A Detailed Guide to Clivia Seed Sowing Propagation and Tissue Culture Methods
Because clivia has relatively high ornamental value, clivia seedlings can be somewhat expensive, but gardening enthusiasts who want to try growing clivia themselves will choose other propagation methods. The editor will introduce the sowing and tissue culture methods of clivia for you; friends who like clivia can learn about them together.
Because clivia has relatively high ornamental value, clivia seedlings can be somewhat expensive, but gardening enthusiasts who want to try growing clivia themselves will choose other propagation methods. The editor will introduce the sowing and tissue culture methods of clivia for you; friends who like clivia can learn about them together.
Clivia
1. A new sowing method. First put 1/3 decomposed horse manure soil into the sowing pot, spread 2/3 clean river sand on top, then place the seeds that have already been soaked in constant-temperature water of 30-40°C for 12-24 hours on top, and then cover with a thin layer of sterilized river sand.
After sowing, place the pot on bottom heat, a heated kang, or an electric blanket, keeping the bottom temperature at 20-30°C; too high or too low is not good for seed germination. Seedlings raised by this method germinate quickly, generally producing radicles in about 3 days, while conventional propagation requires 25-30 days.
2. Tissue culture method. This method uses seeds at the milk-ripe stage as material; after routine disinfection and sterilization, under certain temperature and light conditions, it induces different organs to produce callus tissue, and the callus tissue is inoculated on a culture medium with added hormones to produce new plants. Through this method, a large number of superior varieties can be propagated in a short period, and it is a good method for rapid propagation of clivia.
How Does Clivia Propagate? Clivia Propagation Methods
Clivia generally uses only two propagation methods. One is sexual propagation of clivia, that is, pollination using the sowing method to propagate clivia, which is currently a relatively common method; the second is asexual propagation of clivia, that is, division propagation, crown cutting propagation, etc., which is the propagation method most easily mastered by gardening enthusiasts. Below, the editor will introduce in detail how clivia propagates and the propagation methods of clivia.
I. Sexual Propagation Methods of Clivia
1. Cross-pollination: close-relative hybridization and distant hybridization. Close-relative hybridization genes are relatively stable, and offspring variation is small; while distant hybridization genes are unstable, and offspring variation is large. When the F1 generation appears, the progeny of the F1 generation will seriously degenerate, and the F1 generation must be backcrossed with its male parent or female parent. Only after several generations can the genes become stable. The pollination method and sowing method are mostly familiar, so the process is omitted.
2. Self-pollination: The seed-setting rate of self-pollination is low, and the germination rate is not high. It is mainly used to propagate the male parent and maintain the inherent characteristics of the male parent (the male parent cannot be used as the female parent for cross-pollination).
II. Asexual Propagation Methods of Clivia
1. Division propagation: During the vegetative growth stage, clivia generally does not sprout offsets; only when it enters the reproductive growth stage does it produce offsets from the rhizome area. When the offset has 4 leaves, carry out division in spring or autumn together with repotting; break or cut off the offset, disinfect the wound, and plant it separately.
2. Crown cutting propagation: Leave two leaves on the pseudobulb and cut off the top. With the growth point removed, the root system continues to supply nutrients, and the retained leaves continue to produce nutrients; after half a year, multiple offsets grow around the pseudobulb. In my experiment, the pseudobulb produced 8 offsets at the same time. When the offsets have 4 leaves, use a sharp knife in spring or autumn to divide the pseudobulb, keeping each piece with an offset and roots, disinfect the wounds, and plant them separately.
3. Cuttage propagation of leafy pseudobulbs: Sources of cuttings include the top cut off during crown cutting propagation, plants whose root systems were cut off when old clivia was rejuvenated, and plants with rotted root systems. Disinfect and remove excess leaves to basically maintain a balance between aboveground consumption and underground supply. Insert cuttings into substrates such as coarse river sand, vermiculite, perlite, or furnace slag. After a few months, they root and are planted separately.
4. Leaf cuttage propagation: Inspired by the successful leaf cuttage of Haemanthus in the Amaryllidaceae family, I experimented with cuttage of clivia leaves; they rooted only after one year, so it is estimated that leaf cuttage is feasible.
5. Root propagation without leaves: The root systems left after rejuvenating old clivia and those left after bacterial diseases or mealybug damage, after wound disinfection, are still kept in the original pot. Because there are no green leaves, transpiration is small, so water appropriately less; it takes half a year to grow multiple offsets. Likewise, when they have 4 leaves, divide and plant them separately.
6. Root cuttage propagation: Each root with a small piece of pseudobulb at the top is inserted into substrates such as river sand; after half a year, offsets grow and are planted separately. The ones I planted have already succeeded.
7. Tissue culture: Use the totipotency of plant cells to propagate clivia. Roughly speaking, explants are organs such as clivia roots, stems, leaves, flowers, fruits, and seeds. In more detailed subdivision, selected parts include root tips, stem tips, young leaves, scapes, flower stalks, corollas, styles, stigmas, filaments, anthers, pollen (haploids can be cultured and then doubled into polyploids), ovules, ovaries, ovary walls, young fruits, young seeds, plumules, hypocotyls, cotyledons, radicles, and endosperm.
The above is the article on how clivia propagates and clivia propagation methods. Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus; this kind of soil has good air permeability, good water permeability, and fertile texture, and is slightly acidic (pH6.5). Generally, the soil mix for clivia is 6 parts leaf mold, 2 parts pine needles, 1 part river sand or furnace ash slag, and 1 part base fertilizer (hemp seed, etc.). In addition, clivia must also be fertilized appropriately to ensure sufficient nutrition.
Clivia Cultivation Methods | Clivia Pictures
Introduction to CliviaClivia belongs to the Amaryllidaceae family. Clivia is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Clivia, with a flowering period of 30-50 days, mainly in winter and spring, and it also blooms around New Year's Day to the Spring Festival. It dislikes strong light and is a semi-shade plant; it likes cool conditions and dislikes high temperatures. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C, and growth stops below 5°C. It likes fertile, well-drained soil and moisture, and dislikes dry environments. Clivia has very high ornamental value. Its plant is elegant and clivia is handsome, with the demeanor of a gentleman, and its flowers are like orchids, hence the name. The roots are fleshy and fibrous, and the leaf bases form a pseudobulb; the leaves are sword-shaped, can reach 45 cm long, are alternately arranged, and have entire margins. The umbel inflorescence is terminal, and each inflorescence has 7-30 florets, with some reaching more than 40. The florets have stalks and are arranged in an umbel at the top of the flower; the flowers are funnel-shaped, upright, and yellow or orange-yellow. It can bloom throughout the year, mainly in spring and summer. The fruit maturation period is around October. Both flowers and leaves are beautiful. It is attractive and elegant, and also shade-tolerant; it is suitable for potted indoor display, for foliage and flowers, and is also an ideal potted flower for arranging conference venues and decorating hotel environments. It also has the function of purifying air and medicinal value, and is a preferred variety for people. Clivia Cultivation Methods
The normal growth, development, flowering, and fruiting of clivia are inseparable from the environmental conditions for growth. Suitable for clivia growth, good environmental conditions can meet the needs of each growth and development stage of the plant and promote its robust growth. Conversely, it will affect the normal growth and development of the plant. The environmental conditions for clivia mainly include five elements: temperature, light, soil, water, and fertilizer. Temperature Requirements：
The place of origin of clivia is in the mountainous forest areas of southern subtropical Africa, where the four seasons are warm like spring. The annual average minimum temperature is not lower than 10°C, the maximum temperature does not exceed 22°C, and the annual precipitation is 500-1500 mm. The growth and development of all clivia organs have adapted to this natural environment that is neither cold nor hot, neither wet nor dry. Therefore, when cultivating artificially, it is also necessary to create a natural environment similar to the place of origin, so that the plant can grow and develop better. The optimal temperature for artificial cultivation should be controlled at 15-25°C. When the temperature drops below 10°C, the plant's growth and development slow down; when it drops to 5°C, growth and development are inhibited; when the temperature drops below 0°C, in mild cases the leaves are frostbitten, and in severe cases the whole plant freezes to death. When the temperature exceeds 30°C, the leaves become leggy, thin, long, soft, and thin. If the humidity is low, the leaves will wilt and yellow, and in severe cases the whole plant wilts, dries, and dies. When the summer temperature exceeds 30°C, ventilation and cooling are needed.
Clivia plants of different sizes also have different suitable temperature requirements. Seedlings require relatively higher temperatures. This is because the seedlings are small and have strong growth power; higher temperatures are beneficial for rapid growth during the seedling stage. Seedlings need a smaller temperature difference, and the seedling growth temperature should be controlled at 20-30°C. Below 15°C, new leaves grow slowly; below 10°C, new leaves grow very slowly and are prone to growing chicken-tongue leaves, that is, new leaves that are slender and pointed. For one-year-old small seedlings, the temperature should be controlled at 20-25°C. For two-year-old large seedlings, the temperature should be controlled at 15-25°C. For adult clivia, the temperature should be controlled at 15-25°C. For adult clivia, especially during the winter scape-emerging season, the temperature can be between 10-25°C, artificially creating a relatively large temperature difference, which is extremely beneficial for the flower scape to emerge and prevents scape clamping. Temperature difference is the difference between the highest and lowest temperatures in the environment, and also refers to the temperature difference between day and night. Temperature difference can regulate the plant's absorption rate of nutrients, which is more beneficial to the plant's growth and development. It is beneficial for the full absorption of leaf nutrients in clivia. Temperature is one of the main conditions for the robust growth of clivia. The difference between clivia grown on windowsills and clivia cultivated in flower cellars is often clearly shown in the temperature difference. Flower cellars have large temperature differences, while windowsills have small temperature differences. Especially in winter, clivia grown on windowsills has almost no temperature difference. Plants cultivated in flower cellars are superior to plants cultivated on windowsills in several aspects such as leaf brightness and color. Plants cultivated on windowsills may have poor leaf gloss, drooping leaves, and are prone to scape clamping. Temperature also has a certain effect on plant photosynthesis and respiration. Plant photosynthesis and respiration are two interdependent processes; photosynthesis is the process of synthesizing organic matter and storing energy, while respiration is the process of decomposing organic matter. Temperature has a direct effect on photosynthesis and respiration. Within the suitable temperature range, plant growth, metabolism, and absorption speed are related to temperature. When temperature is high, metabolism speeds up and plants grow rapidly; when temperature is low, metabolism is slow and plant growth also slows down. When temperature and light are insufficient, plants find it difficult to maintain life. The state of leaf growth is also different at different temperatures. In summer high temperatures, leaves tend to grow long, that is, slender. But in spring, autumn, and winter, especially in winter when the temperature difference is artificially controlled, newly grown leaves are wide and short. Temperature also has a great effect on the flowering period. If the temperature is too high, the flowering period is shorter; if the temperature is low, the flowering period is longer. In summer when the high temperature is above 30°C, the flowering period may last 15-20 days. In winter flowering period, when the temperature is 10-15°C, the flowering period can reach more than 30 days. The most suitable temperature for the flowering period is 15-25°C. Within this temperature range, a relatively large temperature difference is beneficial for scape emergence. The flowers produced are large and brightly colored, and the fruit-setting rate is high. Therefore, temperature can control the length and timing of the flowering period.
Water Requirements: Water is an indispensable important element for the existence of plant life; without water, no plant can survive. The annual precipitation in the place of origin of clivia is 500-1500 mm, but the rainfall in each month is uneven. Precipitation from May to September is relatively low, precipitation from October to April of the following year is relatively high, and precipitation from November to February of the following year is even higher. As a result, the plant has adapted to this environment of dry and wet changes. When there is much water, both leaves and roots can store a certain amount of water. Once soil moisture decreases, the plant body can still use the stored water to maintain life and endure the dry season.
Water is the raw material for photosynthesis in clivia plants, and it is also the carrier for absorbing and transporting nutrients. Chemical elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the soil can only be absorbed by the plant's roots after dissolving in water. Organic matter produced by leaves must be dissolved in water before it can be transported to the various organs and tissues of the plant. Water is an important constituent substance in the plant body. The water content in the roots of clivia plants accounts for about 91%, while the water content in the leaves accounts for about 90%, slightly lower than the water content of the roots. Therefore, only when there is sufficient water in the clivia plant body can the cells and tissues in the body carry out normal physiological activities. If there is a lack of water, the plant will wilt, and the leaves will droop.
Clivia requires water with a neutral pH value, that is, a pH value of 6.5-7, which meets the plant's growth and development requirements.
Do not treat watering clivia as a trivial matter, because this is a key issue in whether clivia is cultivated well. Watering clivia cannot be done dogmatically or uniformly; the time of watering and the amount of water must be decided according to changes in season and weather. Do not water as soon as the surface soil looks dry, causing water accumulation in the pot. To check how much water is in the pot, tap the pot wall with the knuckle of the index finger; if the sound is crisp, there is little water in the pot; if the sound is dull, it indicates the pot is moist. Another method is to lift the pot and judge based on past experience. If the potting soil is relatively heavy, it is not short of water; if the potting soil is relatively light, it indicates a lack of water. To water thoroughly, the potting soil must be loose and breathable and have good water retention. If the potting soil is compacted and dried into a mass, no matter how much water you pour or how many times you pour it, the water will flow along the pot wall to the bottom of the pot. It will all flow out from the bottom hole, and the root system will not be watered at all. If you mistakenly think the water has been thoroughly applied, then clivia will soon be in a drought state, and over time the plant will wilt; in mild cases, the root system shrivels, and in severe cases the whole plant dies.
The time of watering is related to the season. In spring and winter, flower cellars and indoor spaces in the north all need heating, and the temperature at night is relatively high; morning is the time when the temperature is lowest in the day, so it is best to water flowers in the morning. This is because the temperature of the water stored in the flower cellar is close to the temperature of the potting soil, which is beneficial to plant growth. In summer and autumn, no heating is needed, and the weather is hot with relatively high temperatures.
For the water requirement of clivia plants during growth, the humidity in the potting soil must be maintained at about 40%. Simply emphasizing "see dry, see wet" is unscientific; it should be flexibly controlled according to changes in season and climate. In spring, it should be relatively generous and thorough; in summer, frequent and small; in autumn, neither dry nor wet; in winter, water when dry and stop when wet. Watering clivia should be based on temperature changes, light intensity, and the degree of environmental dryness and wetness, and try to achieve fixed time, fixed amount, and fixed cycle, forming a pattern; do not water whenever you please. One point requiring special attention is that the humidity of the water used for watering must be close to the humidity of the potting soil; otherwise, too large a temperature difference between the water and the potting soil will affect the normal growth of the plant. Some people also use magnetized water, acidic water, oxygenated water, etc. to water clivia. We can gradually experience this in the practice of growing clivia, summarize and explore, and continuously derive new experience.
In short, master the step of watering clivia well, use good water quality suitable for clivia growth, and follow scientific methods, and you will certainly cultivate more robust clivia.
Fertilizer Requirements：
In the process of plant growth and development, a large amount of nutrient elements is needed, and fertilizer is an important source of plant nutrition. The nutrient elements needed in relatively large amounts include carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, etc.; the trace elements needed in smaller amounts include iron, copper, manganese, zinc, boron, chlorine, etc. During the growth and development process of the plant body, once these nutrient elements are lacking, poor development will occur, and in severe cases diseases can be caused.
Plants mainly absorb nutrient elements from soil and fertilizer through roots. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are elements needed by plants in large amounts. The content in the soil alone cannot meet the plant's needs; artificial supplementation is required to ensure healthy plant growth.
The absorption of the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is mainly completed through carbon dioxide in the air and water in the soil. Other elements can be obtained from the nutrient soil.
Nitrogen fertilizer: Nitrogen fertilizer is the main component of protein in clivia plants. It is the most basic substance constituting the plant body. Without nitrogen, protein and protoplasm cannot be produced.
Nitrogen is the main raw material constituting chlorophyll, and chlorophyll is a necessary substance for photosynthesis. Therefore, when nitrogen supply is good, the plant grows vigorously, the leaves are broad and thick, the color is green, the plant is strong, the fruit-setting rate is high, and the seeds are plump.
When nitrogen is deficient, the plant grows slowly, is short and weak, the leaves are narrow and thin, the flowering period is late, fruit setting is reduced, and the lower leaves turn yellow. But when nitrogen fertilizer is applied excessively, the leaves become soft and thin and droop, disease resistance weakens, and pests and diseases are likely to occur. For nitrogen fertilizer application in clivia, the principle of appropriate amount must be mastered.
Commonly used nitrogen fertilizers for clivia include: decomposed soybean cake, peanut, peanut cake, castor bean, sesame, sesame oil residue, cottonseed cake, etc. Freshwater fish offal is also a relatively good nitrogen fertilizer. These fertilizers must be fully fermented and decomposed before use.
Phosphorus fertilizer: Phosphorus is the main component constituting the cytoplasm and nucleus of clivia plant cells. It can promote cell division and reproduction. It makes new roots and seedlings develop and grow quickly, and adult clivia plants bloom earlier and set more fruit, with plump seeds; phosphorus can enhance photosynthesis.
Phosphorus can make stems and leaves tough and enhance disease resistance. When the plant lacks phosphorus, roots and seedlings grow slowly, and old leaves at the stem base turn purplish red or dark green. It affects the growth and development of reproductive organs. Phenomena such as delayed flowering, few fruit seeds, and lack of plumpness appear.
Commonly used phosphorus fertilizers for clivia include: bone meal (without salt), fish scales, rice bran, etc.; they can be used after fermentation and decomposition.
Potassium fertilizer: Potassium is one of the elements with relatively high content in the clivia plant body, and its content is highest in young seedling leaves and root tips. It can promote the plant's absorption of nitrogen and promote protein formation. Potassium can make the plant's roots thick and strong, and the leaves broad, thick, and upright. The vein patterns are clear and raised, and it can improve the plant's drought resistance and pest and disease resistance. When the plant lacks potassium, the cellulose in the cell walls decreases, the leaves are soft, the vein patterns are not raised, it is susceptible to disease, and yellow-brown spots easily appear on old leaves.
Commonly used potassium fertilizers for clivia include: plant ash, charcoal, rice straw, rice husk ash, etc. Potassium exists in the form of potassium carbonate and is easily soluble in water. The growth of clivia cannot be separated from the three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Their effects on clivia mainly focus on:
Nitrogen fertilizer mainly promotes rapid plant growth, luxuriant plant and leaves, and broad leaves, with an obvious effect on leaf growth.
Phosphorus fertilizer mainly promotes bright flower color, plump fruit, high seed-setting rate, and early flowering. Its effect on flowers and fruits is obvious.
Potassium fertilizer increases leaf rigidity and promotes robust root growth, with an obvious effect on the root system. The three elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are essential nutrient elements for the clivia plant body, and each has a unique effect. They cannot replace each other and must be applied in combination.
Organic fertilizer is the fertilizer most used by clivia growers. Organic fertilizer has little irritation to the root system, is easy to absorb, has stable fertilizer efficiency, and is convenient to use, suitable for public needs.
Chemical fertilizer is a quick-acting fertilizer, with fast fertilizer effect and short duration. Slight improper application can produce side effects such as root burn and yellow leaves. During cultivation, try not to use it, or conduct small-scale trials to gain experience before using it extensively.
Light Requirements：
Light is the energy source for plant photosynthesis. Light is an indispensable condition for the growth of various plants, and it has a very important effect on the growth of clivia. There is a kind of phytochrome in the plant body; under the action of light, a series of physiological and biochemical reactions occur in the plant body. Clivia relies on chlorophyll in the plant body to absorb sunlight, synthesizing organic matter such as sugars from carbon dioxide and water, so that the clivia plant can develop normally.
Practice has proved that clivia grown in flower cellars, because of sufficient light, has light-colored, slightly yellow leaves, broad leaves, strong contrast, obvious flower face, and raised vein patterns. While flowers grown indoors are small, light-colored, with dark leaf color, and poor growth.
In the cultivation of clivia, not only oblique light is needed, but more importantly, overhead light is needed. This increases the leaf area receiving light and enhances photosynthesis. The most suitable temperature for clivia photosynthesis is 20-30°C. When the temperature exceeds 40°C, photosynthesis tends to stop. Therefore, in summer, prevent light from being too strong, and in winter, improve the utilization rate of light.
In midsummer with strong light and high temperature, shading should be adopted to control light. The best light seasons for clivia are September and October and March and April. At this time, the temperature is neither cold nor hot, the light is suitable, and it is also the season for changing soil. During this period, the plant will show two growth peaks. Plants in flower cellars, because heating and insulation measures are taken in winter, can also meet light needs and will show the best growth stage, which is also the peak flowering season. Pay attention to light and use light scientifically, and only then can clivia have spreading leaves, raised vein patterns, glossy leaf surfaces, and an upright plant.
Conditions Suitable for Clivia Cultivation
Clivia likes a cool and humid climate. In summer, if clivia is to grow well, measures must be taken to create conditions conducive to clivia growth.
Shading: In summer, place it under an outdoor shade shed. If direct sunlight can be blocked at noon, while sunlight can still be seen in the early morning and evening, that is ideal.
Cooling: In addition to placing clivia in a ventilated place, also place the clivia pot on a water pool or water platform (raised with wooden boards), and frequently spray water around the placement area and on the plant leaves, so that clivia grows in a small environment below 25°C with 60-70% humidity.
Reducing fertilizer: When the temperature at the clivia cultivation site is above 25°C, appropriately reduce or stop fertilizing to avoid excessive fertilization burning the fleshy roots. If more fertilizer was applied in spring, in summer half of the potting soil can be replaced from the upper part, and then replaced again after the Start of Autumn. If the temperature can be lowered below 20°C, fertilization can still continue as usual.
Watering: Adhere to the principle of watering when half-dry, and watering thoroughly once you water. Never let water flow into the leaf center, so as to avoid rotten heart disease and cause "beheading".
Pest prevention: If harmed by scale insects, use 1000-1500 times diluted dichlorvos solution and spray the leaf surface.
①Suitable Soil:
Clivia is suitable for soil rich in humus; this kind of soil has good air permeability, good water permeability, and fertile texture, and is slightly acidic (pH6.5). Mixing about 20% sand grains into the humus soil is beneficial for root cultivation. When cultivating, the pot size should gradually increase as the plant grows. When cultivating one-year-old seedlings, a 3-inch pot is suitable. In the second year, change to a 5-inch pot. After that, change to a pot one size larger every 1-2 years. Repotting can be carried out in spring and autumn. ②Appropriate Watering:
Clivia has relatively well-developed fleshy roots, and a certain amount of water is stored in the roots [2], so this flower is relatively drought-tolerant. However, drought-tolerant flowers cannot be severely short of water, especially in summer when high temperatures are combined with dry air; do not forget to water in time, otherwise the roots and leaves of the flower will be damaged, causing new leaves to fail to sprout and the original leaves to scorch, which not only affects flowering but may even cause plant death. However, too much watering will also cause root rot. Therefore, it must be well controlled; always pay attention to the dry and wet conditions of the potting soil, and water once when it becomes half-dry, but the amount should not be too much; keeping the potting soil moist but not soggy is just right. So, exactly how many days should there be between waterings? Under general conditions, water once a day in spring; in summer, use a fine watering can to water the leaf surface and surrounding ground together, and water twice a day on sunny days; in autumn, water once every other day; in winter, water once every other day; in winter, water once a week or less. But it must be noted that this refers to "general conditions." It must be flexibly controlled according to various specific situations. For example, water more on sunny days; water less on cloudy days, and during continuous cloudy days water once every few days; do not water on rainy days. When the temperature is high and the air is dry, water several times a day; for large flower pots, because the soil stores a large amount of water and does not dry easily, water less; for small flower pots, water evaporates easily, so water appropriately more. If the flower pot is placed in a well-ventilated place where evaporation is easy, water appropriately more; in places with poor ventilation, slow evaporation, and high air humidity, water less. During the seedling stage, water less; during the flowering stage, water more. In short, decide according to specific conditions, with the principle of ensuring the potting soil is soft and moist and not too dry or too wet. If conditions permit, magnetized water is of course best; next is rainwater, snow water, or running water from rivers; next is pond water; the worst is tap water. Flower growers living in large cities only have tap water available, so they can use a small water tank, basin, or bucket, put the tap water in it, and water after 2-3 days. This can allow some harmful impurities in the water to settle. In addition, it can allow the substances contained in the water to be oxidized and purified, and can make the water temperature close to the humidity of the potting soil, so it will not be too cold or too hot and harm the plant. ③Reasonable Fertilization:
Many flowers like fertilizer, but fertilization for fertilizer-loving flowers also has a limit. Excessive fertilization is not good for growth and may even cause plant root rot or scorching. Clivia also belongs to this type of plant, and appropriate fertilization must be achieved. Flowers have different nutrient requirements at different growth and development stages. Therefore, different fertilization methods suitable for the plant's needs should be adopted at each period. Such as base fertilizer, topdressing, and foliar fertilization.
1. Applying base fertilizer (also called basal fertilizer). The purpose is to create conditions for plant growth and development and meet its nutrient needs. Base fertilizer for clivia should be applied when repotting every 2 years. Apply commonly used manure (that is, poultry and livestock manure), compost, green manure, soybean cake fertilizer, etc. into the soil. 2. Topdressing. It mainly promotes plant growth. Clivia can be given fertilizers such as cake fertilizer, fish meal, and bone meal. Apply less at the initial planting, and later as the plant grows and leaves increase, the amount of fertilizer should gradually increase. When fertilizing, uncover the potting soil and apply it 2-3 cm deep into the soil, but note that the fertilizer applied should not be too close to the root system, so as not to burn the root system. Applying this kind of solid fertilizer once a month is generally enough; it should not be more frequent. 3. Applying liquid fertilizer as topdressing. Liquid fertilizer topdressing is to mix the fully decomposed supernatant liquid of soaked and composted animal and plant materials with 30-40 times clear water and then pour it onto the potting soil. For small seedlings, it is suitable to dilute with 40 times water; for medium seedlings, 30 times water; for large seedlings, only 20 times water. After applying the fertilizer liquid, water once with clear water 1-2 days later (the amount of water should not be too much), so that the fertilizer penetrates to the roots in the potting soil and fully exerts its fertilizer effect. Do not water 1-2 days before applying liquid fertilizer; let the potting soil become relatively dry before applying the fertilizer liquid, which is more effective. The best time to fertilize is early morning; when applying, the fertilizer liquid should be poured along the edge of the pot, and care should be taken to avoid applying it on the plant and leaves. In addition, the type of fertilizer should also be chosen according to the season. For example, in spring and winter, it is suitable to apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, such as fish meal, bone meal, and hemp cake, which are beneficial for vein formation and improving leaf glossiness; while in autumn, it is suitable to apply decomposed soaking liquid of animal hair, horns, hooves, or soybean cake, diluted with 30-40 times clear water and then poured, to promote leaf growth. 4. Foliar topdressing. Fertilizing by this method is mainly to make up for the deficiency of nutrients in the soil, to solve the problem of nutrient deficiency in the plant body, so that seedlings grow quickly and flowers and fruits grow plump. Foliar fertilization is to spray the diluted fertilizer liquid directly on the plant leaves with a mist sprayer, allowing nutrient elements to penetrate through leaf epidermal cells and stomata into the leaf tissues and then be transported throughout the plant. Commonly used fertilizer types include urea, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, superphosphate, etc. When spraying, spray evenly on both the front and back sides of the leaves. Spray once every 4-6 days during the growing season, and once every 2 weeks during semi-dormancy. Generally spray after sunrise, and stop application after the plant blooms. It must be noted that this method can only be used when the plant is found to be deficient in fertilizer. If the plant has sufficient nutrition and grows vigorously, it should not be used.
Basic Clivia Cultivation Techniques
Brief Cultivation History and Flower Culture. Clivia was discovered around 1828 in the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa. It was introduced from South Africa to Europe in the 1820s, and was introduced from Germany to China in the mid-19th century. At that time, apart from cultivation for ornament in the concession in Qingdao, Chinese people rarely saw it. Later, Japanese people gave clivia to the Manchu emperor. At the time, a variety given by a palace chef to a dye factory was called "Dye Factory"; for a variety spread from a temple, people named it "Monk" in memory of the monk who cultivated it. In recent years, due to the careful cultivation of professionals and enthusiasts, new varieties have continuously appeared, becoming one of the most popular flowers for a time, and even today clivia's reputation has not diminished from those years. The name clivia first gives people a feeling of reverence; people imply that clivia has the character of being strong and unyielding against power.
Key Points of Propagation and Cultivation. It can be propagated by sowing, division, and tissue culture. Apart from breeding new varieties or obtaining variant varieties from naturally hybridized seedlings, seed propagation is not as fast as division in producing mature plants and flowering early. Division propagation is a widely used propagation method, that is, cutting off the axillary buds produced at the junction of the pseudobulb and roots from the mother plant and cultivating them separately to form new plants. The operation is simple, the survival rate is high, and growth and development are fast; it can bloom in 2-3 years. The best propagation period is after flowering when it enters vigorous growth. In a greenhouse where the temperature is stable between 15-25°C, it can be propagated in all four seasons. Or in September-October, when the fruit is ripe and autumn repotting and soil changing are carried out, axillary buds can be cut for propagation; the pseudobulb can also be cut at the 1/2 point with a knife, and the cut pseudobulb can produce varying numbers of small buds; cutting off the small buds forms new plants. The best time is when the spring temperature is stable at about 20°C, carried out together with soil changing. In addition, explants can also be cut and subjected to steps such as disinfection, inoculation, and root induction to form new plants for tissue culture.
In cultivation management, the humus formed after plant bodies rot is most suitable for clivia growth and development, because it contains relatively sufficient nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, can supply its needs relatively persistently, and has good water retention and heat preservation, which is suitable for clivia. Watering must be mastered appropriately; too much causes water accumulation, causing severe oxygen deficiency, hindering normal plant respiration, and leading to root rot or even death of clivia; if there is too little water, it will cause leaves to wilt or even dry up until death. Therefore, watering should apply dilute liquid fertilizer to the potting soil, and the amount and time of watering should be controlled according to temperature changes and the strength of plant growth. The minimum temperature for clivia growth is 10°C, the optimum temperature is 15-25°C, and the maximum limit is 30°C; above 30°C it will enter semi-dormancy, and a day-night temperature difference of 8-12°C is most suitable for clivia growth. When overwintering through summer, it must be placed under a shade shed to avoid direct strong light burning the leaves, and sometimes water should be sprayed to cool it down. In winter, it needs to be brought indoors to overwinter and receive sunlight. When the winter temperature is at its lowest, 6-10°C should be maintained so it will not freeze. The day-night temperature difference should preferably be 8-10°C, and the room temperature should preferably be 15°C.