How to propagate Rieger begonia? An introduction to common propagation methods

Rieger begonia has a long flowering period and a unique fragrance, making it a relatively rare greenhouse potted ornamental flower. After variety improvement, Rieger begonia is extremely popular in European and American countries. The most commonly used propagation method for Rieger begonia is cuttings, and it can also be propagated by sowing and tissue culture. The editor will now introduce these three propagation methods of Rieger begonia in detail for you.

Rieger begonia

1. Cuttings

Rieger begonia can be propagated not only by stem cuttings but also by leaf cuttings. For stem cuttings, the length of the stem should be moderate, and the lower part of the stem should be cut into a horseshoe shape with a blade. For leaf cuttings, choose vigorous leaves that are about six-tenths mature, and cut the lower end of the petiole at an angle with a blade. The cutting medium is vermiculite powder or plain sand. Contaminated medium must be disinfected before use. After inserting the cuttings, water thoroughly, but do not let water accumulate on the leaf surface. Then cover them with plastic film, place them in a spot with scattered light, provide proper ventilation, and avoid high temperatures. The cuttings can take root in about 3 weeks.

When new leaves appear, it means roots have formed. Plants obtained by stem cuttings do not have underground tubers. After 3 weeks, leaf cuttings can also grow fibrous roots from the lower part of the petiole, but it takes another month and a half for adventitious buds to grow from the lower part of the petiole and gradually emerge from the soil. Photo 2 shows a plant cultivated from leaf cuttings.

2. Sowing

1. Sowing: Because the seeds are very small, the small-seed sowing method must be used. At present, Rieger begonia seeds are basically all imported, divided into coated pellets and uncoated pellets. It is best to mail-order seeds in original packaging and without damage from a large flower and plant company, as this can ensure germination and seedling formation. Loose seeds are very difficult to germinate.

2. Sowing container: Because coated pellet seeds can be sorted, plug trays can be used; uncoated pellet seeds can only use seedling trays. The sowing medium is 1 part peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder, crushed and disinfected, then mixed and stirred, and kept in a semi-moist state for use. Because peat soil is water-repellent in a dry state and cannot absorb water, it cannot be used in a dry state. When sowing, first put the medium into the seedling tray, then water thoroughly with a spray pot. Coated pellet seeds can be sorted with tweezers, one pellet per cell; uncoated pellet seeds can be mixed with an appropriate amount of fine vermiculite powder and broadcast in the seedling tray.

After sowing, there is no need to cover with soil in either case; just spray with a fine spray pot, then wrap the seedling tray with transparent plastic film. At an ambient temperature of about 20°C, seedlings begin to emerge in about 12 days. When the seedlings grow true leaves, you can give them a little ventilation to encourage root development. The seedlings grow very slowly in the first 3 months. For seedlings sown in early summer, there is no need to remove the plastic film throughout the summer; the seedlings tolerate high humidity and high temperatures.

After the Beginning of Autumn, when the weather becomes cooler, the plastic film can be gradually removed to harden the seedlings, and by early winter they can be potted. Use smaller flower pots with many holes in the bottom. The growing medium can be prepared by mixing 2 parts peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder (or 1 part plain sand). Before potting, control watering so that the growing medium in the seedling tray is in a semi-dry state, so that when lifting the seedlings the root ball will not fall apart and damage the roots. Newly potted seedlings must be protected from excessive temperature changes, and at the same time covered with plastic film, but it must not be too tightly sealed; proper ventilation is needed to prevent seedling rot.

Under household conditions, they cannot grow into large plants in the first year, but flowers can be seen; only in the second year can they be grown into large plants. In the second year, they can be repotted into larger flower pots.

3. Tissue culture

This is an effective method for quickly obtaining large numbers of flower seedlings, and it can also be successful under household conditions. In the season of vigorous growth, use well-developed leaves as explants. Through the culture of virus-free explants, subculture, and rooting culture in a certain medium, large numbers of virus-free seedlings can be obtained. This method requires a relatively large investment and is only used in large-scale production.

How to propagate Rieger begonia: propagation methods for Rieger begonia

In late autumn and early winter, when pruning and shaping Rieger begonia, the newly grown shoots that are cut off can be used as cuttings. Do you know how to propagate Rieger begonia? Let us take a look together at the propagation methods of Rieger begonia below.

Rieger begonia propagation mainly includes three methods: sowing, cuttings, and tissue culture. The most commonly used is generally the cutting method. In late autumn and early winter, when pruning and shaping Rieger begonia, the newly grown shoots that are cut off can be used as cuttings.

1. Cutting method for Rieger begonia

Rieger begonia can be propagated not only by stem cuttings but also by leaf cuttings. For stem cuttings, the length of the stem should be moderate, and the lower part of the stem should be cut into a horseshoe shape with a blade. For Rieger begonia leaf cuttings, choose vigorous leaves that are about six-tenths mature, and cut the lower end of the petiole at an angle with a blade.

The cutting medium for Rieger begonia is vermiculite powder or plain sand. Contaminated medium must be disinfected before use. After inserting the cuttings, water thoroughly, but do not let water accumulate on the leaf surface. Then cover them with plastic film, place them in a spot with scattered light, provide proper ventilation, and avoid high temperatures. The cuttings can take root in about 3 weeks.

When new leaves grow from the stems of Rieger begonia, it means roots have formed. Rieger begonia obtained by stem cuttings do not have underground tubers. After 3 weeks, leaf cuttings can also grow fibrous roots from the lower part of the petiole, but it takes another month and a half for adventitious buds to grow from the lower part of the petiole and gradually emerge from the soil.

2. Sowing method

Because Rieger begonia seeds are very small, the small-seed sowing method must be used. At present, Rieger begonia seeds are basically all imported, divided into coated pellets and uncoated pellets. It is best to mail-order seeds in original packaging and without damage from a large flower and plant company, as this can ensure germination and seedling formation. Loose seeds are very difficult to germinate.

Sowing container: Because Rieger begonia coated pellet seeds can be sorted, plug trays can be used; uncoated pellet seeds can only use seedling trays. The sowing medium is 1 part peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder, crushed and disinfected, then mixed and stirred, and kept in a semi-moist state for use.

Because peat soil is water-repellent in a dry state and cannot absorb water, it cannot be used in a dry state. When sowing, first put the medium into the seedling tray, then water thoroughly with a spray pot. Coated pellet seeds can be sorted with tweezers, one pellet per cell; uncoated pellet seeds can be mixed with an appropriate amount of fine vermiculite powder and broadcast in the seedling tray.

After sowing Rieger begonia, there is no need to cover with soil in either case; just spray with a fine spray pot, then wrap the seedling tray with transparent plastic film. At an ambient temperature of about 20°C, seedlings begin to emerge in about 12 days. When Rieger begonia seedlings grow true leaves, you can give them a little ventilation to encourage root development.

Rieger begonia seedlings grow very slowly in the first 3 months. For seedlings sown in early summer, there is no need to remove the plastic film throughout the summer; the seedlings tolerate high humidity and high temperatures. After the Beginning of Autumn, when the weather becomes cooler, the plastic film can be gradually removed to harden the seedlings, and by early winter they can be potted.

For potting, use smaller flower pots with many holes in the bottom. The growing medium can be prepared by mixing 2 parts peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder (or 1 part plain sand). Before potting, control watering so that the growing medium in the seedling tray is in a semi-dry state, so that when lifting the seedlings the root ball will not fall apart and damage the roots.

Newly potted Rieger begonia seedlings must be protected from excessive temperature changes, and at the same time covered with plastic film, but it must not be too tightly sealed; proper ventilation is needed to prevent seedling rot. Under household conditions, Rieger begonia cannot grow into large plants in the first year, but flowers can be seen; only in the second year can they be grown into large plants. In the second year, they can be repotted into larger flower pots.

3. Tissue culture

This is an effective method for quickly obtaining large numbers of Rieger begonia flower seedlings, and it can also be successful under household conditions. In the season of vigorous growth of Rieger begonia, use well-developed leaves as explants. Through the culture of virus-free explants, subculture, and rooting culture in a certain medium, large numbers of virus-free seedlings can be obtained. This method requires a relatively large investment and is only used in large-scale production.

Cutting as a propagation method for Rieger begonia



Rieger begonia

Rieger begonia is a flowering plant that likes warmth and moisture, and is mainly distributed in tropical and subtropical regions. Cuttings are a relatively commonly used propagation method. When choosing the cutting propagation method, we need to first understand some characteristics of Rieger begonia, which will make it easier to succeed with cuttings.

Rieger begonia likes to grow in a well-ventilated environment. It also has very strict requirements for light, temperature, water, and fertilizer. If using the cutting method, it must be chosen in late autumn and early winter. Because in this season, it is time to prune and shape the plant, and the newly grown shoots can be cut off as cuttings. Rieger begonia can be propagated by stem cuttings or leaf cuttings, depending on personal preference. If you choose stem cuttings, then the length of the stem should be moderate, and the lower part of the stem should be cut into a horseshoe shape with a blade. If you choose leaf cuttings, then choose vigorous leaves that are about six-tenths mature. Through the simple introduction above, this article teaches everyone through a flower enthusiast's summary of their own experience with Rieger begonia cuttings. This makes it easier for beginner flower enthusiasts to learn.

The mother plant selected for Rieger begonia cuttings must be healthy. According to the results of multiple experiments, those that have already contracted stem rot are not suitable for cuttings. Unhealthy stems will have small black spots on the cut surface, and those will rot quickly. The stems used for cuttings are divided into sections. Mine are sturdy stems about ten centimeters long. Leaves can also be rooted from cuttings, though of course they will not grow as well as sturdy stems, and you will have to wait quite a while for them to sprout, and the plant shape will certainly take shape very slowly.

Medium mixing: You can use pure vermiculite, or add half a handful of perlite. Pure perlite can also grow roots, but it does not hold the plant firmly. With pure vermiculite, after rooting and transplanting it is not easy to shake the vermiculite clean from the roots, so you can mix them at a 1:1 ratio.

Cut the stems at an angle of about 45° with a blade (for leaf cuttings, pay attention to the angle, with the cut surface facing upward), then be sure to let them sit in a cool, shaded place for 10 minutes (the time can be flexible), and insert them after the cut surface has dried.

Finally, after inserting them, water thoroughly and place them in a humidity box. This one is homemade for holding violet seedlings, but you can also use a transparent storage box, or place them in a deep box and cover the top with plastic wrap, and put them in a bright place without direct sunlight. Just maintain the temperature in the range of 10-25 degrees. On my balcony, the coldest nighttime temperature is 10 degrees, and they still survive.

Reviewing failures and successes, the lessons summarized are: it is not easy to root cuttings in summer, autumn and winter are both fine, and cuttings that survive in spring face the dangerous dormant period in summer, so autumn and winter cuttings are recommended. Then, the cut surface must be cut cleanly in one stroke with a sharp blade, the medium must be thoroughly soaked, and finally humidity retention is key, otherwise the leaves will wilt early. Humidity is best kept at 80. The cuttings I used to make always had a lot of water droplets on the film. They grow roots in 20-30 days, and after 2 months they can be transplanted into loose, breathable soil, preferably a mixed medium of peat plus a little vermiculite and perlite.