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How to propagate the rose myrtle? Detailed guide to seed sowing and cuttings

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The rose myrtle can grow up to 2 m tall, and it is very beautiful when in bloom. Its fruit is also a natural food source for birds, and the whole plant can be used medicinally to invigorate blood circulation and unblock collaterals. Rose myrtles are rarely grown in ordinary homes; they can be seen in landscaping and ecological environment construction.

The rose myrtle can grow up to 2 m tall, and it is very beautiful when in bloom. Its fruit is also a natural food source for birds, and the whole plant can be used medicinally to invigorate blood circulation and unblock collaterals. Rose myrtles are rarely grown in ordinary homes; they can be seen in landscaping and ecological environment construction. The rose myrtle can be propagated by sowing and cuttings; the editor will now introduce these methods for you.


Rose myrtle

I. Propagation by sowing

1. Propagation method

Before sowing, the seeds must first be selected. Whether the seeds are well chosen directly affects whether sowing succeeds. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate. Choose plump seeds with no defects or deformities and no pests or diseases. For home disinfection of seeds, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, then use warm water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring until hot; any pests and diseases will be scalded to death.

Soak the seeds in warm water (at a temperature similar to face-washing water) for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped. For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with the hands or other tools, moisten one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, then cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then place the sowing pot into water with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the pot's height, allowing the water to slowly soak upward (this method is called the "pot immersion method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up with the hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness 2-3 times that of the seeds.

After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to moisten the sowing substrate. Later, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds out.

2. Management after sowing

After sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, when a cold wave and low temperatures occur, the flowerpot can be wrapped in plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak and spindly; after most of the seeds have sprouted, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space between them; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.

II. Propagation by cuttings

When doing softwood cuttings, from late spring to early autumn when the plant is growing vigorously, select robust current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, choose the sturdy parts and cut them into sections 5-15 cm long, each section bearing more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made straight across about 1 cm above the topmost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made at an angle about 0.5 cm below the lowest leaf node; both upper and lower cuts should be smooth (the knife must be sharp). When doing hardwood cuttings, after temperatures rise in early spring, select healthy and robust branches as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.

How to grow the rose myrtle: propagation methods for the rose myrtle

The rose myrtle has a very long flowering period, and when it blooms it is as brilliant as red clouds, very beautiful, and very suitable for dotting around a courtyard, so many people also grow it. Next, I will introduce the cultivation methods for the rose myrtle, as well as its propagation methods.

How to grow the rose myrtle

I. Humidity

It likes a moist climate environment and requires the air relative temperature of the growing environment to be 70-80%. If the air relative humidity is too low, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the upper leaves lose their luster.

II. Temperature

Because it originated in tropical regions and likes high-temperature and high-humidity environments, it has very strict temperature requirements for winter. When the ambient temperature is below 10°C, growth stops, and when frost occurs, it cannot overwinter safely.

In summer, strengthen air convection so that the heat inside the plant can be released; place it in semi-shade, or provide it with 50% shade; give it appropriate misting, 2-3 times a day.

In winter, it is best to move it indoors to a bright place for care; outdoors, it can be wrapped in plastic film to overwinter, but every two days at the higher noon temperature the film should be uncovered to let it breathe.

III. Light

It likes a semi-shady environment. In autumn, winter, and spring, it can be given sufficient sunlight, but in summer it needs more than 50% shade. When growing it indoors, place it in a place with bright light as much as possible, such as a well-lit living room, bedroom, study, and similar places. After growing it indoors for a period (about one month), move it outdoors to a shaded place (with winter warmth-retention conditions) for care for a period (about one month), and alternate back and forth in this way.

IV. Fertilizer and water

For potted plants, in addition to adding organic fertilizer when potting up, appropriate fertilizer and water management should also be carried out during ordinary care.

Spring, summer, and autumn: These three seasons are its peak growing seasons. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" - clear water - "Hua Bao" - clear water, with an interval of about 1-4 days.

Winter: During the winter dormant period, the main task is to control fertilizer and water well. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" - clear water - clear water - "Hua Bao" - clear water - clear water, with an interval of about 3-7 days. On sunny days or during high temperatures, the interval is shorter; on overcast and rainy days or during low temperatures, the interval is longer or no watering is done. For plants grown in the ground, in spring and summer, according to drought conditions, apply fertilizer and water 2-4 times: first open a small ring-shaped trench 30-100 cm outside the root crown (the larger the plant, the farther from the root crown), with the trench width and depth both 20 cm. Sprinkle 25-50 jin of organic fertilizer into the trench, or 1-5 liang of granular compound fertilizer (chemical fertilizer), then water thoroughly. After winter begins and before spring begins, apply fertilizer once more in the above manner, but do not water.

Propagation methods for the rose myrtle

I. Seeds

Before sowing, the seeds must first be selected. Whether the seeds are well chosen directly affects whether sowing succeeds. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate. Choose plump seeds with no defects or deformities and no pests or diseases. For home disinfection of seeds, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, then use warm water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring until hot; any pests and diseases will be scalded to death. Soak the seeds in warm water (at a temperature similar to face-washing water) for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped. For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with the hands or other tools, moisten one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, then cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then place the sowing pot into water with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the pot's height, allowing the water to slowly soak upward (this method is called the "pot immersion method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up with the hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm.

After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness 2-3 times that of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to moisten the sowing substrate. Later, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds out; after sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, when a cold wave and low temperatures occur, the flowerpot can be wrapped in plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak and spindly; after most of the seeds have sprouted, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space between them; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.

II. Cuttings

When doing softwood cuttings, from late spring to early autumn when the plant is growing vigorously, select robust current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, choose the sturdy parts and cut them into sections 5-15 cm long, each section bearing more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made straight across about 1 cm above the topmost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made at an angle about 0.5 cm below the lowest leaf node; both upper and lower cuts should be smooth (the knife must be sharp). When doing hardwood cuttings, after temperatures rise in early spring, select healthy and robust branches as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.

Cultivation methods for the rose myrtle, how to propagate the rose myrtle?

The rose myrtle grows on hilly slopes and is an indicator plant for acidic soil. It likes a high-temperature and high-heat environment, so it has very strict temperature requirements for winter.

Rose myrtle, also known by the aliases Duoni, Gangren, Shanren, Duolian, Dangli root, Renzishu, Douren, Zhongni, Wuduzi, Taojiuniang, Dangni, is a plant of the family Myrtaceae and genus Rhodomyrtus. It is about 1 m tall, with opposite elliptical leaves that have three basal main veins and are pubescent beneath. The flowers are solitary in the leaf axils, and the flowering period is from July to August. The fruit is a berry, green when unripe, ripening between August and October, dark purple when ripe, about the size of a cherry, with red flesh and a sweet taste, and it is edible.

Cultivation methods for the rose myrtle

1. Humidity

It likes a moist climate environment and requires the air relative temperature of the growing environment to be 70-80%. If the air relative humidity is too low, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the upper leaves lose their luster.

2. Temperature

Because it originated in tropical regions and likes high-temperature and high-humidity environments, it has very strict temperature requirements for winter. When the ambient temperature is below 10°C, growth stops, and when frost occurs, it cannot overwinter safely.

3. Light

It likes a semi-shady environment. In autumn, winter, and spring, it can be given sufficient sunlight, but in summer it needs more than 50% shade. When growing it indoors, place it in a place with bright light as much as possible, such as a well-lit living room, bedroom, study, and similar places. After growing it indoors for a period (about one month), move it outdoors to a shaded place (with winter warmth-retention conditions) for care for a period (about one month), and alternate back and forth in this way.

4. Fertilizer and water

For potted plants, in addition to adding organic fertilizer when potting up, appropriate fertilizer and water management should also be carried out during ordinary care. Spring, summer, and autumn: These three seasons are its peak growing seasons. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" - clear water - "Hua Bao" - clear water, with an interval of about 1-4 days. Winter: During the winter dormant period, the main task is to control fertilizer and water well. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Hua Bao" - clear water - clear water - "Hua Bao" - clear water - clear water, with an interval of about 3-7 days. On sunny days or during high temperatures, the interval is shorter; on overcast and rainy days or during low temperatures, the interval is longer or no watering is done. For plants grown in the ground, in spring and summer, according to drought conditions, apply fertilizer and water 2-4 times: first open a small ring-shaped trench 30-100 cm outside the root crown (the larger the plant, the farther from the root crown), with the trench width and depth both 20 cm. Sprinkle 25-50 jin of organic fertilizer into the trench, or 1-5 liang of granular compound fertilizer (chemical fertilizer), then water thoroughly. After winter begins and before spring begins, apply fertilizer once more in the above manner, but do not water.

Propagation methods for the rose myrtle

I. Transplant cultivation method for the rose myrtle

Select young saplings with new basal shoots and dark green or light green leaves. When lifting the seedlings, keep a soil ball around the roots. After taking out the seedlings, wrap the roots (including the soil ball) in plastic bags, tie them closed, and keep them moist. For seedling specifications, keep 3-5 trunks per clump of young saplings, cut each trunk at 30-50 cm, and knock (cut) off most of the leaves, leaving only 5-10 half-leaves for afforestation. The seedlings should carry a soil ball. Use hole-digging site preparation, with hole specifications of 60 cm x 60 cm x 50 cm, and a plant-row spacing of 2 m x 2 m, that is, a planting density of 2500 plants/ha. If the soil dug out when making the holes contains too much sand and stone, when backfilling the holes, the bottom of the hole should still be backfilled with the originally dug-out soil, while the upper part of the hole (the planting layer) should be filled with about 30 kg of brought-in soil (soil containing no sand and stone or less than 5% sand and stone). When the surface brought-in soil is moist, or after waiting for rain to moisten the upper layer of soil in the hole, planting can be carried out.

II. Seed propagation method for the rose myrtle

Before sowing, the seeds must first be selected. Whether the seeds are well chosen directly affects whether sowing succeeds. It is best to use seeds harvested in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate. Choose plump seeds with no defects or deformities and no pests or diseases. For home disinfection of seeds, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60°C for a quarter of an hour, then use warm water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it by stirring until hot; any pests and diseases will be scalded to death. Soak the seeds in warm water (at a temperature similar to face-washing water) for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be skipped. For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with the hands or other tools, moisten one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, then cover with substrate 1 cm thick, then place the sowing pot into water with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the pot's height, allowing the water to slowly soak upward (this method is called the "pot immersion method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up with the hands or other tools, place the seeds directly into the substrate and sow them in spots at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness 2-3 times that of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to moisten the sowing substrate. Later, when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds out.

Management after sowing

After sowing in late autumn, early spring, or winter, when a cold wave and low temperatures occur, the flowerpot can be wrapped in plastic film to help keep it warm and moist; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak and spindly; after most of the seeds have sprouted, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space between them; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.

III. Cutting propagation method for the rose myrtle

When doing softwood cuttings, from late spring to early autumn when the plant is growing vigorously, select robust current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, choose the sturdy parts and cut them into sections 5-15 cm long, each section bearing more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made straight across about 1 cm above the topmost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made at an angle about 0.5 cm below the lowest leaf node; both upper and lower cuts should be smooth (the knife must be sharp). When doing hardwood cuttings, after temperatures rise in early spring, select healthy and robust branches as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.

Efficacy and effects of the rose myrtle

1. The fruit of the rose myrtle is a berry-type fruit. This fruit is not large, with a diameter of less than two cm, and its appearance is dark purple, but this fruit contains large amounts of phenolic compounds, flavonoids, amino acids, and various organic acids and other nutrients. After people eat it, it has many benefits for the body and can make up for symptoms of nutritional deficiency.

2. After the root of the rose myrtle is used as medicine, it is also a traditional Chinese medicine with outstanding effects. The greatest effects of this medicine are dispelling wind and invigorating [blood], and astringing to stop diarrhea. It has obvious therapeutic effects on acute and chronic gastroenteritis, stomach pain, and indigestion in humans. In addition, the root of this plant can also treat hepatitis, dysentery, and various rheumatic bone diseases, and also has certain therapeutic effects on lumbar muscle strain and uterine bleeding.

3. The fruit of the rose myrtle also has certain medicinal value. The iron content in this fruit is very high. After humans eat it, it can play a blood-nourishing role and reduce the occurrence of anemia in humans. In addition, it also has the effect of nourishing and calming the fetus for pregnant women, and can reduce the occurrence of symptoms of restless fetus. Furthermore, the fruit of the rose myrtle also has a nourishing effect on kidney deficiency in men, and can prevent the occurrence of spermatorrhea and tinnitus due to kidney deficiency.

How to care for the rose myrtle in summer and winter?

In summer:

1. Strengthen air convection so that the heat inside the plant can be released;

2. Place it in semi-shade, or provide it with 50% shade;

3. Give it appropriate misting, 2-3 times a day.

In winter:

1. Move it indoors to a bright place for care;

2. Outdoors, it can be wrapped in plastic film to overwinter, but every two days at the higher noon temperature the film should be uncovered to let it breathe.

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