How to Propagate Virginia Creeper? Methods and Precautions Explained
Propagating Virginia creeper is not difficult, and as long as you pay attention to cultivation, the survival rate can be greatly improved. Virginia creeper can be propagated by cuttings, layering and sowing. Cuttings are the most commonly used method, while seed propagation is also a method with a relatively high survival rate, and seedling management is also fairly convenient.
Virginia Creeper
I. Sowing method:
After harvesting, rub off the fruit skin and flesh from the seeds, wash and dry them, then store them in moist sand at low temperature through the winter. Keeping them warm and moist helps promote germination. In early spring of the following year, in the first or second ten days of March, they can be sown in the open ground, covered with plastic film, and seedlings will emerge in the first ten days of May. After 1-2 years of cultivation they can be lifted for outplanting.
II. Cutting method:
In early spring, cut 20-30 cm lengths of stem and vine, insert them into an open-ground seedbed, water them and keep them moist; they will quickly send out vines and survive. You can also use softwood cuttings with leaves in summer or autumn, shade them and water them for care; they will also quickly send out new shoots. Cuttings have a relatively high survival rate and are widely used.
III. Layering method:
A wave-style layering method can be used, carried out during the rainy season in overcast, damp, cloudless weather. The survival rate is high, and by autumn they can be separated and transplanted, then planted in their permanent position the following year.
A Brief Introduction to How to Plant Boston Ivy
How to Plant Boston Ivy, Boston Ivy Pictures
Boston ivy, also known as climbing ivy, digin and tuguteng, red grape vine, belongs to the order Rhamnales, family Vitaceae. It originates from the Korean Peninsula, Japan and the North China and Northeast China regions.
The appearance of Boston ivy always brings people a touch of coolness, as if seeing a whole wall covered in green Boston ivy means that on the other side is a comfortable, pleasant environment. So how should Boston ivy be planted, and what methods are there?
Introduction to the Types of Boston Ivy
Boston ivy originates from China and is widely distributed throughout the country. It is a beautiful landscaping plant, a deciduous large climbing vine in the genus Parthenocissus, family Vitaceae. It is mostly planted by courtyard walls, can be grown in pots, and can even be used for winemaking! There are many types; below, the editor will give you a rough explanation of the types of Boston ivy so that you can recognize and distinguish them.
Boston ivy: genus Parthenocissus, family Vitaceae. There are about 15 species in the world, widely scattered across North America and Asia. About 10 species of Boston ivy have been recorded in China, produced throughout the country, distributed from the southwest to the east.
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Introduction status: not introduced.
Native to China. It prefers shade and tolerates cold, has strong adaptability to soil, and grows extremely quickly, achieving a good beautifying effect in a short time.
The most common types of Boston ivy in China:
Parthenocissus heterophylla
Heterophyllous; the leaves on vegetative shoots are commonly mostly simple leaves, heart-shaped, and relatively small.
The leaf surface is commonly light green, occasionally pale white; its young leaves and autumn leaves are both purplish red. The flowering period of Parthenocissus heterophylla is generally June.
Parthenocissus laetevirens
Its main feature is that the leaves on flowering shoots are palmate compound leaves with 3-5 leaflets, mostly 5, obovate or elliptic, 6-14 cm long and 2-5 cm wide. Symmetrical on both sides, base not oblique, slightly pubescent on the veins on the back, lateral veins 7-10 pairs, raised on both sides, petiolules 0.5-1 cm long. The cyme panicle is spreading, opposite the leaves or terminal on lateral branches. Flowering period June-July, fruit ripening period September-October.
The Cutting Method for Boston Ivy
Boston ivy is generally planted using the cutting method. Take an adult Boston ivy plant and carry out cutting propagation in early summer, in May or June.
Dig a hole about 15 cm deep at the base of the wall, insert the cut Boston ivy branch, with a branch length of about 30-40 cm. After inserting, cover with soil and water once every two days; it will sprout in just over half a month.
The Sowing Method for Boston Ivy
For propagation by sowing, the seeds are naturally key. In September, when the Boston ivy fruit turns a ripe purple, it can be picked, and the skin and flesh removed cleanly. Store it in half-dry sand. Sowing can be carried out in March of the following year.
Boston Ivy Pictures
When you see an old wooden building with its outer wall covered in green Boston ivy, do you feel as if you are in retro continental Europe, full of forest style?
Having grown used to green Boston ivy, this branch of red Boston ivy also has a distinctive charm. Brilliant red Boston ivy creeps over the grey bricks, fully showing vicissitudes and antique simplicity.
Who says Boston ivy can only cover walls? It is also quite good as a potted plant! A small pot with lush green leaves, very flourishing.
How to Cultivate Boston Ivy
Do you want to have your own beautiful "queen of flowers"? Then hurry up and follow the editor to learn how to cultivate Boston ivy!
Temperature, light:
Although Boston ivy has strong adaptability and resists cold and drought, you still need to pay attention to temperature control when growing it. Boston ivy is a warmth-loving flower, so a suitable temperature should be maintained during the day; a slightly lower temperature at night will not affect the normal growth of Boston ivy. A place that is dry or moist, with good air circulation and good shelter from wind, is more conducive to the growth of Boston ivy.
Soil moisture:
Moist soil is more suitable for the vigorous growth of Boston ivy, so ensuring the moisture of the soil and air is very important, and controlling it to the optimal level works best. In addition, the soil should remain fertile, loose and well-drained.
Watering and fertilizing:
Water Boston ivy only when dry, and water thoroughly when you do; in summer, once each morning and evening; in spring and autumn, water in the afternoon; in winter the water requirement is low, so watering once every two weeks is enough.
Propagation and cultivation:
Boston ivy has the characteristic of strong vitality; simply cultivate it by inserting a cut branch about 15 cm long into a flower pot, first placing it in a spot with light at a temperature of about 10-20°C to grow, and once it has taken root and sprouted, move it to a large vat for growing.
How the Environment Affects Boston Ivy
Boston ivy prefers shady, damp conditions, tolerates cold and drought, and has strong adaptability. It can climb and grow by attaching to walls and other supports with its suckers. Light, temperature and water can all have a direct effect on Boston ivy.
Gardeners should now have a general understanding of how to grow Boston ivy, so let's take practical action and cultivate Boston ivy further.
How to Plant Potted Boston Ivy
Boston ivy grows vigorously, has strong adaptability, resists cold and drought, and is not very demanding about soil. People living on the top floor are suitable for growing it in pots, and it is also fairly convenient to manage. This article briefly introduces the potting method for Boston ivy!
Can it be grown in a pot?
Potted Boston ivy needs a relatively large flower pot or a large vat, etc., so that in later growth it can get sufficient nutrients and grow vigorously upward. Gardeners can give it a try.
Materials to prepare for potting
A flower pot or large vat; it must be attractive. The greatest role of the flower pot is to decorate the room. Try to choose a prettier blue-and-white porcelain flower pot or large vat.
Bury organic fertilizer in the bottom of the pot; organic fertilizer is the basic requirement for its vigorous growth.
A Boston ivy seedling with relatively good growth
The Potting Method for Boston Ivy
First, in late spring and early summer, insert leafy Boston ivy stems into sandy soil, keep the sandy soil moist, and they will quickly take root and grow.
Cut branches from a mature plant and keep the buds on the branches; it is easy for them to grow new shoots. The following year, cut them off from the parent plant and plant them separately.
When first potting, bury organic fertilizer in the bottom of the pot as a base fertilizer, and apply another topdressing after the leaves fall in late autumn.
Put a few colored pebbles in the bottle to increase the decorative effect.
After the above four steps, the potting is complete; what remains is care. Boston ivy tolerates drought and cold; prevent water from accumulating in the pot, otherwise it will get sick.
Precautions
The indoor temperature should be suitable.
The nutrient solution should be carefully selected; do not just pick one casually to avoid trouble. Try to choose one that contains all the mineral elements. (Of course, this is not something you can decide!)
Prevent water accumulation in the pot and prevent pests and diseases.
The nutrient solution should be changed frequently. During care, try not to change the brand of nutrient solution; the plant has already adapted to one environment, so do not change it casually.
How to Distinguish Boston Ivy from Ivy
Boston ivy and ivy - is there any difference when viewed from a distance? Both are vines, and their leaves are so similar that it is truly hard to tell them apart. But if you study them carefully, distinguishing the two is actually quite simple. Let's take a look together!
Morphological Differences Between Ivy and Boston Ivy
This is the most intuitive way to distinguish them
Ivy
Ivy has woody stems; the stems can reach 3-5 m long and are much branched; the stems have aerial roots; the slender tender branches are covered with soft hairs and appear rusty-brown scale-like; the leaves are leathery and alternate; the umbel is solitary or 2-7 terminal; yellow-white or green-white; the fruit is spherical, berry-like, yellow or red; flowering period May-August, fruiting period September-November.
Boston Ivy
The morphology of Boston ivy is similar to that of wild grape vines; the vine stems can reach 18 m long; the cyme is often borne on short branches between two leaves, clustered but inconspicuous, yellow-green or the berry purple-black; mostly bisexual, monoecious; the berry is small and spherical, blue-black when ripe, covered with white bloom; flowering period June, fruiting period September-October. Its most obvious feature is that Boston ivy has relatively strong climbing ability.
Differences in Habits Between Ivy and Boston Ivy
You can also tell which is which from their growing environments.
Ivy
Ivy has strong adaptability to the environment, prefers relatively cool climates, has relatively strong cold tolerance, and is not strict about light; it can grow anywhere, and usually grows in shady, damp environments.
Boston Ivy
Boston ivy has strong adaptability and prefers shady, damp environments, but is not afraid of strong light; it tolerates cold, drought and poor soil; south of the warm temperate zone it can also remain semi-evergreen or evergreen in winter; it tolerates pruning but fears water accumulation. It mostly grows in places with fertile soil and will grow attached to buildings.
Distribution Differences Between Ivy and Boston Ivy
There are differences in the distribution of Boston ivy and ivy; when you see them, check the location.
Ivy
Ivy originates from Europe, Asia and North Africa, and is distributed in China in Central China, East China, Southwest China, Gansu and Shaanxi.
Boston Ivy
Boston ivy originates from eastern Asia, the Himalayan region and North America, and is distributed in China in Henan, Liaoning, Hebei, Shanxi, Shandong, Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hunan, Hubei, Guangxi, Guangdong, Sichuan, Guizhou, Yunnan and Fujian.
Differences in Family and Genus Between Ivy and Boston Ivy
Ivy
Ivy is an evergreen woody climbing plant in the plant kingdom, phylum Angiospermae, class Dicotyledoneae, subclass Rosidae, order Apiales, family Araliaceae, tribe Schefflereae, genus Hedera.
Boston Ivy
Boston ivy is a perennial large deciduous woody climbing plant in the plant kingdom, phylum Angiospermae, class Dicotyledoneae, subclass Rosidae, order Vitales, family Vitaceae, genus Parthenocissus.
From the difference in family and genus you can also see one point: ivy is an evergreen plant, while Boston ivy is deciduous.
A Complete Guide to Disease Control in Boston Ivy
The diseases of Boston ivy include powdery mildew and leaf spot. It has relatively strong resistance and pests and diseases occur infrequently, though they do occasionally appear. Below, the editor will explain its pests and diseases and their control in detail to help you take better care of Boston ivy.
Powdery mildew:
It can occur starting from the seedling stage. It basically harms the entire Boston ivy plant. Small yellow spots first appear, then develop into oval lesions, with a white powdery mold layer on the outside, mostly on the underside. The mold spots are at first separate and scattered, then merge, and can cover the entire leaf, seriously affecting photosynthesis, interfering with metabolism, and causing premature aging.
[Occurrence pattern]
The pathogen cannot oversummer in plain areas; after autumn it spreads through airflow to wheat seedlings in the plains and causes disease. There are mainly two conditions for an epidemic: first, large-scale planting of susceptible varieties; second, suitable environmental conditions. Generally, when fertilizer is applied excessively, the wheat plants grow excessively, the plants weaken, field humidity is high, and the disease becomes relatively severe. The disease generally shows an infection center in March to April, then as the temperature gradually rises, the diseased plant rate increases rapidly, and under certain conditions an epidemic begins.
[Control methods]
Agricultural measures: first, plant disease-resistant varieties; second, cultivate reasonably and fertilize appropriately.
Chemical control: first, treat seeds with chemicals, in the same way as wheat loose smut; second, control in spring and autumn.
Leaf spot disease:
① Brown spot disease, infecting large areas; the lesions on the leaves are oval, then the lesions enlarge and concentric rings appear. The lesions on the stems and petioles are dark brown and elongated.
② Black spot disease. Small black round spots appear on the leaves, then expand into irregular patches, with slightly raised edges, and small black dots scattered on both sides.
③ Blight spot disease. There are oval, elongated light reddish-brown lesions on the leaves, which then expand into irregular patches, with black dots produced on the lesions.
[Occurrence pattern]:
The leaf spot pathogens overwinter with the diseased tissue, and in the next year's disease period infect the host with the climate. The three brown spot diseases occur in all four seasons. Poor ventilation or excessive humidity, etc., all favor the disease.
[Control methods]:
If in a greenhouse, soil replacement can be carried out for control.
Boston ivy is not suitable for spray watering; do not treat it by spray watering.
Begin spraying chemicals at the initial stage of disease to prevent spread. Pay attention to alternating the chemicals to avoid the pathogen developing resistance.
A Detailed Explanation of the Ornamental and Medicinal Value of Boston Ivy
Boston ivy is also known as "evergreen ivy", "digin" and "Bashan tiger". Besides representing tenacious vitality and firm, upward will, it also has very high medicinal value and full ornamental value. The editor will now take you into the world of Boston ivy's value!
The ornamental value of Boston ivy:
Its surface has lenticels. When summer comes, the branches and leaves are lush, often attaching to walls or surrounding rocks. It is suitable for cultivation on courtyard walls and at entrances, bridgeheads and other places that help beautify the house and surrounding environment. It can both cool the temperature and reduce noise, keeping the surroundings quiet.
Boston ivy has dense stems and leaves; covering a house, it can block sunlight and also lower the indoor temperature. As a barrier, it can reduce noise and absorb dust. It can also absorb moisture from the wall, keeping the house dry; in dry seasons, it can also increase humidity.
The main function of Boston ivy is vertical greening. It is the most commonly used and most ideal of climbing plants. It mainly relies on its suckers to continually climb upward along the wall. Over time, it covers the outer wall of a building, and with the changes of the four seasons, it makes the building's colors rich in variation.
The medicinal value of Boston ivy
The roots and stems of Boston ivy can be used as medicine, with the effects of promoting blood circulation and removing blood stasis, and disinfecting and reducing swelling.
Collection and processing: stems, collected before leaf fall; roots, can be collected year-round.
Nature and flavor: warm, dry and astringent; the whole plant is toxic.
Functions and indications: invigorates blood and resolves stasis, unblocks the vessels and removes toxins; beneficial for rheumatic joint pain; used externally for bruises and injuries.
Feng shui significance
All across the country, Boston ivy symbolizes vigorous upward vitality and is often planted in home courtyards and residences, symbolizing the family's vigorous rise and the bright future of the children. You will stride bravely toward the goals you pursue.
After the editor's explanation, do you already have a preliminary understanding? We also have articles on the effects and uses of Boston ivy to take you deeper, so come along with us!
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
Some families live in single-story houses and have a small courtyard. Usually the yard is mild and sunny, with dew and rain, and the area is fairly large, much more favorable for growing flowers than a balcony in a multi-story building. But to green and beautify the courtyard well and make it garden-like, you also need to master some landscaping design and flower-growing knowledge. You need rational planning, rational selection of flowers and trees, and attention to vertical greening, so that the courtyard can be richer in garden charm.I.Principles for arranging courtyard flowers and trees
Garden plants include many types such as woody, vine and aquatic plants, and their mutual arrangement should follow the principles below.
1. It must meet the functional requirements of the courtyard.
2. Garden plant landscaping must be consistent with the overall layout of the garden green space and coordinate with the environment.
In formal courtyards, opposite planting and row planting are often used; in natural-style courtyard green spaces, the natural postures of plants are often used for natural-style landscaping. For example, near gates, main roads, formal plazas and large buildings, formal plant landscaping is often used; at the edges of lawns and ponds in natural landscape gardens, natural-style landscaping is often used. On the plane, attention should be paid to density and outline lines; vertically, attention should be paid to the crown outline; in groves, attention should be paid to sight lines. In short, there should be an overall effect of size, distance and height levels in the plant landscape. Beautiful garden plant landscapes complement one another. Garden artistic composition should have a gradual transition among trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants, while also forming contrasts among them to aid appreciation.
3. According to the different ecological environment conditions of garden plants, choose appropriate plant species according to local conditions.
For courtyard greening, choose plants that are easy to keep alive, tolerant of pruning, resistant to smoke and dust, with tall trunks, dense branches and leaves, and fast growth. For mountain greening, choose drought-tolerant plants that help set off the mountain scenery; for waterside greening, choose moisture-tolerant plants that coordinate with the water scenery.
4. There must be reasonable density.
The density of plants directly affects the greening landscape and the performance of green space functions. In tree landscaping design, the mature crown size should be used as the best basis for spacing, but attention should also be paid to combining short-term and long-term effects. Use fast-growing trees with slow-growing trees, evergreen trees with deciduous trees, trees with shrubs, and foliage trees with flowering trees in mutual combination to create multi-layered greening while satisfying the ecological conditions of the plants.
5. Comprehensively consider the seasonal changes of garden plants and the unified contrast of color, fragrance and form.
Plant landscaping should comprehensively consider differences in time, environment, plant species and their ecological conditions, so that rich plant colors follow
the changes of the seasons and appear in alternation, so that each sub-area of the garden green space highlights the plant landscape of one season. In areas where visitors gather, there should be scenery to enjoy in all four seasons. The color, fragrance, individual form, leaves and flowers of plant landscape combinations are also varied, but there should be a clear primary and secondary order. Starting from function, highlight one aspect to avoid a cluttered feeling.
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
II.Specific arrangement of courtyard flowers and trees
Generally speaking, the area of a courtyard is rather small, and every local greening area affects the overall courtyard, so every local greening area in the courtyard must be treated carefully. The following discusses separately the courtyard gate, garden wall, garden path, water feature, stacked stone, lawn, flower bed, flower border, flower terrace, tree group landscaping, vertical greening, balcony, cool terrace greening, roof garden and other aspects.
1. Greening of the garden gate
Every courtyard has entrances and exits of different sizes, namely garden gates. The garden gate plays an important role in the combination, separation, penetration and landscaping of courtyard space. Since the garden gate is the place for entering and exiting and its position is exposed, the greening of the gate is the most eye-catching. Because owners have different living habits and personalities, the greening arrangement forms of the gate also differ. Generally speaking, outgoing owners are used to conspicuous arrangements, allowing outside passersby to view the inner landscape of the courtyard; introverted owners are used to concealed arrangements, not wishing outside passersby to see the inner scene at a glance. While ensuring convenient passage, the greening of the garden gate should pay attention to the difference between inside and outside scenery, using methods of closing or opening to increase the depth of scenic layers and expand space; attention should also be paid to the creation of borrowed scenery and framed scenery.
Garden gate greening is often combined with hedges and green walls, and there are many forms:
First, directly use low-branching Chinese juniper, arborvitae, coral tree and the like as the main body, with wood or steel used internally as a frame, then tie the trunks and branches of evergreen trees to the frame and carry out shaping and pruning to create a lively green gate scene, which has an evergreen effect throughout the four seasons and is full of vitality.
Second, combine with the garden gate building, combining living flower and tree materials with building materials to create a landscape, such as planting green plants on hollow gate pillars filled with soil, or letting them hang down, or creating flower-viewing and foliage-viewing gate scenes on the upper three sides. Pay attention to the height of the gate pillars; it is best that water can reach the plant roots by capillary action, otherwise pay attention to watering or directly choose drought-tolerant plant varieties; potted plants can also be placed directly on top of the gate pillars or on both sides of the gate; a flower terrace can also be set up at the base of the gate pillars and flowers and trees planted in the terrace.
Third, the vertical greening form, using steel, bamboo, wood or cement to make a gate frame, with climbing plants planted on both sides. For a south-facing gate front, herbaceous flowers and flowering shrubs can be arranged in a balanced way; a north-facing gate front is relatively cold and shady with poor ventilation, so trees should be planted for greening to facilitate ventilation and summer shade; for side gates, side doors, or east-facing and west-facing garden gates at the back door, deciduous trees can be planted in the front area or a vertical greening screen can be established.
In short, gate greening should be concise, simple and natural. Garden gate greening should have an obvious sense of season, the color contrast between flowers and the gate should be strong, and the selected flowers and trees should have a long flowering period and small flower shape.
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
2、Greening of the garden wall
In order to create a quiet, sanitary and beautiful living space, or because of security needs, various styles of garden walls are set up on the periphery, thereby creating a courtyard landscape rich in layers and revealing the large within the small. They can form scenery independently and can also combine with other elements to create various landscapes. There are many forms of garden walls, such as brick walls, stone walls, tree walls, flower walls and retaining walls, among which tree walls and flower walls are the best.
A. Tree walls
Using lively woody plants such as coral tree, privet and boxwood to green the periphery of a courtyard or around buildings and form the effect of a wall is called a tree wall. Like brick, stone and cement walls, tree walls have the effects of separating space, preventing dust, sound insulation, fire prevention, wind prevention, cold prevention and blocking sight lines, and they are convenient to manage, durable, can create lively shapes, and have a unique mountain forest landscape effect.
According to the different functional nature of the courtyard, various different tree species can be selected. For wind prevention, fire prevention, dust prevention and the like, taller or natural opaque tree wall forms can be used; to view the landscape inside the courtyard, shorter tree walls, namely hedges, or semi-transparent tree walls can be used; to strengthen defense and other special functions, trees with thorns such as citron, holly, climbing rose, Caesalpinia decapetala and banksia rose can be used as green walls. Tree species used as tree walls should have the characteristics of robust growth, easy management and strong resistance to pests and diseases, such as citron, trident maple and privet; in shady places, more shade-tolerant species such as photinia, coral tree and gardenia can be chosen; at windward openings, species with deep roots and strong wind and cold resistance such as cypress and hawthorn should be chosen; for shaped tree walls, species tolerant of pruning should be chosen, such as Chinese juniper, scarlet firethorn, coral tree, firethorn, privet, water wax, camellia, photinia and Osmanthus.
B. Flower walls
Many courtyard walls are made into various flower walls with building materials such as cement, brick and stone, and iron fences. Although flower walls have various flower lattices, flower windows and various different shapes, they are after all still lifeless structures and cannot play a role in purifying the air and improving the environment. To make up for these shortcomings, it is best to use climbing plants such as wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, ivy and banksia rose beside the wall for greening, so that the wall surface is draped in a green coat and becomes much more lively. Beautiful flowers and trees climbing over the top of the wall also beautify the environment outside the garden.
If it is a rough stucco cement wall surface, climbing plants with suckers such as Boston ivy, Virginia creeper, ivy, hibiscus, creeping fig, Chinese trumpet creeper and star jasmine can be planted in the soil at the base of the wall, letting them climb on the wall to become a natural wall cover, which not only beautifies the wall surface but also prevents wind and rain erosion and sunlight exposure. On a smooth wall surface, if green patterns are to be created, bamboo, wooden strips or wire flower trellises can be installed on the wall surface, and then climbing plants such as grapevines can be introduced to climb up, not only forming green pattern designs and a green wall cover, but also rich in seasonal changes. For sunny wall surfaces, Boston ivy, Chinese trumpet creeper and the like can be chosen; for shaded wall surfaces, ivy, creeping fig and Euonymus fortunei can be chosen. If the wall surface is tall, Boston ivy, Virginia creeper and green dragon vine can be chosen; if the wall surface is short, Euonymus fortunei, creeping fig, ivy, star jasmine and Chinese trumpet creeper can be chosen.
C. Retaining walls
In order to prevent erosion by rainwater, at soil slopes with relatively large height differences, retaining walls can be appropriately set up with materials such as cement, brick and stone. On the upper soil slope, Boston ivy, winter jasmine and jasmine can be planted to cover the topsoil and rock; below the retaining wall (protected soil slope), plants with well-developed root systems and lush branches and leaves such as creeping fig, star jasmine and honeysuckle can be planted, using the forms of hanging down and climbing up for greening; they can also be divided into different height levels to create a half-face three-dimensional flower terrace form, and on each level of flower terrace, similar flowering shrubs can be arranged to express the characteristics of the group. Whether it is a flower wall or a retaining wall, when using climbing plants for greening, plant the climbing plants 15 cm to 100 cm from the wall base, with each plant about 1.5 m apart. The soil depth should be about 50 cm. When planting, make the tips extend toward the wall surface to facilitate the growth of the climbing plants and routine management.
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
3、Passages and garden paths
For convenience of walking, courtyards all have roads of different width grades, connecting the front and back doors and the various rooms in the courtyard. Garden paths should be part of the courtyard landscape. Through plane arrangement, and through height undulation, materials, color and greening arrangement, the artistic level of the courtyard is expressed, so garden paths not only have a traffic function but also the role of walking and enjoying scenery. The main road from the room door to the main entrance is called a passage, the walking paths in the courtyard are called garden paths, and there are also steps, ramps or platforms for going up and down slopes.
A. Passages
A passage is both a street landscape and a bridge connecting the street and the house door. A greened passage must ensure convenient walking and also give pedestrians a comfortable feeling. At present, because the building area is relatively small, the passages are also relatively narrow. To facilitate drainage, the passage must be higher than the road or be a slope with a very small gradient.
There are many materials for landscaping passage surfaces, such as natural stone, cement boards, red bricks and ceramic tiles. A north-facing passage has poor light, so shade-loving low flowers and trees can be planted beside it to give the poorly lit passage a bright feeling; a south-facing passage has bright light, and to make the yard appear full of vitality, various sun-loving flowers and trees and ribbon-like flower borders can be planted on both sides or one side of the passage. Choose red and yellow flowers to give people a feeling of warmth, enthusiasm and welcome.
B. Garden paths
The small paths in a courtyard are highly practical, and after greening they are also ornamental and can invite people to take a walk. There are many paving materials, such as grass, stone, slate, tiles, cement and natural stone. The paving of the path surface should coordinate with the courtyard environment. The path surface and the greening on both sides can be arranged in the form of lawn, flower border and tree cluster. For example, for stepping-stone paving on a lawn, the stepping stones can be 40 cm x 50 cm x 15 cm. They are generally arranged at 60 cm intervals, with a gap of 10-20 cm left between each stepping stone for grass to grow naturally.
Garden plant landscaping is the reasonable arrangement and creation of various beautiful landscapes according to the ecological habits of garden plants and the requirements of garden artistic layout, so as to give full play to garden functions and ornamental characteristics. It is an important part of garden planning and design. First is the arrangement among various plants, such as species selection, tree cluster combination, plane and elevation composition, color, seasonal appearance and artistic conception creation; and also the mutual arrangement between garden plants and other elements in the garden such as rockery, water bodies, buildings and garden paths. It relates to the performance of urban garden green space functions and the artistic level of the entire city appearance. Its types can be roughly divided into natural style and formal style. Natural-style arrangement mainly imitates nature and emphasizes change, with a lively, pleasant and elegant natural mood, such as solitary planting, clump planting and group planting of trees. Formal-style arrangement mostly uses a certain axis as symmetry or plants in rows, such as opposite planting and row planting, giving a strong, majestic and solemn feeling.
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
4、Water features
Aquatic plants use water as their habitat, unfolding leaves, blooming and bearing fruit in the water, creating waterscape. In garden ponds, aquatic plants are often arranged to beautify the water body, purify water quality and reduce water evaporation. For example, water onion, water hyacinth, field thistle, aquatic mint, reed and Alisma orientale can absorb organic compounds in water and reduce biochemical oxygen demand; they can also absorb phenol, pyridine and aniline, kill Escherichia coli and the like, remove pollution, purify water sources and improve water quality. Many aquatic plants such as Salvinia natans, water lettuce, Azolla, lotus, arrowhead, water caltrop and Alisma orientale can be used for human food or as livestock feed. Therefore, arranging aquatic plants on a large scale in garden water bodies can also achieve certain economic benefits. Because aquatic plants grow quickly and have strong adaptability, they can also save manpower and material resources in cultivation and management. To do a good job in aquatic plant landscaping design, one should master the ecological growth characteristics of aquatic plants in water and select according to landscape needs. Floating-leaf aquatic plants such as lotus, water lily and Iris ensata have rhizomes attached in the mud of the pond, while the leaves float on the water surface. Therefore, design should refer to the proportion of the water body's surface size.
To ensure that the water surface plant landscape is alternately sparse and dense and does not affect the viewing of reflections of other scenery on the water body's shore, it is not appropriate to green the entire pond or design a full ring around the water body. Generally, it is sufficient to ensure that one-third to one-half of the water surface is greened. For this reason, planting platforms, ponds and vats must be set up in the water body. The height of the planting pond should be lower than the water surface, and its depth depends on the plant species. For example, lotus leaf stalks grow relatively tall, so the planting pond can be designed with a depth of 60-120 cm below the water surface; water lily leaf stalks are shorter, so the planting pond can be 30-60 cm below the water surface; Iris ensata leaf stalks are even shorter, so the planting pond can be 5-15 cm below the water surface. If planting vats or basins are used, they can be moved flexibly in the water to create certain water surface plant patterns.
Because Azolla, duckweed, Salvinia natans and water hyacinth have the characteristics of rapid reproduction and entire plants floating on the water surface, the landscaping of such aquatic plants is not affected by water depth. According to landscape needs, floating rings of various shapes can be made on the water surface, and the plants enclosed within them create water surface landscapes, embellish the water surface, change the shape and size of the water body, and make the water body winding and orderly. In addition, submerged plants such as waterweeds have roots growing in the mud of the pond, and their stems and leaves can all grow submerged in water. Placing such plants in a small clear-bottomed pond, embellishing with a few vats or pots and raising a few ornamental red fish makes it even more lively and full of charm. Such a waterscape with both aquatic animals and plants is refreshing and delightful. Using marsh herbaceous plants such as reed, water chestnut, arrowhead, iris and water onion can create low vegetation landscapes at the water's edge.
In short, in the water, floating-leaf aquatic plants can be used with alternating density, interruption, advance and retreat, and rhythm to create a continuous composition rich in seasonal changes. On the water surface, floating aquatic plants can be used, concentrated in patches, to create green islands on the water. Moisture-tolerant trees such as bald cypress, pond cypress, willow, dawn redwood, Manchurian ash, mulberry, gardenia and tamarisk can also be used in water bodies or on the banks to create enclosed spaces, enriching the sense of layering and depth of the water surface, adding more points of interest for visitors' boating and other water activities, and creating shade conditions.
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
5、Lawn
A. Lawn
A lawn is a green space formed by uniformly and densely planting a single perennial herbaceous grass species, growing in continuous patches.
According to calculations, the leaf area of grass is more than 10 times larger than the ground area it occupies. Therefore, lawns can prevent dust from rising again and reduce bacterial harm. Due to transpiration from leaf surfaces, relative humidity above the lawn can be increased by 10-20%, solar heat radiation is reduced, summer temperatures can be lowered by 1-3 degrees C, and winter temperatures are about 0.8-4 degrees C higher, so lawns have the effect of being warm in winter and cool in summer. Lawn covering the ground can prevent soil and water erosion, maintain the green landscape of gentle slopes, and in winter can prevent ground temperature decline or muddy surfaces. Green lawns can also absorb ultraviolet rays in strong light that are harmful to eyesight, protecting people's visual health. Some grass species are very sensitive to toxic gases, such as purple alfalfa and clover being sensitive to sulfur dioxide, moneywort being sensitive to hydrogen fluoride, and marigold being sensitive to chlorine gas, so they can be used to monitor environmental pollution. In particular, lawns in modern urban garden green spaces can connect various scenic areas and set off tree clusters, buildings and water surfaces, making the green space broader and suitable for visitors to rest and enjoy scenery; it makes visitors broad-minded, comfortable, relieves fatigue, lifts spirits and promotes physical and mental health.
They set off rockeries, buildings and flowers and trees, thereby forming beautiful and spacious courtyard landscapes.
To ensure people's park activities, the slope of formal lawns can be designed at 5%; the slope of natural lawns can be designed at 5-15%, and generally the design slope is 5-10% to ensure drainage. To avoid soil and water loss, the maximum slope must not exceed the natural angle of repose of the soil (about 30%).
B. Lawn laying and management
There are many grass species suitable for lawn laying, and their types and growth characteristics are shown in Table 4.5.1.
Species name Family Characteristics Application Distribution
Zoysia grass Grass family Shade-loving, drought-tolerant, trample-tolerant, low-growing, no mowing needed Ornamental, resting All over the country
Velvet grass Grass family Sun-loving, asexual reproduction, not cold-tolerant, trample-tolerant, low-growing, no mowing needed Ornamental, tennis courts Yangtze River basin, South China region
Bermuda grass Grass family Sun-loving, trample-tolerant, drought-tolerant, barren-tolerant, salt-alkali-tolerant Sports fields, recreation grounds All over the country
Centipede grass Grass family Shade-loving, moisture-tolerant Beside ponds, under trees South of the Yangtze River
Buffalo grass Grass family Semi-shade-loving, drought-tolerant, trample-tolerant Recreation grounds, under trees All over the north
Sheep fescue Grass family Drought-tolerant, sandy soil, barren soil Ornamental Northwest
Red fescue Grass family Shade-tolerant and cold-tolerant, needs mowing, cold-tolerant, drought-tolerant, shade-tolerant Ornamental, resting All over the southwest, Northeast
Bent grass Grass family Shade-tolerant, moisture-tolerant, disease and pest resistant, barren-tolerant, prefers acidic soil Ornamental under trees Shanxi
Redtop Grass family Cold-tolerant, prefers moisture, not shade-tolerant Beside ponds Central and southwest China, Yangtze River basin
Kentucky bluegrass Grass family Trample-tolerant, shade and moisture tolerant Under trees Nationwide
Fescue Grass family Trample-tolerant, shade and moisture tolerant Under trees North
How to arrange flowers and plants in a home courtyard
6、Flower ponds, flower beds, flower borders, flower terraces, etc.
In urban greening, various herbaceous flowers are often used to create all kinds of flower ponds, flower beds, flower borders, flower terraces and flower boxes. They are living decorative patterns of flower groups. They are mostly arranged in parks, intersections, road plazas, in front of major buildings, and in places where scenic sight lines are concentrated such as boulevards and riverside green spaces, playing a decorative and beautifying role. They are of great significance for enlivening the environmental atmosphere and inspiring people's thoughts and feelings.
A) Flower ponds
A plot composed of turf, flowers and the like with a certain patterned picture is called a flower pond. Because the internal composition differs, it can be divided into lawn flower ponds, flower plant flower ponds, comprehensive flower ponds and so on.
a. Lawn flower pond
A neatly and evenly trimmed piece of grass, with edges slightly arranged or arranged in rows of bottle decorations, statues, decorative flower railings and the like is called a lawn flower pond. It is suitable for arrangement in front of buildings and building platforms to form an open foreground, with the characteristics of simple arrangement and plain, elegant color.
b. Flower plant flower pond
A flower pond in which both grass and flowers are planted, and they can be used to form various patterns or animal shapes, is called a flower plant flower pond. The carpet plants in the pond must be pruned frequently to maintain a height of 4-8 cm, forming a dense covering layer. It is suitable for arrangement in street gardens, small pleasure grounds and on both sides of roads.
c. Comprehensive flower pond
A flower pond that has both carpet patterns and, in the central part, single-color low-growing annual or biennial flowers is called a comprehensive flower pond. For example, planting brightly colored stock or phlox in the center of the carpet pattern of the flower pond can fully display their characteristics when in full bloom. Appropriately embellishing the center with flowers, trees or flower clusters is also very interesting.
B) Flower beds
A flower pond whose external plane outline has a certain geometric shape, planted with various low ornamental plants and arranged into various patterns, is called a flower bed. Generally the central part is higher and gradually lowers around, with an inclined surface of 5-10 degrees, for drainage, and the edge is made into a geometric low border with brick, cement, bottles, porcelain columns and the like. According to different design forms, it can be divided into independent flower beds, ribbon flower beds and flower bed groups; according to different planting methods, it can also be divided into flower cluster flower beds and pattern flower beds.
a. Independent flower bed
A flower bed with ornamental plants planted inside and a certain geometric shape in the external plane, also serving as the main body of a local composition, is called an independent flower bed. The ratio of the long axis to the short axis is generally preferably less than 2.5. The planting materials are mainly annual or biennial or perennial flower plants and carpet plants, mostly arranged in parks, small pleasure grounds, boulevards, the center of plazas and intersections, and their shapes are varied. Because the area is relatively small, visitors are not allowed to enter.
b. Ribbon flower bed
A flower bed whose plane length is more than 3 times its width is called a ribbon flower bed. Longer ribbon flower beds can be divided into several sections, and in addition to herbaceous flowers, woody plants can also be added, forming a continuous composition of several similar independent flower beds. In urban garden green spaces, they are often used as the main scenery, mostly arranged on both sides of streets and in the center of park main roads, and can also be used as accompanying scenery arranged at building walls, plazas or lawn edges.
A long ribbon flower bed with tree walls, enclosing walls or buildings as the background is also called a border-planted flower bed.
c. Flower bed group
A group of many flower beds forming an indivisible overall composition is called a flower bed group. In the central part of the flower bed group, ponds, fountains, monuments and statues can be set up. They are often used in plazas in front of large buildings or in the center of large formal gardens, and visitors can enter to tour.
A rhythmic, indivisible overall composition formed by independent flower beds and ribbon flower beds arranged in rows is called a continuous flower bed group. There are plane and inclined surface forms. They are often arranged in the center of main road steps, on the central axis of long plazas, or use ponds, fountains and statues to emphasize the starting point, climax and ending of the continuous landscape.
An indivisible overall composition formed by combining several flower bed groups is called a flower bed complex group. Fountains, statues, ponds, colored lights, three-dimensional flower beds and flower terraces are often set up at its compositional center. They are often arranged in large formal gardens or on large building plazas.
A rhythmic, indivisible overall composition formed by many flower bed groups and continuous flower bed groups arranged in rows and developing along a straight line is called a continuous flower bed woven group.
A flower bed group set in a low recess is also called a sunken flower bed. It is most favorable for viewers to appreciate from a high position.
d. Flower cluster flower bed
Also called a blooming flower bed or collective planting flower bed. The ratio of the long axis to the short axis is 1:1 to 3:1. It mainly uses 1-2 year old bulb flowers with abundant blooming, gorgeous colors and a uniform flowering period. The flower bed colors are required to be bright and coordinated, mainly expressing
the beauty of the collective color of the flowers. It is used more in city parks and lively places with relatively many people in plazas in front of large buildings, and is often set in key plots where sight lines are concentrated. It is required to have flowers blooming continuously in all four seasons, so flower varieties with good growth and consistent height must be selected, and planted with soil or by turning pots when the buds are about to open.
e. Pattern flower bed
Also called mosaic flower bed or pattern-style flower bed. It mainly uses foliage plants of different colors and ornamental plants with beautiful leaves and flowers, arranged into various beautiful pattern designs, elegant and quiet, and is often used as accompanying scenery in urban garden green spaces, arranged on various inclined slopes.
A flower bed in which foliage plants are used to form various exquisite decorative patterns, and the surface is pruned into a neat plane or curved surface forming a carpet-like pattern picture is called a carpet pattern flower bed.
A flower bed whose flat surface is pruned to have concave-convex relief patterns is called a relief pattern flower bed. The raised patterns are usually pruned from small evergreen shrubs, and the recessed planes often use herbaceous foliage plants.
A flower bed in which the foliage plants are pruned into images such as characters, portraits, animals and clocks, giving it a clear theme, is called a title-style flower bed. It is often used on gentle slopes of city streets and plazas.
A flower bed in which the foliage plants are pruned into knot-like styles imitating silk ribbons, with pattern lines of equal thickness, and lawn or colored sand often used as the base color between the lines, is called a knot flower bed. If the patterns are pruned into slender ribbon shapes, it is a ribbon pattern flower bed. They are often used at solemn main gates or on both sides of roads.
Using certain steel bars, bamboo and wood as a skeleton, covering it with soil and planting foliage plants such as Alternanthera to create clocks, sundials, calendars, decorative bottles, flower baskets and animal images is called a three-dimensional pattern flower bed. They are often arranged at the intersection of visitors' sight lines in parks and courtyards as the main landscape for viewing.
In urban garden green spaces, in order to improve the ornamental effect of flower beds, the flower bed area and inclination should be expanded as much as possible, and attention should often be paid to trimming the patterns. Commonly used foliage plants include: shrimp plant, red amaranth, small-leaved Sapium, lobelia, purslane, sweet alyssum, dwarf ageratum, coleus, Echeveria, Alternanthera, Lampranthus, growing grass, sedum and Zizania.
C) Flower borders
A flower border is a long flower strip between formal and natural composition. In terms of plane arrangement, it is formal; in terms of internal plant planting, it is natural. A flower border mainly arranged with perennial flowers is called a flower plant flower border; a flower border mainly arranged with shrubs is called a shrub flower border. Ornamental plants in a flower border require beautiful shape, bright flower color, a relatively long flowering period and simple management, so that the natural group landscape can be maintained for a long time without frequently replacing plants. In arrangement, attention should be paid both to the natural beauty of individual plants and to overall beauty. For example, to design a multi-sided flower border that can be viewed from all around, use taller flowering shrubs in the middle, arrange shorter perennial iris clumps around them, and match the outer edge with blue oxalis and the like, forming three levels of high, medium and low. If designing a single-sided ornamental flower border, taller flowers such as shrubs should be planted at the back, and shorter flowers and grasses arranged in front, so as to form a three-dimensional layered feeling. To obtain a relatively long ornamental effect, two kinds of plants with slightly earlier or later flowering periods can be used together, such as peony and dahlia, narcissus and phlox, iris and gladiolus. To enhance interest, loose baby's breath and dense foxglove can also be combined in one flower cluster. Attention should also be paid to changes in growing seasons and the matching of deep-rooted and shallow-rooted species, such as Lycoris radiata and creeping sedum planted together with good results. In short, when arranging, one should consider consistent or slightly earlier or later flowering periods, blooming in clusters or alternating density, so as to show the characteristics of the season.
Flower borders are mostly set around buildings, on slopes, on both sides of steps, and at wall edges, roadsides and other places. Behind the flower border, a white wall or neatly trimmed dark green shrubs are often used as a background to set it off, making the contrast sharp. For example, for a flower border in front of a red wall, plants with graceful branches and leaves and light flower colors can be chosen; for a flower border in front of a gray wall, bright red and orange-yellow flower colors are suitable.
Commonly used plant materials in flower borders include: Chinese rose, azalea, mock orange, wintersweet, Bridalwreath spirea, pearl bush, oleander,
Spiraea thunbergii, dwarf flowering cherry, kerria, forsythia, winter jasmine, flowering almond, delphinium, cosmos, coreopsis, canna, hollyhock, dahlia, Abelmoschus, snapdragon, phlox, verbena, Coreopsis tinctoria, daylily, aster, peony and so on.
D) Flower terraces
Filling soil into a hollow pedestal 40-100 cm high and planting ornamental plants is called a flower terrace. It mainly focuses on the comprehensive beauty of ornamental plants' body shape, flower color, fragrance and flower terrace shape. Flower terraces have various shapes, including geometric forms and natural forms. Generally, small and exquisite plants with unique shapes such as pine, bamboo, plum, lilac, Tianzhu, creeping juniper, holly, peony, tree peony and Chinese rose are planted on top. This form is often used in classical Chinese gardens. It is also commonly seen in modern courtyards of parks, gardens, factories, institutions, schools, hospitals and shopping malls. It can also be combined with rockeries, seats and wall bases as decoration beside gates, in front of windows, at wall bases and corners, but a blind drain must be provided below the flower terrace to facilitate drainage.
E) Flower boxes
Boxes made of wood, bamboo, porcelain or plastic, specially used for planting flowering shrubs or herbaceous flowers, are called flower boxes. They can be made in various shapes and arranged into flower beds and raised flower terraces of various forms. They can be flexibly placed indoors, in front of windows, on balconies, on rooftops, at gateways, along roadsides, in the center of plazas, and other places.
F) Layout and management
The design and modeling of flower ponds, flower beds, flower borders, raised flower terraces and flower boxes should be coordinated with the surrounding terrain, topography and buildings. The plane should be simple, and the edge decoration should be plain, without overpowering the main feature. The shape, color and flowering period of flowering plants all change greatly during growth, so careful consideration and scientific arrangement are needed in the design. For example, if a single flower color is used, do not mix in other variegated flowers, and pay attention to highlighting the main body of a single hue. If other colors are needed, attention should also be paid to the harmony of hues: red, yellow and orange are warm colors, giving a feeling of warmth, enthusiasm and liveliness; blue, green and purple are cool colors, giving a feeling of calm, coolness and depth; when contrasting colors such as red and green, yellow and purple, or orange and blue are used at the same time, there should be a primary and a secondary color to form a main tone; white or light colors can reconcile contrasting conflicts. The height and size of plants should be matched reasonably, with the tallest placed in the center and shorter ones placed on the periphery or edge; if near a building, taller plants can be placed at the back, gradually decreasing from back to front, to form changes in height and layers. Different sowing times, cutting times, pinching and pruning methods are used to achieve the above purposes. In addition, perennial flowers are generally planted away from roads and plazas, while annual and biennial flowers are chosen for planting beside roads, by water, around plazas and buildings, to serve as seasonal decorative flowers.
For the construction and management of flower ponds, flower beds, flower borders and raised flower terraces, a certain amount of effort is required. During construction, first cover with a layer of humus soil as base fertilizer, and work the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, removing stones, tree roots and weeds. Edging or bordering made of building materials should be used around flower beds, flower borders and raised flower terraces to form a certain outline, so as to prevent soil erosion and trampling by people. The actual planting should be carried out carefully according to the construction design drawings; the grid method can be used to enlarge the pattern onto the ground, or a slide projector can be used to project the pattern onto the ground for planting. In order to reduce water evaporation, do not plant under the blazing sun. The planting steps depend on whether it is a multi-faced flower bed or a single-faced flower bed. If it is a round or polygonal multi-faced flower bed, planting should start from the center and gradually extend to the surroundings, forming a three-dimensional landscape that is high in the center and low around the edges; if it is a single-faced flower bed against a wall, planting should start from the side against the wall and gradually proceed forward, making it low in front and high in back, so that people can view it from the front. After planting, water thoroughly the first time, and thereafter water timely according to the degree of soil moisture and the performance of the plants. Watering is generally done in the morning or evening, and the water quality should preferably be natural rainwater or pond water; do not use hard water from deep wells, seawater, or saline-alkaline water. Also pay attention to removing weeds and cutting off faded flowers and dead leaves to maintain the overall beauty of the plants. In particular, for carpet flower beds, attention should be paid to regular pruning of the patterns to prevent deformation or weed overgrowth.
Methods for arranging flowers and plants in home courtyards
7、Tree group landscaping
Tree landscaping styles. In summary, tree landscaping modes include combinations by number of trees, combinations by tree density, regular combinations, naturalistic combinations, belt-shaped forms, skyline contour expression, cross-section composition, landscape composition, and other aspects.
A. Combination styles by number of trees
a. Specimen planting
A single planted isolated tree. As the main scenery, shade tree or target tree of garden green space, it should display the beauty of the form of a single tree. A specimen tree, no matter where it is, does not exist in isolation; it always coordinates with various surrounding scenery to form a unified whole.
If the tree species for specimen planting is chosen appropriately and arranged properly, it will play a finishing touch role. First, tree species with tall stature, dense branches and leaves, spreading crowns and graceful posture should be chosen, such as ginkgo, pagoda tree, banyan, camphor, plane tree, lemon-scented gum, hackberry, white birch, soapberry, Chinese wingnut, willow, ring-cupped oak, horse chestnut, sawtooth oak, etc. In addition, attention should be paid to choosing tree species with high ornamental value, such as deodar cedar, spruce, Chinese juniper, Norfolk Island pine, sago palm, etc., whose outlines are upright and clear; Buddhist pine, Huangshan pine, Chinese weeping cypress, etc., which have graceful postures; lacebark pine, white birch, etc., which have smooth and appreciable trunks; sweetgum, truncatum maple, Japanese maple, Chinese tallow, etc., which have changes in red leaves; and flame tree, cherry blossom, crape myrtle, plum, southern magnolia, persimmon, citrus, etc., which have colorful flowers or lovely fruits. Cities in various places should also choose tree species suited to local conditions that are adaptable, robust, long-lived and resistant to pests and diseases.
Planting 1-3 trees of the same species or same type close together can also create the effect of specimen planting. Specimen trees are generally arranged as the main scenery, and attention must be paid to ensuring that the form, height and posture of the specimen tree are coordinated with the size of the environmental space. For example, when arranging a specimen tree on open ground, a lawn or a hilltop, an appropriate viewing distance must be left, and a single color such as blue sky, water surface or grass should be used as the background to set off its beauty of form, posture and color, thereby enriching the changes in the scenic skyline. Specimen trees can be arranged in natural-style green space layouts such as islands, watersides, bridgeheads, the ends or turns of garden paths, rockery cliffs, cave mouths, building fronts and rest plazas, but they must harmonize and balance with the surrounding environment and avoid being in the exact center of a small environment. Specimen trees can also be arranged in regular-style green spaces such as flower beds, rest plazas, road intersections and building forecourts; if pruned into a certain geometric shape, they can better emphasize the main scenery.
For specimen planting, existing large trees should be used as much as possible, but where no large trees are available, transplanting large trees or large seedlings may be considered. For certain ancient individual trees with historical commemorative significance, careful management and protection should be carried out, such as hanging an explanatory sign, setting up fences, benches around them, or planting climbing plants, which has a special charm.
b. Two trees
Two trees planted opposite each other or adjacent to each other, used in front of buildings, planted symmetrically on the left and right in front of gateways, or dotting green spaces. For example, planting two trees or two clumps of trees symmetrically on the left and right along a certain axis is called opposite planting. Opposite planting is mostly used on both sides of the entrances and exits of parks and large buildings, or on both sides of monuments, stone steps, and bridgeheads, playing a role in setting off the main scenery; or forming secondary scenery and framed scenery to enhance the depth of perspective.
As for the tree species used for opposite planting, any with neat and beautiful appearance can be used. Opposite planting trees are mostly used in regular-style green space layouts, but the tree species and specifications must be consistent in size, and the line connecting the positions of the two trees should be perpendicular to the central axis and bisected by the central axis. Opposite planting can also be used in natural-style green space layouts; the arrangement of two trees or two clumps of trees can be somewhat freer, but the dynamic tendency of the tree postures should converge toward the axis, making the left and right balanced and full of variation while echoing each other, forming a relatively vivid and lively landscape.
When designing opposite planting trees, the interrelationships between the trees and buildings, traffic, and especially above-ground and underground pipelines must be handled well; the size, height, posture and color of the trees must all be coordinated with the surrounding environment.
c. Three trees
Three trees planted in a clump. In formal plots, use the same species with the same form and equal spacing, or the same species with different forms and equal spacing; in natural plots, use the same species with the same form and unequal spacing, or the same species with different forms and unequal spacing.
d. Five trees
A combination of five or more trees, that is, a combination of 2 trees and 3 trees. A combination of 4 trees and 6 trees can also be used.
e. Group planting
Various combinations using five or more trees. In addition, arranging a certain number of ornamental trees and shrubs naturally together according to a certain compositional method is collectively called clump planting. The trees differ in size and posture, yet are unified in a comprehensive body of beautiful form. Therefore, one appreciates both the beauty of the group and the beauty of the individual.
The number of trees forming a tree clump ranges from 3 to 10. The size, posture and color of the trees must be carefully selected and matched. Consideration should be given both to the future growth form of the plants and to ensuring that the spacing within the clump is suitable for canopy closure without affecting the growth and development of the plants relative to one another. The principles for arranging plants are: match herbaceous flowers with shrubs, shrubs with trees, light colors with dark colors, and so on. For example, surrounding a tree clump with shrubs can make the whole clump more compact, and setting it off with herbaceous flowers around the outside will make it appear more natural. Depending on the tree species, it can be divided into two types: clumps of the same tree species and clumps of multiple tree species.
A clump of the same tree species is composed of one kind of tree, but there should be differences in form and posture. Overall, there should be both primary and secondary elements, and they should echo each other. Using the same kind of evergreen tree can create a background clump, which can make the set-off flower clusters or architectural features have clear outlines and striking contrasts. Clumps of multiple tree species often combine tall conifers with broadleaf trees, with flowering shrubs around them, forming contrasts in shape and tone.
Tree clumps are widely used in urban greening. They can be used to create main scenery for shade, and can also create secondary scenery and dividing scenery for viewing, and are especially common in parks and courtyards. For example, on park islands, red-leaf trees and flowering shrubs are often used to arrange tree clumps, giving rich changes in landscape and color. Arranging large tree clumps on high ground and lower tree clumps in low-lying areas can enhance terrain variation. Using taller tree clumps in low places can weaken terrain variation. Arranging tall tree clumps on touring green spaces makes people feel they are close at hand; arranging short tree clumps gives a sense of depth. Arranging tree clumps at road turns, intersections and dead ends also has the function of organizing traffic. When arranging tree clumps in parks, be sure to leave a viewing distance of 3-4 times the tree height, and on the main viewing side even more than 10 times the distance. Tree clumps can also be combined with lake stones, etc., and placed in courtyard corners to create small natural scenes, turning dead corners into lively ones; placed in front of a whitewashed wall, they can also create a vivid picture.
f. Mass planting
Group planting, using one or more kinds of trees planted in groups on a relatively large plot of land.
g. Pure forest
A single tree species planted in a continuous stand on a large area of land.
h. Mixed forest
Two or more tree species planted in a continuous stand on a large area of land.
Planting a relatively large number (20-30) of trees and shrubs together according to a certain compositional method is called mass planting. A tree group is a relatively large plant community in urban green space and can be used as main scenery or background. Two tree groups placed close to each other can also play a role in borrowed scenery and framed scenery. In large-scale green spaces, they can also strengthen or weaken undulations in terrain.
Since a tree group has many plants, the outer plants are greatly affected by climate, and the internal plants also affect one another, so tree species of different ecological types should be chosen for arrangement in order to maintain the overall stability of the tree group. The number of tree species in a tree group should not be too large; 1-2 species should be used as the keynote, with a certain number of small trees and shrubs as accompaniment, and the number of species should not exceed 10, otherwise it will produce a feeling of disorder. For a tree group, it is best to use evergreen trees over 10 years old as the upper layer, small trees or shrubs of about 5 years as the second layer, and low shrubs planted on the periphery. If the patterns of tree species change can be mastered, small trees can also be used for arrangement. For example, in the early stage, use deciduous trees as the upper layer and shade-tolerant evergreen trees as the second layer; when the two layers grow close to each other, replant deciduous small trees as the second layer, and a certain stability can be obtained. Near the edge of the tree clump, it is appropriate to arrange some tree clumps of different sizes. For the concave parts of the edge of the tree group, tree species with large crowns, fast growth and spreading branches and leaves should be chosen for arrangement, so as to form a relatively stable overall appearance. The tree group's
plants should be both sparse and dense, and should not be planted in rows or lines at equal spacing. Lawn can be laid within the grove, and openings can be made to allow light to enter and increase visitors' interest. The contours of the canopy and forest edge should all have changes of height and undulation and winding turns.
The central main trees for viewing, and also added scenery that sets off the main body. The second plant in front of the main body is the contrasting tree, and the third is the added scenery. In order to achieve connection on the ground, add two low evergreen trees in front, and the added scenery can be placed behind.
Methods for arranging flowers and plants in home courtyards
8、Vertical greening, balcony and veranda greening, roof gardens
The use of vertical greening and the arrangement of roof gardens can further increase the greening area of cities and give play to the role of greening in the urban environment. Especially in some ancient cities in our country, buildings occupy a relatively large area, and the area available for greening is relatively small, so there is an even greater need to apply vertical greening and develop roof gardens.
A. Vertical greening
Vertical greening means using climbing plants to carry out greening on walls, balconies, flower trellises, courtyard corridors, stone slopes, rock walls and other places. Because climbing plants grow by attaching to buildings or structures, they occupy little ground area while achieving a great greening effect. According to calculations, greening the wall surface of a five-story building gives a greening area about 3-4 times the building's ground area. Therefore, in densely built cities, vertical greening of government offices, schools, hospitals, factories, residential areas and courtyards has practical significance. Many climbing plants are not demanding regarding soil and climate, and they grow rapidly and can show results in the same year; therefore, vertical greening also has the characteristics of saving labor and taking effect quickly.
Climbing plants have different ecological habits and ornamental values, so in greening design, plant species should be scientifically selected and reasonably arranged according to different environmental characteristics and design intentions. For example, for gate flower walls, pavilions, corridors, flower trellises, fences and bamboo hedges, one can choose rose, banksian rose, akebia, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, climbing fig, wintercreeper, etc., which are both beautiful and can provide shade and coolness. On whitewashed walls and brick walls, one can choose Boston ivy, star jasmine, etc.; they grow quickly and have good effects, can form vivid pictures, and in autumn one can also appreciate the changes in leaf color.
Vines for vertical greening can be appropriately selected according to different forms of use, whether edible or ornamental.
a. Edible
For vertical greening of flower trellises, green corridors and flower gates mainly for edible and ornamental purposes, grape, kiwifruit, etc. can be chosen.
b. Ornamental
(i) Ornamental flowering period: in spring, one can choose multiflora rose, blood vine, evergreen velvet bean vine; in summer, one can choose Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese wolfberry, jasmine; in autumn, one can choose Asiatic dayflower vine, hawk's claw flower, dragon's beard vine, ivy; in winter, one can choose evergreen vines (see Table 4.8.1).
(ii) Ornamental flower color: for example, red ones include periwinkle, rose, Asiatic dayflower vine; yellow ones include jasmine, rose, hawk's claw flower, dragon's beard vine; purple ones include periwinkle, evergreen velvet bean vine; green ones include blood vine; white ones include Asiatic dayflower vine, jasmine.
For vertical greening on various terraces, earth slopes, stone slopes and cliff faces, one can choose rose, jasmine, ivy, hawk's claw flower, evergreen velvet bean vine, etc. In addition, different regions can choose woody vines for vertical greening according to need (see Table 4.8.1).
B. Roof gardens
A garden created on a roof is called a roof garden. Roof gardens have existed since ancient times. It is said that during the Spring and Autumn period in our country, King Fuchai of Wu built Gusu Terrace by Lake Taihu, 300 zhang high and spanning 5 li; on it were not only beautiful flowers and trees but also an artificial lake for boating. As early as around 600 BC, King Nebuchadnezzar of Neo-Babylon built a hanging garden along the Euphrates River near his palace, as high as 25 m and divided into three levels from top to bottom; on the upper level was a palace, planted with all kinds of famous flowers and rare plants, forming an environment of natural mountain forest wild charm, with flowers and trees lush all year round and fresh flowers in all four seasons; seen from afar it was like a garden suspended in the air, hence it was also called the "Hanging Garden."
In today's advanced science, countries all over the world have built all kinds of sky gardens on the roofs or balconies of high-rise buildings. For example, the city of Zug in Switzerland built terraced housing, with each household having roof gardens facing east, west and south. In Guangzhou, Nanning, Shanghai and other places in our country, roof gardens have also begun to be built on top of department stores, guesthouses and hotels, arranged with various flower gate towers, flower trellises, flowers and trees, lawns, raised flower terraces, pools, fountains, seats, quiet walking paths and rest areas.
The key to building a roof garden is to rationally design and arrange flowers, trees and small architectural features through the scientific and artistic methods of a garden designer. In engineering terms, first correctly calculate the load-bearing weight of the garden on the roof, and rationally build flower ponds and drainage systems. The soil should be 30-40 cm deep; depending on tree size, 60-100 cm deep can be designed locally, and 20 cm is enough for lawns. In the planting beds, choose fertile loam with good drainage, or use artificially prepared lightweight soil, such as 1 part loam, 1 part porous shale sandy soil or 1 part humus soil and mixed soil, or fully decomposed sawdust or vermiculite soil, etc. Apply sufficient organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, and topdressing can also be applied when necessary, with a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium formula of 2:1:1. Lawns do not need frequent fertilization; just cover with fertilized soil once or twice a year. The method is to mix 1 part loam and 1 part humus soil, dry it in the sun, crush it, and evenly scatter it on the lawn with a sieve. There are many ways of supplying water, including subsurface water supply and surface water supply. Generally, lawns and shorter flowers and plants can use subsurface pipeline water supply, using a water level regulating gauge device to control the water surface at a certain position and relying on the capillary principle to ensure the water needs of flowers and plants; surface water supply can use manual spraying or automatic sprinklers. Usually pay attention to the moisture content in the soil, and decide how much water to supply according to the degree of soil moisture. Special attention must be paid to ensuring smooth subsurface drainage; there must never be local water accumulation above or below, so as to avoid waterlogging of plants. As for the choice of plant species, generally choose flowering shrubs, bulbous flowers and bamboos with graceful posture, low stature, shallow roots and strong wind resistance.
The establishment of a roof garden is best carried out simultaneously with the building project and constructed in a unified way, which is relatively reasonable, safe and economical. On ordinary small balconies, flower boxes or wooden packing boxes can be used to plant flowers and trees, and the effect is also good.
C. Propagation of commonly used vines
There are two methods of propagating vines: one is sexual propagation, that is, sowing seeds in a nursery or flowerpot to cultivate large seedlings, and transplanting in late winter and early spring; the other is asexual propagation, that is, cutting propagation and layering propagation. In spring or the plum rain season, cut biennial branches of about 30 cm and insert them in the nursery for cultivation, or insert them directly into the soil under the pillars of pavilions and corridors or at the foot of walls. Bury the trailing stems of the mother plant in nearby soil, leaving part of the tip exposed; because it does not detach from the mother plant, the branches and stems very easily take root and sprout, and only when the new plant can grow independently is it cut away from the mother plant and transplanted to the needed place; when the vine grows to a certain height, it can be artificially guided in the needed direction to help it climb onto a wall or trellis. On too smooth walls and pillars, first drive in nails and pull galvanized wire or rope netting to guide it to climb up the net. If carrying out vertical greening on balconies and windowsills, plant the seedlings in flower pots, flower ponds or flower boxes that can drain water, keep the soil from becoming too dry at ordinary times, and then carry out artificial guiding as above.