submerged in water will compete with the flowers for nutrients and may also breed bacteria.
2. To make the chrysanthemum flowering period last long, not only should the water be changed every day, but each time the water is changed, cut off 1 inch of the stem base submerged in water, so that the water-absorbing channels can always be kept unobstructed.
3. Chrysanthemums in a vase also need a certain amount of nutrients. The simplest method is to put a vitamin tablet in the water, or add 1 teaspoon of white sugar. However, organic nutrients (such as white sugar) will provide a great possibility for bacterial reproduction, so at the same time 1 to 2 drops of bleach or a little bleaching powder can be put into the water to effectively control bacterial reproduction (the dose of bleaching powder should be increased or decreased as appropriate according to the amount of water, the number of flowers, and the purity of the bleaching powder).
13. Wax Begonia
Wax begonia, also known as glass emerald and glass begonia, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Begonia in the Begoniaceae family. It likes well-drained sandy loam rich in humus, is not cold-tolerant, and avoids scorching sun and rain. The single leaves are alternate, ovate to oblong-ovate, and the leaf color includes green, dark red, and so on. The flower colors include bright red, pink, white, and so on, and it blooms in all four seasons.
Seed propagation can be done in all four seasons. First press the pot soil firm and soak it thoroughly. Because the seeds are tiny, mix them with fine sand, spread evenly, and cover lightly with fine sand or not at all. Cover with a glass sheet or film to retain moisture, and they will germinate quickly. When the seedlings grow to 2 to 3 leaves, move them into pots, at which time dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied. When they grow to 4 to 6 cm tall, set them out for normal management.
Cutting propagation: Cut 7 to 10 cm cuttings, dry them in the shade for 1 to 2 hours, keep half a leaf, and insert into sandy soil. Keep the pot soil moist, and they will root quickly; this can be done in all four seasons.
Cultivation and management: The pot soil should be well-drained sandy loam rich in humus. During the growth period, moderate moisture is required, and apply composted dilute liquid fertilizer once every 1 to 2 weeks. Wax begonia likes light, but avoids direct sunlight; too strong light easily makes the leaves curl and develop scorched spots, while insufficient light makes the plants grow thin and weak, affecting flowering. The optimum growth temperature is 20°C, and the minimum temperature is 10°C; lower than that and it is prone to cold damage. In the high-temperature summer season it is in a semi-dormant state and should be placed in a well-ventilated shaded place, and fertilization should be stopped at this time. To make the plant shape full, pinch the tips multiple times during the growth period, and at the same time apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. After 1 to 2 years of planting, wax begonia appears aged; it can be heavily pruned from the base to promote new shoots, and after pinching treatment it can recover its original luxuriant appearance. Change the pot once a year, removing old roots and necrotic roots.
14. Fuchsia
Fuchsia, also known as hanging-bell begonia and lantern begonia, is an evergreen subshrub of the genus Fuchsia in the Onagraceae family. The flowers are borne singly in the leaf axils at the ends of branches; the pedicel is long; the calyx tube is bell-shaped or tubular and often hangs downward. The flower colors include pink, purple-red, apricot yellow, white, and so on; it blooms in all four seasons, most abundantly in spring and autumn. There are many fuchsia varieties, with plant forms and flower postures varying.
Fuchsia is native to South America and likes a mild, cool, and humid environment; its optimum growth temperature is 10°C to 15°C. In summer, it fears strong direct sunlight and high temperatures; in winter, it fears cold below 5°C. No wonder it is called the "delicate lady among flowers." Its fertilizer and water requirements differ according to the season; spring and autumn have relatively large needs, while in the hot summer season fuchsia is in a semi-dormant state and watering must be controlled to avoid root rot and death. Measures such as ventilation and cooling should be taken, water should be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently, and the plants should be placed under a shade shed to ensure safe passage through summer. After the autumn cools it revives; strengthen fertilizer and water management, pinch and shape in a timely manner, and promote lateral branches. Generally, after pinching it can bloom in two to three weeks, so pinching is also often used to control the flowering period. The pot soil is preferably fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam, and it can tolerate weak alkalinity.
After flowering, fuchsia sets fruit with difficulty, so cuttings are usually used for propagation, which can be done throughout the year, but spring is preferable. One-year-old tender branches are the easiest to root; choose robust, plump top branches with three or four nodes, 5 cm to 10 cm long, keep the upper 3 small leaves, and insert to a depth of one node into sandy soil; keep the temperature at 15°C to 20°C; spray water once a day to maintain air humidity, and they can root after two weeks. The plantlets should be potted promptly with culture soil, and pinched promptly to promote lateral branches. Old plants should be repotted every spring, combined with heavy pruning for propagation, and the old roots around them cut off to rejuvenate the plants. Spring cuttings have an advantage, namely that the seedlings have relatively strong heat resistance and mostly do not lose leaves during the dog days. Cuttings taken before the dog days bloom after autumn, hence the saying "raise the young, not the old." If the plants lose leaves in summer, generally after the "Beginning of Autumn" they should be cut back immediately to promote new branches, and liquid fertilizer applied, and they can bloom in autumn.
15. Clivia
Clivia has strong vitality and is easy to cultivate, but to grow it well, the correct cultivation method is indispensable. For a good clivia, cultivation skill and the orchid itself can be split 30-70, which shows the importance of cultivation techniques. Only by understanding the growth habits of clivia can one explore and summarize the correct cultivation techniques, and only then can one grow the orchid with ease and get twice the result with half the effort; only then will the clivia one grows be pleasing to the eye. The growth of clivia is greatly affected by water, soil, fertilizer, light, temperature, and humidity factors. Let me discuss my views on these six aspects:
1. Water: As is well known, plant growth cannot be separated from water; the absorption of nutrients and all physiological activities must depend on water, but different plants have different requirements for water, and the water quality in different places is also different. The requirements of clivia for water are as follows:
The pH of water: Clivia likes neutral or slightly acidic water, with a pH value of about 6.5. The water quality and pH differ from place to place; if it is not neutral or slightly acidic water, consideration should be given to improving it. For example, alkaline water can be neutralized with rice-washing water.
Water quality: Tap water, river water, lake water, and so on differ in water quality from one another; clean water rich in minerals is the best. Tap water has been treated by artificially added chemicals and should usually be stored for a few days before being used to water flowers.
Water content in the soil: The suitable water content should be 20% to 40%, preferably neither dry nor wet. If the water content in the soil is too high for a long time, the air permeability in the soil will become poor, easily causing root rot; conversely, if the water content is too low, it will cause dehydration, leading to shriveling and withering of the roots.
Watering method: The principle of watering is not to water if not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering. The practice of giving a little water at a time, like a dragonfly skimming the water, is extremely harmful. The "dry" mentioned here does not mean dry to the point of no water, but means that the water content in the soil has become relatively low, which is the time to water. People who often grow orchids usually tap the flower pot with their fingers and judge the water content in the soil by the sound produced by the tapping. If the sound produced by tapping is dull, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively high and there is no need to water; conversely, if the sound is crisp, it indicates that the water content in the soil is relatively low and watering should be done immediately. The reason the practice of giving a little water at a time is extremely harmful is that most of the small amount of water is absorbed by the soil or flows away directly along channels formed in the soil, and very little is absorbed by the root system, almost equivalent to not watering at all.;
In addition, when watering, note that the water temperature and soil temperature should be close, and the temperature difference between the two should not be too large; the watering time is preferably in the morning and evening; at noon in summer, when the temperature is very high, it is not suitable to water; watering should avoid the flower center, especially during the period of bolting and flowering, to prevent unclean water from causing heart rot.
2. Soil: The roots of clivia are fleshy roots, suitable for growing in loose, fertile soil with good water permeability and air permeability, so the choice of cultivation soil should strictly consider these four factors.
Soil quality: Humus soil meets the above four requirements and is the first choice for growing orchids. The humus soil is best made of oak leaves (oak tree leaves); leaves of other trees such as larch, hazel, pear, and apple can also be used, but attention must be paid to pesticide factors. Walnut tree leaves are toxic and cannot be used. High-quality humus soil should be moderately rotted tree leaves, with a rotting degree of about 50%; a high rotting degree is not good, as water permeability and air permeability are poor.
To further improve the structure of the humus soil and increase water permeability and air permeability, some larch pine needles, carbon from burned rice husks (not ash), washed river sand, and furnace ash slag can also be added, accounting for 10% to 20%. Compacted and barren ordinary soil is not suitable for growing orchids and will seriously affect the normal growth of clivia.
In addition, the soil pH differs from region to region; neutral or slightly acidic soil should be chosen, with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.
3. Fertilizer: As the saying goes, "For a crop to flower, it all depends on fertilizer." Fertilizer is an indispensable and important nutrient source for the vigorous growth of clivia; clivia is a flower that likes fertilizer, and mature orchids must have sufficient fertility.
Fertilizing clivia should be determined according to the size, variety, growth and development, and season of the clivia. Applying too much or too little fertilizer is not conducive to the growth of clivia. Too much will cause root burn, and the leaves will wrinkle or become stunted; too little will cause a lack of nutrients, and the clivia will grow slowly, with the leaves obviously becoming narrower, soft, and not upright.
Types and uses of fertilizer: Fertilizer is divided into solid fertilizer and liquid fertilizer.
Solid fertilizer: Castor seeds, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, perilla seeds, and the like, after being fried, with a small amount of bone meal added, make a very good solid fertilizer. Solid fertilizer is usually used as base fertilizer (bottom fertilizer and waist fertilizer), applied twice a year (April to May in spring, September to October in autumn), but it must not touch the roots, to avoid causing root burn.
Liquid fertilizer: Sesame, peanuts, hemp seeds, sunflower seeds, freshwater fish (with internal organs removed), and the like, after full fermentation, make good liquid fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer is used as a supplementary fertilizer; its fertilizer effect is quick, but its fertility is short, and it can be applied once every half month. The application of liquid fertilizer should follow the principle of low concentration and small amounts applied multiple times, to prevent excessive fertilizer from burning the roots. In spring and autumn, clivia grows vigorously, and liquid fertilizer should be applied to provide sufficient nutrients. When applying liquid fertilizer, prevent it from dripping onto the orchid leaves or orchid heart, to avoid leaf rot or heart rot; after each fertilization, use a spray bottle to spray clean water to rinse the orchid leaves or orchid heart.
All of the above are organic fertilizers; inorganic fertilizers can also be used, and they take effect faster. Clivia growth emphasizes nutritional balance, requiring not only the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium we are familiar with, but also various trace elements. A serious deficiency of any one element will have adverse effects on the normal growth of clivia. This is also the reason people have long mostly used organic fertilizers.
4. Light: Light is an indispensable element for clivia photosynthesis. Sufficient light is needed; indoor orchid growing should be placed on a windowsill to ensure sufficient light. It is not tolerant of strong light and likes weak light (dappled light); summer light is strong, so shading treatment is needed to prevent burning the leaves. Clivia leaves have strong phototropism; regularly adjust the light-facing angle to make the plant shape neat; if conditions permit, the direction of leaf extension should be consistent with the north-south direction.
Clivia leaves should be kept clean; often wipe dust off the leaves with a soft damp cloth, which is beneficial to photosynthesis.
5. Temperature: The suitable temperature for clivia growth is 15°C to 25°C, neither cold nor hot.
In summer, when above 25°C, measures such as ventilation and shading should be taken to lower the temperature; above 30°C and with low humidity, the leaf luster will diminish; high temperature with much water will make the leaves grow too long, and high temperature may even cause high-temperature disease, leading to the whole plant rotting away.
Below 10°C, growth and development will be slow; below 5°C, growth will be inhibited; below 0°C, the leaves will freeze and be damaged or die.
6. Humidity: Clivia likes a warm and humid environment; low environmental humidity will affect the luster of the leaves; dry air, and wind and sun in the open field, will make the leaves lose their delicate luster, becoming rough and dull in color. People have found that clivia cultivated in flower cellars is delicate, succulent, and glossy, while clivia grown on windowsills cannot achieve this effect, and the reason lies precisely in this. The solution is to try to create a small environment similar to a flower cellar on the balcony.
To grow clivia well in summer, one should achieve the "six preventions" and "six don'ts."
1. Prevent direct sunlight, do not expose to the sun. In summer, clivia should be shaded from strong light all day. Using the oblique sunlight for a while in the early morning each day is enough to satisfy photosynthesis.
2. Prevent high temperatures, do not let it dry out. The suitable temperature for clivia in summer is 18°C to 25°C; placing it in an air-conditioned room is best, and a shaded, ventilated place on the balcony is also acceptable. When watering, it is best to use tap water that has been sunned for two or three days, watering once every day after 6 o'clock in the afternoon, and do not let the pot soil become too dry or too wet.
3. Prevent leggy growth, do not fertilize. Summer is the dormant period of clivia; stop fertilizing, water moderately, and controlling humidity is an effective measure. If too much fertilizer was applied to the pot soil or the fertilizer effect is relatively strong, the upper part of the soil in the flower pot should be poured out, mixed with 1/3 to 2/3 sand, mixed well, and put back into the pot, which not only reduces the fertilizer effect but also has a cooling effect.
4. Prevent dust pollution, do not water with dirty water. Clivia leaf surfaces should be kept clean; once a week, dip a fine gauze in clean water, wring it dry, and gently wipe once. Watering with dirty water will cause roots and leaves to rot and turn yellow.
5. Prevent soil compaction, do not use clay (loess) in the pot. Clivia is suitable for cultivation in loose, air-permeable, water-permeable, fertile humus soil with a pH value of about 7.0.
6. Prevent diseases, do not let it become infected. When changing soil or wiping leaves, the movements should be gentle, to prevent roots and leaves from being wounded and exuding sap, causing infection and decay.
16. Cyclamen
Cyclamen is native to the southeastern coast of the Mediterranean, from the coastal low-mountain forest zones of Israel and Jordan to Greece. It is now widely cultivated throughout the world. Cyclamen likes a cool, humid, and well-lit environment. The suitable growth temperature is 15 to 20°C; below 10°C, growth vigor weakens, flower color becomes dull, and it easily withers; when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant enters dormancy. In the hot summer regions of our country, cyclamen is then in a dormant or semi-dormant state; while in Kunming, Yunnan Province, where it is like spring all year round, the summer is cool and humid, so it does not go dormant and continues normal growth. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the plants are very easily damaged and rot to death. During the seedling stage it has relatively strong resistance to high temperatures. During the growth period, the relative humidity is preferably 70% to 75%. Cyclamen is neutral to day length, and temperature is the main environmental factor affecting flower bud differentiation. The suitable temperature for flower bud differentiation is 15 to 18°C. During the growth period, the required light intensity is 28,000 to 36,000 Lx; if higher than 45,000 Lx or less than 15,000 Lx, the photosynthesis intensity decreases significantly. However, it is also not tolerant of strong summer sunlight exposure and should be cultivated under a shade shed. It often self-pollinates, and can also cross-pollinate. It has relatively strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and is suitable for indoor landscaping in factory areas.
I. Key points for potted cyclamen propagation and cultivation: cultivation techniques
Mostly propagated by sowing. Sow in September and it blooms the following winter. The method of cutting the tuber can also be used for propagation, but it easily rots, so it is mostly not adopted. The key to cultivation is that the summer dormant period should maintain a cool environment that is not too wet. Tubers 2 to 3 years old have the strongest growth, so old tubers are often culled. Repot once a year.
II. Cyclamen planting, propagation, and cultivation care
1. Sowing: Cyclamen tubers cannot naturally produce small tubers, so sowing is generally used for propagation. However, cyclamen virus damage is serious, and seeds often have a relatively high virus infection rate; if the virus infection rate is >20%, then before sowing the seeds must be virus-eliminated. The method is: soak the seeds in 0.1% mercuric chloride for 1 to 2 minutes, then rinse clean with water; then soak in 10% sodium phosphate solution for 10 to 20 minutes, rinse clean; finally soak in a 35 to 40°C colloidal solution, treat for 48 hours, rinse clean with water, and then sow. Determine the sowing period according to the flower supply time. Generally sow 13 months before the flower supply time; even early-flowering varieties need 8 to 10 months. To supply flowers for Christmas, New Year's Day, and the Spring Festival, sowing is usually done from September to October.
Cyclamen germinates slowly and emerges unevenly, with a germination rate of about 85% to 95%. To promote early germination and uniform sprouting, seed soaking to promote germination can be done before sowing (virus-eliminated seeds sown immediately do not need germination promotion); soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours or in 30°C warm water for 2 to 3 hours, wash off the sticky substance on the seed surface, wrap in a damp cloth to promote germination, treat at 25°C for 1 to 2 days, and when the seeds slightly begin to sprout, take them out and sow. For the sowing soil, equal parts of vermiculite and fine furnace slag can be mixed; equal parts of peat soil and vermiculite mixed; or equal parts of loam, leaf mold, and river sand prepared. Sow by dibbling, at a spacing of 2 cm x 2 cm, covering with 0.5 cm of soil. Use the pot immersion method to keep the pot soil moist, at 18 to 20°C, germinating in 30 to 40 days. When the sown seedlings grow 1 true leaf, prick out at a spacing of 3.5 cm x 3.5 cm, using soil prepared with a ratio of leaf mold 5, loam 3, river sand 2. When planting, make the top of the small tuber level with the soil surface, keep moist, place in weak light during the recovery period, and after growth resumes, gradually increase light, strengthen ventilation, with a suitable temperature of 15 to 18°C, topdress appropriately, and be careful not to let the fertilizer liquid contaminate the leaves, to avoid causing rot. When the plantlets have 3 to 5 leaves, pot them.
2. Tuber division method: For excellent varieties of cyclamen that set fruit poorly, the tuber division method can be used for propagation. In late August, when the tuber is about to sprout, cut the tuber lengthwise from the top into several pieces; each piece must carry a bud eye; coat the cut with plant ash or charcoal powder, let it dry slightly, and then pot and plant. Careful maintenance and management are required. This method has a small propagation coefficient, the tubers easily rot, management is difficult, flowering is sparse, the plant shape is not attractive, and the tuber exposed above the soil surface is not round and neat, so it is seldom used.
In recent years, international research on the vegetative propagation of cyclamen has been carried out in many aspects. The successful methods include: 1. tuber tissue culture, cutting the tuber into pieces and culturing them aseptically to form regenerated plants; 2. taking leaf buds with part of the tuber tissue for cuttings; 3. in the original pot, cutting off the upper part of the tuber and then cutting it radially into sections so that regenerated shoots form, etc. The third method is described in detail below. The cyclamen tuber is formed by the abnormal thickening of the hypocotyl. After the upper part is cut off, adventitious buds can grow from the cut surface and then form regenerated plants. By dividing one tuber, many regenerated individuals can be obtained. The procedure is: select a robust, plump, and well-developed tuber, and divide it 1-2 months after flowering; the suitable time for division is May to June. First adjust the moisture of the potting soil, because when division is carried out under normal cultivation conditions, the wound will secrete a large amount of sap. This bleeding not only affects growth vigor, but especially hinders the formation of adventitious buds, and also easily leads to rot. Therefore, watering should be controlled to reduce soil moisture. When the leaf tips feel soft to the touch, this is the suitable time for division. First cut off the upper part of the tuber, about 1/3 of the tuber's thickness. Then make radial cuts (for tubers with a diameter of 4 cm or less) or checkerboard cuts (for tubers with a diameter of more than 4 cm), with the depth not injuring the root system. If checkerboard cutting is used, the incision spacing is 1 cm. A tuber with a diameter of 6 cm can be cut into 27 pieces.
Immediately after division, cover the pot well with plastic film and carry out curing treatment at 30°C until periderm forms at the wound, which takes about 12 days, then promote adventitious buds at 20°C. During this period (about 20-30 days), the key point of management is to maintain the soil moisture at the time of division. The pot can be weighed together at the time of division, and every 2-3 days the lost water is replenished according to weight. 70-80 days after division, each cut piece forms adventitious buds; lower the temperature to 15°C so that they gradually adapt to the environment. From the beginning of adventitious bud formation (about 35 days after division), gradually increase the amount of water given, and apply liquid fertilizer once a week. About 100 days after division, regenerated plants have basically formed and can be transplanted into pots. Usually they flower 11-14 months after division. This method is carried out in the original cultivation pot, is simple and easy to perform, and does not require complicated techniques or equipment; the time to form regenerated plants is short; the regenerated individuals are uniform in character; and the regeneration rate is high. It is a vegetative propagation method with great application prospects. It can be used to multiply clonal lines of superior varieties; in addition, it also has practical value in the production of first-generation hybrid (F1) seeds.
III. To meet the need for flowers at different times, the following methods are mainly used to control the flowering period:
1. Adjust the sowing date. By making use of the seedling-stage plants' relatively strong tolerance to high temperatures, place them in a cool and ventilated environment so that they do not go dormant in summer, thereby advancing the flowering period. Sowing can be done from December to early summer, and they will bloom in about 12 months. The sowing time can be determined according to the required flowering period.
2. Control environmental factors to delay or advance dormancy, or to break or prolong the dormancy of dormant tubers. For example, for flowering plants about to enter dormancy, apply additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, provide appropriate shading, and place them in a cool, ventilated place at 25°C; then they can continue to bloom until June to July.
3. Use certain volatile chemical agents to break or promote the dormancy of bulbs in order to control the flowering period. For example, injecting aqueous solutions such as ether or camphor into the buds or fumigating with them can break dormancy. For example, in a sealed space of 1000 cubic meters, place 0.5 cm of ether and treat for 24-48 hours; cyclamen tubers quickly break dormancy, resume growth, and bloom earlier. For another example, place a cloth ball soaked with ester solutions such as naphthaleneacetic acid ethyl ester or phenylcarbamic acid ethyl ester beside a cyclamen tuber about to sprout, which can prevent the tuber from sprouting for several weeks, thereby delaying the flowering period.
IV. Pest and disease control of cyclamen
1. Soft rot is caused by Bacterium
aroideae and occurs under high temperature and high humidity in summer. It damages leaf stalks and flower stalks, causing water-soaked softening; in dry weather the lesions dry up; in rainy weather they rot and give off a foul odor. The pathogen overwinters in the soil. Control methods: first, the potting soil for planting must be thoroughly sterilized; second, during high summer temperatures, control water, do not apply nitrogen fertilizer, do not let the plants be injured, maintain air circulation, and provide appropriate shading; third, promptly remove diseased leaves and burn them, and spray with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Anthracnose is caused by the pathogen Glomerella
rufomaculans. The lesions are brown, round, and sunken; later the lesions enlarge and bear black conidia. The spores disperse and infect via water. Control methods: remove infected leaves and leaf stalks and burn them; avoid wetting the leaves when watering; in the early stage of the disease, spray with a 500-600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim.
3. Nematode disease is caused by parasitism by the cyst nematode Heterodelaradicicola. Soil temperatures of 25-30°C and soil moisture of about 40% favor nematode damage, and they invade the roots to form root galls. Affected plants grow weakly, the lower leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant may even die. Control methods: soil sterilization; burn affected plants; soaking in hot water at 50°C for 10 minutes can kill nematodes.
4. Aphids cause leaves to curl, leaf stalks to bend, growth to be hindered, and flowers to fail to open. They can be controlled with a 1500 times dilution of dimethoate. Red spider mites are also seen causing damage; spray with a 1500 times dilution of trichlorfon.
17. Narcissus
In the cold months of winter, narcissus can unfurl verdant leaves and produce plain, elegant, and fragrant flowers in a dish of clear water. Placed on a table indoors, it brings people vitality and a feeling of spring.
According to An Introduction to Chinese Flowers: narcissus cultivation methods include soil culture, sand culture, water culture, and carved shaping. The cultivation requirements are not high; as long as the temperature is kept at about 15°C, there is sufficient sunlight, and you water frequently and change the water often, it can bloom after 25-30 days of growing. But several points should be noted:
1. The temperature must not exceed 25°C, otherwise it will stop growing and enter dormancy, causing the flower buds to turn yellow, shrivel, and dry up;
2. Sunlight must be sufficient, otherwise the leaves will grow into garlic leaves;
3. The water used must be clean, otherwise deterioration of the water will cause pollution and root rot.
Narcissus has a special growth characteristic: its flowering date can be decided by people themselves. If you want it to bloom during the Spring Festival, you can plant the bulb (narcissus head) in a pot about 20 days to 300 days before the Spring Festival. After being potted, it will begin to grow until it blooms. Several cultivation methods are introduced below:
Soil culture
For soil culture, the soil should be loose humus soil. Before planting, peel off the dry outer scales of the narcissus head and scrape off the old roots, then add humus soil to 3 cm below the pot rim. Hold the pot with both hands and shake it to make the humus soil compact, then seat the narcissus basal plate in the pot, continue adding soil for about 1 cm, and then water thoroughly. Then place the pot in a cool place. After 5 days, when roots have grown from the basal plate, place the pot in a sunny place for growing. When watering in soil culture, pay attention to watering only when dry and watering thoroughly when you do: do not water if the soil is not dry, and once you water, water until it leaks from the bottom of the pot. Watering should be done in the morning or evening, otherwise it will damage root growth.
Sand culture
For sand culture, it is best to use clean washed fine sand, and the pot should also be a breathable clay pot. Before planting, first put sand into the pot up to 3 cm below the pot rim, then seat the narcissus head with old stem scales and old roots removed into the pot filled with fine sand, and add about 1 cm more sand so that the lower stem of the narcissus head is buried about 1 cm in the sand. Then water thoroughly and place in a cool place. After 5 days, place it in a sunny place until it blooms. When growing narcissus heads in sand, water thoroughly every day; failure to water in time will cause water deficiency and affect flower and root growth. Watering should also be arranged in the morning or evening.
Water culture
Before water culture, also peel off the old stem scales and old roots cleanly, then place it in a narcissus growing bowl, add water to about 1 cm below the lower bulb of the narcissus head, and place in a cool place. After roots grow from the basal plate, place it in a sunny place until it blooms. For water-cultured narcissus, it is best to change the water every day. On the one hand, this prevents water deterioration and pollution from causing root rot; on the other hand, by changing the water every day, the water stays clean and the roots that grow are also white and beautiful.
Carved shaping of narcissus
In order to make the flowers and leaves grow in varied and graceful forms, the flower head needs to be carved. The specific procedure is: first peel off the dry outer scales of the bulb and scrape off the old roots, then carve. When carving, first observe the growth direction of the buds, and use the curved side as the carving surface. Then use a small pointed knife to gently make a horizontal line from left to right on the bulb 2 cm from the basal plate, then make one vertical line on each of the left and right sides, then peel off the scales within the range of the horizontal and vertical lines layer by layer. At the same time, dig out the scales between the buds until the leaves and pale yellow flower scapes are exposed; at this point the leaves can be curled. Next, shape the flower scape: use a small knife to scrape a line from top to bottom above the flower scape and below the flower bud, or use a needle to prick the flower scape several times from top to bottom. The growth of the flower scape will then become abnormal and likewise bend toward the wounded side. According to the requirements of different shapes, the degree and position of scraping also differ. After carving and shaping, the narcissus head should be promptly soaked in water with the wounded surface facing down to remove the mucus secreted from the wound, changing the water every day, and soaking for about 2-3 days. When the mucus has been cleaned away, take it out and cover the basal plate (root plate) with absorbent cotton. Then place the carved surface facing up, put it into a narcissus bowl, add water, and grow it in a cool place. Change the water once a day to keep the water clean. When the basal plate has grown about 1 cm, place the narcissus bowl in a sunny place for growing. Remember that during the growing process the temperature should not exceed 20°C; change the water frequently, once a day, spray water frequently, 1-2 times a day, and provide frequent sunlight. In this way, the flowers cultivated will be luxuriant, fragrant, and graceful in form.