What are the propagation methods for Japanese late cherry?

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Many people have seen cherry blossoms, but they don't know that cherry blossoms are divided into early cherry and late cherry. In fact, the flowers of late cherry are more abundant and have a long flowering period. Some flower enthusiasts are very interested in the Japanese late cherry but don't know how to propagate it. The editor will introduce the propagation methods of the Japanese late cherry for you.

Japanese late cherry

The Japanese late cherry has abundant horticultural varieties, with double-petaled pink varieties being the finest. Its seeds are very few, and rooting from branch cuttings is also very difficult, so the propagation coefficient is small, which limits its application in gardens. Previous studies have not made breakthrough progress in improving the propagation coefficient of the Japanese late cherry. The difficulty of rooting cuttings in Prunus plants may be related to the accumulation of inert substances in dormant branches.

For the seedbed soil of the Japanese late cherry, expanded vermiculite is generally better. A vermiculite seedbed has a small day-night temperature difference and large accumulated temperature, with good insulation effect, which is conducive to root growth. Then select a 15 cm long branch from a robust mother tree, with the upper end bearing a new shoot of the current year and the lower end being a one-year-old branch, as the cutting. The survival rate of cuttings is highest during the full flowering period of the cherry.

On the bottom layer of a seedbed built with bricks, spread 2 to 3 cm of river sand, then fill in 15 cm thick vermiculite. Install 1 centrifugal sprinkler every 1 m. When the weather turns hot, shade appropriately and spray water frequently to ensure humidity. Surround with branches as a fence to block wind. Insert the cuttings vertically in rows into the vermiculite, with a plant spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 4 cm. After inserting, water thoroughly. A cutting depth of 6 to 8 cm is appropriate.

The role of the Japanese late cherry, care knowledge for the Japanese late cherry, classification of the Japanese late cherry

Flower and Bonsai Network guide: Today, the Flower and Bonsai Network editor shares with you an article about the role of the Japanese late cherry, care knowledge for the Japanese late cherry, and classification of the Japanese late cherry. Let's take a look.

The Japanese late cherry is a type of cherry blossom. It blooms beautifully and is suitable for ornamental viewing. So besides this ornamental role, does the Japanese late cherry have any other uses?

The Japanese late cherry is a famous ornamental plant. Its flower buds have the medicinal value of "relieving cough and dispelling wind."

The ornamental role of the Japanese late cherry

When cultivating the Japanese late cherry, its most prominent role is probably its ornamental value.

The Japanese late cherry has large flowers and is fragrant. When it blooms, the whole tree is covered with flowers, giving a feeling of a profusion of blooms. Generally speaking, planting beautiful Japanese late cherries in groups can fully bring out their ornamental role.

There are several varieties of the Japanese late cherry. Cultivating them in patches, whether in landscape gardens, courtyards, or beside roads, the Japanese late cherry can play a role in beautifying the environment and creating a different natural scenery.

The medicinal role of the Japanese late cherry

Besides being ornamental, the Japanese late cherry also has certain medicinal effects.

The medicinal part of the Japanese late cherry is mainly its flower buds. The flower buds of the Japanese late cherry have cough-relieving and wind-dispelling effects. After being used as medicine, they can treat some respiratory diseases such as cough and bronchitis. The effect is quite significant.

The edible role of the Japanese late cherry

The Japanese late cherry is not only beautiful in bloom and highly ornamental and can be used as medicine, it also has an edible use. The edible part of the Japanese late cherry is its many flowers.

The fresh flowers of the Japanese late cherry can be used as an additive material for some processed foods, made into cherry cakes or cherry pastries, and the resulting foods are also quite delicious.

In addition, it can also be made into cherry wine for people to drink. Cherry wine has the effect of softening blood vessels and regulating qi and blood.

Care knowledge for the Japanese late cherry

Cultivation techniques for the Japanese late cherry

The Japanese late cherry has large flowers, double petals, bright colors, a fragrant scent, and a long flowering period, making it an excellent variety among cherry blossoms. Its grafted propagation is slow to form seedlings and the operation is cumbersome, while hardwood cuttings are also difficult to root. Using vermiculite as the substrate and inserting one-year-old branches with tender shoots during the full flowering period results in a very high survival rate.

Seedling raising methods
Substrate
Use expanded vermiculite as the substrate and maintain a pH value of 6.2. At night, the temperature of the vermiculite seedbed is 2°C to 3°C higher than that of a soil bed, while at noon the temperature is 1°C to 2°C lower than that of a soil bed, indicating that the vermiculite seedbed has a small day-night temperature difference and large accumulated temperature, with good insulation effect, which is conducive to root growth. In production, granular vermiculite is preferred, as it has good permeability and is conducive to rooting. Powdered vermiculite is sticky and has poor air permeability. When raising seedlings, do not mix soil into the vermiculite, otherwise root rot is likely.
Cutting time
It can be carried out from April to July. The survival rate of cuttings is highest during the full flowering period of the cherry, when the plant is in the peak period of physiological activity and is easy to root. For cuttings made on April 28, after transplanting on June 28 there was no setback, and 5 days later new buds of 0.5 cm sprouted. After 4 years of cultivation, the tree was full of flowers.
Selection and treatment of cuttings
(1) Selection of cuttings: Cut a 15 cm long branch from a robust mother tree, with the upper end bearing a new shoot of the current year and the lower end being a one-year-old branch. The leaves on the new shoot can produce nutrients, and the one-year-old branch has already become woody, making cuttings easy to survive. Most cuttings from 3- to 6-year-old branches rot and die. The survival rate of cuttings is related to age. The older the branch, the weaker its physiological function and the harder it is to survive.
(2) Treatment of cuttings: Before insertion, remove the leaves on the part inserted into the vermiculite and retain the upper leaves. Treat the cuttings by quickly dipping them in 1000 ppm naphthalene acetic acid. That is, insert the base of the cutting 2 to 3 cm into a 1000 ppm naphthalene acetic acid solution, then immediately take it out for cutting, dipping and inserting as you go.
Cutting method
Build a seedbed 20 cm high and 1 m wide with bricks (the length depends on the number of cuttings). On the bottom layer of the seedbed, spread 2 to 3 cm of river sand, then fill in 15 cm thick vermiculite. Install 1 centrifugal sprinkler every 1 m, or connect a sprayer wand to a tap water pipe for spraying. In early May, set up a shade shed, and use branches around it as a fence to block wind. To keep warm and moist, a plastic shed cover can also be set up on the seedbed. Insert the cuttings vertically in rows into the vermiculite, with a plant spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 4 cm. After inserting, water thoroughly. A cutting depth of 6 to 8 cm is appropriate, because according to observation, the temperature at a depth of 5 cm is on average 2°C to 4°C higher than at a depth of 10 cm, and most callus tissue and adventitious roots form at 6 to 8 cm.
Management after cutting
Frequent spraying to keep the leaf surface moist is the key to survival. At noon when the temperature is high, spray even more frequently and at shorter intervals. At night and in the morning when there is dew, spraying may be omitted. Keep the relative air humidity above 90%, and keep the vermiculite humidity at 58% to 60%. This index must be reached before rooting, and even more attention should be paid before callus tissue forms. In early May, set up a shade shed to prevent exposure to the scorching sun. When the temperature inside the plastic shed exceeds 35°C, open both ends of the shed for ventilation, and after the temperature drops to 27°C, seal it well again. If the weather is too hot, spray water outside the plastic shed, which can both lower the temperature and avoid excessive water spraying causing too much water content in the vermiculite.
Transplanting time and method
Transplant in time when the roots of the cuttings grow to 6 to 8 cm. If transplanted too late, the roots of the cuttings will turn brown and rot, and the leaves will gradually turn yellow. This is because vermiculite can only keep warm, retain moisture, and provide aeration, playing a role in promoting rooting, but it has no nutrients to supply the continued growth of the cuttings. In addition, cuttings with few roots or only callus tissue and no roots should be kept in the seedbed and transplanted after the roots grow well.
Creating an environment suitable for the continued growth of the cuttings is the key to ensuring survival after transplanting. Choose a fertile plot that does not accumulate water, make a north-south oriented bed 8 m long and 0.3 m wide, mix in sandy loam and deep plow 30 cm, then cover with 2 cm thick sandy loam. Level the bed surface and plant one row per bed with a plant spacing of 30 cm. Place the root system of the cutting together with the surrounding vermiculite into the planting hole, and cover the hole fully with sandy soil. Do not press hard, to prevent breaking the tender roots. Then irrigate the bed surface thoroughly with water, and set up a 1.2 m high shade shed above. Spray 2 to 3 times a day to keep the leaf surface moist, and water the ground frequently, keeping it alternately dry and wet. Seedlings transplanted in this way do not suffer setback, have a high survival rate, and grow normally.
The effect of treatment with IBA
The research results show that treating the middle and basal segments of current-year branches on 1-year-old Japanese late cherry trees with IBA can extremely significantly increase the rooting rate of the cuttings, and at the same time extremely significantly improve the quality of the rooted cuttings (reflected here by the rate of strong seedlings). The rooting rate and strong seedling rate of the basal segment are better than those of the middle segment. For green branch cuttings of the Japanese late cherry, when treated with IBA, it is appropriate to select the basal segment of current-year branches from 1-year-old trees as cuttings.
Planting and cultivation
1. Seed cultivation - few seeds
2. Branch cuttings rooting - Prunus plants are difficult to root from cuttings, possibly related to the accumulation of inert substances in dormant branches
3. Non-test-tube rapid propagation technology

Disease control of the Japanese late cherry

Disease control
Root nodule disease
When the disease occurs, tumor-like growths appear on the roots of the plant, with various shapes and sizes, brown to dark brown in color, and the surface is rough and often cracked. The affected parts are on the ground or near the ground at the root crown or at the junction of the rootstock and scion. After being attacked, the plant often shows poor growth and stunted size.
Control method: Dig up the affected plant, rinse off the soil, soak the roots in a 1% copper sulfate solution for 5 to 8 minutes, rinse after soaking, and then replant; cut off the tumor-like growths, apply 0.1% mercuric chloride solution to the wounds, and then replant.
Anthracnose
In the early stage of the disease, round lesions appear on young leaves. After the lesions heal, they can form holes. After June, the leaves become hard, and the lesions on the leaf surface are rough, brown, irregular lesions. When the disease is severe, it can cause a large amount of leaf fall and also cause dead buds.
Control method: Alternately spray with 70% mancozeb wettable granules at 1000 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim wettable granules at 500 times dilution, or 50% thiram wettable granules at 1000 times dilution, spraying 3 to 4 times in succession, with an interval of 7 to 10 days each time; during the disease period, do not spray the leaves of the plant.
Brown spot shot-hole disease
When the disease occurs, small grayish-brown round spots first appear on the leaves. As the disease develops, round spots about 3 cm in diameter gradually form. The lesion boundaries are clear, with the outer part purple-brown and the middle white-brown, with concentric rings. After the lesions die and fall off, irregular holes form.
Control method: After the disease occurs, spray 50% Kasugamycin at 1000 times dilution for control, once every 10 days, continuously spraying 3 to 4 times, which can effectively control the disease.

Variety classification of the Japanese late cherry

In Japan, horticultural classification groups wild species collectively as "mountain cherry," while artificially selected and naturally mutated ones are called "village cherry." Common cherry varieties in Chinese gardens mainly include:
Yunnan early cherry（P.majestica）
Native to Yunnan. The flowering period is from late February to early March. It blooms before leafing out. The flowers are deep red, with about 25 petals, a flower diameter of about 2.5 cm, and the flowers are half-open and drooping, with red sepals. Young leaves are tea-brown.
Somei Yoshino（Prunus x yedoensis）
An important cultivated variety of Japanese cherry, a hybrid of Oshima cherry and Edohigan cherry, inheriting respectively the large flowers and the blooming-before-leafing characteristics of the two. The flowering period is in mid-March, single-petaled flowers, pale pink, with 4 to 5 flowers forming a raceme, and hairs on the sepals and pedicels. The tree form is tall, reaching 10 to 15 m.
Oshima cherry（P.lannesiana var.speciosa）
A representative of wild cherry, the tree can reach 15 m in height. The flowering period is in mid-March, with flowers and leaves appearing at the same time. The flowers are white, single-petaled, and open in corymb form. The calyx tube is long bell-shaped, the sepals are lanceolate with serrated edges, and the flower as a whole is hairless. Many horticultural cherry varieties originate from Oshima cherry.
Kanzan（P.lannesiana Sekiyama）
A variety of the Japanese late cherry, widely planted in China. The flowering period is at the end of March or the beginning of April, with flowers and leaves appearing at the same time. The flowers are deep red, with a flower diameter of about 6 cm and about 30 petals. Two pistils become leaf-like, so it cannot set fruit. The pedicels are thick and long. Young leaves are tea-brown. The small branches are numerous and curve upward.
Peony cherry(flowers red, pink)
Amayadori(flowers white)

Cutting propagation of the Japanese late cherry

Cutting time

It can be carried out from April to July. The survival rate of cuttings is highest during the full flowering period of the cherry.

Selection and treatment of cuttings

Cut a robust growing branch, about 15 cm long, with the upper end bearing a new shoot of the current year and the lower end being a one-year-old branch. Before cutting the Japanese late cherry, remove the lower leaves and retain only the upper leaves. Then place the base 2 to 3 cm of the cutting into a 1000 ppm naphthalene acetic acid solution, at the base 2-3 cm part. After dipping, it needs to be cut immediately.

Cutting method

Build a seedbed 20 cm high and 1 m wide with bricks. On the bottom layer of the seedbed, spread 2 to 3 cm of river sand, then fill in 15 cm thick vermiculite. Install 1 centrifugal sprinkler every 1 m, or connect a sprayer wand to a tap water pipe for spraying. In early May, a shade shed needs to be set up, and branches should be used around it as a fence to block wind. A plastic shed cover can also be set up on the seedbed. Insert the cuttings vertically in rows into the vermiculite, maintaining a plant spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 4 cm. The suitable cutting depth is between 6-8 cm. After cutting is completed, water thoroughly.

Management after cutting

Spray the leaf surface frequently, especially at noon when the temperature is high, when the number of sprays needs to be increased. The relative air humidity needs to be kept above 90%, while the vermiculite humidity should be kept at around 60%. This index must be reached before rooting, especially before callus tissue forms.

In early May, a shade shed needs to be set up to prevent exposure to the sun. When the temperature inside the plastic shed is higher than 35°C, open both ends of the shed for ventilation, and after the temperature drops to 27°C, seal it well again. If the weather is hot, spray water outside the plastic shed, which can lower the temperature while also avoiding excessive water spraying causing too much water content in the vermiculite.