How do orchids reproduce? An introduction to two commonly used propagation methods

Orchids have a pleasant fragrance, and people throughout the ages have held them in very high regard, giving them the fine name "gentleman among flowers." Their roots, leaves, flowers, fruits and seeds all have certain medicinal value, so their economic value is very high. Friends who love orchids often want to propagate an orchid of their own by hand, so how exactly should propagation be carried out?

Orchid

I. Division propagation

This can be done in both spring and autumn, generally dividing once every three years. Any plant that grows vigorously with densely clustered pseudobulbs can be divided, and after division each clump must retain at least 5 pseudobulbs connected together. Before division, reduce watering so the potting soil is fairly dry. When repotting after division, first cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, then spread a layer of coarse gravel to occupy 1/5 to 1/4 of the pot's depth, then add coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and finally plant in sandy loam rich in humus. The planting depth should be such that the pseudobulbs are just barely buried in the soil, leave a 2cm rim at the edge of the pot, spread Selaginella uncinata or fine gravel on top, and finally water thoroughly, place in a shady spot for 10 to 15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal care.

II. Seed propagation

Orchid seeds are extremely fine, containing only one incompletely developed embryo, with very low germination capacity, and moreover the seed coat does not readily absorb water, so sowing by conventional methods will not germinate. Therefore orchid mycorrhizal fungi or an artificial culture medium is needed to supply nutrients before germination can occur. For sowing, it is best to select fruits that have not yet split open; after sterilizing the surface with 75% alcohol, remove the seeds, soak them in 10% sodium hypochlorite for 5 to 10 minutes, take them out and rinse 3 times with sterile water, then sow them in a culture bottle containing culture medium, then place in a dark culture room, maintaining the temperature at around 25°C; after they begin to sprout, move them into the light and they will form protocorms. From sowing to transplanting takes half a year to a year. Tissue culture has already been successful, and where conditions permit this method can be used for propagation.

How do orchids reproduce? Division and seed propagation methods for orchids

Orchids are a very common household potted plant. There are very many orchid varieties and their ornamental value is very high, so there are many flower lovers growing orchids. Growing orchids is not difficult, but orchid propagation requires some technique. Below is a summary of orchid propagation methods, which I hope will help flower lovers who grow orchids.

Orchids commonly use division, seed sowing and tissue culture propagation methods

This can be done in both spring and autumn, generally dividing once every three years. Any plant that grows vigorously with densely clustered pseudobulbs can be divided, and after division each clump must retain at least 5 pseudobulbs connected together. Before division, reduce watering so the potting soil is fairly dry. When repotting after division, first cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, then spread a layer of coarse gravel to occupy 1/5 to 1/4 of the pot's depth, then add coarse-grained soil and a small amount of fine soil, and finally plant in sandy loam rich in humus. The planting depth should be such that the pseudobulbs are just barely buried in the soil, leave a 2cm rim at the edge of the pot, spread Selaginella uncinata or fine gravel on top, and finally water thoroughly, place in a shady spot for 10 to 15 days, keep the soil moist, gradually reduce watering, and carry out normal care.

Orchid seeds are extremely fine, containing only one incompletely developed embryo, with very low germination capacity, and moreover the seed coat does not readily absorb water, so sowing by conventional methods will not germinate. Therefore orchid mycorrhizal fungi or an artificial culture medium is needed to supply nutrients before germination can occur. For sowing, it is best to select fruits that have not yet split open; after sterilizing the surface with 75% alcohol, remove the seeds, soak them in 10% sodium hypochlorite for 5 to 10 minutes, take them out and rinse 3 times with sterile water, then sow them in a culture bottle containing culture medium, then place in a dark culture room, maintaining the temperature at around 25°C; after they begin to sprout, move them into the light and they will form protocorms. From sowing to transplanting takes half a year to a year. Tissue culture has already been successful, and where conditions permit this method can be used for propagation.

It requires open surroundings, good ventilation, and proximity to water, with moist air and no coal smoke pollution. On the southwest side of the site, evergreen broadleaf trees can be planted, and the canopy density should be around 0.7, which can reduce afternoon sunlight exposure and regulate humidity and temperature.

Orchid seeds are extremely fine, containing only one incompletely developed embryo, with very low germination capacity, and moreover the seed coat does not readily absorb water, so sowing by conventional methods will not germinate. Therefore orchid mycorrhizal fungi or an artificial culture medium is needed to supply nutrients before germination can occur. For orchid sowing, it is best to select fruits that have not yet split open; after sterilizing the surface with 75% alcohol, then remove the seeds.

Once the pot is full, carry out repotting and division, generally once every 2—3 years, preferably from March to early April (autumn orchids), or from October to mid-November (summer orchids, spring orchids). When dividing, the potting soil should be somewhat dry. If it is wet mud, then handling is inconvenient and the roots are easily broken and damaged. After turning out the mother plant, gently remove the clumps of soil.

Flower pots with a small mouth, deep body and large bottom hole are best. Wild seedlings newly dug from the mountains must be planted in clay pots, and only after 2—3 years can they be moved into purple clay pots or porcelain pots. First cover the bottom hole with clam shells, palm fiber, etc., add coarse sand, coal cinders and charcoal in a steamed-bun shape, occupying about 1/3 of the capacity. Add culture soil about 3—5 cm thick on top. Generally no base fertilizer is added. Then place the orchid into the pot, arrange the roots evenly, add the mixed fine soil until it is 2—3 cm from the pot rim, lift the orchid plant slightly, with the height judged by the top of the pseudobulb being level with the soil surface, not too shallow or too deep. Press the potting soil lightly so the soil makes close contact with the roots, then press firmly with your fingers around the edge of the pot to avoid creating hollows when watering.

Rainwater or spring water is preferable; water containing salt and alkali should not be used. If tap water is used, it should be left standing for several days before use. Watering depends on the temperature conditions: in spring the amount of watering should be small, in summer it should be more; during the plum rain season, when orchids are putting out leaf buds, the potting soil should be slightly dry; after autumn when the weather turns cool, reduce the amount of watering accordingly, keeping it moist. In winter, indoors it should be dry, reducing the frequency of watering, and it is best to water at noon. Orchids can be exposed to light rain, but continuous rain or heavy rain easily causes rot of the heart and leaves, so attention must be paid to rain protection.

For growing orchids, cake fertilizer is suitable: mix 4 parts plant ash, 10 parts soybean cake and 10 parts bone meal evenly, place in a jar, add water several times until the soybean cake is soaked through, then cover and seal, let it decompose for one year, then make it into dry granules. When using, just place it on the pot surface. If whole manure is used, it should also be decomposed for one year, diluted with water and the residue filtered out before use. Generally start fertilizing from May, stop fertilizing at the Beginning of Autumn, and follow the principle of applying thin fertilizer frequently. Fertilizing should be done in the evening, and the next morning water once with clear water.

Except in early spring and winter, they should all be placed under an open-air shed. The shade shed requires good ventilation. When orchids have just been brought out in March to April, they can get more sun, and afterwards the shading time gradually increases. In winter orchids must be moved indoors for cold protection, with the room temperature kept at 1 to 2°C. In addition, after orchids are brought out in spring and before they are brought in in autumn, attention must be paid to frost protection.

Common propagation methods for white orchid (Michelia alba)