Detailed Guide to Propagating Variegated Winter Daphne in All Four Seasons

Variegated winter daphne is a variety of winter daphne and a traditional famous flower of China. It is not only ornamental, but its roots also have certain medicinal value, and its stem bark fibers are also a raw material for papermaking. Some flower lovers are very fond of variegated winter daphne and, while keeping it healthy, also want to propagate it themselves. Variegated winter daphne can be propagated in all four seasons, but different propagation methods need to be used. The editor will now introduce in detail the methods and precautions for propagating variegated winter daphne in different seasons.

Variegated Winter Daphne

I. Spring Propagation

Mainly by cuttings and grafting. Spring is the flowering period of variegated winter daphne and also the growing period of new shoots. During this period, the temperature turns warmer and the air humidity is relatively high, so cuttings are suitable in both early spring and late spring. In early spring, select bud-bearing branches before flowering as cuttings, 5-10 cm long. If a sharp knife is used to make a ring cut one day before cutting the branches, healing and rooting can be accelerated. The ring cut should be made 0.1 cm above or 0.1 cm below a branching point. For ring cutting above the branching point, cut it off at the right time, trim the wound smooth, remove the leaves from the lower half of the branch, and it can be inserted; for ring cutting below the branching point, if there are several branches, tear them apart. Insert to a depth of 1/3 or 1/2 of the branch. After insertion, cover with plastic film to keep warm, retain moisture, and prevent water. Because the cuttings can still bloom and sprout, rooting generally occurs only after the new shoots stop growing, and the rooting time is about 40 days. Late spring cuttings are made after the new shoots stop growing. Select tender branches of the current year, treat them with ring cutting as described above or with rooting hormone, and then insert them; they can take root and survive in about one month.

Spring is also a good period for grafting, and it is best done after the new branches stop growing. Select 1-2-year-old thick and strong branches from the middle and upper parts of the crown as scions, cut them into 2-3 cm sections, keep one leaf at the upper part, and there should be obvious buds at the leaf axils. Use 1-2-year-old white daphne seedlings or cutting seedlings as rootstock, and perform cut grafting or side grafting. Hemp rope is best for tying material because it has good air permeability, and over time it will rot and release itself. When grafting, be careful not to damage the leaves on the branch sections, otherwise the survival rate will be affected. After grafting, depending on the number of grafts, cover with bags or plastic film to keep warm and prevent water. Grafting generally survives in one month, and buds can sprout and shoots can grow in summer. Grafted seedlings grow quickly and can produce 2-3 rounds of shoots in the same year, so it is indeed an effective propagation measure. In addition, note that whether by cutting or grafting, they must be shaded for 20 days before being allowed to receive short periods of light before 10 o'clock.

II. Summer Propagation

Mainly by cuttings and air layering. At this time the new branches are tending toward maturity, flower buds begin to form at the tips of the branches, and it is a good season for cuttings. However, because summer has high temperature and high humidity, it also brings many troubles to cuttings, such as: if disinfection is poor or the soil is waterlogged, the cuttings easily rot, and because rot often spreads upward from the cut, it is not easy to notice in time; plastic film cannot be used as a cover (covering with film under high temperature easily causes leaf drop); on sunny days, water must be sprayed at least twice to increase humidity, and so on. If the water cutting method is used, rooting is fast and the survival rate is high (almost 100%), and the number of water sprays can be reduced. The method is: use a bottle or trough to hold water, treat the cuttings as described above, insert them into the water by 1/3, and keep them upright and fixed. When the water level decreases, add water to the original level. They can take root and survive within one month.

Air layering is a traditional method of propagating variegated winter daphne, with simple operation, fast rooting, and a high survival rate. And summer is the best period for air layering propagation. The method is roughly the same as ordinary air layering, except that if the layered branch is a small branch, the girdling opening should be correspondingly smaller; for 1-2-year-old branches, a opening of 0.8-1 cm is sufficient. The girdling site is best 0.1 cm below a branching point, where old and new branches meet, the tissue is dense, nutrient content is high, healing and rooting are fast, and after cutting off it can be torn into several plants according to the number of branches. If rooting hormone is applied to the girdling opening, healing and rooting can be accelerated. If a white daphne root section is grafted onto the upper end of the girdling opening by side grafting, it can have the advantages of both air layering and grafting at the same time. Note that after layering in summer, the soil ball wrapped around it easily dries out. A syringe can be used to inject clean water into the soil ball to keep it moist. After one month, the roots have grown out of the soil ball and it can be cut off and planted. If the soil ball is heavy and small branches cannot bear it, insert a wooden stick for support.

III. Autumn Propagation

During this period, the new branches have all matured, the flower buds gradually enlarge, the branches are full, and the temperature has also dropped to a suitable level. It is a good time to propagate by various methods, and cutting seedlings or air-layered seedlings can all bloom normally. When the temperature drops to about 25°C, the propagated seedlings should be covered with plastic film. The amount of water sprayed should be greatly reduced compared with summer. Check once every few days, and when the soil surface turns white, spray some water appropriately, and they can root within one month. For grafting, side grafting is better, and approach grafting can also be used. One month after grafting, if the leaves appear normal, the rootstock can be cut off, the film opened for ventilation, and the tying should preferably be released in the following spring.

IV. Winter Propagation

At this time the flower buds of variegated winter daphne continue to enlarge, and by the end of December the bud scales open and the flowers bloom. Because of low temperature and imminent flowering, nutrients are heavily consumed, so healing and rooting are relatively difficult, but the mortality rate is also low (low temperature inhibits the activity of mold). For cuttings, if a hotbed is not used, rooting will occur only after flowering. To prevent flowering from consuming nutrients, all the small flowers can be removed after the buds open, so as to promote earlier rooting. For grafting, side grafting is still the main method, and after the rootstock is cut off in the following spring, buds can sprout. Air layering is not suitable because the rooting period is too long.

In addition, what variegated winter daphne fears most is "wetness." The cutting medium should mainly be fine sand; fine sand has small particles and fits closely with the cuttings, and sand can prevent the invasion and spread of mold. It can also drain and aerate, only its heat preservation performance is somewhat poorer than rice husk ash. Variegated winter daphne has fleshy roots, and leaf mold soil is most favorable for its growth. Leaf mold soil is loose and fertile, drains and aerates well, and has strong fertilizer and moisture retention capacity. Using it with 30% fine sand as the growing medium makes seedlings grow very well. But whether it is the cutting medium or the growing soil for air layering, all must be disinfected. To prevent disinfectants from having adverse effects on it, the disinfection methods we use are sun exposure and soaking with boiling water.

Winter Daphne Daphne odora Thunb. Winter Daphne Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Winter Daphne / How to Propagate Winter Daphne

Complete flower planting manual

Flower planting manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower planting manual (February chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and a considerable number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are mainly in the following aspects: first, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protective facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, Centaurea cyanus, Gaillardia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Petunia, Eschscholzia californica, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, Antirrhinum, Tropaeolum, Viola tricolor, etc. By the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: seeds of Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) that have already split and shown white after sand storage treatment, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Fuguizi, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia, daphne (southern regions), Edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (mei), Spiraea, Mahonia, boxwood types, oil hemp stalk, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for treatment so as to be cut at the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pilea, Bryophyllum, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings such as apricot and wild peach as rootstock for cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, Bitao, Shoutao, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock for cut grafting to propagate excellent varieties such as "Suxin," "Xinkou" and "Huti" Chimonanthus praecox; using bagging and gas-filled moisture retention measures gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose variety "Elizabeth" as rootstock and scion, and cut graft or split graft excellent rose varieties as scions; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the survival rate of grafting.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Iris, Belamcanda, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, Liriope, variegated Liriope, Reineckea, Rohdea, Dicentra, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small tulip, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum types, Bryophyllum, Canna, Maranta, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, etc. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles, Edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered Spiraea, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as Nandina, holly types, Fuguizi and winter coral can be picked; after treatment, carry out sand storage to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds have split and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain moisture level in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already split and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and field planted include: Dianthus types, Antirrhinum, Alcea rosea, variegated holly, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be field planted. Among them, deciduous types such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, Cercis chinensis, Malus types, Ginkgo, Liquidambar, Acer types, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom (conducted before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia types, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, Bitao, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, Triarrhena, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (mei), Salix babylonica, Salix alba var. vitellina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia types, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Ligustrum quihoui, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, Pinus thunbergii, etc., should be moderately pruned when planted.

    1. Cold protection. In February the weather is still cold, and potted ornamental plants, after two months of continuous indoor (in-shed) maintenance, have consumed relatively large amounts of internal nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so careful moisture retention and cold protection work should continue. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue to provide heating, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, the straw curtains can continue to be hung; when encountering sudden temperature drops after snow, even more care must not be relaxed.

For overwintering potted flowers placed inside protective facilities, continue to do a good job of ventilation and air exchange. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation time can be extended during the period of the day when the temperature is highest. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities in the home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea makoyana, Syngonium podophyllum, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, and Dieffenbachia picta, during especially cold weather, plastic bags can be placed over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom with heating appliances such as a "heat lamp" turned on to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, because the temperature is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the demand for water is small. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plant. For relatively dry indoor spaces, the plants should frequently be misted and sprayed on the leaves to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds shrivel and drop. For plants such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, and winter coral, bud drop and fruit drop may all occur, and even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor and greenhouse air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, and Calendula officinalis, and for fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, and winter coral, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds, and fruits must also be sprayed with water. Only in this way can the leaves be emerald green, the flower buds expand rapidly, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, and Malus halliana being forced into bloom in greenhouses, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so they can bloom and display their beauty on schedule. For large-flowered cymbidiums purchased after being cultivated in greenhouse facilities, because the temperature and humidity in the greenhouse where they were originally kept differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese five-needle pine bonsai, the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February most potted flowers do not need much water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially when temperatures rise continuously for several days in a row, supplementary watering and spraying should be done promptly.

   In February, for landscape trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be replenished promptly. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, during clear weather around noon, leaf spraying should also be done appropriately to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping afterward, which would affect the resumption of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most field-planted landscape trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, and so on. A ring-shaped trench can be dug around the outer perimeter of the plant's root system, the fertilizer applied, and then covered with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in 10°C to 15°C greenhouses (or plastic tunnels), such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Prunus mume, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Aechmea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, and Clivia, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate to promote plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in greenhouses, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for field-planted or potted Prunus mume, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, and so on after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For flowered branches, only 2 to 3 buds are retained at the base, and all the rest are cut off, to encourage the production of many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa japonica, Juniperus chinensis, and Juniperus rigida, continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be done at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted in late February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia cucullata, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, kalanchoe, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, spider plant, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat, Buddha's hand, and so on.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on the leaves of primrose, at the early stage of disease, spray with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray with 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases can form unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium var. amara and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a small brush; when there are many insects, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as mealybugs, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and blackish-brown circular scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a stiff brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% lambda-cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clear away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the following year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, and so on into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Alternatively, pile and ferment cake fertilizer and the like, and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun. After it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried granular powder of cake fertilizer can be scattered in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially for growing flowers on balconies, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing the soil. In early February, continue turning and cultivating garden plots that have not yet been fully turned. After overwintering freeze-thawing, when spring returns and the weather warms, trenches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Calocedrus macrolepis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Juniperus procumbens, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, Armeniaca mume 'Xiaojinqian', Corylopsis sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, and so on.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If constriction marks from binding are found on the plant, the metal wire or non-metal wire should first be removed, and new binding material should be replaced to wire and fix the plant again.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, and stone-attached bonsai, continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and falling apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Field-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Field-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia figo, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, Prunus mume, Rosa chinensis, Ficus carica, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria sinensis, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Phoenix canariensis, and so on. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and humid conditions, such as Trachycarpus fortunei, Photinia serratifolia, Aucuba japonica, French holly, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Cedrus deodara, wintersweet, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, and so on. Regardless of the light and moisture conditions in your courtyard, when choosing field-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: First, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of mature large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as Ginkgo biloba, Japanese fir, Osmanthus fragrans, Prunus mume, and Podocarpus macrophyllus, whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many kinds of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for field planting. Sun-loving and light-demanding ones include Dianthus chinensis, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena globosa, Celosia plumosa, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens balsamina, lupine, daisy, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, rain lily, dahlia, and so on. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover species include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, and so on.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, King coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Fagraea ceilania (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered cymbidium, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Little Angel', Syngonium podophyllum, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota mitis, Areca lutescens, bottle palm, and so on. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can grow some species requiring relatively extensive management, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis humilis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', cacti, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Schefflera, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, large firethorn, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron mucronatum, Ficus microcarpa, and so on.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, wintersweet, Calycanthus chinensis, red maple, and Liriodendron chinense. For the latter five species, before sowing the seeds must be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand storage to promote germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus chinensis, Nandina domestica, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, and so on. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens balsamina, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter coral, four-season primrose, mallow species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, and so on. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown under plastic tunnel cover.

    2. Cuttage. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttage in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix gracilistyla, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, Ficus carica, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Calocedrus macrolepis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha, and so on. Cuttage of cold-sensitive flowers should be done in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Pinus parviflora, Pinus thunbergii 'Oosakazuki', and Pinus thunbergii 'Nishiki'; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Michelia figo, Magnolia soulangeana, and so on; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate Prunus mume, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, and so on; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select superior-variety wintersweet scion branches, carry out cut-grafting and cover with bags to retain moisture, giving a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft-propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in greenhouses. In addition, Camellia japonica, cherry blossom, Osmanthus fragrans, red maple, and so on can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, wintersweet, red maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calocedrus macrolepis, upright cypress, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, and so on.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, and so on.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of field-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and establishing field-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, red maple, and so on should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and unfold leaves; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some branches and leaves should be pruned to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting of wintersweet, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and so on is all right even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be carried. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For field-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, and so on, or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially Prunus mume, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, and winter jasmine after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, cut them off 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, and so on, after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, and so on that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as Rosa chinensis, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, and so on, promptly spray Bordeaux mixture and the like after leaf expansion, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, and so on.

    2. Management of field-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and established in March include: Dianthus chinensis, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, silver-edge ophiopogon, rain lily, Zephyranthes candida, Iris, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, and so on. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, and so on, first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, Prunus mume, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Pinus parviflora, nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Fraxinus hupehensis, and so on placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and produce leaves, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Clivia, Syngonium podophyllum 'Little Angel', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, and so on placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March, heat preservation and cold protection work must still continue. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum 'Little Angel', Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, and so on can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers in areas north of the Yellow River, heat preservation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and must not be treated lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota mitis, Areca lutescens, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and begonia species, in conjunction with repotting, carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus hupehensis, Xylosma congestum, Syzygium buxifolium, and so on that are mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done before sprouting in March, to further improve their shape. For Prunus mume, wintersweet, Rosa chinensis, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, and so on, severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for all to live on the first floor with a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some strongly resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water loss, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, cacti (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus 'Monstrosus', Crassula muscosa, Echinocactus grusonii, Trichocereus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, Euphorbia tirucalli), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Pereskia, kalanchoe, and so on. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, spider plant, and so on. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potting (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, Rosa chinensis, Ficus microcarpa, Sansevieria, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma congestum, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Juniperus rigida, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca grandiflora, and so on. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Pinus parviflora, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Buddha's hand, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Camellia japonica, Schefflera, Araucaria heterophylla, and so on can also be used as balcony potted plants on slightly lower floors, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter coral, marigold, Impatiens balsamina, petunia, and so on, can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia seeds is collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Euphorbia tirucalli, Crassula muscosa, and so on can be cut indoors at this time in plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, and so on as the cutting medium, and cut and propagate Gardenia jasminoides, Fuchsia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Rosa chinensis 'Pomegranate', Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, and so on indoors in a well-lit place by a windowsill, but the pot opening should be covered well with plastic film to retain moisture.

When grafting Pinus parviflora, Pinus thunbergii 'Nishiki', Prunus mume, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, and so on on the balcony, bagging to retain moisture must be carried out; otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For strongly resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, Ilex cornuta, holly, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, and so on, pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be done; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and spray appropriately. For Prunus mume, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, and so on, necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off pest- or disease-infected branches and leaves and destroying them; for dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture and the like for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board placed on top (prefabricated reinforced concrete). Use the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, and in summer place on it some flowers that relatively prefer humid air, such as orchid species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum 'Little Angel', Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, and so on. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, while potted flowers have not yet been moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can quickly be put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, warm and humid airflows from the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of southward-moving cold air, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the harm of snow and frost. By the time of Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Huai River and Yangtze River, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower care includes the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome spinosa, Mirabilis jalapa, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens balsamina, morning glory, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit sloteri, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis, Coreopsis tinctoria, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia elegans, Asparagus setaceus, four-season primrose, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Malva, Euphorbia heterophylla, basil, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, and so on. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia paraparadisiaca, Manglietia fordiana, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Liriodendron chinense, hybrid Liriodendron, Liriodendron tulipifera, and so on; other landscape flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia henryi, wintersweet, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, and so on.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera jamesonii, Asparagus setaceus, primrose, winter coral, Fatsia japonica, and Solanum mammosum, among others. Among them, for Fatsia japonica, you can pick fruits that have already turned black, whitish, and soft at the end of April, rub and wash out the seeds, and sow them on fertile seedling beds, or first store the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, cover with grass, and retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, after about 70% of the seeds have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and at the same time set up a shade shelter; for cultivating Solanum mammosum, you can peel off the outer skin of the harvested golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow them in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing or field-planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', ornamental peach, longevity peach, Robinia hispida, as well as cactus balls and Schlumbergera, and so on.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: Spathiphyllum, Sansevieria, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, Rhapis humilis, spider plant, Agave, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Calathea species, Aloe, Peperomia species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and so on. Flower species that can be divided in April include: Cymbidium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium, Cattleya, Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium, Paphiopedilum, Cymbidium, Cymbidium, and so on; herbaceous flowers that can be divided include: Dahlia, Canna, Canna indica, Iris, Ornithogalum, Acorus calamus, Liriope, Reineckea carnea, Ophiopogon, Ophiopogon japonicus, Aspidistra, and so on. In addition, bamboo and bamboo species can also be divided at this time.?

    4. Cuttage

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, cuttage propagation can be carried out in April. The main species include: Buxus species, Mahonia species, Nandina domestica, cypress species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, firethorn, Spiraea, Liriodendron chinense, Spiraea thunbergii, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Chaenomeles speciosa, and so on.

2. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is broken away and the root system is not severely reduced, repotting can be done in April. But it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowers and trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for Prunus mume, after leaf expansion they absolutely must not be repotted again.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting open-ground flowers and trees. Whether deciduous flowers and trees or evergreen flowers and trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April; for evergreen flowers and trees, such as Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia species, and Michelia alba species, part of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy; for deciduous flowers and trees, it is best to transplant before they unfold leaves, such as Magnolia denudata, Aesculus chinensis, Tilia, Malus species, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, Prunus mume, apricot, and so on; generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowers and trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted flower or tree. In this way, under the condition that the soil ball is not damaged, there will be no worries after transplanting.

3. Bonsai shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting normal growth, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa japonica, Adina rubella, Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Euonymus, Lagerstroemia indica, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis obtusa, Ficus microcarpa, Buxus sinica, Ulmus parvifolia, winter jasmine, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Ginkgo biloba, Pinus thunbergii, Sabina chinensis, and so on. Other species suitable for shaping in April include Crataegus pinnatifida, Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, ornamental peach, firethorn, Syzygium buxifolium, Fraxinus hupehensis, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma congestum, Taxus cuspidata, Diospyros cathayensis, Malus halliana, Carmona retusa, Chaenomeles sinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Pseudolarix amabilis, Damnacanthus indicus, and so on.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal wire or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a relatively good ornamental state. For the care of Pinus parviflora bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: first, promptly remove buds. When winter buds move and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots; second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and female and male cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth; third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, substituting spraying for watering, to ensure that newly produced needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and good.

4. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilizing

For potted Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, Rhododendron, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Daphne odora, kumquat, Citrus aurantium var. amara, winter coral, Schlumbergera, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, and so on, because flowering or fruiting consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after the weather warms, apply additional fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen, such as thoroughly composted dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth; for potted flower species that are about to bloom, such as Rosa chinensis, Cercis chinensis, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Michelia alba, and so on, topdressing should likewise be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate and the like, with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For field-planted Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Prunus mume, wintersweet, Malus species, and so on after flowering, timely topdressing should also be given to meet the needs of vegetative growth.

    2. Shaping and maintenance

Pachira aquatica can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of Pachira aquatica that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 plants into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, and then choose a suitable pot for planting; Pachira aquatica has extremely strong vitality. Even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant shape and prevent diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and decayed stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management; for flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing potted plants

For fruit-viewing potted flowers and trees that bloom in April, such as Chaenomeles sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, firethorn, Aucuba japonica, Malus halliana, and so on, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and the good opportunity must not be missed.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water and mist management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, they must be sprayed (misted) 2 to 3 times a day, always keeping the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in our country. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is much continuous spring rain. After the continuous spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. From south to north in May, flower growing mainly includes the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in May mainly include: four-season primrose, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, loquat, and so on. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: first, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated; second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dry and wet in the seedbed that cause seeds to "regerminate"; third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up shade shelters to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For Osmanthus fragrans, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, washed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the tip of the radicle is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, attention should be paid to preventing rodents from stealing them and keeping the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the soil covering should not be too deep; generally no more than 2 to 3 cm is appropriate.

    2. Cuttage

Flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in May include: Salvia splendens (pink, purple, white), Gomphrena globosa (white), marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia species, Coreopsis tinctoria, Rosa chinensis, Rhododendron, dahlia, Fuchsia, Cyrtanthera, poinsettia, Pelargonium, Bougainvillea, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Erythrina, Tropaeolum, Jasminum grandiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Acalypha wilkesiana, Deutzia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Kerria japonica, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Buddleja, Campsis, Gardenia jasminoides, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epipremnum pinnatum, Epiphyllum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia biondii, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Lantana camara, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Aglaonema, Cordyline fruticosa, Epipremnum aureum, Schefflera, Nerium species, firethorn, Mahonia, as well as Buddha-belly bamboo with aerial roots, and so on.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings to graft-propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', and Acer palmatum 'Amoenum'; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Rhododendron mucronatum cuttings to cleft-graft and propagate Western azaleas; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Rosa chinensis; use Artemisia annua as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior chrysanthemum varieties; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock; softwood-graft superior wintersweet varieties, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstocks for grafting to propagate Schlumbergera.

    4. Layering

Flower and tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, Ficus elastica, Aglaia odorata, Western azalea, Camellia japonica, Codiaeum variegatum, Michelia figo, red maple, and so on; flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Prunus mume, wintersweet, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Osmanthus fragrans, Campsis, and so on.

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white magnolia (Michelia alba), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia odorata, West Rhododendron (Rhododendron hybridum), camellia (Camellia japonica), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), banana shrub (Michelia figo), and red maple (Acer palmatum). Those that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), sweet osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora).

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For the pot flowers used for street decoration during the National Day period, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, lively and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, summer cypress, marigold, dragon's-mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens holstii, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

In late April and early May, when the white magnolia has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold its leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees that sprout relatively late and are easy to transplant successfully can also be transplanted and established with a soil ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with leaf spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of the water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, and especially not to use tap water directly that has been treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, the tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, and then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, at a concentration of 0.1% to 0.2%. The main types of pot flowers suitable for acidic water quality include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, red azalea, gardenia, winter daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, begonia species, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage plants include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, giant taro, green imperial, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-ornamental plants include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, finger citron, lemon, heavenly bamboo, winter cherry, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Pinching

(1) Pruning For the shortening pruning of white magnolia not long after being moved out of the greenhouse, special attention must be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface readily loses water, dries out and extends downward. For this reason, the cut should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and must never be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after flowering pruning should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can differentiate into flower buds.

(2) Bud pinching For potted wintersweet, attention should also be paid to the location of bud pinching. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise, the wound will dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese roses potted in the same year, the terminal bud should be removed in time to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade, such as: Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, giant taro, red (green) gem, green imperial, pink lady leaf, Chinese fan palm, Syngonium, orchids, azalea, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc.; for light-loving flowering trees, full light must be provided, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc.; bonsai plants, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, water willow, oak, June snow, black pine, dense pine, etc., require full light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, red nan, Chinese cypress, five-needle pine, etc. can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilizing

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, winter daphne, clivia, orchids, begonia, etc.; after the flowers fade, remove the residual flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented with phosphorus, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for them to differentiate flower buds again; for mainly foliage species, such as rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, giant taro, red (green) gem, green imperial, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra, ferns, etc., apply once every half month a fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer water; for foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, multicolored bromeliad, golden-center Brazilian ironwood, croton, Caladium, white butterfly Syngonium, pink lady leaf, etc., a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar supplement, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose, rugosa rose, etc., attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease, and for leaf-eating pests that appear, pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them; for the leaf-eating pest that commonly appears on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, rue, etc.???the citrus swallowtail butterfly larva, pesticide should be sprayed early to kill it.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

The ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, Buddhist pine, June snow, Chinese cypress, water willow, galor tree, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to injure the bark and core of the branches and trunk, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year the plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of equal strength meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that go dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for the vast majority of bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful, so as to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts the shape or affects the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, sago cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, it can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule and remove the seeds. First soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean wet sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack open and show white, and at this time sow them in furrows; the covering soil is generally 2 cm to 3 cm thick, covered with rice straw to retain moisture. After the cotyledons of most seeds emerge from the soil, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 batches, and promptly set up a frame for shading.

    2. Cuttage

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is great, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees is highly active, making it the best time for cuttage propagation of flowering trees. There are two major categories of flowering trees suitable for softwood cuttage in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly by hardwood cuttage, such as osmanthus, camellia, banana shrub, Chinese holly, wintergreen, lilac, purple magnolia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, Chinese viburnum, coral tree, coralbean, Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc.; the other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood species, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, June snow, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Caragana, jasmine, coral bead plant, dragon-leaf bead, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, finger citron, lemon, Buddhist pine, heavenly bamboo, trumpet creeper, red-back osmanthus, honeysuckle, hibiscus, Cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, golden silk willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian ironwood, Ardisia crenata, edgeworthia, croton, Deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, Weigela, trumpet honeysuckle, mountain snowball, peach coral species, Schefflera species, Mahonia species, Japanese fatsia, spiraea, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, Parthenocissus species, nasturtium, canary creeper, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia species, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttage of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified; the substrate can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam or vermiculite; the cutting is the current-year new shoot, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end. The lower cut is dipped in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution for 10 seconds, and after a little drying, inserted into the seedbed; the insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a plant-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

For grafting, use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft improved wintersweet cultivars; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, banana shrub, etc. For bud grafting, use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate improved Chinese rose cultivars; use one-year-old seedling apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock to bud-graft and propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. For branch grafting, use oil tea, red-flowered camellia or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock to branch-graft camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Hairy azalea as rootstock to cleft-graft or side-graft Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball flower, Chinese viburnum, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, coral bead plant, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-back oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, Acorus species, golden-edge lilyturf, etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Establishing

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: carnation, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, pouch flower, amaryllis (sow immediately after collecting), etc.

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: After wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be stored in sand until they crack and germinate, and then sown in the ground; osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit peel removed and then be washed clean, stored in wet sand to promote post-ripening of the seed embryo, and when they germinate, select nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Establishing and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need to be transplanted, established or potted. They are: evening primrose, spider flower, garden balsam, Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, red-clothed tobacco, petunia, marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's-mouth flower, summer cypress, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

After entering summer, some large flowering trees are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese fatsia, broadleaf Mahonia, Mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood species, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know." But after transplanting, spraying and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    In June, watering pot flowers should pay attention to the following aspects: first, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient; second, watering temperature, the water used for irrigation should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the root system and leaves of pot flowers and thereby affect their growth; third, combine watering and spraying. When encountering weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the pot flowers, so as to increase the humidity of the local space. If encountering continuous cloudy days, decide whether to water and spray according to the dry and wet condition of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient; deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), Persian buttercup, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperature show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, and survive the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For these, watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil should be kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the pot flowers. If accumulated water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries somewhat, loosen the soil once, so as to avoid root rot of the plants; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the pot flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the pot flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilizing

For vigorously growing species, such as Swiss cheese plant, spider plant, Syngonium, Calathea species, sword fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra, giant taro, red (green) gem, green imperial, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back osmanthus, broadleaf lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, Aglaia, jasmine, coral bead plant, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, winter daphne, azalea, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply once every half month a fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer water. For species currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species, such as jade leaf, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, stapelia, sedum species, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Pinching

(1) Pruning For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, true cypress, Chinese cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the shape should be pruned or shortened early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good in appearance, and can promote it to produce more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud pinching For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, coral bead plant, Chinese rose, etc., the residual flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and the branches that have flowered should be appropriately shortened to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees such as white orchid, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, begonia, etc., in order to promote the formation of a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowering and better flowers in the current year or the next year, the excessively vigorous branches should be topped and pinched to inhibit the growth of main and lateral shoot tips and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, coral bead plant, bird of paradise, orchids, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink lady leaf, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, peperomia, giant taro, red (green) gem, green imperial, red queen, Chinese fan palm, winter daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, June snow, sago cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot, Chinese holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, Mahonia, grape, etc.; for Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, heavenly bamboo, Buddha-belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, etc., appropriate shading can be given.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Chinese cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, begonia species, etc. are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poisoned sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose, rugosa rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) For bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, finger citron, etc., the tender leaves are susceptible to feeding by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and pesticides such as contact killers and stomach poisons can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

The plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly some adaptable woody ornamental plants tolerant of wiring, and they must be plants potted and hardened off in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, Chinese cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, hall crabapple, Mulus halliana, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, June snow, black pine, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Shaping in June must be careful, with slow and gentle wiring, and one must not be impatient or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 Grain in Ear; June 21 Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the Yangtze-Huai region ends the plum rain weather. On July 16 the first fu begins, and on August 15 the fu ends. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. In most parts of our country, the July average temperature is above 24°C, and in the region south of the Yangtze-Huai line it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have a July average temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, etc. can also be picked. After washing off the fruit flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in wet sand until they crack and then sow; wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds removed from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include:, begonia species, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, pepperomia, Rhaphidophora, Polygonum chinense, Bryophyllum, pothos, etc.
    Woody flower species suitable for cuttage propagation in July include: red-back osmanthus, heavenly bamboo, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela, hydrangea, trumpet honeysuckle, mountain snowball, spiraea, winter daphne, gardenia, edgeworthia, mountain magnolia, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, coral bead plant, Schefflera, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, Cordyline, hibiscus, June snow, banana shrub, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese viburnum, Tianmu viburnum, boxwood species, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea species, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden silk willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttage.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees can also be propagated by water cuttage. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, coral bead plant, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, etc. To propagate flowering trees by water cuttage, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforated for use as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttage clean, and a few pieces of charcoal can be put in for antisepsis.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedling mountain peach or peach can be used as rootstock to bud-graft and propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaved spirea, red-leaf plum, beauty plum, etc.; use cuttings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, "Ten Sisters" as rootstock to bud-graft and propagate cultivar Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, rugosa roses, etc.; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate white orchid, banana shrub, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft and propagate fine cultivars of wintersweet; 2-year-old seedling wintersweet can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be judged whether it has survived; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among Hairy azalea as rootstock to cleft-graft or side-graft and propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft and propagate fine cultivars of cherry blossom; use current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, hall crabapple or begonia as rootstock, carry out "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate fine cultivars of begonia species; use seedling trident maple as rootstock, bagging graft to propagate red maple, feather maple and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Chinese viburnum, oleander, Weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, coral bead plant, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus species, umbrella plant, Aspidistra, purple-back oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf species, Reineckea, rain lily, sword fern, iris, inch plant, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Establishing
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, snake's-head chrysanthemum, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, etc.
    2. Transplanting, Establishing and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers to be displayed during the National Day period. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedling or cutting plants. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom exactly during the National Day period for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's-mouth flower, marigold, summer cypress, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Japanese aucuba, dragon juniper ball, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames must be set up in time, and the frequency of spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, normal management can be resumed, and one must not be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperature, such as red wood sorrel, geranium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia grandiflora, jade beads, big crescent moon, winter daphne, Christmas cactus, purslane tree, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the pot soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot, and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperature, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Persian buttercup, bleeding heart, etc., in July they show withered aboveground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, and survive the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and keep the pot soil not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago cycad, Aspidistra, Swiss cheese plant, rubber tree, white orchid, jasmine, Aglaia, coral bead plant, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, giant taro, green imperial, green queen, pink lady leaf, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Japanese aucuba, firethorn, bitter orange, lemon, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but also leaf spraying should be appropriately given, combining spraying and watering. Especially in continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and one must not be negligent. Once the pot soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaf surface, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Do not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum stumps, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides, to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot draws out 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil here.
    In July, when watering pot flowers, avoid the few hours before and after noon, and it is better to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which affects the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If accumulated water is found in the flower pots, pour it out in time, and after the pot soil dries slightly, replenish by loosening the soil once, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, ornamental plants that should have fertilization management strengthened fall into four major categories. First, species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as white magnolia, Chinese rose, Aglaia, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; third, species for winter flower and fruit viewing, such as bitter orange, heavenly bamboo, wintersweet, azalea, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as broadleaf lady palm, Swiss cheese plant, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plant's comprehensive demand for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud differentiation, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, dilute cake fertilizer liquid or urea liquid should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, dilute liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers that should have fertilization strengthened in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Cymbidium, marigold, four-o'clock, dragon's-mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, hibiscus, jasmine, white orchid, Aglaia, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, begonia species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, coral bead plant, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many foliage plant species, such as bromeliads, Brazilian ironwood, broadleaf lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, giant taro, red gem, sago cycad, rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, Cordyline, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped, especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum species, Senecio, Lampranthus, stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent plant rot.
    3. Pruning and Bud Pinching
Ornamental plants that can be topped and pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young tender terminal bud with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, red nan, Euonymus, wintersweet, firethorn, Buddhist pine, tamarisk, Elaeagnus, water willow, Vitex, forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, white ash, trident maple, crape myrtle, June snow, orange jasmine, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoot, promoting the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient to pinch with fingers, such as juniper, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, cat's-claw holly, true cypress, etc.
For those pot flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia, Chinese rose, jasmine, coral bead plant, etc., the residual flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and the branches that have flowered should be necessarily shortened, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For azalea, camellia, sasanqua, begonia, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., the overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature in the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Swiss cheese plant, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, coral bead plant, bird of paradise, orchid species, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pink lady leaf, pothos, pepperomia species, Aspidistra, inch plant, Brazilian ironwood, Rhaphidophora, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, June snow, sago cycad, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, black pine, water willow, oak, white orchid, Aglaia, Chinese rose, etc. For Buddhist pine, banana shrub, tiger thorn, cloud bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, etc., appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the pot soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in Air-conditioned Rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Japanese fatsia, Mahonia, sago cycad, Norfolk Island pine, golden hibiscus, Chinese fan palm, broadleaf lady palm, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Japanese aucuba, etc., and it is not advisable to choose sword fern, coleus, giant taro, Syngonium, etc. In addition, in management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping away from air-conditioning outlets, to prevent wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and Disease Control
(1) When orchid new buds unfold leaves in July, the leaf tip part is susceptible to anthracnose infection, gradually spreading to the whole plant, and in severe cases causing the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous overcast rain are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-fold solution or folpet 500-fold solution for control.
(2) When red-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, begonia species, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, elm-leaved spirea, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual digging and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poisoned sticks, and soil burial of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leaf roller that harms. When this pest occurs severely, it can gnaw all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and resistance has developed, change to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to harm the new shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, finger citron, lemon, citron, rue, etc., and stomach-poison pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that harms privet, small-leaf privet, water ash, white ash, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest harming large-leaf Euonymus, plane tree, pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai Shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branch injuries are prone to pathogen infection and difficult to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some adaptable plant species tolerant of wiring, and they are required to be plants potted and hardened off in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, Chinese cypress, June snow, black pine, water willow, etc.
    In July, plant shaping should be careful and meticulous, with slow and gentle wiring and gradual force. Do not operate hastily or use excessive force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the branches and trunk of the plant to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 Minor Heat; July 23 Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display
    August has high temperature, strong light and low humidity, and is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Japanese black pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, sago cycad, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamonum, Aglaia, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated banyan, hibiscus, lantana, ivory red (coralbean), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian ironwood, broadleaf lady palm, money tree, large-leaf schefflera, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, broadleaf Mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: garden balsam, large-flowered canna, variegated shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's-mouth flower, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four-o'clock, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are also Aspidistra, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, silver queen aglaonema, etc.
Propagation of Garden Flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, summer sweetshrub, American summersweet, Buddhist pine, etc. They can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sown in bags after sand storage for germination. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, cornflower, dwarf petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixture of alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand at a 2:1 ratio as the medium, moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings can propagate the following flowers and trees: firethorn, mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, spotted aucuba, Chinese snowball, snowball viburnum, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus, rubber tree, Galo wood, Buddhist pine, Schefflera species, ti plant, hydrangea, purple magnolia, etc. Using yellow subsoil or sandy loam as the medium, cuttings can be taken from boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, serissa, spiraea, snow spray, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowers and trees can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft-graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and white magnolia as rootstocks and bud-graft Saucer magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft-graft white orchid tree; use current-year seedling of wild peach as rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf cherry plum, elm-leaved spirea, etc.; use cherry seedling as rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose and pink cluster rose as rootstocks and bud-graft superior rose varieties; use seedlings of Manchurian crabapple, Chinese apple, and Hubei crabapple as rootstocks and bud-graft Midget crabapple and hall crabapple; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and lace-leaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and branch-graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and branch-graft superior camellia varieties; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and branch-graft or cleft-graft superior wintersweet varieties. In addition, large-flowered wisteria can be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksian rose, climbing rose, weigela, hydrangea, Chinese snowball, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, golden bell, flowering quince, hall crabapple, Midget crabapple, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Buddhist pine, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Japanese sacred lily, hosta, purple hosta, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', multi-headed green king, bromeliads, Solomon's seal, aspidistra, umbrella plant, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangle oxalis, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch aster, fine-leaf sweet flag, sword fern, silver queen aglaonema, maranta species, syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, spider lily, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also be divided by small bulbs this month.
Management of Garden Field-Grown Flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, when transplanting some flowering shrubs with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shading, watering, and misting management should be strengthened after transplanting to achieve a higher survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-center (edge) boxwood, St. John's wort, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, rose, azalea, gardenia, Buddhist pine, banana shrub, dragon juniper ball, Chinese juniper ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, aucuba, French holly, etc. In the garden, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, peacock flower, dragon's mouth flower, etc., which are expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, roadside hedges in the garden such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and photinia should continue to be pruned. Field-grown ball-shaped plants such as photinia, dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, bayberry, firethorn, pittosporum, holly, and wintergreen must also be pruned again. For field-grown flowering trees and shrubs that bloom continuously over a long period, such as rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, and lantana, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately shortened. For field-grown herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, and marigold, topping and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and established herbaceous flowers, watering and misting management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw ropes, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that new shoots and tender leaves do not wilt. Spray more water and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for field-grown red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged (center) boxwood, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry, spotted aucuba, variegated shell ginger, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizers with a relatively balanced ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue to bloom such as rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, lantana, etc., as well as species about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, and autumn anemone, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in the process of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed as foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on plants such as deodar cedar, privet, pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, photinia, and camellia, spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution promptly for control. For chrysanthemum beetle and aphids occurring on field-grown chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that chew rose leaves, spray 10% fenvalerate 1000 times solution promptly for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flowers from which seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, Buddhist pine, summer sweetshrub, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-on-the-mountain, etc.
Management of Garden Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For acid-loving ornamental plant species, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia cannot be splashed with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be applied sparingly and misted more, and water should be poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, which can be done once every 10 days; otherwise, repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, watering and misting should be controlled, maintaining the potting soil only slightly moist; by misting the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, beautiful areca palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazil wood, Dutch iron, money tree, sword fern, Pandanus, Chinese jasmine (African jasmine), Lanyu cinnamon (peace wood), coin tree (dragon-phoenix wood), syngonium, green king, green queen, poinsettia, pink powder leaf, Schefflera, aucuba, miniature coconut, croton, Japanese fatsia, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For long-flowering species such as rose, white orchid, jasmine, Chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, lantana, etc., as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, kumquat, lemon, coral ardisia, firethorn, golden bullet, fruiting pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, autumn chrysanthemum, marigold, peacock flower, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, and miniature sunflower, a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and azalea, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied as foliar topdressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, as this can cause leaf rot. To be safe, spray the leaves with water promptly after fertilizing to wash away any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, purslane tree, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangle oxalis, cactus species, and cactus ball species, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it can easily lead to root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for garden potted flowers remains very important. For cool-loving ornamental plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', rubber tree, areca palm, green giant, syngonium, maranta species, red (green) gem, broadleaf lady palm, pothos, green king, green queen, orchid grass species, pink powder leaf, pepperomia, bromeliads, water buttonbush, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, phoenix tail bamboo, spider plant, Japanese sacred lily, miniature coconut, net-veined grass, purple velvet, blood leaf orchid, silver queen aglaonema, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, begonia species, lucky bamboo, aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., continue to provide frame shading, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be placed under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting bonsai stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Fujian tea, banyan tree, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, and small-leaf boxwood. For rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten-prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, so only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Japanese black pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water willow, holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, small-leaf boxwood, arborvitae stump, Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, oak, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, rose, bougainvillea, agave, lantana, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Buddhist pine, etc. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, such as large-flowered cymbidium, dendrobium orchid, cattleya orchid, Chinese cymbidium, vanda orchid, oncidium, South American cycad, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, green giant, red (green) gem, maranta, areca palm, queen palm, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', Monstera deliciosa, aspidistra, pothos, broadleaf lady palm, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, net-veined grass, gold-bracted flower, Brazil wood, Japanese fatsia, etc.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting medium can be a mixture of rice chaff ash and fine sand at a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, spotted aucuba, cane begonia, gardenia, gold-bracted flower, coral flower, fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus, ti plant, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen aglaonema, camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, etc. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, aucuba, fig, ti plant, frangipani, geranium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia, etc.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and misting of balcony potted flowers should be done carefully. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and misting, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand pool can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some moisture-loving potted flowers can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, aspidistra, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', camellia, sasanqua, syngonium, spring orchid, sword-leaf cymbidium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus, etc. Usually misting instead of watering is very beneficial for their safe summer. For large-flowered cymbidium, tiger orchid, oncidium, cattleya orchid, fuchsia, dendrobium orchid, crystal anthurium, black-leaf alocasia, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using misting instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, small-leaf boxwood, trident maple, black pine, Japanese black pine, wisteria, Fujian tea, water willow, agave, sago palm, etc., they can be watered 1 to 2 times a day and misted 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly grown for flowers and fruits, such as white orchid, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, Buddha's hand, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, holly, wintergreen, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, trident maple, water willow, small-leaf boxwood, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full light, especially shallow-pot bonsai such as five-needle pine, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be placed on the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the nutritional fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a shade net can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most bonsai stumps placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, serissa, Chinese fringe tree, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan tree, Fujian tea, Chinese juniper, arborvitae, small-leaf privet, small-leaf boxwood, firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For other potted ornamental plants, spent flowers and withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to occur on the balcony, and 25% Nissorun wettable powder 1500 times solution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution should be sprayed to kill them.

Flower Planting Manual (September Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Garden Display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in the garden. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden pine, white-bark pine, Japanese fir, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian iron, Chinese jasmine, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, variegated fig, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazil wood, money tree, large-leaf umbrella, broadleaf lady palm, frangipani, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, rose, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, ti plant, beautiful areca palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, Fumu (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, orange jasmine, Pandanus, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, cane begonia, marigold, five-color pepper, spider lily, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of Garden Flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer sweetshrub, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the seed hilum facing downward during sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer sweetshrub seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer sweetshrub, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the above seeds must all be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, dwarf petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, nasturtium, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, and calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but must overwinter in plastic sheds.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting medium, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the garden include: firethorn, mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, spotted aucuba, fuchsia, Chinese snowball, snowball viburnum, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus, golden-veined shrimp plant, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, ti plant, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, St. John's wort, spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snow spray, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, nandina, fig, oleander, serissa, gardenia, Japanese fatsia, flowering quince, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flowers and trees can be propagated by grafting: use peony root segments as rootstock to graft superior tree peony varieties; use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, etc. as rootstocks to bud-graft elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstocks and bag-moisture branch-graft red maple, lace-leaf maple, etc.; use white magnolia seedlings as rootstocks to bud-graft superior white magnolia and Saucer magnolia; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock to cleft-graft white orchid tree; use citrus seedlings as rootstocks to bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use fringe tree as rootstock to cleft-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to cleft-graft superior wintersweet varieties.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: flowering quince, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, golden bell, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, snow spray, spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: spring orchid, cymbidium, sword-leaf cymbidium, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangle oxalis, golden glow, snake plant, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', multi-headed green king, silver queen aglaonema, sword fern, nandina, flowering quince, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, aspidistra, large-leaf mondo grass, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, spider lily, Mediterranean bluebell, etc. can also be divided by daughter bulbs at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of Garden Field-Grown Flowers
1. Transplanting. Because temperatures in September are still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in the garden. If for the arrangement of a newly built garden or the renovation of an old garden, transplanting can be carried out provided soil balls are kept intact. Species include: oleander, dragon juniper, banana shrub, Chinese juniper, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, St. John's wort, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, spotted aucuba, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and watering, misting, and shading management should be strengthened to ensure success. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, peacock flower, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning vigorously growing, strongly sprouting garden hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants; this is also the last pruning of balls in the growing season this year in northern regions. Garden hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, photinia, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, boxwood, bayberry, holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, golden bell, etc. Field-grown herbaceous flowers that can be topped and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia, marigold, peacock flower, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on side shoots; stop pinching after late September. For field-grown woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten-prune the branches that have bloomed, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the garden in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase local humidity. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For field-grown colorful foliage plants such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, variegated shell ginger, croton, spotted aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright at all times, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied. For field-grown flowers and trees that continue to bloom or are viewed for flowers and fruits in autumn, such as crape myrtle, rose, fragrant osmanthus, four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, coral ardisia, kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of field-grown autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and orange osmanthus that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For green stinging caterpillars harming flowers and trees such as crape myrtle, firethorn, and crabapple, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 800 times solution for control; for star longhorn beetles harming crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, insert poison sticks into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder 1000 times solution for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. Woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowers and trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Yunshan white orchid, Lechang Michelia, many-flowered Michelia, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, pearl bush, yew, shiny-leaf wintersweet, etc. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, horse chestnut, crabapple, etc., after treatment the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year before sowing.
Management of Garden Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, light is relatively strong, temperatures are relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. For watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month they can be watered or misted once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month changed to watering once, with appropriate foliar misting. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by foliar misting. Watering time is before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic environments, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. In September, this is exactly the period when most flowers are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, and fertilization management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, money tree, Brazil wood, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm, Chinese jasmine, cinnamon species, money tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Norfolk Island pine, fishtail palm, pothos, red (green) gem, green king, silver queen, maranta species, syngonium, fiddle-leaf fig, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with very long flowering periods or whose peak flowering period is autumn, such as rose, three-color plum, lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, osmanthus, etc.; fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange, nandina, coral ardisia, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet, beautyberry, fruiting pomegranate, etc.; colorful-leaf plants such as croton, spotted aucuba, bromeliads, variegated fig, golden-edged Brazil wood, ti plant, coleus, etc., fertilizers with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, wax begonia, daphne, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purslane tree (jade leaf), purple triangle oxalis, clivia, orchid cactus, etc. that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the stage of flower bud enlargement, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, banana shrub, azalea, etc., low-concentration fertilizers with balanced nutrition can be applied; for potted herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, miniature sunflower, etc., thin fertilizer can be applied once every 10 days to meet the needs of bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are relatively high and sunlight is still strong, so shading management for garden potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving and cool-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, sword fern, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, syngonium, maranta species, pothos, broadleaf lady palm, green king, silver queen, orchid grass, pink powder leaf, Queen palm, aspidistra, begonia, epipremnum, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', red (green) gem, crystal anthurium, black-leaf alocasia, net-veined grass, red-veined shrimp plant, asparagus fern, Schefflera, variegated brake fern, watermelon pepperomia, variegated dieffenbachia, green giant, anthurium, staghorn fern, mirror grass, water buttonbush, emperor palm, lucky bamboo, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, ginkgo, water willow, black pine, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, rose, oak, Chinese fringe tree, etc., full light can be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red nan, ?, night-blooming cereus, nandina, jade tree, azalea species, camellia, sasanqua, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent wilting and affect their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, lantana, gold-bracted flower, coral flower, etc., prune after each flowering; for bonsai stump species that are pruning-tolerant, easily sprouting, and vigorously growing, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan tree, red nan, small-leaf privet, water willow, small-leaf boxwood, arborvitae (stump), true juniper, Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For peach red-necked longhorn beetles appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, and felt scale appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air, so only some potted flowers placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowers and trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water willow, trident maple, holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, ornamental pomegranate, small-leaf boxwood, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan tree, bougainvillea, rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry, Buddhist pine, spiny elm, serissa, firethorn, lantana, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed in air-conditioned rooms, such as large-flowered cymbidium, oncidium, dendrobium orchid, cattleya orchid, vanda orchid, spider orchid, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, net-veined grass, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for the 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as broadleaf lady palm, Monstera deliciosa, Brazil wood, money tree, pothos, aspidistra, areca palm, fishtail palm, queen palm, Pandanus, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, etc. Propagation of Balcony Flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed medium of rice chaff ash and wet sand each accounting for 1/2, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, ti plant, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-back eupatorium, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, banana shrub, silver queen aglaonema, etc. Schefflera, rose, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen, etc. can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. For some moisture-loving ornamental plants such as spring orchid, sword-leaf cymbidium, cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, aspidistra, camellia, sasanqua, Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', Chloranthus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, usually using misting instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, maintaining the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even the relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately water with low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, after each pinching and pruning, water with a thin liquid fertilizer once; for potted flowers and trees mainly grown for flowers and fruits, such as white orchid, rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, Buddha's hand, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or multi-element compound fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an unusual odor, especially not a foul odor, and when watering, be careful not to splash downstairs, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For bonsai stumps and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full light, in order to reduce watering amount, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutritional fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is not large, move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull on shade nets to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for bonsai stumps placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water willow, small-leaf boxwood, trident maple, banyan tree, Fujian tea, arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches and yellow leaves, spent flowers and withered stems should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperatures and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% Nissorun wettable powder 1500 times solution; for double-striped fir longhorn beetles appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, and sabina juniper bonsai, and peach red-necked longhorn beetles appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach, etc., continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Garden Display

    In November, temperatures in most parts of the country decline, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for garden display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden pine, white-bark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Chinese jasmine, Lanyu cinnamon, osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated fig, Chinese hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Brazil wood, money tree, broadleaf lady palm, bottle palm, broadleaf mahonia, Japanese fatsia, spotted aucuba, thick-leaf fig, fishtail palm, areca palm, queen palm, ti plant, beautiful areca palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, fukugi, large Buddha belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, Pandanus, orange jasmine, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, cane begonia, dragon's mouth flower, peacock flower, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dwarf petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when temperatures drop below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of Garden Flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer sweetshrub, rich seed, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful areca palm, yew, Chinese fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela florida, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the seed hilum should face downward, and summer sweetshrub seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours before sowing. Except for summer sweetshrub and Weigela florida seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the other species can have their seeds cleaned and stored in wet sand for germination until the seeds crack and show white in the following spring before sowing. Note that seeds should be rinsed clean before storage for germination; the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1?3. During storage and germination, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mold. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, dwarf petunia, cineraria, Chinese primrose, African daisy, and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-back eupatorium, Schefflera, night jasmine, lantana, firethorn, mahonia, Buddha's hand, bleeding heart vine, ti plant, banana shrub, aucuba, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela florida, snowball, red-flowered spiraea, snow spray, St. John's wort, red-leaf plum, rose, Chinese snowball, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, oleander, fig, flowering quince, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, wax begonia, cane begonia, inch plant, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, golden-veined shrimp plant, cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Japanese black pine; use peony roots as rootstock to graft superior tree peony varieties; use one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-moisture graft red maple, lace-leaf maple, etc.; use one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft superior white magnolia, Saucer magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; use triangular cactus as rootstock to graft various cactus ball species; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plants that can be propagated by ground layering include: camellia, Japanese apricot, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, Magnolia liliiflora, gardenia, Hypericum monogynum, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flowering plants that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, tree peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, double-flowered Kerria japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be propagated by division include: Chinese peony, hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, iris, Belamcanda chinensis, lily of the valley, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flowering plants that can be propagated by dividing the bulbs include: calla lily, Hippeastrum, freesia, Lycoris radiata, tulip, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of garden flowers planted in the ground

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, transplanting can be done after the arrival of Frost's Descent and leaf fall, according to local climate changes, such as rose of Sharon, redbud, Prunus triloba, pomegranate, lilac, purple-leaf plum, Magnolia liliiflora, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', golden-edge arborvitae, Osmanthus fragrans, gardenia, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, pruning back is necessary before transplanting; second, a soil ball must be kept; third, watering and misting management must be strengthened after transplanting. Garden herbaceous flowers that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, ornamental kale, pansy, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, snapdragon, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulbous flowers that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus, Narcissus poeticus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year on hedges and topiary balls in the garden, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Garden color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edge privet, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, golden-edge arborvitae, golden-edge Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum quihoui, etc. Topiary balls that need pruning include: Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', boxwood, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For continuously blooming garden plants in the ground, such as rose, crape myrtle, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and faded stems, and moderately prune back the branches that have bloomed. For garden herbaceous flowers in the ground, such as Salvia splendens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the open inflorescences to encourage the lateral shoots to continue producing buds and blooming, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For garden flowers and trees newly planted this year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, continue to mist the leaf surfaces. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to maintain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For autumn herbaceous flowers planted in the ground in the garden, it is advisable to apply a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for osmanthus that has already bloomed, a ring-shaped trench can be opened to bury base fertilizer; for rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, Hibiscus mutabilis, camellia, Michelia figo, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for Nandina domestica and Pyracantha fortuneana that are in the fruit-viewing stage, as well as southern plants such as bergamot, kumquat, bitter orange, and Diospyros cathayensis, a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied as a liquid drench, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For wood-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Japanese apricot, purple-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the garden, promptly sweep them up, collect them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the garden, whitewashing can be done at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia fordiana, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, French holly, Cinnamomum camphora, privet, Ligustrum quihoui, Chinese snowball viburnum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc. These seeds must all be stored in moist sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: crape myrtle, Liriodendron chinense, red maple, Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, redbud, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia cristata, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, marigold, Tagetes patula, Aster, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Euphorbia marginata, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Codariocalyx motorius, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna indica, dahlia, etc., when the above-ground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature no lower than 5°C, and wait until next spring to cut and replant them.

Management of garden potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huaihe River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red gem, etc., it is advisable to water once a day on sunny days, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after autumn, including semi-dormant types, such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, pelargonium, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For wintersweet, Japanese apricot, camellia, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled, with more misting, to facilitate the expansion of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, helping them overwinter safely. The best time for watering is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers that resume growth after the autumn cool, promptly apply a low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for camellia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Narcissus poeticus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Nandina domestica, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros cathayensis, etc., a small amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be applied in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some extremely shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Emerald Gem', Boston fern, Peperomia, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and fallen leaves, pest-damaged branches, and weak branches; for leggy branches, carry out strong pruning back; for ties that have been shaping the plant for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or re-tied after untiing, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them together, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control pests such as aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leafminer larvae, and inchworms.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    On balconies in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, Pinus thunbergii 'Umbraculifera', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Geum japonicum, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, pomegranate, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus microcarpa, Ginkgo biloba, rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago palm, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flowers and trees, when the temperature drops to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Roystonea regia, Dracaena sanderiana, Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers: in early October, you can continue to use a large-mouth flower pot as a cutting container on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting medium of half rice husk ash and half moist sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting medium, cover with plastic film to maintain moisture, and propagate a small number of ornamental plants by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, bergamot, Aglaonema commutatum, Epipremnum aureum, pelargonium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and misting the branches and leaves at the same time can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Xanadu', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea, pothos, etc., misting should be primary and watering secondary, to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, kumquat, lemon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros cathayensis, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, winter coral, etc., a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, etc., 1 to 2 applications of dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be made in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect those nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc. This is especially important for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai. For some shade-loving foliage plants, during the 3 to 4 hours around noon on clear days, they can be moved indoors. The shade net set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Fujian tea, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', privet, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for wiring and fixing, to avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as rose, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, dead branches and fallen leaves on all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, the maintenance of flowers and trees should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, plowing the ground and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, Gerbera jamesonii, clivia, Asparagus setaceus, hosta, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum quihoui, privet, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be done, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: purple-leaf plum, Japanese apricot (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), rose (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: purple-leaf plum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, holly, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root cuttings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus', Pilea cadierei, golden-edge privet, gardenia, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia fortunei, Serissa foetida 'Aureo-marginata', etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate topiary balls for landscaping. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be made of Begonia maculata, Begonia rex, Begonia nelumbiifolia, pelargonium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored, to be used for cuttings next spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' indoors with bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft Japanese apricot (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); using thick branches of rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion, and branches of superior rose varieties as scion, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliiflora, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball viburnum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena sacchariflora, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia fortunei, Buddleja lindleyana, tree peony, Caragana sinica, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, Canna indica, and Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided, and planted out.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, iris, ornamental bromeliads, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe pinnata, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, marigold, Abutilon, etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected and stored dry in November include: black pine, Pinus taiwanensis, five-needle pine, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, crape myrtle, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in moist sand include: privet, Ligustrum quihoui, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, holly, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted out in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangements in November include: Silene armeria, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, ornamental kale, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, privet, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, red maple, purple-leaf plum, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Aesculus chinensis, Tilia, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately pruned back or shortened, and most leaves must be removed; the trunk should be bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball must be kept (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches can be pruned, with a good soil ball kept and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water evaporation from the tree body.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic tunnels to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not overly wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf misting should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be frequently misted, to facilitate the expansion and growth of flower buds and to make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaf surfaces should also be frequently misted, so that they always maintain lush, glossy leaf color. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For relatively cold-sensitive foliage plants, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Codiaeum variegatum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The best time for watering potted flowers in November is 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically consistent with the soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by too-low water temperature, which would then affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, cineraria, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Schlumbergera, Aechmea, etc., can continue to be top-dressed with low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, top-dressing should be stopped to help them overwinter normally in dormancy. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as crabapple, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia fordiana, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea, Osmanthus fragrans, grape, rose, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, cherry blossom, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia viridissima, Chinese peony, Hypericum monogynum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, to lay a good material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and topiary ball shapes that have not yet been fully pruned. After pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Fujian tea, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., to lay a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, carry out strong pruning back of the current-year branches, apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to help produce more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flower beds, along roadsides, and in gardens, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia liliiflora, Forsythia viridissima, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, crabapple, etc., cut off all irregular branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately prune back leggy branches protruding beyond the crown. In addition, in November, large palm trees can be stripped of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they display their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and tree species, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Elaeagnus pungens, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, rubber tree, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, Codiaeum variegatum, Justicia aurea, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Plumeria rubra, Dracaena sanderiana, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, etc., they should be placed indoors where the room temperature is no lower than 10°C, or protected through winter with double-layer plastic tunnels.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, crabapple, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, crape myrtle, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Acer buergerianum, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pot in wind-sheltered, sunny soil. Under conditions no lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, causing flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. During ventilation and air exchange, also note that plants must not be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple, rose, rose, camellia, chrysanthemum, etc., collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dry-trunk and split-trunk tree-stump bonsai, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the dry and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, bergamot, Cycas revoluta, orchids, camellia, clivia, Aspidistra elatior), first, wipe them off with a wet cloth; second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying fertilizers such as leaf-surface nutrient supplements, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    Bonsai plant species suitable for shaping in November mainly include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa', Sabina chinensis var. procumbens, Euonymus verrucosus, Serissa japonica, Japanese apricot, Corylopsis sinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, holly, Buxus sinica, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Ulmus parvifolia, Malus halliana, etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and hung with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branch tying and adjustment can be redone.

For new tree stumps such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Geum japonicum, Pyracantha fortuneana, Elaeagnus pungens, etc., after initial root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch breaking, plant them well in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burying and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout next year.

After 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, basically formed tree stumps can, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the stump trunk, roots, and branches, be potted anew in suitable pots, matched with fist stones, and dotted with moss, and can then be used for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Sabina chinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. can, in November, be planted in suitable pots, with strengthened water management, and can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, the vast majority of our country enters winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent white frost. This month, the maintenance of flowers and trees should pay attention to three aspects of work: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees moved into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, do a good job of pruning, cleaning, and plowing and fertilizing open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixed culture soil.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Sinningia speciosa, Asparagus setaceus, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, Gerbera jamesonii, etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stored in sand to promote germination include: rose (such as Elizabeth), Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, holly, Pyracantha fortuneana, Trachycarpus fortunei, privet, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum quihoui, Sapindus mukorossi, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: Japanese apricot (mainly varieties such as palace pink and green calyx); rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose, miniature rose); purple-leaf plum, wintersweet (heel cuttings), Spiraea, boxwood, etc. Among them, Japanese apricot and purple-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat preservation and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, leaf cuttings can be used to propagate African violet; combined with pruning, cuttings can be made of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, pelargonium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Kalanchoe pinnata, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Begonia cucullata, Begonia maculata, Begonia elatior, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana camara, Schefflera octophylla, Daphne odora, pothos, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using cold-frame seedbeds, cuttings can also be made of gardenia, Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-variegatus', Mahonia fortunei, Hypericum monogynum, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Salix leucopithecia, Triarrhena sacchariflora, etc. In addition, branches of Campsis grandiflora, lilac, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored in sand, to be used for cuttings next spring.

    3. Grafting. Superior Japanese apricot varieties, such as 'Gu Hong' and 'Zhu Sha', can, in December, use seedlings sown that year of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc.; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in seedbeds at a certain spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion. Be careful not to let water seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film for heat preservation and moisture retention, and remove the covering film after the scion sprouts next spring. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft superior rose varieties; or use robust branch segments of the Elizabeth rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted Elizabeth scion segments into loose seedbeds. The grafted part can be buried together in sandy soil, and water should not seep into the union when watering; cover with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, remove the covering film after the scion sprouts next spring, and only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut open the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can also be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Japanese apricot, camellia, Osmanthus fragrans, Michelia figo, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Chinese snowball viburnum, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Oxalis corymbosa, Aspidistra elatior, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Belamcanda chinensis, iris, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata, Rohdea japonica, Kalanchoe pinnata, Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off the basal offsets from a large variegated bromeliad plant for division, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the separated offsets are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: Nandina domestica, Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia fortunei, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea japonica, Caragana sinica, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Magnolia liliiflora, gardenia, Agave sisa lana, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, marigold, Tagetes patula, cyclamen, clivia, etc. Clivia seeds are best sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: rose, Wisteria sinensis, privet, Ligustrum quihoui, Pyracantha fortuneana, Ardisia crenata, holly, Cinnamomum camphora, Photinia. After treatment, these seeds basically all need to be stored in sand to promote germination; only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: Dianthus, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, pansy, etc., and can be used for street display next spring.

    In December, most deciduous landscaping trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Sapindus mukorossi, Koelreuteria paniculata, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, purple-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles sinensis, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, Wisteria sinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Tilia, Liriodendron chinense, red maple, ornamental peach, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc. However, transplanting evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, Osmanthus fragrans, Trachycarpus fortunei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, azalea, holly, etc. When transplanting, first carry out strong pruning back of the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, keep a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, also frequently mist the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowers and trees that can be potted in December include: Japanese apricot, wintersweet stumps, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower-forcing treatment, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinth, tulip, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with a temperature no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without freeze damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Livistona chinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Rhapis excelsa, Nandina domestica, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus argenteostriatus, Cycas revoluta, etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Chamaedorea elegans, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea spectabilis, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana camara, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, Dypsis lutescens, pelargonium, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bambusa ventricosa, etc., they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature no lower than 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum, Caladium bicolor, Peperomia, Calathea, Dracaena sanderiana, Caryota mitis, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, bromeliads, Dieffenbachia, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Zamia furfuracea, red (green) gem, Oncidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, etc., in double-layer tunnels with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be given. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, add straw curtains on top of the tunnel, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, Japanese apricot, crabapple, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Xylosma racemosum, crape myrtle, Wisteria sinensis, boxwood, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis, Geum japonicum, Ilex cornuta, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; if particularly cold weather occurs, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage- and fruit-viewing plants must, besides maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, also pay attention to ventilation and air permeability. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation and air exchange, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. During ventilation and air exchange, also note that cold wind must not directly hit the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are extremely prone to root rot. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate leaf misting given.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, hyacinth, European narcissus, etc., and fruit-viewing types such as bitter orange, lemon, bergamot, Calamondin, kumquat, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but leaf misting must also be given, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants kept indoors, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to spray water on the leaves, always keeping the foliage clean; for foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Calathea, Syngonium, Maranta, Codiaeum, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature has approached the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can safely overwinter.

    In December, the best time for watering is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in a timely manner; for transplanted evergreen trees, spray water on the leaves appropriately around noon to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most of the greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapples, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Manglietia, Michelia, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Gardenia, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Osmanthus, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, cherry, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Sapindus, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria, Trachycarpus fortunei, Paeonia lactiflora, Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Rosa chinensis, Spiraea, Liriodendron, Philadelphus, Deutzia, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia, Wisteria, Pyracantha, Nandina, Syringa, Campsis, Rosa banksiae, Hypericum, Salix babylonica, Cryptomeria, Cedrus deodara, cypresses, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus triloba, Prunus japonica, Exochorda, Photinia, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, etc., in December, while tilling the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, septic tank residue, etc., to lay a good material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, bromeliads, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus, Clivia, Tulipa, Freesia, etc., continue to apply 1.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November; hedges and green walls such as Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum sinense, Euonymus japonicus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', and Photinia davidsoniae; ball-shaped plants such as Ilex cornuta, Myrica rubra, Photinia, Buxus, Pittosporum tobira, Forsythia, Pyracantha, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Juniperus, etc.; while completing the pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees not yet pruned in November, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia, Trachycarpus fortunei, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Photinia, Platanus orientalis, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root zone.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha, Serissa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Blaauw', Sabina chinensis, Malus, Chaenomeles, etc., continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapples, roses, Rosa chinensis, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia, etc., collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted Pericallis hybrida and gray mold on Primula, for the former use triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl for timely control, and for the latter use thiophanate-methyl for control.

For species of flowers and trees in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Cycas revoluta, Camellia japonica, Aspidistra elatior, etc., first wipe them with a cloth, then use pesticides such as Supracide for control.

When ventilation is poor, for flower and tree species on potted plants that often have aphids, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Rosa chinensis, Carmona retusa, etc., tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground cultivated Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus, Platanus orientalis, Camellia japonica, Ligustrum quihoui, Pyracantha, Nerium oleander, Malus, Magnolia denudata, Cercis chinensis, Gardenia, Cedrus deodara, Photinia, Lagerstroemia, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, Ceroplastes rubens, Diaspididae, Unaspis yanonensis, Pseudococcidae, Eriococcidae, etc.; at this time, spraying and killing with higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and preparation of potting soil, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil in the coming year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find an empty plot or a spot under the shade of trees, and compost as much potting soil as possible to prepare for repotting and potting bedding flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer; the garden soil and leaf mold should be sifted to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, and after fully mixing evenly, cover with plastic film, or it can be piled indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting bedding flowers.

    8. Plowing and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before plowing; if beds are not made for the time being, after overwintering and freezing clods, then in early spring of the coming year trenches can be drawn and beds made, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Blaauw', Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa', Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus procumbens, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus densiflora, Geum japonicum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Euonymus pendulus, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa, Caragana sinica, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Corylopsis, Tamarix chinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles cathayensis, Buxus sinica, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus hupehensis, Xylosma, etc.

For bonsai plants fixed by shaping with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already been in place for one year, or if obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the original binding material should be removed and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for hanging, tying, and pulling.

For ground-planted already-shaped plum stumps, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Malus, Ginkgo biloba, Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia, etc., after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used next year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, management must be careful: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on the rockery from being frozen to death or dying from dryness. They can be placed in a non-freezing location and watered and sprayed regularly, so that they can safely overwinter.

Flower Planting Manual (January Edition)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves southward, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year occurs. For flower care this month, the most important thing is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, followed by auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Sinningia speciosa, Asparagus setaceus, Clivia, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Gerbera jamesonii, etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown in open ground outdoors include: Rosa chinensis 'Elizabeth', Nandina, Ardisia crenata, Ilex chinensis, Pyracantha, Trachycarpus fortunei, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Sapindus, Ligustrum lucidum, Wisteria, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: Prunus mume (cultivars such as 'Lü'e' and 'Gongfen'), Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry, Chimonanthus praecox (with heel), Spiraea, Buxus, pomegranate, Salix leucopithecia, Mahonia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Serissa, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum, etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Pelargonium, Fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Rhododendron hybridum, Bougainvillea, Dianthus caryophyllus, Cyperus alternifolius, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Echeveria, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pilea cadierei, Pilea peperomioides, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Bryophyllum, Begonia elatior, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera arboricola, Ficus elastica, Daphne odora, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema modestum, Epipremnum aureum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. In addition, branches of Syringa, Campsis, Tamarix, grape, Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Platanus, Ficus carica, etc. can also be cut and stored in sand, to be used for cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, Prunus davidiana, or wild peach can be used as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, plant them in the seedling bed and cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In the Guangdong region, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, budding is often used to propagate Citrus japonica 'Japonica', Fortunella margarita, etc.; using dug-up wild rose as rootstock to bud excellent Rosa chinensis cultivars, using Rosa chinensis 'Elizabeth' as rootstock material, cut grafting or cleft grafting excellent Rosa chinensis cultivars, grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: Magnolia liliiflora, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Gardenia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia, Hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata 'Variegata', Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris, Chlorophytum, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, Oxalis, Alpinia zerumbet, Monstera deliciosa, Aloe, etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: Nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Caragana sinica, Forsythia, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus indicus, Gardenia, Triarrhena, Buxus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    6. Harvesting seeds. In January, if there are mature seeds of Asparagus setaceus and Clivia in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after harvesting; mature seeds of Solanum pseudocapsicum can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of Nandina, Pyracantha, Ilex, Ardisia crenata, etc. can be collected; after treatment, store them in sand to promote germination, and sow only after the seeds crack open and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Ilex, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish spraying with water in a timely manner; if the seeds are found to have cracked open and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. to retain heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, bedding flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus, ornamental kale, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, etc.; in relatively colder regions, after potting seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, Antirrhinum, Viola tricolor, Primula, etc., first place them in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, Cercis chinensis, Malus, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Sapindus, Koelreuteria, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', cherry, Chaenomeles, Magnolia soulangeana, Lagerstroemia, Wisteria, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena, Rosa chinensis, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc. Evergreen tree species, especially Cinnamomum camphora and Ligustrum sinense, except under special circumstances, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in sheltered locations, after transplanting with heavy pruning and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in regions south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation and land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Rhododendron simsii, Lagerstroemia, Acer palmatum, Wisteria, Chimonanthus praecox, wild plum, Elaeagnus, Euonymus pendulus, etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as Nandina, Ilex cornuta, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Xylosma, etc., heavy pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open ground. In simple plastic tunnels not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure lows of about 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri', Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Livistona chinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Rhapis excelsa, Nandina, Aucuba japonica, Michelia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne odora, Cycas revoluta, Acorus calamus, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Sasa fortunei, etc. In double-layer plastic tunnels not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure lows of about 5°C can be placed, such as Araucaria heterophylla, Ficus elastica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Chamaedorea elegans, Aglaonema, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon, Dypsis lutescens, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Bambusa ventricosa, Rhododendron hybridum, Bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure lows of about 10°C can be placed, such as Codiaeum, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium, Maranta, bromeliads, Peperomia, Coleus, Dracaena sanderiana, Caryota mitis, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Fittonia, Fittonia 'Red Gem' (or 'Green Gem'), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Zamia, Adenium obesum, Calathea, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pachystachys lutea, Russelia equisetiformis, etc.; during especially cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnels, and covering with straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warm. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and personnel on duty, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freezing damage to the plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flowers and bonsai plant species, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Xylosma, Lagerstroemia, Wisteria, Buxus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Sabina chinensis 'Blaauw', Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Variegata', Platycladus orientalis, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur, and when especially cold weather is encountered, plastic film or soft grass can be added for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, including fruit-viewing and foliage plants, in addition to maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation and air exchange must also be done well; around noon when the temperature is highest in the day, open doors and windows for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air intrusion; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in a timely manner, so as not to freeze potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully to prevent leaking gas or smoke from entering the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, so as to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage, etc.

To force potted peonies to bloom at Spring Festival, place the potted peonies in a greenhouse, heat to 18°C to 25°C during the day, keep about 10°C at night, and increase lighting by 4 to 5 hours per day (incandescent lamps); they can be expected to bloom around Spring Festival. Potted Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. can also be placed in tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased lighting time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during Spring Festival. For potted Hyacinthus, Tulipa, Narcissus poeticus, Freesia, etc. that were placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For potted flower watering management in January, the most important thing first is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature broadly consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and may even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death. The watering time is best arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly, and when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and spray water on the leaves. For the vast majority of foliage plants, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to pay attention to spraying water on the leaves, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Calathea, Syngonium, Maranta, Codiaeum, etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can endure, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower species that will bloom around Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Pericallis hybrida, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Primula, Hyacinthus, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing types such as Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also must spray water on the plants, to help the flower buds expand, and also to increase the bright color of the fruit.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and replenish watering in a timely manner for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in a timely manner, especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting; around noon, water should also be sprayed appropriately on the leaves, to prevent the leaves from shriveling and dropping because the air is too dry.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as Malus, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia, Acer, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Tilia, Lagerstroemia, Campsis, Osmanthus, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, cherry, Sapindus, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria, Trachycarpus fortunei, Schima superba, Machilus, Nyssa, Camptotheca, Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia, Buxus, grape, Viburnum odoratissimum, Rosa chinensis, Hydrangea, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Liriodendron, Deutzia, Philadelphus, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus, Salix matsudana 'Umbraculifera', Ulmus pumila var. pendula, Cryptomeria, Taiwania, Cedrus deodara, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Exochorda, Hibiscus syriacus, Syringa, Lagerstroemia, Photinia, Nandina, Phyllostachys nigra, pomegranate, Eriobotrya japonica, etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, then while tilling the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer perimeter of the tree root zone, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Rhododendron hybridum, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Narcissus poeticus, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus, Tulipa, Vriesea, Clivia, Strelitzia, Schlumbergera, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to help plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped plants, etc. that were not pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia, Rosa banksiae, Campsis, Wisteria, floribunda rose, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Sapium sebiferum, Photinia, pomegranate, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Chaenomeles, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Trachycarpus fortunei, grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root zone, to meet the needs of their spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and secondarily wired, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Bougainvillea, Carmona retusa, Xylosma, Fraxinus hupehensis, Geum japonicum, Elaeagnus, Pyracantha, Serissa, Juniperus, etc., continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of Malus, Prunus mume, Prunus triloba, Chaenomeles, Eriobotrya japonica, Prunus persica 'Duplex', cherry, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', etc. that have been hollowed out by Aromia bungii, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear away the leaves under Rosa chinensis, roses, grape, Lagerstroemia, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized place, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, Ceroplastes rubens, Icerya purchasi, Diaspididae, Unaspis yanonensis, Pseudococcidae, Eriococcidae, etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of Pittosporum tobira, Platanus orientalis, Ligustrum lucidum, Pyracantha, persimmon, Gardenia, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Photinia, etc., spray and kill with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in the current year.

For powdery mildew appearing on Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses and gray mold that easily appears on Primula leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, and Fortunella margarita in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on Cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into ponds or water vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering and applying to potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to make burned soil by oneself, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, soil and miscellaneous manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring draw trenches and make beds, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and easy shaping operations, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Blaauw', Ginkgo biloba, Buxus sinica, Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa', Sabina chinensis, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Pinus parviflora, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Geum japonicum, Caragana sinica, Corylopsis, Euonymus pendulus, Ficus microcarpa, Wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts that may have been injured during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, remove the original binding material and carry out shaping, tying, and pulling anew.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots, and could cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on small rocks from dying after freezing; it is best to place them in a non-freezing location and water and spray them regularly, so as to ensure they can safely overwinter.