How to propagate the five-fingered dragon (Ipomoea cairica)? Master these propagation key points

The five-fingered dragon blooms in midsummer, and its flowers are so numerous that they look like a sea of purple blossoms. It is not only an ornamental plant, but can also be made into a summer shade arbor. Artificial cultivation of the five-fingered dragon is not difficult, and propagation can also be carried out by two methods: sowing and cuttings. The editor will introduce the propagation methods of the five-fingered dragon for you.

Five-fingered dragon (Ipomoea cairica)

The five-fingered dragon can be propagated by sowing or cuttings. Sowing in May is most suitable, covering with 1 cm of soil, and it can germinate in 5 to 6 days. Once the two leaves unfold, the seedlings can be separated. Research on its breeding system shows that the five-fingered dragon is a self-incompatible plant, and its seeds can only be obtained through cross-pollination.

The five-fingered dragon is usually propagated by seeds, with a large quantity of seeds, a high germination rate, easy propagation, and rapid growth; however, in the Guangdong region of China, it only flowers and rarely sets seed, mainly using stems for asexual propagation, and vegetative growth can be carried out throughout the year. For the rest, see Liao Yiying et al., Research on the life history characteristics of the invasive weed Ipomoea cairica in agriculture and forestry, habitat and tolerance. The five-fingered dragon has a sun-loving characteristic, and often grows in wasteland at an altitude of 90 to 610 m, in low thickets by the coast, in shrubs, in mountain forests, and along streams and ditches.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Spring Flower Planting Key Points

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter, and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy into the recovery stage. This month's main flower work is mainly in the following aspects: First, continue to do a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting of some woody flowers; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Sinningia speciosa, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, Centaurea cyanus, Gaillardia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, peacock chrysanthemum, Petunia, Eschscholzia californica, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, Antirrhinum, Tropaeolum, Viola tricolor, etc. By the end of February, those that can be sown outdoors in the open include: seeds of Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species (Rosaceae) that have been stratified in sand and have already cracked and shown white; also Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron chinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Trachycarpus fortunei, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus chinensis, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Wisteria sinensis, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and Hippeastrum bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention include: Prunus mume (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lv'e), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia indica, Daphne odora (southern regions), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (mei), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus species, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela florida, Deutzia scabra, Hydrangea macrophylla, Tamarix chinensis, Platanus orientalis, grape, Ficus carica, etc. can also continue to be cut for storage treatment, so as to be cuttings by the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be cuttings indoors include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Pilea cadierei, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Begonia elatior, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera octophylla, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Nishiki pine, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with plastic film for heat and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In regions south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus praecox branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus praecox seedlings with a diameter of about 0.8 to 1.2 cm as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate excellent varieties of Chimonanthus praecox such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti', adopting bagging and inflation measures for moisture retention, resulting in a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock scions, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for scions of excellent rose varieties, adopting measures of grafting first, then cuttings, then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, which can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, small taran, Bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Chlorophytum species, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Canna indica, Maranta, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Aloe, etc. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Ardisia crenata, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc. can be picked, treated, and then stratified in sand to promote germination; only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown. For Clivia miniata plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia miniata seeds with relatively good genetic quality.

    In February, attention should be paid to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any seed mold appears; if mold occurs, it should be cleaned in time; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriate supplementary spraying with water can be given to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, they should be sown in a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown by dibbling, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and field planting. In February, the soil in southern regions does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high. Herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and field planted include: Dianthus species, Antirrhinum, Alcea rosea, Ilex variegata, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can all be field planted. Among them, deciduous species such as Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, Ginkgo biloba, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume (before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia species, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus serrulata, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron chinense, ornamental peach, Sapium sebiferum, Spiraea, three-ya, Deutzia scabra, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (mei), Salix babylonica, Salix chrysocoma, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus coggygria, Diospyros kaki, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia species, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Ligustrum sinense, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc., can be delayed until the end of February to early March for planting; Osmanthus fragrans, Ligustrum lucidum, Sabina virginiana, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis, Pinus thunbergii, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (in-tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively large amounts of nutrients in their bodies, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased, so work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue to be done carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, heating should continue to be provided, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnels or greenhouses; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnels, the straw curtains can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, one must not take it lightly.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, ventilation and air exchange work should continue to be done well, especially by the end of February, when the ventilation and air exchange time can be extended during the period of the day with the highest temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities in the home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea makoyana, Syngonium podophyllum, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum variegatum, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bathroom heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to the relatively low temperature, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so the demand for water is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is extremely easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, the leaves of the plants should frequently be sprayed with water and mist to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases the leaves will lose green color and luster and the flower buds will stop growing, and in severe cases the leaves will shrink and wrinkle and the flower buds will shrivel and fall off. For plants such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Prunus mume, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., bud drop and fruit drop may all occur, and even death may result. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or in-tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina domestica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Citrus microcarpa, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds, and fruits must also be sprayed with water. Only in this way can their leaves be emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. In particular, for tree peonies, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, the branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For purchased Cymbidium orchids cultivated in greenhouse tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse tunnels differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often appear shrunken and withered. Potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., must have their potting soil kept moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although the vast majority of potted flowers need little water in February, inspection should be strengthened, especially during several consecutive days of continuous temperature rise, when supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in a timely manner.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be carried out in a timely manner, especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs. Around noon on clear days, leaf spraying should also be appropriately given to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward and affecting the recovery of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Pericallis hybrida, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne odora, Prunus mume, European narcissus, Hyacinthus, Tulipa, Schlumbergera truncata, Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Aechmea, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia miniata, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and tree-stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, etc., because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, root rot and plant death can easily be caused.

    4. Pruning. In February, for field-planted or potted Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, heavy renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have already flowered, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to encourage more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree-stump bonsai types mainly pruned for shape, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ficus microcarpa, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Xylosma japonicum, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Elaeagnus pungens, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Serissa japonica, Juniperus formosana, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. By the end of February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. In late February, flower species that can be repotted include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum dichotomum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia hybrida, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas revoluta, Clivia miniata, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera truncata, Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Hippeastrum, Asparagus setaceus, Chlorophytum, Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera octophylla, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia reginae, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted Pericallis hybrida in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on the leaves of Primula, etc., at the initial stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to spray, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, leaf fertilizer such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped being sprayed on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so fertilizer sprayed on the plant leaves is difficult to absorb and, on the contrary, tends to breed mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases can form unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai' and Fortunella margarita), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After the aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, the sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as pink tamarisk scale, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or killed by spraying 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flowerpot.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a concentrated manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat, inject clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun. After it is fully dried, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be broadcast in flowerpots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on a balcony, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, garden plots that have not yet been plowed can continue to be turned over. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, trenches can then be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    In February, plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring include Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus formosana, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Sabina procumbens, Pinus parviflora, Pinus hwangshanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Adina rubella, Caragana sinica, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to re-train and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, the metal wire or non-metal wire should first be removed, and new binding material should be replaced for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing losses that should not occur.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Field-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Field-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, Ginkgo biloba, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum plicatum, Diospyros kaki, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron chinense, Prunus mume, Rosa chinensis, Ficus carica, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, tree peony, Punica granatum, Wisteria sinensis, Prunus serrulata, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina domestica, Acer palmatum, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Phoenix canariensis, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as Trachycarpus fortunei, Photinia, Aucuba japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina virginiana, Cedrus deodara, Chimonanthus praecox, Musa basjoo, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, or moisture in your courtyard, when choosing field-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: First, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be suited to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, and a large courtyard can plant a few more; fifth, the height of grown large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that may cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as Ginkgo biloba, Japanese fir, Osmanthus fragrans, Prunus mume, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many species of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for field planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, Antirrhinum, ornamental kale, Viola tricolor, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Gomphrena globosa, step-high, Tagetes erecta, Alcea rosea, Impatiens, Lupinus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Papaver rhoeas, Zephyranthes candida, Dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: Ophiopogon japonicus, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris radiata, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra elatior, Iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species with relatively meticulous management requirements, such as Prunus mume, Aglaia odorata, Camellia japonica, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Chimonanthus praecox, Belgian azalea, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Roystonea regia, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia crenata, Bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum species (commonly known as peace tree), Zantedeschia aethiopica, Primula, Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium andraeanum, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Begonia elatior, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia reginae, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia miniata, Epipremnum aureum, Fittonia, Codiaeum variegatum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Tulipa, Hyacinthus, Calceolaria, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Mascarena lagenicaulis, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can plant and grow some types with relatively extensive management requirements, such as Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, Chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Serissa japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Cactaceae, Asparagus setaceus, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Schefflera octophylla, Pilea cadierei, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, large thorn, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron pulchrum, Ficus microcarpa, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. In March, courtyard flower species that can be sown include: Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Acer palmatum, Liriodendron chinense. The seeds of the latter five species all need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised as seedlings after sand stratification to promote germination include: Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Livistona chinensis, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia species, Osmanthus fragrans, Aesculus chinensis, Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Punica granatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Primula obconica, Malva species, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia reginae, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown in plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Portulacaria afra, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea macrophylla, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Salix leucopithecia, Hypericum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Punica granatum, Ficus carica, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Sabina chinensis, Daphne odora, Pyracantha, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should preferably be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora 'Pentaphylla', Nishiki pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate Prunus mume, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus praecox as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scion branches of excellent Chimonanthus praecox varieties, carry out cut grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; using Hylocereus trigonus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Schlumbergera truncata and various cactus ball types, preferably carried out in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia japonica, Prunus serrulata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Acer palmatum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum plicatum, Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. In March, flower species that can be propagated by division include: orchids, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Cycas revoluta, Nandina domestica, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria trifasciata, Oxalis triangularis, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet, Dahlia, Strelitzia reginae, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of field-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and field planting courtyard flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, the branches and leaves should be pruned somewhat to reduce transpiration and increase the survival rate; transplanting of Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus chinensis, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, Prunus serrulata, etc. is all right even after sprouting, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, they should be dug with a good and sufficient soil ball; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For field-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of their root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, one-year-old branches can be cut at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through heavy renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, which is beneficial for flowering the following year. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, branches that ruin the plant shape can be pruned off, and at the same time some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy can be pruned off. For Punica granatum, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, they should be cut off in time and destroyed, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as Rosa chinensis, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture in time after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of field-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and field planted in March include: Dianthus, Antirrhinum, Calendula officinalis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Malva, Liriope spicata var. variegata, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes rosea, Iris, Reineckea carnea, ribbon grass, Ophiopogon japonicus, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the previous year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, Viola tricolor, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Pyracantha, Pinus parviflora, Nandina domestica, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma japonicum, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be carried out before they sprout and leaf out, replacing them with loose, fertile, fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, laying a foundation for growth in spring and summer. For Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia reginae, Cycas revoluta, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia japonica, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Clivia miniata, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In regions north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be given equal attention. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March work on heat preservation and cold protection must still continue; in late March, the doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ficus elastica, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can gradually receive hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding the influence of too-early sprouting on growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers in regions north of the Yellow River, work on heat preservation and cold protection still needs to continue this month, and one must not take it lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Codiaeum variegatum, Asparagus setaceus, and Begonia species, combine with repotting and carry out necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves, etc. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Pinus hwangshanensis, Pinus thunbergii, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma japonicum, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before sprouting, to further improve their shape. For Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, ornamental peach, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, etc., heavy renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban resident to own a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all of them to live on the first floor and have a relatively good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow and keep some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains relatively much sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes and transpire very little water, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas revoluta, Cactaceae (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus peruvianus, Crassula muscosa, Echinocactus grusonii, Trichocereus grandiflorus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus flagelliformis, Euphorbia tirucalli), Portulacaria afra, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Pereskia, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, etc. There are also Chimonanthus praecox, Jasminum nudiflorum, Lycoris radiata, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema modestum, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight exposure and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of abnormally high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony (especially high-floor balcony) potted cultivation, such as Punica granatum, Rosa chinensis, Ficus microcarpa, stick orchid, Ligustrum quihoui, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia thea, Xylosma japonicum, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Juniperus formosana, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Vitex negundo, Euonymus oxyphyllus, longevity peach, Portulaca grandiflora, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Pinus parviflora, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra elatior, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Camellia japonica, Schefflera octophylla, Araucaria heterophylla, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-layer balcony potted plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Tagetes erecta, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised as seedlings in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus setaceus or Clivia miniata seeds are collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum chrysocardium, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Euphorbia tirucalli, Crassula muscosa, etc. can be cuttings indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting substrate, and at a relatively good light location by an indoor windowsill, carry out cutting propagation of Gardenia jasminoides, Fuchsia hybrida, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Rosa chinensis 'Pomegranate', Chaenomeles speciosa, Nandina domestica, Daphne odora, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot mouth should be well covered with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting Pinus parviflora, Nishiki pine, Prunus mume, longevity peach, Acer palmatum, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., bagging for moisture retention should be carried out, otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as Chimonanthus praecox, Ilex cornuta, Ilex, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ligustrum quihoui, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be carried out; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For Prunus mume, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chimonanthus praecox, longevity peach, Camellia japonica, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape, and a comprehensive cleanup of the plants should be carried out, cutting off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases and destroying them; for dry and cracked cut surfaces on tree stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) supported above. Using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool, in summer some flowers that relatively prefer humid air can be placed on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum 'Pixie', Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare the potting soil for repotting, and prepare enough various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid air flow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the harm of snow and frost. By after Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai Rivers, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, the flower work includes the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome hassleriana, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia argentea, Amaranthus tricolor, Portulaca grandiflora, Dahlia pinnata, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens, Ipomoea, Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit sloteri, Nicotiana tabacum, dwarf petunia, Callistephus chinensis, Coreopsis drummondii, Coreopsis tinctoria, Tagetes erecta, red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia elegans, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus coccineus, Euphorbia heterophylla, Ocimum basilicum, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos bipinnatus, Adenophora, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrical, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia, Michelia multiflora, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia omeiensis, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron chinense hybrid, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, Sciadopitys verticillata, Araucaria heterophylla, Pseudolarix amabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Albizia julibrissin, Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Sapium sebiferum, Koelreuteria bipinnata, Sapindus mukorossi, Liquidambar formosana, Acer species, Ormosia hosiei, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Lycium chinense, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown freshly after collection in April include: Gerbera jamesonii, Asparagus setaceus, Primula, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Fatsia japonica, and Solanum mammosum, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its fruits, which have turned black and become soft with a whitish bloom, picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, and then sown on fertile seedling beds. The seeds can also first be stratified in sand until they crack and show white, and then sown, covered with grass for moisture retention. Generally after two weeks, after about 70% of the seeds have emerged, the covering grass should be removed in time, and a shade shelter should be set up at the same time; for cultivating Solanum mammosum, the skin of the picked golden-yellow fruits can be peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, transplanting can be carried out. They can either be potted for fruit viewing or field planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

In April, flower and tree species that can be grafted include: Chimonanthus praecox, Sophora japonica var. pendula, ornamental peach, longevity peach, Robinia hispida, as well as cactus balls and Schlumbergera truncata, etc.

    3. Division

In April, greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division include: Spathiphyllum, Sansevieria trifasciata, Aspidistra elatior, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, Chlorophytum, Agave, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Maranta species, Aloe, Peperomia species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by division include: Iris, Deutzia scabra, Hosta, Anemone, Oxalis, Canna, Dahlia, Hemerocallis, Chrysanthemum, Musa basjoo, etc.; flower species that can be propagated by division include: Dahlia, Anemone, Alstroemeria, Hosta, Oxalis, Canna, Dahlia, Hemerocallis, Chrysanthemum, Musa basjoo, etc.

[page]    4. Cuttings

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can all be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus) species, mahonia (Mahonia) species, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), cypress species, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea, Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), Chaenomeles speciosa, and so on.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much of the old soil is broken away and the root system is not excessively trimmed back, repotting can be done in April. However, it should be pointed out that for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom (Prunus mume), repotting must absolutely not be done after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting open-ground flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can all be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees and shrubs, such as camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Michelia species, and white orchid (Michelia alba), a portion of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration of water from the canopy. For deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant them before their leaves unfold, such as white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia), crabapple species, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), ornamental peach, plum, apricot, and so on. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted plant. Only in this way, without damaging the soil ball, can the transplanted plant be free from worries.

III. Bonsai Shaping

April is one of the best periods for bonsai shaping. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice shaping are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese cypress (Cupressus funebris), serissa (Serissa japonica), water poplar (Geum japonicum), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), velvet cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), flower cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), box-leaved euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), and so on. Other species suitable for shaping in April include wild hawthorn (Crataegus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), firethorn (Pyracantha), red machilus (Machilus thunbergii), Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), oak (Quercus), galo wood, golden bullet tree, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), papaya (Chaenomeles), Elaeagnus, holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), and so on.

As the bonsai plants begin their vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in a timely manner to continuously wire, guide and correct them, so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora) bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, timely bud removal. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle-leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle-leaf bundle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on the new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of the new shoots and male cones located at the base of the new shoots, to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the time the new shoots begin to elongate, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, and spraying instead of watering, to ensure that the newly grown needles are short and clustered, keeping the branch pads flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), rhododendron (Rhododendron), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia, Daphne, kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, and so on, because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after the warmth of spring, a topdressing of primarily nitrogen-based fertilizer is needed, such as well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote their growth. For potted flower species about to bloom, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), and so on, topdressing should likewise be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate (KH2PO4) etc., with the concentration controlled at around 0.2%. For open-ground white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Michelia species, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), crabapple, and so on, after the flowers fade, topdressing should also be applied in a timely manner to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a shady place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks of 3, 5, or 7 odd-numbered plants into a braid. After braiding, press down with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot to plant them. The money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime-sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Ornamental Fruit Potted Plants

For potted ornamental fruit flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya (Chaenomeles), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), firethorn (Pyracantha), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), and so on, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization, so that they can set fruit normally, and the opportunity must not be missed.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for their callusing and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across our country. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is much continuous spring rain. By the time the spring rain ends around Xiaoman (Grain Buds), the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a crucial period for growing and caring for flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. Flower care in May, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

The flower and flowering tree species that can be sown immediately upon harvest in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Mahonia bealei, loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), and so on. Sowing and raising seedlings in May should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in bed moisture that cause seeds to "sprout back". Third, after seedlings emerge, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up shade, to avoid scorching the young seedlings.

For osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), ripe blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and then stored in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack open and the tip of the radicle is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them, and the sand should be kept moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm is appropriate.

    2. Cuttings

The flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Coleus), begonia species, sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), rhododendron (Rhododendron), dahlia, fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), coral flower (Jatropha multifida), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), geranium (Pelargonium), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium (Tropaeolum), white jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), kerria (Kerria japonica), pomegranate, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), butterfly bush (Buddleja), trumpet vine (Campsis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), epiphyllum (Epiphyllum), Monstera, orchid cactus (Epiphyllum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), gem flower (Graptopetalum), Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), Magnolia biondii, Chaenomeles speciosa, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), lantana (Lantana camara), red-backed euphorbia (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-bracted flower (Pachystachys lutea), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), cordyline (Cordyline), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Schefflera, oleander species, firethorn (Pyracantha), mahonia (Mahonia), and Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) seedlings or cutting plants for side grafting to propagate white orchid (Michelia alba) and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), feather maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy rhododendron cutting plants for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Artemisia annua as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or potted rootstocks can be used for side grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular stem (Hylocereus undatus) can be used as rootstocks for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    4. Layering

The flowering tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid (Michelia alba), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia odorata, Western azalea, camellia (Camellia japonica), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Michelia figo, red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), and so on. Those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), trumpet vine (Campsis), and so on.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and planted in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa) (white), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), Kochia scoparia, marigold (Tagetes erecta), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), asparagus fern (Asparagus), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Coleus), begonia, and so on.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) flowers have faded and just before buds sprout and leaves unfold, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and transplant easily can also be transplanted with a soil ball and planted in early May, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), pomegranate, silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), and so on.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. Besides noting the combination of root watering and foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water directly treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a water tank or small vat, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower species suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom (Prunus mume), rhododendron (Rhododendron), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Daphne, clivia (Clivia miniata), chrysanthemum, crabapple species, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), and so on. Foliage species include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red (green) gem, green giant (Philodendron), green emperor (Philodendron), Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Schefflera, and so on. Ornamental fruit species include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), firethorn (Pyracantha), kumquat (Fortunella), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), coralberry (Ardisia crenata), and so on.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For the shortening prune of white orchid (Michelia alba) not long after being moved out, special attention should be paid to the fact that because its branch pith is loose, the cut surface easily loses water and dries out and extends downward. For this reason, one should consider making the cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and must absolutely not cut too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), after flowering, prune by moderately lowering 10 to 20 cm, so that the bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can develop flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal; generally it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud position, otherwise the wound will dry out and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis) potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade shed or under tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant (Philodendron), red (green) gem, green emperor (Philodendron), pink lady leaf, fan palm (Livistona), Syngonium, orchids, rhododendron (Rhododendron), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, and so on. For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), and so on. Bonsai plants, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), water poplar (Geum japonicum), oak (Quercus), serissa (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), soft pine, and so on, require full light; while Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red machilus (Machilus thunbergii), Chinese cypress (Cupressus funebris), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), and so on can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia (Camellia japonica), rhododendron (Rhododendron), Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom (Prunus mume), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Daphne, clivia (Clivia miniata), orchids, crabapple, and so on: after the flowers fade, remove the spent flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer primarily of nitrogen with phosphorus as a supplement, once every half month, to restore their vegetative growth while laying a foundation for them to develop flower buds again. For foliage-oriented species, such as rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Monstera deliciosa, green giant (Philodendron), red (green) gem, green emperor (Philodendron), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra, ferns, and so on, apply a well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots and patterns, such as golden-edged snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii'), colorful bromeliad, golden-hearted Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Caladium, white-butterfly Syngonium, pink lady leaf, and so on, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar topdressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Rosa multiflora, and roses, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them. For citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, leaf-eating pests that commonly appear on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), kumquat (Fortunella), golden bean, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, and rue, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

The ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be shaped in May include: plum blossom (Prunus mume), small-leaved gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), serissa (Serissa japonica), Chinese cypress (Cupressus funebris), water poplar (Geum japonicum), galo wood, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), and so on. It is worth noting that when shaping, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and structure of the branches and trunks, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huaihe River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, the plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers and plants that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, and for the vast majority of bonsai, care should be taken especially to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or rampant growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts shaping or affects the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. Flower care in June, from south to north, mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    The flowering tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose (Primula), lotus seeds, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and so on. For wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), when the urn-shaped fruit capsules on the mother tree turn from green to yellow, and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule and release the seeds. First soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds have absorbed enough water and expanded, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack open and show white, at which point sow them in furrows. The soil covering thickness is generally 2 to 3 cm, covered with rice straw to retain moisture. After most of the seeds' cotyledons emerge from the soil, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages, and promptly set up shade.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowering trees and shrubs. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly with hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), Michelia figo, holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), lilac (Syringa), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball (Viburnum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), coral tree (Erythrina), Belgian azalea, Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) (with aerial roots), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), and so on. The other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood (Buxus) species, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha), Forsythia, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Jasminum officinale, serissa (Serissa japonica), pomegranate, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), broom (Caragana), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), lantana (Lantana camara), kerria (Kerria japonica), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), trumpet vine (Campsis), red-backed euphorbia (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), cordyline (Cordyline), Hypericum, Hypericum, golden silk willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), Ardisia crenata, paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Weigela, Weigela, snowflake (Spiraea), peach coral species, Schefflera species, mahonia (Mahonia) species, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), and so on. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-clawed golden dragon (Ipomoea), ground ivy species, nasturtium (Tropaeolum), Phlox, Qianqiu tea, heliotrope (Heliotropium), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), geranium (Pelargonium), coleus (Coleus), begonia species, pansy (Viola), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), and so on.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia (Camellia japonica) and osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the softwood of osmanthus and camellia is semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in a 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, and then inserted into the seedling bed. The insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a plant-to-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches over the seedling bed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at around 30 degrees C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally, after one month the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet varieties; use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstocks to graft white orchid (Michelia alba), Michelia figo, and so on. Bud grafting: use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties by grafting; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, and so on as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach (Prunus persica), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), and so on; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstocks for grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), feather maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), red maple, and so on. Branch grafting: use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), or single-petaled seedling camellia seedlings as rootstocks for branch grafting of camellia (Camellia japonica) and Camellia sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy rhododendrons as rootstocks for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    The flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron (Rhododendron), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), snowball (Viburnum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Weigela, oleander, osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), camellia (Camellia japonica), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), lilac (Syringa), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), Aglaia odorata, chloranthus (Chloranthus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), and so on.

    5. Division

    The flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) (after flowering), Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Acorus species, golden-edged lilyturf (Liriope), and so on.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Planting

    1. Seed Collection

    The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus (Dianthus chinensis), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), primrose (Primula), calceolaria (Calceolaria), amaryllis (Hippeastrum) (sow immediately upon harvest), and so on.

    Flowering tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the released seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring before sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate. Peach, apricot, and so on should be sown immediately upon harvest, or their seeds stored in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo, and when they germinate, select a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Planting, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting and planting or potting. They are: evening primrose (Oenothera), spider flower (Cleome), impatiens (Impatiens), Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), primrose (Primula), ornamental pepper (Capsicum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), red-clothed tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia (Petunia), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), red-green grass (Alternanthera), and so on.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Mahonia bealei, mahonia (Mahonia), Hypericum, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-edged privet (Ligustrum), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), boxwood (Buxus) species, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, water spraying and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 AM or 5 PM; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature, the water used for irrigation should be kept basically consistent with the temperature of the potting soil. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will cause the root system and leaves of potted flowers to be stimulated, thereby affecting their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. When there are several days without rain, besides watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers, to increase the humidity of the local space. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness or moisture of the potting soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones include: red wood sorrel (Oxalis), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), begonia species, and so on. When the temperature reaches above 30 degrees C, because their growth activity is very weak and their metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, keeping the potting soil moist is sufficient. Deep-dormant species include: cyclamen (Cyclamen), Lycoris (Lycoris) species, Ranunculus, Dutch peony, and so on. Under high temperatures, they show withered above-ground stems and leaves and dead underground nutrient fibrous roots, overwintering the summer in a dormant state in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped for them, move them to a cool place, and keep the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rain, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil, to avoid causing root rot in the plants. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Syngonium, Calathea species, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Aspidistra, green giant (Philodendron), red (green) gem, green emperor (Philodendron), green queen, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), anthurium (Anthurium), red-backed euphorbia (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), money tree (Pachira aquatica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), plum blossom (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, Daphne, rhododendron (Rhododendron), fragrant osmanthus, lantana (Lantana camara), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon, kumquat (Fortunella), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), firethorn (Pyracantha), and so on, apply a well-rotted dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruit setting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for those succulent flower species, such as jade plant (Crassula ovata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail, Lampranthus, Stapelia, sedum species, when the temperature reaches above 35 degrees C, fertilization should be stopped, to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese cypress (Cupressus funebris), water poplar (Geum japonicum), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), snow willow, tamarisk (Tamarix), firethorn (Pyracantha), and so on, branches that affect the shape should be pruned or shortened as early as possible. This can keep the plant with clear layers and a good appearance, and can promote it to produce more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), and Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), spent flowers and withered stems should be promptly removed, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately shortened, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid (Michelia alba), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), rhododendron (Rhododendron), camellia (Camellia japonica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom (Prunus mume), crabapple, and so on, in order to promote the formation of a good plant shape, more flower buds, more flowers, and good flowers in the current year or the following year, overly vigorous branches should be pinched and buds removed, inhibiting the growth of the main and lateral shoots and promoting the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as hosta (Hosta), purple hosta, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron (Rhododendron), chloranthus (Chloranthus), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids, rhapis palm (Rhapis excelsa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink lady leaf, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Peperomia, green giant (Philodendron), red (green) gem, green emperor (Philodendron), red queen, fan palm (Livistona), Daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), and so on. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria (Wisteria), firethorn (Pyracantha), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), serissa (Serissa japonica), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), peach blossom, plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), water poplar (Geum japonicum), oak (Quercus), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Jin pine, white orchid (Michelia alba), Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), mahonia (Mahonia), grape, and so on. Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), bamboo-leaf pine (Podocarpus nagia), and so on can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), Chinese cypress (Cupressus funebris), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), papaya (Chaenomeles), firethorn (Pyracantha), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), crabapple species, and so on are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and should be promptly controlled by using poisonous plugs to block them.

(2) Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Rosa multiflora, roses, and so on are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid (Michelia alba), plum blossom (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and so on are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon, kumquat (Fortunella), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), and so on have tender leaves prone to being eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and pesticides such as contact insecticides and stomach poisons can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Shaping

The plant species that can be shaped in June are mainly some woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Elaeagnus, Huashan pine (Pinus armandii), Chinese cypress (Cupressus funebris), Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), Malus spectabilis, plum blossom (Prunus mume), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), serissa (Serissa japonica), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), box-leaved euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), tamarisk (Tamarix), water poplar (Geum japonicum), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), snow willow, firethorn (Pyracantha), and so on. Shaping in June must be careful, with gentle wiring and slow tying, and one must absolutely not rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Mangzhong (Grain in Ear); June 21, Xiazhi (Summer Solstice).

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 is the first day of the dog days, and August 15 is the last day of the dog days. Most regions of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most regions of our country is above 24 degrees C, and 28 degrees C in regions south of the Jianghuai. Only in northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20 degrees C. Flower care management in July mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    The herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), Primula obconica, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), campanula (Campanula), and so on. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, ripe fruits of plum, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), and so on can also be picked. After washing off the flesh, sow them immediately in furrows, or store the washed drupes in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) seeds can be sown immediately upon harvest, or the seeds released from the fruit capsules can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    The herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia species, coleus (Coleus), Pilea, scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), geranium (Pelargonium), Dutch aster, purple loosestrife (Lythrum), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), coral flower (Jatropha multifida), pepper grass (Peperomia), Monstera, Polygonum, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and so on.
    The woody flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-backed euphorbia (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), Hypericum, Hypericum, Weigela, hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Weigela, snowflake (Spiraea), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), Daphne, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha), Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Aglaia odorata, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), Schefflera, mahonia (Mahonia), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), firethorn (Pyracantha), cordyline (Cordyline), hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), serissa (Serissa japonica), Michelia figo, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), Viburnum macrocephalum, boxwood (Buxus) species, fig, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), rhododendron species, camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden silk willow, and so on. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees and shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), oleander, Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), fig, pomegranate, fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), and so on. To use the water cutting method to propagate flowering trees and shrubs: First, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 to 2 cm thick, and after punching holes, use it as fixing material for the cuttings. Second, keep the water used for cuttings clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be put in for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedling mountain peach or peach can be used as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom (Prunus mume), flowering almond (Prunus triloba), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), beauty plum, and so on. Use cutting plants of wild rose (Rosa multiflora), Rosa multiflora, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, roses, and so on. Use potted purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora) and white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) seedlings as rootstocks for side grafting to propagate white orchid (Michelia alba), Michelia figo, and so on. Use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) as rootstock for side grafting to propagate superior wintersweet varieties. Also, 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 to 4 cm from the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be determined whether they have survived. Use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy rhododendrons as rootstocks for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea. Use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior flowering cherry varieties. Use current-year seedling of Siberian crabapple, Hubei crabapple, Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), or crabapple as rootstock, and carry out "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple species. Use green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings as rootstock, and bagged grafting to propagate red maple (Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum'), feather maple (Acer palmatum 'Dissectum'), and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    The flowering tree species that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), trumpet vine (Campsis), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), oleander, Weigela, broom (Caragana), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus), climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), and so on.
    5. Division
    The ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta (Hosta), purple hosta, Acorus species, umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), Aspidistra, purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), lilyturf (Liriope) species, Reineckea, Zephyranthes, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), iris, Tradescantia, and so on. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting and Planting
    1. Seed Collection
    The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), morning glory (Ipomoea), baby's breath (Gypsophila), petunia (Petunia), phlox (Phlox), foxglove (Digitalis), snake's head chrysanthemum (Coreopsis), sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus), daisy (Bellis perennis), delphinium (Delphinium), pansy (Viola), Lampranthus, and so on.
    The flowering tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), and so on.
    2. Transplanting, Planting, and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers displayed during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings or cutting plants, and after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom exactly during National Day, for use as holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), small dahlia, Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), Kochia scoparia, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), and so on.
    In July, tree transplanting is generally not carried out, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with a soil ball is also feasible, such as mahonia (Mahonia), Hypericum, golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), dragon juniper ball (Sabina chinensis), and so on. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade must be set up in a timely manner, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management, and one must absolutely not be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel (Oxalis), geranium species, fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), begonia species, sedum, Kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia, Stapelia, string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), Senecio, Daphne, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Portulacaria afra, aloe, and so on, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation, to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily leads to root rot in the plants and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter deep dormancy at high temperatures, such as Cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, and Dicentra spectabilis, show withered above-ground stems and leaves in July, with the underground nutrient fibrous roots dying off, surviving the summer as underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil. For flowers in deep dormancy, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and simply keep the potting soil from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants such as Cycas revoluta, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Araucaria cunninghamii, Maranta species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, giant green, green emperor, green queen, pink fairy leaf, Brazilian iron, money tree, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, Bauhinia, Wisteria, Chinese rose, and so on, not only should you increase the amount and frequency of watering, but you should also appropriately spray water on the leaves, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous overcast days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, you should likewise give both watering and spraying, and must not be negligent. Once you find that the potting soil is too dry and the leaves have wilted, first spray water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Never pour water forcefully at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause the plant to die.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is its flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward, to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is preferable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain; if water accumulates in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants that should have their fertilization management strengthened. First are species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, and so on; second are species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, and so on; third are species for winter flower and fruit viewing, such as bitter orange, Nandina domestica, Chimonanthus praecox, Rhododendron, and so on; fourth are foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Ficus elastica, and so on. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, besides applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to satisfy the plant's comprehensive demand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for bud formation, flowering, and fruit setting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, applying thin liquid fertilizer by watering is preferable.
    In July, the herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened include: Salvia splendens (white, purple, pink), Celosia cristata, Callistephus chinensis, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, chrysanthemum, Rudbeckia hirta, Petunia hybrida, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, Tagetes erecta, Mirabilis jalapa, dragon's mouth flower, and so on. Woody flowers include: Lagerstroemia indica, pomegranate, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Michelia figo, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Cestrum nocturnum, Chinese rose, begonia species, Brunfelsia, Bougainvillea, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Chimonanthus praecox, Hibiscus syriacus, Hibiscus mutabilis, and so on. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Brazilian iron, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria cunninghamii, Syngonium, Maranta, giant green, red gem, Cycas revoluta, Ficus elastica, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, and so on.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped; especially for succulent ornamental plants such as Sedum species, Senecio ficoides, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia species, and so on, fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching refers to directly removing the young terminal bud at the tip with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica, Chimonanthus praecox, Pyracantha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia viridissima, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Lagerstroemia indica, Serissa japonica, Murraya paniculata, and so on. Pruning refers to using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot, promoting the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that they form beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca'.
For those potted flower species that continue blooming over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, and so on, their spent flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have already flowered should be appropriately cut back, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. As for Rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, begonia, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, and so on, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be cut back, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade shed, to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Monstera deliciosa, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchid species, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, red (green) gem, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, pink fairy leaf, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Maranta species, Reineckea carnea, and so on.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha, Jasminum sambac, Serissa japonica, Cycas revoluta, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach blossom, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, and so on. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, Asparagus setaceus, Rhapis humilis, Pinus parviflora, and so on, appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because this month's temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry, besides giving necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand; this can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface, and is also beneficial for protecting the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
For air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as Ficus elastica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia fortunei, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria cunninghamii, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Livistona chinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis, bromeliads, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera arboricola, Aspidistra elatior, Aucuba japonica, and so on, while it is not advisable to choose Nephrolepis cordifolia, Coleus scutellarioides, giant green, Syngonium, and so on. In addition, in management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets, to prevent the wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf edges to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach blossom, begonia species, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Prunus triloba, and so on, it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding, and methods such as manual digging and killing, injecting systemic insecticides, inserting and plugging poison sticks, and burying carbofuran in the soil can be used for control, which can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, avoid dimethoate, omethoate, and so on, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the box tree pyralid that harms Buxus sinica, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens; when this pest outbreak is severe, it can completely chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue; promptly spray stomach-poison pesticides to kill them.
(5) For the Chinese wax insect that harms Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum quihoui, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period, and the right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the Chinese wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest that harms Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, Camellia japonica, red-leaf plum, Cedrus deodara, and so on; in severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and the plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after damage and are not easy to heal and recover, so most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance for wiring, and the plants are required to be those potted in spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: Jasminum nudiflorum, Ginkgo biloba, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii, Buxus sinica, Adina rubella, and so on.
    In July, plant shaping should be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and one must not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering their survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual: Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August has high temperature, strong light, and low humidity, and is the second-highest high-temperature dry-hot period of the year after July, with the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Araucaria cunninghamii, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Pinus armandii, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Fagraea ceilANICA, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Lantana camara, Erythrina variegata, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Nerium oleander, Washingtonia filifera, Trachycarpus fortunei, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Chinese rose, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: Impatiens balsamina, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Salvia splendens, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Begonia coccinea, dragon's mouth flower, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Phlox drummondii, Capsicum annuum, Eschscholzia californica, Celosia cristata, Calendula officinalis, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Mirabilis jalapa, Zinnia elegans, and so on. In addition there are also Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Aglaonema commutatum, and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Calycanthus chinensis, Calycanthus floridus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and so on; they can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Phoenix canariensis can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranates are harvested after they mature and split open; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, and then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Gypsophila, Verbena, Petunia hybrida, Antirrhinum majus, Echinacea purpurea, Oxalis species, Achillea millefolium, Tropaeolum majus, Chrysanthemum cinerariifolium, and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, Cyclamen, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens, Primula obconica, Coleus scutellarioides, Calendula officinalis, and so on.
2. Cuttage. Using alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand mixed in a 2:1 ratio as the mixed substrate, carry out moisture-retaining bed cutting or pot cutting, and the following flower and tree species can be propagated: Pyracantha, Mahonia species, Chimonanthus praecox, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea, Erythrina variegata, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Ficus elastica, Ligustrum sinense, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliflora, and so on. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, and so on as the substrate, one can cut Buxus species, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, fig, Nerium oleander, Lagerstroemia indica, Serissa japonica, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, Gardenia jasminoides, and so on. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, and so on can also be cut this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and cleft-graft Osmanthus fragrans; use Magnolia liliflora and Michelia alba as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliflora as the rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use the current-year seedling of wild peach as the rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, and so on; use cherry seedling as the rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use Rosa multiflora, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and so on as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, and so on as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis, Malus halliana; use Acer palmatum as the rootstock and top-graft red maple, lace-leaf maple; use single-trunk Ficus elastica as the rootstock and cleft-graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petal camellia as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of Camellia japonica; use seedling Chimonanthus praecox as the rootstock and cleft-graft or side-graft superior varieties of Chimonanthus praecox flowers. In addition, cleft grafting can also be used to propagate large-flowered Wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: Lonicera japonica, Campsis grandiflora, Rosa banksiae, climbing Chinese rose, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Nerium oleander, Gardenia jasminoides, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, Osmanthus species, Magnolia liliflora, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, Ficus elastica (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, Iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aglaonema commutatum, Maranta species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and so on. In addition, Lycoris radiata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Freesia, and so on can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with a large soil ball and supplemented by heavy pruning, strengthening management such as shading, watering, and spraying after transplanting can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia fortunei, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, Rhododendron, Gardenia jasminoides, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis ball, Sabina komarovii ball, Buxus ball, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Aucuba japonica, French holly, and so on. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Celosia cristata, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, and so on, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for the roadside hedges in the courtyard such as Buxus, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, and so on, pruning should continue to be given. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Sabina komarovii, Myrica rubra, Pyracantha, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, holly, and so on, pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, Lantana camara, and so on, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be appropriately cut back. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, and so on, tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and established herbaceous flowers, watering and spraying management should be strengthened; for plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet, ensuring that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves; spray more and water cautiously, ensuring that the roots do not accumulate water.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered Loropetalum, Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Prunus x cistena, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', and so on, in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, apply quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Bougainvillea, Dahlia pinnata, Lantana camara, and so on, as well as species about to bloom, such as Osmanthus fragrans, chrysanthemum, Hibiscus mutabilis, Anemone hupehensis, and so on, promptly apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus praecox, and so on that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed by leaf-surface topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on Cedrus deodara, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Lagerstroemia indica, Photinia, Camellia japonica, and so on, promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For the chrysanthemum tiger and aphids, and so on occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as the rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calycanthus chinensis, and so on. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Paeonia lactiflora, Portulaca grandiflora, Mirabilis jalapa, Phlox drummondii, Eschscholzia californica, Cerastium tomentosum, and so on.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, and so on, water droplets falling on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera jamesonii (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of Clivia miniata also must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, maintaining the potting soil at a slightly moist level, and by spraying water in the small environment around the flower pots, create a relatively cool and moist environment for them.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Ficus elastica, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Araucaria cunninghamii, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Phoenix roebelenii, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota ochlandra, Livistona chinensis, Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, money tree, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Cordyline fruticosa, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (peace tree), Xanthostemon chrysanthus (dragon-phoenix tree), Syngonium, green emperor, green queen, Euphorbia pulcherrima, pink fairy leaf, Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, Fatsia japonica, and so on, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Lagerstroemia indica, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Bougainvillea, Lantana camara, and so on, as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Diospyros armata, fruit pomegranate, Nandina domestica, papaya, and so on, besides ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and so on. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, Callistephus chinensis, chrysanthemum, miniature sunflower, and so on, apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month, ensuring lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn begins. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Osmanthus fragrans, Rhododendron, and so on, apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the leaf surface. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaf surface once with water after fertilizing, to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as Clivia miniata, Begonia semperflorens, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen, Daphne odora, Aloe, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Portulacaria afra, Schlumbergera, Sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, cactus species, cactus ball species, and so on, stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, little angel, Ficus elastica, Dypsis lutescens, giant green, Syngonium, Maranta species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, Epipremnum aureum, green emperor, green queen, orchid species, pink fairy leaf, Peperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Chlorophytum comosum, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia reginula, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, begonia species, Dracaena sanderiana, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta ventricosa, and so on, continue to provide shed shading, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If the number of potted flowers is not large, they can also be moved indoors during the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, and so on. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and so on, cut back after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Attach importance to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Attach importance to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers, and so on.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have long been placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, Chimonanthus praecox, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Chinese rose, Bougainvillea, Agave americana, Lantana camara, Ginkgo biloba, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, and so on. In August, some flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, Cycas revoluta, Alocasia reginula, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, giant green, red (green) gem, Maranta, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, little angel, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Fatsia japonica, and so on.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cutting; the cutting substrate can be rice chaff ash and fine sand mixed in a 2:1 ratio, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be cut include: Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia coccinea, Gardenia jasminoides, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera carnea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, Jasminum sambac, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, and so on; during the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, Pelargonium, Aglaonema modestum, Fuchsia hybrida, and so on.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be done carefully and prudently. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the need of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand bed, place 10 cm thick wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that are relatively fond of moisture on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, little angel, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, and so on; usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for their safe overwintering. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, Fuchsia hybrida, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia reginula, and so on, they can be moved to an air-conditioned room, using spraying instead of watering, ensuring they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, pomegranate, Bougainvillea, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Wisteria, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, Agave americana, Cycas revoluta, and so on, water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilization. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants that are in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or broadcast multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowers and trees mainly for flower and fruit viewing, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, bitter orange, Pyracantha, finger citron, kumquat, and so on, continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, and so on, after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai such as Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, plum blossom, Acer buergerianum, and so on, soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be spread on the pot surface, which can both preserve moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers and trees on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors during the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, small Myrica rubra, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum sinense, Buxus sinica, Pyracantha, and so on, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and they should be promptly sprayed and killed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray and kill with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution

Flower Planting Manual (September Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, the temperature in most parts of China gradually declines, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria cunninghamii, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Cycas revoluta, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Osmanthus fragrans, pomegranate, Ficus elastica, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Hibiscus mutabilis, Yucca elephantipes, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, Plumeria rubra, Mascarena lagenicaulis, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ginkgo biloba, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, palm tree, Chinese rose, Caryota ochlandra, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, Cycas revoluta, Picea species, Schefflera arboricola, Garcinia subelliptica (Clusiaceae), Bambusa ventricosa, Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Cordyline fruticosa, Nandina domestica, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, Salvia splendens, early chrysanthemum, Begonia coccinea, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Dahlia pinnata, dragon's mouth flower, and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Phoenix canariensis, and so on. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing the hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being appropriate, and plastic film or straw should be added to preserve moisture. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for Calycanthus chinensis, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers, and herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Dianthus chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, Viola tricolor, Antirrhinum majus, Petunia hybrida, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris, Verbena hybrida, and so on. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as Cyclamen, Primula, Tropaeolum majus, Pericallis hybrida, Begonia semperflorens, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttage. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cutting in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Fuchsia hybrida, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema strictum, Cyrtanthera carnea, Ficus elastica, Schefflera arboricola, Cordyline fruticosa, and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cutting include: Buxus species, Magnolia liliflora, Hypericum monogynum, Spiraea, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Lagerstroemia indica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Nandina domestica, fig, Nerium oleander, Serissa japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be cut, such as Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, cold chrysanthemum, and so on.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root sections as the rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of wild peach, apricot, and so on as rootstocks and bud-graft Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, and so on; use Acer palmatum seedlings as the rootstock and bag-moisture-retaining cleft-graft red maple, lace-leaf maple, and so on; use Michelia alba seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Michelia alba and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliflora as the rootstock and cleft-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, and so on; use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and cleft-graft Osmanthus fragrans; use potted seedling Chimonanthus praecox as the rootstock and cleft-graft superior varieties of Chimonanthus praecox.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Gardenia jasminoides, Nerium oleander, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Osmanthus fragrans, Magnolia liliflora, Jasminum sambac, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, and so on.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Paeonia lactiflora, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria trifasciata, little angel, multi-headed green emperor, Aglaonema commutatum, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliflora, Liriope platyphylla, Aspidistra elatior, Liriope spicata, and so on. In addition, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa, Freesia, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Lycoris radiata, Scilla peruviana, and so on can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, generally flower and tree transplanting is not carried out in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of bringing a good soil ball. Species such as: Nerium oleander, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Sabina komarovii, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Buxus species, Hypericum monogynum, French holly, red-flowered Loropetalum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', and so on. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthening watering, spraying, and shading management, only then can transplanting be ensured to be foolproof. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established or potted, for viewing in the golden autumn of October. Species include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Cosmos sulphureus, small dahlia, Calendula officinalis, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and so on.
2. Pruning. Continue to prune the vigorously growing, strongly sprouting courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants; this is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: Buxus species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea Nana', and so on. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Sabina chinensis, Sabina komarovii, Buxus, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha, Forsythia viridissima, and so on. Those that can be tip-pruned and pinched among ground-planted herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Cosmos sulphureus, Kochia scoparia, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, and so on. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days, to promote the formation of a full plant shape, and to produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue blooming over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, Lagerstroemia indica, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea, and so on, promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and appropriately cut back the branches that have already flowered, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry, and for trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wrapped around the trunk, creating a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown, reducing leaf transpiration and increasing the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers over time, also do a good job of spraying to preserve moisture.
4. Fertilization. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', red maple, red-flowered Loropetalum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Acalypha wilkesiana, Prunus x cistena, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, and so on, in order to keep their leaf color fresh and beautiful at all times, appropriately apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For ground-planted flowers and trees that continue blooming continuously or are for autumn flower and fruit viewing, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Calamondin, flowering pomegranate, Bougainvillea, Hibiscus mutabilis, chrysanthemum, Canna, Dahlia pinnata, Lantana camara, Nandina domestica, Pyracantha, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, and so on, as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, it is advisable to apply quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and golden osmanthus, and so on that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth that harms Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha, begonia, and so on, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms Lagerstroemia indica, papaya, begonia, poison sticks can be inserted at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew, and so on appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of onset.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, Michelia figo, Magnolia liliflora, Michelia alba, Michelia chapensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, Magnolia grandiflora, and so on. In addition, there are also Aesculus species, Lagerstroemia indica, Syringa, begonia species, Bauhinia, Exochorda racemosa, Taxus chinensis, Chimonanthus nitens, and so on. For Magnoliaceae, as well as Taxus chinensis, Aesculus, begonia species, and so on, the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year after treatment, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: Tagetes erecta, Zinnia elegans, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Celosia cristata, Catharanthus roseus, Helichrysum bracteatum, Callistephus chinensis, and so on; after collection, promptly thresh, and dry-store until the following spring before sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate leaf-surface spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, while supplementing with leaf-surface spraying. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic environments, add a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn begins from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilization. In September, it is exactly the period of vigorous growth for most flowers, and some flower species that were in dormant and semi-dormant states in summer also begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so this month fertilization management should be highly valued. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, money tree, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Araucaria cunninghamii, Caryota ochlandra, Epipremnum aureum, red (green) gem, green emperor, silver queen, Maranta species, Syngonium, Ficus lyrata, and so on, still mainly use low-concentration thin fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution, and so on. For flower and tree species with especially long flowering periods or whose peak flowering period is autumn, such as Chinese rose, three-color lantana, Lantana camara, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, and so on, fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, papaya, Diospyros armata, Callicarpa, fruit pomegranate, and so on, and colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', bromeliads, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Victoriae', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus scutellarioides, and so on, apply fertilizer types balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum, and so on that are resuming growth, resume watering with low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud expansion stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, plum blossom, Michelia figo, Rhododendron, and so on, apply low-concentration fertilizer types with balanced nutrition; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, chrysanthemum, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, miniature sunflower, and so on, apply thin fertilizer once every 10 days, to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard container flowers cannot be relaxed. For shade-loving foliage plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Nephrolepis cordifolia, Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium podosum, Calathea species, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', orchid grass, Dieffenbachia, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra elatior, begonias, Epipremnum pinnatum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, Justicia brandegeeana, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera, Pteris multifida 'Variegata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia picta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo, Adina rubella, black pine, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, crape myrtle, Araucaria heterophylla, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Pyracantha, Chinese rose, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., full sunlight may be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Osmanthus, Epiphyllum, Nandina domestica, jade plant, rhododendrons, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, finger citron, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading may be given around noon. Newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers should also be appropriately shaded to prevent wilting and to avoid affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For container chrysanthemums, continue the work of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, Lantana, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, etc., prune after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum quihoui, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Fraxinus chinensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue pruning or bud pinching. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) appearing on potted plum, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach, etc., poisoned sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Container plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air; only some container flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant container flowering trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Jin pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, ornamental pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Fraxinus chinensis, banyan, Bougainvillea, Chinese rose, Agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha, Lantana, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, Areca palm, Caryota, King coconut, Dracaena, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can continue to be used as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of 1/2 rice husk ash and 1/2 wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Cordyline, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc. Schefflera, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, Aglaonema, etc. can also be water-propagated indoors.
Balcony flower management
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Chloranthus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats over a balcony water basin or water tank, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and normally sprayed with water instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more spraying and less watering should also be done to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or sprayed for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue watering once a day and spraying 1 to 2 times a day, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of wet top and dry bottom in the potting soil. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually recovering from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees mainly for flower and fruit viewing, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, Pyracantha, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced multi-element compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not have an off-odor, especially not a foul odor; when applying, be careful not to splash downstairs and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, prevent soil compaction and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade nets to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, banyan, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Platycladus orientalis (stump), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, leftover flowers and withered stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage; use 25% Omite wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying and killing; for the double-striped fir longhorn beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Sabina chinensis and juniper bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach, etc., continue to insert poisoned sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., when the number is small, they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures in most parts of the country drop, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, white bark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, cycad, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, osmanthus, Hibiscus mutabilis, rubber tree, Schefflera, Ficus variegata, hibiscus, golden larch, Codiaeum variegatum, Brazilian wood, money tree, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus pandurata, Caryota, Areca palm, King coconut, Cordyline, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, desert rose, South American cycad, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, red maple, Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena, Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, dragon's mouth flower, Tagetes patula, marigold, ornamental pepper, cockscomb, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, petunia, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, horse chestnut species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, French holly, Elaeocarpus, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, privet, Ligustrum quihoui, camphor, Weigela, palm, Taxodium ascendens, etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela seeds can be dry-stored until spring sowing, other species can have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand for germination until the seed coats crack and show white in the following spring before sowing. Note that before storage for germination, seeds should be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During storage and germination, seeds should be checked frequently to prevent drying out or mildew. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, Calendula officinalis, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene armeria, Silene vulgaris, California poppy, daisy, Rudbeckia hirta, iris, Verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Gloxinia, petunia, cineraria, Primula obconica, Gerbera, Calceolaria, can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera, night jasmine, Lantana, Pyracantha, Mahonia, finger citron, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline, Michelia, Aucuba, hibiscus, Bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum japonicum 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', gardenia, Weigela, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Chinese rose, Viburnum macrocephalum, crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, oleander, fig, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice husk ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for the cuttings of some southern flowering trees, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, marigold, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia, golden pothos, Pilea, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, Justicia brandegeeana, Chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Jin pine with moisture retention; use peony roots as rootstock to graft excellent peony varieties; use 1-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple, feather maple, etc. with moisture retention; use 1-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft excellent varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; use three-ribbed cactus as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by low layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela, Hydrangea, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'August Gui', snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia liliflora, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Michelia, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, peony, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, double-flowered Kerria japonica, Spiraea, Spiraea, cycad, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, Hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, iris, Belamcanda chinensis, lily of the valley, Aglaonema, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Nephrolepis, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: calla lily, Hippeastrum, freesia, Lycoris, tulip, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, redbud, Prunus triloba, pomegranate, lilac, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia liliflora, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum japonicum 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Siji Gui', gardenia, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, prune back before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and spraying management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, Calendula officinalis, Verbena, Phlox, snapdragon, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, Reineckea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and accuracy, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum japonicum 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum quihoui, etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, Pyracantha, etc. For ground-planted flowering trees that bloom continuously in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Lantana, Bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and moderately prune back the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, marigold, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued flower production and blooming on lateral shoots, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and spraying: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no water accumulation; second, continue to spray water on the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply a balanced quick-acting fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for osmanthus species that have already flowered, open a ring-shaped trench and bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, Hibiscus mutabilis, Camellia japonica, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina, Pyracantha, and southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet, etc. that are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poisoned sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them and burn them. In the north, for thick trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, horse chestnut, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia denudata, manglietia, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium ascendens, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, French holly, camphor, privet, Ligustrum quihoui, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, papaya, cycad, ginkgo, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc.; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, Liriodendron, red maple, Acer palmatum, golden larch, dawn redwood, Cryptomeria japonica, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, redbud, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, small dahlia, marigold, Tagetes patula, China aster, Impatiens, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, strawflower, Cosmos, mountain snow, Euphorbia heterophylla, Mimosa pudica, Codariocalyx motorius, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and replant them in the following spring.

Management of courtyard container flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so container flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium podosum, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, etc., on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day and supplement with foliar spraying; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily, cyclamen, Clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne, Pelargonium, fuchsia, etc., increase the amount of watering. For wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and spray more water to help the flower buds expand. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots and help them survive the winter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cooling, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, Clivia, cyclamen, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing container plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, golden bullet, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podosum, green gem, Boston fern, Peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off dead branches and fallen leaves, diseased and pest branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out severe pruning back; for binding materials that have been shaped for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or retied after untiing, to prevent long-term tight binding at fixed positions from damaging the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to wither and die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species intolerant of low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them uniformly and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf miner larvae, inchworms and other pests.

Container plants suitable for balcony display

    On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air; only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air balcony environment. They are: black pine, Jin pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, Buxus sinica, pomegranate, Bougainvillea, Ficus pandurata, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, cycad, Pyracantha, Lantana, Tamarix chinensis, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern flowering tree species cannot continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon and placed on the balcony at other times, such as Rhapis excelsa, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra elatior, Areca palm, Caryota, King coconut, Dracaena, Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, wide-mouthed large flower pots can continue to be used as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of 1/2 rice husk ash and 1/2 wet sand, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, Aucuba, Michelia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Aglaonema, Justicia carnea, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, hibiscus, finger citron, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', golden pothos, Pelargonium, etc.

Balcony flower management

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as cycad, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by foliar spraying; for species that have already developed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be excessive, and at the same time spray the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the expansion of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline, bird's nest fern, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, pothos, etc., spraying should be the main method and watering supplementary, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species recovering from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, bromeliads, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, Nandina, golden bullet, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., apply 1 to 2 times of thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; especially shallow-pot stump bonsai should receive more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on sunny days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade nets set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, banyan, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Platycladus orientalis (stump), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, privet, Fraxinus chinensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, untie them first; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, change to a new binding position and then do the bending and fixing again, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter; November 7 is the Beginning of Winter, the start of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, when snowfall begins in the Yellow River basin and areas to the north, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects: first, prune and clean ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewash trunks and remove pests, turn the soil and apply base fertilizer; second, effectively do cold and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, Gerbera, Clivia, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum quihoui, privet, camphor, pencil juniper, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, palm, French holly, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added; the main flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', plum blossom (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Chinese rose (referring to easy-rooting varieties such as floribunda rose and Elizabeth), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, holly, Campsis, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus', Pilea, Ligustrum japonicum 'Aureum', gardenia, Hypericum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia, Serissa japonica 'Aureo-marginata', etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow by the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be made of Begonia maculata, Begonia masoniana, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium, hibiscus, fuchsia, jade plant, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored until spring of the following year for cuttings, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple and feather maple indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); use thick branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock and scion wood, and use branches of excellent Chinese rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cutt ing, so that the graft union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be propagated by low layering in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, gardenia, small gardenia, pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, osmanthus, Hydrangea, Magnolia liliflora, Sabina squamata, Michelia, Spiraea cantoniensis, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia, Buddleja, peony, Caragana, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Jasminum, jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo, bamboo, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, Canna, and Canna generalis can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, iris, ornamental bromeliads, Liriope, Reineckea, Zephyranthes, Aglaonema, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, China aster, Tagetes patula, marigold, Hibiscus coccineus, etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress, Japanese false cypress, Japanese hinoki cypress, silk tree, sweetgum, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia, red-osier dogwood, Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, Caragana, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flowering tree species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, Ligustrum quihoui, palm, camphor, pencil juniper, Sapindus mukorossi, wolfberry, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, holly, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha, Photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: Silene armeria, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, Calendula officinalis, ornamental kale, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor, Magnolia grandiflora, silk tree, Sapindus mukorossi, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, Magnolia denudata, osmanthus, red maple, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden, giant redbud, Liriodendron, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be properly pruned back or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter) to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches pruned, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk spraying management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree body.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic tunnels for flower forcing to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic tunnels to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the potting soil moist, not too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary foliar spraying.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Pyracantha, Nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed frequently to help the flower buds expand and grow, and also to make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be sprayed frequently to keep the leaf color green and glossy at all times. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For less cold-tolerant foliage plants, such as Syngonium podosum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Codiaeum variegatum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to too-low water temperature, thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, Calliaspidia guttata, Daphne, cineraria, cyclamen, Chaenomeles speciosa, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, Aechmea, etc., continue to apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, stop topdressing to help them overwinter in normal dormancy. For most ground-planted flowering trees, such as crabapple species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliflora, Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor, Spiraea, osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, Sapindus mukorossi, silk tree, palm, red maple, peony, Forsythia, peony, Hypericum, etc., bury dry cake fertilizer, with a dosage of 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, to lay a material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls and ball-shaped forms that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, apply base fertilizer.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Pyracantha, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., to lay a good framework for growth and shaping next year.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned; for each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 strong 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, carry out severe pruning back of the current year's branches; except for retaining a few coarse branches at 20 cm to 30 cm from the base, cut off all the remaining current year's branches, so as to facilitate more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees in flowerbeds, along sidewalks and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, osmanthus, camphor, plane tree, Magnolia liliflora, Forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, Pyracantha, Pittosporum, crabapple, etc., cut off all irregular branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, diseased and pest branches, etc., and appropriately prune back leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, coarse palm trees can be stripped of their palm fiber, and the trunks cleaned well, so that they show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flowering tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, azalea, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina, Araucaria heterophylla, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Aglaonema, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Caryota, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podosum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aglaia odorata, Codiaeum variegatum, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or double-layer plastic tunnels can be used for overwintering protection.

For relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, crape myrtle, Buxus sinica, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, five-needle pine, Sabina squamata, Sabina chinensis, Acer buergerianum, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses or rooms in November, in addition to ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation to prevent plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, causing flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, also note that plants must not be directly exposed to cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, Camellia japonica, chrysanthemum, etc., collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead trunk and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep decay of the stump xylem.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, cycad, orchid, Camellia japonica, Clivia, Aspidistra elatior), first, wipe them off with a wet cloth; second, spray and kill with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as leaf treasure, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main types of bonsai plants suitable for styling include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), sawara cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa'), procumbent juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Procumbens'), winged spindle tree (Euonymus alatus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), winter hazel (Corylopsis sinensis), Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex spp.), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pearl boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), etc.

For bonsai trunks that have been tied with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November and the trunk and branches re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), water willow (Adina rubella), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), and autumn olive (Elaeagnus pungens), after initial root trimming, trunk cutting and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and carry out styling after new shoots emerge the following year.

After 1 to 2 years of cultivation and styling, tree stumps that have basically taken shape can be repotted in November into suitable containers according to the styling characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, and paired with ornamental stones and moss, ready for indoor display around the Spring Festival.

Well-styled tall Japanese apricot stumps (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc., can be potted in November in suitable containers, with enhanced water management, and can be used the following spring for display in plazas, parks and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent heavy frosts. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, doing a good job of insulating and protecting cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have been moved into greenhouses, plastic tunnels and homes; second, doing a good job of pruning, cleaning up and digging and fertilizing open-ground flowers and trees; third, doing a good job of preparing to compost organic fertilizer and mix growing media.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in the greenhouse in December include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina (Nandina domestica), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), holly species, firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), palm, privet (Ligustrum), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), photinia (Photinia), and Chinese photinia (Photinia davidsoniae), etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-ground cuttings in December include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume) (mainly varieties such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses and miniature roses); red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) (heel cuttings), spiraea (Spiraea), and boxwood species, etc. Among these, Japanese apricot and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil, rose cuttings should use a mixed medium of rice-hull ash and fine sand at 2:1, while other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to retain warmth and moisture.

In the greenhouse, African violet (Saintpaulia ionantha) can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), geranium (Pelargonium), epiphyllum (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), Echeveria, portulacaria (Portulacaria afra), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), wax begonia (Begonia × semperflorens-cultorum), cane begonia (Begonia coccinea), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), lantana (Lantana camara), umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola), winter daphne (Daphne odora), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), etc. Using cold-frame seedbeds, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), hypericum (Hypericum), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), silver bud willow (Salix leucopithecia), and three-pronged maple (Acer buergerianum), etc. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), lilac (Syringa), and grape (Vitis) can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Superior varieties of Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum or peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, use cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant at a certain row spacing in the seedbed, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; take care that water does not seep into the graft union; cover with plastic film to retain warmth and moisture, and remove the film in early spring after the scion buds sprout. Using dug-up wild rose plants, bud-graft superior rose varieties; or use vigorous branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose scions onto the upper end, then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' sections in a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; take care that water does not seep into the graft union; cover with plastic film to retain moisture and warmth; in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the film, and only after it has completely survived should the binding tape at the graft union be cut open with a blade. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to retain moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), camellia (Camellia japonica), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), banana shrub (Michelia figo), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum var. sterile), spiraea (Spiraea), and pomegranate (Punica granatum), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), lilyturf (Reineckea carnea), hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), red wood sorrel (Oxalis articulata), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), cymbidium (Cymbidium faberi), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope muscari), lilyturf (Ophiopogon), lucky bamboo (Rohdea japonica), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), and Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum). When cutting off daughter plants from the base of a large variegated bromeliad, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three to four months; otherwise the colored bands on the separated daughter plants easily disappear, which requires special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina (Nandina domestica), hypericum (Hypericum), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), bonsai broom (Caragana sinica), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), sisal (Agave sisalana), bamboo palm (Bambusa multiplex), and dwarf white-striped bamboo (Pleioblastus fortunei), etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in December are generally those of herbaceous flowers moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), and clivia (Clivia miniata), etc. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be harvested in December mainly include: rose (Rosa), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), holly species, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), and photinia species. After processing, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack open and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: dianthus (Dianthus), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), large-flowered pansy (Viola × wittrockiana), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and daisy (Bellis perennis), etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, and pansy, etc., ready for street display in the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous landscaping trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple species, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia × soulangeana), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple (Acer palmatum), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), and weeping pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), etc. However, transplanting of evergreen trees and flowering shrubs should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet (Ligustrum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), palm, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), azalea (Rhododendron), and holly, etc. When transplanting, first heavily reduce-prune the main shoot and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap with plastic film, and seal the cuts on the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flower and tree species that can be potted in December include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet stumps (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), and hall crabapple (Malus halliana). Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), and pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), etc., continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering cold damage, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus (Asparagus), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), gold-dusted aucuba (Aucuba japonica var. variegata), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), nandina (Nandina domestica), banana shrub (Michelia figo), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), camellia (Camellia japonica), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), cymbidium (Cymbidium faberi), bamboo palm (Bambusa multiplex), dwarf white-striped bamboo (Pleioblastus fortunei), and sago palm (Cycas revoluta), etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), white orchid (Michelia alba), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), ink orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), primrose (Primula), lantana (Lantana camara), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), geranium (Pelargonium), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), etc., they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), peperomia (Peperomia), maranta (Maranta), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), nerve plant (Fittonia), bromeliads, pink-striped dracaena (Dracaena), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), orchid tree (Aglaia odorata), moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), cattleya (Cattleya), dendrobium (Dendrobium), South American cycad (Zamia), red (green) gem (Dracaena), oncidium (Oncidium), and tiger orchid (Cymbidium hookerianum), etc., in well-sealed double-layer tunnels, appropriate heating must also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warm.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), crabapple species, azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwood species, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), red cedar (Juniperus virginiana), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), and Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus), etc., when temperatures are not lower than -10°C, they generally will not suffer cold damage; in especially cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or in homes, bonsai, potted flowers and foliage and fruit ornamental plants must not only maintain a suitable indoor temperature, but also receive ventilation; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon when the temperature is highest during the day, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and homes, keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it is very easy to cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), and European narcissus (Narcissus), and fruit ornamental species such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), four-season mandarin (Citrus), kumquat (Fortunella), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), and nandina (Nandina domestica), etc., not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given to promote flower bud swelling and also increase the vividness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both the potting soil must be kept moist and foliar spraying must be given, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink-striped dracaena (Dracaena), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta (Maranta), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), and silver queen (Aglaonema), when room temperature is already near the lower limit of what they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the best watering time is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and replenish watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon to prevent leaves from drying, shriveling and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most landscaping trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), manglietia (Manglietia), banana shrub species, red maple (Acer palmatum), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palm, peony (Paeonia lactiflora), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), hypericum (Hypericum), grape (Vitis), rose (Rosa), spiraea (Spiraea), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), mock orange (Philadelphus), deutzia (Deutzia), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), nandina (Nandina domestica), lilac (Syringa), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), hypericum (Hypericum), weeping willow (Salix babylonica), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), cypress species, Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), elm-leaf plum (Prunus triloba), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), photinia (Photinia), redbud (Cercis chinensis), and rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), etc., in December while digging the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, etc., to lay a good material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), azalea (Rhododendron), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), bromeliads, winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), clivia (Clivia miniata), tulip (Tulipa), and freesia (Freesia), etc., continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote budding and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November; hedges and green walls such as privet (Ligustrum), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), French green (Ligustrum), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), Sichuan juniper (Sabina chinensis), four-season osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and Chinese photinia (Photinia davidsoniae), etc.; ball-shaped ones such as Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), bayberry (Myrica rubra), photinia (Photinia), boxwood species, pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), etc.; while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as rose (Rosa), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), palm, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), photinia (Photinia), plane tree (Platanus), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the root zone.

For bonsai plant species mainly styled by pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crabapple, and papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants not repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape (Vitis), crabapple species, rose (Rosa rugosa), rose (Rosa), camellia (Camellia japonica), and crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida) and gray mold on primrose (Primula), the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species of flowers and trees in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), camellia (Camellia japonica), and aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), etc., first wipe them once with a rag, then control with pesticides such as profenofos.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as white orchid (Michelia alba), orchid tree (Aglaia odorata), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), rose (Rosa), and Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), etc., tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground cultivated flowers and trees such as pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), plane tree (Platanus), camellia (Camellia japonica), small-leaf privet (Ligustrum quihoui), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), oleander (Nerium oleander), crabapple, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), redbud (Cercis chinensis), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), photinia (Photinia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), etc., various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale, etc.; at this time, spraying with higher-concentration pesticides such as profenofos, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and growing media preparation next year, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc., into water vats or ponds, add water and seal for soaking, composting and fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs and branches in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., with garden soil, pile and compost, and seal for fermentation; it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing growing media next year.

    7. Preparing growing media. Use the winter leisure time to find an empty space or under tree shade and pile up as much growing medium as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice-hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer; the garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Digging and freezing soil. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure and pond mud, etc., can be applied before plowing; do not make beds for now; after overwintering and freezing, in early spring the following year open furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Japanese cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), sawara cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa'), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), shimpaku juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), red pine (Pinus densiflora), water willow (Adina rubella), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex spp.), winged spindle tree (Euonymus alatus), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), bonsai broom (Caragana sinica), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), winter hazel (Corylopsis sinensis), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya crabapple (Chaenomeles cathayensis), boxwood (Buxus sinica), pearl boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus), and Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), etc.

For bonsai plants shaped and fixed with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if they have been fixed for one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed and metal wire or palm rope used again for tying and training.

For ground-planted Japanese apricot stumps (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), crabapple, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), and crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), etc., that have already been styled, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or homes next year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, management must be careful: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from being frozen to death or dying of dryness. They can be placed in a location that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperatures and coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, right around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperatures of the year occur. This month, the most important thing in flower care is doing a good job of insulating and protecting cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc., in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and homes, followed by auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, digging and turning the soil, and preparing growing media.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in the greenhouse in January include: gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), clivia (Clivia miniata), tuberous begonia (Begonia × tuberhybrida), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and African daisy (Gerbera jamesonii), etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open ground include: rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina (Nandina domestica), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), holly, firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), palm, photinia (Photinia), Chinese photinia (Photinia davidsoniae), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), privet (Ligustrum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), and goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-ground or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: Japanese apricot (Prunus mume) (varieties such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), rose (varieties such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda and miniature), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) (with heel), spiraea (Spiraea), boxwood species, pomegranate (Punica granatum), silver bud willow (Salix leucopithecia), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), three-pronged maple (Acer buergerianum), hypericum (Hypericum), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), spiraea (Spiraea), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), and jasmine (Jasminum), etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in the greenhouse include: jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), geranium (Pelargonium), fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), African violet (Saintpaulia ionantha) (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), jade plant (Crassula ovata), jade leaf (Crassula), jade tree (Crassula arborescens), Echeveria, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), epiphyllum (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), clearweed (Pilea cadierei), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), umbrella tree (Schefflera arboricola), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), winter daphne (Daphne odora), red-backed excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), and ti plant (Cordyline fruticosa), etc. In addition, branches of lilac (Syringa), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), grape (Vitis), Weigela, deutzia (Deutzia), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), plane tree (Platanus), and fig (Ficus carica), etc., can be cut and stored in sand for cutting in March.

    3. Grafting. Superior varieties of Japanese apricot (Prunus mume) can use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach or wild peach as rootstock for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant in the seedbed, cover with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, four-season mandarin and kumquat, etc., are often propagated by bud grafting; using dug-up wild rose for bud grafting superior rose varieties, with the 'Elizabeth' rose variety as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior rose varieties, grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), camellia (Camellia japonica), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), weigela (Weigela florida), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), snowball viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum var. sterile), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum var. sterile), spiraea (Spiraea), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and red maple (Acer palmatum), etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf lilyturf (Liriope muscari), silver-edge lilyturf (Liriope), lilyturf (Reineckea carnea), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink zephyr lily (Zephyranthes grandiflora), hosta (Hosta plantaginea), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), cymbidium (Cymbidium faberi), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), iris (Iris), spider plant species, lucky bamboo (Rohdea japonica), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), bromeliads, small tulip (Tulipa), shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), and aloe (Aloe), etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina (Nandina domestica), hypericum (Hypericum), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), spiraea (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), bonsai broom (Caragana sinica), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), three-pronged maple (Acer buergerianum), boxwood (Buxus), and purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), etc.

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus) or clivia (Clivia miniata) seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum) seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), holly species, and coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), etc., can be harvested, processed and sand-stratified for germination; only after the seeds crack open and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check sand-stored seeds, including magnolia species, banana shrub species, photinia species, and holly species, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy; if mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, re-rubbed and washed, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage again; if the seeds are found to be dry, replenish spraying with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked open and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc., to retain warmth and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: dianthus (Dianthus), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), and daisy (Bellis perennis), etc.; in colder regions, seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose, etc., can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, then used for display in street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders after spring returns and the weather warms.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and landscaping trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), crabapple species, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maple species, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia × soulangeana), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), linden (Tilia), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), red-flowered spiraea (Spiraea japonica), three-pronged maple (Acer buergerianum), rose (Rosa), Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), and weeping pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), etc. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) and French green (Ligustrum), etc., this month except in special cases should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered locations, after transplanting with heavy reduction pruning and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), wild plum, autumn olive (Elaeagnus pungens), and winged spindle tree (Euonymus alatus), etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina (Nandina domestica), cat's-spine holly (Ilex), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex spp.), and Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), etc., heavy reduction pruning must be carried out and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be used for cultivation, and straw curtains added for cold protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and warmth preservation work is the top priority in management; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special safe overwintering environment for them, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, in a home, or buried in open-ground soil. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus (Asparagus), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), nandina (Nandina domestica), aucuba (Aucuba japonica), banana shrub (Michelia figo), spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), dendrobium (Dendrobium), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), winter daphne (Daphne odora), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), sweet flag (Acorus calamus), bamboo palm (Bambusa multiplex), and dwarf white-striped bamboo (Pleioblastus fortunei), etc. In double-layer plastic tunnels with temperatures not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), chloranthus (Chloranthus spicatus), white orchid (Michelia alba), parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans), bottle orchid (Aglaia odorata), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), Philodendron, monstera (Monstera deliciosa), kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), lemon (Citrus limon), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense), night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum), epiphyllum (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), large Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), and lantana (Lantana camara), etc. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), caladium (Caladium bicolor), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta (Maranta), bromeliads, peperomia (Peperomia), coleus (Coleus), lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), fishtail palm (Caryota), Brazil iron (Dracaena fragrans), money tree (Pachira aquatica), nerve plant (Fittonia), red (green) gem (Dracaena), giant taro (Alocasia), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema), orchid tree (Aglaia odorata), large-flowered cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), cattleya (Cattleya), oncidium (Oncidium), vanda (Vanda), money tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), South American cycad (Zamia), desert rose (Adenium obesum), pink-striped dracaena (Dracaena), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), and coral flower (Jatropha multifida), etc. During particularly cold periods, from 4 pm to 9 am the next day, it is advisable to cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and only stop covering after the temperature turns warm. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 o'clock in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause cold damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), crabapple species, azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate (Punica granatum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), boxwood species, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), summer cypress (Juniperus), Oriental arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), small bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex spp.), and Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus), etc., they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when temperatures are not lower than -10°C, cold damage generally will not occur; in especially cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for warmth.

It is worth noting that whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or homes, potted flowers or bonsai, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, in addition to maintaining a suitable air temperature, must also be well ventilated; doors and windows can be opened for ventilation around noon when the temperature is highest during the day, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air movement southward; if glass breakage, film tearing, etc., are found, repair and plug them in time, so as not to freeze potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully to ensure no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop caused by smoke damage, etc.

To promote tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional lighting each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), hall crabapple (Malus halliana), and winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), etc., can also be placed in tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased lighting time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), and freesia (Freesia), etc., that were placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for potted flower watering management, the most important thing is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature and soil temperature broadly consistent; if the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot or death. The best watering time is around noon, over 2 to 3 hours. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering; for most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and homes, keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, both the potting soil must be kept moist and foliar spraying must be given, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink-striped dracaena (Dracaena), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), maranta (Maranta), and croton (Codiaeum variegatum), etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua camellia (Camellia sasanqua), Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), primrose (Primula), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), etc., and fruit ornamental species such as firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon (Citrus limon), coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), kumquat (Fortunella), kumquat (Fortunella), and winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), etc., not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water to promote flower bud swelling and also increase the vivid color of the fruit.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water; replenish watering in time for plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and replenish watering in time, especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting; around noon, appropriate foliar spraying should also be given to prevent leaves from shriveling and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia × soulangeana), manglietia (Manglietia), banana shrub species, maple species, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), linden (Tilia), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata), palm, schima (Schima superba), machilus (Machilus), purple tree (Nyssa), camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), forsythia (Forsythia viridissima), boxwood (Buxus), grape (Vitis), coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), rose (Rosa), hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), elm-leaf plum (Prunus triloba), tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), deutzia (Deutzia), mock orange (Philadelphus), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), elaeocarpus (Elaeocarpus), golden willow (Salix), weeping elm (Ulmus), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Taiwan cedar (Taiwania cryptomerioides), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara), Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica), weeping pagoda tree (Sophora japonica var. pendula), white silk plum (Exochorda racemosa), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), lilac (Syringa), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), photinia (Photinia), nandina (Nandina domestica), purple bamboo (Bambusa), pomegranate (Punica granatum), and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while digging the soil, fertilizer such as cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the tree root zone, to lay a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-bract flower (Pachystachys lutea), winter daphne (Daphne odora), cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida), primrose (Primula), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), spectabilis crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), colorful bromeliad, clivia (Clivia miniata), bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), and crab claw orchid (Schlumbergera truncata), etc., continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution to promote plant growth and budding and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc., placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as rose (Rosa), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), banksia rose (Rosa banksiae), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), floribunda rose, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), plane tree (Platanus), Chinese tallow tree (Sapium sebiferum), photinia (Photinia), pomegranate (Punica granatum), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), palm, and grape (Vitis), etc., continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of the root zone to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly styled by pruning and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Japanese bitterwood (Xylosma congestum), Chinese fringe tree (Chionanthus retusus), water willow (Adina rubella), autumn olive (Elaeagnus pungens), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), etc., continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, to lay a good foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants not repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For crabapple species, Japanese apricot species, elm-leaf plum species, papaya (Chaenomeles sinensis), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), and red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), etc., whose trunks or large branches have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clear the leaves under rose (Rosa), rose (Rosa rugosa), grape (Vitis), and crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and soft scale, etc., appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), plane tree (Platanus), privet (Ligustrum), firethorn (Pyracantha fortuneana), persimmon (Diospyros kaki), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), and photinia (Photinia), etc., spray with high-concentration profenofos, quinalphos, buprofezin, and lime sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria (Pericallis × hybrida) in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent it from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), and kumquat (Fortunella), etc., in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first use a wet cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) in greenhouses, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc., into water ponds or vats for soaking and fermentation, so they can be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches and fallen leaves in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond mud, tobacco powder, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., with garden soil, pile and compost for fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing growing media.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Soil

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing, in early spring open furrows and make beds for sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, plant species suitable for styling must be those with soft branches, good flexibility and easy styling operations, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Chinese incense-cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), boxwood (Buxus sinica), sawara cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa'), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), shimpaku juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku'), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), water willow (Adina rubella), bonsai broom (Caragana sinica), winter hazel (Corylopsis sinensis), winged spindle tree (Euonymus alatus), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), and wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), etc. After styling, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during styling.

For plants styled 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and tying and training carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing, damaging the plant's fine roots, and possibly causing the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on the small stones from dying of cold after freezing; they should be placed in a location that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, to ensure they can overwinter safely.

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