How to propagate lobelia? Master these key points
Lobelia, also known as edging lobelia and Chinese lobelia, is now often seen at the edges of flower beds and borders, and it also plays a big role in courtyard landscaping. Many flower lovers even grow lobelia in hanging baskets. Generally, lobelia can be propagated by sowing seeds.
Lobelia, also known as edging lobelia and Chinese lobelia, is now often seen at the edges of flower beds and borders, and it also plays a big role in courtyard landscaping. Many flower lovers even grow lobelia in hanging baskets. Generally, lobelia can be propagated by sowing seeds, and I will now give you a detailed introduction to the seed-sowing propagation method for lobelia.
Lobelia
I. Sowing method
Note that the seeds of edging lobelia are very small, so when sowing you can mix in some fine sand before sowing, or first raise seedlings until they have 6-8 true leaves and then transplant them into pots or flower beds for cultivation; use a fine-holed watering can to water, and the force must never be too strong, to prevent the seeds from being washed away. Sow from January to March, and they bloom after July; sow from August to October, and they bloom the following year. Seeds can germinate 20 days after sowing at 22°C. They are generally commonly used as potted plants and hanging basket plants or mixed with other flowers. The plants grow slowly, the seeds are very small, and no covering is needed at germination. They are not suited to high temperatures and grow better at 12-15°C. They can bloom 65 days after sowing. Generally sow 8-12 seeds per cell.
During the seedling stage, pay attention to loosening the soil and weeding. Apply 1 application of dilute human waste after planting; after the summer harvest, topdress 1 time with livestock manure or ammonium sulfate, urea, etc.; in winter apply rotted fertilizer or compost. In dry seasons, irrigate and keep the soil moist economically to favor growth. At the same time as transplanting, add a slow-release fertilizer, and then topdress again about every three weeks. Especially before the flowering period, supplement a relatively large amount of phosphorus fertilizer to favor blooming.
Many flower lovers do not know when to sow lobelia. For lobelia sowing time, the best sowing period in the Yangtze River basin is September 10 to September 20. Do not sow later than the eleventh, and do not sow earlier than September 1.
If sown in August, the seedlings will take shape very early, and they can bloom around late February to early March, but due to climatic conditions, it is difficult to guarantee the sunlight and temperature for the plants to bloom, so the flowering effect is not ideal and relatively sparse. As the temperature rises, the internodes of the branches become longer, and the flowering effect will be loose and cannot reach the goal of being very full. Of course, if you like a very graceful trailing effect, then it is very ideal. Sowing early this way also has a certain advantage, which is a long viewing period.
Sowing in September is the most suitable, especially the climatic conditions in mid-month. If sown in October, the temperature drops relatively quickly, the seedling stage is long, and growth is slow throughout the winter, so it tests the patience of flower lovers. As the spring temperature rises, the seedlings gradually grow, and the time left for pinching to control them will be relatively short. It will be difficult to achieve a very good effect. Seedlings sown in October can also be raised to size and can also bloom, but because the temperature is already relatively high during the season suitable for growth, the internodes will be relatively long, and the density of flowering will also be greatly reduced.
Because this flower is relatively intolerant of heat, the flowering viewing time is limited in many places, and you also do not want something you worked hard to raise for more than half a year to suddenly be gone.
II. Key points of sowing
Note that the seeds of edging lobelia are very small, so when sowing you can mix in some fine sand before sowing, or first raise seedlings until they have 6-8 true leaves and then transplant them into pots or flower beds for cultivation; use a fine-holed watering can to water, and the force must never be too strong, to prevent the seeds from being washed away.
Sow from January to March, and they bloom after July; sow from August to October, and they bloom the following year. Seeds can germinate 20 days after sowing at 22°C. They are generally commonly used as potted plants and hanging basket plants or mixed with other flowers. The plants grow slowly, the seeds are very small, and no covering is needed at germination. They are not suited to high temperatures and grow better at 12-15°C. They can bloom 65 days after sowing. Generally sow 8-12 seeds per cell.
Lobelia Lobelia erinus Thunb Lobelia illustrated guide: how to grow lobelia / how to propagate lobelia
Lobelia profileLobelia Lobelia erinus Thunb
Aliases: edging lobelia, Chinese lobelia, flower half lotus, South African half lotus
Classification: annual herbaceous flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledons, Asterales, Campanulaceae, Lobelia
Full bloom period: spring
Lobelia is a species under the genus Lobelia in the family Campanulaceae. Also known as Chinese lobelia, Campanulaceae Lobelia, perennial herbaceous plant, cultivated as an annual, semi-trailing, spreading on the ground, smooth or slightly hairy on the lower part, with slender branches; leaves opposite, many-leaved, lower leaves spoon-shaped, with rounded teeth, obtuse at the tip, upper leaves oblanceolate, leaves near the top broadly linear and pointed; raceme terminal, small flowers with long stalks. Lobelia is generally used at the edges of flower beds and borders, and also has a certain medicinal value.
Lobelia cultivation methods and precautions, introduction to lobelia
Lobelia is a species under the genus Lobelia in the family Campanulaceae. Also known as Chinese lobelia, Campanulaceae Lobelia, perennial herbaceous plant, cultivated as an annual, semi-trailing, spreading on the ground, smooth or slightly hairy on the lower part, with slender branches; leaves opposite, many-leaved, lower leaves spoon-shaped, with rounded teeth, obtuse at the tip, upper leaves oblanceolate, leaves near the top broadly linear and pointed; raceme terminal, small flowers with long stalks.
Lobelia is generally used at the edges of flower beds and borders, and also has a certain medicinal value.
Morphological characteristics of lobelia
Lobelia plants are about 12-20 cm tall, with fine dense stems and branches. The upper stem leaves are smaller and lanceolate, while the leaves near the base are slightly larger and broadly spoon-shaped, with alternate leaves. Flowers are terminal or axillary, the corolla tip is five-lobed, the lower 3 lobes are larger, shaped like a butterfly spreading its wings, and the flower colors include red, pink, purple, violet-blue, white, and so on.
Ecological habits of lobelia
Lobelia only blooms under long-day and low-temperature conditions.
Lobelia is not very cold-hardy, dislikes intense heat, and prefers loose loamy soil rich in humus.
Lobelia cultivation techniques: temporary planting and care
When dividing seedlings, the medium should not be too dry. Especially if the soil is somewhat compacted, the root system is easily severely damaged during seedling division.
First take the seedlings out of one cell tray and break them apart according to the situation, roughly dividing them into several piles, and then gradually separate the young seedlings. For relatively weak plants, they can be removed.
This is how they look after temporary planting; the seedlings are small and easy to handle. Generally, in the first few days after temporary planting, give appropriate scattered light and gradually transition. If the seedling root system is only slightly damaged, it can be exposed to sun for a longer time; if the root system is badly damaged, it needs a longer recovery time, so it can be exposed later. In short, one principle: transition the seedlings slowly.
During the growth process of temporarily planted seedlings, promptly pinch the tops. The frequency of fertilizing the seedlings does not need to be too high. Generally, the temperature at this time is 10-20°C, suitable for young seedling growth. With Biwang at 1:800-1000, watering once every 7-10 days is very good. Watering should follow the principle of watering thoroughly after the soil dries out.
To control mold reproduction, you can consider using some fungicide together with one watering for prevention, such as validamycin.
Pinching and branching
Use pinching to adjust the plant shape of lobelia. The usual pinching height is 4-5 cm. Pinching can very effectively promote the sprouting of side buds, thereby obtaining more branches. In this way, more flower buds will differentiate later, and the effect will be better. Transplanting and pinching do not conflict. Transplanting is considered once the root system has sprouted well and can be potted up, while pinching is determined according to growth conditions, and this work must be done irregularly.
This picture shows the traces of pinching. Maintain this height and use pinching to promote side bud sprouting, and the spread will also become larger. To make it easier to distinguish and make the contrast more obvious, and to better let everyone see the growth changes of the seedlings after temporary planting, I took 1 seedling and temporarily planted it separately in a 10*10 square pot for illustrative purposes. This seedling was originally temporarily planted in an 8*8 round pot, and later I moved it to a 10*10 black square pot. This was taken just after changing to the temporary planting pot.
You can see that the seedling itself has not developed branches, just one dominant stem.
Transplanting and potting up
After the seedlings have grown for a period in the temporary planting pots, the root system has already developed well, and we can consider potting them up for final planting. For the final planting pots, I generally commonly use the Chengxin wall-mounted model 2986 or other similar ones. According to the size of this model of pot, I still recommend adopting the single-plant growing method.
Base fertilizer can be given appropriately, but I do not recommend giving a lot; later, liquid topdressing can be considered to supplement it. For base fertilizer, I am used to using Beilei's multi-functional fertilizer, which is not very strong. When potting up for final planting, you can choose to do it when the medium humidity remains at 30%-50%. After potting up, water thoroughly to settle the roots. For later watering, it is recommended to water thoroughly after the soil dries out. Basically, in winter, very little fertilizer is applied, or fertilizing is stopped when the temperature is low, and then fertilizer is given again after the temperature warms up.
Lobelia cultivation. My personal suggestion is that lobelia does not need dense planting. A full plant shape depends on later pinching regulation and water and fertilizer management. Because from temporary planting to final planting, it is in a low-temperature environment, growth is relatively slow, but do not worry.
For root development, the medium should be pressed somewhat firmly, so that when taking the seedlings out of the container for the next stage, the soil ball will basically not fall apart. The root system will then be damaged very little later, and after planting, the seedling transition process can almost be ignored.
For trough planters, arrange the number of seedlings according to the container size. My personal suggestion is 2-3 plants. Give base fertilizer as you see fit; it depends on personal habits. In common terms, this is called an appropriate amount. For this trough planter, I also did not give much fertilizer, roughly equivalent to one handful of compound fertilizer.
After the seedling root system is stable, you can fertilize. I like to use "Biwang". The concentration used roughly depends on temperature. When it is colder in winter, use it thinner, 1:1000; when the temperature is higher, use it stronger, 1:500-800. When the temperature is below 5°C, stop fertilizing.
The whole growth process actually looks very simple, but pinching control is indispensable. Before flower bud differentiation appears, pinching runs through the entire growth process.
The entire growth process of autumn-sown seedlings is very long and requires getting through the severe winter. Generally, if the outdoor temperature is within -3°C, you can consider not moving them indoors. I have tried -5°C outdoors. If there is snow or hail and other weather, it is recommended to move them indoors to avoid it, mainly for fear that the leaves will be frostbitten after contact with water.
In the cold season, it is recommended to stop fertilizing. Growth itself is very slow, and the absorption of nutrients is very little.
When the spring breeze blows across the land, lobelia growth will become rapid. Because the branches were grown in a cold environment, they will be relatively dense and compact. When the pot is basically full, Biwang can be stopped and switched to Bikaihua to promote flower bud differentiation.
Taking shape and blooming
Lobelia cultivation. When the leaves begin to become pointed and strip-shaped, then flower buds begin to appear. Look at the differentiated flower buds; they are clearly different from growth buds.
If the seedlings differentiate flower buds in the later growth stage, but the overall plant shape has not yet reached the effect you are satisfied with, you can remove that part of the flower buds and at the same time apply growth fertilizer to adjust the plant's growth hormones.
For seedlings with inconsistent flower bud differentiation, you can still continue to use shaping techniques to handle them, until you are relatively satisfied when reviewing it from multiple angles. At this time, you basically do not need to manage it much anymore. Wait for the joy of harvest.
At the early flowering stage, you can continue applying Bikaihua once, with a concentration ratio of 1:500-800. At the same time, you can try one application of fungicide and insecticide. Fungicides prevent the reproduction of fungal diseases, and for insecticides I mainly use abamectin-type drugs to prevent red spider mite damage.
These two pesticide applications are also advised not to be omitted lightly, because the flowering season is exactly from April to May. After the temperature rises, mold and pests reproduce relatively quickly. Preventing them once before flowering can reduce a lot of trouble.
Basically at this stage, or after the flowers have opened, try to avoid direct heavy rain, otherwise it will have a relatively large impact on the overall flower shape, and the visual effect will be discounted.
Lobelia cultivation methods: sowing time
Through trying and exploring, I have concluded that the best sowing period in the Yangtze River basin (I myself am in Wuhan) is September 10 to September 20. Do not sow later than the eleventh, and do not sow earlier than September 1.
If sown in August, the seedlings will take shape very early, and they can bloom around late February to early March, but due to climatic conditions, it is difficult to guarantee the sunlight and temperature for the plants to bloom, so the flowering effect is not ideal and relatively sparse. As the temperature rises, the internodes of the branches become longer, and the flowering effect will be loose and cannot reach the goal of being very full. Of course, if you like a very graceful trailing effect, then it is very ideal.
Sowing in September is the most suitable, especially the climatic conditions in mid-month. The density of the flowers is good.
If sown in October, the temperature drops relatively quickly, the seedling stage is long, and growth is slow throughout the winter, so it tests the patience of flower lovers. As the spring temperature rises, the seedlings gradually grow, and the time left for pinching to control them will be relatively short. The density of flowering will also be greatly reduced, and it will be difficult to achieve a very good effect.
Therefore, mastering the appropriate sowing time is the key to success.
Sowing and seedling raising
For growing lobelia, I prefer to adopt the single-plant growing method.
Usually, the lobelia seeds you buy are pelleted cluster seeds, and sowing them easily produces a whole clump, so consider dissolving the pelleted seeds in water before sowing.
This picture was taken after germination. In the picture, you can see that sowing after dissolving the pelleted seeds in water can separate the seeds as much as possible, making it easier to thin the seedlings when they grow larger.
Fertilizing
At the same time as transplanting, add a slow-release fertilizer, and then topdress again about every three weeks. Especially before the flowering period, supplement a relatively large amount of phosphorus fertilizer to favor blooming.
During the seedling stage, pay attention to loosening the soil and weeding. Apply 1 application of dilute human waste after planting; after the summer harvest, topdress 1 time with livestock manure or ammonium sulfate, urea, etc.; in winter apply rotted fertilizer or compost. In dry seasons, irrigate and keep the soil moist economically to favor growth. At the same time as transplanting, add a slow-release fertilizer, and then topdress again about every three weeks. Especially before the flowering period, supplement a relatively large amount of phosphorus fertilizer to favor blooming.
Propagation methods of lobelia
Lobelia can be sown in autumn, winter, or early spring.
Sowing method
Note that the seeds of edging lobelia are very small, so when sowing you can mix in some fine sand before sowing, or first raise seedlings until they have 6-8 true leaves and then transplant them into pots or flower beds for cultivation; use a fine-holed watering can to water, and the force must never be too strong, to prevent the seeds from being washed away. Sow from January to March, and they bloom after July; sow from August to October, and they bloom the following year. Seeds can germinate 20 days after sowing at 22°C. They are generally commonly used as potted plants and hanging basket plants or mixed with other flowers. The plants grow slowly, the seeds are very small, and no covering is needed at germination. They are not suited to high temperatures and grow better at 12-15°C. They can bloom 65 days after sowing. Generally sow 8-12 seeds per cell.
During the seedling stage, pay attention to loosening the soil and weeding. Apply 1 application of dilute human waste after planting; after the summer harvest, topdress 1 time with livestock manure or ammonium sulfate, urea, etc.; in winter apply rotted fertilizer or compost. In dry seasons, irrigate and keep the soil moist economically to favor growth. At the same time as transplanting, add a slow-release fertilizer, and then topdress again about every three weeks. Especially before the flowering period, supplement a relatively large amount of phosphorus fertilizer to favor blooming.
Many flower lovers do not know when to sow lobelia. For lobelia sowing time, the best sowing period in the Yangtze River basin is September 10 to September 20. Do not sow later than the eleventh, and do not sow earlier than September 1.
If sown in August, the seedlings will take shape very early, and they can bloom around late February to early March, but due to climatic conditions, it is difficult to guarantee the sunlight and temperature for the plants to bloom, so the flowering effect is not ideal and relatively sparse. As the temperature rises, the internodes of the branches become longer, and the flowering effect will be loose and cannot reach the goal of being very full. Of course, if you like a very graceful trailing effect, then it is very ideal. Sowing early this way also has a certain advantage, which is a long viewing period.
Sowing in September is the most suitable, especially the climatic conditions in mid-month.
If sown in October, the temperature drops relatively quickly, the seedling stage is long, and growth is slow throughout the winter, so it tests the patience of flower lovers. As the spring temperature rises, the seedlings gradually grow, and the time left for pinching to control them will be relatively short. It will be difficult to achieve a very good effect. Seedlings sown in October can also be raised to size and can also bloom, but because the temperature is already relatively high during the season suitable for growth, the internodes will be relatively long, and the density of flowering will also be greatly reduced.
Because this flower is relatively intolerant of heat, the flowering viewing time is limited in many places, and you also do not want something you worked hard to raise for more than half a year to suddenly be gone.
Key points of sowing
Note that the seeds of edging lobelia are very small, so when sowing you can mix in some fine sand before sowing, or first raise seedlings until they have 6-8 true leaves and then transplant them into pots or flower beds for cultivation; use a fine-holed watering can to water, and the force must never be too strong, to prevent the seeds from being washed away.
Sow from January to March, and they bloom after July; sow from August to October, and they bloom the following year. Seeds can germinate 20 days after sowing at 22°C. They are generally commonly used as potted plants and hanging basket plants or mixed with other flowers. The plants grow slowly, the seeds are very small, and no covering is needed at germination. They are not suited to high temperatures and grow better at 12-15°C. They can bloom 65 days after sowing. Generally sow 8-12 seeds per cell.
Distribution range of lobelia
Lobelia is native to southern Africa, and is distributed in many provinces in China.
Lobelia is also widely distributed in Jiangsu, Anhui, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Hubei, Hunan, Guangdong, Guangxi, Sichuan, Guizhou, and other places in China.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of lobelia
The medical information and health dietary therapy information on Huahua Network is for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow doctor's advice.
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Medicinal value
Venomous snake bites; carbuncles and boils; tonsillitis; eczema; athlete's foot; bruises; damp-heat jaundice; appendicitis; enteritis; nephritis; cirrhotic ascites and multiple types of cancer.
Treatment methods
1. To treat cold-induced asthma and the chills and fever of malaria: Chinese lobelia and realgar 10 grams each. Pound into a paste, cover it in a bowl, wait until it turns green, and make into pills with rice the size of parasol tree seeds. Take nine pills each time, swallowed with salt water on an empty stomach. (Shouyu Shenfang)
2. To treat venomous snake bites: (1) Soak Chinese lobelia in strong liquor and apply it. (Lingnan Herbal Medicine Record) (2) Fresh Chinese lobelia 50-100 grams, pound and squeeze the juice, add sweet wine 50 grams and mix to take. After taking it, cover with a blanket and sleep so as to produce a slight sweat. For severe poisoning, take twice a day. Also apply pounded fresh Chinese lobelia around the wound. (Jiangxi Folk Herbal Medicine Proven Prescriptions)
3. To treat boils and all yang-type swellings and toxins: an appropriate amount of fresh Chinese lobelia, add several grains of table salt and pound together, apply to the affected area. When yellow fluid oozes out, it gradually heals. (Jiangxi Folk Herbal Medicine Proven Prescriptions)
Uses and purposes of lobelia
The unique blue-flowered variety of lobelia is an important variety for spring flower beds.
When lobelia blooms, the whole plant appears as an expanded rounded shape, and the plant is almost completely covered by flowers. It is suitable for flower beds, potted plants, hanging baskets, and garden landscaping, and is widely loved by households in Europe and America.
Cultural background and documentary records of lobelia
1. Compendium of Materia Medica: To treat snake bites, pound the juice and drink it, and apply the dregs around the area.
2. Essentials of Raw Herbal Medicine: Apply to sores and reduce swelling and toxins.
3. Lingnan Materia Medica Record: To treat fish-mouth and stool toxins, bruising pain from falls, malignant sores, and burn sores, pound and apply.
4. Chinese Medicinal Plant Record: To treat ascites from schistosomiasis.
5. Fujian Folk Herbal Medicine: Clear heat and detoxify, promote urination and reduce swelling.
6. Luchuan Materia Medica: Detoxify and reduce inflammation, promote urination, stop bleeding and promote tissue regeneration. To treat ascites, infantile convulsions, bilateral and unilateral tonsillitis, lacquer sores, traumatic bleeding, skin scabies and tinea, snake, bee, and scorpion stings, etc.
7. Nanning City Drug Record: Reduce swelling and detoxify. To treat malnutrition and the early stage of boils.
8. Chinese Medicinal Plant Illustrated Guide: Decoct and take to treat rheumatic neuralgia and dizziness.
Flower language of lobelia
Flower language of lobelia: pitiable, sympathy.
Lobelia pictures
Key technical points for home propagation of Rehmannia
Sowing propagationSeed selection: Before sowing, first select the Rehmannia seeds. Whether the seeds are selected well or not is directly related to whether sowing can succeed.
1. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer Rehmannia seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose Rehmannia seeds that are plump and have no defects or deformities.
3. Choose Rehmannia seeds that are free of pests and diseases.
Disinfection: Disinfection includes two concepts, one refers to disinfecting the seeds, and the other refers to disinfecting the sowing substrate. For home seed disinfection, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, and then use warm hot water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring until hot; any pests and diseases will be killed by the heat.
Germination promotion: Soak the Rehmannia seeds in warm hot water (temperature similar to face-washing water) for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this work can be skipped.
Sowing: For very small seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, you can moisten one end of a toothpick with water, stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, cover with substrate 1 cm thick, and then place the sowing pot into water, with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the pot height, allowing the water to slowly soak upward (this method is called the "pot soaking method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up with hands or other tools, directly place the seeds into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3×5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate, with a covering thickness of 2-3 times the seed size. After sowing, use a sprayer or fine-holed watering can to wet the sowing substrate. Later, when the pot soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful that the watering force cannot be too strong, so as not to wash the seeds up. Management after sowing: After sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, when encountering cold waves and low temperatures, you can wrap the flower pot with plastic film to help keep warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak; after most of the seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain space between each other; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.
Cuttage Propagation
Softwood cuttings are often taken from the current year's branches in late spring and early autumn, or hardwood cuttings are taken from last year's branches in early spring.
Cuttage substrate: This refers to the nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil and other materials used for cuttings. For home propagation, ideal cuttage substrate is hard to obtain due to limited conditions. It is recommended to use pre-mixed and sterilized cuttage substrate; medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas, as they are not suitable for the growth of flowering plants.
Selection of cuttings: When taking softwood cuttings, during late spring to early autumn when the plant is growing vigorously, select robust current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, choose the sturdy parts and cut them into sections 5-15 cm long, each section bearing more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made horizontally about 1 cm above the topmost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made at an angle about 0.5 cm below the lowest leaf node. Both cuts should be smooth (the knife must be sharp). When taking hardwood cuttings, after temperatures rise in early spring, select robust branches from last year as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.
Management after cuttage
Temperature: The optimum temperature for cutting rooting is 20°C-30°C. Below 20°C, rooting is difficult and slow; above 30°C, the upper and lower cuts of the cutting are easily infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. Cut
When the cuttage of the lindenleaf yellowflax encounters low temperatures, the main measure for keeping warm is to wrap the flowerpot or container used for cuttage with plastic film; when the temperature after cuttage is too high, the main cooling measure is to shade the cuttings, blocking out 50-80% of sunlight, and at the same time mist the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, mist more frequently; on cloudy and rainy days with lower temperatures and higher humidity, mist less frequently or not at all.
Humidity: After cuttage, the relative humidity of the air must be maintained at 75-85%. The basic requirement for cutting rooting is that before the cutting roots, it must be kept fresh and tender so it can carry out photosynthesis to produce rooting substances. However, an unrooted cutting cannot absorb enough water to maintain its internal water balance. Therefore, misting must be used to reduce water evaporation from the cutting: under shaded conditions, mist the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, mist more frequently; on cloudy and rainy days with lower temperatures, mist less frequently or not at all. However, excessive misting makes the cuttings susceptible to infection by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light: Cuttage propagation cannot do without sunlight, because the cuttings still need to continue photosynthesis to produce nutrients and rooting substances to supply their rooting needs. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration, and the more water consumed, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cuttage, 50-80% of sunlight must be blocked. After the root system grows out, gradually remove the shade net: on sunny days, remove the shade net at 4:00 pm each day and cover it again before 9:00 am the next day.
Layering Propagation
Select a robust branch and remove a ring of bark about 15-30 cm below the tip, with the wound about 1 cm wide and deep enough to just remove the outer bark. Cut a piece of plastic film 10-20 cm long and 5-8 cm wide, place some moistened garden soil on it, and wrap it around the girdled part like binding a wound. Tie the upper and lower ends of the film tightly, leaving the middle bulging. Roots will form in about four to six weeks. After rooting, cut off the branch together with the root system, and it becomes a new plant.