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How to Propagate Araucaria? Key Points of Seed Sowing and Cutting Explained

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Araucaria is an evergreen tree of the family Araucariaceae. Its leaves are deep green, and the whole plant is graceful and dignified. Many plant enthusiasts now make Araucaria into bonsai to decorate venues and halls. So how should Araucaria be propagated?

Araucaria (detailed description) is an evergreen tree of the family Araucariaceae. Its leaves are deep green, and the whole plant is graceful and dignified. Many plant enthusiasts now make Araucaria into bonsai to decorate venues and halls. So how should Araucaria be propagated?


Araucaria (detailed description)

I. Sowing

Araucaria can be propagated by sowing or cutting. Araucaria grown in the north rarely sets seed, so cutting propagation is often used. In spring, collect the upright new shoots growing from lateral buds or vigorous shoots as cuttings (if lateral branches or weak branches are used as cuttings, the resulting plant will have a distorted crown shape and lose its ornamental value). The cuttings should be 7 cm long; inserted into a greenhouse sand bed at 13-16°C with 60-80% relative air humidity, they will root. Alternatively, cut off the top of a young tree, wait for the lateral buds at the top to produce upright new shoots, and then cut the branches for cuttings in spring.

II. Cutting

Before sowing, it is best to scarify the seed coat first to promote germination. Seed-grown seedlings have a long taproot and few fibrous roots, and are prone to dying when transplanted. By paying attention to key techniques such as protecting the roots, planting carefully, keeping warm, and shading, the survival rate of seedlings can be improved. For seedlings with broken roots, wash them in clean water and insert them into plain sand; at a suitable temperature, they will re-root from the cut surface in 1-2 weeks. For seedlings with broken buds or stems but retaining leaves, they can be planted as usual, and after surviving they will sprout new buds after a certain period.

Morphological Characteristics of Araucaria and How to Cultivate and Propagate It

Araucaria is an evergreen tree native to Norfolk Island, Australia. It has many names: based on its place of origin, it is called English pine, Australian pine, Norfolk Island pine, and Araucaria. Based on leaf type, it is called heterophyllous Araucaria, small-leaved Araucaria, and beautiful Araucaria; based on form, it is called tower Araucaria and Hainan Araucaria. Varieties introduced to China include Araucaria cunninghamii and Araucaria heterophylla. Araucaria cunninghamii has an upright trunk and a tower-shaped overall tree form, with branches whorled and extending horizontally, evenly spaced and clearly layered, thornless, and with a dignified appearance. It is a top-grade foliage plant, mostly grown in pots. Araucaria heterophylla is an excellent ornamental garden plant; planted in the ground it can reach a height of more than 30 m. It likes warmth and sunlight, can tolerate high temperatures of 40°C as well as low temperatures of minus 5°C, and can survive in the open ground around the 27°C north latitude line (Norfolk Island is located at 27°C south latitude).

Morphological Characteristics of Araucaria

Branches
Araucaria is a tree, reaching up to 60-70 m tall in its native habitat, with a diameter at breast height of more than 1 m. The bark is grayish brown or dark gray, coarse, with horizontal fissures; the large branches are spreading or obliquely extended. Young trees have a spire-shaped crown, which becomes flat-topped with age. The lateral branchlets are densely borne, drooping, and arranged nearly pinnately.

Leaves
Araucaria has two leaf forms: the leaves on young trees and lateral branches are loosely arranged and spreading, awl-shaped, needle-shaped, sickle-shaped, or triangular, 7-17 mm long, about 2.5 mm wide at the base, slightly curved, slightly four-angled or with an inconspicuous ridge on the upper (ventral) surface, with many stomatal lines on the upper surface, and irregular stomatal lines or nearly no stomatal lines on the lower surface; the upper part gradually narrows, with an acuminate or slightly acute tip. The leaves on large branches and flowering and fruiting branches are densely arranged and overlapping, extending obliquely upward, slightly curved upward, ovate, triangular-ovate, or triangular, without an obvious ridge or with a longitudinal ridge on the lower surface, 6-10 mm long.

Cones
The cones of Araucaria are ovoid or elliptical, 6-10 cm long, about 4 cm wide, broad at the base, gradually narrowing or slightly rounded above, with an acute or blunt tip, and a distinct or indistinct midrib. The upper surface is grayish green, covered with white powder, and has many stomatal lines; the lower surface is green, with irregular, sparse stomatal lines only in the middle and lower parts. Male cones are solitary at the tips of branches, cylindrical.

The cones of Araucaria are ovoid or elliptical, 6-10 cm long, 4.5-7.5 cm in diameter; the bract scales are cuneate-obovate, with thin wings on both sides, broad and thick at the tip, with a sharp ridge, and an acute long tail-like point in the center that curves markedly backward; the tip of the seed scale is thin, not fleshy; the seeds are elliptical, with a membranous wing formed by fusion on both sides.

Ecological Habits of Araucaria

Araucaria likes light, while seedlings prefer shade; Araucaria likes warm, humid climates and is not tolerant of drought or cold. It prefers fertile soil. It grows relatively fast, has strong sprouting ability, and is resistant to wind.

In winter, Araucaria needs sufficient sunlight, and in summer it should be protected from strong direct sun. It fears the dry, violent winds of the northern spring and the scorching sun of midsummer. It grows best under conditions of 25°C-30°C and relative humidity above 70%. For pot culture, use a loose, fertile potting soil with high humus content and strong drainage and aeration.

Cultivation Techniques for Araucaria

Selection of Mother Plants for Root Cuttings

The mother plant for root cuttings is the propagation source that provides high-quality propagating material, and it must be strictly selected to ensure the superior characteristics of the mother plant are maintained. Generally, trees 5-10 years old that are suitable for landscaping seedlings are used, with robust growth, no pests or diseases, deep green leaves, tightly arranged whorled branches, and good overall performance.

Collection of Root Cuttings

April-May each year is a good period for landscaping and also the best time for cutting propagation. Large numbers of landscaping seedlings leave the nursery; take this opportunity to collect the remaining root systems after seedlings are dug up, or dig up part of the root system from shallow parts of the soil surface around Araucaria heterophylla trees. Use these as material for cutting propagation.

Treatment of Root Cuttings

The treatment of root cuttings in vegetative propagation is an important step related to the survival and rooting of cuttings. Araucaria heterophylla root cuttings should be treated promptly as follows: select roots with a cross-section of 0.8-1.2 cm, cut them to about 10 cm, arrange them in order from head to tail, tie them in bundles of 20-30 roots, and place them in a cool, ventilated place to encourage the fleshy roots to evaporate excess water and prevent rot. The drying time is generally about one week. Selection of cutting medium and environment: for the cutting medium, choose sieved pure river sand with a particle size of 0.5-1.0 mm, which has the advantages of good aeration and drainage.

Construction of the Cutting Bed

The cutting bed is built with bricks, 25 m high and 100 cm wide, with the length determined by the number of cuttings. The bottom of the bed should be level, and the cutting medium is placed inside and slightly leveled and compacted before use.

Selection of the Cutting Environment

The selection of the cutting environment is very important for the survival of cuttings. The suitable rooting temperature for Araucaria heterophylla is 15-25 degrees, the humidity is 70%-80%, and there should be sufficient light, preferably light shading. Choosing a cutting site with such humid conditions for cutting propagation makes it easy to form adventitious roots and adventitious buds, resulting in a high survival rate.

Cutting Method: Root cuttings are best inserted in rows, with a plant spacing of 4 cm and a row spacing of 6 cm. Use a strip of board 6 cm wide, 100 cm long, and 2 cm thick as a ruler, place it on the sand bed to mark the row spacing, and use a small shovel to open slanted furrows along the edge of the board to a depth of about 7 cm. Insert the cuttings into the sand bed to about 2/3 of their length, then place the cuttings neatly in the furrow at equal intervals of about 4 cm, making sure the heads face upward, then cover with sand and compact. After inserting all cuttings, water thoroughly once.

Seedling Transplanting

Araucaria likes warmth and humidity, is shade-tolerant, and is not cold-tolerant. Seed-grown seedlings have a long taproot and few fibrous roots. They are prone to dying when transplanted. To improve the survival rate of Araucaria seedling transplanting, the following key techniques should be followed.

Root Protection

Because Araucaria seedlings have few lateral roots and fine hair roots, they can shrivel and dry out if not handled carefully, so protecting the seedling root system is very important. First, they should be transported with the pot and soil, and the original potting soil should be kept moist. Second, after the seedlings are purchased, they should be planted immediately; if planting cannot be done right away, place them in a cool, humid place and do not expose them to the sun, so as to protect the seedlings, especially the roots, and keep them fresh. In addition, when winter temperatures are low, the roots are prone to freezing during transport, so attention should be paid to keeping them warm.

Careful Planting

When planting, keep as much of the original soil around the seedlings as possible. The planting soil should be loose and fine, and do not press the soil around the roots too hard. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots. In addition, seed-grown Araucaria seedlings have a long taproot, so they should be planted somewhat deeply to prevent the root system from being exposed and the plant from lodging, which would affect survival.

Keeping Warm

Araucaria is not cold-tolerant. If seedlings are purchased and planted in winter or early spring, in addition to protecting against freezing during transport, warmth retention measures should also be taken after planting, such as growing them in a greenhouse or covering them with arched plastic film.

Shading

Araucaria is a shade-tolerant flowering plant, and seedlings are even more afraid of direct sun, so they should be shaded immediately after planting.

Treatment of Broken or Damaged Seedlings

Araucaria seedlings are tender in tissue and easily broken or damaged. The following methods can be used for remediation. For seedlings with broken roots, wash them in clean water and insert them into plain sand; at a suitable temperature, they will re-root from the cut surface after 1-2 weeks, and can be planted after the root system develops. For seedlings with broken buds or stems but retaining leaves, they can be planted as usual, and after surviving they will sprout new buds after a certain period.

Propagation Methods of Araucaria

Propagation by Sowing

Because the seed coat is hard and the germination rate is low, it is best to scarify the seed coat before sowing to promote germination. In addition, sown seedlings are susceptible to pests and diseases, so the soil used should be strictly sterilized. The seeds are best germinated in a sand bed or sown after the above-mentioned shell-breaking method to increase the germination rate; generally they germinate in about 30 days.

Propagation by Cutting

Cutting propagation is relatively easy and is widely used. Cuttings are usually taken in spring and summer, but the main branch must be selected as the cutting; plants grown from lateral branch cuttings are crooked and not upright. The cuttings should be 10-15 cm long. After insertion, under conditions of 18°C-25°C and relatively high air humidity, they root in about 4 months. If the base of the cuttings is soaked in 200 ppm indolebutyric acid (IBA) for 5 hours before insertion, rooting can be promoted earlier.

To obtain more main branches as cuttings, the top of a young tree can be cut off so that many upright new shoots emerge from the top, and these are cut as cuttings in spring. The mother plant after top pruning can continue to produce terminal buds later and can be used as a permanent propagation mother plant. For potting soil for potted Araucaria, it is advisable to use a mixture of 40% peat soil, 40% leaf mold, and 20% river sand. During the growing season, the potting soil should be kept moist; when too dry, the lower leaves will droop and soften, but in winter a slightly dry state should be maintained. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 5%, as low temperatures will freeze and kill the growing points.

Rejuvenating Plants by Air Layering

If conditions in the shed or greenhouse permit, girdle the plant at an appropriate height and then plant the whole plant in the ground, burying the cut more than 10 cm deep. After about 1-2 years, the plant will rejuvenate and grow sufficient new roots; then lift the plant and pot it. At this time, the old roots have already decayed and can be removed. The new plant is shorter and sturdier, making it more ornamental.

After reading the above introduction on how to cultivate and propagate Araucaria, do you have a better understanding of Araucaria cultivation and propagation? If you want to know more about Araucaria, please continue to follow us.

Araucaria Araucaria cunninghamii Araucaria Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Araucaria / How to Propagate Araucaria

Araucaria Profile
Araucaria Araucaria cunninghamii
Araucaria Cultivation Methods and Precautions Introduction to Araucaria
Araucaria is an evergreen tree native to Norfolk Island, Australia. It has many names: based on its place of origin, it is called English pine, Australian pine, Norfolk Island pine, and Araucaria. Based on leaf type, it is called heterophyllous Araucaria, small-leaved Araucaria, and beautiful Araucaria; based on form, it is called tower Araucaria and Hainan Araucaria. Varieties introduced to China include Araucaria cunninghamii and Araucaria heterophylla. Araucaria cunninghamii has an upright trunk and a tower-shaped overall tree form, with branches whorled and extending horizontally, evenly spaced and clearly layered, thornless, and with a dignified appearance. It is a top-grade foliage plant, mostly grown in pots. Araucaria heterophylla is an excellent ornamental garden plant; planted in the ground it can reach a height of more than 30 m. It likes warmth and sunlight, can tolerate high temperatures of 40°C as well as low temperatures of minus 5°C, and can survive in the open ground around the 27°C north latitude line (Norfolk Island is located at 27°C south latitude).
Morphological Characteristics of Araucaria
Tree, reaching up to 60-70 m tall in its native habitat, with a diameter at breast height of more than 1 m. The bark is grayish brown or dark gray, coarse, with horizontal fissures; Araucaria (ink line drawing) large branches are spreading or obliquely extended. Young trees have a spire-shaped crown, which becomes flat-topped with age. The lateral branchlets are densely borne, drooping, and arranged nearly pinnately. Leaves are of two forms: the leaves on young trees and lateral branches are loosely arranged and spreading, awl-shaped, needle-shaped, sickle-shaped, or triangular, 7-17 mm long, about 2.5 mm wide at the base, slightly curved, slightly four-angled or with an inconspicuous ridge on the upper (ventral) surface, with many stomatal lines on the upper surface, and irregular stomatal lines or nearly no stomatal lines on the lower surface; the upper part gradually narrows, with an acuminate or slightly acute tip. The leaves on large branches and flowering and fruiting branches are densely arranged and overlapping, extending obliquely upward, slightly curved upward, ovate, triangular-ovate, or triangular, without an obvious ridge or with a longitudinal ridge on the lower surface, 6-10 mm long. Cones are ovoid or elliptical, 6-10 cm long, about 4 cm wide, broad at the base, gradually narrowing or slightly rounded above, with an acute or blunt tip, and a distinct or indistinct midrib. The upper surface is grayish green, covered with white powder, and has many stomatal lines; the lower surface is green, with irregular, sparse stomatal lines only in the middle and lower parts. Male cones are solitary at the tips of branches, cylindrical. Cones are ovoid or elliptical, 6-10 cm long, 4.5-7.5 cm in diameter; the bract scales are cuneate-obovate, with thin wings on both sides, broad and thick at the tip, with a sharp ridge, and an acute long tail-like point in the center that curves markedly backward; the tip of the seed scale is thin, not fleshy; the seeds are elliptical, with a membranous wing formed by fusion on both sides.
Ecological Habits of Araucaria
It likes a warm climate, fresh and humid air, and soft, sufficient light. It is not cold-tolerant and avoids drought. In winter it needs sufficient sunlight, and in summer it should be protected from strong direct sun. It fears the dry, violent winds of the northern spring and the scorching sun of midsummer. It grows best under conditions of 25°C-30°C and relative humidity above 70%. For pot culture, use a loose, fertile potting soil with high humus content and strong drainage and aeration.
Cultivation Techniques for Araucaria: Selection of Mother Plants for Root Cuttings
The mother plant for root cuttings is the propagation source that provides high-quality propagating material, and it must be strictly selected to ensure the superior characteristics of the mother plant are maintained. Generally, trees 5-10 years old that are suitable for landscaping seedlings are used, with robust growth, no pests or diseases, deep green leaves, tightly arranged whorled branches, and good overall performance.
Collection of Root Cuttings
April-May each year is a good period for landscaping and also the best time for cutting propagation. Large numbers of landscaping seedlings leave the nursery; take this opportunity to collect the remaining root systems after seedlings are dug up, or dig up part of the root system from shallow parts of the soil surface around Araucaria heterophylla trees. Use these as material for cutting propagation.
Treatment of Root Cuttings
The treatment of root cuttings in vegetative propagation is an important step related to the survival and rooting of cuttings. Araucaria heterophylla root cuttings should be treated promptly as follows: select roots with a cross-section of 0.8-1.2 cm, cut them to about 10 cm, arrange them in order from head to tail, tie them in bundles of 20-30 roots, and place them in a cool, ventilated place to encourage the fleshy roots to evaporate excess water and prevent rot. The drying time is generally about one week. Selection of cutting medium and environment: for the cutting medium, choose sieved pure river sand with a particle size of 0.5-1.0 mm, which has the advantages of good aeration and drainage.
Construction of the Cutting Bed
The cutting bed is built with bricks, 25 m high and 100 cm wide, with the length determined by the number of cuttings. The bottom of the bed should be level, and the cutting medium is placed inside and slightly leveled and compacted before use.
Selection of the Cutting Environment
The selection of the cutting environment is very important for the survival of cuttings. The suitable rooting temperature for Araucaria heterophylla is 15-25 degrees, the humidity is 70%-80%, and there should be sufficient light, preferably light shading. Choosing a cutting site with such humid conditions for cutting propagation makes it easy to form adventitious roots and adventitious buds, resulting in a high survival rate.
Cutting Method: Root cuttings are best inserted in rows, with a plant spacing of 4 cm and a row spacing of 6 cm. Use a strip of board 6 cm wide, 100 cm long, and 2 cm thick as a ruler, place it on the sand bed to mark the row spacing, and use a small shovel to open slanted furrows along the edge of the board to a depth of about 7 cm. Insert the cuttings into the sand bed to about 2/3 of their length, then place the cuttings neatly in the furrow at equal intervals of about 4 cm, making sure the heads face upward, then cover with sand and compact. After inserting all cuttings, water thoroughly once.
Seedling Transplanting
Araucaria likes warmth and humidity, is shade-tolerant, and is not cold-tolerant. Seed-grown seedlings have a long taproot and few fibrous roots. They are prone to dying when transplanted. To improve the survival rate of Araucaria seedling transplanting, the following key techniques should be followed. I.Root Protection
Because Araucaria seedlings have few lateral roots and fine hair roots, they can shrivel and dry out if not handled carefully, so protecting the seedling root system is very important. First, they should be transported with the pot and soil, and the original potting soil should be kept moist. Second, after the seedlings are purchased, they should be planted immediately; if planting cannot be done right away, place them in a cool, humid place and do not expose them to the sun, so as to protect the seedlings, especially the roots, and keep them fresh. In addition, when winter temperatures are low, the roots are prone to freezing during transport, so attention should be paid to keeping them warm.
II.Careful Planting
When planting, keep as much of the original soil around the seedlings as possible. The planting soil should be loose and fine, and do not press the soil around the roots too hard. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots. In addition, seed-grown Araucaria seedlings have a long taproot, so they should be planted somewhat deeply to prevent the root system from being exposed and the plant from lodging, which would affect survival.
III.Keeping Warm
Araucaria is not cold-tolerant. If seedlings are purchased and planted in winter or early spring, in addition to protecting against freezing during transport, warmth retention measures should also be taken after planting, such as growing them in a greenhouse or covering them with arched plastic film.
IV.Shading
Araucaria is a shade-tolerant flowering plant, and seedlings are even more afraid of direct sun, so they should be shaded immediately after planting.
V.Treatment of Broken or Damaged Seedlings
Araucaria seedlings are tender in tissue and easily broken or damaged. The following methods can be used for remediation. For seedlings with broken roots, wash them in clean water and insert them into plain sand; at a suitable temperature, they will re-root from the cut surface after 1-2 weeks, and can be planted after the root system develops. For seedlings with broken buds or stems but retaining leaves, they can be planted as usual, and after surviving they will sprout new buds after a certain period.
Bonsai Making
The process of making an Araucaria bonsai is not complicated. Its growth habits: it likes light, a humid climate, and acidic, fertile soil. Before potting, first prepare the potting soil, then choose a purple clay oval ceramic pot according to the size of the plant. In terms of material selection, seed-grown seedlings are preferred; generally, seedlings about fifty cm are used. Those that are robust, with short internodes and deep green color, are considered superior.
When starting to pot, first remove the clay pot, peel off an appropriate amount of soil from the bottom upward, being careful not to damage the absorbing roots. Then cover the bottom of the pot with a 1-2 cm layer of potting soil. After determining the viewing side, place the tree stock at one end of the pot, straighten the plant, add potting soil, and gently firm it, then proceed with the upper shaping. The upper shaping of Araucaria is relatively difficult; from bottom to top, each layer of branch pads consists of four to five whorled branches. First, cut off the lowest whorl of branches, then cut off the two horizontal branches on the upper and lower sides of the left side of the tree, then cut off one branch each at the front and back, and finally slightly bend and pull individual upper branch pads so that the branch supports appear natural and orderly. Because the base of the main trunk of Araucaria seedlings is roughly the same thickness, use prepared palm fiber to wrap the main trunk into a trunk that is thick at the bottom and thin at the top, then gently tie it with fine rope twisted from palm silk, not too tightly. In this way, the base of the main trunk has a pleasing thickness variation, forming a large-tree-shaped crown. If there are no protruding roots at the base root plate, it is necessary to appropriately add several purplish-brown curved roots, protruding above the soil, to show stability. This solves the shortcoming of bonsai trees without roots being like inserted wood. Finally, add a small brownish-yellow elephant stone, which gives it a rather southern scenery charm. Thus, a lush, beautiful, and elegant Araucaria bonsai is presented before your eyes.
After completing the above work, water thoroughly to settle the roots, place in a shaded place for half a month for maintenance, and then move to routine management. To promote vigorous growth, in summer and autumn spray the leaves once a month with a mixed solution of 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and urea, thereby maintaining the deep green leaf color.
Potted Management: Loosening Soil and Watering
After planting, water promptly and loosen the surface soil to reduce water evaporation. Usually water moderately; during the growing season water frequently, 2-3 times a week, with penetration of 10-15 cm being appropriate. As the seedling grows, reduce the frequency of watering, and always keep the potting soil and surrounding environment moist, strictly preventing drought and waterlogging. In hot, dry periods, often spray water or mist on the leaves and surrounding environment to increase air humidity and keep the soil moist. Avoid the potting soil becoming too dry in summer or receiving too much water in winter; both too dry and too wet can cause the lower leaves to droop and soften. In summer, avoid strong direct sun; place it in a shaded area in the shed and sprinkle water frequently to maintain relatively high air humidity.
Shaping Management
Araucaria is valued for its upright, straight plant form. In the second year of cutting seedlings, or when seed-grown seedlings reach about 50 cm, a stick should be set up and wrapped for support to prevent the plant from twisting and affecting the ornamental effect. Young trees should be repotted once a year or every other year in spring; plants more than five years old should have their pots and soil changed once every two or three years, combined with spraying chlormequat to control the height of the Araucaria. In northern regions, move them outdoors at the end of April or early May and place them in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot for maintenance. In midsummer, provide appropriate shade, and during the growing season turn the pot in a timely manner to prevent the tree form from growing crooked and affecting the ornamental value. Araucaria is not tolerant of severe cold. In northern regions, move it indoors at the end of September or early October (Cold Dew), place it in a sunny, well-ventilated spot, stop fertilizing and control watering, and the room temperature must not be lower than 8°C.
Frequent Fertilization
For potted Araucaria, use a mixture of leaf mold, peat soil, pure river sand, and a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer. The potting soil is best mixed with 3 parts loam, 1 part leaf mold, 1 part coarse sand, and a small amount of plant ash, with the soil depth controlled so that the rooting buds in the upper layer are just exposed on the soil surface. From the beginning of new bud sprouting in spring, apply 1-2 times a month of decomposed dilute organic liquid fertilizer and calcium fertilizer to keep the plant fresh and the leaves glossy.
Monthly Management
January: Do a good job of cold protection for overwintering. Room temperature should be above 10°C. Control watering, stop fertilizing, and provide sufficient light.
February: Same management as the previous month.
March: As the weather warms, appropriately increase watering and fertilizing, and do a good job of indoor ventilation. Usually pay attention to protecting the lateral branches so as not to damage them and affect the plant shape. Under normal conditions, there is no need to prune or shape Araucaria; it is best to let it grow naturally.
April: Repot once every 2-3 years. The potting soil can be made of peat soil and leaf mold plus about 1/4 river sand and a small amount of base fertilizer.
May: It can be moved outdoors, with 50%-70% of sunlight shaded. During the growing season, in addition to watering, also spray water on the leaves and ground to lower the ground temperature and increase air humidity. During the growing season, apply fertilizer 1-2 times a month. To keep a good plant shape, turn the pot frequently so that it receives even light and maintains a straight form.
June: For cutting propagation, terminal buds must be used, not lateral branches, because seedlings from lateral branch cuttings cannot grow upright and can only grow horizontally. The cuttings should be about 15 cm long and inserted into a cutting bed made of coarse sand or vermiculite, with about 1/3-1/2 of the cutting inserted into the bed. Maintain 20-25°C and relatively high air humidity; rooting takes 4-6 months.
July: Same management as the previous month.
August: Same management as the previous month.
September: As the weather turns cool, control watering and fertilizing and provide sufficient light. To prevent the plant from growing crooked, insert a thin bamboo pole beside the seedling for support to ensure a neat and beautiful plant shape.
October: Move indoors, control watering, stop fertilizing, and increase light. To prevent the tree form from becoming lopsided, turn the pot once every half month.
November: Do a good job of keeping warm in winter. Keep the soil moist. Turn the pot once every half month.
December: Same management as the previous month.

Disease Control of Araucaria: Anthracnose
[Symptoms]: The disease occurs on leaves. Small brown spots first appear on the leaves, then expand and spread, causing local branches and leaves to turn brown and die.
[Pathogen]: Colletotrichum derridis
[Control methods]: 1. Clean the garden and promptly remove diseased residues, carry them out of the field, and burn or bury them deeply.
2. In the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 700 times dilution or 40% sulfur suspension at 600 times dilution, once every 7-10 days, for 3-4 consecutive applications.
Leaf Blight
[Symptoms]: Some or all of the affected small needles turn grayish brown to grayish white and dry up, with dense small black granules on them.
[Pathogen and disease characteristics]: The pathogen is a fungus of the Deuteromycotina, mainly Macrophoma sp., but also Phyllosticta sp. and Diplodia sp. The fungi overwinter as mycelium and pycnidia in diseased leaves and plant debris. The conidia they produce are spread by wind and rain to cause infection. Disease is more prevalent in warm, rainy years and seasons.
[Control methods]: Refer to the control of Buddhist pine leaf blight. You can also spray 40% sulfur-multiplex suspension concentrate at 600 times dilution, or 30% copper oxychloride suspension concentrate at 600 times dilution, or 25% myclobutanil emulsifiable concentrate at 8000 times dilution, or 40% flusilazole emulsifiable concentrate at 8000 times dilution, or 50% dodecylguanidine acetate aqueous solution at 1500 times dilution, or 69% mancozeb + 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 1500 times dilution, or 65% carbendazim-mancozeb wettable powder at 600 times dilution. In nurseries and gardens where the disease occurs frequently, spray once in winter and spring together with garden cleanup, combining ground spraying with spraying on the trees for a better effect.
Scale insects
They can be controlled by spraying 40% omethoate at 1000-1500 times dilution.
Leaves turning yellow
The causes of yellowing leaves in Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) can be summarized as the following 5 points:
1. Insufficient light. When grown in a well-lit place, the Norfolk Island pine grows well; when kept in a poorly lit place for a long time, it will show leaf yellowing accompanied by leaf drop. It needs to be moved to a better-lit place, otherwise the plant's condition will worsen further.
2. Overwatering. The watering principle for Norfolk Island pine is to water when dry and withhold when wet; never water too much or too often, and do not water if the potting soil is not dry, otherwise the roots will lack oxygen and rot, making it difficult to absorb water and nutrients, and the plant will show symptoms of distress. [3] 3. Damage from low or high temperatures. When the temperature is below 5 degrees, the Norfolk Island pine's leaves turn yellow and some drop off. During high temperatures, if the air humidity is low, a large number of yellow leaves will appear.
4. Air humidity that is too low or wind that is too strong causes acute dehydration and yellowing of the leaves. This requires placing it in a sheltered place, or frequently spraying and sprinkling water to raise the air humidity.
5. Infection by disease. Generally, fungicides such as carbendazim and chlorothalonil should be sprayed for prevention.

Propagation methods of Norfolk Island pine: seed propagation
Because the seed coat is hard and the germination rate is low, it is best to break the seed coat before sowing to promote germination. In addition, seedlings from sowing are susceptible to pests and diseases, so the soil used should be strictly sterilized. The seeds are best germinated in a sand bed or by the above-mentioned shell-breakingsowing method to increase the germination rate; generally they sprout in about 30 days. Cutting propagation
Cutting propagation is relatively easy and is widely used. Cuttings are usually taken in spring and summer, but the main branch must be selected as the cutting; plants grown from side-branch cuttings are crooked and not upright. The cuttings are 10 to 15 cm long, and after planting they root in about 4 months under conditions of 18°C to 25°C and high air humidity. If the base of the cutting is soaked in 200 ppm indolebutyric acid (IBA) for 5 hours before planting, rooting can be promoted earlier.
To obtain more main branches as cuttings, the young tree can be cut back at the top, causing many upright new shoots to sprout from the top, which are cut off in spring and used as cuttings. The mother plant after this top pruning can still continue to grow terminal buds and be used as a permanent propagation mother plant. For potting soil for container-grown Norfolk Island pine, it is best to use a mixture of 40% peat soil, 40% leaf mold and 20% river sand. During the growing season the potting soil should be kept moist; when too dry, the lower leaves droop and soften, but in winter a slightly dry state should be maintained. In winter the room temperature should be kept above 5%, as low temperatures will freeze and kill the growing points. (Note: the source says 5%, likely a typo for 5°C.)
Air layering to renew the plant
If conditions in the greenhouse permit, the plant can be ring-barked at a suitable height and the whole plant planted in the ground, with the cut buried at a depth of more than 10 cm. In about 1-2 years the plant will regain vigor and grow sufficient new roots; then it can be lifted and potted, and by this time the old roots have rotted and can be removed. The new plant is shorter and stockier and even more ornamental.

Distribution range of Norfolk Island pine
Native to the southeastern coastal regions of Oceania. It is cultivated in Guangzhou, Hainan Island, Xiamen and other places in China as a garden tree; it grows fast. Norfolk Island pine - trunk, already flowering and fruiting; north of the Yangtze River it is grown in pots.
Australia and New Guinea; Guangzhou, Hainan Island, Xiamen and other places in China

Cultivar classification of Norfolk Island pine
Bunya pine Araucaria bidwillii Hook.
Norfolk Island pine Araucaria heterophylla (Salisb.) Franco

Uses and purposes of Norfolk Island pine: ornamental value
The Norfolk Island pine has a tall tree form and graceful posture. Together with the cedar, Japanese umbrella pine, coast redwood and golden larch, it is known as one of the world's 5 great park tree species. It is best planted alone as a landscape tree or memorial tree, and can also be used as a street tree. However, it is advisable to choose a site without strong wind to avoid a lopsided crown. The Norfolk Island pine is also a precious indoor potted ornamental tree species. It is a beautiful landscape tree and can be planted alone, in rows, or mixed within groves. It can also serve as a background tree for large sculptures or landscape architecture. The Norfolk Island pine is also a precious indoor potted ornamental tree species, used to accent and decorate hall environments, appearing very elegant.
The Norfolk Island pine has a spire-shaped tree form with luxuriant branches and leaves, and leaves that are triangular or ovate; it is one of the world's famous garden trees. It can be planted in rows, alone, or mixed within groves, and can also serve as a background tree for sculptures or landscape architecture. It can also be used as a street tree, but it is advisable to choose a site without strong wind to avoid a lopsided crown. Potted seedlings are suitable for accenting the living room, hallway or study of ordinary homes; they can also be used to decorate all kinds of meeting venues and exhibition halls; and they can also serve as gifts for relatives and friends on the happy occasions of opening a business or moving to a new home.
Timber value
The Norfolk Island pine has excellent wood quality and is an important timber tree species in Australia and South Africa; it can be used for construction, implements, furniture and so on.
Norfolk Island pine pictures

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